No matter how good I get, I always learn something new from every one of your videos. Your channel is a wonderful knowledge base. Keep up the good work!
I Use a thick 1.5in x 1.5in aluminum L-shaped angle bar 8ft long. Lowes/homedepot $25.00. I do 1 inch overlaps more comfortably with the pickets because there's plenty of room. This especially matters if your using the thicker 1in thick pickets. You could also write a measurements guide onto the aluminum if you feel you need to.
Just need a 10' 2x4. Cut 4 pieces off at 6" each. Screw 2 of them on. One side and the other at both ends of the remaining 8' 2x4. This will be your jig.
WOW...love the bump bar. Great tool. If it were just a plain picket, an aluminum angle could work for one time use but for multiple uses, this would be the tool to use!!!
This is cool. You mention how to roll the fence to terrain, and maybe rolling terrain isn’t always available for a demo, but your visuals are usually very helpful. Showing how to navigate those aspects would be quite informative. Especially with the straight topper. You guys are clearly experts in this field.
Save so much time over all with the newer tools available now, like the straightaway and marker cable and equilizer. Great video showing old school vs new school. We all have to keep adapting and changing to the better ways to be more efficient and making the processes easier and repeatable 👍
Bump board is fool proof IMO. I use q oiece of aluminum channel. I use my top rail as my sight. I always run it first. Then adjust the top rail to an ideal run and put up my bottom two rails and run pickets. You guys have been a tremendous help in my business.
Was looking for tips on installation and noticed you’re local to me. My work office is about 2 blocks from you. Good video. Unfortunately I can’t afford that tool so it will have to be a 2x4.
We try to put the straightest 2# as the top runner an then grab 2 extra 2#'s an make an 7 or L nail them together the just rest that on the top runner for a bump board, it goes post to post an keeps every section in good flow when we do shadow box we do have to measure an mark the bump board ourselves though
Yeah hi, I don't know if you know how our paling fences are built here in Australia. So I will elaborate, we prefer cypress posts with 3 rails as well. Plus we use a sacrificial board on the ground . We then use that "plinth" as the height setting to place our palings on which are nailguned on instantly . Our palings are two widths 6" and 3". The 6" goes on first with 2"gap between. Then we place the 3" paling over that gap so we get an overlap of 1/2" every 6" paling. Just a bit of trivia as I am watching you guys. Your channel is very informative and well presented. And yes, I prefer string lines as well Cheers from 🇦🇺
Bad thing about setting six inches up by the time you level them the tops will swing off of the measurements left and right on the shadow but I love the solid bump stop part about it. I've been doing carpentry for 25 years and miles of fencing I like the tool. Clay from mobile Alabama
The bump board is faster. I was near the end of my fencing days when I figured that out. Here is how I set up for a bump board: Establish grade and set the corner or end boards correctly. Run a string the whole way. Tack a board at every 8'. Use a couple of ring shanks driven just 1/2" or so into the tops of these boards to hold the string while you set up. Take the set-up nails out of the tops of the middle boards. Leave the string up, you can take it down afterwards and if you had a brain fart in the layout the string is still there. Make a jig, longer than 8' is better. I'd have to take the tacked boards off and move them at each location.
Bump board is a cool idea, shouldn’t say this but could have 2 adjustable steel brackets that sit in the top rail so you don’t need the post top good video guys Cheers from Aus
My bump board I been using for years has a 6" leg on one end that stratals the top 2x4. No need to setup a dummy picket every 8ft just slide the bump board down the rail. A bit faster that way
Me too. I string off at every post that changes elevation. I built one a month ago that literally went up and down like a rollercoaster. I'm wondering if this tool can do extreme grade changes
I just use a 9’ft long piece of steel. I like the bump board but it’s a little pricey. I don’t do many shadow box fences but if I did I would definitely buy the bump board! All my fences are on slopes. I just clamp my steel in place on the steep slopes. Super easy. Way better and faster than the string method. It’s very windy here so the string method sucks because the string blows around. I’m a professional fencer with 33yrs in the business. I’m a big fan of SWI!! They have great content. Keep it up guys!
Same height posts. Same distance put into ground. Same measured distance between posts for horizontals. Mark at top where the start picket goes. Mark that same distance on another picket at opposite end of that section. Make a jig that rides atop those pickets at both ends of each section. It will keep it all level even on a slope.@markHolmes81274
Nice video thats a excellent tool definitely increases time . Do y'all stock cedar in St. Augustine? The prebuilt wooden panels they sells these day are junk paper thin boards they don't last and are (pos) fence. You all are a awesome fence company you get what you pay for!
How well does this work on extreme angle grades? I work in Florida, they don't happen super often, but often enough. I had a b.o.b. a month ago that literally looked like a rollercoaster. How bout a follow up vid demonstrating extreme grade changes?
It works fine on extreme angles, but if it's steep enough you might have to add some grip tape so that it doesn't slide. When we get a chance we'll try to show it in use on grade changes--schedule's pretty full at the moment.
I just use a 9’ft long piece of steel. I like the bump board but it’s a little pricey. I don’t do many shadow box fences but if I did I would definitely buy the bump board! All my fences are on slopes. I just clamp my steel in place on the steep slopes. Super easy. Way better and faster than the string method. It’s very windy here so the string method sucks because the string blows around. I’m a professional fencer with 33yrs in the business. I’m a big fan of SWI!! They have great content. Keep it up guys!
I want to know where you got fence boards that are perfectly straight. I can deal with those that curve front to back but the side to side is an issue and creates gaps. Since wood shrinks it becomes worse and now becomes a bigger gap for dogs to try and enlarge it as a neighbor’s dog has done, breaking boards.
That's assuming that your posts and rails have been set at EXACTLY the same height... If you are digging the holes and hand and setting the posts in concrete (like you might do with a steel picket fence), that is not guaranteed... If there is even a slight variation, it is going to be noticeable... What I do is run a very tight line between the end point, adjusting slightly if I notice *any* sag in the line and putting the temporary pickets at each post, starting in the middle of the run and then halving each section until all the posts have temporary pickets. I then used a 10 ft piece of 3" angle iron between the temporary pickets as (what you are calling) a "bump board" and use C-clamps to fasten the angle iron to the temporary pickets... The angle iron has a spacer on the inside edge at both ends so that the curve in the angle does not interfere with getting the exact same alignment each time... By attaching the ends with C-clamps, you can "bump" the boards quite forcefully and not be concerned with it slightly lifting over time...
We'll try to roll our post placement so the fence flows--following the contour of the land but smoothing it out a little. We're almost never going to hump a fence in-between posts. Trim the bottom of the pickets if you need to, but you want nice lines at the top.
Would it work going from post to post? We typically run our picket fences in-line with the posts. I wonder if the board would sit study on top of a square post
Make picket jig width the same as your picket exposure so all it has to do is sit in your top rail to set line. Great for grade changes-as your rails go so does your jig. I built my jig with a pair of tabs so it supports itself on the top rail. Eliminates having to put up and take down gauge pickets at ends. A 1x6 gives you a 5 1/2" exposure but any size can be used and I cap it with an aluminum j channel as the guide slot. Cheap, light, fast.
Yes, this is an air tool. We use ring shank nails, but the right screw will also work. Screws even hold tighter. th-cam.com/video/QkFV0pcd4gM/w-d-xo.html
With its simplicity but non-mechanical, multi-math, multi-notch, multi-use for building, it reminds me of something the Romans or Egyptians would have used that no one today can figure out.
For those asking how this bump board works on steep slopes. Just clamp the bump board in place on the slopes. Just try it out and you will never use string again
Do this long enough you can do it all by feel. Look at the fence once then just start nailing away. Next thing you know the grade, reveal and spacing is all perfect. No special tool or calculations. Kinda like the pinball wizard of fence 🤙🏼
Ok. I'm 5 minutes in. I don't know who is gonna win. But two things. 1. The bump bar is neat and all, but I can get 10' of string in my pocket. Not gonna happen with the bar. 2. Every new channel I come across ends up being great for like 3 weeks and then just starts to be annoying. You guys haven't been like that. Big ups. Ok three things. 3. Didn't get that bar on the top of the picket there, champ. It's clearly sitting on the dog ear.
A pro DOESN'T need a cheat board. That is for amateurs that don't have the skills to do things without assistance for an over prices tool to keep it lined up. By the way why is he crying about letting him setup the board as if HE is the one cheating. The guy complaining also already had the cheat board (dummy picket, the board on left that he is resting the bump tool on) already made. So why are you crying and making a huge deal about it? Also guy with stringline is setting up his stringline wrong. You never set your stringline on top of the picket. You make an L-Bracket for one end and make a cheat board (dummy picket) for the other end. The L-Bracket is made of 2x4. The longside gets screwed through the picket. The string gets gets secured to the top of bracket with a screw. String goes under and lined up at top, front edge of picket. Same on the cheat board (dummy picket) placed on the far end. Your line is never on top of the boards. You just bring the top front edge of the picket to the line. Line never gets bumped or pushed up. And it is much easier to see the line when it is up front. And you are not spending any extra cost on a tool that take up so much space. Pros don't needs this junk. That junk is for rookies that can't keep a straight line. Not to mention that you can do 3 or four sections, using string. No need to be moving that thing over and over.
What a horrible way to build a fence. Cedar should never come in contact with the ground, you need a treated toe board, to keep the pickets 2 to 3 inches off the ground
No matter how good I get, I always learn something new from every one of your videos. Your channel is a wonderful knowledge base. Keep up the good work!
I Use a thick 1.5in x 1.5in aluminum L-shaped angle bar 8ft long. Lowes/homedepot $25.00. I do 1 inch overlaps more comfortably with the pickets because there's plenty of room. This especially matters if your using the thicker 1in thick pickets. You could also write a measurements guide onto the aluminum if you feel you need to.
@@JoeL-nd1yl thanks
Just need a 10' 2x4. Cut 4 pieces off at 6" each. Screw 2 of them on. One side and the other at both ends of the remaining 8' 2x4. This will be your jig.
WOW...love the bump bar. Great tool. If it were just a plain picket, an aluminum angle could work for one time use but for multiple uses, this would be the tool to use!!!
This is cool. You mention how to roll the fence to terrain, and maybe rolling terrain isn’t always available for a demo, but your visuals are usually very helpful. Showing how to navigate those aspects would be quite informative. Especially with the straight topper. You guys are clearly experts in this field.
Save so much time over all with the newer tools available now, like the straightaway and marker cable and equilizer. Great video showing old school vs new school. We all have to keep adapting and changing to the better ways to be more efficient and making the processes easier and repeatable 👍
Bump board is fool proof IMO. I use q oiece of aluminum channel. I use my top rail as my sight. I always run it first. Then adjust the top rail to an ideal run and put up my bottom two rails and run pickets. You guys have been a tremendous help in my business.
seems like you have a perfect leveled ground base
Do a video on rolling/ blending pickets up and down steep grades please
Need to see how the bump bar does on a sloped terrain.
*I’ve Never seen that Fence Tool Before Very Cool!!!*
Was looking for tips on installation and noticed you’re local to me. My work office is about 2 blocks from you. Good video. Unfortunately I can’t afford that tool so it will have to be a 2x4.
The 2x4 will still get it done. 👍🏻
a standard vinyl rail works really well for a makeshift bump board if you dont need the measurements
Swi didn't like your comment! I do! Thank you. Great video
The metal posts instead of 4x4s is a great idea.
Outstanding video, thank you very much. You guys are outstanding craftsmen.. Wade Out.
We try to put the straightest 2# as the top runner an then grab 2 extra 2#'s an make an 7 or L nail them together the just rest that on the top runner for a bump board, it goes post to post an keeps every section in good flow when we do shadow box we do have to measure an mark the bump board ourselves though
Awesome video as usual guys!
Awesome!!! Thanks for the info
You bet!
Great tool and great advice. Thanks Guys
You bet!
We use a straight 2x4 and c clamps to do the same thing
Yeah hi, I don't know if you know how our paling fences are built here in Australia. So I will elaborate, we prefer cypress posts with 3 rails as well. Plus we use a sacrificial board on the ground . We then use that "plinth" as the height setting to place our palings on which are nailguned on instantly . Our palings are two widths 6" and 3". The 6" goes on first with 2"gap between. Then we place the 3" paling over that gap so we get an overlap of 1/2" every 6" paling. Just a bit of trivia as I am watching you guys. Your channel is very informative and well presented. And yes, I prefer string lines as well Cheers from 🇦🇺
Cheers!
id like to give em both a good dang day !
Thanks!
Bad thing about setting six inches up by the time you level them the tops will swing off of the measurements left and right on the shadow but I love the solid bump stop part about it. I've been doing carpentry for 25 years and miles of fencing I like the tool. Clay from mobile Alabama
The bump board is faster. I was near the end of my fencing days when I figured that out.
Here is how I set up for a bump board: Establish grade and set the corner or end boards correctly. Run a string the whole way. Tack a board at every 8'. Use a couple of ring shanks driven just 1/2" or so into the tops of these boards to hold the string while you set up. Take the set-up nails out of the tops of the middle boards. Leave the string up, you can take it down afterwards and if you had a brain fart in the layout the string is still there. Make a jig, longer than 8' is better. I'd have to take the tacked boards off and move them at each location.
Great video my friend…take the guy from San Antonio to school…very nice!
Bump board is a cool idea, shouldn’t say this but could have 2 adjustable steel brackets that sit in the top rail so you don’t need the post top good video guys
Cheers from Aus
The adjustable steel bracket to the top of the rail seems a good idea, but it is not. The rails aren't planed.
Great idea
😂😂😂He's so ready to show off that bump board.
Wasn't he though? 😄
My bump board I been using for years has a 6" leg on one end that stratals the top 2x4. No need to setup a dummy picket every 8ft just slide the bump board down the rail. A bit faster that way
I wish we can see a video with not even ground, to being a hater just to know how to solve the problems.
Me too. I string off at every post that changes elevation. I built one a month ago that literally went up and down like a rollercoaster. I'm wondering if this tool can do extreme grade changes
I just use a 9’ft long piece of steel. I like the bump board but it’s a little pricey. I don’t do many shadow box fences but if I did I would definitely buy the bump board! All my fences are on slopes. I just clamp my steel in place on the steep slopes. Super easy. Way better and faster than the string method. It’s very windy here so the string method sucks because the string blows around.
I’m a professional fencer with 33yrs in the business. I’m a big fan of SWI!! They have great content. Keep it up guys!
I've been building fence 48 years and as long as I set your picket hight.rite and use string line it dont matter the grade it follows suit
Same height posts. Same distance put into ground. Same measured distance between posts for horizontals. Mark at top where the start picket goes. Mark that same distance on another picket at opposite end of that section. Make a jig that rides atop those pickets at both ends of each section. It will keep it all level even on a slope.@markHolmes81274
Nice video thats a excellent tool definitely increases time . Do y'all stock cedar in St. Augustine? The prebuilt wooden panels they sells these day are junk paper thin boards they don't last and are (pos) fence. You all are a awesome fence company you get what you pay for!
Thanks! We do stock cedar in St. Augustine. 👍🏻
How well does this work on extreme angle grades? I work in Florida, they don't happen super often, but often enough. I had a b.o.b. a month ago that literally looked like a rollercoaster. How bout a follow up vid demonstrating extreme grade changes?
It works fine on extreme angles, but if it's steep enough you might have to add some grip tape so that it doesn't slide.
When we get a chance we'll try to show it in use on grade changes--schedule's pretty full at the moment.
I just use a 9’ft long piece of steel. I like the bump board but it’s a little pricey. I don’t do many shadow box fences but if I did I would definitely buy the bump board! All my fences are on slopes. I just clamp my steel in place on the steep slopes. Super easy. Way better and faster than the string method. It’s very windy here so the string method sucks because the string blows around.
I’m a professional fencer with 33yrs in the business. I’m a big fan of SWI!! They have great content. Keep it up guys!
I want to know where you got fence boards that are perfectly straight. I can deal with those that curve front to back but the side to side is an issue and creates gaps. Since wood shrinks it becomes worse and now becomes a bigger gap for dogs to try and enlarge it as a neighbor’s dog has done, breaking boards.
That's assuming that your posts and rails have been set at EXACTLY the same height... If you are digging the holes and hand and setting the posts in concrete (like you might do with a steel picket fence), that is not guaranteed... If there is even a slight variation, it is going to be noticeable... What I do is run a very tight line between the end point, adjusting slightly if I notice *any* sag in the line and putting the temporary pickets at each post, starting in the middle of the run and then halving each section until all the posts have temporary pickets. I then used a 10 ft piece of 3" angle iron between the temporary pickets as (what you are calling) a "bump board" and use C-clamps to fasten the angle iron to the temporary pickets... The angle iron has a spacer on the inside edge at both ends so that the curve in the angle does not interfere with getting the exact same alignment each time... By attaching the ends with C-clamps, you can "bump" the boards quite forcefully and not be concerned with it slightly lifting over time...
You just made an long commercial to sell that board 😅
awesome tool if youre working on flat ground, but i guess it wont work if theres humps between posts
We'll try to roll our post placement so the fence flows--following the contour of the land but smoothing it out a little. We're almost never going to hump a fence in-between posts. Trim the bottom of the pickets if you need to, but you want nice lines at the top.
The bump board's a great tool, but wow that's a lot of money for a bent piece of metal with a sticker on it....
@Shawn King, please send Mark Olson a buddy picket. Great job on the video. Mark and Dan are really cool, so is th other brother too.
Ooooh... Sexy tool! I am gonna have to get me one when I get to working on my fence.
Would it work going from post to post? We typically run our picket fences in-line with the posts. I wonder if the board would sit study on top of a square post
What kind of nail gun is that? New to the game and looking to purchase a solid gun
bit.ly/swimagnum
At grade change string doesnt need to be removed. Put pickets at each grade change and run string entire length "bending" at each grade change.
The bump board is an awesome tool, but at over $300 not for the DIYer….
The DIY'er should be able to bang one out for under $20.
Yeah dude just buy a piece of angle iron
Make picket jig width the same as your picket exposure so all it has to do is sit in your top rail to set line. Great for grade changes-as your rails go so does your jig. I built my jig with a pair of tabs so it supports itself on the top rail. Eliminates having to put up and take down gauge pickets at ends. A 1x6 gives you a 5 1/2" exposure but any size can be used and I cap it with an aluminum j channel as the guide slot. Cheap, light, fast.
Awesome video! Is that an air compressor tool? Also, what kind of nails are you using? Old woman here trying to fix her FL fence! Thank you!
Yes, this is an air tool. We use ring shank nails, but the right screw will also work. Screws even hold tighter. th-cam.com/video/QkFV0pcd4gM/w-d-xo.html
Just put a 2x4 on the ground and stand your pickets on it. It'll foll
great video .what holds the bump bar from sliding when on a grade? could a small C clamp work?
Yep. Grip tape or a C clamp.
C Strut Bump Bar?
Where can I get this part please if anyone knows
bit.ly/Picket_topper
Why do use nails instead of screws? I live in a windy area and use screws.
We actually have a video about this coming out in the near future. The nails we use grip just fine and are 1,000x faster to install than screws.
what size nail do you use? what size nail gun? thanks@@SWiFence
Shewwweee $700 bucks to get one delivered to Alaska...bummer. Enjoyed the video though fellas!
what are the posts?
Steel fence posts. th-cam.com/video/a1BwCOX0XhM/w-d-xo.html
@@SWiFence thanks
With its simplicity but non-mechanical, multi-math, multi-notch, multi-use for building, it reminds me of something the Romans or Egyptians would have used that no one today can figure out.
so, you are located in Wyoming? why cant you display this at the beginning of the video so that we know if you are in our reach?
Correct, we are in Wyoming, but this video is intended for folks everywhere who are considering how to best build their fence. 👍🏻
For those asking how this bump board works on steep slopes. Just clamp the bump board in place on the slopes. Just try it out and you will never use string again
Are there jigs like this for horizontal fences?
Onde puedo conprar esa piesa por favor si alguien puede desir
bit.ly/Picket_topper
how much is it
Picket Topper Bump Board: bit.ly/Picket_topper
2:15 not level. In a vertical is to plumb the boards, as to level is in a horizontal.
Yes, very true.
Do this long enough you can do it all by feel. Look at the fence once then just start nailing away. Next thing you know the grade, reveal and spacing is all perfect. No special tool or calculations. Kinda like the pinball wizard of fence 🤙🏼
Ok. I'm 5 minutes in. I don't know who is gonna win. But two things.
1. The bump bar is neat and all, but I can get 10' of string in my pocket. Not gonna happen with the bar.
2. Every new channel I come across ends up being great for like 3 weeks and then just starts to be annoying. You guys haven't been like that. Big ups.
Ok three things.
3. Didn't get that bar on the top of the picket there, champ. It's clearly sitting on the dog ear.
Seems to me a lot of the problems will be avoided if you stopped using metal posts and went back to 4 x 4 or 6 x 6 wood
Metal posts are way more durable
The layout challenges and math get easier with a 4x4? How so?
😮 😮🎉😮 😊😊😊😊😊😢😮
A pro DOESN'T need a cheat board. That is for amateurs that don't have the skills to do things without assistance for an over prices tool to keep it lined up.
By the way why is he crying about letting him setup the board as if HE is the one cheating. The guy complaining also already had the cheat board (dummy picket, the board on left that he is resting the bump tool on) already made. So why are you crying and making a huge deal about it?
Also guy with stringline is setting up his stringline wrong. You never set your stringline on top of the picket. You make an L-Bracket for one end and make a cheat board (dummy picket) for the other end. The L-Bracket is made of 2x4. The longside gets screwed through the picket. The string gets gets secured to the top of bracket with a screw. String goes under and lined up at top, front edge of picket. Same on the cheat board (dummy picket) placed on the far end. Your line is never on top of the boards. You just bring the top front edge of the picket to the line. Line never gets bumped or pushed up. And it is much easier to see the line when it is up front.
And you are not spending any extra cost on a tool that take up so much space.
Pros don't needs this junk. That junk is for rookies that can't keep a straight line. Not to mention that you can do 3 or four sections, using string. No need to be moving that thing over and over.
String works really well, you just have to pay attention. Do you do drug testing? ;^)
Wow yeah, I would definitely spend 325 DOLLARS on this piece of metal just to save a few minutes. NOT.
I'm going to make the rash assumption you don't do this every day.
Yeah, probably not worth it for you.
What a horrible way to build a fence. Cedar should never come in contact with the ground, you need a treated toe board, to keep the pickets 2 to 3 inches off the ground
Agreed that cedar should not be touching the ground. 👍🏻 Touching the grass and touching the ground are two different things.