Good point, that’s why is a good idea to disassemble the engine completely. Some people look for the easy way out. The point is, take your time and do it right. And another I noticed on those engines is that where the key way on the points when it’s facing the valve cover it on top dead center.
I agree. Taking engine blocks down to the bare block is one of my favorite parts of small engine repair because before I had sonic cleaners I'd tear down the cases and put them in a dishwasher
Wish I seen this video 3 weeks ago 😬 I had both #1 and #2 happen, I caught the cam/crank dots miss aligned, with the side cover off when deleting the governor and oil sensor I must have bumped the cam. I remembered after sealing up the engine that they weren't aligned, so had to take cover back off and align them, went to start engine and noticed something wasn't right so I removed the valve cover and seen the push rod for intake wasn't under the rocker arm. 🤦♂️no damage was done thankfully and engine fired right up and runs great!
Appreciate it my guy thank you, I just put upgraded parts on my axis m200 and removed da governor wheel, but had to go back in clean up da oil casing i seen the rods fall out but now i know when I went to pull da starter why it was locked, lol good looks stay bless
Lol i just rebuilt my predator ghost. It was a complete removal of parts, spec and reinstall with three new parts. Went with the Arc flywheel , rod and a nibbi 24 mm carb. I had a feeling when i was setting the gap on the coil to flywheel that it wasnt enough gap for a strong spark. I went over the 32thou and posibly around 40ish thou lol but i was getting a briliant spark off of this LG spark plug ? My issue was that the engine wasnt firing, i had fuel l, spark, and what seemed like nasty good compression. I set the valve lash as per almost every video ive seen or articles online. I used my feelers gauges and i had a feeling the valves were opening sooner letting some of that compression out. I decided to lash my valves the same way i set in all my older SBC. That start up was amazing =)
Buddy, this is a great great information video. You are very good you should be a teacher or small engines. I took small engine repair when I was in junior high back in the 70s. Great video.
JW I have a 212 predator… been running fine. I had to replace head gasket and the push rod fell , just like you said in the video. I put everything back, just like you showed in the video… my issue is that now I have no power at all. The motor sounds fine, but when I press the gas… I can’t go…. It revs up like it’s acknowledge that I am giving it gas… but it has no power. I can’t go. Any suggestions?
If it sounds fine and revs but won’t move I’d guess it’s was an issue other than the engine like a clutch/converter problem. I’d go over the carb too and make sure the gaskets and linkages are right.
@@jwsbackyard6413 if I am on flat concrete and I push it to get going… then it will slowly build up speed. And drive ok until I slow down. Then it starts over again and I have to push it to get going again. It almost feels like the clutch doesn’t have a locking key in it…but the key is built into the clutch. I have my clutch turned around , like in your video. I don’t have any spacer or washer, because the sprocket wouldn’t line up…. Is it possible that the key of the clutch doesn’t go that far down the shaft, and it’s not catching? Thanks
@@commoncentsideas1215 from my experience if the key isn’t In it wouldn’t move at all. You could easily check my pulling the clutch and looking for wear marks on the output shaft. Sounds like you could just have a slipping clutch which could be from a bad clutch, too light clutch shoes, too heavy of a clutch springs or to low of a gear ratio.
@Common Cents Ideas are you using a straight chain clutch or have a torque converter with a belt? I tried switching to straight chain just for shits and giggles and found I lost all power on take off. Torque converter is the way to go
So get this. I ziptied my governor spring. Road fine for some sweet drifts then started givin up. After it died it would only run on choke so i removed the ziptie. Not my motor wont start at all
Sounds like a fuel issue. Check spark first. If you have spark spray some carb cleaner/starter fluid in it and see if it starts. If it starts there’s something up with the fuel system. I’d also check the linkages for the throttle and make sure the butterfly is actually opening. The spring/throttle setup on the stock carb is pretty sensitive when it comes yo changing the spring tensions. If all that is fine I’d open up the engine and make sure there isn’t something internal affecting things especially the governor.
OMFG!! You sir are my HERO!!!!!!!!! I could not figure this out for the damn life of me!!!!!!! Thank you so much will like and subscribe. I wish I could do it 300 times!!!
The only place it could be is down in the engine. You’re gona have to take the side cover off to find it unless you get lucky and it comes out through the oil drain plug.
JW have a predator 212…engine will start ill move switch to run but went I hop in to go and press gas after a few seconds engines dies…I have replaced the carburetor already. Then after it turns off it wont turn back on, when J try again the day after turns on and then dies again with gas. What could it be?
Still sounds like a fuel issue. I’d make sure the tank isn’t clogged. They are prone to rust inside without you knowing. Are you running a fuel filter? If so they are know to clog even though they look fine visually. Next time it does it try some carb cleaner or starter fluid and see if it will fire. If it does it’s a fuel issue.
Remove the arm and put a bolt in place of it. Tap the hole for the arm so the bolt will thread in. You use the bolt to hold the factory throttle linkages so everything works the same. The throttle arm just has to be able to move freely on the bolt.
@@jwsbackyard6413I have the same issue I have no clue what’s wrong I pull it sounds fine and after a few pulls it backfires but when I smell the carb cover where the filter is doesn’t smell like nothing and I pulled my spark plug and it isn’t even getting wet
@@ayodevin4017 I would make sure the fuel cut off on the carb hasn’t been turned off by accident. Other wise I would unscrew the bolt on the bottom of the carb and see if you have a steady fuel flow. If there is no fuel you know the issue is pre bowl. If you do have fuel but it’s not making its way into the intake then something may be clogged in the carb.
@@jwsbackyard6413 I tried everything not sure what else to do gas is going through carb it just isn’t firing cam is aligned with crank, do you think it’s because the way I have my throttle set up because I’m using a stock carb
@@ayodevin4017 how is your throttle set up? You can also do some easy diagnosing by spraying some brake cleaner in the carb and trying to start it, if it starts with an external fuel source like the brake cleaner you know it’s a fuel/carb issue. Or you can pull the spark plug and check for spark.
I removed my gov and now it won’t turn on it was turning on before removed I checked push rods and all other stuff looks all fine spark plug is good just won’t turn on now
Hmm, the first place the start is to check for spark and fuel. Spray some carb cleaner or starter fluid in it and see if it tries to start. If it starts then it’s a fuel issue. If it doesn’t try to start pull the spark plug out, attach it to the coil and ground it on the engine while to pull the pull start to check for spark. It could be many things but check fuel and spark first can help narrow it down. I’d check all of the wiring and grounds just to make sure something didn’t get disconnected.
@JW’s Backyard what i meant is silicone is high temp compared to a engine , maybe not the exaust like you said use copper . but im adhd asf so my words come out alphabet soup
@@travistownsend3254 naw I realized I read the original comment wrong anyways. But yeah I get you. The ultra black and grey all work fine on engines; they have oil resistance and can hold up to the heat.
If it’s new it will need oil and fuel first. Then make sure the black fuel arm is turned on. Then turn the red on off switch to on. Activate the gray choke arm and pull the pull start handle.
Haha check to make sure the plug is tight and the fuel switch on the carb is turned on and the one off switch is one. If those are good I wouldn’t take it apart I would just take it back and get a replacement. If you can’t take it back you can always check for spark by removing the plug and grounding it on the engine while trying to start it to see if you have spark. If you have spark try some brake cleaner or ether in the intake. If it starts with an external fuel source you’ll know it’s a fuel/carb issue. If all that is fine you can always check under the valve cover like described in the video and check valve lash.
Bro ur actually a life saver no other videos shows how to fix
Dude, this video helped so much. I thought I f up my whole engine bro. Man is a literal God.
Good point, that’s why is a good idea to disassemble the engine completely. Some people look for the easy way out. The point is, take your time and do it right. And another I noticed on those engines is that where the key way on the points when it’s facing the valve cover it on top dead center.
I agree. Taking engine blocks down to the bare block is one of my favorite parts of small engine repair because before I had sonic cleaners I'd tear down the cases and put them in a dishwasher
Excellent explanation of fixing the timing. Thought me a ton in 5 min.
Thank you so much!! Was so disappointed when my 224 wouldn't turn over this was the problem!
Wish I seen this video 3 weeks ago 😬 I had both #1 and #2 happen, I caught the cam/crank dots miss aligned, with the side cover off when deleting the governor and oil sensor I must have bumped the cam.
I remembered after sealing up the engine that they weren't aligned, so had to take cover back off and align them, went to start engine and noticed something wasn't right so I removed the valve cover and seen the push rod for intake wasn't under the rocker arm. 🤦♂️no damage was done thankfully and engine fired right up and runs great!
i appeiciate your honesty... now i dont feel so bad
Wouldn't have thought to check the pushrods, thanks for this!!
Appreciate it my guy thank you, I just put upgraded parts on my axis m200 and removed da governor wheel, but had to go back in clean up da oil casing i seen the rods fall out but now i know when I went to pull da starter why it was locked, lol good looks stay bless
Thanks this is just what I was looking for
Just removed governor on Colemanb200r engine is not turning over. This is very helpful thank you very much 🎉🤘
All praises to this video!!! 🎉
You hit it right on the head thank you 🙏🏽
Lol i just rebuilt my predator ghost. It was a complete removal of parts, spec and reinstall with three new parts.
Went with the Arc flywheel , rod and a nibbi 24 mm carb.
I had a feeling when i was setting the gap on the coil to flywheel that it wasnt enough gap for a strong spark.
I went over the 32thou and posibly around 40ish thou lol but i was getting a briliant spark off of this LG spark plug ?
My issue was that the engine wasnt firing, i had fuel l, spark, and what seemed like nasty good compression.
I set the valve lash as per almost every video ive seen or articles online. I used my feelers gauges and i had a feeling the valves were opening sooner letting some of that compression out.
I decided to lash my valves the same way i set in all my older SBC.
That start up was amazing =)
very helpful, thank you
and situations like these is why my governor was bypassed without entering the engine
thank u so much bruh
Buddy, this is a great great information video. You are very good you should be a teacher or small engines. I took small engine repair when I was in junior high back in the 70s. Great video.
THANK YOUU😂😂!!!!!
You saved me
JW
I have a 212 predator… been running fine. I had to replace head gasket and the push rod fell , just like you said in the video. I put everything back, just like you showed in the video… my issue is that now I have no power at all. The motor sounds fine, but when I press the gas… I can’t go…. It revs up like it’s acknowledge that I am giving it gas… but it has no power. I can’t go. Any suggestions?
If it sounds fine and revs but won’t move I’d guess it’s was an issue other than the engine like a clutch/converter problem. I’d go over the carb too and make sure the gaskets and linkages are right.
@@jwsbackyard6413 if I am on flat concrete and I push it to get going… then it will slowly build up speed. And drive ok until I slow down. Then it starts over again and I have to push it to get going again. It almost feels like the clutch doesn’t have a locking key in it…but the key is built into the clutch. I have my clutch turned around , like in your video. I don’t have any spacer or washer, because the sprocket wouldn’t line up…. Is it possible that the key of the clutch doesn’t go that far down the shaft, and it’s not catching?
Thanks
@@commoncentsideas1215 from my experience if the key isn’t In it wouldn’t move at all. You could easily check my pulling the clutch and looking for wear marks on the output shaft. Sounds like you could just have a slipping clutch which could be from a bad clutch, too light clutch shoes, too heavy of a clutch springs or to low of a gear ratio.
@Common Cents Ideas are you using a straight chain clutch or have a torque converter with a belt? I tried switching to straight chain just for shits and giggles and found I lost all power on take off. Torque converter is the way to go
So get this. I ziptied my governor spring. Road fine for some sweet drifts then started givin up. After it died it would only run on choke so i removed the ziptie. Not my motor wont start at all
Sounds like a fuel issue. Check spark first. If you have spark spray some carb cleaner/starter fluid in it and see if it starts. If it starts there’s something up with the fuel system. I’d also check the linkages for the throttle and make sure the butterfly is actually opening. The spring/throttle setup on the stock carb is pretty sensitive when it comes yo changing the spring tensions. If all that is fine I’d open up the engine and make sure there isn’t something internal affecting things especially the governor.
It still won’t start
Will the engine perform differently if you DO NOT remove the governor internally?
It’s won’t perform differently but you run a risk of governor breaking apart at the higher rpm’s and damaging the engine
2-12
Just put a stage 2 head an hot rod cam on 212 with billet flywheel an can't get it to start any ideas checked timing an is lined up correctly
With a new flywheel I’d make sure you check spark if you’ve went through the stuff in the video.
OMFG!! You sir are my HERO!!!!!!!!! I could not figure this out for the damn life of me!!!!!!! Thank you so much will like and subscribe. I wish I could do it 300 times!!!
I have a 212 Beni but you can’t turn the arms to get the rods in place. What is the solution to this?
Try taking out the spark plug to relieve the compression. That should allow you to turn the engine over easily.
What would you do if one of those lash caps is no longer on the valve spring
I took the valve cover off and one was missing and not in the head anymore. Easy way to find it? 😅
The only place it could be is down in the engine. You’re gona have to take the side cover off to find it unless you get lucky and it comes out through the oil drain plug.
@@jwsbackyard6413I got that problem all solved put it all back together and every couple pulls it’ll shoot a flame but won’t start.
I would make sure the cam/crank timing is correct. I’d check valve lash too
JW have a predator 212…engine will start ill move switch to run but went I hop in to go and press gas after a few seconds engines dies…I have replaced the carburetor already. Then after it turns off it wont turn back on, when J try again the day after turns on and then dies again with gas. What could it be?
Still sounds like a fuel issue. I’d make sure the tank isn’t clogged. They are prone to rust inside without you knowing. Are you running a fuel filter? If so they are know to clog even though they look fine visually. Next time it does it try some carb cleaner or starter fluid and see if it will fire. If it does it’s a fuel issue.
I took out the governor ant i left the governor arm hanging and I think it’s making contact with the engine what can I do?
Remove the arm and put a bolt in place of it. Tap the hole for the arm so the bolt will thread in. You use the bolt to hold the factory throttle linkages so everything works the same. The throttle arm just has to be able to move freely on the bolt.
recently took the govener off and everything is good it’s just that not my carb isn’t getting any gas do you know what could cause that?
Do you mean no fuel is getting to the carb or do you mean that the throttle isn’t working?
@@jwsbackyard6413I have the same issue I have no clue what’s wrong I pull it sounds fine and after a few pulls it backfires but when I smell the carb cover where the filter is doesn’t smell like nothing and I pulled my spark plug and it isn’t even getting wet
@@ayodevin4017 I would make sure the fuel cut off on the carb hasn’t been turned off by accident. Other wise I would unscrew the bolt on the bottom of the carb and see if you have a steady fuel flow. If there is no fuel you know the issue is pre bowl. If you do have fuel but it’s not making its way into the intake then something may be clogged in the carb.
@@jwsbackyard6413 I tried everything not sure what else to do gas is going through carb it just isn’t firing cam is aligned with crank, do you think it’s because the way I have my throttle set up because I’m using a stock carb
@@ayodevin4017 how is your throttle set up? You can also do some easy diagnosing by spraying some brake cleaner in the carb and trying to start it, if it starts with an external fuel source like the brake cleaner you know it’s a fuel/carb issue. Or you can pull the spark plug and check for spark.
I am having insane compression when i go to pull start it. But it runs just fine. Could you tell me what the cause of that could be?
There is a plastic decompression switch on the cam that may malfunctioning. I’d check that first.
@JW’s Backyard Okay
I would check valve lash to
I removed my gov and now it won’t turn on it was turning on before removed I checked push rods and all other stuff looks all fine spark plug is good just won’t turn on now
Hmm, the first place the start is to check for spark and fuel. Spray some carb cleaner or starter fluid in it and see if it tries to start. If it starts then it’s a fuel issue. If it doesn’t try to start pull the spark plug out, attach it to the coil and ground it on the engine while to pull the pull start to check for spark. It could be many things but check fuel and spark first can help narrow it down. I’d check all of the wiring and grounds just to make sure something didn’t get disconnected.
@@jwsbackyard6413 okay thank you I’ll try it out and let you jnow
eew red rtv . you know even regular silicone like for a bathtub is high temp , just not oil resistant
Not sure where you are getting red rtv from but I always use ultra black for the all the gaskets unless it’s the exhaust where I use orange/copper.
@JW’s Backyard just messing . i use what i got. but really its annoying that the only high high temp rtv is super ugly red .
@JW’s Backyard what i meant is silicone is high temp compared to a engine , maybe not the exaust like you said use copper . but im adhd asf so my words come out alphabet soup
@@travistownsend3254 naw I realized I read the original comment wrong anyways. But yeah I get you. The ultra black and grey all work fine on engines; they have oil resistance and can hold up to the heat.
How to start a predator engine 212 CC
If it’s new it will need oil and fuel first. Then make sure the black fuel arm is turned on. Then turn the red on off switch to on. Activate the gray choke arm and pull the pull start handle.
Youall sounds just like a Tony Galindo😅
What if mine won't start right out of the box lol
Haha check to make sure the plug is tight and the fuel switch on the carb is turned on and the one off switch is one. If those are good I wouldn’t take it apart I would just take it back and get a replacement. If you can’t take it back you can always check for spark by removing the plug and grounding it on the engine while trying to start it to see if you have spark. If you have spark try some brake cleaner or ether in the intake. If it starts with an external fuel source you’ll know it’s a fuel/carb issue. If all that is fine you can always check under the valve cover like described in the video and check valve lash.
that is a non hemi btw
That’s correct. I mentioned it a few times in the video and showed a hemi head for comparison.