Here are some of the parts and tools I used for this job: Crank holding tool: amzn.to/2SwFMP6 Cam Holding tool (2 required): amzn.to/2SB0BZV Cam follower removal tool: amzn.to/2XVPe4F DOUBLE CHECK THE FITMENT ON THE PARTS! There are too many different timing sets for me to list all of them. If your vehicle has plastic tensioners I would suggest upgrading to the iron version. They have proven to be more durable. Bolt Part#: W709818 S437 Parts: Ford Racing Timing Set: amzn.to/2SwwuTB Cloyes (plastic guides, iron tensioners): amzn.to/2Y3paji Cloyes (metal guides, iron tensioners): amzn.to/2YkkiKT
Repair Geek sorry for asking a lot of questions but this is my first time doing this and I just want to make sure I’m doing it correctly so I don’t damage the engine
Hey Geek i know I can use the iron tensioner's on a 2004 crown Victoria @ list I think I can.. does the cloyes kit come with the metal gasket for the tensioner's do I need to use them or can I use the tensioner's on the crown Victoria the same way you used it on your mustang with out the plate/metal gasket? Or are the metal gasket only used in other applications? Also my car came from factory with the plastic tensioner's
Well done. The tensioners have a fail safe feature that physically limits the amount of non tension so as to avoid piston to valve issues with momentary lack of oil pressure.
Removing all 8 spark plugs will aid in the reduction of forces, including residual combustion chamber compressed gasses pressing down on the piston, and this can held reduce the hazard of bending valves. I'm glad you used metal tensioners as the plastic ones get weak and the spring gets weak and after 6-7 years of heat cycles and allow for super loose chains on start up and the loose chain on the driver's side will eventually bust the left side chain guide. The metal tensioners have that little ratcheting arm that presses up and keep the chains tight by keeping the tensioner arm pushed up tight in the absence of oil pressure. Great video.
Very Helpful......I know garages complain too...but for a average joe like myself i would have to take a solid 4 days off to do this outside no garage......i get nervous im gonna screw it up so i go slow to make sure i did everything correctly
Great job man. I have done this years ago on my bullitt. I have to give you major credit. I see others making videos of doing it the wrong way. You did it right.
Outstanding and concise video. I get a little bit of a rattle if I don't drive my Lincoln Town Car for a day or two. I'd rather do it now than later. Thank you for leaving out all the stupid details. There's a good chance that if anybody is doing this, they don't need a close up of the 8mm socket you're using to undo the airbox. There's a pretty good chance they don't need that knowledge nugget. Your information was detailed and valuable.
Cool vid man! I did this for the first time a few years ago with stage 2 cams with all new components with success. I didn’t lock cams or crank I just made sure all pistons were below deck by inserting a rod in each cylinder to double check piston height, might not be common way but worked great and put my mind at ease. It’s definitely a nerve racking process for the first time especially adding aftermarket cams. I changed oil pump so i needed to prime and I turned over to prime whole system before starting as well. There is definitely a chance for chain to jump a tooth on startup without being primed and without you knowing.Thumbs up👍!
Set crank keyway to 12 o'clock and the pistons will all be low enough to not hit the valves. No need to pull rocker arms or use cam holding tool. Thank you for the video!
If I’m doing a chain replacement on my 4.6 2V in my 02 GT and it’s timing is set already can I just put the keyway to 12 o’clock and and swap out the chains , guides and tensioners? I have the cam holding tool and valve covers off. I’m just making sure the proper marks to be at.
one tip could be instead of unplugging the crank sensor just crank the car in clear flood mode which is gas pedal to the floor and crank it, the car wont start but you can crank as long as you want
@@topnotchcontent It depends on the vehicle, but most of them have that feature for safety reasons. The fuel pump is disabled when the gas pedal is pushed down to prevent engine damage, or a possible runaway. Still though, the superior way of doing this is to just pull the fuel pump relay.
Thanks for the video...my 4.6 in 2000 expedition seems realistic fir me to do with a small investment in tools. No startup rattle yet so I'll hold off. 297 000 miles with consistent oil changes.
Not even halfway through and I'm confident that this is achievable, going to watch it a couple times though. Noticed chain smacking last week, have had low oil pressure for a while. May step up my cams also. 01 Crown Vic.
I got a 2009 vic p71 I done so much work to really clean car but the only thing is the timing chains .I have no problems but ik it's never been replaced so it won't hurt to change it .this video definitely gave me motivation to order the kit and tackle it thanks man .
I'm going to do mine here shortly before winter comes around on my 03 grand marquis seems to have erratic startup rattle sometimes after sitting after a while it does it while sometimes it doesn't rattle. it's at 230K, doesn't have any other issues besides that. I'm also replacing the oil pump as well while at it looks intimidating at first but with the right tools i got it.
Man i just found your channel. Not sure how it has never popped up before. Got a 4.6 in a 1997 Expedition with 280k on the clock. Never have had to do any of this stuff, but I like to know what I might have to tackle someday. Sort of going for a record with her lol. Anyway, your vids are awesome.
You can't just pull the pins, sometimes there will be slack opposite of the tensioner side on the chain( I meant that the chain touching the tensioner will be tight, but there may be "slack" on the opposite chain side if the cams are not in the correct time). If I remember right the LH camshaft sprocket is 12 o'clock and the RH at 11. There being slack opposite of the tensioner side means that timing is slightly off. Your method about removing the roller followers prior to messing with the chains was correct, good advice there. Also I think that cam holding tool you were using (T96T-6256-B) is only meant to be used on Windsor engines, I have a Romeo 4.6 2v and had to use (T92P-6256-A) and (T91P-6256-A). I love these engines, not a fan of the 3v. The HV Melling oil pump is def a must on the 3V's, I hate the new style plastic tensioners and cam phasers (too many issues)
Dude. It’s wild looking at your clean engine and engine bay lol. I’m doing chains, guides and tensioners on my 02 GT that just hit 250,000 miles lol. It runs like a top but it’s definitely greasy on the front cover and valve covers. The right hand guide plastic broke, I started hearing the mild chain smack on the plastic a week ago. So before it gets bad or jumps timing I’m doing it.
hey man long time subscriber here - love your work. Today I ran into an issue doing this job on my 2011 Crown Victoria Police Interceptor. I've asked about 100 people online and everyone is telling me something different, so I thought I'd ask the expert directly. I replaced the chains, guides and tensioners with Melling parts. The driver's side chain lined up perfectly dot-to-dot. The passenger side is off 1 link. Would you suggest I remove the cam holding tool & turn the cam sprocket with a wrench slightly to get the chain to line up? Some are telling me this is perfectly fine to do, and others are saying not to do it - and if it's not lining up then something is wrong. I would really appreciate your input. Thank you sir
I just bought a 01 f150 with a 4.6 and my local mechanic says I have a blocked oil passage and it is making my timing chain wear out due to the computer retard my timing and as a result the chain is making a slapping noise. His suggestion is to get a new motor and not mess with the timing chain due to the blocked oil passage. I also seen another video where a guy found a piece of rubber gasket stuck in the oil passage restrictor on the passenger side, so his and your video gives me hope that I don't need to buy a new engine for my truck. Thanks for the great video
First thing I would do is drop the oil pan and examine it for any blocking causing oil starvation if anything it would be broken pieces of timing guides that you'd find!
11:20 you could also pull the fuel pump relay, that is a much easier thing to do if your engine is fully assembled. The crank sensors are on the bottom of the timing cover on these 4.6L engines, and like mine, it's pretty much blocked by the A/C compressor.
@@281cu6 It wasn't that bad. The only real pain is the passenger valve cover, which is a really tight fit in the back. It is just a matter of patiently disconnecting the wires around the cover and then working the cover off. And of course, the rear of the cover leaked when reassembled so I had to remove it and do it again. But the second try I had a helper hold the wire harnesses and hoses out of the way while I shimmied the cover back on. I did it over two half days, but can easily be done in a day. The chains and the guides themselves go on very easily.
@@mikehenry4743 Thanks for the update! Gives me a bit of courage to know that info. I'll make sure I have a helper. I'm planning on changing these out in 30K-ish on my Grand Marquis. Figured it could use a fresh set being that it's an 04'.
@@281cu6 I'm planning on doing this today on my grand marquis, I went to change the coil pack on the 8th cylinder and found oil in the spark plug well, so I'm hoping its just the head gasket thats leaking oil into the combustion chamber and not the piston ring 😅 if you're ok with it, is there a way we can contact each other, I would like to know what issues you've ran into before I start this job so I can prepare
Great video. I purchased the 6477 cam holding tool. It doesn’t say 2003-04 GT, but I’m seeing some say it still worked. Do you know if that’s the part number you used? Thanks again
That's what I used. I don't know why they would say it wouldn't work. All 2v's have an exposed spot not covered by a cam tower cage which lets that tool work.
Thanks for the video. So just finished replacing the chains/gears/tensioners in a 2005 F150 that was clicking loud. Drivers side guide broken. Gasket blown on tensioner. Got it back together, fired up and it’s still making noise, what now? Clogged oil gallery? Need new slack adjusters?
A man that is so true on people being afraid on the 4.6 timing i am one of them I have been put in it off for almost 13 years on my 97 GT I hat a problem of a spark plug tripping the tread of one of the heads I removed the heads bought new ones and there are still in the original package heads and timing chains and I always tell my self next weekend and that weekend never comes ha ha
Thank you man, I was getting ready to start my build And was unsure where the cam gears with the dots.. 11 and 12 and 6 for crank makes this easy never done one before.
Done a jillion of them, I have the cam holders. Never used the crank thing. 2 1/2 hours on most changes, unless I have to find something, I've miss placed.
Hey repair geek. You have a patience of the same he's 4.6 mod motors real junk the valve train components of still 25 to 2700 bucks and you're lucky if you get 300 horsepower out of this motor.. God bless the coyote overall I got to say the repair geek channel good stuff good information good presentation most of all really good camera work.
Very helpfull and informative !! I purchased a cloyes timing set same as the kit you used. Right side guide had busted were bolt holds guide to head and parts were missing not realizing the revised thickness. I spent about two hours searching for bolt. Started researching why my stock bolt didnt fit, maybee i got wrong kit. Thanks to your informative video it proved that im not going crazy !!!! Gettin old is a bitch bro i set parts/tools down getting side tracked , most likely my ADHD. 🤪. Spend time looking for shit when ida been done and running.
Yes. It would, the issue is the cams turn at 1/2 the speed of the crankshaft. So you can line up the TDC notch but you still have the possibility of the cams being 180 degrees off.
I’ve done hundreds of timing chains on ford 5.4, 4.6 and have never used a cam holding tool in my entire career. Even if the cam were to spring back there’s not enough pressure to damage anything at all.
good video my brother ,,i got 2004 maruader 112,000 miles on it..eventually im gonna have do my engine it has that rattle sound only when u frist start it up for about few seconds then it goes away..maybe timming chain tensioner latting the chain slap to the oil fill them or hydraullio cylinder in the tensionerare alittle worn
@@llennon73 I'm hoping to start on mine in a month. 170k on it and cross my fingers every time I drive it. I will do the 2 degree advance on the cams when it goes back together. Thanks for the responce. B.R.
Benton Rodeheaver I’m changing my guides, chains, etc... don’t feel bad this is a first for me as I speak and like many I’m nervous hoping mines turns out correct after how the gentleman explained
@@t.farris1755 Just rember remember if you want better mileage/torque advance the vams 2 degrees and do the brown wire modification it disengages thefront differential when in 2wd. Mine's getting an electric fan also. These combined are +++ for MPG. Cold air intake is another.
I'll tell you what makes these jobs hard: When a bolt rounds off and is stuck, and having to deal with several of these because the knucklehead who worked on it the last time used Loctite on the critical fasteners because he didn't have a torque wrench and just "wanted to make sure".
I don't like the cast iron tensioners and the only reason is the ratcheting mechanism. It causes the guides to wear through in many cases, since tension can't let up. The newer plastic style has its issues with seal blowing, but they don't chew up the tensioning guides the way the cast iron ones do.
hey man great video - I'm about to do this job for the first time on my 2011 Crown Vic Police Interceptor. I watched a ton of videos and many say once you lock the cams with the cam locking tool to not rotate them again with the chain off, or it could mess up the timing. but then most videos end up rotating them slightly with the tool off, to line up the chain properly? little confused by this
Nice video I would add a few things. first when installing new chains I would have at least pre soaked them in engine oil. I use a ultrasonic cleaner with my chains and oil to make sure oil the chain is properly pre lubed. second when building up oil pressure you just need to turn the key to the on position then hold the gas pedal to the floor then crank the engine over a few times like you mentioned until the oil pressure light goes out then release the gas pedal and the car will start. I do this every time I start my car after a oil change or if it has sat for any length of time.
The tensioners have oil sprayers that spray on the chains. If you pre-lube the engine, oil should spray on the chains as well. There is no harm in soaking them either. Thanks for watching.
I watched your video because I need to replace my oil pump and was trying to learn how to do the timing chain. Is much of this will I be able to cut out since I am changing my oil pump only?
Where did you get that cool beeping torques wrench. I have. 3/8 clicking torques wrench but haven’t used it and it’s lowest setting may exceed that required by the 13pound feet. Also thanks for the awesome and simple Video
Nice video, to the point, didn't have to watch your cat or kids. Do you have a list of all the additional parts necessary to complete this task? valve cover gasket, timing cover gasket, front seal, etc....?
Hi Repair Geek, Thank you for your reply. I did check a cylinder on each side of the 4.6, and both had compression. I believe that would show that the chains are not broken. Originally the timing chains were making a lot of noise. Took my 2000 expedition to a shop, and the guy there said to quit driving, and replace the timing chains... I let the expedition sit for 6 months, then tried starting... First engine turned over normal, then had a different lighter sound while trying to start. I can get the engine to fire intermittently, (kind of bumps around), but won't come close to starting. What do you think I should check now? Thank you for your help, and suport!!!
@@RepairGeek yup I plan to change oil and flush motor... thanks have too do valve stem seal too ...once I put it back together I can turn the motor by hand to check valves are not hitting pistons ?
Sir pleasant evening i have a problems on my ford expedtion v8 triton romeo i use the old one timing chain but it has no timing mark any idea how can i count so that i can timing the engine very expensive here in the phillipines thank you so much when i saw your video its very useful for me as a beginners ,,
Any videos on a f150 4.6 not sure if I can access them without removing the engine. wondering if I should check mine. I hear rattling but only above 2500 rpms im guessing the chains.
What to do when cam rotates and have to put it back at top dead center? Putting the pistons at tdc is easy but the cam shaft is a little more difficult to get the actual tdc
OEM Ford Manual. You can find them all day long on Ebay. The newer stuff may be harder because they are all electronic but back in 01 they still printed them. I have 3 different volumes on this car. One is about 3 inches thick. The other is about 1.5 and I have a manual of just wiring diagrams. Hard to beat for $100 about 14 years ago.
Whenever you hear a rattle at start up it’s time. It will tell you when it needs to be replaced. At least it has for the last 2 4.6 engines I’ve owned.
Good video. Ever do a video on how change cams on the same motor? I'm putting Crower cams on my 2V soon and can't find a good video on how to along with retime it.
I have a 2006 2v 4.6 that has a very faint tick at idle and it speeds up with rpm. The car has been making the same noise since I bought it with 118k on it. Now I’m at 160k and it’s the same but I’m noticing metal in the oil. Do you think it’s a lash adjuster and rocker? Or the timing chain. Again it’s very faint sounds like I’d you tapped a screwdriver on a piece of metal very lightly.
I'm about to replace timing cover due to broken idler boss. Was gonna do chain guides and tensioner not chains. Nervous about all the seals and rtv without leaking. Any tips?
How much should/would this cost to have done by a shop? I think I might have timing chain/guide noise. It comes and goes randomly. But I finally got the noise today and was able to pull the belt, which leads me to believe it’s inside the timing section. Not sure if this is something. Should tackle myself or let a shop do it
What is the best way to re-install if I did not get 1 chain lined up on the cam gear? I am 1 tooth off but have already pulled my pins on the tensioners.
Here are some of the parts and tools I used for this job:
Crank holding tool: amzn.to/2SwFMP6
Cam Holding tool (2 required): amzn.to/2SB0BZV
Cam follower removal tool: amzn.to/2XVPe4F
DOUBLE CHECK THE FITMENT ON THE PARTS! There are too many different timing sets for me to list all of them. If your vehicle has plastic tensioners I would suggest upgrading to the iron version. They have proven to be more durable.
Bolt Part#: W709818 S437
Parts:
Ford Racing Timing Set: amzn.to/2SwwuTB
Cloyes (plastic guides, iron tensioners): amzn.to/2Y3paji
Cloyes (metal guides, iron tensioners): amzn.to/2YkkiKT
I think you did a very his job showing us how to replace timing chain
So did you go with the plastic guide kit or metal guide kit?
@@t.farris1755 turn the crank until the timing mark is at 6 o'clock on the crank gear and the dot on the cam gears are at the top.
Repair Geek sorry for asking a lot of questions but this is my first time doing this and I just want to make sure I’m doing it correctly so I don’t damage the engine
Hey Geek i know I can use the iron tensioner's on a 2004 crown Victoria @ list I think I can.. does the cloyes kit come with the metal gasket for the tensioner's do I need to use them or can I use the tensioner's on the crown Victoria the same way you used it on your mustang with out the plate/metal gasket? Or are the metal gasket only used in other applications? Also my car came from factory with the plastic tensioner's
Well done. The tensioners have a fail safe feature that physically limits the amount of non tension so as to avoid piston to valve issues with momentary lack of oil pressure.
Removing all 8 spark plugs will aid in the reduction of forces, including residual combustion chamber compressed gasses pressing down on the piston, and this can held reduce the hazard of bending valves.
I'm glad you used metal tensioners as the plastic ones get weak and the spring gets weak and after 6-7 years of heat cycles and allow for super loose chains on start up and the loose chain on the driver's side will eventually bust the left side chain guide.
The metal tensioners have that little ratcheting arm that presses up and keep the chains tight by keeping the tensioner arm pushed up tight in the absence of oil pressure.
Great video.
Very Helpful......I know garages complain too...but for a average joe like myself i would have to take a solid 4 days off to do this outside no garage......i get nervous im gonna screw it up so i go slow to make sure i did everything correctly
Great job man. I have done this years ago on my bullitt. I have to give you major credit. I see others making videos of doing it the wrong way. You did it right.
Thanks love the channel.
Justin and you you guys both are awesome. I just watched both your videos and bought all the tools.
Outstanding and concise video. I get a little bit of a rattle if I don't drive my Lincoln Town Car for a day or two. I'd rather do it now than later. Thank you for leaving out all the stupid details. There's a good chance that if anybody is doing this, they don't need a close up of the 8mm socket you're using to undo the airbox. There's a pretty good chance they don't need that knowledge nugget. Your information was detailed and valuable.
Thank you. And thanks for the crank no start tip. NEVER crank a new chain up without priming the oil system.
Cool vid man! I did this for the first time a few years ago with stage 2 cams with all new components with success. I didn’t lock cams or crank I just made sure all pistons were below deck by inserting a rod in each cylinder to double check piston height, might not be common way but worked great and put my mind at ease. It’s definitely a nerve racking process for the first time especially adding aftermarket cams. I changed oil pump so i needed to prime and I turned over to prime whole system before starting as well. There is definitely a chance for chain to jump a tooth on startup without being primed and without you knowing.Thumbs up👍!
Been putting that off for a year because of lack of good instructions. You have made it look easy. Thanks
I am about to tackle my chains on a 2005 Crown Vic LX Sport. I got 2 seconds of rattle in the front of the motor on startup. Thanks for the video.
How did it go? I’m so intimidated by not knowing where to lock the motor down at and making sure my dots are lined up.
@@josephmcnamee9338 It went fine. There are video's all over YT that tell you exactly how to do it. Just take your time.
@@dwaynestimpson5449did you lock your cams with the tool or did you remove the cam followers so the cam wouldn’t rotate??
@@MrDoItAll91 used the cam tools. Worked out great runs like a champ
@@dwaynestimpson5449 thank you. They’ll be delivered today so I can get this job done this weekend
Absolutely love my 2V 4.6 bcuz of the simplicity to work on her myself. Awesome vid.
Set crank keyway to 12 o'clock and the pistons will all be low enough to not hit the valves. No need to pull rocker arms or use cam holding tool. Thank you for the video!
If I’m doing a chain replacement on my 4.6 2V in my 02 GT and it’s timing is set already can I just put the keyway to 12 o’clock and and swap out the chains , guides and tensioners? I have the cam holding tool and valve covers off. I’m just making sure the proper marks to be at.
I wish I saw this video sooner. Could have saved me a lot of work. I will know better for next time. Thanks.
one tip could be instead of unplugging the crank sensor just crank the car in clear flood mode which is gas pedal to the floor and crank it, the car wont start but you can crank as long as you want
It doesn't have a carburetor so it won't flood. It will start up at crazy high revolution and damage the engine immediately!
@@topnotchcontent It depends on the vehicle, but most of them have that feature for safety reasons. The fuel pump is disabled when the gas pedal is pushed down to prevent engine damage, or a possible runaway. Still though, the superior way of doing this is to just pull the fuel pump relay.
Thanks for the video...my 4.6 in 2000 expedition seems realistic fir me to do with a small investment in tools. No startup rattle yet so I'll hold off. 297 000 miles with consistent oil changes.
Not even halfway through and I'm confident that this is achievable, going to watch it a couple times though. Noticed chain smacking last week, have had low oil pressure for a while. May step up my cams also.
01 Crown Vic.
Hardest part seems to be taking everything else apart to get to it
Only if you are not rebuilding the engine. Modular engines are not hard to work on. 😊
It usually is on these things.
Pretty easy to take off and put everything on did it in 2 hours 😂
@@Rowdy_2v i simply said "hardest part"
Never said the whole process was.
Truth!
I got a 2009 vic p71 I done so much work to really clean car but the only thing is the timing chains .I have no problems but ik it's never been replaced so it won't hurt to change it .this video definitely gave me motivation to order the kit and tackle it thanks man .
I'm going to do mine here shortly before winter comes around on my 03 grand marquis seems to have erratic startup rattle sometimes after sitting after a while it does it while sometimes it doesn't rattle. it's at 230K, doesn't have any other issues besides that. I'm also replacing the oil pump as well while at it looks intimidating at first but with the right tools i got it.
Man i just found your channel. Not sure how it has never popped up before. Got a 4.6 in a 1997 Expedition with 280k on the clock. Never have had to do any of this stuff, but I like to know what I might have to tackle someday. Sort of going for a record with her lol.
Anyway, your vids are awesome.
I love those old cast iron ratcheting style tensioners. I wish the 4.0 SOHC utilized something like that.
You can't just pull the pins, sometimes there will be slack opposite of the tensioner side on the chain( I meant that the chain touching the tensioner will be tight, but there may be "slack" on the opposite chain side if the cams are not in the correct time). If I remember right the LH camshaft sprocket is 12 o'clock and the RH at 11. There being slack opposite of the tensioner side means that timing is slightly off. Your method about removing the roller followers prior to messing with the chains was correct, good advice there. Also I think that cam holding tool you were using (T96T-6256-B) is only meant to be used on Windsor engines, I have a Romeo 4.6 2v and had to use (T92P-6256-A) and (T91P-6256-A).
I love these engines, not a fan of the 3v. The HV Melling oil pump is def a must on the 3V's, I hate the new style plastic tensioners and cam phasers (too many issues)
Dude. It’s wild looking at your clean engine and engine bay lol. I’m doing chains, guides and tensioners on my 02 GT that just hit 250,000 miles lol. It runs like a top but it’s definitely greasy on the front cover and valve covers. The right hand guide plastic broke, I started hearing the mild chain smack on the plastic a week ago. So before it gets bad or jumps timing I’m doing it.
hey man long time subscriber here - love your work. Today I ran into an issue doing this job on my 2011 Crown Victoria Police Interceptor. I've asked about 100 people online and everyone is telling me something different, so I thought I'd ask the expert directly. I replaced the chains, guides and tensioners with Melling parts. The driver's side chain lined up perfectly dot-to-dot. The passenger side is off 1 link. Would you suggest I remove the cam holding tool & turn the cam sprocket with a wrench slightly to get the chain to line up? Some are telling me this is perfectly fine to do, and others are saying not to do it - and if it's not lining up then something is wrong. I would really appreciate your input. Thank you sir
Explained very well. Make it look easy. Shopping for parts now.
I just bought a 01 f150 with a 4.6 and my local mechanic says I have a blocked oil passage and it is making my timing chain wear out due to the computer retard my timing and as a result the chain is making a slapping noise.
His suggestion is to get a new motor and not mess with the timing chain due to the blocked oil passage.
I also seen another video where a guy found a piece of rubber gasket stuck in the oil passage restrictor on the passenger side, so his and your video gives me hope that I don't need to buy a new engine for my truck.
Thanks for the great video
First thing I would do is drop the oil pan and examine it for any blocking causing oil starvation if anything it would be broken pieces of timing guides that you'd find!
Like your attitude and simple instructions. Thanks, JD
11:20 you could also pull the fuel pump relay, that is a much easier thing to do if your engine is fully assembled. The crank sensors are on the bottom of the timing cover on these 4.6L engines, and like mine, it's pretty much blocked by the A/C compressor.
Great tutorial, getting ready to do this on my Town car.
How did it go?
@@281cu6 It wasn't that bad. The only real pain is the passenger valve cover, which is a really tight fit in the back. It is just a matter of patiently disconnecting the wires around the cover and then working the cover off. And of course, the rear of the cover leaked when reassembled so I had to remove it and do it again. But the second try I had a helper hold the wire harnesses and hoses out of the way while I shimmied the cover back on. I did it over two half days, but can easily be done in a day. The chains and the guides themselves go on very easily.
@@mikehenry4743 Thanks for the update! Gives me a bit of courage to know that info. I'll make sure I have a helper. I'm planning on changing these out in 30K-ish on my Grand Marquis. Figured it could use a fresh set being that it's an 04'.
@@281cu6 Good luck, once you start it is not that bad at all.
@@281cu6 I'm planning on doing this today on my grand marquis, I went to change the coil pack on the 8th cylinder and found oil in the spark plug well, so I'm hoping its just the head gasket thats leaking oil into the combustion chamber and not the piston ring 😅 if you're ok with it, is there a way we can contact each other, I would like to know what issues you've ran into before I start this job so I can prepare
Great video. I purchased the 6477 cam holding tool. It doesn’t say 2003-04 GT, but I’m seeing some say it still worked. Do you know if that’s the part number you used? Thanks again
That's what I used. I don't know why they would say it wouldn't work. All 2v's have an exposed spot not covered by a cam tower cage which lets that tool work.
@@RepairGeek I used them today. They worked well. Thanks 🙏🏼
Thanks for the video.
So just finished replacing the chains/gears/tensioners in a 2005 F150 that was clicking loud. Drivers side guide broken. Gasket blown on tensioner. Got it back together, fired up and it’s still making noise, what now? Clogged oil gallery? Need new slack adjusters?
Finally a good video good explanation thanks men..I have to change my guides and tensioners on my marauder...
Marauder is a 4v. It's different.
So the camshaft holding tool it would not work on the 4v? Do you know which one I would need?
@@hectorjimenez7328
th-cam.com/video/9eCDxp3fcU4/w-d-xo.html
It's pretty similar. You'll probably need to lock the 4 cams with a different tool.
Colt 604 I already change my tensioners guides and chains..I just used zip ties
@@hectorjimenez7328 Sweet! Glad to hear you got it done 😊
A man that is so true on people being afraid on the 4.6 timing i am one of them I have been put in it off for almost 13 years on my 97 GT I hat a problem of a spark plug tripping the tread of one of the heads I removed the heads bought new ones and there are still in the original package heads and timing chains and I always tell my self next weekend and that weekend never comes ha ha
Ferber b join sn95 forums! Would love to see and help you out man
Thank you man, I was getting ready to start my build And was unsure where the cam gears with the dots.. 11 and 12 and 6 for crank makes this easy never done one before.
Just buy the manual
Excellent work as usual 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Awesome video man. I love the 4.6 2v engine
Done a jillion of them, I have the cam holders. Never used the crank thing. 2 1/2 hours on most changes, unless I have to find something, I've miss placed.
Where did you find the cam holders
Hey repair geek. You have a patience of the same he's 4.6 mod motors real junk the valve train components of still 25 to 2700 bucks and you're lucky if you get 300 horsepower out of this motor.. God bless the coyote overall I got to say the repair geek channel good stuff good information good presentation most of all really good camera work.
Very helpfull and informative !! I purchased a cloyes timing set same as the kit you used. Right side guide had busted were bolt holds guide to head and parts were missing not realizing the revised thickness. I spent about two hours searching for bolt. Started researching why my stock bolt didnt fit, maybee i got wrong kit. Thanks to your informative video it proved that im not going crazy !!!! Gettin old is a bitch bro i set parts/tools down getting side tracked , most likely my ADHD. 🤪. Spend time looking for shit when ida been done and running.
I’m definitely subscribing. Thanks bud ! Awesome illustration 🔥
That's what she said. Killed me. Thanks for vid.
So with the harmonic balancer notch at tdc. Wouldn’t that automatically have crank gear notch at 6 o’clock already
Yes. It would, the issue is the cams turn at 1/2 the speed of the crankshaft. So you can line up the TDC notch but you still have the possibility of the cams being 180 degrees off.
I’ve done hundreds of timing chains on ford 5.4, 4.6 and have never used a cam holding tool in my entire career. Even if the cam were to spring back there’s not enough pressure to damage anything at all.
good video my brother ,,i got 2004 maruader 112,000 miles on it..eventually im gonna have do my engine it has that rattle sound only when u frist start it up for about few seconds then it goes away..maybe timming chain tensioner latting the chain slap to the oil fill them or hydraullio cylinder in the tensionerare alittle worn
Those guys that get uptight about the chains should watch vids on the 4.0 (four chains + jackshaft).
I have that motor and did the timing with engine in ....i learned alot
@@llennon73 I'm hoping to start on mine in a month. 170k on it and cross my fingers every time I drive it. I will do the 2 degree advance on the cams when it goes back together. Thanks for the responce. B.R.
Benton Rodeheaver I’m changing my guides, chains, etc... don’t feel bad this is a first for me as I speak and like many I’m nervous hoping mines turns out correct after how the gentleman explained
@@t.farris1755 Just rember remember if you want better mileage/torque advance the vams 2 degrees and do the brown wire modification it disengages thefront differential when in 2wd. Mine's getting an electric fan also. These combined are +++ for MPG. Cold air intake is another.
Benton Rodeheaver well I’m just trying to change my timing chains and tensioners
great video. I believe the tensioner arm with the little nub goes on the driver's side. probably doesn't really matter, but...
S*** you just showed me how to do my timing set tomorrow thanks
How did it go?
Not as bad as i thought it would be. Looks easy. I'm going to do it myself instead of taking it to a shop. Thanks for making the video.
Getting to the chains is harder than replacing them.
@@RepairGeek what's books do you recommend reading for the 4.6 and 5.4l 2v engine I want to learn more about them and and all its components
great video mate!! makes it alot less intimidating of a job!!
Great video, I think it will help other people out.
would have been nice to see you install the cam holding tool..still greta info thanks .
As I’m thinking this doesn’t look all that hard you start talking about people being scared to mess with them😉
I was that guy 🤣😂😎👍
I'll tell you what makes these jobs hard: When a bolt rounds off and is stuck, and having to deal with several of these because the knucklehead who worked on it the last time used Loctite on the critical fasteners because he didn't have a torque wrench and just "wanted to make sure".
Wish you was here in Memphis I’ve been trying to find somebody to do my time in chain for a while I have a Mercury grand marquis
Same dawg
I don't like the cast iron tensioners and the only reason is the ratcheting mechanism. It causes the guides to wear through in many cases, since tension can't let up. The newer plastic style has its issues with seal blowing, but they don't chew up the tensioning guides the way the cast iron ones do.
Great Video - Really Like Spot On Communications & Extra Insight into Little Things to Protect Your Investment . .
hey man great video - I'm about to do this job for the first time on my 2011 Crown Vic Police Interceptor. I watched a ton of videos and many say once you lock the cams with the cam locking tool to not rotate them again with the chain off, or it could mess up the timing. but then most videos end up rotating them slightly with the tool off, to line up the chain properly? little confused by this
Nice job. I have a '00 grand marquis with 161k great runner and rides beautiful
Thank you very much for you help, you save my life, thank you again, have a great day
Nice video I would add a few things. first when installing new chains I would have at least pre soaked them in engine oil. I use a ultrasonic cleaner with my chains and oil to make sure oil the chain is properly pre lubed. second when building up oil pressure you just need to turn the key to the on position then hold the gas pedal to the floor then crank the engine over a few times like you mentioned until the oil pressure light goes out then release the gas pedal and the car will start. I do this every time I start my car after a oil change or if it has sat for any length of time.
The tensioners have oil sprayers that spray on the chains. If you pre-lube the engine, oil should spray on the chains as well. There is no harm in soaking them either. Thanks for watching.
Great Video.
But, I would pre lube the chains and gears with assembly lube.
Absolutely great video! I appreciate it.
I watched your video because I need to replace my oil pump and was trying to learn how to do the timing chain. Is much of this will I be able to cut out since I am changing my oil pump only?
originally the crank gear was two piece with not enough slot on the key ........after a repair a few miles down the road ...POP !
Nice job on the video I am going to buy a 02 f150 and you have to order the bolt thanks
Where did you get that cool beeping torques wrench. I have. 3/8 clicking torques wrench but haven’t used it and it’s lowest setting may exceed that required by the 13pound feet.
Also thanks for the awesome and simple Video
Nice video, to the point, didn't have to watch your cat or kids. Do you have a list of all the additional parts necessary to complete this task? valve cover gasket, timing cover gasket, front seal, etc....?
Vice grips on the camshaft work just as well
Put the crank at 30degrees before tdc and the cam can spin without interference
Hi Repair Geek, Thank you for your reply. I did check a cylinder on each side of the 4.6, and both had compression. I believe that would show that the chains are not broken. Originally the timing chains were making a lot of noise. Took my 2000 expedition to a shop, and the guy there said to quit driving, and replace the timing chains... I let the expedition sit for 6 months, then tried starting... First engine turned over normal, then had a different lighter sound while trying to start. I can get the engine to fire intermittently, (kind of bumps around), but won't come close to starting. What do you think I should check now? Thank you for your help, and suport!!!
Great video, nice and clear.
Same for a f150 with 4.6 "Triton" 2v right? I think the only difference is intake manifold..
with the chains off, would the cams move when the holding tools are removed? Would this even matter if replacing cams too?
Thank bro i been afraid to do mines on my 02 f150 due to it being a timing chain
GOOD VIDEO
the milwaukee impact ?
3/8 or 1/4 drive ?
That one is 1/4. I have the 3/8ths as well.
Great video ... yup have to replace mine hear metal on metal and like chain rubbing valve cover ..... Thanks for the video
Make sure you clean out the bottom of the pan. I've seen the broken tensioner plastic clog the oil pickup.
@@RepairGeek yup I plan to change oil and flush motor... thanks have too do valve stem seal too ...once I put it back together I can turn the motor by hand to check valves are not hitting pistons ?
@@bengordon7635 hi was wondering how you made out with doing this and the valves seals I'm about to get into it myself on a 2011 cvpi thanks
@@leardi58 haha , was planning on doing it soon had some other stuff on car I was working on...
Great video only thing im reccomend is replace oil pump while your in there
Thanks you look and sound like the real deal I wish we were friends I could use your help
Sir pleasant evening i have a problems on my ford expedtion v8 triton romeo i use the old one timing chain but it has no timing mark any idea how can i count so that i can timing the engine very expensive here in the phillipines thank you so much when i saw your video its very useful for me as a beginners ,,
Mark the opposite ends of the chain as shown at 2:43
Affer replacing the tensioners, will the chain have any slack while testing by hand? Seems like one side has slack and the other doesnt
Any videos on a f150 4.6 not sure if I can access them without removing the engine. wondering if I should check mine. I hear rattling but only above 2500 rpms im guessing the chains.
What to do when cam rotates and have to put it back at top dead center? Putting the pistons at tdc is easy but the cam shaft is a little more difficult to get the actual tdc
The reason for the tool for the crankshaft is necessary for most, is because its possible to rotate the engine while removing the crank pulley.
doing this right now with my friend, we didn’t use anything we just retimed it when we put the new stuff on
How to retime ?
what repair book are you using for this? very helpful video thank you
OEM Ford Manual. You can find them all day long on Ebay. The newer stuff may be harder because they are all electronic but back in 01 they still printed them. I have 3 different volumes on this car. One is about 3 inches thick. The other is about 1.5 and I have a manual of just wiring diagrams. Hard to beat for $100 about 14 years ago.
Do you ever do any timing chain replacements for other people? If so what state are you in?
Have a 2011 Crown Victoria PI. 130k when should I expect to be doing this I'm thinking it's never been done. Thanks for any help 👍
Whenever you hear a rattle at start up it’s time. It will tell you when it needs to be replaced. At least it has for the last 2 4.6 engines I’ve owned.
My 01 Cv LX is starting to experience engine noise at 418,000 kms
Mine started rattling at 108K.
Thanks awesome video followed as instructed no problem.
Good video. Ever do a video on how change cams on the same motor? I'm putting Crower cams on my 2V soon and can't find a good video on how to along with retime it.
Great video man
Should be using a little blue locktight on all the fasteners
Good video!
Got ahead of myself plus my first time doing a timing job on my truck.
I aligned the tdc in park should i be worried?
I have a 2006 2v 4.6 that has a very faint tick at idle and it speeds up with rpm. The car has been making the same noise since I bought it with 118k on it. Now I’m at 160k and it’s the same but I’m noticing metal in the oil. Do you think it’s a lash adjuster and rocker? Or the timing chain. Again it’s very faint sounds like I’d you tapped a screwdriver on a piece of metal very lightly.
Probably a chain or tensioner. If you let the noise go they will eat up the timing cover.
@@RepairGeek thanks
Which brand of parts did you go with. Need to do mine soon on my 06’ mercury.
Do you think Metal guides are better than plastic ones and if so why?
Awesome video thanks a lot bro.🤙🔥🔥🔥
I'm about to replace timing cover due to broken idler boss. Was gonna do chain guides and tensioner not chains. Nervous about all the seals and rtv without leaking. Any tips?
Can someone answer what new valve cover seals he used brand names and what other gaskets used
How much should/would this cost to have done by a shop? I think I might have timing chain/guide noise. It comes and goes randomly. But I finally got the noise today and was able to pull the belt, which leads me to believe it’s inside the timing section. Not sure if this is something. Should tackle myself or let a shop do it
Killer torque wrench!
Crank shaft gear is at 6 o'clock is that right. ?
What is the best way to re-install if I did not get 1 chain lined up on the cam gear? I am 1 tooth off but have already pulled my pins on the tensioners.