A good time saver for posts that are not rotted and in good shape but have become loose is to buy a peice of 12ft rebar and cut it down and sink a few pieces down alongside the loose post and then use a metal strap to attach the post to the rebar. Its a good method when money is tight and the post itself is salvageable.
Thank you James! A storm in Indiana blew down our fence partially - not a section, but just fell over on one side from the corner and this will definitely help with the repair!!
Nice details from getting air pockets out, bracing posts, shrinkage, to making sure concrete was --above-- ground level, most videos stressed importance of below ground level which will invite rot. Thanks!
Good video, I picked up some tidbits of knowledge. I would have appreciated seeing/learning how you set the post, specifically the method and components used to make it plumb and brace it in place. I enjoy your delivery style, keep up the great work.
Nice video! I just replaced my first rotted wooden fence post. The one thing I did different was use concrete mix specifically made for this purpose; you pour it into the hole around the new post, then add water. It's fully set in less than an hour. I'm sure now that one post has rotted, more are to follow in the next few years. Thanks for the additional tips!
I installed my 1st wooden privacy fence about 10 years ago. A different design than yours - lots more lumber, and one of the 4x4 posts I put in had a lot of filler material. I thought at the time that I wished I didn't use it. Sure enough,10 years later and that post needed replacing - it twisted crooked from weathering at all the places it had the wood filler from the factory. Anyway, I saw a video showing an easy way to remove the post - I drove in a few deck screws, and slowly jacked the post up w/ a scissor car jack! Once it was 90% up, I was able to get it the rest of the way by hand. Of course, if your post is rotten and breaks off at ground level this may not work for you.
Yes, it’s the ground level rotting that makes most of those “easy ways” not an option. Usually it’s not an easy job ; that my story and I’m sticking to it.
Good video. You can buy your fence pickets a few weeks ahead of time and lay them flat in the sun for a few weeks to reduce the shrinking if you want tighter gaps between pickets.
I have replaced post that are rotted at the ground level or just below. Most of the time the rotted part is a small section at ground level and below further into the ground but the post is still good below that. The old 4X4 post section that is still in the concrete in the hole can be removed and leave a perfect 4X4 cavity in the old concrete where the post use to be. To do this use a wood paddle bit with an extension and drill out the bad rotten wood at the top of the bad post still in the ground. When all the rotten wood is drilled out, there will be solid wood left still inside the hole. Use a garage wet/dry shop vacuum and use it to suck all the rotten wood shavings out of the hole cavity. Insert a1/2 inch lag bolt x 4 inches long through a chain link of a three foot piece of chain. However make sure the chain is long enough to attach the other end of the chain to a high-lift jack( or similar jack). Take a socket/ plus a 1/2 inch drive ratchet with an extension that fits the lag bolt size (with chain attached) and screw it into the wood post inside the hole. One may have to drill a pilot hole to get the bolt started. When the bolt is tight inside the wood, then wrap the chain around a high-lift jack or similar jack. Jack the old remaining old post out of the ground with the lag bolt attached to the chain. One should now have a perfect 4x4 cavity where the old post once was in the concrete. Put the new post inside the 4X4 cavity. If it is a little loose then fill the sides of the new post with new dry cement inside the small cavities around the post and add a little water to set it.
Concrete is permeable. If ground is sitting in water, post will be also. If you want to last long time coat it with redgaurd before pouring concrete. Using nails to attach pickets always is a bad idea. Always use deck screws
@Bob's Two Car Garage I have seen a contractor in Alaska use grease on the poles and then wrap it a Black hefty garbage bag. The water table is high on my property especially when it rains and snow melts.
@@BobsTwoCarGarage BTW. Once I remove the old rotted post, can I use that old hole again for a new post? I saw a video with a person saying no, that doesn't make sense as the hole is already there !
You could also use a Sonna tube (idk if they’re actually called that) for the concrete if it’s too wide. They’re commonly used in gravel holes and what not.
Use an eye plate on top of the broken post. Screw in long lag screws. You can either use a post puller, hight lift jack or a metal bar that fits the eye to pull it out
If the fence boards are plumb the post doesn't have to be if you're only replacing the bad post. You put the post in the hole and and attach the horizontal pieces then fill the hole. Rammed earth is a popular way to set the posts. It gets really hard when you compact it. The concrete is against the dirt so there's really no difference in the strength. If you're using concrete just pour it in the hole and don't waste your time mixing in a wheelbarrow unless you're getting paid by the hour. You're not building a bridge. You can cap the hole with concrete with a pyramid top for the water to drain. I like this method for mailboxes. When someone hits it and breaks the post off your pry bar will lift the post out of the ground easily using the concrete top to pry up on.
th-cam.com/video/G6f98daPgFw/w-d-xo.html I’m originally from Austin. You need a jack hammer to drill a hole. You don’t want to replace posts. This is how we did it.
I would never use 4x4 posts i use 2-3/8" metal posts never have to worry bout rotting ie rusting out, as for Douglas fir wood 2x4s etc is ok to use as long as they are primed & painted termites dont like any wood that it primed & painted.
i would prefer to use 3/4" rock and rock dust to set the post, instead of concrete. it will drain better, last longer and be easier to replace. what are your thoughts ?
Never heard of just using rocks. Gravel? Seems like it would wiggle or even wash out . Kind of intrigued about the use of foam bit I don’t want to experiment on my house.
I have a fence the middle of the post has rotten the fence was in two sections the bottom is ok.i had to take the top section of , how do I join the two together again
Don't go back with concrete... concrete is why they rot. Just go back with dirt and tamp it. It will be rock solid... way more than concrete and won't rot due to the concrete creating and underground pool everytime it rains. You'll get even more life out of it if you soak the bottom of the post with used motor oil. Then pour some around the post a couple times a year. It will out live you.
This is rubbish. No reputable fence builder would do this. I would, however suggest replacing wooden post with metal post, especially if termites are a problem. I’ve been replacing my rotted post with metal post as needed, and they show no signs of degradation.
![เกิดใหม่ทั้งทีก็เป็นสไลม์ไปซะแล้ว ซีซั่น 3 - ตอนที่ 69 [ซับไทย]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QuodflInQT8/mqdefault.jpg)
This is the best video for this project. No buying of jacks, jack hammers.
I really enjoyed your video. You are practical and helpful in many ways. Thanks for instilling confidence in this 57 year old to get the job done.
Glad to help
Great technical advice, great conciseness, and great gospel! Thank you.
Thanks and God bless you.
A good time saver for posts that are not rotted and in good shape but have become loose is to buy a peice of 12ft rebar and cut it down and sink a few pieces down alongside the loose post and then use a metal strap to attach the post to the rebar. Its a good method when money is tight and the post itself is salvageable.
Thank you James! A storm in Indiana blew down our fence partially - not a section, but just fell over on one side from the corner and this will definitely help with the repair!!
Glad to help
Nice details from getting air pockets out, bracing posts, shrinkage, to making sure concrete was --above-- ground level, most videos stressed importance of below ground level which will invite rot.
Thanks!
Thank you
Good video, I picked up some tidbits of knowledge. I would have appreciated seeing/learning how you set the post, specifically the method and components used to make it plumb and brace it in place. I enjoy your delivery style, keep up the great work.
Nice video! I just replaced my first rotted wooden fence post. The one thing I did different was use concrete mix specifically made for this purpose; you pour it into the hole around the new post, then add water. It's fully set in less than an hour. I'm sure now that one post has rotted, more are to follow in the next few years. Thanks for the additional tips!
Good to know thanks
Great video and definitely gave me some pointers for my post replacement project I’ve got to tackle soon.
I installed my 1st wooden privacy fence about 10 years ago. A different design than yours - lots more lumber, and one of the 4x4 posts I put in had a lot of filler material. I thought at the time that I wished I didn't use it. Sure enough,10 years later and that post needed replacing - it twisted crooked from weathering at all the places it had the wood filler from the factory. Anyway, I saw a video showing an easy way to remove the post - I drove in a few deck screws, and slowly jacked the post up w/ a scissor car jack! Once it was 90% up, I was able to get it the rest of the way by hand. Of course, if your post is rotten and breaks off at ground level this may not work for you.
Yes, it’s the ground level rotting that makes most of those “easy ways” not an option. Usually it’s not an easy job ; that my story and I’m sticking to it.
Good video. You can buy your fence pickets a few weeks ahead of time and lay them flat in the sun for a few weeks to reduce the shrinking if you want tighter gaps between pickets.
Good idea
Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you for taking the time to put out this video.
Glad to help
Right on Bob. All hard work leads to profit. Great job with the video!
Yep, great proverb for the working man.
Thank you this was very helpful and I loved the Bible quote at the end ! God bless you
Thank YOU
I have replaced post that are rotted at the ground level or just below. Most of the time the rotted part is a small section at ground level and below further into the ground but the post is still good below that. The old 4X4 post section that is still in the concrete in the hole can be removed and leave a perfect 4X4 cavity in the old concrete where the post use to be. To do this use a wood paddle bit with an extension and drill out the bad rotten wood at the top of the bad post still in the ground. When all the rotten wood is drilled out, there will be solid wood left still inside the hole. Use a garage wet/dry shop vacuum and use it to suck all the rotten wood shavings out of the hole cavity. Insert a1/2 inch lag bolt x 4 inches long through a chain link of a three foot piece of chain. However make sure the chain is long enough to attach the other end of the chain to a high-lift jack( or similar jack). Take a socket/ plus a 1/2 inch drive ratchet with an extension that fits the lag bolt size (with chain attached) and screw it into the wood post inside the hole. One may have to drill a pilot hole to get the bolt started. When the bolt is tight inside the wood, then wrap the chain around a high-lift jack or similar jack. Jack the old remaining old post out of the ground with the lag bolt attached to the chain. One should now have a perfect 4x4 cavity where the old post once was in the concrete. Put the new post inside the 4X4 cavity. If it is a little loose then fill the sides of the new post with new dry cement inside the small cavities around the post and add a little water to set it.
You should do a video on that
Your down in SoCal always looking for some good advice🎉🎉🎉
Any time!
Concrete is permeable. If ground is sitting in water, post will be also. If you want to last long time coat it with redgaurd before pouring concrete. Using nails to attach pickets always is a bad idea. Always use deck screws
With redguard they would last FOREVER. I wouldn’t consider nails a “BAD”idea but use screws if you prefer.
@Bob's Two Car Garage I have seen a contractor in Alaska use grease on the poles and then wrap it a Black hefty garbage bag. The water table is high on my property especially when it rains and snow melts.
@@BobsTwoCarGarage BTW. Once I remove the old rotted post, can I use that old hole again for a new post? I saw a video with a person saying no, that doesn't make sense as the hole is already there !
@@celticmulato2609 sure you can. It will probably be bigger so you just need a bit more concrete and get all the old stuff out
@@BobsTwoCarGarage Thank so much for responding! :)
AMEN, Bob!
Good job Bob!
You could also use a Sonna tube (idk if they’re actually called that) for the concrete if it’s too wide. They’re commonly used in gravel holes and what not.
Sonotubes make it look nice at the grade but it’s better to let the concrete fill the rough compacted dirt for most of the post hole.
Good neighbors make good fences.
Use an eye plate on top of the broken post. Screw in long lag screws. You can either use a post puller, hight lift jack or a metal bar that fits the eye to pull it out
I still say there's no easy way...my story...sticking to it.
works great if your wood isn't rotten, I've tried this and pulled out 10 inch lag screws with this method.
Thank you for sharing!
Thanks Bob! Very helpful video!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank You!
You're welcome!
If the fence boards are plumb the post doesn't have to be if you're only replacing the bad post. You put the post in the hole and and attach the horizontal pieces then fill the hole. Rammed earth is a popular way to set the posts. It gets really hard when you compact it. The concrete is against the dirt so there's really no difference in the strength. If you're using concrete just pour it in the hole and don't waste your time mixing in a wheelbarrow unless you're getting paid by the hour. You're not building a bridge. You can cap the hole with concrete with a pyramid top for the water to drain. I like this method for mailboxes. When someone hits it and breaks the post off your pry bar will lift the post out of the ground easily using the concrete top to pry up on.
Some of this is not good advice. You should always plumb your post and “rammed earth” is a really bad idea/method.
Pro tip, use foundation tar Sealer on the part that's in the ground, it will last 3 times longer. Use tape for an even line where seen above ground..
Yep, I've done that if I'm not using treated wood. Good advice.
Lucky you man in canada we got to dig at least 48 inch so a rotten post is much more difficult to get out.
I feel your pain. If possible try abandoning the old post and reposition the new one
Excellent video
Thanks
They make special brackets so you can use galvanized metal post. Much better than wood and will outlast multiple fences.
Really? Got a link?
th-cam.com/video/G6f98daPgFw/w-d-xo.html I’m originally from Austin. You need a jack hammer to drill a hole. You don’t want to replace posts. This is how we did it.
I appreciate you! You just helped this gal out! You rock! 😄
Thanks
I would never use 4x4 posts i use 2-3/8" metal posts never have to worry bout rotting ie rusting out, as for Douglas fir wood 2x4s etc is ok to use as long as they are primed & painted termites dont like any wood that it primed & painted.
Metal posts are a good call. Doug fir is not even if it’s painted
i would prefer to use 3/4" rock and rock dust to set the post, instead of concrete. it will drain better, last longer and be easier to replace. what are your thoughts ?
Never heard of just using rocks. Gravel? Seems like it would wiggle or even wash out . Kind of intrigued about the use of foam bit I don’t want to experiment on my house.
If it is not treated put some plastic around the bottom or seal it.
Hmm, maybe so. A good coat of a product like “Flexseal”?
I used to use creosote but that’s nasty stuff.
We have the same neighbors, all talk no help.
Could put in a new post near the rotted post. Save some time and labor.
Yes , that’s an option assuming you like the positioning.
Thank you fellow believer🙏
My pleasure and God bless you.
I have a fence the middle of the post has rotten the fence was in two sections the bottom is ok.i had to take the top section of , how do I join the two together again
Interesting situation. I think I’d just make a wood sandwich with a 2x4 on both sides.
how hard a rule is the 1/3 of fence post length for the hole - i have 300mm for a 2m post ?
If you have 2 m above ground you need to keep digging. Easy for me to say.
Treated at home Depot or Lowe's.
Yes, Home Depot the brown pressure treated stuff
Don't go back with concrete... concrete is why they rot. Just go back with dirt and tamp it. It will be rock solid... way more than concrete and won't rot due to the concrete creating and underground pool everytime it rains.
You'll get even more life out of it if you soak the bottom of the post with used motor oil. Then pour some around the post a couple times a year. It will out live you.
Concrete is not why they rot, just dirt is bad idea. The motor oil or something similar is a good idea.
This is rubbish. No reputable fence builder would do this. I would, however suggest replacing wooden post with metal post, especially if termites are a problem. I’ve been replacing my rotted post with metal post as needed, and they show no signs of degradation.
Hey Neighbor!
Or don't cut off the top of the post and put a hanging plant hook on it. I have three and they look awesome....or at least I think so. :)
Spoken like a true artist
I don't get wood fences in a cold wet climate. They need to be prestained and maintained ..
Probably a good call
That post is not 60 inches.
Those are 8' posts. Leaving you 6' fence.
Yes, plenty to bury.
Don't use concrete. Just use crushed gravel. Concrete simply holds water in.
No it doesn’t. Treated posts in concrete last a lifetime. Rot only occurs where the post meets the concrete and only if it’s below grade. Trust me.