Great detail. I just bought a 2022 Ram 1500 Limited at 1,000 miles I changed the oil to Amsoil 0W20 Vs 5W20 lower vis at start-up IMO is better. At 5,000 miles I changed the oil again with Amsoil 0W20 But, I added a K&P Engineering oil filter and an oil filter relocation kit to make it easy to change the oil and changed to OEM filter to K&P it is a reusable mesh filter clean with break clean compressed air reinstall and you can clean it anytime you want and only lose 300ML of oil ( 10 ounces) The other great advantage IMO that adds to your research reference of lack of lubrication is the supply of oil from the oil filter, the OEM oil filter cleans to 20 microns the K&P Filter clean to 5 microns with an internal magnet to remove metal but it also offers 7 times more oil flow than OEM and you never need to buy another filter again results: cleaner oil, clean as often as you like, reuse, 7 times more flow than OEM. I used this filter on my 2015 Ram Ecodiesel for 80,000 miles with no issues at all. I also used an Amsoil engine flush with every oil change and changed my oil every 5,000 miles My Father embedded in my head that 3,000 miles are when you change your oil and to change it yourself don't rely on others to be critical for life of your engine. Amsoil says 25,000 Not for me 5,000 not that the oil wouldn't last it might but you need to at your undercarriage check all the components I clean the undercarriage and clear coat frame I traded in my 2015 Ram Longhorn and the dealer gave me $27,000 it looked like new inside and out. Take care of your truck if you want it to last with fewer issues. Great video thank you for posting.
I"m in the market for a used RAM 1500(09-13), and I truly needed to see this video. Thank you for revised explanation(cuz i watched your previous video too). I'll be sure to grab a stethoscope while in the hunt for my new truck. I also plan to use a FULL Synthetic oil once i take ownership. I've used it in every car I've owned to date and have never had any engine issues.
I Changed my oil RELIGEOUSLY every 3000 miles (-crazy I admit). I used Mobile 1 full synthetic, --> 20,000 mile "guaranteed" stuff (or so the container says). The Cam/lifter failed in my 2009 Dodge Ram 2500 (non MDS) at 154k miles. It is NOT because of dirty oil. I've had several 5.7L dodges over the years, never seen anything like this before. Thanks for the video though. Much appreciated.
I owned several vehicles n now still drive 3/4ton chevy, 02 dodge 1500, now 2022 have no issues, I've had from 100k to 350k I've always used factory specs n so far so good thnks stay safe God bless👍
I have a 13 ram express, found the root cause in mine is a lifter failure on cylinder 8. First started with a misfire, then removed the valve covers and had the lifter failure on the intakeside of cylinder 8. So found a shop and am currently in the process of doing a cam swap, hellcat lifters, hardened push rods, ported and polished heads, new valve seats, guides and springs. Getting it tuned as well.
Dammit boy you were like fuxk the stock lifters alv 🤣🤣 same shit I plan on doing I got a 2013 rt with ve Ram intake some heads and x pipe with a magnflow inch exhaust
I don't have an unusually large amount of experience with just the gen3 HEMI, but I've been thinking for some time, this is mostly a lubrication/maintenance issue. My 09 Charger 5.7L has about 148k miles. The only "tick" I get is just for a second or two, at most, on cold start-up, when the car has sat unused for 10-14 days or more. I change my oil & filter myself, as I have on all my Mopars for 55yrs. On all my Mopes, post 2002, I have been using top tier synthetics, and for the last 30yrs only WIX filters. I always change the oil at most at a 5k mile interval. Sometimes, I'll only go 2500 mile interval if it's a (new to me)used car, and I want to make sure I flush the old crud out of the engine thoroughly, and get it on the multiples of 5k miles on the odo, so it's easy to remember when it is coming due for an oil change. I, also, always use FilterMags on the filters to catch all the ferrous particles in the oil before they plug up the filter and damage critical surfaces. Another thing I do is to check the oil at every fuel tank filling. That way I can closely monitor oil level and color, and make sure the coolant level is good. I mean why waste your time just standing there like a statue, when you can be checking this stuff?
couldn't agree more! having good clean oil is the best way to protect any engine. There could be other reasons at play with the Hemi Tick but I think lubrication issues are a big factor. So hopefully everybody maintains there engines as well as you!
@JD Spears Id like to also add full syn mobil 1 every 4-5 thousand and this is on a 08 300c 5.7 with a new built motor 1k miles so far and still have the tick at cold start.
As a follow-up, what little tick I have was bothering me, so I added 1/2 qt of MMO to my engine then ran it up the freeway 10miles and then back. I drained it hot, changed the filter(WIX#57899), & refilled with Castrol full synthetic & 8oz of MMO. The occasional tick I had has slowly disappeared. I also cut the base off of the old filter and you can easily see the ferrous "dust"-like particle "stripes" that the magnets, on the outside of the filter can, pulled from the oil and held them captive onto the inside surface of the filter can. I think if you catch the tick early enough, shorten up the oil change intervals, use good quality oil and filters, use FilterMags or the equivalent on the filter exterior, you just might avoid more serious damage. On a lot of these HEMIs w/ cam & lifter damage, you can see the valvetrain is brown & varnished, like it was run on dirty oil for some time and possibly run hot, too.
I have a 2012 Ram 1500 with the 5.7 hemi. It has ticked since i bought it with 120k. I have 150k on it now. Sounds bad on start up. Quiets down after a few min of running. I push the truck hard. I run Amsoil 5w20. If it blows up i will rebuild it. It has been a great truck for the last 2 years that i have had it. Great explanations good sir.
Honestly sounds like you just have an exhaust manifold leak. A lifter tick usually doesn't go away when the engine warms up. good news is those are pretty common and not that hard to fix.
@@GettysGarage Its not a manifold leak. Both sides were done right before i bought the truck. I think it has to do with the MDS system. If i drive it normally it will make a funky clicking sound on deceleration. If i manually put it in 6th gear and drive like normal it goes away. I think it is the cam phaser hitting the timing cover ever so slightly. But i have no proof of it thus far. Just what i have deduced reading ram forums.
@@seavisions Could be man. But I've also heard of guys driving with ticks for years and having no real issues other then the audible ticking. but like you said without ripping everything apart it can be hard to tell what is really happening.
I have a 2012 with 174k miles had the tick since 140k. I didnt think anything of it until it got so bad my engine started shaking violently when I put my foot on the gas. I changed my cam and lifters, 2 cam lobes were ground down, cylinder 3 cam literally had about 1/4 inch ground off, cylinder 3 lifter I couldn't get to roll at all. So I changed the cam and lifters but my truck has recently started ticking again. I think maybe pushrods?
Currently doing a lifter replacement on driver side of a 08 ram 1500 5.7 i got the lifters with tax for 165$ on partsgeek, and the gaskets and stem seals 223$. Im also doing it myself and avoiding the 100 per hr shop cost@@everthingsports5722
I've always bought used vehicles and have had good luck however...it's scary as heck to think some folks go 14k between oil changes LOL. Great in depth video Alex, appreciate the work you put into this.
It's a little crazy, now I think the oil meter adjusts the oil life based upon engine loads and idle time and so forth but still 14k is a little wild! Thank you sir! appreciate the kind words!
Bought my 2015 ram new from dealer, 6000km between oil changed with only full synthetic oil... tic has started at 190,000 km and goes away after 15 min of driving. Truck is at 250,000 km now and still the same sound. Guess it's getting close to the time of an updated lifter and cam job. I came from a 5.4 cam phasers problem engine to this lol
Nice video with good information. My 16 Ram had cam and lifters done at 5300km before it’s first oil change. Dealer couldn’t tell me why they failed. I had the tick come back this past November but it was the manifolds this time. Extended warranty covered both manifolds, studs and heat shields. Other than these issues it’s been a great truck and man am I happy I got the extended warranty.
Interesting! Okay so I also read that potentially sand and debris from actual the engine block casting could clog up those small oil orifices in your lifters causing very premature lifter and cam failure. So I wonder if this is what happened to you. Silver lining is that Ram warranty does do a very good job!
@@GettysGarage I looked up my build date and my truck was an October 2015 build (2016 model) and it sat on the lot till April of 2016. So I may have had the older design lifters in the engine. I also wonder how many "test drives" the truck had combined with sitting had anything to do with the failure. I use conventional 5w20 oil and I get it changed at 6000km or when the oil life meter says 50% with no problems since.
@@craigpearson1148 well I'm happy your truck is running well and hopefully keeps running well! My truck had 97km on it when I bought it new so I figured mine also had a bunch of test drives lol
I can approve the 5w20 Oil, it's what we use in the middle east. I've owned a challenger 5.7 and a 300 SRT '13 as well as my daily drive '15 Ram 5.7 Laramie. I've a multiple friends garage owners as well as a MOPAR only real life group of friends, so you can only imagine the variety of models we have and worked on. With that being said thro all those years since 2012 til now I've only heard about the Knocks/Lifters in the Internet. Not saying it doesn't exist but I've not seen/hear it from anyone in our MOPAR group and garages, we always change oil/filter on 5-6K km despite the dealers saying every 10K km which we don't follow. The oil weights (If not weather/use specific) and high mileage lead for many issues inside the engine than people can imagine and they'll only see it once they open up that engine. Synthetic Oil if ran over mileage can be more worse cause it will create layers on the internals that restrict the oil lubrication/flow badly which will keep stacking up. Thank you and i appreciate the work and research in this video.
I see people using 5w30 saying the tick is gone have your ever had anyone one use 5w30 if so did it help or did it make the truck worse? Also some people here saying they use 0w20? I had an exhaust leak passenger side 3 broken bolts on the eng manifold fixed it last week no more tick but idk if I'm traumatized or what but I think I hear the tick still lol so now I'm looking into the lifter thing just want to gather as much info on how I can help my truck last longer and not fail me it's my every day you know any advice helps
Lots of information in this video however, hydraulic lifters in general and hydraulic roller lifters specifically have been used by most of the automobile manufacturers in high performance automobile engines for 40 some years. If dirt is holding the lifter check valve open, why does it only seem to be happening in the last ten years or so? I have worked in a management capacity at Tier 1 automotive parts manufacturers for 30 plus years and in my opinion, no OEM is going to change vendors because their customers are not changing their oil at recommended intervals, or not using the recommended oil and/or oil filter. From experience, I know that the OEM will perform a root cause analysis and take steps to eliminate the problem. All of the components in the valve train will be examined as any signs of wear can cause the lifter roller to "float" above the camshaft lobe long enough for the lobe to complete a rotation and collide with the roller again on the next rotation, and cause a tick sound. It is my opinion that the fact that Chrysler changed hydraulic roller lifter vendors strongly suggests that they believe there is a flaw in the component. If it was oil related, the problem would be happening across all OEM's around the globe. Another source for the tick can be found coming from piston skirt slap due to seized connecting rod pins from overheating the engine .
Good vid! Just make me wonder about why the fleet vehicles (cop cars)are failing. Most fleet vehicles get their oil changes at constant intervals for the most part. What you said is correct and im not arguing at all. But i think the low rpm range(500) at idle have to have something to do with failures also. Lower rpm = low oil pressure. Hence the lack of lubrication!
Bless you man! This is the most detailed and most informative video I have seen for this issue. The white board illustrations are awesome and helped me understand what is fully going on mechanically. Thanks 2016 Ram Laramie Limited I use synthetic and have it changed at the dealership every 3,500 miles or so. 55,000 miles so far and no issues. 🙏
@ 4:57 seconds, that report you lifted off a forum is from testing done on my cam, done by a person who sells aftermarket oil. So naturally he hates on all other oils and places his like elixr. Too bad I found several lies in his business claims and honestly felt he re worded some of that letter to make his oil look better. Glad to also see you did more research and not calling the 5.7 a SHOC design or believing that crappy excuse about idling and crank splash. Perhaps you should read my thread on the CF about lifter failures. I can share any photos of the cam lobes with the lifter markings, or failed lifters.
really eh?? It's hard to find decent info on this topic. a lot of he said she said. but what I find interesting is how the hydraulic lifters could become slightly plugged with sludge from burnt or dirty oil and cause an increase in valvetrain lash. obviously causing the lifter to more or less hit the cam lobe rather the ride up it slowly. either way I'm not an engineer. I just find this topic interesting how Chrysler must know there is an issue but yet we hear nothing from them. and who knows maybe their lifter update in 2016 is really the cure. maybe the lifters before that were just shitty lifters. time will tell I guess.
@@GettysGarage All my theories are strictly based on the physical evidence I have seen from three camshafts, and three sets of lifters. The revised lifters, often sold as hellcat lifters (although they are all the same when non MDS) have a different bearing size oddly enough. The actual amount of failed lifter hemis vs production is such it will never see court. It only seems like a horrible thing cause its the internet. And no one comes here to be happy. Just complain lol.
You have a good point , because oil companies wanna make profit so you can see so many cheap brand in market and they are not good . I own Chrysler srt 6.1 first edition 2006 , it has done 320000 km I never had any issues with my engine, I service my car every 6000 to 8000 max Recently I hit something under my car and it started making this noise, I am still diagnosing what could be the cause I tested with stathosope I can hear tiny noise but it seems normal because it way too loud without stathosope, I will see what next
100% correct I covered that pretty in depth on my first video but you are absolutely correct. Idling will deteriorate your oil much faster. And can potentially starve your cam and lifter for oil. Great point!
@@TheLoob321 I hear ya! I have a buddy on the Yukon/Alaskan border and he idles his truck for 20 minutes every morning and has no issues with 200,000km. so I imagine some luck is involved with this issue
Hello Getty Adventures. Good video giving an explanation on probable causes for the HEMI tick. In addition to the probable causes mentioned in this video, another possible cause is the kind if oil filter used. Not all oil filters have the same kind of filtration system. So, the OEM filters are good because that's what came with the vehicle. If someone decides to get an after market oil filter, one brand to consider is Wix. There are couple other after market brands that's good too, but I can't remember the names. So, the kind of oil filter used plays a role. Also, if the right oil is used and it doesn't get changed on time, that will eventually result in the HEMI tick or other issues that's more serious. So, eventually dirt/sludge build up over time due to wrong oil used or the right oil used, but wasn't changed on time. The right oil used, but not changed on time such as two to four weeks late for each oil change and then the wrong kind of oil filter used. With the use of synthetic oil and either the OEM oil filter or premium brand oil filter, the HEMI engines along with other engines in general regardless of automaker will be fine.
I have the 2020 Bighorn with only 38k miles. My truck is the v6 eco boost but also has the tick. I have taken it to RAM 3 times and finally they called today and said its a CAM issue or more specifically what you are describing.
Excellent research and explanation. Thanks. Would not High idle time would fit into your hypothesis on bad oil/wrong weight oil? I would assume at idle the pressure is lower relying slightly more on the viscosity and quality of the oil to maintain lubrication via the check valve. We all know startup and high idle are contributors to engine wear in general.
Yes absolutely! idling also wears down oil much faster then normal driving conditions. and I do still think the theory that at idle you can starve your cam and lifters of oil is still somewhat correct. The dealers always say that fleet vehicles tend to be more prone to these lifter failures because of high idle times so there is no doubt that idling has a roll to play! appreciate the info!
In my opinion, it’s got to do with the oil pressure at idle along with how often people are doing their oil changes I had to do not use the factory light to tell me to change the oil I change my oil every 7000 8000 km a I’ve got over 100,000km on my 2019 ram 5.7 hemi . In my opinion you’re right that is exactly why it happens not changing your oil often enough
Thanks man... I just bought my 2014 Ram 3 months ago... Oil changed the DAY I bought it... Im NOW at 5300 miles and the ticking JUST STARTED... I totally SPACED not setting up an appointment, I have one setup for tomorrow. Im scared to drive it bc I don't want to hurt my new truck. From now on im going to change the oil ALOT SOONER, or at LEAST check oil level every few days
Thanks sir, that makes a lot of sense. But I thinks there is a time that you should swich to 5w30 which is bassically a thicker oil comparing to 5w20. I have a 2013 5.7 dodge charger. After 130k km i realized a drop in my oil pressure using the 5w20 (oil pump is okay) i beleive its normal due the engine clearance, increased over time so at this point i beleive it is a wise to run 5w30. However i have a 5.7 dodge ram 2019 with just 15k km i am using the 5w20 and both oil pressure on my 2013 5.7 with 5w30 and my 2019 5.7 with 5w20 are the same
@@DL101ca where we live in the (Middle East) the weather is always hot, especially in summer it gets up to 50+ Celsius. 5w40 works really fine here, or at least 5w30 the oem 5w20 is the real reason my hemi started ticking before.
My 2017 Ram 1500 5.7 has made a knocking noise since I first bought it new. Only has 25,000 miles. I change the oil every 5,000-7,000 miles and use full synthetic. Have always used basic FRAM Oil filters.
Also after the pkg is installed my customers use different oil brands etc and still no issues 100,200 and 300 plus miles!! No cam or any lifter issues!!!!!!
I change my oil every 3,000 miles or less with semi-synthetic or full synthetic API SN SAE 5W-20 oil, I have not had an issue with the lifters almost 40,000 miles in and I drive her hard! I think your spot on with your research about people thinking they can go 10,000+ miles between oil changes, FCA should probably do away with that oil life meter, it will continue to plague HEMI lifters because of people that think they can literally go by that meter every time with a cheap oil and filter. I get why they put them in these trucks (i.e. EPA, Green Party, energy conservation, etc.) but come on. Also the ZDDP in modern engine oils needs more scrutiny especially in a 90 degree push rod V8 engine. There simply isn’t enough in modern oil.
On 2 week vacation, leaving Chicago to South Texas, 1,500 miles one way. As I entered Dallas, my Ram started making loud noise and I started losing acceleration power. I got off the highway and as I exited the highway , my ram started shaking and turned off. Luckily I was near a shop. Turned out I had 1 broken lifter, 1 damaged lifter and so bad cylinders. It's Wednesday today, truck has been in the shop since Sunday morning. Hopefully by tomorrow they get the new cylinders and new lifters and I can be back on the road by tomorrow evening. 🤞
2019 ram with 60000kms. I change oil every 5000k and use Pennzoil ultra platinum with a nappa gold filter... I feel confident I won't have this problem fingers crossed... great video btw!
I always change my synthetic oil and filter every 6000km.. I have an old 2001 chevy 5.3L.. Changed the oil every 5000km for the first like ten years and then switched over to synthetic oil when it was affordable.. Then changed it every 6000km.. The motor now has 260000km and doesn't burn a drop of oil and can still light up the possy rear end no problem at all.. Frequent oil changes are key to keeping a motor running properly. I plan on changing the synthetic oil every 6k kms in my new Ram 😎👍
Couldn't agree more! I do 6000km on my synthetic oil as well! to be fair though those LS engines are pretty bullet proof engines. guys are getting like 500,000km out of them.
My 07 5.7 HEMI was German Daimler-Chrysler engine. Every part is made in Germany 🇩🇪. Daimler divested from Chrysler in 07. I guess that’s why this problems are happening on 09 + models.
Yea, they didn't fix the issue when Ram went to a new supplier. I have a 2019 and the lifter in cylinder 6 has failed. It's not bad oil, either. I have never used anything but mopar filters, and the best possible full synthetic oil. I changed oil every 5k. I don't idle longer than the length of a red light..... did everything right. Still dead lifters.
My 2022 ram 1500 sport calls for 0w20. People seem to think its for better mileage at the expense of engine wear. Ive been running 5w20 as its super close spec but seeing the theory you suggest of thicker oil clogging/slowing flow has me thinking... what do you think?
I brought in my 2021 ram 1500 5.7, bought it at 30k miles. Both headers cracked at 40k miles. Warranty repair. If they crack again before 80k I'll buy short headers and see if they will swap the crap stock manifolds out. After 80k out of warranty I'll just do it myself. Hoping to avoid hemi tick with frequent oil changes. Tempted to install a higher flow oil pump. Oil pressure drops off during idle sometimes below 30 psi. Not great at a light. You step on the gas with low oil pressure takes a couple seconds for pressure to come back up.
My theory is that the needle bearings are too thin and also that the oil flow in and out of the bearings is too slow. This can lead to oil break down at high temperatures, and when the bearings are that thin, even a little wear can have a big impact. And of course, if one or two needle bearings are missing from a lifter, then that will definitely lead to failure (Don't get your lifters from China).
Per my buddies who are Ram technicians.. it’s not so much the oil life. Every 5000 miles even people who run quality full synthetic and change it every 5000 have the tick. He says people that either use a high moly oil or use a moly additive right after a fresh oil change, helps the oil sufficiently coat the parts. Some people have tried running 5w30 or 0w30 but the high moly or moly additives seems to extend the life of the lifters. At least to 100-120k in most cases. Just what I’ve heard so far. I had the tick.. added the moly additive and it’s gone, for now.
I have had these issues with the 5.7 hemi. I honestly believe not enough pressure and under rated oil pump. I think its a oil pump issue. Stick a hell cat oil pump in there. There are videos and yes so far seems like it works. Time will tell.
Great video! I have a 2011 Ram Crewcab 4x4 w hemi......I baby my truck and had to do the exhaust manifold bolts repair thing about 4 yrs ago on both sides! I just had my oil changed about 1 month ago and now I have a "ticking" on cold start.....after warm up, it goes away! So......1/ could it be possible that again the exhaust manifold bolts are hooped or 2/ am i slowly working towards the lifters failing and the camshaft disintegrating? I am not a mechanic......my truck has 165,000kms on it (yes i am from Canada).....oil is changed every 8000kms but I do not use synthetic but owners manual recommendation (I think 5W20..). Thanks and have a great day!
Good video. I never really believed the mds caused lifter failure. I run pennzoil 5w20 ultra platinum oil with a wix filter in my 2014 ram 1500 sport at it’s a 176000km and change oil out every 8500km. I believe the dirty oil, high idle time or low rpm has a lot to do with it too. Heard about upgrading the oil pumps to hellcat oil pump too but do they actually have higher oil pressure at idle or lower rpm compared to 5.7 oil pump?
I had the same problem 2014 ram 5.7 lifter failure on number 5 cylinder took it apart replace cam lifters and everything else that goes with replacing cam new oil pump but did notice other lifters were going bad and unusual wear on camshaft never took an engine apart before did it myself 5,000 miles later I have no problems fingers crossed I did delete the MDS and went with hellcat lifters from AMS racing
I know this is video is old but there are at least four things wrong with your leaning to a bad oil theory: The first being the lifter lab study. The study wasn't necessarily wrong with their data, but their data was limited...to one study. What effort was placed into sending failed camshafts and lifters to multiple labs and comparing reports to see if they concluded with the same results? Which leads to the second thing and that is the study mentioning a lack of additives. How many people really put additives in their oil, regardless of year or make of vehicle, or engine type? Why would Hemis need an additive over any other engine out there? Thirdly, there have been a number of failures on Hemi engines where the owners changed the oil religiously every 3,000 miles. I for one, developed this failure on my 2010 Ram 1500 and the oil was changed every 3,000 miles religiously using Valvoline 5-20W. And fourth, we did not find this same failure in the 03-08 Hemis. They call for the same viscosity of oil and oil change frequency as the 09 and up Hemis. Why weren't they failing? Were 03-08 Hemi owners doing more frequent oil changes or using a higher grade of oil? I highly doubt it - 03-08 owners were likely following the same change patterns as those people who had 09 on up. So although sludge could be a contributing factor or accelerate wear, I don't see it as being the root cause of the Hemi failure. In my opinion, I really think the root cause falls on lack of lubrication at idle and low RPMs. Chrysler made design changes to the Hemi in 09 which, created several contributing factors: lifter angle, camshaft height, poor clearances, etc. Multiple studies have shown that the failure occurs predominately in engines that have excessive idling times. The engineers failed to foresee what the new changes would do under these circumstances. I think Uncle Tony is on to something about the need for an oil feed system above the camshaft that would drip down onto th lobes and lifters regardless of the idle speeds. Now I will say that the high idle times do increase breakdown of oil since vehicle engine hours are increasing, even when the milage isn't. But again, this by itself, doesn't account for why we didn't see the same thing with people who had long idle times with their 03-08 Hemis. When considering all factors, it points to affects created with the design changes and why Chrysler changed the lifters in 2016.
Appreciate the follow-up. As someone who's about to own a 2019 1500 5.7, learning about what migtht happen later and like any tool, knowing how to use it properly to prolong its life is welcome knowledge. Thanks, and keep up the great work!
5.7 is a bad choice this day n age. Find a 3.0 duramax. Or the GM 5.3 that will average around 20 mpg. The 3.0 will average 26mpg 32 highway. The GM 10 speed transmission is also a huge upgrade. They really got it dialed in. Just bc it has more gears doesn’t make it more complicated. I was very stubborn to believe that myself. The powertrains available today. The 3.0 duramax an absolute joy to drive.. its funny how it took them this long make a half ton truck with an inline 6. It also happens to be turbo diesel.
@@caleblewis3463I don't disagree with your comments. Thank you for sharing your insights. I owed the 5.7 for a bit, but my needs changed and I got rid of the Ram 1500. I liked it for what it was, and having the power compared to a previous V6 powered Honda Odyssey was a clear no brainer - best of all, it actually did better on the highway when cruising around 130 kph (~ 80 mph) as that seemed to be its sweet spot of power and fuel efficiency. I've yet to try the 3.0 Duramax. However, in my neck of the woods, Nova Scotia (Canada) in a small town, diesel mechanics are definitely harder to find, diesel fuel costs more, so there is no way I can justify a diesel right now. Though definitely not the same, the twin turbo V6 in my Transit 250 is just fine. Not good on fuel, but I'll take the utility of a big cargo van right now since the truck argument for what I want/need doesn't justify the spend.
392 Hemi and Hellcat both use 40 grade. They also use the same lifters and pushrods. Therefore it is untrue to say using 40 grade would cause a problem. A 40 has superior film strength to a 20, which also remedies your metal to metal contact issue at the cam to lifter contact. Running a good synthetic 40 grade is a must. Most 20 grade oils dont even meet minimum cST viscosity @ 100 Celsius to be rated a 20 grade. So the oil is even thinner than rated which is compounding on the problem. Even the preciuos pennzoil ultra platinum SRT oil fails to meet the 12.6 rating needed to be rated a 40 grade. It rates 12.2 whichbis technically a 30 grade.
In my 07 ram. 161k miles and never had a problem. Oil change every 3k miles. Mobil 1 synthetic gets in between parts and keeps part clean and lubricated.
Oil itself does NOT break down over time. The oil can go bad over time from added combustion products (sludge), added water (water vapor) from cold engines and short trips, and the breakdown of oil additives (detergents). I have worked in a power plant and the oil used to lubricate the steam turbine bearings was never changed. It was constantly purified to remove water and contaminants. The oil itself would last forever.
That's some pretty good info. 👍 Regular oil intervals are way too high. They need to be between 3,000 and 5,000 miles depending on driving conditions. More City driving change it sooner.
In your first video you were talking NOT to idle the car. But in this video you do not say this anymore as it does seeem to be for an other issue. So is it bad for getting the tick to idle to the car? Like doing a daily remote start session of 15 minutes before going to work. Also you said MDS and non-MDS have the issue, but permanently turning of MDS, changing oil every 10 000 kms (full synthetic 5W30 or 5W20) will prevent this a bit better already?
and one more good thing to do is right before you do your oil change put a half a can of seafoam in drive around for an hour and told the drain plug when the oil is hot clean your engine out nice and sparkly all them little ports in the lifters get cleaned out
I have owned 4 1500's 2011 5.7, 2013 5.7, 2015 3.0 ECO, 2022 5.7Etorque I drove 180,000 miles on the eco no issues But I used a bypass insane diesel filter in combination with a Kand Engineering SS mesh filter because of the extra volume of oil flow due the K and P the engine and the transmission were in sync much better example: your coming to a red light foot on the brake light turns green when I hit the gas it was always in the correct gear and the RPM's matched Im no mechanic but it was smooth only after I gave more volume of oil, the OEM filter was restricting the flow of oil the bypass cleaned the oil so well that Blackstone was amazed. Cleaner oil and more oil volume made a smoother shift. Ram didnt have parts I was ready to buy another 3.0 engine but 1 year wait I sold the 2015 for 27K with 180,000 you could eat off my engine and undercarriage and bought a 2022 Limited Night Edition 5.7 4x4 3:21 oil is important at 1000 miles I changed the engine oil to Amsoil ow20 SS and added a Trasko all in one bypass full flow oil filter at 3000 miles I changed the oil again and every 4000 miles there after at 40,000 I did a Blackstone oil analysis with Trasko, 43,000 miles Mopar MO899, 47,000 HUBB 3" SS filter the results were very clear #1 best was Trasko for particle count #2 HUBB for particle count But immediately I had the same results on the Eco due to more flow the particle was higher than the Trasko but the shifting was great #3 Mopar MO899 the particle count was 45 TIMES HIGHER than Trasko and HUBB think about that the MOPAR MO899 is letting more larger particles at 70 microns 45 times higher at 4 micron 96985.6 If your not filtering your oil and your change intervals are at 8-10,000 miles how could it not fail. I agree with you clean oil is very important every oil is very important at 10K I changed both diff fluids at 30K changed again at 40K replaced trans pan with PPE and used Amsoil Trans fluid, I flush brakes every 25K ATE 200, drained 2 gallons Antifreeze and vacuum filled with Mopar 10 year coolant and will do so every year fluids are the magic sauce to longevity oil analysis proves it. Never trust your dealer they use the wrong oil weight wrong type and you have no clue I also use Amsoil engine flush for every oil change what I save in labor its peace of mind for me. I may be the extreme for maintenance Im 66 this is my last truck Im not paying $85,000 for a truck. Now at 50,000 miles Im changing the NGK plugs next Im not paying $800 Im paying $153 at NGK.com for 16 plugs and changing them myself do your own maintenance to know its done right. Clean your throttle body, check tire air pressure the only thing I pay once for is Alignment balance and rotation. If you want to save money take care of your truck and it will take care of you. Wash your engine with Griots engine wash, Griots leather conditioner Clean leather with Palmolive dish soap 10 parts water 1 part soap I never had a cracked leather seat. I hope this helps someone I tired now going to sleep have a good night.
So I have a tick I know I have an exhaust Manifold leak, have for a while. Will be getting that fixed but this tick is mainly when I'm at a stand still whether it's in park or drive , gets louder as truck heats up. Think it's the lifters or could just be manifold? 2013 ram 1500 hemi
So say that I’ve already replaced my lifters and cam shaft but still have the tick. Always when I push down to accelerate. Could that just be an exhaust leak
Not a professional, could be an exhaust leak, but I had a 2012 RAM 1500 5.7 that had a tick that I had my mechanic look into and he said he felt it was piston slap vs lifters. He informed that he saw trucks with slap last 300k-400K kms. So if you can live with the tick and it is slap then you may take solace in the fact that the truck may still be reliable for a long period.
oil analysis would come into play if it’s bad oil. i’ve been running hemis for years in severe service conditions extreme cold to hot dusty summers. i’ve dropped valves on these engines and traded several off that had ticks lol
Have you discovered the hellcat oil pump yet? Apparently it bolts right into the 5.7. I have 105k km on my 2018 Sport, don't idle the thing a whole lot not sure if I would go that route. Since I'm out of warranty it has crossed my mind however. It's a higher volume oil pump, solves the low oil pressure at idle and low RPM that seems to effect some (not all) gen 3s.
I have not, maybe I'll do some digging and see what I can find. I'm not sure if it's specifically related to oil pressure issues itself but making sure you have high oil pressure is usually a good thing!
@@GettysGarage The motor does not do well with police forces with all that idling. A former chrysler tech for 10 years has a youtube channel, he came up with this higher volume oil pump idea. I was thinking of doing it since I'm off warranty, but labor cost etc, plus I don't idle all that much. I think I'm going to leave it and keep piling the miles on.
I use 5w20 with Lucas oil stabilizer change every 5000km 170000 plus km on runs great so far been thru 3 cold alberta winters as well 2500 driving hrs 2300 idle hrs as well!
Since I bought my 2017 ram new I have been doing 5k km oil changes with full synthetic and oem filters (metal elements vs cardboard lol) thinking I'm being a dork but justifying it by doing it myself compared to the truck suggestion of like 10-14k. I have had the hemi tick twice still even while doing that. Unfortunate.
Okay.. So I may not be able to shed any light on the situation, but I can share my experience with my 2012 1500. The only time I get any "tick" out of the engine is when I'm driving around with the MDS activated. When I put the truck in manual gear selection mode (which for those who don't know, turns off the MDS) and all 8 cylinders activate again, said "tick" goes away completely. I just replaced the broken manifold bolts 2 weeks ago hoping that that was the issue and it helped a ton, but didn't solve the issue. In my case, it IS a problem with the MDS. With 120000 miles on the truck, it's not worth my time or money to fix at this point, but if you have the tick, just try deactivating the MDS and see what happens.
Certainly could be the MDS system in your case. it is a mechanical component and they can fail. I know with my truck when the mds system kicks in it is a very different sound. kind of sounds like subtle misfire and the truck does ride differently. but certainly not a tick.
@@GettysGarage Hmm. Yeah my "tick" isn't metal on metal so I know it's not the infamous Hemi tick. It sounds more like an exhaust leak that goes away when I turn the MDS off. Already replaced the manifold bolts and gaskets. Just put a cat back system in it this week, so I'm pretty sure all the exhaust issues that could pop up are covered. I'm just going to drive it until it blows up, then I'll buy a new one.
Ok so I have a 2016 Ram 1500 Hemi and I've noticed that when I let off the gas going about (starts at 25-30mph) I'll get this tick/rattle, when I get back on the gas it stops... I've noticed that when I get to about that time when it needs an oil change it gets a little louder... I'm guessing it's a lifter correct???
There are lifters available with bronze bushings instead of needle bearings. Would that not be better? Is synthetic oil better for this engine than non-synthetic?
Synthetic oil is by far better. As far as bushings, bronze is soft those needle bearing are hardened steel because they take a beating when the came lobe rolls around at speed. But its an interesting idea
I have a 2010 5.7 dodge big horn and redline 5/20 seem to ease the tick It didn't do it rite away but after my first oil change it almost stopped it completely sooo happy I changed the manifold bolts all of them cam and lifter swap and it came back with in 4 days of the swap I was at the end of my cash flow so I payed the 120.00 dollars for a case and it's the only thing that actually did anything
What do you think about using Sea Foam every other oil change or let’s say every 25,000k miles so that you can help clean the inside of the engine. So you can help prevent any excessive wear overtime. Just add it closer to when your going to change the oil. Only runing it for about 500 miles. Just a thought.
I personally don't have much knowledge or experience with sea foam but I would caution you putting it in your oil. who knows what it could do to the lubrication qualities of an oil. your Crank Shaft spins on a tiny tiny film of oil and any deviation to the oil could actually increase wear on components. that being said, I'm not super experienced or knowledgeable with sea foam so do your own research but that's my two sense.
I think VVT may change the impact on the lifters causing more failures. That is why MDS/NO MDS failures exist. Non VVT engines have less failures in my opinion and research. Pre VVT HEMI engines didn’t suffer from these issues (correct any errors please). Other manufacturer engines with first gen VVT had some issues too. Technological advances always come with some setbacks. Another redesign is required which is extremely expensive.
This is why I'm changing my oil every 5,000 miles (8,000 kilometers) on my Ram 1500. Is it a little overkill? Sure, but it's basically following the "harsh driving conditions" schedule. Would rather overdo it and have the engine last than the opposite.
Enjoyed the video and I think u are spot on regarding the extended oil change intervals. I have a Sierra with AFM (same as your MDS). The lifters fail as well and while I'm no mechanic the general consensus is prolonged oil change intervals. Some guys have lifter failures early and some don't ever have any failure. Needless to say I change my oil earlier rather than later.
I don't know why manufactures insist on extending their oil life intervals lol I also think there may be some luck involved with these issues. some guys run their trucks for 300,000km and have no issues. whereas some guys need cam and lifters replaced before their first oil change!
Until i helped a friend swap out a worn out engine for a reman in a '78 Monti Carlo i had no clue at how bad skimping on oil changes can trash the inside of an engine. I can't see how every oil passage in that engine wasn't plugged. What a catastrophe that was and a good reminder of the importance of keeping your vehicle mechanically up to par.
⚠️THE 5.7 & 6.4 HEMI ENGINES BOTH RUN THE SAME OIL PUMP. THESE 2 ENGINES SUFFER THE SAME LIFTER PROBLEM DUE TO THE INSUFFICIENT *OIL PRESSURE @ LOWER RPMs*⚠️ THE 6.2 HELLCAT OIL PUMP PROVIDES HIGHER OIL PRESSURE @ THE SAME RPM TO THE 5.7 & 6.4. All 2009+ hemi oil pumps are interchangeable regardless of engine liter. I highly recommend upgrading the oil pump along with lifters and cam. Thank me later. -Dad
I have a 2017 Ram 2500 with the 6.4 hemi. I have 58k miles and the lifters and cam need to be replaced. I get regular 6k mile synthetic oil change at the dealership. So the bad oil isn’t the issue for me.
Ok so I started using Bestline oil treatment in my cars. If I buy a RAM it would be new and after seeing this information I'll use full synthetic oil, probably Ams oil with Bestline oil treatment. Also I would see about the drive train warranty length.
I have an 07 5.7 ram 1500 i bought from a family membr. been family owned since new. basically over 300,000 miles on it by first owners business . I bought it out of a field where it had been sitting for nearly two yrs. Talk about a loud knock! i was sweating it till the oil got to the top of motor! lol anyway. engine runs amazing and no tick until yesterday i heard it before it was warmed up. after, it went away again. No was not a exhaust leak. i kjnow what that sounds like. what it is is oil hasnt been changed yet... that is my to do before anyting else saturday project!
those "earlier" 5.7's seem to hold up better in term of lifter failure. it seems like the majority of the lifter failures are in the 4th gen trucks from 09-present. they re-designed the hemi in 09 and for some reason this re-designe has caused lifter issues. Either way good continuous maintenance goes along way and I've heard tons of people have high mileage hemis running just fine!
I have 2015 ram hemi, and i have this ticking sound when starting the engine for around 1 minute then the sound is gone. I could not find any issue with exhaust manifold, could it be from the lifters? Or should i double check the manifolds again?. The sound started 6 months ago, have slightly increased. However car is running perfect with so ticking sound after engine is warmed up
usually when the ticking sound lasts for a short time (like 60 seconds) it's a manifold leak. however, if the manifold is not leaking there is a chance it could be your lifters and after getting warm for a sec their clearances tightened up and the ticking becomes less obvious. Honestly if you are concerned bring the vehicle into the dealer or a trusted mechanic and pay for an hour or two to properly diagnose what's going on. they can probably narrow down what is causing the ticking sound pretty quick.
@@barrybebenek8691 unfortunately I confirmed its not the manifold. The sound started increasing specially at cold start. When the engine is warm it is also slightly audible. Will plan to replace lifters soon and check for cam damage.
great vid. i watched tony as well a while back. i change oil every 10 k. full synthetic on the last two hemis trying to avoid this failure. also i’m keeping idle time to a minimum. i’ve had a 2012,2013,2014,2018 and now a 2021 all hemi 1500’s.
I just traded in my 2017 ram 1500 with 107km and that engine ran strong the whole time. zero issues. I think the Hemi's are good engines with obviously some weak spots with the valve train. other then lifter failures there really isn't any other major consistent issues. and obviously Chrysler deemed them good enough to run the same hemi in the 5th gen trucks
Look up uncle Tony's garage true old mopar guy says in 3rd generation hemi they changed block designs cams up higher lack of oil look it up you are correct .
Not a knowledgeable car/truck guy. So, I'm a little confused. Obviously, stay on top of your oil changes (which I do). For now on, I'll buy the best fully synthetic 5w20 oil to bring it for the mechanic when I need an oil. But, my question is can geting ahead of the problem and replacing the lifters help get ahead of making sure you don't destroy your engine? And if replace the lifters, should I just replace the camshaft as well? My truck is at 128k miles.
I have a 2006 dodge hemi and it's been ticking since day one. I'll try synthetic blend on my next oil change. DO NOT USE ADDITIVES coz your check engine light will come on.
Awesome video , THX for posting . I bought a new 2021 ram with the 5.7 , i will be doing my first oil change at 5000 km , i want to run full synthetic just not sure when to switch from conventional to synthetic , any advice would be appreciated TY Brian
Excellent review as always. I have 2013 ram1500 with 120k km and do my oil change every 5k or 6 mos which ever comes first and so far, no ticking. But im thinking of trading it to 3.0 duramax due to gas prices. Is the 3.0 duramax engine reliable? Can you pls make a review or give me an advice, thank you.
Great detail. I just bought a 2022 Ram 1500 Limited at 1,000 miles I changed the oil to Amsoil 0W20 Vs 5W20 lower vis at start-up IMO is better. At 5,000 miles I changed the oil again with Amsoil 0W20 But, I added a K&P Engineering oil filter and an oil filter relocation kit to make it easy to change the oil and changed to OEM filter to K&P it is a reusable mesh filter clean with break clean compressed air reinstall and you can clean it anytime you want and only lose 300ML of oil ( 10 ounces) The other great advantage IMO that adds to your research reference of lack of lubrication is the supply of oil from the oil filter, the OEM oil filter cleans to 20 microns the K&P Filter clean to 5 microns with an internal magnet to remove metal but it also offers 7 times more oil flow than OEM and you never need to buy another filter again results: cleaner oil, clean as often as you like, reuse, 7 times more flow than OEM. I used this filter on my 2015 Ram Ecodiesel for 80,000 miles with no issues at all. I also used an Amsoil engine flush with every oil change and changed my oil every 5,000 miles My Father embedded in my head that 3,000 miles are when you change your oil and to change it yourself don't rely on others to be critical for life of your engine. Amsoil says 25,000 Not for me 5,000 not that the oil wouldn't last it might but you need to at your undercarriage check all the components I clean the undercarriage and clear coat frame I traded in my 2015 Ram Longhorn and the dealer gave me $27,000 it looked like new inside and out. Take care of your truck if you want it to last with fewer issues. Great video thank you for posting.
How’s that oil consumption with the amsoil, 2 quarts every 1200 miles or so?
Ow20? How is that going ? Any issues I saw a guy saying he puts 5w30 instead of 5w20 and that his trucks has no tick but how is using 0w20 going ?
I"m in the market for a used RAM 1500(09-13), and I truly needed to see this video. Thank you for revised explanation(cuz i watched your previous video too). I'll be sure to grab a stethoscope while in the hunt for my new truck. I also plan to use a FULL Synthetic oil once i take ownership. I've used it in every car I've owned to date and have never had any engine issues.
I was wondering if Archoil 9100 or Motorkote would help as an additive. Full synthetic, additive , and change every 4500 miles...
I Changed my oil RELIGEOUSLY every 3000 miles (-crazy I admit). I used Mobile 1 full synthetic, --> 20,000 mile "guaranteed" stuff (or so the container says). The Cam/lifter failed in my 2009 Dodge Ram 2500 (non MDS) at 154k miles. It is NOT because of dirty oil. I've had several 5.7L dodges over the years, never seen anything like this before. Thanks for the video though. Much appreciated.
I owned several vehicles n now still drive 3/4ton chevy, 02 dodge 1500, now 2022 have no issues, I've had from 100k to 350k I've always used factory specs n so far so good thnks stay safe God bless👍
I have a 13 ram express, found the root cause in mine is a lifter failure on cylinder 8. First started with a misfire, then removed the valve covers and had the lifter failure on the intakeside of cylinder 8. So found a shop and am currently in the process of doing a cam swap, hellcat lifters, hardened push rods, ported and polished heads, new valve seats, guides and springs. Getting it tuned as well.
Dammit boy you were like fuxk the stock lifters alv 🤣🤣 same shit I plan on doing I got a 2013 rt with ve Ram intake some heads and x pipe with a magnflow inch exhaust
I hope they’re not charging you more for the hellcat lifters, they’re the same.
How much all that gon cost ya?
@@victorortega2718 was 9k as a turn key final product with dyno sheets if power output
I don't have an unusually large amount of experience with just the gen3 HEMI, but I've been thinking for some time, this is mostly a lubrication/maintenance issue. My 09 Charger 5.7L has about 148k miles. The only "tick" I get is just for a second or two, at most, on cold start-up, when the car has sat unused for 10-14 days or more. I change my oil & filter myself, as I have on all my Mopars for 55yrs. On all my Mopes, post 2002, I have been using top tier synthetics, and for the last 30yrs only WIX filters. I always change the oil at most at a 5k mile interval. Sometimes, I'll only go 2500 mile interval if it's a (new to me)used car, and I want to make sure I flush the old crud out of the engine thoroughly, and get it on the multiples of 5k miles on the odo, so it's easy to remember when it is coming due for an oil change. I, also, always use FilterMags on the filters to catch all the ferrous particles in the oil before they plug up the filter and damage critical surfaces. Another thing I do is to check the oil at every fuel tank filling. That way I can closely monitor oil level and color, and make sure the coolant level is good. I mean why waste your time just standing there like a statue, when you can be checking this stuff?
couldn't agree more! having good clean oil is the best way to protect any engine. There could be other reasons at play with the Hemi Tick but I think lubrication issues are a big factor. So hopefully everybody maintains there engines as well as you!
@JD Spears what year is your engine?
@JD Spears Id like to also add full syn mobil 1 every 4-5 thousand and this is on a 08 300c 5.7 with a new built motor 1k miles so far and still have the tick at cold start.
As a follow-up, what little tick I have was bothering me, so I added 1/2 qt of MMO to my engine then ran it up the freeway 10miles and then back. I drained it hot, changed the filter(WIX#57899), & refilled with Castrol full synthetic & 8oz of MMO. The occasional tick I had has slowly disappeared. I also cut the base off of the old filter and you can easily see the ferrous "dust"-like particle "stripes" that the magnets, on the outside of the filter can, pulled from the oil and held them captive onto the inside surface of the filter can. I think if you catch the tick early enough, shorten up the oil change intervals, use good quality oil and filters, use FilterMags or the equivalent on the filter exterior, you just might avoid more serious damage.
On a lot of these HEMIs w/ cam & lifter damage, you can see the valvetrain is brown & varnished, like it was run on dirty oil for some time and possibly run hot, too.
I have a 2012 Ram 1500 with the 5.7 hemi. It has ticked since i bought it with 120k. I have 150k on it now. Sounds bad on start up. Quiets down after a few min of running. I push the truck hard. I run Amsoil 5w20. If it blows up i will rebuild it. It has been a great truck for the last 2 years that i have had it. Great explanations good sir.
Honestly sounds like you just have an exhaust manifold leak. A lifter tick usually doesn't go away when the engine warms up. good news is those are pretty common and not that hard to fix.
@@GettysGarage Its not a manifold leak. Both sides were done right before i bought the truck. I think it has to do with the MDS system. If i drive it normally it will make a funky clicking sound on deceleration. If i manually put it in 6th gear and drive like normal it goes away. I think it is the cam phaser hitting the timing cover ever so slightly. But i have no proof of it thus far. Just what i have deduced reading ram forums.
@@seavisions Could be man. But I've also heard of guys driving with ticks for years and having no real issues other then the audible ticking. but like you said without ripping everything apart it can be hard to tell what is really happening.
I have a 2012 with 174k miles had the tick since 140k. I didnt think anything of it until it got so bad my engine started shaking violently when I put my foot on the gas. I changed my cam and lifters, 2 cam lobes were ground down, cylinder 3 cam literally had about 1/4 inch ground off, cylinder 3 lifter I couldn't get to roll at all. So I changed the cam and lifters but my truck has recently started ticking again. I think maybe pushrods?
Thanks for the break down. Got a 5.7 with the tick and getting ready to change the lifters.. your video was awesome at helping to explain the info!
Hello just wondering how much it costed to replace lifters
I’d like to know the cost as well.
What year?
Currently doing a lifter replacement on driver side of a 08 ram 1500 5.7 i got the lifters with tax for 165$ on partsgeek, and the gaskets and stem seals 223$. Im also doing it myself and avoiding the 100 per hr shop cost@@everthingsports5722
I've always bought used vehicles and have had good luck however...it's scary as heck to think some folks go 14k between oil changes LOL. Great in depth video Alex, appreciate the work you put into this.
It's a little crazy, now I think the oil meter adjusts the oil life based upon engine loads and idle time and so forth but still 14k is a little wild! Thank you sir! appreciate the kind words!
Bought my 2015 ram new from dealer, 6000km between oil changed with only full synthetic oil... tic has started at 190,000 km and goes away after 15 min of driving. Truck is at 250,000 km now and still the same sound. Guess it's getting close to the time of an updated lifter and cam job. I came from a 5.4 cam phasers problem engine to this lol
@@troyrgates if the tick goes away when engine warms up, wouldn't that be the exhaust tick not lifters?
@@334trax2 dealer says its piston slap. I'm just glad it isn't the lifters eating the cam but who knows if they really know for sure.
Nice video with good information. My 16 Ram had cam and lifters done at 5300km before it’s first oil change. Dealer couldn’t tell me why they failed. I had the tick come back this past November but it was the manifolds this time. Extended warranty covered both manifolds, studs and heat shields. Other than these issues it’s been a great truck and man am I happy I got the extended warranty.
Interesting! Okay so I also read that potentially sand and debris from actual the engine block casting could clog up those small oil orifices in your lifters causing very premature lifter and cam failure. So I wonder if this is what happened to you. Silver lining is that Ram warranty does do a very good job!
@@GettysGarage I looked up my build date and my truck was an October 2015 build (2016 model) and it sat on the lot till April of 2016. So I may have had the older design lifters in the engine. I also wonder how many "test drives" the truck had combined with sitting had anything to do with the failure. I use conventional 5w20 oil and I get it changed at 6000km or when the oil life meter says 50% with no problems since.
@@craigpearson1148 well I'm happy your truck is running well and hopefully keeps running well! My truck had 97km on it when I bought it new so I figured mine also had a bunch of test drives lol
I can approve the 5w20 Oil, it's what we use in the middle east. I've owned a challenger 5.7 and a 300 SRT '13 as well as my daily drive '15 Ram 5.7 Laramie.
I've a multiple friends garage owners as well as a MOPAR only real life group of friends, so you can only imagine the variety of models we have and worked on. With that being said thro all those years since 2012 til now I've only heard about the Knocks/Lifters in the Internet. Not saying it doesn't exist but I've not seen/hear it from anyone in our MOPAR group and garages, we always change oil/filter on 5-6K km despite the dealers saying every 10K km which we don't follow.
The oil weights (If not weather/use specific) and high mileage lead for many issues inside the engine than people can imagine and they'll only see it once they open up that engine. Synthetic Oil if ran over mileage can be more worse cause it will create layers on the internals that restrict the oil lubrication/flow badly which will keep stacking up.
Thank you and i appreciate the work and research in this video.
I see people using 5w30 saying the tick is gone have your ever had anyone one use 5w30 if so did it help or did it make the truck worse? Also some people here saying they use 0w20? I had an exhaust leak passenger side 3 broken bolts on the eng manifold fixed it last week no more tick but idk if I'm traumatized or what but I think I hear the tick still lol so now I'm looking into the lifter thing just want to gather as much info on how I can help my truck last longer and not fail me it's my every day you know any advice helps
Why isn’t there a recall on these? It seems as if lots of people are experiencing failures.
They would probably go bankrupt from fixing the millions of hemis
not enough safety related failure
I am going to see a Lawyer about a Class Action Lawsuit. Also, am writing the NHST about a recall.
@@ianbennett5922 so did you see a lawyer?
I've already had the manifold gaskets replaced on mine and it was actually done under warranty
Lots of information in this video however, hydraulic lifters in general and hydraulic roller lifters specifically have been used by most of the automobile manufacturers in high performance automobile engines for 40 some years. If dirt is holding the lifter check valve open, why does it only seem to be happening in the last ten years or so? I have worked in a management capacity at Tier 1 automotive parts manufacturers for 30 plus years and in my opinion, no OEM is going to change vendors because their customers are not changing their oil at recommended intervals, or not using the recommended oil and/or oil filter. From experience, I know that the OEM will perform a root cause analysis and take steps to eliminate the problem. All of the components in the valve train will be examined as any signs of wear can cause the lifter roller to "float" above the camshaft lobe long enough for the lobe to complete a rotation and collide with the roller again on the next rotation, and cause a tick sound. It is my opinion that the fact that Chrysler changed hydraulic roller lifter vendors strongly suggests that they believe there is a flaw in the component. If it was oil related, the problem would be happening across all OEM's around the globe. Another source for the tick can be found coming from piston skirt slap due to seized connecting rod pins from overheating the engine .
Good vid! Just make me wonder about why the fleet vehicles (cop cars)are failing. Most fleet vehicles get their oil changes at constant intervals for the most part. What you said is correct and im not arguing at all. But i think the low rpm range(500) at idle have to have something to do with failures also. Lower rpm = low oil pressure. Hence the lack of lubrication!
Bless you man! This is the most detailed and most informative video I have seen for this issue. The white board illustrations are awesome and helped me understand what is fully going on mechanically.
Thanks
2016 Ram Laramie Limited
I use synthetic and have it changed at the dealership every 3,500 miles or so. 55,000 miles so far and no issues. 🙏
Running a good 40 weight will drastically reduce if not eliminate this problem. Also adding a ZDDP oil additive is a must as well.
Mine us 5W 20 so go 5W 40?
ZDDP oil additive??
Been using non big name 5w20 synthetic oil with 5,000 mile changes on my 2015. I'm at 60,000 no noises yet
name brand synthetic vs no name brand synthetic is probably not that different lol. the biggest difference is probably the price!
@ 4:57 seconds, that report you lifted off a forum is from testing done on my cam, done by a person who sells aftermarket oil. So naturally he hates on all other oils and places his like elixr. Too bad I found several lies in his business claims and honestly felt he re worded some of that letter to make his oil look better. Glad to also see you did more research and not calling the 5.7 a SHOC design or believing that crappy excuse about idling and crank splash. Perhaps you should read my thread on the CF about lifter failures. I can share any photos of the cam lobes with the lifter markings, or failed lifters.
really eh?? It's hard to find decent info on this topic. a lot of he said she said. but what I find interesting is how the hydraulic lifters could become slightly plugged with sludge from burnt or dirty oil and cause an increase in valvetrain lash. obviously causing the lifter to more or less hit the cam lobe rather the ride up it slowly. either way I'm not an engineer. I just find this topic interesting how Chrysler must know there is an issue but yet we hear nothing from them.
and who knows maybe their lifter update in 2016 is really the cure. maybe the lifters before that were just shitty lifters. time will tell I guess.
@@GettysGarage All my theories are strictly based on the physical evidence I have seen from three camshafts, and three sets of lifters. The revised lifters, often sold as hellcat lifters (although they are all the same when non MDS) have a different bearing size oddly enough. The actual amount of failed lifter hemis vs production is such it will never see court. It only seems like a horrible thing cause its the internet. And no one comes here to be happy. Just complain lol.
Sounds like you know the truth
You have a good point , because oil companies wanna make profit so you can see so many cheap brand in market and they are not good .
I own Chrysler srt 6.1 first edition 2006 , it has done 320000 km
I never had any issues with my engine, I service my car every 6000 to 8000 max
Recently I hit something under my car and it started making this noise, I am still diagnosing what could be the cause
I tested with stathosope I can hear tiny noise but it seems normal because it way too loud without stathosope, I will see what next
It's not just Mopar, Ford's new 7.3 V8 gasoline Godzilla motor is having the same lifter failure issue with as little as 50K miles on them.
Would it be better to upgrade to aftermarket performance parts when rebuilding the engine?
Good info. Don’t forget about idle hours as well. A lot of the tucks with lifter failure have excessive idle hours on the engine
100% correct I covered that pretty in depth on my first video but you are absolutely correct. Idling will deteriorate your oil much faster. And can potentially starve your cam and lifter for oil. Great point!
I try not to idle, but it's tough when we have -38 celsius days up in Canada
Ya man, I use remote start A LOT in upstate NY bc it’s frigid as shit out and I’m getting older. Whatever, it’s got a 100k mile warranty 🤣
@@TheLoob321 I hear ya! I have a buddy on the Yukon/Alaskan border and he idles his truck for 20 minutes every morning and has no issues with 200,000km. so I imagine some luck is involved with this issue
@@MrAfropuff2 nothing like a good cold start in the morning! wouldn't hurt to warm her up a bit when she's that could!
Hello Getty Adventures. Good video giving an explanation on probable causes for the HEMI tick. In addition to the probable causes mentioned in this video, another possible cause is the kind if oil filter used. Not all oil filters have the same kind of filtration system. So, the OEM filters are good because that's what came with the vehicle. If someone decides to get an after market oil filter, one brand to consider is Wix. There are couple other after market brands that's good too, but I can't remember the names. So, the kind of oil filter used plays a role. Also, if the right oil is used and it doesn't get changed on time, that will eventually result in the HEMI tick or other issues that's more serious. So, eventually dirt/sludge build up over time due to wrong oil used or the right oil used, but wasn't changed on time. The right oil used, but not changed on time such as two to four weeks late for each oil change and then the wrong kind of oil filter used. With the use of synthetic oil and either the OEM oil filter or premium brand oil filter, the HEMI engines along with other engines in general regardless of automaker will be fine.
I have the 2020 Bighorn with only 38k miles. My truck is the v6 eco boost but also has the tick. I have taken it to RAM 3 times and finally they called today and said its a CAM issue or more specifically what you are describing.
Excellent research and explanation. Thanks. Would not High idle time would fit into your hypothesis on bad oil/wrong weight oil? I would assume at idle the pressure is lower relying slightly more on the viscosity and quality of the oil to maintain lubrication via the check valve. We all know startup and high idle are contributors to engine wear in general.
Yes absolutely! idling also wears down oil much faster then normal driving conditions. and I do still think the theory that at idle you can starve your cam and lifters of oil is still somewhat correct. The dealers always say that fleet vehicles tend to be more prone to these lifter failures because of high idle times so there is no doubt that idling has a roll to play! appreciate the info!
In my opinion, it’s got to do with the oil pressure at idle along with how often people are doing their oil changes I had to do not use the factory light to tell me to change the oil I change my oil every 7000 8000 km a I’ve got over 100,000km on my 2019 ram 5.7 hemi . In my opinion you’re right that is exactly why it happens not changing your oil often enough
Thanks man... I just bought my 2014 Ram 3 months ago... Oil changed the DAY I bought it... Im NOW at 5300 miles and the ticking JUST STARTED... I totally SPACED not setting up an appointment, I have one setup for tomorrow. Im scared to drive it bc I don't want to hurt my new truck. From now on im going to change the oil ALOT SOONER, or at LEAST check oil level every few days
Use 5w30 oil
Thanks sir, that makes a lot of sense.
But I thinks there is a time that you should swich to 5w30 which is bassically a thicker oil comparing to 5w20.
I have a 2013 5.7 dodge charger. After 130k km i realized a drop in my oil pressure using the 5w20 (oil pump is okay) i beleive its normal due the engine clearance, increased over time so at this point i beleive it is a wise to run 5w30. However i have a 5.7 dodge ram 2019
with just 15k km i am using the 5w20 and both oil pressure on my 2013 5.7 with 5w30 and my 2019 5.7 with 5w20 are the same
استخدم 5w40 وبتدعيلي
@@AA-eg4fp bakalakadaka 0W40 !!!
@@DL101ca where we live in the (Middle East) the weather is always hot, especially in summer it gets up to 50+ Celsius. 5w40 works really fine here, or at least 5w30 the oem 5w20 is the real reason my hemi started ticking before.
My 2017 Ram 1500 5.7 has made a knocking noise since I first bought it new. Only has 25,000 miles. I change the oil every 5,000-7,000 miles and use full synthetic. Have always used basic FRAM Oil filters.
Also after the pkg is installed my customers use different oil brands etc and still no issues 100,200 and 300 plus miles!! No cam or any lifter issues!!!!!!
I change my oil every 3,000 miles or less with semi-synthetic or full synthetic API SN SAE 5W-20 oil, I have not had an issue with the lifters almost 40,000 miles in and I drive her hard! I think your spot on with your research about people thinking they can go 10,000+ miles between oil changes, FCA should probably do away with that oil life meter, it will continue to plague HEMI lifters because of people that think they can literally go by that meter every time with a cheap oil and filter. I get why they put them in these trucks (i.e. EPA, Green Party, energy conservation, etc.) but come on. Also the ZDDP in modern engine oils needs more scrutiny especially in a 90 degree push rod V8 engine. There simply isn’t enough in modern oil.
On 2 week vacation, leaving Chicago to South Texas, 1,500 miles one way. As I entered Dallas, my Ram started making loud noise and I started losing acceleration power. I got off the highway and as I exited the highway , my ram started shaking and turned off. Luckily I was near a shop. Turned out I had 1 broken lifter, 1 damaged lifter and so bad cylinders. It's Wednesday today, truck has been in the shop since Sunday morning. Hopefully by tomorrow they get the new cylinders and new lifters and I can be back on the road by tomorrow evening. 🤞
2019 ram with 60000kms. I change oil every 5000k and use Pennzoil ultra platinum with a nappa gold filter... I feel confident I won't have this problem fingers crossed... great video btw!
I always change my synthetic oil and filter every 6000km.. I have an old 2001 chevy 5.3L.. Changed the oil every 5000km for the first like ten years and then switched over to synthetic oil when it was affordable.. Then changed it every 6000km.. The motor now has 260000km and doesn't burn a drop of oil and can still light up the possy rear end no problem at all.. Frequent oil changes are key to keeping a motor running properly. I plan on changing the synthetic oil every 6k kms in my new Ram 😎👍
Couldn't agree more! I do 6000km on my synthetic oil as well! to be fair though those LS engines are pretty bullet proof engines. guys are getting like 500,000km out of them.
My 07 5.7 HEMI was German Daimler-Chrysler engine. Every part is made in Germany 🇩🇪. Daimler divested from Chrysler in 07. I guess that’s why this problems are happening on 09 + models.
Yea, they didn't fix the issue when Ram went to a new supplier. I have a 2019 and the lifter in cylinder 6 has failed.
It's not bad oil, either. I have never used anything but mopar filters, and the best possible full synthetic oil. I changed oil every 5k. I don't idle longer than the length of a red light..... did everything right. Still dead lifters.
My 2022 ram 1500 sport calls for 0w20. People seem to think its for better mileage at the expense of engine wear. Ive been running 5w20 as its super close spec but seeing the theory you suggest of thicker oil clogging/slowing flow has me thinking... what do you think?
I brought in my 2021 ram 1500 5.7, bought it at 30k miles. Both headers cracked at 40k miles.
Warranty repair. If they crack again before 80k I'll buy short headers and see if they will swap the crap stock manifolds out. After 80k out of warranty I'll just do it myself.
Hoping to avoid hemi tick with frequent oil changes.
Tempted to install a higher flow oil pump. Oil pressure drops off during idle sometimes below 30 psi. Not great at a light. You step on the gas with low oil pressure takes a couple seconds for pressure to come back up.
My theory is that the needle bearings are too thin and also that the oil flow in and out of the bearings is too slow. This can lead to oil break down at high temperatures, and when the bearings are that thin, even a little wear can have a big impact. And of course, if one or two needle bearings are missing from a lifter, then that will definitely lead to failure (Don't get your lifters from China).
Per my buddies who are Ram technicians.. it’s not so much the oil life. Every 5000 miles even people who run quality full synthetic and change it every 5000 have the tick.
He says people that either use a high moly oil or use a moly additive right after a fresh oil change, helps the oil sufficiently coat the parts. Some people have tried running 5w30 or 0w30 but the high moly or moly additives seems to extend the life of the lifters. At least to 100-120k in most cases. Just what I’ve heard so far. I had the tick.. added the moly additive and it’s gone, for now.
What’s the brand oil you use? High moly oil, never heard of it. I want my tick gone, I need to try this
So what oil additives do you need to make sure your oil has?
I have had these issues with the 5.7 hemi. I honestly believe not enough pressure and under rated oil pump. I think its a oil pump issue. Stick a hell cat oil pump in there. There are videos and yes so far seems like it works. Time will tell.
Great video! I have a 2011 Ram Crewcab 4x4 w hemi......I baby my truck and had to do the exhaust manifold bolts repair thing about 4 yrs ago on both sides! I just had my oil changed about 1 month ago and now I have a "ticking" on cold start.....after warm up, it goes away! So......1/ could it be possible that again the exhaust manifold bolts are hooped or 2/ am i slowly working towards the lifters failing and the camshaft disintegrating? I am not a mechanic......my truck has 165,000kms on it (yes i am from Canada).....oil is changed every 8000kms but I do not use synthetic but owners manual recommendation (I think 5W20..). Thanks and have a great day!
Best video I've seen on this issue.
Thank you! tried to do my homework on this one
Good video. I never really believed the mds caused lifter failure. I run pennzoil 5w20 ultra platinum oil with a wix filter in my 2014 ram 1500 sport at it’s a 176000km and change oil out every 8500km. I believe the dirty oil, high idle time or low rpm has a lot to do with it too. Heard about upgrading the oil pumps to hellcat oil pump too but do they actually have higher oil pressure at idle or lower rpm compared to 5.7 oil pump?
I had the same problem 2014 ram 5.7 lifter failure on number 5 cylinder took it apart replace cam lifters and everything else that goes with replacing cam new oil pump but did notice other lifters were going bad and unusual wear on camshaft never took an engine apart before did it myself 5,000 miles later I have no problems fingers crossed I did delete the MDS and went with hellcat lifters from AMS racing
I know this is video is old but there are at least four things wrong with your leaning to a bad oil theory: The first being the lifter lab study. The study wasn't necessarily wrong with their data, but their data was limited...to one study. What effort was placed into sending failed camshafts and lifters to multiple labs and comparing reports to see if they concluded with the same results? Which leads to the second thing and that is the study mentioning a lack of additives. How many people really put additives in their oil, regardless of year or make of vehicle, or engine type? Why would Hemis need an additive over any other engine out there? Thirdly, there have been a number of failures on Hemi engines where the owners changed the oil religiously every 3,000 miles. I for one, developed this failure on my 2010 Ram 1500 and the oil was changed every 3,000 miles religiously using Valvoline 5-20W. And fourth, we did not find this same failure in the 03-08 Hemis. They call for the same viscosity of oil and oil change frequency as the 09 and up Hemis. Why weren't they failing? Were 03-08 Hemi owners doing more frequent oil changes or using a higher grade of oil? I highly doubt it - 03-08 owners were likely following the same change patterns as those people who had 09 on up. So although sludge could be a contributing factor or accelerate wear, I don't see it as being the root cause of the Hemi failure. In my opinion, I really think the root cause falls on lack of lubrication at idle and low RPMs. Chrysler made design changes to the Hemi in 09 which, created several contributing factors: lifter angle, camshaft height, poor clearances, etc. Multiple studies have shown that the failure occurs predominately in engines that have excessive idling times. The engineers failed to foresee what the new changes would do under these circumstances. I think Uncle Tony is on to something about the need for an oil feed system above the camshaft that would drip down onto th lobes and lifters regardless of the idle speeds. Now I will say that the high idle times do increase breakdown of oil since vehicle engine hours are increasing, even when the milage isn't. But again, this by itself, doesn't account for why we didn't see the same thing with people who had long idle times with their 03-08 Hemis. When considering all factors, it points to affects created with the design changes and why Chrysler changed the lifters in 2016.
Appreciate the follow-up. As someone who's about to own a 2019 1500 5.7, learning about what migtht happen later and like any tool, knowing how to use it properly to prolong its life is welcome knowledge. Thanks, and keep up the great work!
5.7 is a bad choice this day n age. Find a 3.0 duramax. Or the GM 5.3 that will average around 20 mpg. The 3.0 will average 26mpg 32 highway. The GM 10 speed transmission is also a huge upgrade. They really got it dialed in. Just bc it has more gears doesn’t make it more complicated. I was very stubborn to believe that myself. The powertrains available today. The 3.0 duramax an absolute joy to drive.. its funny how it took them this long make a half ton truck with an inline 6. It also happens to be turbo diesel.
@@caleblewis3463I don't disagree with your comments. Thank you for sharing your insights.
I owed the 5.7 for a bit, but my needs changed and I got rid of the Ram 1500. I liked it for what it was, and having the power compared to a previous V6 powered Honda Odyssey was a clear no brainer - best of all, it actually did better on the highway when cruising around 130 kph (~ 80 mph) as that seemed to be its sweet spot of power and fuel efficiency.
I've yet to try the 3.0 Duramax. However, in my neck of the woods, Nova Scotia (Canada) in a small town, diesel mechanics are definitely harder to find, diesel fuel costs more, so there is no way I can justify a diesel right now.
Though definitely not the same, the twin turbo V6 in my Transit 250 is just fine. Not good on fuel, but I'll take the utility of a big cargo van right now since the truck argument for what I want/need doesn't justify the spend.
392 Hemi and Hellcat both use 40 grade. They also use the same lifters and pushrods. Therefore it is untrue to say using 40 grade would cause a problem. A 40 has superior film strength to a 20, which also remedies your metal to metal contact issue at the cam to lifter contact. Running a good synthetic 40 grade is a must. Most 20 grade oils dont even meet minimum cST viscosity @ 100 Celsius to be rated a 20 grade. So the oil is even thinner than rated which is compounding on the problem. Even the preciuos pennzoil ultra platinum SRT oil fails to meet the 12.6 rating needed to be rated a 40 grade. It rates 12.2 whichbis technically a 30 grade.
In my 07 ram. 161k miles and never had a problem. Oil change every 3k miles. Mobil 1 synthetic gets in between parts and keeps part clean and lubricated.
Is there something one could use to help clean those lifter orifices? Something to run through the oil?
Oil itself does NOT break down over time. The oil can go bad over time from added combustion products (sludge), added water (water vapor) from cold engines and short trips, and the breakdown of oil additives (detergents). I have worked in a power plant and the oil used to lubricate the steam turbine bearings was never changed. It was constantly purified to remove water and contaminants. The oil itself would last forever.
That's some pretty good info. 👍 Regular oil intervals are way too high. They need to be between 3,000 and 5,000 miles depending on driving conditions. More City driving change it sooner.
Exactly right.
In your first video you were talking NOT to idle the car. But in this video you do not say this anymore as it does seeem to be for an other issue. So is it bad for getting the tick to idle to the car? Like doing a daily remote start session of 15 minutes before going to work. Also you said MDS and non-MDS have the issue, but permanently turning of MDS, changing oil every 10 000 kms (full synthetic 5W30 or 5W20) will prevent this a bit better already?
and one more good thing to do is right before you do your oil change put a half a can of seafoam in drive around for an hour and told the drain plug when the oil is hot clean your engine out nice and sparkly all them little ports in the lifters get cleaned out
My truck is a 2015 Laramie Semi. So my take from this video is to use a synthetic oil and a good filter? Any special brand of oil?
I use Mobile 1. It's a decent synthetic oil that's not going to break the bank
I have owned 4 1500's 2011 5.7, 2013 5.7, 2015 3.0 ECO, 2022 5.7Etorque I drove 180,000 miles on the eco no issues But I used a bypass insane diesel filter in combination with a Kand Engineering SS mesh filter because of the extra volume of oil flow due the K and P the engine and the transmission were in sync much better example: your coming to a red light foot on the brake light turns green when I hit the gas it was always in the correct gear and the RPM's matched Im no mechanic but it was smooth only after I gave more volume of oil, the OEM filter was restricting the flow of oil the bypass cleaned the oil so well that Blackstone was amazed. Cleaner oil and more oil volume made a smoother shift. Ram didnt have parts I was ready to buy another 3.0 engine but 1 year wait I sold the 2015 for 27K with 180,000 you could eat off my engine and undercarriage and bought a 2022 Limited Night Edition 5.7 4x4 3:21 oil is important at 1000 miles I changed the engine oil to Amsoil ow20 SS and added a Trasko all in one bypass full flow oil filter at 3000 miles I changed the oil again and every 4000 miles there after at 40,000 I did a Blackstone oil analysis with Trasko, 43,000 miles Mopar MO899, 47,000 HUBB 3" SS filter the results were very clear #1 best was Trasko for particle count #2 HUBB for particle count But immediately I had the same results on the Eco due to more flow the particle was higher than the Trasko but the shifting was great #3 Mopar MO899 the particle count was 45 TIMES HIGHER than Trasko and HUBB think about that the MOPAR MO899 is letting more larger particles at 70 microns 45 times higher at 4 micron 96985.6 If your not filtering your oil and your change intervals are at 8-10,000 miles how could it not fail. I agree with you clean oil is very important every oil is very important at 10K I changed both diff fluids at 30K changed again at 40K replaced trans pan with PPE and used Amsoil Trans fluid, I flush brakes every 25K ATE 200, drained 2 gallons Antifreeze and vacuum filled with Mopar 10 year coolant and will do so every year fluids are the magic sauce to longevity oil analysis proves it. Never trust your dealer they use the wrong oil weight wrong type and you have no clue I also use Amsoil engine flush for every oil change what I save in labor its peace of mind for me. I may be the extreme for maintenance Im 66 this is my last truck Im not paying $85,000 for a truck. Now at 50,000 miles Im changing the NGK plugs next Im not paying $800 Im paying $153 at NGK.com for 16 plugs and changing them myself do your own maintenance to know its done right. Clean your throttle body, check tire air pressure the only thing I pay once for is Alignment balance and rotation. If you want to save money take care of your truck and it will take care of you. Wash your engine with Griots engine wash, Griots leather conditioner Clean leather with Palmolive dish soap 10 parts water 1 part soap I never had a cracked leather seat. I hope this helps someone I tired now going to sleep have a good night.
So I have a tick I know I have an exhaust Manifold leak, have for a while. Will be getting that fixed but this tick is mainly when I'm at a stand still whether it's in park or drive , gets louder as truck heats up. Think it's the lifters or could just be manifold? 2013 ram 1500 hemi
So say that I’ve already replaced my lifters and cam shaft but still have the tick. Always when I push down to accelerate. Could that just be an exhaust leak
Not a professional, could be an exhaust leak, but I had a 2012 RAM 1500 5.7 that had a tick that I had my mechanic look into and he said he felt it was piston slap vs lifters. He informed that he saw trucks with slap last 300k-400K kms. So if you can live with the tick and it is slap then you may take solace in the fact that the truck may still be reliable for a long period.
oil analysis would come into play if it’s bad oil. i’ve been running hemis for years in severe service conditions extreme cold to hot dusty summers. i’ve dropped valves on these engines and traded several off that had ticks lol
Have you discovered the hellcat oil pump yet? Apparently it bolts right into the 5.7. I have 105k km on my 2018 Sport, don't idle the thing a whole lot not sure if I would go that route. Since I'm out of warranty it has crossed my mind however. It's a higher volume oil pump, solves the low oil pressure at idle and low RPM that seems to effect some (not all) gen 3s.
I have not, maybe I'll do some digging and see what I can find. I'm not sure if it's specifically related to oil pressure issues itself but making sure you have high oil pressure is usually a good thing!
@@GettysGarage The motor does not do well with police forces with all that idling. A former chrysler tech for 10 years has a youtube channel, he came up with this higher volume oil pump idea. I was thinking of doing it since I'm off warranty, but labor cost etc, plus I don't idle all that much. I think I'm going to leave it and keep piling the miles on.
@@GettysGarage th-cam.com/video/jkNOXWGXADM/w-d-xo.html
I use 5w20 with Lucas oil stabilizer change every 5000km 170000 plus km on runs great so far been thru 3 cold alberta winters as well 2500 driving hrs 2300 idle hrs as well!
Since I bought my 2017 ram new I have been doing 5k km oil changes with full synthetic and oem filters (metal elements vs cardboard lol) thinking I'm being a dork but justifying it by doing it myself compared to the truck suggestion of like 10-14k. I have had the hemi tick twice still even while doing that. Unfortunate.
I've seen videos where some people have replaced the original oil pump with a hell cat oil pump.....What do you think?
I always use 5 20 full synthetic moblie 1, on my 2012 ram 1500 5.7 ,change oil every 6000 miles and still had lifter failure at 143000 miles
Does anybody know at how many engine hours have to be on a Ram before this hemi tick starts?
Okay.. So I may not be able to shed any light on the situation, but I can share my experience with my 2012 1500. The only time I get any "tick" out of the engine is when I'm driving around with the MDS activated. When I put the truck in manual gear selection mode (which for those who don't know, turns off the MDS) and all 8 cylinders activate again, said "tick" goes away completely. I just replaced the broken manifold bolts 2 weeks ago hoping that that was the issue and it helped a ton, but didn't solve the issue. In my case, it IS a problem with the MDS. With 120000 miles on the truck, it's not worth my time or money to fix at this point, but if you have the tick, just try deactivating the MDS and see what happens.
Certainly could be the MDS system in your case. it is a mechanical component and they can fail. I know with my truck when the mds system kicks in it is a very different sound. kind of sounds like subtle misfire and the truck does ride differently. but certainly not a tick.
@@GettysGarage Hmm. Yeah my "tick" isn't metal on metal so I know it's not the infamous Hemi tick. It sounds more like an exhaust leak that goes away when I turn the MDS off. Already replaced the manifold bolts and gaskets. Just put a cat back system in it this week, so I'm pretty sure all the exhaust issues that could pop up are covered. I'm just going to drive it until it blows up, then I'll buy a new one.
Ok so I have a 2016 Ram 1500 Hemi and I've noticed that when I let off the gas going about (starts at 25-30mph) I'll get this tick/rattle, when I get back on the gas it stops... I've noticed that when I get to about that time when it needs an oil change it gets a little louder... I'm guessing it's a lifter correct???
potentially but a lifter tick should be constant for the most part.
Just got a 19 Ram 1500, Gen 5 yesterday. Hopefully the manifold, lifters, and half shafts stay together for me. 🤷🏼♂️
There are lifters available with bronze bushings instead of needle bearings. Would that not be better? Is synthetic oil better for this engine than non-synthetic?
Synthetic oil is by far better. As far as bushings, bronze is soft those needle bearing are hardened steel because they take a beating when the came lobe rolls around at speed. But its an interesting idea
I have a 2010 5.7 dodge big horn and redline 5/20 seem to ease the tick It didn't do it rite away but after my first oil change it almost stopped it completely sooo happy I changed the manifold bolts all of them cam and lifter swap and it came back with in 4 days of the swap I was at the end of my cash flow so I payed the 120.00 dollars for a case and it's the only thing that actually did anything
What do you think about using Sea Foam every other oil change or let’s say every 25,000k miles so that you can help clean the inside of the engine. So you can help prevent any excessive wear overtime. Just add it closer to when your going to change the oil. Only runing it for about 500 miles. Just a thought.
I personally don't have much knowledge or experience with sea foam but I would caution you putting it in your oil. who knows what it could do to the lubrication qualities of an oil. your Crank Shaft spins on a tiny tiny film of oil and any deviation to the oil could actually increase wear on components.
that being said, I'm not super experienced or knowledgeable with sea foam so do your own research but that's my two sense.
I think VVT may change the impact on the lifters causing more failures. That is why MDS/NO MDS failures exist. Non VVT engines have less failures in my opinion and research. Pre VVT HEMI engines didn’t suffer from these issues (correct any errors please). Other manufacturer engines with first gen VVT had some issues too. Technological advances always come with some setbacks. Another redesign is required which is extremely expensive.
This is why I'm changing my oil every 5,000 miles (8,000 kilometers) on my Ram 1500. Is it a little overkill? Sure, but it's basically following the "harsh driving conditions" schedule. Would rather overdo it and have the engine last than the opposite.
Enjoyed the video and I think u are spot on regarding the extended oil change intervals. I have a Sierra with AFM (same as your MDS). The lifters fail as well and while I'm no mechanic the general consensus is prolonged oil change intervals. Some guys have lifter failures early and some don't ever have any failure. Needless to say I change my oil earlier rather than later.
I don't know why manufactures insist on extending their oil life intervals lol I also think there may be some luck involved with these issues. some guys run their trucks for 300,000km and have no issues. whereas some guys need cam and lifters replaced before their first oil change!
Until i helped a friend swap out a worn out engine for a reman in a '78 Monti Carlo i had no clue at how bad skimping on oil changes can trash the inside of an engine. I can't see how every oil passage in that engine wasn't plugged. What a catastrophe that was and a good reminder of the importance of keeping your vehicle mechanically up to par.
@@gregorytimmons4777 100% agree. Oil changes are the cheapest and easiest thing to help improve longevity.
⚠️THE 5.7 & 6.4 HEMI ENGINES BOTH RUN THE SAME OIL PUMP. THESE 2 ENGINES SUFFER THE SAME LIFTER PROBLEM DUE TO THE INSUFFICIENT
*OIL PRESSURE @ LOWER RPMs*⚠️
THE 6.2 HELLCAT OIL PUMP PROVIDES HIGHER OIL PRESSURE @ THE SAME RPM TO THE 5.7 & 6.4.
All 2009+ hemi oil pumps are interchangeable regardless of engine liter.
I highly recommend upgrading the oil pump along with lifters and cam.
Thank me later.
-Dad
Thanks dad! Lol a couple people mentioned this and it makes sense.
I have a 2017 Ram 2500 with the 6.4 hemi. I have 58k miles and the lifters and cam need to be replaced. I get regular 6k mile synthetic oil change at the dealership. So the bad oil isn’t the issue for me.
Ok so I started using Bestline oil treatment in my cars. If I buy a RAM it would be new and after seeing this information I'll use full synthetic oil, probably Ams oil with Bestline oil treatment.
Also I would see about the drive train warranty length.
Would z max help with lubrication?
I have an 07 5.7 ram 1500 i bought from a family membr. been family owned since new. basically over 300,000 miles on it by first owners business . I bought it out of a field where it had been sitting for nearly two yrs. Talk about a loud knock! i was sweating it till the oil got to the top of motor! lol anyway. engine runs amazing and no tick until yesterday i heard it before it was warmed up. after, it went away again. No was not a exhaust leak. i kjnow what that sounds like. what it is is oil hasnt been changed yet... that is my to do before anyting else saturday project!
those "earlier" 5.7's seem to hold up better in term of lifter failure. it seems like the majority of the lifter failures are in the 4th gen trucks from 09-present. they re-designed the hemi in 09 and for some reason this re-designe has caused lifter issues. Either way good continuous maintenance goes along way and I've heard tons of people have high mileage hemis running just fine!
The 2020 manual says to use Penzoil 5w20. We always use that kind even in previous years.
ya any decent synthetic 5w20 oil is going to be fine.
I have 2015 ram hemi, and i have this ticking sound when starting the engine for around 1 minute then the sound is gone. I could not find any issue with exhaust manifold, could it be from the lifters? Or should i double check the manifolds again?.
The sound started 6 months ago, have slightly increased. However car is running perfect with so ticking sound after engine is warmed up
Had the same problem on mine and had to replace cam and lifters!
usually when the ticking sound lasts for a short time (like 60 seconds) it's a manifold leak. however, if the manifold is not leaking there is a chance it could be your lifters and after getting warm for a sec their clearances tightened up and the ticking becomes less obvious.
Honestly if you are concerned bring the vehicle into the dealer or a trusted mechanic and pay for an hour or two to properly diagnose what's going on. they can probably narrow down what is causing the ticking sound pretty quick.
@@lalo27ish that sucks, how many Km's on the engine?
Exact issue on my ‘14 recently. Shortly after starting, the tick goes away. Would like to know how things progress for you Ahmad. 🇨🇦
@@barrybebenek8691 unfortunately I confirmed its not the manifold. The sound started increasing specially at cold start. When the engine is warm it is also slightly audible.
Will plan to replace lifters soon and check for cam damage.
and how much does this repair runs in canada i have been trying to find out so i can fix mine.
great vid. i watched tony as well a while back. i change oil every 10 k. full synthetic on the last two hemis trying to avoid this failure. also i’m keeping idle time to a minimum. i’ve had a 2012,2013,2014,2018 and now a 2021 all hemi 1500’s.
I just traded in my 2017 ram 1500 with 107km and that engine ran strong the whole time. zero issues. I think the Hemi's are good engines with obviously some weak spots with the valve train. other then lifter failures there really isn't any other major consistent issues. and obviously Chrysler deemed them good enough to run the same hemi in the 5th gen trucks
Look up uncle Tony's garage true old mopar guy says in 3rd generation hemi they changed block designs cams up higher lack of oil look it up you are correct .
Love Uncle Tony's garage, he's got some great info
Not a knowledgeable car/truck guy. So, I'm a little confused. Obviously, stay on top of your oil changes (which I do). For now on, I'll buy the best fully synthetic 5w20 oil to bring it for the mechanic when I need an oil. But, my question is can geting ahead of the problem and replacing the lifters help get ahead of making sure you don't destroy your engine? And if replace the lifters, should I just replace the camshaft as well? My truck is at 128k miles.
Great job man! Love the details in this video. Helps me understand the tick better
I have a 2006 dodge hemi and it's been ticking since day one. I'll try synthetic blend on my next oil change. DO NOT USE ADDITIVES coz your check engine light will come on.
Are Hemi ticks the ones that carry lime disease? 🤔
Yes be very carful when outside in tall grass!
How come it only happens to the back lifters? The others lifters get the same oil as well.
Just watched this video - Can we assume that this also applies to the 6.4l?
Awesome video , THX for posting .
I bought a new 2021 ram with the 5.7 , i will be doing my first oil change at 5000 km , i want to run full synthetic just not sure when to switch from conventional to synthetic , any advice would be appreciated TY Brian
On semi truck diesel engines owners will put a second oil filter to increase oil life and thus engine life.
Hey bro, I use 20/50 oils, I hope I'm doing good?
Would synthetic oil help and to change your oil regularly
What year is your truck, I’m looking at a very clean 2013 truck with 172k on it ,should I be afraid of this truck,and are all 5.7 mds
Excellent review as always. I have 2013 ram1500 with 120k km and do my oil change every 5k or 6 mos which ever comes first and so far, no ticking. But im thinking of trading it to 3.0 duramax due to gas prices. Is the 3.0 duramax engine reliable? Can you pls make a review or give me an advice, thank you.
I'll have to make a review on the 3.0 Duramax. a lot of folks are asking about it.
Would running a 0 weight oil help or hurt?
What year is your truck? And does it tick?