The Valvoline Advanced 5W30 Full Synthetic I put in at 4,500ish miles took away ALL of the valvetrain clatter, ticking, and rattling. Might as well go back with the same oil now at 10,500 miles. #ram1500 #trucks
a higher capacity oil pump is what you need. that is the COMPLETE fix for hemi engines 2009 and up. oil weight doesnt matter. oil capacity does. theres just not enough pressure to oil the cam and lifters at idle and at low rpm speeds. a higher capacity oil pump increases pressure AND amount of oil to cover the top end. thats the only fix for these engines to eliminate the hemi tick
I put this as a comment as well and saw yours a few minutes after. It's great to see someone else that understand and knows the solutions as well. People still need to tune out the oil pressure check light that comes on but what you and are are saying is not super known yet. 🎉
@@BryanEnsign Melling high volume pumps come with a factory standard spring accessory that you can install prior to putting in the pump that will keep the code from triggering.
@@Mini_Rig Melling and Hell Cat oilpump are essentially the same 12% more volume at idle you want volume not pressure. Thicker oil causes higher pressure, but doesn't mean more oil. You want volume no oil pump will give you higher pressure that is determined by the thickness of the oil. Think of it like this. Your body does not need higher blood pressure, because that is hard on your arteries but a thinner blood which means more oxygenated cells are passing through and around back to the lungs more quickly. Which means more oxygen and less carbondioxide in your blood. More efficient.
When I had the cam phazers replaced in my 09 f150, the mechanic told me to start using 5w-30, i asked him why. He told me that oil's have to perform with a hydraulic action as well as a lubricant and a thicker oil eliminates this problem in in lifters and tensioners. I also run a very good friction modifier in it as well, this was five years ago and it runs soo smooth and quiet.
My 09 has 303,700 miles on it, always ran 5w20 conventional quaker state in it. Changed the oil religiously at 5000 miles. It does tick on start up but still has power and runs good.
Yeah man, you can never change the oil too often. These high mileage factory recommended oil changes are ridiculous, completely designed to f'ck your engine.
Hemi tick. There is a cast webbing under the cam, that runs the full length of the cam. Idle is what kills the lifter. Throws oil on the web and not the cam. Co-worker ran rotella 15w40 for over 300,000 on his 5.7l hemi ram. Pulled motor for different reason. I believe he said it still had the Hash marks on cylinder wals, clean cam. And No tick.
The modern hemis are not splash lubricated at the cam. Oil flows directly to the cam and lifters. I do agree that extended idle times are bad for them, because of the low oil pressure that occurs at full operating temps with worn out thin 5w20 oil. How would the MDS lifters operate just on splash without direct oil pressure. Don't go past 5k miles with oil changes, run 5w30, and keep idle times to a minimum (especially in the summer) and a stock 5.7 hemi wil run forever.
Idling is what kills these hemis. (Low oil pressure on idle) like has been previously stated they have the melling oil pump. And also the hellcat pump. But they say the melling is the way to go. 2013 with 156k on mine. Still no issues minus normal wear an tear.. thinking bout buying the meling pump soon.
I run 5w30 synthetic in mine with Lucas pure synthetic in the summer, and 5w20 with Lucas pure synthetic in the winter. No issues, and little to no valvetrain noise.
@@aidenrybchuk8098 I see a difference in oil pressure and engine oil temperature compared to 5w20. The oil stays temp stays consistently above 212 degrees, and doesn't fluctuate like the 5w20 does. An oil temp 212+ leads to a longer engine life, and more efficient operation.
I did whatcha said, did my research and found like you said. They lied about their recommendations. I did the 5w30 oil change and now runs like an absolute badass. What I thought was an exhaust leak was actually the infamous Hemi Tick!
Don’t know how algorithms brought me here but I’m enjoying the comments. With a little research and oil sampling anyone can find out how long you can run your oil. This isn’t the 60’s anymore. With oils being designed to match extended service drain intervals, I have no idea how people are discussing 2 and 3 thousand mile oil changes, BUT thankfully in America everyone can do whatever they want.
It's generally an additive package vs thicker TBN to make a 5w ( both are 5 not talking about an insane Ow which the scat pack specifies or void of warranty 0w-40 which is HARD to source and in both cases you also have to male sure they are Mopar spec oil for warranty retention ask me how I know )...nothing wrong with running a 5w30 go have better protection when at operating temp but cold starts would sound similar..I run 5w-30 in my 21 Limited Ram as well.... I don't think you should tell people that is what cured your truck it was on your first oil change and that along could have settled it down regardless of viscosity ( though no harm in running 5w-30)... Also as you stated several years of owners manuals had the owner running which oils since 2009, well those engines ticked and failed as well even when running THAT years recommendation lifter failure isn't new to this engine at all....its a design flaw which is why ALL the Mopar tech say one of the huge variables is idle time on engine not viscosity ran... Also in my research most lifters fail if they are gonna from 45k-75k you gonna need about 120k to feel safe ( seems like if they make it 100k they make it 200k lol damn)... There WAS a major change to this engine since 2009, iirc it was 2017 they went to a lifter with a much larger captured needle bearing on the wheel.... Lots of assumptions and misinformation, but imho your dead right they push 0w and 5w20 for CAFE compliance, where these big truck engines often hauling loads could benefit from a 5w30 and later a 5w40 ( same cold performance more film strength when warm )... However let's not let dodge of the hook for their design flaw here, my wife's ride turbo gas engine is specced at 0w20 running much warmer oil temps than my Ram down the road, with a much more complex system and Jesus she extends her oil change ( I've tried everything down to taking it myself ), a few weeks ago I was Laying under her ride in a cold and hot start scenario....so quite so tight that engine has another 100k in it easy..... Sad thing is dodge bolts this engine real tight, you add a hellcat oil pump and no more lifter issues, it doesn't have enough oil pressure at idle ( which raising viscosity can help with) for the way the black and MDS is designed... These engines would go 300k if not for the valve train....sad...but even at that if dodge stood behind them could give em a pass for it.... I know a guy personally that trucks to dodge dealerships there are piles of cams, lifters and heads hauled off...piles and piles of lifter cam failures... Best of luck to everyone and myself....lol
Be warned, the wrong oil viscosity can cause VVT issues and throw engine codes, and when that happens, the computer goes into “limp home” mode with no power until you replace the oil with the proper weight and reset the code. The code will fire on the second ignition cycle like clockwork.
I got p0303 code have a slight tick. Ran 5w30 in the summer and check engine light came on at end of September. Switched to 5w20 with some marvel mystery oil and it's quieted down by check engine light still on.
Use what is recommended for the engine. I hate when TH-cam people like this spread this BS like putting heavier oil in your engine. You use what is recommended and what the engine was designed for, period.
I just swith hed from 5w-20 to 5w-30. Oil pressure got on freeway the same at 51 PSI. MDS wirks just fine. I have some Euro 5w-40 I will try next time. Ours had 59K mikes, much of that Interstates/Freeways. Thanks for the video.
I have a 2016 Ram 1500, 54k miles. I change my oil every 5k miles with Pennzoil Plat synth, I have a very small tick and always had. I do think 3k miles is way too excessive, and mine has MDS (some Chrysler techs have suggested that MDS has nothing to do with the tick). Either way, I will continue to run 5W-20 until new symptoms occur. Oil is pricey! (Plus grinding a cam will give me the excuse to put a performance one in!)
I have an old Chevy HHR with 200,000 miles that I spend the least that I can maintaining it. The lower-cost 5w30 oils on the shelf seem to be out of stock more than than not, so this is an area that I have come to terms with by spending a bit more on oil. Since it uses a quart of oil every month, I’m not spending $11.99 a quart on Royal Purple.
I never heard my hemi tick. Just started running bad. Very little power. Lifter collapsed chewed up camshaft. 2012 Dodge Ram 96k. Purchased new oil changes every 3k. Never abused. Daily driver mostly highway. I believe that the MDS did this to my engine. I had it deleted. Full time 8 now.
And the argument over prolonged idle times. So also when I made the switch, I was running mid to high 20s psi at 600rpm. Now it runs religiously at 41psi at 600rpm. So it’s getting very liberal amounts of oil at all times! Extremely happy I made the switch!
The first oil change i did on my 2024 at 764 miles. (Getting metal out) that sh*t went everywhere. Litterally like water. I out full syn 0w20 back in and at idle its rough. Brand new rig. Im swapping to 5w30. I have my mds off. It may indeed f*ck those lifters up. But ill just change em and do everything myself. I was worried about the 0w20 and dear god, that is straight water
People, Don’t wait till thousands of miles for the first change. I dropped mine at 500. Next change will be at 3000 so 2500 later. That’s….how you make a motor last
Just bought a new challenger 5.7, its had a very mild tick from day one ,very concerning ,the filler cap calls out for 0-20 then I see older 5.7 same engine calling for 5-20,whats up with that right ? I just did the oil change and put in 0-20 , but im dumping it and going thicker ,,my brothers a mechanic and when I told him the weight he said the same thing ,,for gas mileage ,go thicker Thanks for sharing
I also switched to 5w30 and went to a 180 thermostat and removed active grill shutter b.s. truck runs 185 to 190 instead of 210 to 220. 90k miles and still quite. Truck picked up .5 mpg with mds and active grill shutter disabled. Big fail mopar.
My 2022 Ram 2500 6.4 specifies 0w-40 in the manual & on the oil cap. I only hear a “tic” for 30 seconds upon startup but the manual specifically states this particular “tic” is completely normal (and it is). The question is, is 0W-40 sufficient? I’d have to imagine it is. At most maybe 5w-40 but not real reason not to trust 0W-40 at the moment.
Running heavier oil can be dangerous in the long run for engines as the oil galleries can be so small that heavier oil won't splash over as necessary, push rods that require oil to pass through may struggle. I use to do the very thing over the years and have seen engines fail due to the incorrect oil viscosity being used! What I have found to be useful is that on my last quart of oil I'd use a 5w30 instead of 20 in order to spare the ratio from to much change, I treated the last quart as an additive.
Anybody still use Marvel Mystery Oil as an additive to get the oil running better, used it to stop a lifter tick in a caddy CTS, worked great and quickly
Great video my friend. I have 24 k miles on my 2020 2500hd starting to tick. You think itl work switching to 05/30 now or to late for me? Will it revoke my power train warranty? I’m pist because our jeep had that bs that Cody me $3500 just fir one side of the engine. I’m actually going to a Chevy dealership today to check them out. No knob for gears no cylinder deactivation is sounding perty good to me. I purchased both new and there’s no way I’m dealing with that famous Fiat ticking again. All those years you’d think fiat would’ve fixed the ticking issue a long time ago but No they keep building them the same exact way knowing it will tick at some point. Mostly prematurely.
Napa has the Penzoil ultra platinum and it’s normally on sale. I do my first oil change at 1,500 miles and 3,000 miles after that. I can afford it and I won’t go past that. I don’t trust the long oil change intervals.
Brand new truck ticking!? Use the warranty! Thats what its there for! Should not have a tick brand new! Something is wrong and your fix is just prolonging the problem.. my 2020 5.7 hasn't ticked from day one. 46,000 miles on it with another 100,000+ miles on the warranty! If it ticks something is wrong!
I went ahead and did the 5W30 in my 2023 Ram 1500 Classic 5.7. Purrs like a kitten now. It's smoother on idle, at RPM and feels like it should. I put in Pennzoil Ultra Platinum as I wanted the best I could buy for this second oil change. I did the change at 1000kms on ODO and the old oil was black and there were some metal flakes and black debris that came out. I'm going to do another one at the 5000km mark just to be sure the engine isn't destroying itself. Oh and no codes, the MDS actually engages smoother than before as well. My warm idle pressure is 40psi and cruise (100 kph) pressure is at 58. She likes the thicker stuff.
@@mr.exclusive5361 I like it. It's old tech with some new features in electronics. My specific model is the SLT 4x4 with protection group, crew cab long box. It still came with cloth seats but I just bought some clazzio seat covers. I would call the classic less refined than ford's or chevy but they are just built solid with less tech to break or malfunction IMHO. I have the 5.7. If you don't need all that power or towing capability the classic with the 3.6 pentastar is ok. But really the 5.7 doesn't burn much more gas than my wife's Expedition with the 3.5 ecoboost. For the classic price vs ford or chevy equivalent, I paid 30 to 40k less. So it's the best bang for buck. Cummings are great except for the emissions junk. They a great engine unreliable and expensive to repair. Plus gas and diesel are on par where I'm from so gas was the more economical solution for me.
I special ordered my 2015 Dodge Challenger Scat Pack 6.4L. Always used 0W40 and since it was not my daily driver I never reached the recommended 6,000 mile oil change interval before the 6 month mark so it never went more than 3,500 miles before I changed the oil. Always garaged, I didn't beat on it but it still had three lifters fail and eat the camshaft at 43,000 miles. I'm seriously considering trying the 5W30 but would like to know if anyone has done that and if their oil sensor threw a CEL detecting the wrong oil viscosity. What if I used a Pennzoil Ultra Platinum mix of 4 qrts 5W30 and 3 qrts of 0W40?
20 viscosity oil is to thin, go no Lower than 30 viscosity.. cafe is fuel economy EPA mandated to automobile manufacturers + will premature wear on the internals....
I have a 2020 Bighorn 5.7L HEMI with 91k miles. Been running Mobile 1 synthetic since about 48k miles 5w20 as has been recommended. Do you suggest I go to 5w30?
I would run BG EPR on it before you change it and after you outta go with Amsoil, I run this in all my vehicles and it's great. I did quite a bit of research in it before switching and I wish I had done it years ago.
@@chrishart3090 the long life of it and the quality. I run it in my Wrangler and I have 13k miles on this oil change, I just changed the filter as that's good for 15k miles and the oil is good for 25k miles. When I changed the filter the oil looked good still. I've run Mobile 1 and Valvoline and this oil is by far the best.
You guys have a horrible understanding of oils, the first number is how well it flows cold and the second is how well it reduces shear. So the perfect oil would be ow-30 or 0-40 even. A 10-30 is not as good at either. Million of cars and trucks make hundreds of thousands miles on oil with a thinner viscosity. Go to bobs an oil guy and look around. By your logic putting 15w-45 in something calling for ow-16 would be better. The new oils are not what we had even 10 years ag
For anyone who believes you can't put 30 viscosity oil in these instead of 20 viscosity, what it comes down to is the main engine bearing gaps on the crankshaft, now thinner oils will travel faster especially in cold weather, so a 5w20 will flow to the cam faster than a 5w30 will... However in the case of the 5.7 Hemi engine, the tolerances allow for up to a 15w40 in actuality, if you look at any engine machine shop spec sheets, its fine... race cars run 15W50 btw ( loose is fast ) I was told by an 60 year engine builder once, they run loose tolerances and 50 viscosity oil. (also the w, in 5w30 means winter rating, not weight.. stop saying weight.. The second number is the viscosity of the oil. In general 5w30 for the Hemi, in cold weather 0w20, in extreme heat 10w40. There you go.
@@chadjohnson7544 more worried about the lifters. If these didn't come with mds I wouldn't even question it. I do think 5-30 is safe tho. Some years ram says you can run it. I don't think mine tho
@secondgensilverado8752 mine says only 5w20 yet 5w20 just doesn't seem to cut it. As soon as I put 5w30 in it runs like a top. Just my experience. I have gen 3 without mds.
I will tell you the exhaust manifold bolts break happens to all hemis after around 70k to 80k just the 2 rear ones or back of engine replacing the bolts with arp bolts worked great for my truck I did alot of resurch sounds like tick only on start up goes away after it warms up
Oh that would be false, I have a hemi with 350,000 miles on it and it’s by far the best engine any of my friends have ever witnessed because they all drive Ford and Chevys and none of them have had a vehicle that made it past 250 I change my oil between five and seven when I get around to it Never more than that and if I’m towing heavy with it, I will change it at five but dumping synthetic fluid out at 3000 miles would be stupid you’ve obviously never tested your oil to know what you’re talking about. I’ve tested mine at 7000 miles and it was an excellent condition That could not be said for a turbo charged engine so you understand the difference aspirated engines and it’s not a Ford with a ton of blow by which all Fords have you don’t need to change it at 3000 miles there’s a difference I owned Ford with 75,000 miles with blow by always consuming oil. It never stopped from New once a hemi has broken it’s a 350,000 mile engine at the minimum.
Smart man, you want to get any metal shavings from machining out ASAP! Will say though, Amsoil is a WASTE of money! It's nothing but a marketing SCAM and Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is the BEST, made with NATURAL GAS!
Thanks.. interestingly, just switched to VALVOLINE SYN , in my Vehicle’s…(* my Point s Shop did, as I stopped OCI/ work At 77 years young, , , etc .) AnyWAYS, had used a MOBIL ONE/ NAPA GOLD , MIOAR FILTERS/)… anything else,?? on VALVOLINE S((* I figured going tO VALVOLINE RESTORE/ Protectsoon).
I run 5W30 Full Syn in my 2020 Hemi Rebel. I ignore the computer and change it every 5000 miles. Now at 36,200 miles, no issues. Truck runs great, no hemi tick. Don't think the brand is critical, or even the weight, but the frequency is. All my vehicles, 5000 for oil.
5K When you DUMP your Oil, No Further. 7K ain't bad but 5K no Matter who's OIL! I can recommend Schaeffers 5W30 Series 9000, Or AMSOIL 5W30 Signature Series. Give it a Try and see if ya Like it. It's a Bit more $$, I was able to get it at $10.00 Per Quart,(Schaeffers), from a Dealer in Town. See what ya think if ya Try it in the future? AMSOIL is Very Costly Like $15.00 PER QUART unless you sign up as a Preferred Customer, But you Still have to Pay Shipping on the AMSOIL...
@@fsb_-bf3th 25K Is Just too Far fsb. I've done it (but you forgot to mention) you have to Change the Filter, (Must be an AMSOIL FILTER Also) to be able to go the 25K Under Amsoil's rules/guarantee and TOP OFF the Oil with the same AMSOIL used to go the 25K Distance. Again, I've done like Three times since I became a Dealer in 1997. I do NOT Recommend it to Anyone, even my customers. Sorry fsb, 25K is Just too far on Anyone's Oil, Synthetic Or Full Synthetic, Or Liquid GOLD.
Techs are telling people to do that use the Hellcat pump is the ACTUAL fix, and if you want to retain MDS you use the non hellcat spring to make your ecu happy...the main issue is idle oil pressure and flow....hellcat pumps solve this because they are high pressure and use the SAME lifter, don't see this failure at remotely the rate in fact I haven't met anyone with the hellcat tick and it uses the same lifter ( the non mds ones )
So if you were using 0w-20 in your hemi you were using too light a weight oil. In both of the 2020 truck that I have with the 6.4 it should be 0w-40 which is not easy to find and few places actually sell it. It’s actually an oil used in light duty diesels. That last number is important
Do you know why they switched to 5w20??? They added VVT, the VVT system speeds up or slows down your camshaft. Keep your oil clean and don’t over idle your vehicle because if you do the camshaft will beat the crap out of your lifters.
Whch there is broad knowledge that Moly is terrible for needle bearings. Gues what fails on lifters of Hemis? Needle bearings. Keep playing around listening to "forum engineers" or this guy. He makes stuff up as he goes. Going from 20w to 30w will not cahnge a thing with those lifters.
@@Chiefgeargrinder Hey, I just follow the engineers. You know, the ones who built it? Not some random stranger on a forum. No one can produce anything concrete to support the change from the manual other than their own anecdotal evidence.
When I bought my new truck (2019 Ram 1500 Laramie 4x4), I changed the oil to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Full Synthetic 5w-20 with a Mobil1 113A oil filter. I change every 5,000-6,000 miles. Truck currently has 120,000 miles and I have never had any ticks or knocking sounds. No noise whatsoever. I also just fill it up with shell gas only. 89 or 91 octane. I’m glad my truck is running smoothly with no noises and issues with the 5w-20. And I’m in a hot climate area, Houston.
Faithfully use amsoil 5w20 and a wix filter (technically20,000 mile oil!) in my 300s awd hemi but I always change at 6000 even though oil looks new and use recommended mid grade gasoline engine is quiet and strong
Thanks man for this info! I got a Hemi 5.7 that had the tick and - given my ignorance at the time - I took it into the Jeep, Ram dealership and spend a lot of money. If I had only known…
Great job here, its true, and the oil industry is a scam Quality is a big factor. People using ultra platinum 20w aren't having the issues, however thicker does help as well. Id run 0w40 with half quart less. It will warm up faster and also allow some power to free up off the crankk shaft you should also change oil every 2000 miles in severe duty. And got climate. 3000 if it's highway and light duty.
So I have a Durango with 350,000 miles on it. It’s a 57 hemi it’s ticked since day one it does not matter I run all synthetic in it and I know it will go another hundred thousand miles and the drivetrain has had zero work done on it Dodge ram Chrysler whatever you wanna call it has far superior Drive drains coming from a multiple Fraud=Ford owner I just look around and see all of the jeeps and Durangos , and dodge trucks from 20 years ago. Still on the road. Compare that to Ford or Chevy how many models/engines have come on the market and gone in the last 20 years not even on the road anymore
You must be smarter than the engineers that designed this engine. Lol. Dude use the oil the manual tells you to use and if you have some sort of tick you have a warranty. Take it to the dealer.
Bought a 2021 Ram 1500 for my wife with 30k miles on it. It's going to Idle ALOT. I'm going to replace the oil pump with a hellcat pump. Gives higher volume and higher pressure at Idle.
Higher oil pressure will cause a check engine light. Run the hellcat pump with the factory Ram 1500 spring, then you get higher volume but same OEM pressure, which means no CEL
I just bought 2024 Ram 1500 Limited. I want to thank you so much for your amazing information sir! I just changed my oil today she only had 850km on her. I put in 5W-30. I spent so much money on the truck, I did not want to take a chance on the "Hemi Tick" Thank you for your video! I truly appreciate it! Salute sir!
Been running 5w 30 in a 5.7 since 2013 , no tick . Done 130,000 km. Only problem so far was one exhaust manifold cracked at about 100,000 kms. I run Penrite 10 10ths racing oil , high zinc formula
Mine just started it at 75k. You can hear it more when you put it in drive and keep your foot on the brake. It’s a little louder when it’s cold. Thinking of trading it in for a tundra lol
I dont have a truck, but have a 2021 dodge durango 5.7 and i got it brand new, and have done all my oils at 4500 times and i always use penzoil full synthetic 5w-20 what the engine says. And have never had an issue with hemi tick,but i put just premium fuel to tho
I got a 2014 Chrysler 300s I believe my lifters need to be replaced it runs but runs rough and ticks the check engine light comes on and blinks if I accelerate too much. I bought a while cam and lifter set non mds from ams racing I hope this solves my issue. Looking for a high volume oil pump to add
Original video:
th-cam.com/video/YGbv2G67a80/w-d-xo.html
a higher capacity oil pump is what you need. that is the COMPLETE fix for hemi engines 2009 and up. oil weight doesnt matter. oil capacity does. theres just not enough pressure to oil the cam and lifters at idle and at low rpm speeds. a higher capacity oil pump increases pressure AND amount of oil to cover the top end. thats the only fix for these engines to eliminate the hemi tick
I put this as a comment as well and saw yours a few minutes after. It's great to see someone else that understand and knows the solutions as well. People still need to tune out the oil pressure check light that comes on but what you and are are saying is not super known yet. 🎉
Why is the noise not there then? Is that not fixed?
@@BryanEnsign Melling high volume pumps come with a factory standard spring accessory that you can install prior to putting in the pump that will keep the code from triggering.
I was told to go higher pressure oil pump, not higher volume. Still reading on it
@@Mini_Rig Melling and Hell Cat oilpump are essentially the same 12% more volume at idle you want volume not pressure. Thicker oil causes higher pressure, but doesn't mean more oil. You want volume no oil pump will give you higher pressure that is determined by the thickness of the oil.
Think of it like this. Your body does not need higher blood pressure, because that is hard on your arteries but a thinner blood which means more oxygenated cells are passing through and around back to the lungs more quickly. Which means more oxygen and less carbondioxide in your blood. More efficient.
When I had the cam phazers replaced in my 09 f150, the mechanic told me to start using 5w-30, i asked him why. He told me
that oil's have to perform with a hydraulic action as well as a lubricant and a thicker oil eliminates this problem
in in lifters and tensioners. I also run a very good friction modifier in it as well, this was five years ago and it runs
soo smooth and quiet.
My 09 has 303,700 miles on it, always ran 5w20 conventional quaker state in it. Changed the oil religiously at 5000 miles. It does tick on start up but still has power and runs good.
Consistent change is key. It keeps the wear from happening sooner. My thoughts is it will tick at some point no matter what oil we use.
So many don’t understand how important engine oil changes are !! Mechanics do.
I get 16,000 mile oil and my truck has no tick at 180,000. Sounds like a watch. Probably better to use hi quality fuel.
From all my studying.... Start up tick is normal if your truck sits for day or 2 without starting.
Noise on start up normally means exhaust manifold leak
Yeah man, you can never change the oil too often. These high mileage factory recommended oil changes are ridiculous, completely designed to f'ck your engine.
Hemi tick. There is a cast webbing under the cam, that runs the full length of the cam. Idle is what kills the lifter. Throws oil on the web and not the cam. Co-worker ran rotella 15w40 for over 300,000 on his 5.7l hemi ram. Pulled motor for different reason. I believe he said it still had the Hash marks on cylinder wals, clean cam. And No tick.
The modern hemis are not splash lubricated at the cam. Oil flows directly to the cam and lifters. I do agree that extended idle times are bad for them, because of the low oil pressure that occurs at full operating temps with worn out thin 5w20 oil. How would the MDS lifters operate just on splash without direct oil pressure. Don't go past 5k miles with oil changes, run 5w30, and keep idle times to a minimum (especially in the summer) and a stock 5.7 hemi wil run forever.
@@edjackson4389 😂 DON'T IDLE your precious 'lil fragile Hemi too long now boy! 🫵🤠 Lolol RAM JUUUNK
@@James-rk6go I usually don't have to. Your mom is able to get me off before lifter damage occurs. I drive away, and she's on to the next RAMMING 😂
Idling is what kills these hemis. (Low oil pressure on idle) like has been previously stated they have the melling oil pump. And also the hellcat pump. But they say the melling is the way to go. 2013 with 156k on mine. Still no issues minus normal wear an tear.. thinking bout buying the meling pump soon.
I run 5w30 synthetic in mine with Lucas pure synthetic in the summer, and 5w20 with Lucas pure synthetic in the winter. No issues, and little to no valvetrain noise.
you know that it doesn't make a difference with that similar of temperature ratings right?
@@aidenrybchuk8098 I see a difference in oil pressure and engine oil temperature compared to 5w20. The oil stays temp stays consistently above 212 degrees, and doesn't fluctuate like the 5w20 does. An oil temp 212+ leads to a longer engine life, and more efficient operation.
Lucas Synthetic Additive is a beast
@@DellCvz
Is that good or bad? I’ve been warned about using additives. But I’m curious and willing to improve my oil if possible. 👍
@@DellCvzLucas is nothing but a heavy oil , nothing special at all . There isn't even detergents in it which is a bad thing .
I run 5w30 ultra platinum in my hemi bighorn ........ quiet and smooth ....... mobil1 113a filter best oil pressure
What climate are you living in? Im up north. Thinking of switching to 5w30
Live in nj
I did whatcha said, did my research and found like you said. They lied about their recommendations. I did the 5w30 oil change and now runs like an absolute badass. What I thought was an exhaust leak was actually the infamous Hemi Tick!
Don’t know how algorithms brought me here but I’m enjoying the comments. With a little research and oil sampling anyone can find out how long you can run your oil. This isn’t the 60’s anymore. With oils being designed to match extended service drain intervals, I have no idea how people are discussing 2 and 3 thousand mile oil changes, BUT thankfully in America everyone can do whatever they want.
It's generally an additive package vs thicker TBN to make a 5w ( both are 5 not talking about an insane Ow which the scat pack specifies or void of warranty 0w-40 which is HARD to source and in both cases you also have to male sure they are Mopar spec oil for warranty retention ask me how I know )...nothing wrong with running a 5w30 go have better protection when at operating temp but cold starts would sound similar..I run 5w-30 in my 21 Limited Ram as well....
I don't think you should tell people that is what cured your truck it was on your first oil change and that along could have settled it down regardless of viscosity ( though no harm in running 5w-30)...
Also as you stated several years of owners manuals had the owner running which oils since 2009, well those engines ticked and failed as well even when running THAT years recommendation lifter failure isn't new to this engine at all....its a design flaw which is why ALL the Mopar tech say one of the huge variables is idle time on engine not viscosity ran...
Also in my research most lifters fail if they are gonna from 45k-75k you gonna need about 120k to feel safe ( seems like if they make it 100k they make it 200k lol damn)...
There WAS a major change to this engine since 2009, iirc it was 2017 they went to a lifter with a much larger captured needle bearing on the wheel....
Lots of assumptions and misinformation, but imho your dead right they push 0w and 5w20 for CAFE compliance, where these big truck engines often hauling loads could benefit from a 5w30 and later a 5w40 ( same cold performance more film strength when warm )...
However let's not let dodge of the hook for their design flaw here, my wife's ride turbo gas engine is specced at 0w20 running much warmer oil temps than my Ram down the road, with a much more complex system and Jesus she extends her oil change ( I've tried everything down to taking it myself ), a few weeks ago I was Laying under her ride in a cold and hot start scenario....so quite so tight that engine has another 100k in it easy.....
Sad thing is dodge bolts this engine real tight, you add a hellcat oil pump and no more lifter issues, it doesn't have enough oil pressure at idle ( which raising viscosity can help with) for the way the black and MDS is designed...
These engines would go 300k if not for the valve train....sad...but even at that if dodge stood behind them could give em a pass for it....
I know a guy personally that trucks to dodge dealerships there are piles of cams, lifters and heads hauled off...piles and piles of lifter cam failures...
Best of luck to everyone and myself....lol
Be warned, the wrong oil viscosity can cause VVT issues and throw engine codes, and when that happens, the computer goes into “limp home” mode with no power until you replace the oil with the proper weight and reset the code. The code will fire on the second ignition cycle like clockwork.
I Have been using 5W-40 in my Ram1500 hemi for a year now. I commute 1 hout each day. Its keeps it quiet and purs.
We use 0w-40 on both our 6.4s and we have no issues. One has 50k miles and the other has 127k.
I got p0303 code have a slight tick. Ran 5w30 in the summer and check engine light came on at end of September. Switched to 5w20 with some marvel mystery oil and it's quieted down by check engine light still on.
Use what is recommended for the engine. I hate when TH-cam people like this spread this BS like putting heavier oil in your engine. You use what is recommended and what the engine was designed for, period.
I just swith hed from 5w-20 to 5w-30. Oil pressure got on freeway the same at 51 PSI. MDS wirks just fine. I have some Euro 5w-40 I will try next time. Ours had 59K mikes, much of that Interstates/Freeways. Thanks for the video.
Any problems ?
Did the same people said I was nuts only 1000 miles on my 2023 Charger Daytona TICK IS GONE no matter when I start it up. Thanks for the video!
I have a 2016 Ram 1500, 54k miles. I change my oil every 5k miles with Pennzoil Plat synth, I have a very small tick and always had. I do think 3k miles is way too excessive, and mine has MDS (some Chrysler techs have suggested that MDS has nothing to do with the tick). Either way, I will continue to run 5W-20 until new symptoms occur. Oil is pricey! (Plus grinding a cam will give me the excuse to put a performance one in!)
My last 3 trucks were Ram/Hemi. I had the Hemi tick on all. After switching to 5w30 about a year ago the Hemi tick is gone!
I have an old Chevy HHR with 200,000 miles that I spend the least that I can maintaining it. The lower-cost 5w30 oils on the shelf seem to be out of stock more than than not, so this is an area that I have come to terms with by spending a bit more on oil. Since it uses a quart of oil every month, I’m not spending $11.99 a quart on Royal Purple.
I never heard my hemi tick. Just started running bad. Very little power. Lifter collapsed chewed up camshaft. 2012 Dodge Ram 96k. Purchased new oil changes every 3k. Never abused. Daily driver mostly highway. I believe that the MDS did this to my engine. I had it deleted. Full time 8 now.
Keep idle down too, that's an issue people don't realize with these.
And the argument over prolonged idle times. So also when I made the switch, I was running mid to high 20s psi at 600rpm. Now it runs religiously at 41psi at 600rpm. So it’s getting very liberal amounts of oil at all times! Extremely happy I made the switch!
Pressure does not indicate flow.
I do first oil & filter change on a New vehicle at 500 miles
I found in my ram...using 520 then using 3ozs of lucas honey made my shit silent. It's a 2021.
Warmed up pretty fast from sitting over night...😂
The first oil change i did on my 2024 at 764 miles. (Getting metal out) that sh*t went everywhere. Litterally like water. I out full syn 0w20 back in and at idle its rough. Brand new rig. Im swapping to 5w30. I have my mds off. It may indeed f*ck those lifters up. But ill just change em and do everything myself. I was worried about the 0w20 and dear god, that is straight water
Nothing wrong with 5/20, just change it at 3,000. Two if you’re working it hard.
People, Don’t wait till thousands of miles for the first change. I dropped mine at 500. Next change will be at 3000 so 2500 later. That’s….how you make a motor last
Just bought a new challenger 5.7, its had a very mild tick from day one ,very concerning ,the filler cap calls out for 0-20 then I see older 5.7 same engine calling for 5-20,whats up with that right ? I just did the oil change and put in 0-20 , but im dumping it and going thicker ,,my brothers a mechanic and when I told him the weight he said the same thing ,,for gas mileage ,go thicker
Thanks for sharing
I also switched to 5w30 and went to a 180 thermostat and removed active grill shutter b.s. truck runs 185 to 190 instead of 210 to 220. 90k miles and still quite. Truck picked up .5 mpg with mds and active grill shutter disabled. Big fail mopar.
My 2022 Ram 2500 6.4 specifies 0w-40 in the manual & on the oil cap. I only hear a “tic” for 30 seconds upon startup but the manual specifically states this particular “tic” is completely normal (and it is). The question is, is 0W-40 sufficient? I’d have to imagine it is. At most maybe 5w-40 but not real reason not to trust 0W-40 at the moment.
Running heavier oil can be dangerous in the long run for engines as the oil galleries can be so small that heavier oil won't splash over as necessary, push rods that require oil to pass through may struggle. I use to do the very thing over the years and have seen engines fail due to the incorrect oil viscosity being used! What I have found to be useful is that on my last quart of oil I'd use a 5w30 instead of 20 in order to spare the ratio from to much change, I treated the last quart as an additive.
Anybody still use Marvel Mystery Oil as an additive to get the oil running better, used it to stop a lifter tick in a caddy CTS, worked great and quickly
Why would you have a tick with that low mileage? Why are you waiting so long to change the oil?
Great video my friend. I have 24 k miles on my 2020 2500hd starting to tick. You think itl work switching to 05/30 now or to late for me? Will it revoke my power train warranty? I’m pist because our jeep had that bs that Cody me $3500 just fir one side of the engine. I’m actually going to a Chevy dealership today to check them out. No knob for gears no cylinder deactivation is sounding perty good to me. I purchased both new and there’s no way I’m dealing with that famous Fiat ticking again. All those years you’d think fiat would’ve fixed the ticking issue a long time ago but No they keep building them the same exact way knowing it will tick at some point. Mostly prematurely.
Yah stellantis is really getting junky I’ll never buy one!
Well I have a truck with 300,000 kms and it had the hemi tick and when I changed to 5w30 the tick disappeared immediately.
Napa has the Penzoil ultra platinum and it’s normally on sale. I do my first oil change at 1,500 miles and 3,000 miles after that. I can afford it and I won’t go past that. I don’t trust the long oil change intervals.
Lucas pure synthetic i have the 4.7 and it calls for 5w 30
Brand new truck ticking!? Use the warranty! Thats what its there for! Should not have a tick brand new! Something is wrong and your fix is just prolonging the problem.. my 2020 5.7 hasn't ticked from day one. 46,000 miles on it with another 100,000+ miles on the warranty! If it ticks something is wrong!
What would be your opinion on changing to 5w30 on a ram with 120k miles but i don't not have hemi tick..
Strange, I hear the Hemi tick in this video.
So... did you have a code thrown because of the thicker oil? Or did you just change the oil and that's that?
I went ahead and did the 5W30 in my 2023 Ram 1500 Classic 5.7. Purrs like a kitten now. It's smoother on idle, at RPM and feels like it should. I put in Pennzoil Ultra Platinum as I wanted the best I could buy for this second oil change. I did the change at 1000kms on ODO and the old oil was black and there were some metal flakes and black debris that came out. I'm going to do another one at the 5000km mark just to be sure the engine isn't destroying itself.
Oh and no codes, the MDS actually engages smoother than before as well. My warm idle pressure is 40psi and cruise (100 kph) pressure is at 58.
She likes the thicker stuff.
Was looking into getting the ram classic instead of my Cummins because of how short my drive is to work, how do you like it so far?
@@mr.exclusive5361 I like it. It's old tech with some new features in electronics. My specific model is the SLT 4x4 with protection group, crew cab long box. It still came with cloth seats but I just bought some clazzio seat covers.
I would call the classic less refined than ford's or chevy but they are just built solid with less tech to break or malfunction IMHO.
I have the 5.7. If you don't need all that power or towing capability the classic with the 3.6 pentastar is ok. But really the 5.7 doesn't burn much more gas than my wife's Expedition with the 3.5 ecoboost.
For the classic price vs ford or chevy equivalent, I paid 30 to 40k less. So it's the best bang for buck.
Cummings are great except for the emissions junk. They a great engine unreliable and expensive to repair. Plus gas and diesel are on par where I'm from so gas was the more economical solution for me.
I special ordered my 2015 Dodge Challenger Scat Pack 6.4L. Always used 0W40 and since it was not my daily driver I never reached the recommended 6,000 mile oil change interval before the 6 month mark so it never went more than 3,500 miles before I changed the oil. Always garaged, I didn't beat on it but it still had three lifters fail and eat the camshaft at 43,000 miles. I'm seriously considering trying the 5W30 but would like to know if anyone has done that and if their oil sensor threw a CEL detecting the wrong oil viscosity. What if I used a Pennzoil Ultra Platinum mix of 4 qrts 5W30 and 3 qrts of 0W40?
I've been using either 0W40 or 5W40 for 35k miles with no issues.
Has anyone tried 5w50 for the 6.4L Hemi? I wanna try it in my charger to see if it will get rid of ticking noise.
2014 dodge ram tapping on passenger side of motor
Hopefully it's a broken exhaust manifold stud. I have a 17 with an exhaust leak passenger side. It goes away after heating up though
Will this work in charger rt’s ?
i did 5-40 is that okay?
20 viscosity oil is to thin, go no Lower than 30 viscosity.. cafe is fuel economy EPA mandated to automobile manufacturers + will premature wear on the internals....
Everything will break in that truck except the engine.
I brought my 21 rebel into the dealership for this and they said they replaced two lifters. I still have the ticking and it sounds louder now
Geez, part ways with it if possible. That 6.2 is worse than the 5.7 when it comes to lifters
I have a 2020 Bighorn 5.7L HEMI with 91k miles. Been running Mobile 1 synthetic since about 48k miles 5w20 as has been recommended.
Do you suggest I go to 5w30?
I would run BG EPR on it before you change it and after you outta go with Amsoil, I run this in all my vehicles and it's great. I did quite a bit of research in it before switching and I wish I had done it years ago.
@@JF32304 Thank you! out of curiosity, why Amsoil?
@@chrishart3090 the long life of it and the quality. I run it in my Wrangler and I have 13k miles on this oil change, I just changed the filter as that's good for 15k miles and the oil is good for 25k miles. When I changed the filter the oil looked good still. I've run Mobile 1 and Valvoline and this oil is by far the best.
AmsOil is very good; Penzoil Plat FSynthetic comes real close at almost HALF THE PRICE.
@@JohnSmith-zw6tr I won't touch Pennzoil. You couldn't pay me to run that stuff.
Why the hell would you go 8-10 000 miles apparently you don't want your engine to last 5000 max
Hemi and RAM are trash though 😢🤣
#Grenades 💣
You guys have a horrible understanding of oils, the first number is how well it flows cold and the second is how well it reduces shear. So the perfect oil would be ow-30 or 0-40 even. A 10-30 is not as good at either. Million of cars and trucks make hundreds of thousands miles on oil with a thinner viscosity. Go to bobs an oil guy and look around. By your logic putting 15w-45 in something calling for ow-16 would be better. The new oils are not what we had even 10 years ag
that engine sounded terrible
DO YOUR TRUCK A FAVOR AND WASH EVERYTHING UNDER THE HOOD
For anyone who believes you can't put 30 viscosity oil in these instead of 20 viscosity, what it comes down to is the main engine bearing gaps on the crankshaft, now thinner oils will travel faster especially in cold weather, so a 5w20 will flow to the cam faster than a 5w30 will... However in the case of the 5.7 Hemi engine, the tolerances allow for up to a 15w40 in actuality, if you look at any engine machine shop spec sheets, its fine... race cars run 15W50 btw ( loose is fast ) I was told by an 60 year engine builder once, they run loose tolerances and 50 viscosity oil. (also the w, in 5w30 means winter rating, not weight.. stop saying weight.. The second number is the viscosity of the oil. In general 5w30 for the Hemi, in cold weather 0w20, in extreme heat 10w40. There you go.
So I agree with you, but the 15 40 would destroy that mds system. If that system is deleted, you'd have no issues
The only reason 5w20 is recommended is for the mds system your manual even states 5w30 can be used … use you head more than your mouth
I have 08 5.7 hemi and switched to 5w30 with 100k no knock. This really does work.
@@chadjohnson7544 more worried about the lifters. If these didn't come with mds I wouldn't even question it. I do think 5-30 is safe tho. Some years ram says you can run it. I don't think mine tho
@secondgensilverado8752 mine says only 5w20 yet 5w20 just doesn't seem to cut it. As soon as I put 5w30 in it runs like a top. Just my experience. I have gen 3 without mds.
I will tell you the exhaust manifold bolts break happens to all hemis after around 70k to 80k just the 2 rear ones or back of engine replacing the bolts with arp bolts worked great for my truck I did alot of resurch sounds like tick only on start up goes away after it warms up
grab the shield and see if it is loose to find and confirm your bolt failure. Planed my oem manifold at 70k and have had no issue on my 17 ram
You want your hemi to last you? Don’t wait until 5 thousand miles do it at 3
I do my 2020 5.7 with 34k on the clock, every 3k miles😅
I think it’s insane to wait till 5,6K like they are allowing. I use AmsOil Full Synthetic at 3k no matter what’
Oh that would be false, I have a hemi with 350,000 miles on it and it’s by far the best engine any of my friends have ever witnessed because they all drive Ford and Chevys and none of them have had a vehicle that made it past 250 I change my oil between five and seven when I get around to it Never more than that and if I’m towing heavy with it, I will change it at five but dumping synthetic fluid out at 3000 miles would be stupid you’ve obviously never tested your oil to know what you’re talking about. I’ve tested mine at 7000 miles and it was an excellent condition That could not be said for a turbo charged engine so you understand the difference aspirated engines and it’s not a Ford with a ton of blow by which all Fords have you don’t need to change it at 3000 miles there’s a difference I owned Ford with 75,000 miles with blow by always consuming oil. It never stopped from New once a hemi has broken it’s a 350,000 mile engine at the minimum.
@@AmericanSurvival001I'm guessing your Hemi is older and does not have MDS
@@AmericanSurvival001 put a Magnet 🧲 up to the oil while its Draining!
My first oil change on my last two trucks have been at 1500 miles. Wanted to get the break in trash out and etc the Amsoil in.
Smart man, you want to get any metal shavings from machining out ASAP! Will say though, Amsoil is a WASTE of money! It's nothing but a marketing SCAM and Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is the BEST, made with NATURAL GAS!
I have been using Valvoline Advaced synthetic in everything for at least 8 years. Its been great to me and oil analysis come back good
Valvoline advanced is good stuff cheap and has lots of moly in it which quiets these hemis down.
Thanks.. interestingly, just switched to VALVOLINE SYN , in my Vehicle’s…(* my Point s Shop did, as I stopped OCI/ work At 77 years young, , , etc .) AnyWAYS, had used a MOBIL ONE/ NAPA GOLD , MIOAR FILTERS/)… anything else,?? on VALVOLINE S((* I figured going tO VALVOLINE RESTORE/ Protectsoon).
I run 5W30 Full Syn in my 2020 Hemi Rebel. I ignore the computer and change it every 5000 miles. Now at 36,200 miles, no issues. Truck runs great, no hemi tick. Don't think the brand is critical, or even the weight, but the frequency is. All my vehicles, 5000 for oil.
At 36k you better not have any problems, that's still new
Exactly
Long story short abolish the epa
Been running AMSOIL 5W-20 XL since I got my 2015 Ram 1500 5.7L. Now have 100200 miles and no issue. I change oil when computer says it’s time.
5K When you DUMP your Oil, No Further. 7K ain't bad but 5K no Matter who's OIL! I can recommend Schaeffers 5W30 Series 9000, Or AMSOIL 5W30 Signature Series. Give it a Try and see if ya Like it. It's a Bit more $$, I was able to get it at $10.00 Per Quart,(Schaeffers), from a Dealer in Town. See what ya think if ya Try it in the future? AMSOIL is Very Costly Like $15.00 PER QUART unless you sign up as a Preferred Customer, But you Still have to Pay Shipping on the AMSOIL...
Signature series is good for 25k. And it will be good all the way to the end because it’s actually 100% synthetic unlike the lie of “full synthetic”
@@fsb_-bf3th 25K Is Just too Far fsb. I've done it (but you forgot to mention) you have to Change the Filter, (Must be an AMSOIL FILTER Also) to be able to go the 25K Under Amsoil's rules/guarantee and TOP OFF the Oil with the same AMSOIL used to go the 25K Distance. Again, I've done like Three times since I became a Dealer in 1997. I do NOT Recommend it to Anyone, even my customers. Sorry fsb, 25K is Just too far on Anyone's Oil, Synthetic Or Full Synthetic, Or Liquid GOLD.
I was always taught to do first oil change at 500 second at 1500 and then every 3,000 after
My Hemi been ticking for 200,000 miles.
10w40 fixed it.
First oil change at 1000 miles max.
How about switching the oil pump out to one with higher flow? Changing oil thickness may make the oil pump work harder or possibly restrict the flow.
Techs are telling people to do that use the Hellcat pump is the ACTUAL fix, and if you want to retain MDS you use the non hellcat spring to make your ecu happy...the main issue is idle oil pressure and flow....hellcat pumps solve this because they are high pressure and use the SAME lifter, don't see this failure at remotely the rate in fact I haven't met anyone with the hellcat tick and it uses the same lifter ( the non mds ones )
So if you were using 0w-20 in your hemi you were using too light a weight oil. In both of the 2020 truck that I have with the 6.4 it should be 0w-40 which is not easy to find and few places actually sell it. It’s actually an oil used in light duty diesels. That last number is important
Do you know why they switched to 5w20??? They added VVT, the VVT system speeds up or slows down your camshaft. Keep your oil clean and don’t over idle your vehicle because if you do the camshaft will beat the crap out of your lifters.
Redline 5w/30 has been popular because of all the Moly it has in it.
Valvoline advance full synthetic, especially full synthetic high mileage has a lot. Very good oil for a great price. Very underrated.
Yeah Virgin sample I tested was 530 ppm moly.
Whch there is broad knowledge that Moly is terrible for needle bearings. Gues what fails on lifters of Hemis? Needle bearings. Keep playing around listening to "forum engineers" or this guy. He makes stuff up as he goes. Going from 20w to 30w will not cahnge a thing with those lifters.
@Dusdaddy I don't see how Moly would cause needle bearing failures but okay then use diesel oil.
@@Chiefgeargrinder Hey, I just follow the engineers. You know, the ones who built it? Not some random stranger on a forum. No one can produce anything concrete to support the change from the manual other than their own anecdotal evidence.
I just hit 10,500 on my 2023 Rebel and I'm switching my oil to this. I hear the ticking so I'll give it a try thanks brother!
Did it work for you?
How about now?
Now?
Now???
When I bought my new truck (2019 Ram 1500 Laramie 4x4), I changed the oil to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Full Synthetic 5w-20 with a Mobil1 113A oil filter. I change every 5,000-6,000 miles. Truck currently has 120,000 miles and I have never had any ticks or knocking sounds. No noise whatsoever. I also just fill it up with shell gas only. 89 or 91 octane. I’m glad my truck is running smoothly with no noises and issues with the 5w-20. And I’m in a hot climate area, Houston.
Exactly. Quality oil was the number 1 problem
Faithfully use amsoil 5w20 and a wix filter (technically20,000 mile oil!) in my 300s awd hemi but I always change at 6000 even though oil looks new and use recommended mid grade gasoline engine is quiet and strong
Thanks man for this info! I got a Hemi 5.7 that had the tick and - given my ignorance at the time - I took it into the Jeep, Ram dealership and spend a lot of money. If I had only known…
Great job here, its true, and the oil industry is a scam
Quality is a big factor. People using ultra platinum 20w aren't having the issues, however thicker does help as well. Id run 0w40 with half quart less. It will warm up faster and also allow some power to free up off the crankk shaft you should also change oil every 2000 miles in severe duty. And got climate. 3000 if it's highway and light duty.
What about using good old 10w-30. I use that in all my vehicles as our winters aren't that cold.
So I have a Durango with 350,000 miles on it. It’s a 57 hemi it’s ticked since day one it does not matter I run all synthetic in it and I know it will go another hundred thousand miles and the drivetrain has had zero work done on it Dodge ram Chrysler whatever you wanna call it has far superior Drive drains coming from a multiple Fraud=Ford owner I just look around and see all of the jeeps and Durangos , and dodge trucks from 20 years ago. Still on the road. Compare that to Ford or Chevy how many models/engines have come on the market and gone in the last 20 years not even on the road anymore
You must be smarter than the engineers that designed this engine. Lol. Dude use the oil the manual tells you to use and if you have some sort of tick you have a warranty. Take it to the dealer.
First mistake was buying a DODGE! 😂😂
How is your motor now? I know this is a old video but I had to ask.👍🏽
i also change my oil with 5w30 synthetic oil no more tick a tick even after a week of using my RAM
How many miles
@@GeorgeDelgado-kj8rh 109000 miles
need full synthetic with oil spec MS-6395!!!!
Luke warm start you hear a little bit at start and then it quiets down right away.
Bought a 2021 Ram 1500 for my wife with 30k miles on it. It's going to Idle ALOT. I'm going to replace the oil pump with a hellcat pump. Gives higher volume and higher pressure at Idle.
Let us know how that works
Higher oil pressure will cause a check engine light. Run the hellcat pump with the factory Ram 1500 spring, then you get higher volume but same OEM pressure, which means no CEL
Try Penzoil Ultra Platinum, 137k on mine….no tick
35k on my 2020 think it’s safe to switch over to 5w30? Mainly used for getting groceries.
@@luhms01heard that penzoil is trash
My 2022 ram 2500 6.4L calls for 0w-40. If your theory is correct why not use 5w-40?
What octane fuel you put in it?
I just bought 2024 Ram 1500 Limited. I want to thank you so much for your amazing information sir! I just changed my oil today she only had 850km on her. I put in 5W-30. I spent so much money on the truck, I did not want to take a chance on the "Hemi Tick" Thank you for your video! I truly appreciate it! Salute sir!
I feel sorry for you.
@@mikezahnow1605 don't be man best decision I ever made buying the truck. I love it worth every penny.
@@unbearable5883 I'm happy you like it. Hope it treats you well.
If 1:04 is a good healthy engine sound then i should be fine. I still think it sound ticky lol
I wouldn't give you a nickel for a Dodge. I am brand specific but it isn't Dodge. Hemi is overrated.
Just don’t idle it much
Been running 5w 30 in a 5.7 since 2013 , no tick . Done 130,000 km. Only problem so far was one exhaust manifold cracked at about 100,000 kms. I run Penrite 10 10ths racing oil , high zinc formula
Don’t care about your engine warranty though?
Mine started making noise at 70,000 miles, I traded it in, didn't want to go for cams and lifters. $$$
Mine just started it at 75k. You can hear it more when you put it in drive and keep your foot on the brake. It’s a little louder when it’s cold. Thinking of trading it in for a tundra lol
The big question here is, why are these so popular if they are so shitty?
Any one put 5w30 in there 2500 6.4
I dont have a truck, but have a 2021 dodge durango 5.7 and i got it brand new, and have done all my oils at 4500 times and i always use penzoil full synthetic 5w-20 what the engine says. And have never had an issue with hemi tick,but i put just premium fuel to tho
All that does is waste money. Higher octane resists detonation from high compression. That is all. Nothing more.
13 mpg, my guy how you driving that thing? I get 17-18 mpg with 1,000 lbs in the back daily
20 weight oil is just too thin for a v-8 truck.
I got a 2014 Chrysler 300s I believe my lifters need to be replaced it runs but runs rough and ticks the check engine light comes on and blinks if I accelerate too much. I bought a while cam and lifter set non mds from ams racing I hope this solves my issue. Looking for a high volume oil pump to add
Just get a hellcat oil pump💪
@@Black_Gun_Control I’m scared that may push out too much pressure and mess it up in the long run