Just an FYI: CBN abrasive, which can be used in stones and stropping compounds/emulsions, are also harder than any of the steels, so you could use that. No reason to since the diamond does the trick, and CBN is usually more expensive. So why does CBN even exist? Because it turns out that in POWERED SHARPENING, diamond wheels can degrade some steels. The carbon in the diamonds and carbon in the steels like to get together and do the nasty, and afterwards, there's no telling where they're going to set up housekeeping. This is only a problem in high speed powered sharpening, because it's heat related. Not a problem at all in hand sharpening.
I've been having microchipping issues with my 15V Spyderco Manix and Maxamet Manix 2 LW as well. I was really looking forward to hearing you thoughts when running into issues like this. I've been carrying knives for years and years and I never quite understood the appeal of these super hard steels. A blade chipping or breaking is literally the worse thing that can happen to a knife and I just don't understand why people would intentionally choose not having to sharpen it as often over toughness. So far my Native 5 Salt in magnacut is the best knife I've ever had. The Cruwear Manix 2 XL is a close second. they're so easy to sharpen and keep sharp and for their toughness and edge retention its amazing.
I totally empathized when you were talking about chipping during the deburr. I've owned a handful of maxamet knives and I discovered that the hard way. I've also found that using my DMT stones, I'd get comparatively more chips than on my bonded stones. I don't know if the deeper scratch pattern that you get on the DMT stones contributed to it. But I could still get good results. I also found that, specifically for Maxamet, I liked starting with a higher grit stone, even for reprofiling. Something like a 600-800 stone finishing on a 1200+. Skipping out on the 3-400 grit stones. I do my best, again, for Maxamet specifically, to not allow a noticeable burr to form. Once/if I get a a fat burr, I know I messed up. Keep that burr miiiiiicro. Trust your holds/angles. I know, when reprofiling/fixing up the factory edge, it's really difficult to do that. I usually do an initial "reprofile" job when I get the knife. Get the bevel looking like I want to. Then I go back through again to get the edge I actually want. Followed by a basswood strop progression. Really asinine lol. At the end of the day though, you're going to figure out what works for you! I just wanted to share my experience.
LOL @ "the hairs were running away".. What's weird is that the same thing's been happening to the top of my head and a knife hasn't even been near it!! 🤣The combined bling of the chain, bracelet & that edge was so blindingly bright that I had to put on sunglasses to even see you in the video! 😂 That doggie slip is gorgeous! You shave your arms?!? I still love your nerdy ass anyway❤🥰
If I can suggest: Your stones should be less than double the grit on the next stone, too far apart will take too long and will cause you to use more pressure to speed it up; One or more stones under 325 G would speed up the reprofiling; Check the edge repeatedly as you sharpen each side, use a 10x magnifier if it helps, is what you are doing to the blade what you intended? if you see a burr develop, flip the side and pass gently until it's under control; Japanese samurai swords require 10 stones to sharpen, each new stone they change the angle to see the effect. Carpenters maybe get by with maybe 6 or 7. The more stones in the sequence, the easier the sharpening and the faster you finish. Applies to water stones as well as diamond stones. Please don't blame Maxamet, it wasn't his fault.
So for myself i found reading the science of sharp by wade on s110v was really illuminating when we are dealing with these new powdered steels. The biggest take away is we do damage sharpening traditional ways looking to get a burr is counter productive. You are profiling the vanadium crystals and the matrix holding them in place...2 different things. Jagged or toothy edges are significantly better. Stroping motion on stones is preferred as well especially past 300g. Anyway everyone who sharpens should digest what wade says in the article, and throw in a lil bit of cliff stamps you tubes. Burring is not the way for these high hrc steels. Love the sound of this steel on paper.
I concure. Sharpening isn't what it used to be. With my k390 and alike, I use minimal pressure, go slow and down in a stroping motion. It gets stupid sharp, very quick. I've changed the way I sharpen, and it just takes me a few strokes and a couple of minutes to clean up a blade.
I found your video very interesting & informative. When I started collecting pocket knives I used to look forward to acquiring the next knife. Now, I love free hand sharpening them. Great video, Erica.
Super cool video thanks for the info! I’m new to the knife community, and I have never sharpened a knife before, and you totally just gave me motivation to start learning.
Great explanation and fantastic sharpening job! My wonky 72-year-old hands could never do what you do with diamond sharpening stones. But it's great to see your process and results. I also use Sharpening Supplies, got my strop from them, and I watch their videos.
Thanks for this detailed video and appreciated the intro on the dmt stones and gear very well informative and always enjoy your videos after a long day at work. Take care
Very nice! I’ve noticed a lot of knives have “divots” toward the heel of the blade that take a while to sharpen out. Buck is bad for it and I’ve noticed they have been burning their edges lately. I purchased a Buck 112 TRX with S30V recently. Completely burnt edge and uneven. Took a long time to even the edge and get all of the factory grind lines out
i use my spyderco ceramic stones to touch up my maxamet manix and it brings it back to razor sharp. I believe this is sort of a myth that you need diamonds. When i am doing a full sharpening, I start with venev diamond on the low grit and when finishing I still use fine ceramics.
I’m surprised I haven’t chipped my ZDP-189 Spyderco I’ve been abusing recently, that steel has done amazing for me EDC’ing it for EVERYTHING, very surprised, it takes a crazy keen edge too!! Last month I chipped out m390 on a Reate with a thick factory edge, don’t even know how it could have happened
Thanks for sharing about your experience with sharpening Maxamet and also comparing it to REX45. I don't own a knife in either blade steel yet, but I do have a Spyderco Dragonfly 2 in zdp-189 and I found it very fiddly to sharpen. I found running the edge through the off cut end of a block of wood in between changing diamond grits to debur it worked well though. 👍 I don't know how well that trick would work with Maxamet though. 🤔Anyway, excellent video and I appreciate what you do. Take good care and Cheers!
I guess I’ve been lucky with my para3 Maxamet. Haven’t had any real issues sharpening yet but it does take me a while. I don’t put a polish edge on it. I prefer a little bit of a toothy edge based on what I’m using it for. With that said, your sharpening skills are epic! And patience to the highest level.
Very interesting indeed. After all that work it must be a bummer to get those micro chips. I don't think I'll go for such hard steels. As you say Maxamet isn't made for knives. I don't know about edge retention. Most carbon steels or mid range steels strop up very easily.
It will be good,bet the chipped section will be better for cutting things like rope, kinda like a serrated edge, you have more experience with skills for that steel now, show them chips of wisdom off, thats why i probably will never own anything more exotic than s30v, everything will get dull sometime so balance the stay sharp time against the touch up time and equipment, great content, especially about the fresh steel past the factory edge
I used my venev stones to put an edge on my para 3 maxamet today and went good I took it to a 400 edge on venev is more like 600 and didn’t go any higher just following neeves advice saying maxamet don’t like a polished but I will find out shortly but seems pretty damn sharp to me lol keep up the good work
The hares ran away so the dog's did not have rabbit stew today. Most wouldn't have said anything about being chippy when putting a new edge on a blade. Take care and have a good birthday week.
Sweet thanks for the info... Ya i did not know rex45 was that hard until i had to sharpen it but once u have that ideal edge stays sharp for donkeys .Your edge is very very nice!!!
I wonder if flipping more during sharpening could avoid the break off? By that I mean you could *still* sharpen out all of the factory scratches, but by grinding a bit on each side at a time? In regards to whether Rex or Maxamet holds a better edge, I found some info from a few years back on a spyderco forum: Maxamet is run harder and has almost 3 times as much carbide as CPM REX 45. CPM REX 45: 1. 65 - 67 RC (Spyderco's HT) 2. Around 8% carbide volume Maxamet: 1. 67 - 69 RC (Spyderco's HT) 2. Around 22% carbide volume The forum stated Maxamet gives you much higher wear resistance at the expense of some edge stability (though it's still really strong); CPM REX 45, with its lower carbide volume, will give you very high edge strength at the expense of raw wear resistance. Maxamet will out-cut CPM REX 45, but REX 45 will be more forgiving if you accidentally torque the edge or something. Forum members stated that they both seem pretty similar regarding corrosion resistance, but the REX 45 might be slightly better than Maxamet in this respect.
@@ericasedc No probs.. lol btw after you made a whole video recommending S45, I have ended up with a Maxamet PM2 😆 I found one on offer and was forced to buy through the extreme maxamet envy your recent vids have induced. I promise to try S45 asap though 😄
I'll stick with my preferred steels. 01, 1095, 52100. I guess I'm old school. I spent several hours re-profiling D2 once. Although I now love that knife, I haven't bought D2 since. I'm sorry, I think this obsession with "super steels" is insane. Industry marketing gone way too far! Although, I am kinda fond of Busse SR-101 steel.
Thank for the great video. As you know high rockwell steels are more prone to chipping than softer steels. The truth is that a knife is really used for many task other than cutting paper or shaving arm hair. There are better tools for this being sccisors and a razor blade. So maxamet would not be my choice for regular use knife.
Powder and Hardness equals chips I suppose E+T=❤ Home from hospital Doctor CT scan was negative Endoscopy was negative Doctor said that procedure went perfectly and everything is going great for major surgery at end of September Daughter brought my two youngest grandchildren to the hospital and the hugs really did me good before surgery and their presence really helped Grandma out Love you like family and you know I love my family
It might take some time to get the result of a fine honed edge but it’s rewarding because most people can’t do it . Besides the knife community folks . A lot just aren’t into it . I like it 👍. Obsessing over an edge , lol . Remember that guy Erica , lol .
2 hours? Yikes! I think ill stick with K390 and M4 for edge retentive steels. I am curious about trying 4V and Cruwear though for some even harder use blades. I shouldnt be surprised but I just had to take chips out of a S30V Spyderco shaman that i gave my brother last Christmas. he got a job stocking shelves at a gas station convenience store and wacked the edge on several soda cans... I owned that specific knife for 6 months, took it to the woods and pushed it without any issues and he mangaged to mangle it in a month at his summer job... SMH. So I think i need to find a tough but somewhat edge retentive steel for him so he doesnt keep destroying the edge on his shaman, if i didn't like my Demko AD-20 slim in 3V so much then i would probaly give him that and see what he could do to it but i like it to much and it isnt the easiest to get ahold of another one.
I believe Maxamet performs the best with a 600 or 800 grit because of its very large vanadium carbides. Ive polished Maxamet before and I think you will find that your edge quickly degrades to a “working” edge.
@@ericasedc also ive got some knives you may be interested in testing and reviewing. What would be the best way to het that list to you? If your even interested in something like that.
@ericasedc got my last spydie coming a pm2 purple g10 cruwear I found on dlt. Still in stock for $180 and para 3s for 187 free shipping. I'm so excited 😊 I'm a ravens fan and it was my gmas favorite color R.I.P gma. But this one will be my favorite 🙌 💜
“Flip me over now, and apex me”
I sorta dig that😂
Just an FYI: CBN abrasive, which can be used in stones and stropping compounds/emulsions, are also harder than any of the steels, so you could use that. No reason to since the diamond does the trick, and CBN is usually more expensive. So why does CBN even exist? Because it turns out that in POWERED SHARPENING, diamond wheels can degrade some steels. The carbon in the diamonds and carbon in the steels like to get together and do the nasty, and afterwards, there's no telling where they're going to set up housekeeping. This is only a problem in high speed powered sharpening, because it's heat related. Not a problem at all in hand sharpening.
🥰🥰
They should come the way you sharpened it. Really beautiful result, Erica 🤩
I really appreciate that! Thank you!
I've been having microchipping issues with my 15V Spyderco Manix and Maxamet Manix 2 LW as well. I was really looking forward to hearing you thoughts when running into issues like this. I've been carrying knives for years and years and I never quite understood the appeal of these super hard steels. A blade chipping or breaking is literally the worse thing that can happen to a knife and I just don't understand why people would intentionally choose not having to sharpen it as often over toughness. So far my Native 5 Salt in magnacut is the best knife I've ever had. The Cruwear Manix 2 XL is a close second. they're so easy to sharpen and keep sharp and for their toughness and edge retention its amazing.
The 15V should not be doing that! Very interesting.
I totally empathized when you were talking about chipping during the deburr.
I've owned a handful of maxamet knives and I discovered that the hard way.
I've also found that using my DMT stones, I'd get comparatively more chips than on my bonded stones.
I don't know if the deeper scratch pattern that you get on the DMT stones contributed to it. But I could still get good results.
I also found that, specifically for Maxamet, I liked starting with a higher grit stone, even for reprofiling.
Something like a 600-800 stone finishing on a 1200+. Skipping out on the 3-400 grit stones.
I do my best, again, for Maxamet specifically, to not allow a noticeable burr to form.
Once/if I get a a fat burr, I know I messed up.
Keep that burr miiiiiicro. Trust your holds/angles.
I know, when reprofiling/fixing up the factory edge, it's really difficult to do that. I usually do an initial "reprofile" job when I get the knife. Get the bevel looking like I want to. Then I go back through again to get the edge I actually want. Followed by a basswood strop progression. Really asinine lol.
At the end of the day though, you're going to figure out what works for you!
I just wanted to share my experience.
That actually really makes sense!
LOL @ "the hairs were running away".. What's weird is that the same thing's been happening to the top of my head and a knife hasn't even been near it!! 🤣The combined bling of the chain, bracelet & that edge was so blindingly bright that I had to put on sunglasses to even see you in the video! 😂 That doggie slip is gorgeous! You shave your arms?!? I still love your nerdy ass anyway❤🥰
I love you mostest Jesse!!!!!❤
If I can suggest:
Your stones should be less than double the grit on the next stone, too far apart will take too long and will cause you to use more pressure to speed it up;
One or more stones under 325 G would speed up the reprofiling;
Check the edge repeatedly as you sharpen each side, use a 10x magnifier if it helps, is what you are doing to the blade what you intended? if you see a burr develop, flip the side and pass gently until it's under control;
Japanese samurai swords require 10 stones to sharpen, each new stone they change the angle to see the effect. Carpenters maybe get by with maybe 6 or 7. The more stones in the sequence, the easier the sharpening and the faster you finish. Applies to water stones as well as diamond stones.
Please don't blame Maxamet, it wasn't his fault.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
So for myself i found reading the science of sharp by wade on s110v was really illuminating when we are dealing with these new powdered steels.
The biggest take away is we do damage sharpening traditional ways looking to get a burr is counter productive.
You are profiling the vanadium crystals and the matrix holding them in place...2 different things. Jagged or toothy edges are significantly better. Stroping motion on stones is preferred as well especially past 300g.
Anyway everyone who sharpens should digest what wade says in the article, and throw in a lil bit of cliff stamps you tubes.
Burring is not the way for these high hrc steels.
Love the sound of this steel on paper.
Thanks so much for your input! I appreciate it!
I concure. Sharpening isn't what it used to be. With my k390 and alike, I use minimal pressure, go slow and down in a stroping motion. It gets stupid sharp, very quick. I've changed the way I sharpen, and it just takes me a few strokes and a couple of minutes to clean up a blade.
I found your video very interesting & informative. When I started collecting pocket knives I used to look forward to acquiring the next knife. Now, I love free hand sharpening them. Great video, Erica.
That means a lot to me! Thank you! ❤
Super cool video thanks for the info! I’m new to the knife community, and I have never sharpened a knife before, and you totally just gave me motivation to start learning.
Great explanation and fantastic sharpening job! My wonky 72-year-old hands could never do what you do with diamond sharpening stones. But it's great to see your process and results. I also use Sharpening Supplies, got my strop from them, and I watch their videos.
They are awesome
Thanks for this detailed video and appreciated the intro on the dmt stones and gear very well informative and always enjoy your videos after a long day at work. Take care
Thanks for watching!
Very nice! I’ve noticed a lot of knives have “divots” toward the heel of the blade that take a while to sharpen out. Buck is bad for it and I’ve noticed they have been burning their edges lately. I purchased a Buck 112 TRX with S30V recently. Completely burnt edge and uneven. Took a long time to even the edge and get all of the factory grind lines out
Noticing the same thing here!
Great job!! Love the look of that edge
Thanks a bunch Dave! ❤
Thanks for all the info and comparisons. Makes me regret selling my pm3 lw in rex45 lol. Nice patina and edge on that Case too!
i use my spyderco ceramic stones to touch up my maxamet manix and it brings it back to razor sharp.
I believe this is sort of a myth that you need diamonds.
When i am doing a full sharpening, I start with venev diamond on the low grit and when finishing I still use fine ceramics.
how long does it take you thougH?
@@fredp1983 not long, feels about the same as a very hard stainless like m390 or magnacut
Super informative Erica!! Keep em coming! ❤
Thanks for the continued support! ❤
You’re very knowledgeable! Good stuff! 👍
Thank you. I am learning everyday!
I’m surprised I haven’t chipped my ZDP-189 Spyderco I’ve been abusing recently, that steel has done amazing for me EDC’ing it for EVERYTHING, very surprised, it takes a crazy keen edge too!! Last month I chipped out m390 on a Reate with a thick factory edge, don’t even know how it could have happened
Oh wow!
Thank you Erica!
Thank YOU for watching!
I love the way you do your reviews and how much time and effort you put into fully exploring and learning steels and how they perform!
Thanks for sharing about your experience with sharpening Maxamet and also comparing it to REX45. I don't own a knife in either blade steel yet, but I do have a Spyderco Dragonfly 2 in zdp-189 and I found it very fiddly to sharpen. I found running the edge through the off cut end of a block of wood in between changing diamond grits to debur it worked well though. 👍 I don't know how well that trick would work with Maxamet though. 🤔Anyway, excellent video and I appreciate what you do. Take good care and Cheers!
I have heard that trick and used it before!!! Love it! Cheers ST!!!
Very nice great job! Have a wonderful day!
Enjoy your week Mike! Thanks for always watching and commenting!
Informative. I love your work.
I really appreciate you watching❤
I can only pray someday that my sharpening skills would be an Nth as good as yours. 🙏🏼 You're such a pro. 💯👊🏻
Far from it. But thank you so much!!!!
Mad skills 👏🫡
Thanks!❤
Great information 👍 and great video thanks for sharing. Have a awesome evening 🙏
Thank you so much! Have a wonderful evening yourself!
I guess I’ve been lucky with my para3 Maxamet. Haven’t had any real issues sharpening yet but it does take me a while. I don’t put a polish edge on it. I prefer a little bit of a toothy edge based on what I’m using it for. With that said, your sharpening skills are epic! And patience to the highest level.
Thank you so much!!!!❤
Very interesting indeed. After all that work it must be a bummer to get those micro chips.
I don't think I'll go for such hard steels. As you say Maxamet isn't made for knives.
I don't know about edge retention. Most carbon steels or mid range steels strop up very easily.
I was a little bummed out for sure.
Nice looking edge! And thanks for the great info on how this steel sharpens. Cheers, E!
David! Hope you had a wonderful day brother.
It will be good,bet the chipped section will be better for cutting things like rope, kinda like a serrated edge, you have more experience with skills for that steel now, show them chips of wisdom off, thats why i probably will never own anything more exotic than s30v, everything will get dull sometime so balance the stay sharp time against the touch up time and equipment, great content, especially about the fresh steel past the factory edge
Thanks for watching!❤
I used my venev stones to put an edge on my para 3 maxamet today and went good I took it to a 400 edge on venev is more like 600 and didn’t go any higher just following neeves advice saying maxamet don’t like a polished but I will find out shortly but seems pretty damn sharp to me lol keep up the good work
Thanks for tuning in!
Thank you beloved Erica A day of beauty to you - See you in the following video 💜🌞💜
Thanks for always watching!
Erica i thought u sold all ur knives? U still have rexy45 good 4 u keeping them, keep the vids coming we are always watching.
Yep I did sell the collection . Thanks for watching and commenting!
The hares ran away so the dog's did not have rabbit stew today.
Most wouldn't have said anything about being chippy when putting a new edge on a blade.
Take care and have a good birthday week.
All my love to you Mike!!!!
Sweet thanks for the info... Ya i did not know rex45 was that hard until i had to sharpen it but once u have that ideal edge stays sharp for donkeys .Your edge is very very nice!!!
Thanks Don!!!🎉
Nice edge! Do you find your diamond plates get finer with extended use?
Yes! Absolutely.
I wonder if flipping more during sharpening could avoid the break off? By that I mean you could *still* sharpen out all of the factory scratches, but by grinding a bit on each side at a time?
In regards to whether Rex or Maxamet holds a better edge, I found some info from a few years back on a spyderco forum:
Maxamet is run harder and has almost 3 times as much carbide as CPM REX 45.
CPM REX 45:
1. 65 - 67 RC (Spyderco's HT)
2. Around 8% carbide volume
Maxamet:
1. 67 - 69 RC (Spyderco's HT)
2. Around 22% carbide volume
The forum stated Maxamet gives you much higher wear resistance at the expense of some edge stability (though it's still really strong); CPM REX 45, with its lower carbide volume, will give you very high edge strength at the expense of raw wear resistance.
Maxamet will out-cut CPM REX 45, but REX 45 will be more forgiving if you accidentally torque the edge or something.
Forum members stated that they both seem pretty similar regarding corrosion resistance, but the REX 45 might be slightly better than Maxamet in this respect.
Thanks for watching and commenting!!!
@@ericasedc No probs.. lol btw after you made a whole video recommending S45, I have ended up with a Maxamet PM2 😆
I found one on offer and was forced to buy through the extreme maxamet envy your recent vids have induced.
I promise to try S45 asap though 😄
@@DamienNeverwinter get on that!
If you could only keep the spy27, Maxamet or Rex 45 native 5 which one would you choose?
I don’t have SPY27. I sold it a long time ago! But out of that line up- REX45 all the way.
That’s crazy how much work you had to put in to get the bevel smoother!! Great job!’
Ill be corse since you extra fine 😅 great work on edge hun very good info as well need get me a dtrop and emulsion
Love ya G!
Your sharpening skills give me 🪵🪓
❤
That's the exact reason I didn't keep my Maxamet Native. It wasn't worth the hype to me.
I understand❤
@@ericasedc It's possible I just needed to give it more time and a few more sharpenings. Hopefully you won't see any more issues.
I wish I had friends that would let me shave them with my pocket knife...
I shaved your mom last night!
That’s a sexy edge!
Almost as sexy as you😻
I made a basefoot for a lamp always finds uses for knives 😁
Yay!
I'll stick with my preferred steels. 01, 1095, 52100. I guess I'm old school. I spent several hours re-profiling D2 once. Although I now love that knife, I haven't bought D2 since. I'm sorry, I think this obsession with "super steels" is insane. Industry marketing gone way too far! Although, I am kinda fond of Busse SR-101 steel.
I hear ya!
Thank for the great video. As you know high rockwell steels are more prone to chipping than softer steels. The truth is that a knife is really used for many task other than cutting paper or shaving arm hair. There are better tools for this being sccisors and a razor blade. So maxamet would not be my choice for regular use knife.
Powder and Hardness equals chips I suppose
E+T=❤
Home from hospital Doctor CT scan was negative Endoscopy was negative Doctor said that procedure went perfectly and everything is going great for major surgery at end of September
Daughter brought my two youngest grandchildren to the hospital and the hugs really did me good before surgery and their presence really helped Grandma out
Love you like family and you know I love my family
Omg FANTASTIC NEWS! I love you T!!!! The MOSTEST! ❤🎉
It might take some time to get the result of a fine honed edge but it’s rewarding because most people can’t do it . Besides the knife community folks . A lot just aren’t into it . I like it 👍. Obsessing over an edge , lol . Remember that guy Erica , lol .
Bahahaha I recall that topic
2 hours? Yikes! I think ill stick with K390 and M4 for edge retentive steels. I am curious about trying 4V and Cruwear though for some even harder use blades. I shouldnt be surprised but I just had to take chips out of a S30V Spyderco shaman that i gave my brother last Christmas. he got a job stocking shelves at a gas station convenience store and wacked the edge on several soda cans... I owned that specific knife for 6 months, took it to the woods and pushed it without any issues and he mangaged to mangle it in a month at his summer job... SMH. So I think i need to find a tough but somewhat edge retentive steel for him so he doesnt keep destroying the edge on his shaman, if i didn't like my Demko AD-20 slim in 3V so much then i would probaly give him that and see what he could do to it but i like it to much and it isnt the easiest to get ahold of another one.
I looooove K390!
C =2,15 Cr= 4,75 w=13 v=6 co=10 Mn=0,3 s=0,07 Si=0,25 High alloy non stainless High speed tool steel. How compares to Rex 121?
please explain...
Carbon, Chrome, tungsten, vanadium, Cobalt, manganese, sulfur, silicon. Chemical abravisions with Volumen percentage @@fredp1983
I chiped my s90v like crazy before i even realized it ...I won't buy maxamit it won't hang i know it
I hear ya!❤
I believe Maxamet performs the best with a 600 or 800 grit because of its very large vanadium carbides. Ive polished Maxamet before and I think you will find that your edge quickly degrades to a “working” edge.
Yes! I am sure. We shall see!!!
@@ericasedc im subscribed so in a month or so ill be sure to watch your upload
@@ericasedc also ive got some knives you may be interested in testing and reviewing. What would be the best way to het that list to you? If your even interested in something like that.
@@samuraiS30v I honestly have so many knives to test- I can’t keep up! Thank you so much for the offer though!!!
@@ericasedc 10-4. Let me know if you are ever ready for a 52100 manix 2
Let me know how the polish works with maxamet
Sure thing!!!!
@@ericasedc you rock
That sucks that it chipped but it looks great.
Thank you!!!!❤
that mirror looks sexi af
Thank you!❤
You did a good job evening out the bevel height. I dread it.
It was spooky but I did it! 😅
Atoma 140 for reprofiling
I do the same thing than strop on 1 micron diamond spray and the green polish on the other side.
Nice❤
@ericasedc got my last spydie coming a pm2 purple g10 cruwear I found on dlt. Still in stock for $180 and para 3s for 187 free shipping. I'm so excited 😊 I'm a ravens fan and it was my gmas favorite color R.I.P gma. But this one will be my favorite 🙌 💜
Carrying M4 all this month been very happy with it so far
I looooove M4
@@ericasedc I am definitely a fan.
🤜🔪🤛
❤
Nothing beats sitting 🪑 for hours sharpening, for myself it’s super relaxing. I just get in zone and then away I go !!!
Yes it’s very therapeutic for me as well! ❤