It's very nice that you included mistakes and fixes for said mistakes. Paints a broader picture when it comes to understanding how much work actually goes into something like this.
Got my shapokeo 5 a few months ago and have only recently been able to get back into cnc. It’s videos like this that give me the boost and clarity needed to get back into the hustle. Keep em coming 🙏
Outstanding video. Ditto to the comments on including mistakes, working through the failures, and ongoing learning. Finding the right mix of node editing vs. redrawing new shapes is so important in the workflow. I do inlays on the Nomad in a public forum so don't have the ability to keep alignments over time period of days but have learned (by experience) how to cut each layer/wood species of a small and simple inlay. It is all about applying concepts, as shared in this video, to your specific situation. This video gave me some new ideas.
Right on Greg. I've definitely seen your work on the forum. Good stuff. On NOMAD, you can create Known Offsets. The workflow is the same, just on a smaller bed.
Kevin & Carbide3D are truly the best!! Great Video & I appreciate you even showing all the errors. Also I see nothing wrong with anyone buying already made panels/blocks etc etc (whatever). It depends on every individuals time constraints & or financial situation. Though I can definitely tell from your situation it was the time…. As I’ve never seen anyone make & use an inlay butcher block in 3 minutes time. 😉 Merry Christmas Kevin & All The Rest Of My Carbide3D Family! ✌️
Great job and video as always! Question though... All of this inside Carbide Create? How did you get it to raster cut when you were surfacing and flattening the plugs? I did not think this was an option in CC?
If you would like to try some really interesting but rather expensive material to cut and perhaps inlay, try carbon fibre sheet. I use CF for making clock gears, motorcycle parts, and many other things. I normally use 4mm sheet ( the sheet size is about 10" x 20" ) that I bought online. I do use 2mm occasionally and, for its thickness, it's super tough. It's a dream to cut but a vacuum is really important as the resulting dust is a bit toxic. Use 1/16" end mills although I prefer 1/16" burrs. The edges need little to zero sanding. You can cut through 4mm CF in 3 passes or less. CF is a bit hard on tools. If I could do all of my projects in CF where I would otherwise use aluminum or sometimes wood, I would.
Hey Michael, I was creating the vectors for that pattern while simultaniously asking the software team to get us a facing toolpath in Create. The software team came just recently. The newest Beta Version of Carbide Create Pro has a facing toolpath incorporated. Download it here: carbide3d.com/carbidecreate/beta/
This makes me want to try Carbide Create again as a general drafting tool for making vector files. I can create DXF files with AutoCAD, but they sometimes don't play with well with some of my CAM software. I bet I could do what I need with Carbide Create, if I spent a little time getting more familiar with it. Thanks.
The typical pattern is this: Get into CNC / Use Carbide Create / Decide Carbide Create is too limiting for my dreams of CNC greatness / Pay for Fusion / Use Fusion to 1/10th it's capability, but make some interesting stuff / Think "Maybe Create would be easier for these basic projects" / Try Create again / Discover, yes Create is more efficient for a wide array of projects. This is how it went for me before I worked for Carbide 3D. Each software has its strengths and weaknesses. - Create = Fantastic for 3D Topographic and Artistic elements / Fusion = Horrible for this application - Fusion = Terrific for parametric modeling and making technical parts / Create = Challenging for defined slopes and lofts I own many hammers. Each one can drive nails. But each one excels with a particular type of nail. Software = Hammer CNC Projects =- Nails - Kevin
If those boards were soaked in mineral oil, surfacing them may not be enough to remove the residual oil and cause your glue ups to fail. Just a thought..
Current quality of build $50@ is a good mark. With the process refined, that many material changes would carry a higher price. $800 to $1000. This charge depends greatly on the design work required. Original design plus many inlays = $1000+ all day.
WAAAAAY too many. But this is the front end. There's never an immediate return on investment for project #1. Like anything, the return comes on effort #3. By then, my skills have progressed, and my output quality has risen. These two factors lead to an increase in margin. Refining the design into cuttable elements and deciding on the overlaps sucked up the most time. The key here is understanding the limitations of the materials and the overall final look in the board. Proportionality....... Second on the time suck list was the making of plugs. As I mentioned in the video, the total time would be cut by 2/3 for board #2. The best thing to do is go full send on build 1. And don't worry about having it come out perfect. Then, take what you learned and go again. - Kevin
It's very nice that you included mistakes and fixes for said mistakes. Paints a broader picture when it comes to understanding how much work actually goes into something like this.
Thanks for the feedback, Sara!
Got my shapokeo 5 a few months ago and have only recently been able to get back into cnc. It’s videos like this that give me the boost and clarity needed to get back into the hustle. Keep em coming 🙏
Let’s go!!!! Get out and make something fun.
Love the humour in ALL videos
Thanks for "getting us".
Outstanding video. Ditto to the comments on including mistakes, working through the failures, and ongoing learning. Finding the right mix of node editing vs. redrawing new shapes is so important in the workflow. I do inlays on the Nomad in a public forum so don't have the ability to keep alignments over time period of days but have learned (by experience) how to cut each layer/wood species of a small and simple inlay. It is all about applying concepts, as shared in this video, to your specific situation. This video gave me some new ideas.
Right on Greg. I've definitely seen your work on the forum. Good stuff.
On NOMAD, you can create Known Offsets. The workflow is the same, just on a smaller bed.
That's a nice build, sir. And it had some great tips for a similar project I have been simmering in my imagination. Many thanks
Hey David. We’re stoked to hear that. Be sure and show us your completed project either in the forum or on IG. Good luck!
Definitely on my list of projects for my new 5 Pro, thank you!!!
100%. We will definitely be making another board. We're so glad you enjoyed the video.
Its not about the destination, its about the (mid) journey!
Hey yooooooooo...!
"Don't forget to flip your artwork, because you _will_ forget to flip your artwork." 😀
😂
Kevin & Carbide3D are truly the best!! Great Video & I appreciate you even showing all the errors. Also I see nothing wrong with anyone buying already made panels/blocks etc etc (whatever). It depends on every individuals time constraints & or financial situation. Though I can definitely tell from your situation it was the time…. As I’ve never seen anyone make & use an inlay butcher block in 3 minutes time. 😉
Merry Christmas Kevin & All The Rest Of My Carbide3D Family!
✌️
Thanks Pierce! Merry Christmas from all of us here at C3D.
As a cnc router and bmw 2002 owner, I approve of this.
YES!!! The wolfpack is growing
Great job and video as always! Question though... All of this inside Carbide Create? How did you get it to raster cut when you were surfacing and flattening the plugs? I did not think this was an option in CC?
The beta of Create Pro recently added a facing toolpath that can be use for surfacing/flattening.
@@carbide3d I need to check software updates more often! Just dropped $$ on Vetric V-pro. :(
If you would like to try some really interesting but rather expensive material to cut and perhaps inlay, try carbon fibre sheet. I use CF for making clock gears, motorcycle parts, and many other things. I normally use 4mm sheet ( the sheet size is about 10" x 20" ) that I bought online. I do use 2mm occasionally and, for its thickness, it's super tough. It's a dream to cut but a vacuum is really important as the resulting dust is a bit toxic. Use 1/16" end mills although I prefer 1/16" burrs. The edges need little to zero sanding. You can cut through 4mm CF in 3 passes or less. CF is a bit hard on tools. If I could do all of my projects in CF where I would otherwise use aluminum or sometimes wood, I would.
There will be a ton of CF work on the BMW. I'm sure some parts will end up on the channel here. 😉
How do you run the tool toolpathing to run side to side when flattening the plugs?
Hey Michael,
I was creating the vectors for that pattern while simultaniously asking the software team to get us a facing toolpath in Create.
The software team came just recently. The newest Beta Version of Carbide Create Pro has a facing toolpath incorporated.
Download it here: carbide3d.com/carbidecreate/beta/
Link to the cutting board you started with?
Hey Scott, I'll add this back to the description as well. Thanks for the note: a.co/d/hNESKyc
This makes me want to try Carbide Create again as a general drafting tool for making vector files. I can create DXF files with AutoCAD, but they sometimes don't play with well with some of my CAM software. I bet I could do what I need with Carbide Create, if I spent a little time getting more familiar with it. Thanks.
The typical pattern is this: Get into CNC / Use Carbide Create / Decide Carbide Create is too limiting for my dreams of CNC greatness / Pay for Fusion / Use Fusion to 1/10th it's capability, but make some interesting stuff / Think "Maybe Create would be easier for these basic projects" / Try Create again / Discover, yes Create is more efficient for a wide array of projects.
This is how it went for me before I worked for Carbide 3D. Each software has its strengths and weaknesses.
- Create = Fantastic for 3D Topographic and Artistic elements / Fusion = Horrible for this application
- Fusion = Terrific for parametric modeling and making technical parts / Create = Challenging for defined slopes and lofts
I own many hammers. Each one can drive nails. But each one excels with a particular type of nail.
Software = Hammer
CNC Projects =- Nails
- Kevin
If those boards were soaked in mineral oil, surfacing them may not be enough to remove the residual oil and cause your glue ups to fail. Just a thought..
Excellent thought, that definitely could be a factor.
Great video. Transition jingle not so much!
Alright David, Are you looking for a more hard rock transition or pure jazz?
How much would you ask for that if you decided to sell it? I’m thinking $500
Current quality of build $50@ is a good mark.
With the process refined, that many material changes would carry a higher price. $800 to $1000.
This charge depends greatly on the design work required. Original design plus many inlays = $1000+ all day.
Thanks for putting it in perspective. How many hours total would be the estimate to put in this project?
WAAAAAY too many. But this is the front end. There's never an immediate return on investment for project #1.
Like anything, the return comes on effort #3. By then, my skills have progressed, and my output quality has risen. These two factors lead to an increase in margin.
Refining the design into cuttable elements and deciding on the overlaps sucked up the most time. The key here is understanding the limitations of the materials and the overall final look in the board. Proportionality.......
Second on the time suck list was the making of plugs. As I mentioned in the video, the total time would be cut by 2/3 for board #2.
The best thing to do is go full send on build 1. And don't worry about having it come out perfect. Then, take what you learned and go again.
- Kevin
Are you going to share the cut settings? I’m tired of making firewood! 😂😂😂
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
What settings are you looking for?
@ depth of cut for the plug and mating end. My seating is off and there’s too much glue space and my gaps are inconsistent.
Plug Depth 3mm / Plug depth 2.5mm / Top Gap 1mm
Hmmm Ready Player Terminator One with Depression (s) and Bug(s)!! Ohh yeah bright future! Since Baby!! Hahahahaha as good/bad as we all🤣🤣🤣😭😭😭😎🤌