I enjoy watching how people do things when they have to make it happen Nothing like a hard headed person and Will power I’m retired diesel mechanic and I still love mechanic work and run a smart engine repair shop Love helping people 😊
Thanks for the comment Phillip, glad you enjoyed it! Yes I have had people say they admire my stick-to-it-tiveness, I guess I don't give up easy, have salvaged more than I've busted that way. I like Diesels too, grew up for 15 years in an '86 Chevy 6.2 Diesel Suburban (see my other videos), unkillable engine, really miss the sound and smell. Great to hear you help people out, I enjoy helping out people too, in fact what I'm doing, bit of this bit of that every day, mechanical like you/painting/electronics etc, sure beats an office job always something different. Keep it up, best wishes Phillip and Cheers!~ Bellarmine
I tried welding a nut to the rim and then using a bolt to pull it off. First I broke the bolt. Got the bolt out and went for a Grade 8. Bolt and my 1/2 impact. Stripped the threads in the nut. Fun stuff. I will be cutting the nut off and splitting the outer shaft. That should do it. In the past I have taken a piece of hose that will just fit over the shaft. Then take a hose clamp and tighten it up around the hose to hold it onto the shaft. On the open end fabricate a pipe fitting with an air fitting in it. Fill the fitting with your choice of penetrating oil and set your pressure on your air compressors about 50 Lbs making sure the compressor power is off. Attach the hose at the rim and go back to the compressor and attach the hose. This creates a pressure to force the fluid into the gap if any. Let it set for days. Making sure your compressor is powered down is important just in case your wheel actually blows off. I’ve only had it happen once. This also works great with frozen control cables and Emergency brake cables. Stick the cable and sheath into a hose, tighten down around the hose with a hose clamp and add penetrating oil to the hose. Add a fitting and some and let it set until you get oil out of the loose end.
Sounds like fun stuff indeed Richard! I hate rusty broken stripped bolts....:o) I've heard of people bending shop presses trying to get these off, rust is strong! Yes splitting the shaft hub should work, method of last resort at the end of my video. And you can still reuse your rim. That's a very good idea for pressure lubricating stuff with penetrating oil, even boat steering cables, I'll remember that for next time. Thanks very much for the comment Richard and Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Thank you. It helped me. I had wheels stuck on my snowblower. They had been lubed some by the manufacturer, so they weren't seized horribly. The one side came off alright after being broken loose. The second one had to be jacked all the way, using a large bolt to push on the axle with the jack, resetting a couple of times.
You're welcome, thanks for the comment on your success! Mine were the same, one popped off, other one had to pull it off all the way! Another story of rims 'welded' on - rust is amazingly strong lol.......:o) Glad it was helpful, best wishes and stay warm!~ Bellarmine
Wow, Great to hear Michael! So snowblowers have the same problem too, amazing...:o) So glad the video helped you out, thanks for commenting your success Michael - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
i just bought a bottle jack and thats going to be my first task. i like the idea because your not banging the shit out of your rim and the miss hits are more scary LOL!! GREAT STUFF!!
Thanks for the comment, glad it's helpful! Yes, I just HATE banging away on the rim, not to mention destroying the nice expensive transaxle.....:o) Good luck, let me know how it goes or if you have any other questions. Cheers! Bellarmine
Thanks .. i did the same with my old Scott's S1642 today .. i used a a heavy-duty ratchet strap (10000lbs) instead of a chain, but it did the trick no less. Thanks for the suggestion
You're welcome Stewy, real happy it helped you, I love to hear success stories...:o) That's actually a good idea you suggested, one can tighten the heavy-duty-straps and keep everything together easier, bit more forgiving. Thanks for the comment Stewy and Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Glad you liked it! Found the idea on a forum, thought I'd give it some more exposure after it helped me. Hope it helps you in future - thanks for the comment. Cheers! Bellarmine
Removing the tires at least once a year and greasing them will prevent this from happening. i would recommend every other oil change will also work. Just a reminder is all you need. Happy mowing.
Had this problem today - needed to change out a rotten tire. In the end I gave up trying to remove the rim, just cut the tire off and installed new tire with rim still on the shaft!
Well there you go, whatever works, if you were able to get the tire mounted still on the tractor more power to you! I wanted to swap my wheels between my two tractors (knobby tires for grass cutting, smooth tires with chains for snowblowing), so I thought that'd be a 15minute job.....I should have known better lol! I was looking at your channel, real interesting I've always loved model railways - also your demos of Thomas and Friends is great! I grew up watching the show, always liked the older seasons with the real model railways as opposed to the CGI - much more creative. I still have a lot of the old Playmobil brass track and cars and engines (compatible with LGB), had a blast with that, real durable stuff you can even put outdoors in the winter, think it is G gauge pretty big. Check out the fellow's channel, he's creating amateur episodes of Thomas and Friends and (of all things) Bambi! What he lacks in professional props and lighting he more than makes up in creativity - check it out: th-cam.com/channels/0-F-Tu3wjLyrmUxM-ySalA.html Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Wish I had seen this before I did the rear wheel on my 165 Hydro. I ended up sawing off the tire then sawing the rim off then taking a grinder and grinding the center hub of the wheel into and finally using a chisel to split the ground hub enough for it to break free from the axle. I tried beating with wood blocks and hammer then various gear pullers around the rim lip and heating the damn thing and nothing worked. I would love to have tried this because it just looks like it would do the job. Great thinking. If I have to fool with the other tire and rim I'll be giving this a try.
Thanks for the comment Johnny! Wow, sorry to hear about your ordeal, wish you had seen this first too, boy what a nightmare! You ended up doing what I call the 'last resort', splitting the hub as you say. Only difference is you can maybe save the rim by sawing through a hole in the rim as I explain at the end of the video. At least you didn't have to SAW OFF the axle and replace it, which I've heard is just what some JohnDeere dealers do (!). Unbelievable how these can be rusted on, heard stories of people putting the axle in 10ton shop presses and bending the presses, whew! Hope you have better luck next time if you have to mess with the other tire Johnny - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
I know what you mean Davis lol!.....:o) Try some Permatex Anti-Sieze grease on it if you do, that's what I'm going to use next time I have my wheels off. I also keep the tractor under cover which I am sure helps in the long run. Hope if you need to get them off, they come of a lot easier than mine - thanks for the comment Davis and Cheers!~ Bellarmine
It’s just smart to remove them when it’s brand new and antizee them then Hate that the sorry ass America manufacturing company don’t antizee them Piss poor attitude towards customers 😢
You're right, I'll go buy some for next time. I keep the tractor in the garage so rain shouldn't be a problem. Thanks for the comment and Cheers!~ Bellarmine
I've got seized drive wheels on my JD L130 and I'm sure going to give your method a try. I just tried your suggestion of possibly using 4x4s behind the wheel instead of your videoed example of 2x4s. In my case, they will just barely fit, but there's insufficient room for a stout chain to go behind them. I'd like to make a safety suggestion regarding your method. I've been taught to not use steel against steel, if possible, in such a situation due to the chance of slippage. I would suggest laying a 4x4 under the base of your jack, to protect against slippage, and make it the same length as your 2x4s, so that the chains across the tire are parallel and not biting into the tire.
Hi Jim, thanks for the comment. That's not a bad idea, makes good sense. Only thing is you'll have to take time to get everything positioned, I found it hard enough keeping the chains positioned behind the wheel and around the jack, without another board to hold in place, guess 4 hands would help lol! Good to hear that a 4x4 fits, if you don't care about them you could route-out or chisel a groove in them for the chains to ride in, still be a lot stronger than 2x4s. Thanks again for the idea Jim, I'll keep it mind. Let me know how it goes if you want or if you have any questions - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
@@bellarmine33 Thanks, Bellarmine, your suggestion just made it easier for me. The top inside routed 4x4 will easily lay on top of the flat of the axle housing. I'll drill vertical holes near the end of each 4x4 and hang the bottom one from the top one with bolts (but not snugly, allowing it to slide over the axle housing) so that I don't have to block up from the ground to hold it in place. As the chain makes the 90° turn outward at each end of the two 4x4s, I'll drive a nail through a chain link into the end of the 4x4 to hold it in place while getting everything set up. Obviously the outboard 4x4 and bottle jack will still need to be blocked up from the ground, and I think I'll route the outboard 4x4 also a short way in from each end just to make setting up the chain easier.
@@Jim700 Glad the suggestion is useful, you're welcome, your jig is sounding great. Only thing, I'd keep an eye on the 4x4 under your jack, I'm not sure how it will hold up to 10 to 20 tonnes of force, it might crack rather suddenly - maybe use 2, or a 6x6? Getting really heavy-duty here aren't we lol. I'd be interested to hear how it works out, keep me updated Jim, and good luck - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
@@Jim700 Oh, and P.S., in case you're not doing this already (I'm sure you are), don't forget the couple cans of P.B. Blaster for a day or two - not enough by itself but I am sure it helps!
Thanks for the comment, glad you found my puller video helpful. Here's hoping you were successful, these wheels can be VERY stubborn! Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Great video! I'm going to try it tomorrow. I greased my axle a few years ago and the grease just didn't hold the water out. I'd go with Permatex 80078 Anti-Seize. Works great on my boat prop and I wish I had used it on that axle. The boat is SS to aluminum so nickle Anti-Seize may be better on steel to steel (I always have extra when I do brakes on the car). Make more videos, we all need more horse sense in our lives! Thank you.
You're welcome Scott! Good luck tomorrow, I hope it works for you, let me know how it goes or if you have any questions. Yes, I greased up mine too, but like you just standard axle grease (guess I'll be doing this again in a couple years!). At least I am able to keep them out of the rain, which I imagine should help. Thanks for the tips on the anti-seize, and also your encouragement - yes, I have another video on the way showing an easier way to replace the A/C compressor on my Buick Roadmaster, along with a few general 'horse-sense' A/C service tips.....:o) Cheers Scott!~ Bellarmine
Good Job!!! Although we suppose to take the Wheel Off " each year " to grease it or better yet " anti-seized " it, but we don't. NOTE: Those Grease going to dry up in no time and you will be back to square one again, unless you are willing to do this every year.
Thanks Jordan! Yeah, guess I should re-grease them every so often if I get the chance so I don't have to do this all over again lol. Pretty troublesome design in my opinion. Funny - the other wheel almost slid right off. Maybe it'll help that I don't use the tractor all that often and I keep it under shelter when I'm not using it. Congratulations on your Bars Leaks victory over your head gasket leak! Had a head gasket leak on my old Chevy Corsica, and even after a head overhaul it still leaked a tiny bit. Cheers! Bellarmine
@@bellarmine33 - Yea, the Bars Leaks actually worked. I'm surprised myself. I did a Car + a Truck, omg both dry and worked so far. I don't know how long it will last! But no more starting issues and moisture problems!
Thanks for this! I was able to finally remove my tire with something simmilar to this. My jack also only worked standing up but I found it worked when the lever was on the bottom.
Wow, that's great news to hear, so glad my video helped you a bit. Yes, my jack didn't work all the way either, went out half way which was enough to get 'er done. Thanks so much for your feedback Howard, means a lot. Best wishes and Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Thanks! I may have to try this on my Toro 12/32 recycler rear engine riding mower. Got a slow leak in one of the back tires and I don't think the wheels have been off since new in 1992, lol. I took the cross bolt out and tried wiggling the tire but it's not gonna go.I did take a small bottle that fits snug on the hub, filled it with penetrating oil, then pressed it on so the axle will get a good soaking. I'm going to leave it like this till spring. Too cold to mess with it now. Thanks for the Vid. :)
You're welcome James, hope it works out for you in the Spring! Keep me updated with how it goes. That's a GREAT idea you have about finding a small bottle to stick on the hub full of penetrating oil - I will try that myself first next time. Best wishes, thanks for the comment and Cheers James!~ Bellarmine
Thanks for the comment! Yes, you're right, though I think they did do that at the factory, the trouble is the grease dries out after a few years, and the shaft and hub rust together. They even say in the owner's manual to "Remove the wheels and grease the shafts once a year". Who's got the time to do that? Anyway, for those of us who don't have the time to do that (like everyone lol), this is a pretty low-fuss alternative.....:o) Cheers! Bellarmine
You're right, I'm going to buy a bottle of Permatex at Princess Auto and next time I have the wheels off, I'll paint them all up! Glad you enjoyed it, cheers!~ Bellarmine
Thanks for your comment. Oh boy, nearly 50 years, that is a long time!...:o) When you get to it let me know if you have any questions, and also how it turns out using my method - success or failure (hope for the former...;o). Thanks for watching - Cheers! Bellarmine
i did the same putting lower ball joints in an 83 Capris Classic sat a bottle jack on a steel plate that i had tie downs welded too through the chain over the lower A arm instant press works well press/pull
Thanks for your comment. That is a good idea, I should make a plate like that. I will probably be replacing the ball joints on my '94 Buick Roadmaster soon (same car as your Caprice), so that might be helpful if I can't rent a ball-joint puller from Canadian Tire. Cheers!~ Bellarmine
You definitely have the right ideal of tapping on it, but you can tap on it while you have pressure pulling on it with your jack and chains then it should vibrate off. An air hammer works even better, and sometimes you can just use the air hammer alone, while just pulling the wheel outward with human force. But always use penetrating oil on all the seems, and especially when you get it to move, spray more on the exposed shaft part, then push the rim back on and it will help lube the inside of the hub and that make it slide off quicker and easier too. But if all else fails, i would never try cutting into the rim hub, instead use your set up with the jack and chains, plus penetrating oil, plus an air hammer directly on the shaft or the back of the jack while it is pulling with considerable force, vibrating the heavy shaft and hub. But like you said, not with a ton of force, just be firm enough to transfer some vibration into the steel and when you see it moving you know it will be fine. I mean if all else failed i would heat the rim cherry, use your jack and chains set up with the boards, and pull, and if needed, air hammer, and it can't stay on there then. But i mean before needing heating, i think your jack and chains, and a air hammer with penetrating oil would do it for 99% of the cases. It would do it on the first try if you did all three jack, hammer(while jack under pressure pulling, hammering on the heavy shaft or hub), oil.
Hi Tony, glad you think it's a good idea. I just don't like tapping or hammering / air-hammering the shaft because the transaxle is pretty weak that way - internal snap rings and so on. Seen a few bad examples of expensive damage, and don't want to experience one myself. You're right about the penetrating oil, I soaked it for days, and also after the wheel moved a bit, but still wasn't enough to get it off 1st try. I thought about using heat, but I've watched a few YT videos on the tires EXPLODING in your face, no matter how careful you are, even removing the valve core and breaking the bead. One tire company says the heat causes a chemical reaction in the tire that can cause a failure up to even 24 hours later......strange. Anyway I suppose some light tapping wouldn't hurt, though mine was stuck pretty good. Thanks for your comment and insight Tony - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Good Job! For your information and use the bottle jack side way, it works better if the pump side is on the bottom side, so it pick oil, I know it it’s inconvenient but it works
Glad it was helpful and thanks for jack tip Rosalio, yes awkward that say but makes sense, at least my big jack had enough oil to go half way out, which was enough to get the job done lol......:o) Best wishes Rosalio and Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Just wanted to tell you how I got my seized rear wheel off of the lawn tractor- I borrowed a 5 ton three arm puller from oreilly auto parts (they sell it to you then refund when you bring it back.) also used some pb blaster. Broke the bead on the wheel, the used the puller - 10 minutes and the wheel was off. 1/2 that time was spent finding things to extend the middle of the puller into the center of the wheel as the wheel was pulling off. I had to apply pressure until it was almost completely off. So, don’t bottle,jack it, use a 3 arm puller big enough to put all three arms on the wheel and line up with the axel your wheel is stuck on.
Glad you got your rim off! Thanks for the great idea, yes sounds like another really good method. Plus, like my method and unlike all the other methods, you still won't damage anything except perhaps your rim - easy way to apply a lot of force and get the job done - great job!~ Cheers! Bellarmine
Wonder Bread I wasn’t clear in my originL comment- orielly has a tool loaner program - you have to buy the tool, then return it for refund. So, since I followed their policy, my conscience is pretty clear.
Thanks for the comment, glad you found my puller video helpful. Here's hoping you were successful, these wheels can be VERY stubborn! Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Not a bad idea, though I don't like impacts / hammering on my transaxle internal snap-rings. Still, perhaps a bit might not hurt, though I'd try my 'safe n' easy' method first....:o) Thanks for the comment - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
i am going to try this today on my troy bilt horse tiller. good thing i already have everything needed and do not have to buy anything. i was thinking about designing a puller that i could use my bottle jack with but the chain method is simpler and looks very doable.
Hi Paul, thanks for your comment! Wish you luck, hope you were successful, and let me know if it worked or if you have any questions. As you've read, it's pretty simple, just take your time setting it up and make sure everything is straight and square so it doesn't spring back at you and you'll be fine - never did with me......:o) Cheers! Bellarmine
I just did the same thing this week, had to use metal bars in back because there was not a lot of room in the back. Use my chain and a 4 ton bottle jack. I had to use Duct tape to hole ever thing in place before I started working the Jack. I even posted a Video of it and then saw this video . lol
Hey, congratulations on getting your tire off, and figuring out the SMART way to do it! As I said, I got the idea from a forum; you figured it all out yourself, great! LOVED your video, getting your tire off using only red&green was amazing....lol....;o) Other watchers see his video below, he even has a couple ideas I didn't think of, like using a trolley jack to hold the bottlejack at just the right height. Thanks for the comment - cheers! Bellarmine th-cam.com/video/ncAi7xgmEpE/w-d-xo.html
i have a simplicity broadmore i got used 3 years ago. the tire just started going flat this fall. i couldn't get it off either. i bent a harmonic balancer puller trying to get it off. i'll try this next. thanks!
Great stuff, yes they almost appear to be welded on don't they? Crazy!...:o) Good luck, let me know how it goes or if you have any questions. Thanks for the comment - Cheers~! Bellarmine
Thanks for the tip. I only had the axle going about 60RPM (1 rev/sec), used to doing things like that for many years - if it hitched on something like the empty keyway I'd just let go, really nothing there to catch on anything....:o) Thanks for the comment, hope it was helpful - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Hi Tim, thanks for your question. No the jack won't 'hit' the board(s) placed underneath it, they shouldn't even get in the way or be an issue. I just placed them underneath the jack to hold it at the right place while jacking. Once there's tension on the chain they don't do too much, they remain loose and movable. Either way they won't be a problem....:o) Good luck with your wheel extraction, these can be Stubborn! Let me know how it goes or if you have any further questions, thanks Tim and Cheers!~ Bellarmine
You're welcome Bart, glad you liked the video and gave you some ideas, hope your back gets better right quick. Wish you success with your removal, these can be Stubborn! I would highly recommend spending $20 at your favorite Harbour Frieght or similar for a bottle jack. Screw thread pullers just can't equal the force of hydraulics, and believe me if it's anything like my wheel was you will need it! Let me know how it goes if you want Bart and Best wishes! Bellarmine
Hi Gary, Thanks for the question. It sure does work, there was no way I could even get at the keyway to remove it before getting the rusted wheel off. I think that may have been part of the problem with my wheel, it didn't use a keyway / square bar, but a woodruff key / halfmoon. I think the halfmoon 'may' have been jamming into the wheel rim slightly. In any case, yes this method definitely works whatever type of key you have. Good luck with your wheel removal, let me know how it goes if you want or if you have questions - Cheers Gary!~ Bellarmine
I used a steering wheel puller. First bolts broke in 2. Second bolts stripped the threads. Third bolts almost pulled through the rim. My impact gun only goes to 350 'lb. Torch heat and penetrating oil used too.
Wow, what an ordeal! At least you actually got them off, some people have bent shop presses and sawed off the axles to fix it, what a bad design! Try using AntiSeize for next time, people tell me it will help. Cheers David!~ Bellarmine
@@bellarmine33 No, it never came off. I bought a 2nd snowblower for $50.00 and used that wheel and axel. The 2nd one had anti seize on it. I also beat on it with a 5lb hammer every for weeks.
@@scratchcoderig Unbelieveable - someone said, you need Dynamite on these things! So the Anti-sieze does work, amazing. You should try my method I think it would work, has worked for nearly all the commenters on here, lot easier than tearing down your transaxle........:o) Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Yes, I've been using it for years, even on my car and truck wheels where the rim rust welds to the hub spindle. Unfortunately for me the previous owners never used it. It was a free snowblower project that needed a carb rebuild, fuel line, shutoff valve, tires, valves, belts a, a lot of penetrating oil ball joint grease and a rim.
this is pretty clever..ill keep this in mind if my otehr idea i found out here doesnt work which im thinking it wont but hopefully it will or one of them will my rim is seized on the bar.
Thanks for the comment, glad you found my puller video helpful. Hope either it or your method was successful getting your wheel off, these can be VERY stubborn...:o) Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Nice 165 👍 In the middle of a restoration on it's little brother (130) that has the identical problem on both sides. It was given to me as pretty much scrap sitting in a barn for 20 years. Thought for fun I'd get the little Kawi engine running... that lead to get the blade turning... that lead to make the mower better than new. Managed to heat one wheel up enough with a map gas torch to release it enough to move it about 3/4". Spraying it with Moovit for the next couple days and hoping it'll pop off. Not so confident with the other side though 😕 What a stupid design that could have been easily solved with 5 cents worth of never-seize from the factory.
Hi Mike, thanks for the comment! Nice that you're restoring the 130, good little tractors, I think tougher than the more modern ones. I like the way I can put a small car battery under the dash, rather than the tiny spots they give you under the seat. If you have problems with the starter clicking and not engaging now and then let me know I have an easy fix for that. About the wheel that budged 3/4", what I'd do is (gently) tap/whack it back in, then pull it out again, over and over, it'll eventually pop off. Mine did the same thing - what a pain! Yes, anti-sieze from the factory would have been good! I'll put some on next time I have them off, I keep the tractor under cover so the grease should last quite a while for now. Try my method for the other wheel it should do the trick, I hate using torches around tires heard some real horror stories even after removing the valve stem.....:o) Let me know if you need any manuals I have the factory shop and owner's manuals on my HDD if you haven't found them already, and also an extra 38" mower deck for parts if you need something......:o) Cheers Mike!~ Bellarmine
@@bellarmine33 my starter was randomly clicking and not moving. Decided to take it apart to find one of the magnets had exploded which locked up the starter. Have a new ignition switch, PTO switch, starter, all 4 tires, and new belts on the way which will smarten this thing up. Already put on a brand new carb, fuel pump, fuel lines and spark plug. Got her dialed in beautifully until the starter grenaded. Going to go "full monty" on it now I have the deck off. Pressure wash, paint and body are now on the growing list. I'm sure I could sell it for half of what I'll have into it 🤣
@@mikescott1050 Wow, sounds like it'll be like new when you're done, and yes you're sure to get maybe 25% back if you were to sell it lol. Isn't it always like that? Nothing more satisfying than getting a mechanical wonder purring again, quite a feeling. Check out my other video on my 1956 Johnson 30HP outboard, was a great thrill getting that one started after sitting for 35 years! I have to invest in paint, but it purrs like a Swiss watch. Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Not a bad idea. However I've found most scissor jacks are about 2 ton units, and as I said in my video I started with my 2 tonn bottle jack and it couldn't cut it, needed to upgrade to the 10 tonn model (!). The fluid wasn't a problem with the 2 ton jack as it was designed to be sideways, and for the 10 tonn jack I just screwed the extension out all the way to take up the slack and it was fine. Also it'd be a bit harder to position a scissor jack with the threaded rod sticking out etc etc. However could certainly try starting with one though, and upgrade to a hydraulic if it doesn't do the job. Thanks for the comment - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Thank you for the video. I had to remove a wheel from a go kart axle one time that was seized on like that and I managed to remove the axle assembly and take it to work to put in the press. I think it was only 25 tons but I had to max the thing out before it finally popped loose.
You're welcome Fred. Wow, a 25-ton press and it just barely did it - crazy. I've also heard a story or two of people bending their shop presses with these wheels, whew what a problem!! Glad you got it off, thanks for the comment - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
@@bellarmine33 It just goes to show how tight those things can be rusted on there. I made a piece of steel with a hole through it to go against the back of the wheel hub so I didn't bend the rim when pressing it because I'm sure it would have bent otherwise. I ended up not reusing the rims anyway though. They were too far gone.
That's great to hear, real glad it helped you! Hope you're joking about it literally 'saving your life' lol! Thanks for the comment, Cheers!~ Bellarmine
I have a 165 Hydro too, Well actually it is still at the Dump because there is too much Snow, but I should be able to get it out of there in the next few weeks.
Thanks for the comment! Sounds good Kevin, yes looks like Spring is finally on its way. If your wheels are stuck and you're going to give them another shot, I hope this video helps you out. Or let me know if you'd like any tips on your 165, fixed a tough no-start issue with mine, been using it to blow snow past 3 years, the Hydro sure is easier than gear drive, sure turns a chore into fun. Cheers Kevin! Bellarmine
You're welcome. Yeah, it's crazy how rusted on these can get, these things can max out 25tonn shop presses! You're not alone, I was starting to wreck my own rims before I tried this idea that works. Others haven't been so lucky, like pounding it to bits and wrecking their (expensive!) transaxle, to using a torch and having the tire blow up in their faces (!). Even though you damaged your rim, at least you did get it off, at a certain point I was almost ready to give up. Hope this helps you have better luck next time Brad, and thanks for the comment - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
I feel your pain, took me about a WEEK of working at it before I came up with this idea to get the stupid thing off! Let me know how it goes if you're successful or not, or have any questions. Best wishes and Good luck - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Thanks for the suggestion, sorry for the slow reply. Acetone is like nail polish remover or rubbing alcohol? I'll try it next time - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
I tried this. My wheel rim split off from the hub. Had to end up slitting the hub that was left on it and prying it open. Was on a Gilson rear engine rider with a unobtainable rear wheel. Had to end up finding a different wheel and cutting the hub down to make it work , sucked big time.
Sorry to hear about your ordeal Dennis, boy what a nightmare! You ended up doing what I call the 'last resort', splitting the hub as you say. At least you didn't have to SAW OFF the axle and replace it, which I've heard is just what some JohnDeere dealers do (!). Unbelievable how these can be rusted on, heard stories of people putting the axle in 10ton shop presses and bending the presses, whew! Better luck next time, take care and thanks for the comment Dennis - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Thanks very much for the idea. Took about 1hr to set up without chains falling off but the pressure of the bottle jack did much more than a hammer could do. Still didn't damage the axle. Jacl
Re: Evinrude -- local guy has an old Evinrude for $100 -- been sitting in his in-laws basement for 40 years.says it looks like new; not seized; can't remember rest of description. If you're interested I can get more info.
Hi, thanks for the comment! I'm not sure I'd be interested right now, I have enough motors to keep me busy at the moment, but if it's not too much trouble I would be interested to hear where it is/what do you mean by Local, and what horsepower/year/model it is. Might possibly know someone who might want it, you never know...:o) Thanks for your consideration - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
@@bellarmine33 Yesterday I had to cut the wheel into pieces to get it to release. 3 1/2" of direct contact wheel to axle bound by rust is a very strong grip, plus the expanding factor.....so much work for a small job. Getting ready for side 2.....
Aww boy, what a pain! Yes, what a lot of work for such a small thing, i just wanted to swap the wheels between my 2 tractors, never thought it'd be such an adventure lol. Perhaps you don't care about the wheel at this point, just want them OFF; but near the end of my video I show a last-ditch way to get the wheel off, and you can still use it afterwards. Just drill a 1/2" hole in the rim right above the hub, use a sawz-all to carefully cut a slot in the hub down to the axle, then flood it with PB Blaster, and use a cold chisel to spread the hub apart and it should break free. Still usable afterwards, the slot in the hub won't matter for a lawn-tractor going 5mph lol. Good luck with the other side, and maybe you'll be lucky - my wheel was frozen fast, but the other side came off pretty easy, never know....:o) Cheers!~ Bellarmine
@@bellarmine33 NO CENTER DRILLED INTO THE AXLE EITHER for the puller. Yesterday it took me 10 hrs to get the wheel off after cutting it. Worst job I ever had to do in 60+ years of mechanic work. Then when I got the new wheel/tire assembly today I had to clean the paint out of the bore and key-way....more work over nothing. You never paint tight tolerance surfaces! Now I have to remove the other wheel during the week....more hours wasted!
I hear you, everything is frustration these days about the simplest and most common-sense items! They should have masked the rim when it was painted, Chinese shortcuts I guess. The lack of a center in the axle didn't bother me because I didn't even bother trying a gear puller, NO WAY it would have exerted enough force to work. As I said in my video, my 3 TON bottle jack couldn't cut it (!). Hope one of my 2 methods helped you get the other wheel off with a minimum of fuss - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
I'm sure it will, if it has the some type of wheel mounting - rim with a bore sliding onto a shaft with a keyway / woodruffkey. People have told me they've done this on snowblowers and gocarts even...:o) Let me know how it goes or if you have any questions Chad. Thanks for the comment, Good luck and Cheers!~ Bellarmine
It's always one that gets you - was the same with my tractor, the first wheel came off easy, 2nd was welded on....:o) Wish you luck, let me know how it goes or if you have any questions - Cheers! Bellarmine
@@bellarmine33 same thing on the tines..one side tines came off easy but wheel would,nt..other side the wheel came off easy but the pin was stuck in the tines...had to drill the pin out
Yeah, both of mine are frozen. I thought I could replace the tires while the rims were stuck, but no such luck. I got one of the tires off, but that was the end of it. I bought a 12-ton hydraulic jack on sale 15 years ago at Harbor Freight for no particular reason, and now it's going to get its first use!
Thanks for the comment, great to hear! Yes, my 3 ton jack I first tried couldn't cut it, had to upgrade to "The Big One" lol! Good luck, let me know how it turns out, or if you have any questions - Cheers! Bellarmine
Yes, a portapower would be better, but I don't have one and also it' d be a little more awkward to position than the bottle jack. The fluid wasn't a problem with the 2 ton jack as it was designed to be sideways, and for the 10 tonn jack I just screwed the extension out all the way to take up the slack and it was fine. Thanks for the comment - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
I have to admit I would not have thought of such an ingenious method of removing a stuck wheel. More often than not, I reach for my torch to heat the affected area then tap the wheel loose. . Nice idea!!
Thanks, glad you like the idea! Yes, I thought about using a torch, I'm learning to use heat more and more to remove things. However, I watched a few YT videos on tires EXPLODING in your face when using a torch, no matter how careful you are, even removing the valve core and breaking the bead. One tire company says the heat causes a chemical reaction in the tire that can cause a failure up to even 24 hours later - they actually demonstrated it......weird. I'm always into trying 'last ditch effort' ideas, but from the sound of it a torch around tires just seemed a tad too dangerous for comfort...:o) Anyway at least this idea is here in case you get into a similar situation (hope not!...:o) Thanks for the comment - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
There must be a better way then this key system. Looks common for these wheels to seize onto the axle and be almost impossible to remove. Cant they have little wheel hubs like cars do?
Yes, that WOULD be nice, but I guess you have to get a bigger tractor for that. My Dad has a very nice Yard-Man 16HP Hydrostatic Garden tractor with small 3-point hydraulic hitch, it has wheel hubs splined to the axles and rims that bolt on with 4 bolts, MUCH nicer! Also actually, I've seen a small John Deere 108 that simply had a plate on the end of the shaft with 3 studs on it, 5 hole wheel bolted on to 3 studs(!) Cheap but works, so guess they can do it when they feel like it...:o) Thanks for the comment - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
@joshmanis9860 I used a blow torch the jack and a chain. It wouldn't move at all. I took it to the mower shop. They couldn't do it. They changed the tyres without removing the rims from the axle. Not sure how that works.
Hi Gary, Thanks for the question. Unless specified, bottle jacks don't work that well sideways (including mine). I think the internal jack oil reservoir is made differently. Mine would only extend about half way or less, so my solution was to start with the jack all the way down/retracted, and then screw the screw extension right out until it butts the axle, taking up all the slack. This way the jack starts pushing on the axle right away before the internal jack fluid reservoir runs out. My small Red 2ton runs out of fluid half-way when sideways, so I extended the screw extension which helped. The 20ton jack worked better, though still not perfectly. Maybe try buying a 20ton jack from Princess Auto / Harbour Freight, they go on sale for only $20 sometimes....:o) Hope this helps Gary, do let me know how it goes or if you have any other questions. Cheers!~ Bellarmine
@@bellarmine33 So, we were trying the get the wheel off a large John Deere tractor. We had that huge clamp plate loose but as much as we pulled with a chain attached to a bobcat forklift, it wouldn’t come, threatening to pull the tractor over. Then I got smart and put a big tractor on the other side and chained it to it, so then when we pulled hard with the bobcat, it wouldn’t move and the wheel came right off.
Wow, that sounded like a real adventure! Fun to play with big stuff when you have it handy lol, real tug-o-war. Congratulations, glad you (finally) got it off, just amazing how these things can sieze up. Thanks for the update Gary, appreciate it and Cheers!~ Bellarmine
You're welcome - It helped me, I hope it helps you just as well. Let me know how it goes or if you have any questions. Cheers and good luck with your farm!~ Bellarmine
Thanks for the comment, best wishes and let me know how it goes, or if you have any questions. Don't forget to soak with PB Blaster for a few hours (or days(!) first, it helps I'm sure! Cheers!~ Bellarmine
@@swami1 Sorry to hear about your frustration Swami! I was too, it's just unbelievable how these can be rusted on. Have you tried my method yet, or you've already tried it? At the end of my video I show another what I call 'last resort' method you can try, might be helpful. Let me know how it goes or of you need any advice, hope you have better luck soon Swami - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
@@swami1 Congratulations! Glad you got it sorted! Was my method any help? Perhaps a combination of the jack and your friend's torch finally did the job? Whew what a relief eh? Just so you know, I've heard some bad stories about tires exploding in people's faces when heat is used, even if you remove the valve core, pretty weird, but I've always been leery about using heat myself. Anyway all's good. Thanks for letting me know Swami! - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Those aren't bad ideas, my Dad's Yard-Man hydro garden tractor has hubs on it. However I'd still have to remove the stubborn wheel first after all lol!....:o) Thanks for the comment, Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Stop. !!!, Most of the time the end of the end of the axles have Ben mushroomed from being out working to began with.. Then the homeowner tries to do it himself and bangs on the end and mushrooms even more. All you have to do file down the end the c?axle with that high-quality file or a Dremel with a grinding drum on it. Spray it with Creep penetrating oil .It comes right off! That's how we've been doing it at work for 30 years. Each side is a five-minute job with a dremel.
Thanks for the comment Meno! That is a good point you make, though I don't think mine were mushroomed from banging, I wasn't banging on the end of my shafts, wreck my tranny! Mushroomed or not, it took my 20 ton jack to get the rim to even budge a fraction, let alone coming off the end. Anyway, I'll remember in future to check the end of the shafts, see if they are mushroomed or rusted as you say. Best wishes Meno and Cheers!~ Bellarmine
@@bellarmine33 Yeah , Mine are to mushroomed at all. they have just been on the axel for 25 years and they are not coming off. I'll try the jack tomorrow! Thanks.
@@capeangler You're welcome! Good luck with your mission, these can be a real pain. Let me know if you have any questions or your success - best wishes and cheers!~ Bellarmine
great idea hope i never have to use it- almost makes a guy want to take them off and grease the piss out of them just to save the grief , that is one stupid piece of engeneering
Thanks for the comment Marius, sorry for the slow reply just saw this now. You're absolutely right, I do intend to take off the rims and grease them periodically, only a simple snap ring takes only 10 minutes. Will save a lot of grief next time I need to change the tires lol. Hope you won't need to do this too, but glad it's helpful if you ever do....:o) Thanks Marius and Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Hi Keith, Yes, did I mention I soaked it with PB Blaster for DAYS before? It helped I'm sure, but still not quite enough!.....:o) See Fred Geitner's comment below on how he maxed out a 25ton shop press dealing with these problem wheels - they can be stuck on that tight indeed! Thanks for the comment - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Sorry to hear about your ordeal Harvey, wish it had worked for you. What didn't work, it just won't move? I'm guessing you soaked it with penetrating oil too and used a big enough jack (my 3-ton was too small!)? Just unbelievable how these can be rusted on, heard stories of people putting the axle in 10ton shop presses and bending the presses, whew! At the end of my video I show another what I call 'last resort' method you can try: drilling a hole in the rim, sawing a slot in the hub and splitting the hub, maybe that might be helpful. Hopefully you won't have to do what some John Deere dealers do, SAW OFF the axle and replace it(!). Let me know how it goes, hope you have better luck soon Harvey - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Hi Peter, I think this tractor DOES have woodruff keys. I've always thought that a woodruff key is a half-moon/semicircle, while a straight key is a bar that fits a grooved shaft. In any case, this tractor has the semi-circle ones, which were a PAIN, I think they rotate and jam the wheel on with the rust. Meanwhile my other JD185 has straight keys, those wheels slid off smooth as you please, go figure. Also this tractor was kept under cover, while my 185 was left out in the rain - the 185 shafts were a bit better chromed. Again go figure. Thanks for the comment Peter - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Yes, maybe I'll use Anti-Seize next time, didn't have any have to buy some. Apparently it had some anti-seize on it from the factory, and they say to 're-new' it every year, so fat lot of help that seems to be, and who has time for that anyway...:o) At least this way, if it happens again, it's not that big a deal to pull it off, unlike some other horror stories I've heard. Thanks for the comment - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
That's true, but I really wanted to solve this problem and not band-aid it. Besides, the real reason I was doing this was to put more grippy tires on the lawn mower and swap them with the bald smooth tires I put on the snowblower tractor along with chains, so good match. Thanks for the comment - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Glad you liked it! I see you like lead, I've still got over 10 of my Grandad's 25lb lead bricks. So useful for all sorts of stuff from re-gluing books to providing traction in the trunk of my old-school RWD Buick Roadmaster. Plus they keep me in shape moving them about lol. Thanks for the comment - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
You're right generally, but they will work up to a point. The first red 3ton jack I used ran out of fluid about 1/2 way out, so I upgraded to the big honkin 30ton jack that went out 3/4 of the way before running out of fluid. A few of them are actually designed to work sideways. Anyway both my jacks worked good enough to do the job, there was NO WAY my wheel would have come off ANY OTHER way, it was Welded on! Thanks for the comment Tomas and Cheers!~ Bellarmine
So All the mower, tiller, etc manufacturers are deliberately neglecting to anti-seize their axel/wheel connections to dishonestly con-jer up shop business. Every dealership should add the antisieze as part of the prep. Every buyer should add the antisieze immediately upon getting home with the machine. 🔺And the entire US is degenerating their own English language by Calling the Wheel as a Rim. It's not a rim, it's a wheel. Every wheel has a rim around its outer circumference. To call it a rim is to take away the ability to speak technically about a wheel.
Thanks for the comment Senator Joseph......:o) You're probably right, as the amount of Anti-sieze the mfg puts on is a real joke. I'll be greasing them myself every few years, should buy a bottle of antisieze too. I've always referred to a wheel nowadays as an assembly of rim and tire - a rim and tire makes a wheel. Though you bring up a good point, back in wagon wheel days, they had the spoked wooden wheel and outer steel rim, so you're saying the metal part is the wheel AND rim, and the rubber is the tire. So we mount our tires on wheels, not rims.......:o) Cheers Joseph!~ Robert
@@bellarmine33. I'm 66 years old and from an English speaking country. I have always known the tyre to be mounted on a rim and the whole unit is a wheel as well.
@@ducatidarmah122 Thanks for your reply on my comment Ducati, appreciate the support. I suppose the whole rim/wheel thing has evolved somewhat since the wagon wheel days, so that everyone nowadays regards mounting tires on rims to make wheels as normal......:o) Best wishes Ducati, thanks again and Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Hi Nathan, Thanks for the comment. Thing is, I was doing just that before, using the PB Blaster too, and NO WAY it was coming off, I was ready to give up before I tried this. There's no way I could have applied the amount of force needed using a sledge hammer (the 2-ton jack I started with was too small (!), I'd have busted the transaxle first. I've seen / heard horror stories about impacts / hammering on the transaxle internal snap-rings and so on, pretty weak that way. Seen a few bad examples of expensive damage, and don't want to experience one myself. I suppose some light tapping wouldn't hurt, but mine was stuck real good - 'welded' on as others have said! I'd just try my 'safe n' easy' method first....:o) Thanks for your comment Nathan, and stay well - strange times we're living in, strange times...:o) Cheers!~ Bellarmine
I have a go kart and I tried to do that and I may not be strong enough, but it is really rusted on there and this did not work for me. I again may just not be strong enough. Might try again though.
@@dwightschrute3862 i did a sledge to the back of a wheelhorse rj58 rim to get it off once. I bent the rim all to hell. ever since then i try to use some pb blaster and pound it on then pound on the back and rotate while doing it. It will pop off eventually.
Thanks for the comment Dwight! I do not recommend 'pounding' on the rim / axle, as there's no way to apply the amount of force needed using a sledge hammer, and a good chance of wrecking the transaxle! For example, with my wheel, the 2-ton jack I started with was too small (!) I've seen / heard horror stories about impacts / hammering on the transaxle internal snap-rings and so on, pretty weak that way. Seen a few bad examples of expensive transaxle damage, and don't want to experience one myself. I would recommend just trying my 'safe n' easy' hydraulic method first. If it doesn't work, then nothing lost, go ahead and pound if you want nothing to lose then so-to-speak lol. Let me know how it goes or if you have any other questions Dwight - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
I enjoy watching how people do things when they have to make it happen
Nothing like a hard headed person and Will power
I’m retired diesel mechanic and I still love mechanic work and run a smart engine repair shop
Love helping people 😊
Thanks for the comment Phillip, glad you enjoyed it! Yes I have had people say they admire my stick-to-it-tiveness, I guess I don't give up easy, have salvaged more than I've busted that way. I like Diesels too, grew up for 15 years in an '86 Chevy 6.2 Diesel Suburban (see my other videos), unkillable engine, really miss the sound and smell. Great to hear you help people out, I enjoy helping out people too, in fact what I'm doing, bit of this bit of that every day, mechanical like you/painting/electronics etc, sure beats an office job always something different. Keep it up, best wishes Phillip and Cheers!~ Bellarmine
I tried welding a nut to the rim and then using a bolt to pull it off. First I broke the bolt. Got the bolt out and went for a Grade 8. Bolt and my 1/2 impact. Stripped the threads in the nut. Fun stuff.
I will be cutting the nut off and splitting the outer shaft. That should do it.
In the past I have taken a piece of hose that will just fit over the shaft. Then take a hose clamp and tighten it up around the hose to hold it onto the shaft.
On the open end fabricate a pipe fitting with an air fitting in it. Fill the fitting with your choice of penetrating oil and set your pressure on your air compressors about 50 Lbs making sure the compressor power is off. Attach the hose at the rim and go back to the compressor and attach the hose.
This creates a pressure to force the fluid into the gap if any. Let it set for days.
Making sure your compressor is powered down is important just in case your wheel actually blows off. I’ve only had it happen once.
This also works great with frozen control cables and Emergency brake cables.
Stick the cable and sheath into a hose, tighten down around the hose with a hose clamp and add penetrating oil to the hose. Add a fitting and some and let it set until you get oil out of the loose end.
Sounds like fun stuff indeed Richard! I hate rusty broken stripped bolts....:o) I've heard of people bending shop presses trying to get these off, rust is strong! Yes splitting the shaft hub should work, method of last resort at the end of my video. And you can still reuse your rim. That's a very good idea for pressure lubricating stuff with penetrating oil, even boat steering cables, I'll remember that for next time. Thanks very much for the comment Richard and Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Thank you. It helped me. I had wheels stuck on my snowblower. They had been lubed some by the manufacturer, so they weren't seized horribly. The one side came off alright after being broken loose. The second one had to be jacked all the way, using a large bolt to push on the axle with the jack, resetting a couple of times.
You're welcome, thanks for the comment on your success! Mine were the same, one popped off, other one had to pull it off all the way! Another story of rims 'welded' on - rust is amazingly strong lol.......:o) Glad it was helpful, best wishes and stay warm!~ Bellarmine
Great idea , my snow blower wheel was frozen with heavy rust . This worked perfectly , great video . Thank you
Wow, Great to hear Michael! So snowblowers have the same problem too, amazing...:o) So glad the video helped you out, thanks for commenting your success Michael - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
i just bought a bottle jack and thats going to be my first task. i like the idea because your not banging the shit out of your rim and the miss hits are more scary LOL!! GREAT STUFF!!
Thanks for the comment, glad it's helpful! Yes, I just HATE banging away on the rim, not to mention destroying the nice expensive transaxle.....:o) Good luck, let me know how it goes or if you have any other questions. Cheers! Bellarmine
Thanks .. i did the same with my old Scott's S1642 today .. i used a a heavy-duty ratchet strap (10000lbs) instead of a chain, but it did the trick no less. Thanks for the suggestion
You're welcome Stewy, real happy it helped you, I love to hear success stories...:o) That's actually a good idea you suggested, one can tighten the heavy-duty-straps and keep everything together easier, bit more forgiving. Thanks for the comment Stewy and Cheers!~ Bellarmine
This is the best method I've ever seen on YT video. great idea. simple, fast and not damaging anything.
Glad you liked it! Found the idea on a forum, thought I'd give it some more exposure after it helped me. Hope it helps you in future - thanks for the comment. Cheers! Bellarmine
Removing the tires at least once a year and greasing them will prevent this from happening. i would recommend every other oil change will also work. Just a reminder is all you need. Happy mowing.
Antizee it and keep it in side out of weather, no problem
Grease gun , antizee and few tools is all it takes to keep them up
Had this problem today - needed to change out a rotten tire. In the end I gave up trying to remove the rim, just cut the tire off and installed new tire with rim still on the shaft!
Well there you go, whatever works, if you were able to get the tire mounted still on the tractor more power to you! I wanted to swap my wheels between my two tractors (knobby tires for grass cutting, smooth tires with chains for snowblowing), so I thought that'd be a 15minute job.....I should have known better lol!
I was looking at your channel, real interesting I've always loved model railways - also your demos of Thomas and Friends is great! I grew up watching the show, always liked the older seasons with the real model railways as opposed to the CGI - much more creative. I still have a lot of the old Playmobil brass track and cars and engines (compatible with LGB), had a blast with that, real durable stuff you can even put outdoors in the winter, think it is G gauge pretty big.
Check out the fellow's channel, he's creating amateur episodes of Thomas and Friends and (of all things) Bambi! What he lacks in professional props and lighting he more than makes up in creativity - check it out:
th-cam.com/channels/0-F-Tu3wjLyrmUxM-ySalA.html
Cheers!~ Bellarmine
How did you mount the tire while on the tractor?
@@mjx_0726 brute force and ignorance (tire iron) followed by starting fluid and a lighter!
Wish I had seen this before I did the rear wheel on my 165 Hydro. I ended up sawing off the tire then sawing the rim off then taking a grinder and grinding the center hub of the wheel into and finally using a chisel to split the ground hub enough for it to break free from the axle. I tried beating with wood blocks and hammer then various gear pullers around the rim lip and heating the damn thing and nothing worked. I would love to have tried this because it just looks like it would do the job. Great thinking. If I have to fool with the other tire and rim I'll be giving this a try.
Thanks for the comment Johnny! Wow, sorry to hear about your ordeal, wish you had seen this first too, boy what a nightmare! You ended up doing what I call the 'last resort', splitting the hub as you say. Only difference is you can maybe save the rim by sawing through a hole in the rim as I explain at the end of the video. At least you didn't have to SAW OFF the axle and replace it, which I've heard is just what some JohnDeere dealers do (!). Unbelievable how these can be rusted on, heard stories of people putting the axle in 10ton shop presses and bending the presses, whew! Hope you have better luck next time if you have to mess with the other tire Johnny - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
if i ever do get mine off i will remove the wheels everytime i finish mowing lol
I know what you mean Davis lol!.....:o) Try some Permatex Anti-Sieze grease on it if you do, that's what I'm going to use next time I have my wheels off. I also keep the tractor under cover which I am sure helps in the long run. Hope if you need to get them off, they come of a lot easier than mine - thanks for the comment Davis and Cheers!~ Bellarmine
It’s just smart to remove them when it’s brand new and antizee them then
Hate that the sorry ass America manufacturing company don’t antizee them
Piss poor attitude towards customers 😢
😂
I have not been able to get my wheels off for about 10 years. I am going to have to try that. good idea.
Good luck, I hope you're successful Jim! Let me know how it goes or if you have any questions. Thanks for the comment - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Anti-seize is best, water destroys grease and makes a rust incubator.
You're right, I'll go buy some for next time. I keep the tractor in the garage so rain shouldn't be a problem. Thanks for the comment and Cheers!~ Bellarmine
I've got seized drive wheels on my JD L130 and I'm sure going to give your method a try. I just tried your suggestion of possibly using 4x4s behind the wheel instead of your videoed example of 2x4s. In my case, they will just barely fit, but there's insufficient room for a stout chain to go behind them.
I'd like to make a safety suggestion regarding your method. I've been taught to not use steel against steel, if possible, in such a situation due to the chance of slippage. I would suggest laying a 4x4 under the base of your jack, to protect against slippage, and make it the same length as your 2x4s, so that the chains across the tire are parallel and not biting into the tire.
Hi Jim, thanks for the comment. That's not a bad idea, makes good sense. Only thing is you'll have to take time to get everything positioned, I found it hard enough keeping the chains positioned behind the wheel and around the jack, without another board to hold in place, guess 4 hands would help lol! Good to hear that a 4x4 fits, if you don't care about them you could route-out or chisel a groove in them for the chains to ride in, still be a lot stronger than 2x4s. Thanks again for the idea Jim, I'll keep it mind. Let me know how it goes if you want or if you have any questions - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
@@bellarmine33 Thanks, Bellarmine, your suggestion just made it easier for me. The top inside routed 4x4 will easily lay on top of the flat of the axle housing. I'll drill vertical holes near the end of each 4x4 and hang the bottom one from the top one with bolts (but not snugly, allowing it to slide over the axle housing) so that I don't have to block up from the ground to hold it in place. As the chain makes the 90° turn outward at each end of the two 4x4s, I'll drive a nail through a chain link into the end of the 4x4 to hold it in place while getting everything set up. Obviously the outboard 4x4 and bottle jack will still need to be blocked up from the ground, and I think I'll route the outboard 4x4 also a short way in from each end just to make setting up the chain easier.
@@Jim700 Glad the suggestion is useful, you're welcome, your jig is sounding great. Only thing, I'd keep an eye on the 4x4 under your jack, I'm not sure how it will hold up to 10 to 20 tonnes of force, it might crack rather suddenly - maybe use 2, or a 6x6? Getting really heavy-duty here aren't we lol. I'd be interested to hear how it works out, keep me updated Jim, and good luck - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
@@Jim700 Oh, and P.S., in case you're not doing this already (I'm sure you are), don't forget the couple cans of P.B. Blaster for a day or two - not enough by itself but I am sure it helps!
Great idea I have a Troy built tiller that has been outside the rims are rusty frozen to the axle I'm doing this
Thanks for the comment, glad you found my puller video helpful. Here's hoping you were successful, these wheels can be VERY stubborn! Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Exactly my problem, and EXACTLY my solution. Thank You!!!!
You're welcome, glad it helped you! Thanks for the comment - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Great video! I'm going to try it tomorrow. I greased my axle a few years ago and the grease just didn't hold the water out. I'd go with Permatex 80078 Anti-Seize. Works great on my boat prop and I wish I had used it on that axle. The boat is SS to aluminum so nickle Anti-Seize may be better on steel to steel (I always have extra when I do brakes on the car). Make more videos, we all need more horse sense in our lives! Thank you.
You're welcome Scott! Good luck tomorrow, I hope it works for you, let me know how it goes or if you have any questions. Yes, I greased up mine too, but like you just standard axle grease (guess I'll be doing this again in a couple years!). At least I am able to keep them out of the rain, which I imagine should help. Thanks for the tips on the anti-seize, and also your encouragement - yes, I have another video on the way showing an easier way to replace the A/C compressor on my Buick Roadmaster, along with a few general 'horse-sense' A/C service tips.....:o) Cheers Scott!~ Bellarmine
Good Job!!! Although we suppose to take the Wheel Off " each year " to grease it or better yet " anti-seized " it, but we don't. NOTE: Those Grease going to dry up in no time and you will be back to square one again, unless you are willing to do this every year.
Thanks Jordan! Yeah, guess I should re-grease them every so often if I get the chance so I don't have to do this all over again lol. Pretty troublesome design in my opinion. Funny - the other wheel almost slid right off. Maybe it'll help that I don't use the tractor all that often and I keep it under shelter when I'm not using it. Congratulations on your Bars Leaks victory over your head gasket leak! Had a head gasket leak on my old Chevy Corsica, and even after a head overhaul it still leaked a tiny bit. Cheers! Bellarmine
@@bellarmine33 - Yea, the Bars Leaks actually worked. I'm surprised myself. I did a Car + a Truck, omg both dry and worked so far. I don't know how long it will last! But no more starting issues and moisture problems!
good penetrating oil== mix 1/2 ATF with 1/2 Acetone. few drops on rusted bolt or axle presto its loose
Heard something like that before, maybe I'll try it next time, sounds interesting...:o) Thanks for the tip Samuel, cheers!~ Bellarmine
Not these!!!!
Excelent, thanks. I sprayed WD40 and waited a few hours and came out smooth.
Wow, that's great news to hear, thanks so much for your feedback, means a lot. Best wishes Francis and Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Thanks for the advice
You're welcome, glad you found it helpful. Thanks for the comment 'Inspector Baldbeard'......lol....Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Thanks for this! I was able to finally remove my tire with something simmilar to this. My jack also only worked standing up but I found it worked when the lever was on the bottom.
Wow, that's great news to hear, so glad my video helped you a bit. Yes, my jack didn't work all the way either, went out half way which was enough to get 'er done. Thanks so much for your feedback Howard, means a lot. Best wishes and Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Thanks! I may have to try this on my Toro 12/32 recycler rear engine riding mower. Got a slow leak in one of the back tires and I don't think the wheels have been off since new in 1992, lol. I took the cross bolt out and tried wiggling the tire but it's not gonna go.I did take a small bottle that fits snug on the hub, filled it with penetrating oil, then pressed it on so the axle will get a good soaking. I'm going to leave it like this till spring. Too cold to mess with it now. Thanks for the Vid. :)
You're welcome James, hope it works out for you in the Spring! Keep me updated with how it goes. That's a GREAT idea you have about finding a small bottle to stick on the hub full of penetrating oil - I will try that myself first next time. Best wishes, thanks for the comment and Cheers James!~ Bellarmine
Would've been nice if the factory had put some anti - seize on that axel...
Thanks for the comment! Yes, you're right, though I think they did do that at the factory, the trouble is the grease dries out after a few years, and the shaft and hub rust together. They even say in the owner's manual to "Remove the wheels and grease the shafts once a year". Who's got the time to do that? Anyway, for those of us who don't have the time to do that (like everyone lol), this is a pretty low-fuss alternative.....:o) Cheers! Bellarmine
permatex aluminum Anti-Seize on the shafts from day one. Is the preventive measure. Snow blowers especially 🙂
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You're right, I'm going to buy a bottle of Permatex at Princess Auto and next time I have the wheels off, I'll paint them all up! Glad you enjoyed it, cheers!~ Bellarmine
Thanks for the idea man! I have a 1969 Wheel horse charger 10, and the wheels have never been off.
Thanks for your comment. Oh boy, nearly 50 years, that is a long time!...:o) When you get to it let me know if you have any questions, and also how it turns out using my method - success or failure (hope for the former...;o). Thanks for watching - Cheers! Bellarmine
i did the same putting lower ball joints in an 83 Capris Classic sat a bottle jack on a steel plate that i had tie downs welded too through the chain over the lower A arm instant press works well press/pull
Thanks for your comment. That is a good idea, I should make a plate like that. I will probably be replacing the ball joints on my '94 Buick Roadmaster soon (same car as your Caprice), so that might be helpful if I can't rent a ball-joint puller from Canadian Tire. Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Good job. This also work on frozen blade shaft pulleys
Thanks for the comment and the tip Eran, glad it was helpful! Cheers! Bellarmine
Great idea. I could not get mine off. The shaft tubes on my wheels are almost 6 inches. Good job.
You definitely have the right ideal of tapping on it, but you can tap on it while you have pressure pulling on it with your jack and chains then it should vibrate off. An air hammer works even better, and sometimes you can just use the air hammer alone, while just pulling the wheel outward with human force.
But always use penetrating oil on all the seems, and especially when you get it to move, spray more on the exposed shaft part, then push the rim back on and it will help lube the inside of the hub and that make it slide off quicker and easier too.
But if all else fails, i would never try cutting into the rim hub, instead use your set up with the jack and chains, plus penetrating oil, plus an air hammer directly on the shaft or the back of the jack while it is pulling with considerable force, vibrating the heavy shaft and hub. But like you said, not with a ton of force, just be firm enough to transfer some vibration into the steel and when you see it moving you know it will be fine.
I mean if all else failed i would heat the rim cherry, use your jack and chains set up with the boards, and pull, and if needed, air hammer, and it can't stay on there then. But i mean before needing heating, i think your jack and chains, and a air hammer with penetrating oil would do it for 99% of the cases. It would do it on the first try if you did all three jack, hammer(while jack under pressure pulling, hammering on the heavy shaft or hub), oil.
Hi Tony, glad you think it's a good idea. I just don't like tapping or hammering / air-hammering the shaft because the transaxle is pretty weak that way - internal snap rings and so on. Seen a few bad examples of expensive damage, and don't want to experience one myself. You're right about the penetrating oil, I soaked it for days, and also after the wheel moved a bit, but still wasn't enough to get it off 1st try. I thought about using heat, but I've watched a few YT videos on the tires EXPLODING in your face, no matter how careful you are, even removing the valve core and breaking the bead. One tire company says the heat causes a chemical reaction in the tire that can cause a failure up to even 24 hours later......strange. Anyway I suppose some light tapping wouldn't hurt, though mine was stuck pretty good. Thanks for your comment and insight Tony - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Good Job! For your information and use the bottle jack side way, it works better if the pump side is on the bottom side, so it pick oil, I know it it’s inconvenient but it works
Glad it was helpful and thanks for jack tip Rosalio, yes awkward that say but makes sense, at least my big jack had enough oil to go half way out, which was enough to get the job done lol......:o) Best wishes Rosalio and Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Well done. Perseverance . A lot of pressure. Never-Seize ever after!
Glad you liked it, I agree about the Anti-Sieze! Thanks for the comment Gord, cheers!~ Bellarmine
Good video! But, maybe instead of applying lots of grease on re-installation of the wheel, use lots of anti-seize??
Yes you're right, next time I have them off I'll use Anti-sieze, didn't have any handy at the time. Thanks for the comment - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Just wanted to tell you how I got my seized rear wheel off of the lawn tractor- I borrowed a 5 ton three arm puller from oreilly auto parts (they sell it to you then refund when you bring it back.) also used some pb blaster. Broke the bead on the wheel, the used the puller - 10 minutes and the wheel was off. 1/2 that time was spent finding things to extend the middle of the puller into the center of the wheel as the wheel was pulling off. I had to apply pressure until it was almost completely off. So, don’t bottle,jack it, use a 3 arm puller big enough to put all three arms on the wheel and line up with the axel your wheel is stuck on.
Glad you got your rim off! Thanks for the great idea, yes sounds like another really good method. Plus, like my method and unlike all the other methods, you still won't damage anything except perhaps your rim - easy way to apply a lot of force and get the job done - great job!~ Cheers! Bellarmine
Wonder Bread I wasn’t clear in my originL comment- orielly has a tool loaner program - you have to buy the tool, then return it for refund. So, since I followed their policy, my conscience is pretty clear.
This looks feasible as I need to do this to my Go Kart turning into cycle Kart. Thanks.
You're welcome Terry, hope it works for you and helps you out. Let me know how it goes or if you have any questions - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Good idea. I'm trying to get my tiller tines off. Tried 50/50 and everything else. I will be useing your method
Hope it works.
Thanks for the comment, glad you found my puller video helpful. Here's hoping you were successful, these wheels can be VERY stubborn! Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Hammer drill and flat chisele to vibrate an impact the surface around the what an will an penetrating oil
Not a bad idea, though I don't like impacts / hammering on my transaxle internal snap-rings. Still, perhaps a bit might not hurt, though I'd try my 'safe n' easy' method first....:o) Thanks for the comment - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
i am going to try this today on my troy bilt horse tiller. good thing i already have everything needed and do not have to buy anything.
i was thinking about designing a puller that i could use my bottle jack with but the chain method is simpler and looks very doable.
Hi Paul, thanks for your comment! Wish you luck, hope you were successful, and let me know if it worked or if you have any questions. As you've read, it's pretty simple, just take your time setting it up and make sure everything is straight and square so it doesn't spring back at you and you'll be fine - never did with me......:o) Cheers! Bellarmine
I just did the same thing this week, had to use metal bars in back because there was not a lot of room in the back. Use my chain and a 4 ton bottle jack. I had to use Duct tape to hole ever thing in place before I started working the Jack. I even posted a Video of it and then saw this video . lol
Hey, congratulations on getting your tire off, and figuring out the SMART way to do it! As I said, I got the idea from a forum; you figured it all out yourself, great! LOVED your video, getting your tire off using only red&green was amazing....lol....;o) Other watchers see his video below, he even has a couple ideas I didn't think of, like using a trolley jack to hold the bottlejack at just the right height. Thanks for the comment - cheers! Bellarmine
th-cam.com/video/ncAi7xgmEpE/w-d-xo.html
i have a simplicity broadmore i got used 3 years ago. the tire just started going flat this fall. i couldn't get it off either. i bent a harmonic balancer puller trying to get it off. i'll try this next. thanks!
Great stuff, yes they almost appear to be welded on don't they? Crazy!...:o) Good luck, let me know how it goes or if you have any questions. Thanks for the comment - Cheers~! Bellarmine
I wouldn't hold sandpaper around the shaft with the engine running.
You could get your fingers caught and badly twist your wrist or worse.
Thanks for the tip. I only had the axle going about 60RPM (1 rev/sec), used to doing things like that for many years - if it hitched on something like the empty keyway I'd just let go, really nothing there to catch on anything....:o) Thanks for the comment, hope it was helpful - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
I'm going to try this. Question, won't the tire hit the board that the jack is placed on? Or will it slide along as the wheel moves? Thanks
Hi Tim, thanks for your question. No the jack won't 'hit' the board(s) placed underneath it, they shouldn't even get in the way or be an issue. I just placed them underneath the jack to hold it at the right place while jacking. Once there's tension on the chain they don't do too much, they remain loose and movable. Either way they won't be a problem....:o) Good luck with your wheel extraction, these can be Stubborn! Let me know how it goes or if you have any further questions, thanks Tim and Cheers!~ Bellarmine
@@bellarmine33 thanks.
Update, I had to use a sawzall to cut the wheel off. When I got to the axle I stopped. Came off pretty easy then. What a pain.
Thank you! Man I was about to light a match. Since I dont have a jack, I am giving a wheel puller when my back has recovered.
You're welcome Bart, glad you liked the video and gave you some ideas, hope your back gets better right quick. Wish you success with your removal, these can be Stubborn! I would highly recommend spending $20 at your favorite Harbour Frieght or similar for a bottle jack. Screw thread pullers just can't equal the force of hydraulics, and believe me if it's anything like my wheel was you will need it! Let me know how it goes if you want Bart and Best wishes! Bellarmine
Does it work if you cant get the key out of the keyway still?
Hi Gary, Thanks for the question. It sure does work, there was no way I could even get at the keyway to remove it before getting the rusted wheel off. I think that may have been part of the problem with my wheel, it didn't use a keyway / square bar, but a woodruff key / halfmoon. I think the halfmoon 'may' have been jamming into the wheel rim slightly. In any case, yes this method definitely works whatever type of key you have. Good luck with your wheel removal, let me know how it goes if you want or if you have questions - Cheers Gary!~ Bellarmine
I used a steering wheel puller. First bolts broke in 2. Second bolts stripped the threads. Third bolts almost pulled through the rim. My impact gun only goes to 350 'lb. Torch heat and penetrating oil used too.
Wow, what an ordeal! At least you actually got them off, some people have bent shop presses and sawed off the axles to fix it, what a bad design! Try using AntiSeize for next time, people tell me it will help. Cheers David!~ Bellarmine
@@bellarmine33 No, it never came off. I bought a 2nd snowblower for $50.00 and used that wheel and axel. The 2nd one had anti seize on it. I also beat on it with a 5lb hammer every for weeks.
@@scratchcoderig Unbelieveable - someone said, you need Dynamite on these things! So the Anti-sieze does work, amazing. You should try my method I think it would work, has worked for nearly all the commenters on here, lot easier than tearing down your transaxle........:o) Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Yes, I've been using it for years, even on my car and truck wheels where the rim rust welds to the hub spindle. Unfortunately for me the previous owners never used it. It was a free snowblower project that needed a carb rebuild, fuel line, shutoff valve, tires, valves, belts a, a lot of penetrating oil ball joint grease and a rim.
this is pretty clever..ill keep this in mind if my otehr idea i found out here doesnt work which im thinking it wont but hopefully it will or one of them will my rim is seized on the bar.
Thanks for the comment, glad you found my puller video helpful. Hope either it or your method was successful getting your wheel off, these can be VERY stubborn...:o) Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Nice 165 👍 In the middle of a restoration on it's little brother (130) that has the identical problem on both sides. It was given to me as pretty much scrap sitting in a barn for 20 years. Thought for fun I'd get the little Kawi engine running... that lead to get the blade turning... that lead to make the mower better than new. Managed to heat one wheel up enough with a map gas torch to release it enough to move it about 3/4". Spraying it with Moovit for the next couple days and hoping it'll pop off. Not so confident with the other side though 😕 What a stupid design that could have been easily solved with 5 cents worth of never-seize from the factory.
Hi Mike, thanks for the comment! Nice that you're restoring the 130, good little tractors, I think tougher than the more modern ones. I like the way I can put a small car battery under the dash, rather than the tiny spots they give you under the seat. If you have problems with the starter clicking and not engaging now and then let me know I have an easy fix for that. About the wheel that budged 3/4", what I'd do is (gently) tap/whack it back in, then pull it out again, over and over, it'll eventually pop off. Mine did the same thing - what a pain! Yes, anti-sieze from the factory would have been good! I'll put some on next time I have them off, I keep the tractor under cover so the grease should last quite a while for now. Try my method for the other wheel it should do the trick, I hate using torches around tires heard some real horror stories even after removing the valve stem.....:o) Let me know if you need any manuals I have the factory shop and owner's manuals on my HDD if you haven't found them already, and also an extra 38" mower deck for parts if you need something......:o) Cheers Mike!~ Bellarmine
@@bellarmine33 my starter was randomly clicking and not moving. Decided to take it apart to find one of the magnets had exploded which locked up the starter. Have a new ignition switch, PTO switch, starter, all 4 tires, and new belts on the way which will smarten this thing up. Already put on a brand new carb, fuel pump, fuel lines and spark plug. Got her dialed in beautifully until the starter grenaded. Going to go "full monty" on it now I have the deck off. Pressure wash, paint and body are now on the growing list. I'm sure I could sell it for half of what I'll have into it 🤣
@@mikescott1050 Wow, sounds like it'll be like new when you're done, and yes you're sure to get maybe 25% back if you were to sell it lol. Isn't it always like that? Nothing more satisfying than getting a mechanical wonder purring again, quite a feeling. Check out my other video on my 1956 Johnson 30HP outboard, was a great thrill getting that one started after sitting for 35 years! I have to invest in paint, but it purrs like a Swiss watch. Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Thank you for posting this video. I used your technique and it did the trick.
That's great to hear, real glad it helped you! Thanks for the comment, Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Use a scissors lift jack with a handcrank you will not have that problem running out of fluid
Not a bad idea. However I've found most scissor jacks are about 2 ton units, and as I said in my video I started with my 2 tonn bottle jack and it couldn't cut it, needed to upgrade to the 10 tonn model (!). The fluid wasn't a problem with the 2 ton jack as it was designed to be sideways, and for the 10 tonn jack I just screwed the extension out all the way to take up the slack and it was fine. Also it'd be a bit harder to position a scissor jack with the threaded rod sticking out etc etc. However could certainly try starting with one though, and upgrade to a hydraulic if it doesn't do the job. Thanks for the comment - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Thank you for the video. I had to remove a wheel from a go kart axle one time that was seized on like that and I managed to remove the axle assembly and take it to work to put in the press. I think it was only 25 tons but I had to max the thing out before it finally popped loose.
You're welcome Fred. Wow, a 25-ton press and it just barely did it - crazy. I've also heard a story or two of people bending their shop presses with these wheels, whew what a problem!! Glad you got it off, thanks for the comment - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
@@bellarmine33 It just goes to show how tight those things can be rusted on there. I made a piece of steel with a hole through it to go against the back of the wheel hub so I didn't bend the rim when pressing it because I'm sure it would have bent otherwise. I ended up not reusing the rims anyway though. They were too far gone.
Oh my God thank you best method simple and easy thank you so much this actually saved my life thank you
That's great to hear, real glad it helped you! Hope you're joking about it literally 'saving your life' lol! Thanks for the comment, Cheers!~ Bellarmine
I have a 165 Hydro too,
Well actually it is still at the Dump because there is too much Snow, but I should be able to get it out of there in the next few weeks.
Thanks for the comment! Sounds good Kevin, yes looks like Spring is finally on its way. If your wheels are stuck and you're going to give them another shot, I hope this video helps you out. Or let me know if you'd like any tips on your 165, fixed a tough no-start issue with mine, been using it to blow snow past 3 years, the Hydro sure is easier than gear drive, sure turns a chore into fun. Cheers Kevin! Bellarmine
Learned something new thank u for sharing did one last summer destroyed the wheel getting it off lol
You're welcome. Yeah, it's crazy how rusted on these can get, these things can max out 25tonn shop presses! You're not alone, I was starting to wreck my own rims before I tried this idea that works. Others haven't been so lucky, like pounding it to bits and wrecking their (expensive!) transaxle, to using a torch and having the tire blow up in their faces (!). Even though you damaged your rim, at least you did get it off, at a certain point I was almost ready to give up. Hope this helps you have better luck next time Brad, and thanks for the comment - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
That's a good idea I'm would never thought of that
Thanks for the comment, glad you liked it - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Thanks, going through the same thing.
I feel your pain, took me about a WEEK of working at it before I came up with this idea to get the stupid thing off! Let me know how it goes if you're successful or not, or have any questions. Best wishes and Good luck - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Also, don't forget the PB Blaster - wasn't enough to do it by itself, but it helped I'm sure. Cheers!~ Bellarmine
50/50 mix of acetone and Trans fluid is even better then pb blaster and Kroil.
Thanks for the suggestion, sorry for the slow reply. Acetone is like nail polish remover or rubbing alcohol? I'll try it next time - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
@@bellarmine33 nail polish remover.
@@beingsneaky Thanks!
I tried this. My wheel rim split off from the hub. Had to end up slitting the hub that was left on it and prying it open. Was on a Gilson rear engine rider with a unobtainable rear wheel. Had to end up finding a different wheel and cutting the hub down to make it work , sucked big time.
Sorry to hear about your ordeal Dennis, boy what a nightmare! You ended up doing what I call the 'last resort', splitting the hub as you say. At least you didn't have to SAW OFF the axle and replace it, which I've heard is just what some JohnDeere dealers do (!). Unbelievable how these can be rusted on, heard stories of people putting the axle in 10ton shop presses and bending the presses, whew! Better luck next time, take care and thanks for the comment Dennis - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Great replacement
What a job to change a mower wheel..🙄..
You're right, never thought it'd be such an 'adventure' - but I got it off lol! Thanks for the comment - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
good video I agree use anti-seize. This is a vary common problem, I don't know why Mfg. don't put anti-seize to start with.
Thanks for the comment! Yes, why JD didn't use Anti Sieze is a real mystery (or perhaps not such a mystery lol...:o). Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Had one so stuck I had to torch it off. Gulf coast salty air don’t play .
Make sure you put never-seize grease on it when you put it back together
Will do, the grease will do for now but next time I have them off will buy some Anti-Sieze......:o) Thanks for the comment John - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Can't wait to try this! THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
You're welcome!!!! It helped me, I hope it helps you just as well Stephanie. Let me know how it goes or if you have any questions. Merry Christmass!!
Thanks very much for the idea. Took about 1hr to set up without chains falling off but the pressure of the bottle jack did much more than a hammer could do. Still didn't damage the axle. Jacl
Congratulations Jack, you're welcome! Great to hear, glad it was helpful. Cheers! Bellarmine
Legend mate, worked for me thank God.
Great to hear, so glad it helped you out! Thanks for commenting your success - Happy New Year!~ Bellarmine
Re: Evinrude -- local guy has an old Evinrude for $100 -- been sitting in his in-laws basement for 40 years.says it looks like new; not seized; can't remember rest of description. If you're interested I can get more info.
Hi, thanks for the comment! I'm not sure I'd be interested right now, I have enough motors to keep me busy at the moment, but if it's not too much trouble I would be interested to hear where it is/what do you mean by Local, and what horsepower/year/model it is. Might possibly know someone who might want it, you never know...:o) Thanks for your consideration - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
When you put it back on cover that whole axle with never-seize brush on compound.
Good idea, I'll buy some from Princess Auto and use it when I regrease the axles them this year. Thanks and Cheers!~ Bellarmine
@@bellarmine33 Yesterday I had to cut the wheel into pieces to get it to release. 3 1/2" of direct contact wheel to axle bound by rust is a very strong grip, plus the expanding factor.....so much work for a small job. Getting ready for side 2.....
Aww boy, what a pain! Yes, what a lot of work for such a small thing, i just wanted to swap the wheels between my 2 tractors, never thought it'd be such an adventure lol. Perhaps you don't care about the wheel at this point, just want them OFF; but near the end of my video I show a last-ditch way to get the wheel off, and you can still use it afterwards. Just drill a 1/2" hole in the rim right above the hub, use a sawz-all to carefully cut a slot in the hub down to the axle, then flood it with PB Blaster, and use a cold chisel to spread the hub apart and it should break free. Still usable afterwards, the slot in the hub won't matter for a lawn-tractor going 5mph lol. Good luck with the other side, and maybe you'll be lucky - my wheel was frozen fast, but the other side came off pretty easy, never know....:o) Cheers!~ Bellarmine
@@bellarmine33 NO CENTER DRILLED INTO THE AXLE EITHER for the puller. Yesterday it took me 10 hrs to get the wheel off after cutting it. Worst job I ever had to do in 60+ years of mechanic work. Then when I got the new wheel/tire assembly today I had to clean the paint out of the bore and key-way....more work over nothing. You never paint tight tolerance surfaces! Now I have to remove the other wheel during the week....more hours wasted!
I hear you, everything is frustration these days about the simplest and most common-sense items! They should have masked the rim when it was painted, Chinese shortcuts I guess. The lack of a center in the axle didn't bother me because I didn't even bother trying a gear puller, NO WAY it would have exerted enough force to work. As I said in my video, my 3 TON bottle jack couldn't cut it (!). Hope one of my 2 methods helped you get the other wheel off with a minimum of fuss - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Thank you John Deere!
Yes, thanks for that adventure John Deere eh? lol! Well, I learned something else new. And thanks for the comment - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Will this work on a snowblower
I'm sure it will, if it has the some type of wheel mounting - rim with a bore sliding onto a shaft with a keyway / woodruffkey. People have told me they've done this on snowblowers and gocarts even...:o) Let me know how it goes or if you have any questions Chad. Thanks for the comment, Good luck and Cheers!~ Bellarmine
i,m gonna try this on a tiller wheel...one side slid off easy the other side needs dynamite
It's always one that gets you - was the same with my tractor, the first wheel came off easy, 2nd was welded on....:o) Wish you luck, let me know how it goes or if you have any questions - Cheers! Bellarmine
@@bellarmine33 same thing on the tines..one side tines came off easy but wheel would,nt..other side the wheel came off easy but the pin was stuck in the tines...had to drill the pin out
Yeah, both of mine are frozen. I thought I could replace the tires while the rims were stuck, but no such luck. I got one of the tires off, but that was the end of it. I bought a 12-ton hydraulic jack on sale 15 years ago at Harbor Freight for no particular reason, and now it's going to get its first use!
Thanks for the comment, great to hear! Yes, my 3 ton jack I first tried couldn't cut it, had to upgrade to "The Big One" lol! Good luck, let me know how it turns out, or if you have any questions - Cheers! Bellarmine
A bottle jack works vertical and not horizontal . A portapower will do a better job.
Yes, a portapower would be better, but I don't have one and also it' d be a little more awkward to position than the bottle jack. The fluid wasn't a problem with the 2 ton jack as it was designed to be sideways, and for the 10 tonn jack I just screwed the extension out all the way to take up the slack and it was fine. Thanks for the comment - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
I have to admit I would not have thought of such an ingenious method of removing a stuck wheel. More often than not, I reach for my torch to heat the affected area then tap the wheel loose.
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Nice idea!!
Thanks, glad you like the idea! Yes, I thought about using a torch, I'm learning to use heat more and more to remove things. However, I watched a few YT videos on tires EXPLODING in your face when using a torch, no matter how careful you are, even removing the valve core and breaking the bead. One tire company says the heat causes a chemical reaction in the tire that can cause a failure up to even 24 hours later - they actually demonstrated it......weird. I'm always into trying 'last ditch effort' ideas, but from the sound of it a torch around tires just seemed a tad too dangerous for comfort...:o) Anyway at least this idea is here in case you get into a similar situation (hope not!...:o) Thanks for the comment - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
What a great idea!! Thanks
You're welcome, glad you found my puller video helpful! Thanks for the comment - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
There must be a better way then this key system. Looks common for these wheels to seize onto the axle and be almost impossible to remove. Cant they have little wheel hubs like cars do?
Yes, that WOULD be nice, but I guess you have to get a bigger tractor for that. My Dad has a very nice Yard-Man 16HP Hydrostatic Garden tractor with small 3-point hydraulic hitch, it has wheel hubs splined to the axles and rims that bolt on with 4 bolts, MUCH nicer! Also actually, I've seen a small John Deere 108 that simply had a plate on the end of the shaft with 3 studs on it, 5 hole wheel bolted on to 3 studs(!) Cheap but works, so guess they can do it when they feel like it...:o) Thanks for the comment - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
They sell go kart hubs that will fit the axle
@joshmanis9860 I used a blow torch the jack and a chain. It wouldn't move at all. I took it to the mower shop. They couldn't do it. They changed the tyres without removing the rims from the axle. Not sure how that works.
Use Antisieze.. not grease
Yes you're right, next time I have them off I'll use Anti-sieze, didn't have any handy at the time. Thanks for the comment - Cheers!~ Bellarmin
This works. I've done it for years
Thanks very much for the confirmation, appreciate it. Glad you enjoyed the video, again thanks for the comment Michel - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Thanks for sharing your idea 👍
You're welcome Adam, glad you enjoyed it. Cheers!~ Bellarmine
I tried this on an actual tractor yesterday. The bottle Jack doesn’t work sideways. Why does yours?
Hi Gary, Thanks for the question. Unless specified, bottle jacks don't work that well sideways (including mine). I think the internal jack oil reservoir is made differently. Mine would only extend about half way or less, so my solution was to start with the jack all the way down/retracted, and then screw the screw extension right out until it butts the axle, taking up all the slack. This way the jack starts pushing on the axle right away before the internal jack fluid reservoir runs out. My small Red 2ton runs out of fluid half-way when sideways, so I extended the screw extension which helped. The 20ton jack worked better, though still not perfectly. Maybe try buying a 20ton jack from Princess Auto / Harbour Freight, they go on sale for only $20 sometimes....:o) Hope this helps Gary, do let me know how it goes or if you have any other questions. Cheers!~ Bellarmine
@@bellarmine33 So, we were trying the get the wheel off a large John Deere tractor. We had that huge clamp plate loose but as much as we pulled with a chain attached to a bobcat forklift, it wouldn’t come, threatening to pull the tractor over. Then I got smart and put a big tractor on the other side and chained it to it, so then when we pulled hard with the bobcat, it wouldn’t move and the wheel came right off.
Wow, that sounded like a real adventure! Fun to play with big stuff when you have it handy lol, real tug-o-war. Congratulations, glad you (finally) got it off, just amazing how these things can sieze up. Thanks for the update Gary, appreciate it and Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Try it with the pump and handle on the bottom so it doesn't suck air.
Thanks for sharing, going to try today.
You're welcome - It helped me, I hope it helps you just as well. Let me know how it goes or if you have any questions. Cheers and good luck with your farm!~ Bellarmine
Excellent idea
Glad you liked it, thanks for the comment! Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Ok I’m about out of ideas this is what I’m trying next.
Thanks for the comment, best wishes and let me know how it goes, or if you have any questions. Don't forget to soak with PB Blaster for a few hours (or days(!) first, it helps I'm sure! Cheers!~ Bellarmine
I’m dealing with the same issue. I just soaked the axle in PB Blaster for 24 hours and it still won’t budge.
@@swami1 Sorry to hear about your frustration Swami! I was too, it's just unbelievable how these can be rusted on. Have you tried my method yet, or you've already tried it? At the end of my video I show another what I call 'last resort' method you can try, might be helpful. Let me know how it goes or of you need any advice, hope you have better luck soon Swami - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
@@bellarmine33 Yesterday A contractor friend came over and used his torch to heat up the axle. Then the wheel came off. FINALLY.
@@swami1 Congratulations! Glad you got it sorted! Was my method any help? Perhaps a combination of the jack and your friend's torch finally did the job? Whew what a relief eh? Just so you know, I've heard some bad stories about tires exploding in people's faces when heat is used, even if you remove the valve core, pretty weird, but I've always been leery about using heat myself. Anyway all's good. Thanks for letting me know Swami! - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Thanks bunches.
You're welcome Ken, so glad it was helpful - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Or thread axle, weld threaded nut into wheel
Those aren't bad ideas, my Dad's Yard-Man hydro garden tractor has hubs on it. However I'd still have to remove the stubborn wheel first after all lol!....:o) Thanks for the comment, Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Stop. !!!, Most of the time the end of the end of the axles have Ben mushroomed from being out working to began with.. Then the homeowner tries to do it himself and bangs on the end and mushrooms even more. All you have to do file down the end the c?axle with that high-quality file or a Dremel with a grinding drum on it. Spray it with Creep penetrating oil .It comes right off! That's how we've been doing it at work for 30 years. Each side is a five-minute job with a dremel.
Thanks for the comment Meno! That is a good point you make, though I don't think mine were mushroomed from banging, I wasn't banging on the end of my shafts, wreck my tranny! Mushroomed or not, it took my 20 ton jack to get the rim to even budge a fraction, let alone coming off the end. Anyway, I'll remember in future to check the end of the shafts, see if they are mushroomed or rusted as you say. Best wishes Meno and Cheers!~ Bellarmine
@@bellarmine33 Yeah , Mine are to mushroomed at all. they have just been on the axel for 25 years and they are not coming off. I'll try the jack tomorrow! Thanks.
@@capeangler You're welcome! Good luck with your mission, these can be a real pain. Let me know if you have any questions or your success - best wishes and cheers!~ Bellarmine
great idea hope i never have to use it- almost makes a guy want to take them off and grease the piss out of them just to save the grief , that is one stupid piece of engeneering
Thanks for the comment Marius, sorry for the slow reply just saw this now. You're absolutely right, I do intend to take off the rims and grease them periodically, only a simple snap ring takes only 10 minutes. Will save a lot of grief next time I need to change the tires lol. Hope you won't need to do this too, but glad it's helpful if you ever do....:o) Thanks Marius and Cheers!~ Bellarmine
THANKS FOR SHARING
You're welcome, glad you enjoyed it!...:o) Cheers ~ Bellarmine
Is anyone else using penetrating fluid / brake fluid ? Soak it !
Hi Keith, Yes, did I mention I soaked it with PB Blaster for DAYS before? It helped I'm sure, but still not quite enough!.....:o) See Fred Geitner's comment below on how he maxed out a 25ton shop press dealing with these problem wheels - they can be stuck on that tight indeed! Thanks for the comment - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Didn't work for me I even heated it still didn't move
Sorry to hear about your ordeal Harvey, wish it had worked for you. What didn't work, it just won't move? I'm guessing you soaked it with penetrating oil too and used a big enough jack (my 3-ton was too small!)? Just unbelievable how these can be rusted on, heard stories of people putting the axle in 10ton shop presses and bending the presses, whew!
At the end of my video I show another what I call 'last resort' method you can try: drilling a hole in the rim, sawing a slot in the hub and splitting the hub, maybe that might be helpful. Hopefully you won't have to do what some John Deere dealers do, SAW OFF the axle and replace it(!). Let me know how it goes, hope you have better luck soon Harvey - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
I prefer Woodruff keys. Never had one get stuck.
Hi Peter, I think this tractor DOES have woodruff keys. I've always thought that a woodruff key is a half-moon/semicircle, while a straight key is a bar that fits a grooved shaft. In any case, this tractor has the semi-circle ones, which were a PAIN, I think they rotate and jam the wheel on with the rust. Meanwhile my other JD185 has straight keys, those wheels slid off smooth as you please, go figure. Also this tractor was kept under cover, while my 185 was left out in the rain - the 185 shafts were a bit better chromed. Again go figure. Thanks for the comment Peter - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Anti seize not grease
Yes, maybe I'll use Anti-Seize next time, didn't have any have to buy some. Apparently it had some anti-seize on it from the factory, and they say to 're-new' it every year, so fat lot of help that seems to be, and who has time for that anyway...:o) At least this way, if it happens again, it's not that big a deal to pull it off, unlike some other horror stories I've heard. Thanks for the comment - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
GENIUS...
Glad you liked it Jerry, thanks for the comment!! Cheers!~ Bellarmine
if the tire is good you can always tube it on the tractor.
That's true, but I really wanted to solve this problem and not band-aid it. Besides, the real reason I was doing this was to put more grippy tires on the lawn mower and swap them with the bald smooth tires I put on the snowblower tractor along with chains, so good match. Thanks for the comment - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Thanks for the vid. Great sticktoitness!
Glad you liked it! I see you like lead, I've still got over 10 of my Grandad's 25lb lead bricks. So useful for all sorts of stuff from re-gluing books to providing traction in the trunk of my old-school RWD Buick Roadmaster. Plus they keep me in shape moving them about lol. Thanks for the comment - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Bottle jacks don’t work horizontally
You're right generally, but they will work up to a point. The first red 3ton jack I used ran out of fluid about 1/2 way out, so I upgraded to the big honkin 30ton jack that went out 3/4 of the way before running out of fluid. A few of them are actually designed to work sideways. Anyway both my jacks worked good enough to do the job, there was NO WAY my wheel would have come off ANY OTHER way, it was Welded on! Thanks for the comment Tomas and Cheers!~ Bellarmine
So All the mower, tiller, etc manufacturers are deliberately neglecting to anti-seize their axel/wheel connections to dishonestly con-jer up shop business.
Every dealership should add the antisieze as part of the prep.
Every buyer should add the antisieze immediately upon getting home with the machine.
🔺And the entire US is degenerating their own English language by
Calling the Wheel as a Rim.
It's not a rim, it's a wheel.
Every wheel has a rim around its outer circumference.
To call it a rim is to take away the ability to speak technically about a wheel.
Thanks for the comment Senator Joseph......:o) You're probably right, as the amount of Anti-sieze the mfg puts on is a real joke. I'll be greasing them myself every few years, should buy a bottle of antisieze too.
I've always referred to a wheel nowadays as an assembly of rim and tire - a rim and tire makes a wheel. Though you bring up a good point, back in wagon wheel days, they had the spoked wooden wheel and outer steel rim, so you're saying the metal part is the wheel AND rim, and the rubber is the tire. So we mount our tires on wheels, not rims.......:o) Cheers Joseph!~ Robert
@@bellarmine33. I'm 66 years old and from an English speaking country. I have always known the tyre to be mounted on a rim and the whole unit is a wheel as well.
@@ducatidarmah122 Thanks for your reply on my comment Ducati, appreciate the support. I suppose the whole rim/wheel thing has evolved somewhat since the wagon wheel days, so that everyone nowadays regards mounting tires on rims to make wheels as normal......:o) Best wishes Ducati, thanks again and Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Take your engine pulley and transmission off and anti seize the shafts
Awesome channel thank you
You're welcome, glad you enjoyed it!
THANK U SO MUCH--A WINNER OF AN IDEA
Thanks for the comment, glad you liked the video! Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Ty for video
You're welcome Ronald, glad it was helpful. Cheers!~ Bellarmine
Screw all that, cut a circular peace of metal weld it to shaft bolt on wheels
That’s dumb. Just put anti seize on when you get the tractor
4x4 and a 4lb sledge to the back of the rim and rotate it as u pound on it will get it to.
Hi Nathan, Thanks for the comment. Thing is, I was doing just that before, using the PB Blaster too, and NO WAY it was coming off, I was ready to give up before I tried this. There's no way I could have applied the amount of force needed using a sledge hammer (the 2-ton jack I started with was too small (!), I'd have busted the transaxle first. I've seen / heard horror stories about impacts / hammering on the transaxle internal snap-rings and so on, pretty weak that way. Seen a few bad examples of expensive damage, and don't want to experience one myself. I suppose some light tapping wouldn't hurt, but mine was stuck real good - 'welded' on as others have said! I'd just try my 'safe n' easy' method first....:o) Thanks for your comment Nathan, and stay well - strange times we're living in, strange times...:o) Cheers!~ Bellarmine
I have a go kart and I tried to do that and I may not be strong enough, but it is really rusted on there and this did not work for me. I again may just not be strong enough. Might try again though.
@@dwightschrute3862 i did a sledge to the back of a wheelhorse rj58 rim to get it off once. I bent the rim all to hell. ever since then i try to use some pb blaster and pound it on then pound on the back and rotate while doing it. It will pop off eventually.
Thanks for the comment Dwight! I do not recommend 'pounding' on the rim / axle, as there's no way to apply the amount of force needed using a sledge hammer, and a good chance of wrecking the transaxle! For example, with my wheel, the 2-ton jack I started with was too small (!) I've seen / heard horror stories about impacts / hammering on the transaxle internal snap-rings and so on, pretty weak that way. Seen a few bad examples of expensive transaxle damage, and don't want to experience one myself. I would recommend just trying my 'safe n' easy' hydraulic method first. If it doesn't work, then nothing lost, go ahead and pound if you want nothing to lose then so-to-speak lol. Let me know how it goes or if you have any other questions Dwight - Cheers!~ Bellarmine
smart
Thanks!