There's no telling how many people you saved from an emergency room visit, be it a back injury, slipping and falling, getting cut etc. I'm watching this video because I'm exactly where you were at before deciding to take it to the tire shop. I'LL PAY 20-30 dollars to avoid injury all day long. Thank you for making this video and being honest with everyone. I appreciate you. Liked, subscribed, hit the notification bell.
I’m about to buy Chevron tires for my lawn tractor and wanted to know tips and tricks to do it myself. This video was very helpful. I will now take them to my local tire shop “myself”.
You push the tire that is already over the wheel down off of and past where the bead seats to where the wheel is narrower, stand on it with 1 foot or get someone else to holding it way down there. Then you will have the space to pull the other side over the rim. If the opposite side in on the bead, you will never get the other side over.
A tire hammer is a life saver for mounting along with tire irons that are at least a couple feet long. Mounting the second bead is easily done with tire irons until the last bit then use the rubber headed tire hammer and pound it home.
I wish I found this sooner. I had the same exact problem and mutilated the bead. Now I have to get tubes to keep air. Gonna fold em and go to the shop. Thanks for sharing your experience. I thought it was me.
Been in this predicament before. I too don’t like to fold especially when the cost for simple things to be fixed. The machine literally has the capacity to apply the pressure onto the rubber tire that muscles just can’t. Also I hate having to spend ridiculous amounts to have a machine do something simple in a couple seconds. I understand shops are there to make a profit but considering it’s a machine doing simple tasks such as this one the price is hard for me to swallow sometimes because it not a hard job for machine to complete. It’s literally worth $5-10 bucks even with today’s inflation. Of course, this is my opinion on certain issues not everything we have to over pay for. Thanks for sharing your video.
I just did the rear tires on my John Deere Z335E this week. I used a "modded" Harbor Freight Manual Tire Changer (lots of videos on this). Even so, I got stuck in the same place you did. The tire bead was starting to get torn up. I took a deep breath and readjusted the "duckbill" carefully. It went on fairly easily, the second time. It was a minor change from complete failure to easy success. I used an "air blaster" to seat the bead. Yes, it can be very frustrating.
It is much easier to get the second side of the tire on the rim if you have the rim's inner diameter at its smallest diameter closest to the edge of the second tire cord, to allow it to go over the rim of the hub. The opposite side of the tire can then go against the smaller diameter of the inner rim to give more room to get the tire cord edge over the rim. Been there, done that.
I was yesterday and today in your spot. Saw a guy that made a tire rim holder from an all thread and a vise. he bolted the hub to the vise putting the all thread thru the hub to keep it from moving. Then he used vise grips to help guide the tire towards the center of the rim. The vise grips also kept it from slipping back off. I fought with 2 tires yesterday and using a vise and an all thread bolt was able to put both tires on in a few minutes, I had spent HOURS trying yesterday and this morning and would get almost half way on then something would slip. All thread to hold the hub stationery and a push on the tire to force it to sit in the center of the hub allowed it to work easily
I feel your pain, brother, as I wrestled with putting a tube in a rear, lawn tractor tire today. I did buy the Harbor Freight mini tire changer kit but with limited space around my vice I ended up using a carpenter's flat bar-nail puller tool to get the tire down inside the rim. All was looking good and I was quite pleased as I pumped in the air and it got hard. As I reached for the valve cap, something very odd and unexpected happened. As I reached down to screw the valve cap on, the valve stem slowly receeded inside the rim and disappeared. It's gone down under, mate. But on the bright side, I'll never have to worry about adding air to it if it develops a slow leak. When it goes flat, I'll get to do this all over again but next time with a new tire.
Oh yeah.. “Game Over” for me. With watching your video I thought there was a glimmer of hope. The 2 ply’s came off somewhat easy. HOWEVER….. trying to get the 4 ply’s on was a real challenge. So off to the Lawn & Power Equipment shop to let them mount them.
Holy smokes! I just fought this battle yesterday. Setting the beads was the biggest PIA. Tried several tricks including the starting fluid trick. Nothing worked. Eventually used a 5 gallon bucket to set the bead on the non-valve stem side by stepping on the rim. Then flipped the tire, pressed down on the rim and filled while pressing down.
I can’t tell you how thankful I am for you to have had that bucket tip on these comments. I bought some of those tires that have the concave center before you install them. And the sides where the beads are are caved in so much from the factory that it takes a whole lotta effort to make them pop out to the sides of the rims once they’re put in. That 5 gallon tip certainly did the trick thanks buddy
I just did a tire change on all four on my LT160. By the third tire I got pretty good at handling getting them on and off. It does take a lot of force to get the new tire around the second half. The tires you have probably made it even harder. In any case, it was a bone crushing job.
I still enjoyed watching your attempt to mount the tires. I also failed trying to mount two 11x4x4 front tires on my little Craftsman DRM 500. I took them to the pros and they gave up after having them for 3 days. They even bent my rims trying to get the tires on the wheels. They gave me two tubs no charge. I ended up reinstalling my old bald tires back onto the rims until I figure something else out.
We used a tire machine to mount tires even 50 years ago. It was pneumatic and you locked the rim down and it was all pretty much mechanical but even then it took a little effort. The worst thing was when radials came in. Radials in those days for some reason were kind of compressed in the middle so the bead would never meet the rim for a good seal when mounting. They had to install a special additional part to the machine that blew air up from the bottom side so that the thing would seal. It went around the whole tire at the bottom and had air holes in it and when you attached the air hose to the stem and hit the air, it went in through the stem and then up from behind the tire. Radials were always more trouble, at least for the first few years. The thing to watch out for back then was the steel belt wearing through the tires, you had to keep an eye on old tires or you could get cut from the steel fibers in the belt on a worn tire being replaced. We used to sand the bead with a wire brush on a drill before mounting and also the area where the new stem went in. We never used any sealer of any kind on the rims. Totally unnecessary, just checked the bead for leaks before mounting and 99.9% of the time no problem at all. I am amazed at the BS where they don't replace the stem with every new tire, really bad service to not do that. As for taking a tire off a car, the ones with fender skirts could really be a pain and as I recall I think it was Buicks or maybe Oldsmobiles where the rim liked to rust itself onto the brake drums. For that you hit it from behind with a sledge hammer but sometimes they had to be taken to someone to heat up the rim with a torch to break it.
Tires are always fun to deal with. I haven't had to do lawn tractor tires yet, but what I do for automotive tires is get my hi-lift jack, put the runner under the rear bumper of my truck where the hitch plate is, put the jack's foot plate on the tire just outside of where the bead is, and crank the jack up until the bead breaks or slips under the wheel (depending on whether the tire's going on or off). The weight of the truck applies far, far more force than I could myself. It's a janky way of doing it, and I really should buy the proper tools, but it's worked for me up to this point.
My neighbor & I got one 20x10x8 on in a little over an hour, but the second proved too much of a challenge. A third guy made all the difference - took us 15 minutes with 3 sets of hands!
Only issue you were having with that top bead is you need it to sit in the centre well to allow that last bit to pop over onto the rim good effort tho mate 👍
It looks like the reason the second bead would not go on (at 9:10) was due to the "on" portion sitting at the wheel outer diameter. It needs to be pushed down to the smaller diameter to allow the far side to be pried over the rim. The bead has a fixed diameter, and is reinforced with steel wire, so no stretching can be done to mount it. That's the "trick" - push the far side of bead #2 farther down to give more of that tire bead diameter to the not-yet-pried-over region. You had the right idea using a clamp to push the bead down, but the far side of the clamp should have been placed on the steel lip of the wheel, not against the tire. Had you done that, I think you might have been able to "git-'er-done." I'm 73, and wrestling with mounting new tires on my JD 300X series, and with 3 spoony chopsticks am able to R&R the tires, I just can't get the tires spread wide enough to touch both rims, so I can get air in and SEAT them. In the late '60s I worked at a gas station, and we had these rings that would sit down on one side of the wheel and tire, and fill the gap so you could fill the tire, spread it, and get it to seal on the rims. It was like a tuna can with no ends, just a ring, about 6-8" tall, sheet steel with a rubber inner liner. We'd slick it up with the green juice, slip it on to fit the rim diameter, and seal against the tire just outside the bead. Then, we'd fill air into the tire , and the ring would slide up the rim as the tire ballooned to touch the rim. They worked, but were dangerous, which is probably why they aren't around today. But I have straps on the middle of the tread, pulled as tight as I can get them, and that STILL leaves the bead an inch from the rim. I know the starter fluid trick, but don't want to do that except as a last resort.
Clamp a vertical steel rod into your bench vise to make a little tire machine. Put the tire over the vertical rod and use the rod as a fulcrum for two tire irons. Steve's Small Engine Saloon has a good video on this method.
You did good man those tires are tough sometimes the bead on some tires are hard to drop in the drop center for example some 12-16.5 skid steer tires when you mount second side that tire is big enough you have both feet on tire keep 1 stationary and follow with the other and when it gets more then halfway but the tire doesn’t drop in the drop center behind you you have to give her the old kick with your foot usually they will drop after a few kicks helps if you have some weight on you too 😂 or vice grips pry down as far as you can before you start clamp the vice grips and go one side only and the vice grips will hold the other side and make sure the tires stays in the drop center again you did good man those little tires are hard compared to the big stuff 👍🏻
I tried to get those exact tires on those exact rims several years ago. Got the first side on, couldn’t get the other side on to save my life, took to my local gas station and the experienced tire guy had t9 wrestle them a bit too
At least this is real, unlike many other vids that show them using a tire that is as flimsy as paper. I've already torn the bead up and will need either tubes or new tires. TH-cam isn't always the best plave for accurate info.
You were 90% there! Your tire irons were just too short. LEVERAGE with 18" or 24" tire spoons woulda been the ticket! However your video was most enjoyable. Maybe because I'm a little sadistic? You know the tire shop said "that's the easiest $25 we got today! LOL! Thanks for putting this up!
I agree that with larger irons, this would have worked much better. I was just trying to use what I had. The tire shop made a quick buck and it was much faster than me waiting for new irons to get here. Thanks for watching.
Your video was still a fun watch. It coulda easily been us that was trying to get a 4ply or 6ply onto that iddybiddy rim. Your sacrificial attempt was well worth the watch and probably taking it to the tire shop might be the preferred option for those of us who noted how easy & simple that was. $25? Worth every penny. @@homebuiltshop
After your first video with the front tire, I was skeptical that I would want to try this. After this video, I've decided to get a pro to do it. I would probably spend more money for the tools anyhow.
I agree with some of the other commenters, right tool for the job. Use tire iron instead of screwdrivers, Stabilize/ mount rim to something to prevent it from movement. Then it's not that difficult to change the tires.
Been there done that. I had 2 John Deere 5075 tractors pushing down on it. Spend the $10 at let the machine do It before you damage something or hurt your self.
those are some hard tires to change, if you have a large bench vise, stick a steel rod in it make sure its super tight, then place the center of wheel over the steel rod, take a large pry bar in the tire and rotate the pry bar against the center steel pole like the old fashioned tire machines did.
Been there. The valve side of rim needs to be supported so that side bead can ‘seat’ where it belongs. Then you are pushing the other bead down against the rim instead of pulling the rim up and fighting the tire sidewall width.
I just got through with two tires close to what you had. It physically whipped my ass, and I was only putting in tubes-but I got 'em, I will see in the morning if I pinched the tubes. Then, I decided to look at some videos to see what I did wrong, looks like not getting someone else to do it was it. Would have helped to have some tire spoons too, all I have is a couple of pry bars and a large flat screw driver. This job really sucks.
When you pry on one side of the tire. The opposite side must be down in the deep groove of the rim. You will never stretch a tire far enough to get it over the rim unless you are in the groove.
Oh gee I am a DIY all the way but tackled this and ran into years of Slime and I got nowhere fast, so then decided the $13 at Walmart was way worth it!
Well im buying a set of the tires for my lawn tractor i was going to buy the tools too, but if you had no luck and its just 25 bucks seems like a drivd to the tire storez a better idea. I think if you had larger pry bars you would have gotten it. Longer leverage
I do feel that larger tire irons would have helped a lot. I'd check with your local tire shop and compare the cost to have them mount the tires vs buying your own irons. For me, the best cost was to have the shop do it.
Hey;) Try using 2 straps on each side of the tire and sinch it down so the beads get together. bit easier;) used this technique on most tires, even 22.5 truck tires;)
I’m getting ready to put four new tires on my mower. The turf tread spins too easily so I’d rather have serious tread for mowing and other small projects that I have for it.
Good video of the reality on changing those type of tires; I think you could have got it on with a larger tire spoons; those tire spoons you were working seemed just out of leverage range for that size tire. Those smaller spoons are good for the front wheels as you demo’d in your other video and you prob could have gotten away with them on the standard rear turf tire, but the aggressive tread tire definitely needed more “umph” leverage:-) Either way good DIY vid :-)
LONGER TIRE IRONS is what you needed... leverage is what you were lacking. You almost had it, you had your knees on the tire smashing tire to the small part of rim. Heavy ply tires you need leverage.... also you could take a tire mallet and finish getting bead to slide in...
I only watched your video for two minutes and thought that mowing the grass won't get a good result if one corner has a tire with a much larger diameter. It means that the cutting unit is higher on the side of the new tire than on the side of the old tire. And so the end result is not very neat on flat ground if the grass is not cut equally short everywhere... - Is your lawn now "stepped" when you ride on tires of different diameters?
@@homebuiltshop Ok. So you changed both sides, but you didn't mention it in your video, so many may get the impression that the height difference of the radius (from the axle to the wear pin) doesn't matter. Since the rear tires are higher than the original, do the front tires also have the same height difference compared to the original? So that the cutting unit moves in the same position as originally.
I'm really impressed with your efforts, but Jeff, sidewalls of your new tyres are extremely straight/hard... So you got no chances from the beginning. However, negative experience it is also experience)
No shame in getting a pro to do something brother. I know the feeling. They have the equipment we don't. You would have been able to easily put that tire on if you had the proper equipment. I can imagine how difficult it must have been to try to get that last bit of tire on the rim. I think it's a physics thing because the same thing happens to me and my bicycle tire. I eventually get it on with a screwdriver but, we know a bicycle tire is way thinner than that tractor tire.
Don't be to down from the defeat. Just think, what if you would have managed to get both tires on just to find one was on backwards. Now that would royally suck.
Those Ag tires are going to destroy your lawn. When mounting, push the tire over the wheel, not the wheel into the tire. The bead has to be in the drop center of the wheel in order to get it over the rim.
I could see you were not able to compress the tire down for the bead to reach the center of the rim. You basically were trying to put the bead on where it rest on the rim. This is impossible to do.
Don't feel bad... I'm at same point to let the pro with his machine do it. The semi ag design I got is a 6 ply tire by sunf that should work great on my farm! The full ag tire on my Ford 3910II loads up in the NC clay.
Nope... tried this and a bunch of other things like a Air chisel, BFH on the front of axle, back of rim, soaking with PB Blaster for weeks, heat on rim, front and rear, wheel puller and jamming wood behind the flat tire and reinflating to 70+psi in hopes it would force it off the rim. NOPE... nothing worked, I have searched the internet for some method that was a tried and true way. This rim is stuck! Funny thing was the opposite side came right off no problem!
I had the same problem getting the wheel off mower. My wheel had bearings for the axle and I had to forcefully beat the rim from the back side with a sledge hammer to break the bearing apart so that the wheel would come off of the axle. I bought new bearings and pressed them into the rim. But before I could reinstall the wheel, I had to grind down the ridge that had formed on the outer edge of the axle so that the new bearings would slide on. Hopefully yours doesn't have the ridge and is just stuck from corrosion.
put the wrong side of the rim in fist, the side with the smaller sholder goes in first so you can put that side bead in the smaller part and the tire kinda flexes egg shapped? hard to explain. if you watch someone chamge a atv or more flexable tire its a "OHHHH" moment
You did not use tire irons. With real tire irons it is way easier than trying to use those pry bar things you had. Tire irons are the shape they are for a reason
The creator of this video uses good technique but if it was summer he should have left the tire in the sun, or used a heat gun, to make it more pliable. Tire spoons were much too short also.
No way, tires that size are required to have compression seal so they don't come off while in motion. If it would be that simple to do with human strength then it wouldn't be a need for a tire compression machine. No need to kill yourself. Call that guy.
Your gonna regret putting the tractor lug tires on your mower. Big....really big mistake. Before when your turf tread tire lost traction and spun it was because your mower was in some kind of a bind (not level like an embankment) so it gave way and spun. In other words it became the weakest link. Now with the tractor tire lug, it shouldn't spin. It's no longer the weakest link. Now your transmission is😳. Not a good idea making the transmission on a hydro type transmission. I get it. It's easier to install lugs than get off the mower and move it around so it stops spinning the tire but you do t realize the strain your Now putting your transmission in now. It won't hurt it all at once but over time your transmission will begin to weaken more quickly. Hydro transmissions aren't very forgiving when it comes to putting them in a straining situation
Hydro transmissions are EXTREMELY forgiving in strain. They don't have mechanical leverage to break . It can either turn it's own internal systems and move forward or it can't. In your scenario, where before a turf tire might slip and spin, now it might not and just bog the motor down.
@@homebuiltshop I just did all four on my Wheel Horse. Same thread you're putting on. I used tire soap and it wasn't too bad. I also "cheated" and used tubes in all four.
The first thing you should have done was look on TH-cam to see the right way to do the job! You would have seen that all you really needed was a longer pry bar! LEVERAGE MAN! Use your head! And as far as implying that the smart thing to do was to give up and spend the $25.00. HA! What a Joke! The smart thing to do was to NOT put this video online. I will give you credit for making me laugh. I'm still tearing up with laughter.
Mirror image of my day trying to put new tires on. Nice to see someone else who had as much trouble as I did.
There's no telling how many people you saved from an emergency room visit, be it a back injury, slipping and falling, getting cut etc. I'm watching this video because I'm exactly where you were at before deciding to take it to the tire shop. I'LL PAY 20-30 dollars to avoid injury all day long. Thank you for making this video and being honest with everyone. I appreciate you. Liked, subscribed, hit the notification bell.
Thank you. I appreciate that.
It's all about the tools and equipment my friend, don't beat yourself up. I pay no one to do anything, if possible. Great effort and killer tires!
I’m about to buy Chevron tires for my lawn tractor and wanted to know tips and tricks to do it myself. This video was very helpful. I will now take them to my local tire shop “myself”.
Thats probably a good idea. It will likely save you a lot of time and frustration. Lol.
You push the tire that is already over the wheel down off of and past where the bead seats to where the wheel is narrower, stand on it with 1 foot or get someone else to holding it way down there. Then you will have the space to pull the other side over the rim. If the opposite side in on the bead, you will never get the other side over.
Great info, this is definitely not a one man job.
As soon as I saw those new tires, I thought this will be interesting. Yet, I didn't expect defeat. You're a good and honest man to have posted this.
A tire hammer is a life saver for mounting along with tire irons that are at least a couple feet long. Mounting the second bead is easily done with tire irons until the last bit then use the rubber headed tire hammer and pound it home.
Appreciate this video. It helped me get my mothers mower back in action. She had 4 dry rotted tires that would never hold air.
Same thing with me today those sidewalls are thick and firm, going to the tire shop tomorrow. Thanks.
I wish I found this sooner. I had the same exact problem and mutilated the bead. Now I have to get tubes to keep air. Gonna fold em and go to the shop. Thanks for sharing your experience. I thought it was me.
Been in this predicament before. I too don’t like to fold especially when the cost for simple things to be fixed. The machine literally has the capacity to apply the pressure onto the rubber tire that muscles just can’t. Also I hate having to spend ridiculous amounts to have a machine do something simple in a couple seconds. I understand shops are there to make a profit but considering it’s a machine doing simple tasks such as this one the price is hard for me to swallow sometimes because it not a hard job for machine to complete. It’s literally worth $5-10 bucks even with today’s inflation. Of course, this is my opinion on certain issues not everything we have to over pay for. Thanks for sharing your video.
I just did the rear tires on my John Deere Z335E this week. I used a "modded" Harbor Freight Manual Tire Changer (lots of videos on this). Even so, I got stuck in the same place you did. The tire bead was starting to get torn up. I took a deep breath and readjusted the "duckbill" carefully. It went on fairly easily, the second time. It was a minor change from complete failure to easy success. I used an "air blaster" to seat the bead. Yes, it can be very frustrating.
It is much easier to get the second side of the tire on the rim if you have the rim's inner diameter at its smallest diameter closest to the edge of the second tire cord, to allow it to go over the rim of the hub. The opposite side of the tire can then go against the smaller diameter of the inner rim to give more room to get the tire cord edge over the rim. Been there, done that.
I tried it both ways off camera, the tire just wouldn't cooperate. Lol.
I was yesterday and today in your spot. Saw a guy that made a tire rim holder from an all thread and a vise. he bolted the hub to the vise putting the all thread thru the hub to keep it from moving. Then he used vise grips to help guide the tire towards the center of the rim. The vise grips also kept it from slipping back off. I fought with 2 tires yesterday and using a vise and an all thread bolt was able to put both tires on in a few minutes, I had spent HOURS trying yesterday and this morning and would get almost half way on then something would slip. All thread to hold the hub stationery and a push on the tire to force it to sit in the center of the hub allowed it to work easily
See yeah this i am doing soon wish me luck. First time putting atv tires on 12" rims for my mud mower.
You can do it!
I feel your pain, brother, as I wrestled with putting a tube in a rear, lawn tractor tire today. I did buy the Harbor Freight mini tire changer kit but with limited space around my vice I ended up using a carpenter's flat bar-nail puller tool to get the tire down inside the rim. All was looking good and I was quite pleased as I pumped in the air and it got hard. As I reached for the valve cap, something very odd and unexpected happened. As I reached down to screw the valve cap on, the valve stem slowly receeded inside the rim and disappeared. It's gone down under, mate. But on the bright side, I'll never have to worry about adding air to it if it develops a slow leak. When it goes flat, I'll get to do this all over again but next time with a new tire.
Oh yeah.. “Game Over” for me. With watching your video I thought there was a glimmer of hope. The 2 ply’s came off somewhat easy. HOWEVER….. trying to get the 4 ply’s on was a real challenge. So off to the Lawn & Power Equipment shop to let them mount them.
Holy smokes! I just fought this battle yesterday. Setting the beads was the biggest PIA. Tried several tricks including the starting fluid trick. Nothing worked. Eventually used a 5 gallon bucket to set the bead on the non-valve stem side by stepping on the rim. Then flipped the tire, pressed down on the rim and filled while pressing down.
I can’t tell you how thankful I am for you to have had that bucket tip on these comments. I bought some of those tires that have the concave center before you install them. And the sides where the beads are are caved in so much from the factory that it takes a whole lotta effort to make them pop out to the sides of the rims once they’re put in. That 5 gallon tip certainly did the trick thanks buddy
I just did a tire change on all four on my LT160. By the third tire I got pretty good at handling getting them on and off. It does take a lot of force to get the new tire around the second half. The tires you have probably made it even harder. In any case, it was a bone crushing job.
I still enjoyed watching your attempt to mount the tires. I also failed trying to mount two 11x4x4 front tires on my little Craftsman DRM 500. I took them to the pros and they gave up after having them for 3 days. They even bent my rims trying to get the tires on the wheels. They gave me two tubs no charge. I ended up reinstalling my old bald tires back onto the rims until I figure something else out.
I got the front tires changed without issues. These back tires were a different story. Lol.
We used a tire machine to mount tires even 50 years ago. It was pneumatic and you locked the rim down and it was all pretty much mechanical but even then it took a little effort. The worst thing was when radials came in. Radials in those days for some reason were kind of compressed in the middle so the bead would never meet the rim for a good seal when mounting. They had to install a special additional part to the machine that blew air up from the bottom side so that the thing would seal. It went around the whole tire at the bottom and had air holes in it and when you attached the air hose to the stem and hit the air, it went in through the stem and then up from behind the tire.
Radials were always more trouble, at least for the first few years. The thing to watch out for back then was the steel belt wearing through the tires, you had to keep an eye on old tires or you could get cut from the steel fibers in the belt on a worn tire being replaced. We used to sand the bead with a wire brush on a drill before mounting and also the area where the new stem went in.
We never used any sealer of any kind on the rims. Totally unnecessary, just checked the bead for leaks before mounting and 99.9% of the time no problem at all. I am amazed at the BS where they don't replace the stem with every new tire, really bad service to not do that.
As for taking a tire off a car, the ones with fender skirts could really be a pain and as I recall I think it was Buicks or maybe Oldsmobiles where the rim liked to rust itself onto the brake drums. For that you hit it from behind with a sledge hammer but sometimes they had to be taken to someone to heat up the rim with a torch to break it.
Tires are always fun to deal with. I haven't had to do lawn tractor tires yet, but what I do for automotive tires is get my hi-lift jack, put the runner under the rear bumper of my truck where the hitch plate is, put the jack's foot plate on the tire just outside of where the bead is, and crank the jack up until the bead breaks or slips under the wheel (depending on whether the tire's going on or off). The weight of the truck applies far, far more force than I could myself. It's a janky way of doing it, and I really should buy the proper tools, but it's worked for me up to this point.
6:40 dish soap for easy tire mounting
I did a lawn tractor tire once. Never again. 😂
My neighbor & I got one 20x10x8 on in a little over an hour, but the second proved too much of a challenge. A third guy made all the difference - took us 15 minutes with 3 sets of hands!
Only issue you were having with that top bead is you need it to sit in the centre well to allow that last bit to pop over onto the rim good effort tho mate 👍
Thanks. I had to try it. Lol.
Tip: Jack up your tractor and mount the rim back onto the tractor. Then, use two 24" tire irons to install the new tire.
Is that easier? I usually take the whole wheel of the tractor and put it back on when the new tire is on.
Thanks for sharing. I’m trying the same size and tread on my JD right now. I think I’ll wait for the tire shop to open.
Wow that looks like a lot of work
It was for sure, and I still couldn't get it. These things happen from time to time. Lol.
It looks like the reason the second bead would not go on (at 9:10) was due to the "on" portion sitting at the wheel outer diameter. It needs to be pushed down to the smaller diameter to allow the far side to be pried over the rim. The bead has a fixed diameter, and is reinforced with steel wire, so no stretching can be done to mount it. That's the "trick" - push the far side of bead #2 farther down to give more of that tire bead diameter to the not-yet-pried-over region.
You had the right idea using a clamp to push the bead down, but the far side of the clamp should have been placed on the steel lip of the wheel, not against the tire. Had you done that, I think you might have been able to "git-'er-done."
I'm 73, and wrestling with mounting new tires on my JD 300X series, and with 3 spoony chopsticks am able to R&R the tires, I just can't get the tires spread wide enough to touch both rims, so I can get air in and SEAT them.
In the late '60s I worked at a gas station, and we had these rings that would sit down on one side of the wheel and tire, and fill the gap so you could fill the tire, spread it, and get it to seal on the rims. It was like a tuna can with no ends, just a ring, about 6-8" tall, sheet steel with a rubber inner liner. We'd slick it up with the green juice, slip it on to fit the rim diameter, and seal against the tire just outside the bead.
Then, we'd fill air into the tire , and the ring would slide up the rim as the tire ballooned to touch the rim.
They worked, but were dangerous, which is probably why they aren't around today.
But I have straps on the middle of the tread, pulled as tight as I can get them, and that STILL leaves the bead an inch from the rim.
I know the starter fluid trick, but don't want to do that except as a last resort.
Clamp a vertical steel rod into your bench vise to make a little tire machine. Put the tire over the vertical rod and use the rod as a fulcrum for two tire irons. Steve's Small Engine Saloon has a good video on this method.
Those ag tread tires are stiff as all get out when new! My hat’s off to you! Great video, though!
You did good man those tires are tough sometimes the bead on some tires are hard to drop in the drop center for example some 12-16.5 skid steer tires when you mount second side that tire is big enough you have both feet on tire keep 1 stationary and follow with the other and when it gets more then halfway but the tire doesn’t drop in the drop center behind you you have to give her the old kick with your foot usually they will drop after a few kicks helps if you have some weight on you too 😂 or vice grips pry down as far as you can before you start clamp the vice grips and go one side only and the vice grips will hold the other side and make sure the tires stays in the drop center again you did good man those little tires are hard compared to the big stuff 👍🏻
Its 10 pm. Im in my shop alone, pissed, with my 5 acre property like 6 inches long..... lol
Lol, it's called right tool for the job! Thanks for sharing
I tried to get those exact tires on those exact rims several years ago. Got the first side on, couldn’t get the other side on to save my
life, took to my local gas station and the experienced tire guy had t9 wrestle them a bit too
At least this is real, unlike many other vids that show them using a tire that is as flimsy as paper. I've already torn the bead up and will need either tubes or new tires. TH-cam isn't always the best plave for accurate info.
HBW i thought you were wrong i just joined you 1 went on easy the 2nd one i damaged the seal. thanks for the video
You were 90% there! Your tire irons were just too short. LEVERAGE with 18" or 24" tire spoons woulda been the ticket!
However your video was most enjoyable. Maybe because I'm a little sadistic? You know the tire shop said "that's the easiest $25 we got today! LOL! Thanks for putting this up!
I agree that with larger irons, this would have worked much better. I was just trying to use what I had. The tire shop made a quick buck and it was much faster than me waiting for new irons to get here. Thanks for watching.
Your video was still a fun watch. It coulda easily been us that was trying to get a 4ply or 6ply onto that iddybiddy rim. Your sacrificial attempt was well worth the watch and probably taking it to the tire shop might be the preferred option for those of us who noted how easy & simple that was. $25? Worth every penny. @@homebuiltshop
i highly reccomend the harbor mini tire changer for this job. at $60 it is a real lifesaver.
That kind of stuff is why I drink at night.
After your first video with the front tire, I was skeptical that I would want to try this. After this video, I've decided to get a pro to do it. I would probably spend more money for the tools anyhow.
I agree, It was cheaper to have a shop do it than to buy bigger tire irons.
I agree with some of the other commenters, right tool for the job. Use tire iron instead of screwdrivers, Stabilize/ mount rim to something to prevent it from movement. Then it's not that difficult to change the tires.
Been there done that. I had 2 John Deere 5075 tractors pushing down on it. Spend the $10 at let the machine do It before you damage something or hurt your self.
For sure. I thought it was worth the try but much faster to have the shop do it.
those are some hard tires to change, if you have a large bench vise, stick a steel rod in it make sure its super tight, then place the center of wheel over the steel rod, take a large pry bar in the tire and rotate the pry bar against the center steel pole like the old fashioned tire machines did.
That would work. I don't have a heavy enough workbench so the vise wouldn't move around.
No bench vise? Try driving a steel rod into the ground. That should also work.
thank you for that lesson well said.
Been there. The valve side of rim needs to be supported so that side bead can ‘seat’ where it belongs. Then you are pushing the other bead down against the rim instead of pulling the rim up and fighting the tire sidewall width.
The tires you removed were 2 ply sidewalls. The tires you installed are either 4 ply or 6 ply sidewalls and make manual installation difficult.
That explains why it was so difficult. Lol.
I just got through with two tires close to what you had. It physically whipped my ass, and I was only putting in tubes-but I got 'em, I will see in the morning if I pinched the tubes. Then, I decided to look at some videos to see what I did wrong, looks like not getting someone else to do it was it. Would have helped to have some tire spoons too, all I have is a couple of pry bars and a large flat screw driver. This job really sucks.
When you pry on one side of the tire. The opposite side must be down in the deep groove of the rim. You will never stretch a tire far enough to get it over the rim unless you are in the groove.
Oh gee I am a DIY all the way but tackled this and ran into years of Slime and I got nowhere fast, so then decided the $13 at Walmart was way worth it!
Well im buying a set of the tires for my lawn tractor i was going to buy the tools too, but if you had no luck and its just 25 bucks seems like a drivd to the tire storez a better idea.
I think if you had larger pry bars you would have gotten it. Longer leverage
I do feel that larger tire irons would have helped a lot. I'd check with your local tire shop and compare the cost to have them mount the tires vs buying your own irons. For me, the best cost was to have the shop do it.
I believe those tires are directional.. Like an arrow pointing
You are correct. They are.
Hey;) Try using 2 straps on each side of the tire and sinch it down so the beads get together. bit easier;) used this technique on most tires, even 22.5 truck tires;)
I’m getting ready to put four new tires on my mower. The turf tread spins too easily so I’d rather have serious tread for mowing and other small projects that I have for it.
Dollars well spent.
Yes, I do agree here. I was just stuck. Lol.
To install the new tire it's easier to put the rim on floor soap it up and push tire on to the rim then use your tool to install last bead
Ive been at it for 6 hours
Isn't it the worst! Hope you get it.
Good video of the reality on changing those type of tires; I think you could have got it on with a larger tire spoons; those tire spoons you were working seemed just out of leverage range for that size tire. Those smaller spoons are good for the front wheels as you demo’d in your other video and you prob could have gotten away with them on the standard rear turf tire, but the aggressive tread tire definitely needed more “umph” leverage:-) Either way good DIY vid :-)
LONGER TIRE IRONS is what you needed... leverage is what you were lacking. You almost had it, you had your knees on the tire smashing tire to the small part of rim. Heavy ply tires you need leverage.... also you could take a tire mallet and finish getting bead to slide in...
The next time I need to do this, I'll get some larger iron and give it a shot.
I only watched your video for two minutes and thought that mowing the grass won't get a good result if one corner has a tire with a much larger diameter. It means that the cutting unit is higher on the side of the new tire than on the side of the old tire. And so the end result is not very neat on flat ground if the grass is not cut equally short everywhere...
- Is your lawn now "stepped" when you ride on tires of different diameters?
I have the same size tires on both sides.
@@homebuiltshop Ok. So you changed both sides, but you didn't mention it in your video, so many may get the impression that the height difference of the radius (from the axle to the wear pin) doesn't matter. Since the rear tires are higher than the original, do the front tires also have the same height difference compared to the original? So that the cutting unit moves in the same position as originally.
The secret to getting these tires on is to do it in the summer. Let them bake in the sun to soften the rubber before mounting
Yep, been there ... consider a crowbar, worked for me
You have to slam the tire into place and it will fall in
I'm really impressed with your efforts, but Jeff, sidewalls of your new tyres are extremely straight/hard... So you got no chances from the beginning. However, negative experience it is also experience)
Thanks Ivan. I agree with you that even this counts as experience. Its just another chance to learn something.
No shame in getting a pro to do something brother. I know the feeling. They have the equipment we don't. You would have been able to easily put that tire on if you had the proper equipment. I can imagine how difficult it must have been to try to get that last bit of tire on the rim. I think it's a physics thing because the same thing happens to me and my bicycle tire. I eventually get it on with a screwdriver but, we know a bicycle tire is way thinner than that tractor tire.
I've fought with many a bike tire as well. The right tools make a huge difference.
@@homebuiltshop Ha ha ha ha yeah
Got to use a rubber hammer for that last little bit
Use car to drive on to board, board is on tire. That’s how we did it after we lost the farm
thanks for being honest, I'll pay the $25!
What you did wrong was try to stretch the bead around the rim. They don't stretch you need to push one side down to a smaller section of the wheel.
Don't be to down from the defeat. Just think, what if you would have managed to get both tires on just to find one was on backwards. Now that would royally suck.
Lol, Yeah would be a drag.
Take it to a tire shop.
At least Slime rinses right off with water. I got about 9 extra years using slime.
Those Ag tires are going to destroy your lawn. When mounting, push the tire over the wheel, not the wheel into the tire. The bead has to be in the drop center of the wheel in order to get it over the rim.
The tires are working out great so far. I don't have what you'd imagine as a typical lawn, its more like a small field of green weeds. lol.
They're not! I've had the same tires on my lawn tractor for about 4 years now and they dont destroy the lawn.
Literally in the same position....
I got them changed but they would not air up no matter what I did !!! 😂
Looks like $25.00 well spent.
Yes it was. Lol.
I could see you were not able to compress the tire down for the bead to reach the center of the rim. You basically were trying to put the bead on where it rest on the rim. This is impossible to do.
Yeah, the tire was being very stubborn. It was difficult to get it to go where I wanted it. Oh well, lessons learned I guess. Lol.
@@homebuiltshop use a ratchet strap around the middle of the tire and it will help press it on so you can begin putting air in it
Men dont say gross like that over and over again
Don't feel bad... I'm at same point to let the pro with his machine do it.
The semi ag design I got is a 6 ply tire by sunf that should work great on my farm!
The full ag tire on my Ford 3910II loads up in the NC clay.
Nope... tried this and a bunch of other things like a Air chisel, BFH on the front of axle, back of rim, soaking with PB Blaster for weeks, heat on rim, front and rear, wheel puller and jamming wood behind the flat tire and reinflating to 70+psi in hopes it would force it off the rim. NOPE... nothing worked, I have searched the internet for some method that was a tried and true way. This rim is stuck! Funny thing was the opposite side came right off no problem!
I had the same problem getting the wheel off mower. My wheel had bearings for the axle and I had to forcefully beat the rim from the back side with a sledge hammer to break the bearing apart so that the wheel would come off of the axle. I bought new bearings and pressed them into the rim. But before I could reinstall the wheel, I had to grind down the ridge that had formed on the outer edge of the axle so that the new bearings would slide on. Hopefully yours doesn't have the ridge and is just stuck from corrosion.
put the wrong side of the rim in fist, the side with the smaller sholder goes in first so you can put that side bead in the smaller part and the tire kinda flexes egg shapped? hard to explain. if you watch someone chamge a atv or more flexable tire its a "OHHHH" moment
I know what you mean. This was a bit of a learning experience. Lol.
He did put the smaller shoulder in first.
Buy a mini tire changer
Those tires are directional.
Yes they are.
"Maybe there's some sort of technique that I'm doing wrong" should never be heard in a how-to video.
You know damn well wnybody that uses this kind of shit on a flat has never bothered trying to repair a tire or else they'd never use it again
You did not use tire irons. With real tire irons it is way easier than trying to use those pry bar things you had. Tire irons are the shape they are for a reason
The creator of this video uses good technique but if it was summer he should have left the tire in the sun, or used a heat gun, to make it more pliable. Tire spoons were much too short also.
No way, tires that size are required to have compression seal so they don't come off while in motion. If it would be that simple to do with human strength then it wouldn't be a need for a tire compression machine. No need to kill yourself. Call that guy.
Your gonna regret putting the tractor lug tires on your mower. Big....really big mistake.
Before when your turf tread tire lost traction and spun it was because your mower was in some kind of a bind (not level like an embankment) so it gave way and spun.
In other words it became the weakest link.
Now with the tractor tire lug, it shouldn't spin. It's no longer the weakest link. Now your transmission is😳. Not a good idea making the transmission on a hydro type transmission.
I get it. It's easier to install lugs than get off the mower and move it around so it stops spinning the tire but you do t realize the strain your Now putting your transmission in now. It won't hurt it all at once but over time your transmission will begin to weaken more quickly.
Hydro transmissions aren't very forgiving when it comes to putting them in a straining situation
Hydro transmissions are EXTREMELY forgiving in strain. They don't have mechanical leverage to break . It can either turn it's own internal systems and move forward or it can't.
In your scenario, where before a turf tire might slip and spin, now it might not and just bog the motor down.
@cyberslick18 tell that to the guy who installs a new hydro pump in it. I'm sure he'll get a big laugh out of it too😂🤣😅
$25.00 for one bead? RAPE
It was for mounting 2 tires.
@@homebuiltshop I just did all four on my Wheel Horse. Same thread you're putting on. I used tire soap and it wasn't too bad. I also "cheated" and used tubes in all four.
I thought this was the lost episode's of get a life
The first thing you should have done was look on TH-cam to see the right way to do the job!
You would have seen that all you really needed was a longer pry bar! LEVERAGE MAN! Use your head! And as far as implying that the smart thing to do was to give up and spend the $25.00. HA! What a Joke! The smart thing to do was to NOT put this video online. I will give you credit for making me laugh. I'm still tearing up with laughter.
I went to your youtube channel to learn the right way to do it and all I got was this message; "This channel doesn't have any content".