Nice work, Rich. You are really good at diagnosing stuff. The dyno tech I work with was a Volvo tech for decades. I was never exposed to those cars, and they have unique places to look and odd parts that fail. You have the skills to adapt to many different makes. That is so cool.
Good cleaning and paying attention to where the leak starts works every time. Being persistent to accomplish the task at hand is key to success. Soon enough with all your teaching your techs you will rarely ever need to go out and help them find problems 👊
Did my spark plugs and I didn’t tighten the clamp enough on the front end of the tubing. I put it back on and today I parked it and noticed some oil under the car. What could cause that.
Yes. That is why the seal was pushed out of place. Replacing the seal won't solve the problem. Excess pressure pressurized the seals beyond what they are rated for and causes them to blow. The PCV system replacement is maintenance, anyhow.
Hello Rich: Congratulations on your expert diagnosis + your ability to get replacement parts / components. IMHO nothing beats experience + the ability to use that muscle between your ears. The common sense factor always goes out the window when there are no trouble codes on the Scan Tool/ laptop. Excellent job sir, God Bless & my best to the family. TMP from N.J.
I replaced the grommet around the VVT solenoid on the valve cover on my 2009 Ford Escape V6 using a Fel-Pro part. I was able to push it in by hand using little effort. Oil seeped slowly around the grommet. I replaced the grommet with the Ford factory part and the fit in the valve cover was tight. No leaks!
Thanks Rich for another excellent diagnostic and repair video, I really enjoy your content, Wishing you and your family a wonderful weekend rest and enjoy!❤😊 bodymanbob from Alabama.
I'm on my second Ford Ranger since 2011, but I'm a Volvo guy at heart. All vehicle brands are known for something, doesn't matter. That was eye opener to not being "brand loyal" when it comes car makes.
those seals are only held in place by engine vacuum, if the pcv system gets clogged all the seals can pop out, hope it doesn't push the main rear crank seal.
I own a 2008 V70 2.5T. Recently had to some work done like radiator, condenser, thermostat, generator clutch/freewheel, etc. They took most of the front off, bumper and all. Only rusty spot was under the radiator that had a slow leak. Still drives very well. Parts can be expensive but the quality is really good. Good to know where that leak can be.
Now, if you really knew Volvos and this motor you would be able to advise your customer why his cam seals are popping out and be able to sell an additional service. 99% chance that his PCV system is clogged resulting in excessive crankcase pressure...pushing the seals out. If a PCV service is not done soon the other 3 cam seals and even the crank seals will be coming out soon.
I did one of those on one of these a little while ago on the other end of the cam, behind the cam pulley and timing belt. Another shop had already replaced the valve cover and then tried telling him it was the head gasket so he brought it to us, that thing was pouring oil, same as you it just slid out by hand lol
Rich, planning on changing the coolant in my 2017 Ram/3.6 liter, what are your thoughts on adding a bottle of Amsoil Coolant booster and protectant stuff to the new antifreeze? Or just run new ALL Vehicle Prestone anti-freeze amine. Should probably have the thermostat changed too? Yes or no. Thank you very much for your assistance. Gotta keep my truck happy, since the dentist is taking all my money 😡🤬😡
Hey Rich, been watching you for a while now but I got a problem with my 2021 f150 powerboost. It was involved in a side swipe accident and I changed out the entire passenger front suspension and for some reason I keep getting the check 4x4 service now light. My drive mode selection is unavailable also. I changed out the IWE on that side with a brand new one from dealer and thought that would be the issue. Receiving codes u0439:00-08, u2002:9e-0a, u0401:86-28, u0415:00-0a, and u1028:00-ae. Really hope you could help as I have been struggling with getting this to inspection for the last couple weeks.
Rich, speaking of oil leaks…my wife’s car has no dipstick. How in the world are we supposed to know if it’s losing oil if we can’t check it? I had a Chevy one time that was 2 quarts low before the idiot light came on. Are we supposed to depend on an oil light to tell us we have a problem? I’d appreciate your thoughts on the “no dipstick” engineering. 👍🏻
I have a leaking seals on the timing aide as well. Once I will put a lock tool on camshaft and will remove gears with vvt on it do I have to do anything with vvt once I will put it back? Do they need any adjustment? Or as long as gears are aligned with marks on the cover I will be fine?
Good job figuring out where the leek was coming from. Like usual, these dam engineers over design the car and don't pay attention to small things like gaskets or seals, their durability or ease of access to get at the part to change it. I will never own a European car again after having a VW Golf. They can keep their BMW, VW, Audi,Volvos! I stick to a Toyota and a Ford F150
Sometimes it’s the easiest things that make people chase their tails. Good find & fix
Nice work, Rich. You are really good at diagnosing stuff.
The dyno tech I work with was a Volvo tech for decades. I was never exposed to those cars, and they have unique places to look and odd parts that fail. You have the skills to adapt to many different makes. That is so cool.
Good cleaning and paying attention to where the leak starts works every time. Being persistent to accomplish the task at hand is key to success. Soon enough with all your teaching your techs you will rarely ever need to go out and help them find problems 👊
Check the PCV system , its usually the cause for cam seals leaking.
Did my spark plugs and I didn’t tighten the clamp enough on the front end of the tubing. I put it back on and today I parked it and noticed some oil under the car. What could cause that.
Yes. That is why the seal was pushed out of place. Replacing the seal won't solve the problem. Excess pressure pressurized the seals beyond what they are rated for and causes them to blow. The PCV system replacement is maintenance, anyhow.
Old school diagnosis works every time. Nice work. 👍
Hello Rich: Congratulations on your expert diagnosis + your ability to get replacement parts / components. IMHO nothing beats experience + the ability to use that muscle between your ears. The common sense factor always goes out the window when there are no trouble codes on the Scan Tool/ laptop. Excellent job sir, God Bless & my best to the family. TMP from N.J.
Tyvm
I replaced the grommet around the VVT solenoid on the valve cover on my 2009 Ford Escape V6 using a Fel-Pro part. I was able to push it in by hand using little effort. Oil seeped slowly around the grommet. I replaced the grommet with the Ford factory part and the fit in the valve cover was tight. No leaks!
Good morning Rich and guys hope all is well. Great job finding that oil leak they can be tricky sometimes.Have a great and safe weekend. God Bless.
Thanks Rich for another excellent diagnostic and repair video, I really enjoy your content, Wishing you and your family a wonderful weekend rest and enjoy!❤😊 bodymanbob from Alabama.
I'm on my second Ford Ranger since 2011, but I'm a Volvo guy at heart.
All vehicle brands are known for something, doesn't matter. That was eye opener to not being "brand loyal" when it comes car makes.
those seals are only held in place by engine vacuum, if the pcv system gets clogged all the seals can pop out, hope it doesn't push the main rear crank seal.
Those Volvo's can be a real pain to work on sometimes, but they can be very comfortable, nice cars to drive.
I own a 2008 V70 2.5T. Recently had to some work done like radiator, condenser, thermostat, generator clutch/freewheel, etc. They took most of the front off, bumper and all. Only rusty spot was under the radiator that had a slow leak. Still drives very well. Parts can be expensive but the quality is really good. Good to know where that leak can be.
Same leak in my 06 s60 t5. Took me forever to find. Thanks for the vid
Another fine job
4:48 ,ain't a spec of rust ,probably to the leaky oil seal dripping below 😁,that is a rather clean rust free Volvo
Likely not the root cause but rather a symptom of a commonly clogged PCV system on these engines.
It's been bone dry
Nice diag, Rich. Tough one to figure out.
Now, if you really knew Volvos and this motor you would be able to advise your customer why his cam seals are popping out and be able to sell an additional service. 99% chance that his PCV system is clogged resulting in excessive crankcase pressure...pushing the seals out. If a PCV service is not done soon the other 3 cam seals and even the crank seals will be coming out soon.
I did one of those on one of these a little while ago on the other end of the cam, behind the cam pulley and timing belt. Another shop had already replaced the valve cover and then tried telling him it was the head gasket so he brought it to us, that thing was pouring oil, same as you it just slid out by hand lol
Nice find
UV dyes are your friend. -But would need to catch it pretty quick before the oil/dye is misted all over the place.
Got a 2010 S80 with 140k+ on it and only one major repair in 10+ years I have owned it: broken cooling fan, $1500. Average $150 a year in repairs!
thank you
Close relative to the one I'm currently looking for : C30
Got happy thought it was an S60 R , But no just a regular s60
Rich, planning on changing the coolant in my 2017 Ram/3.6 liter, what are your thoughts on adding a bottle of Amsoil Coolant booster and protectant stuff to the new antifreeze? Or just run new ALL Vehicle Prestone anti-freeze amine. Should probably have the thermostat changed too? Yes or no. Thank you very much for your assistance. Gotta keep my truck happy, since the dentist is taking all my money 😡🤬😡
I don't think the cooling booster is really necessary but it's also not going to hurt anything either
Thanks for the wisdom,Sir.
Hey Rich, been watching you for a while now but I got a problem with my 2021 f150 powerboost. It was involved in a side swipe accident and I changed out the entire passenger front suspension and for some reason I keep getting the check 4x4 service now light. My drive mode selection is unavailable also. I changed out the IWE on that side with a brand new one from dealer and thought that would be the issue. Receiving codes u0439:00-08, u2002:9e-0a, u0401:86-28, u0415:00-0a, and u1028:00-ae. Really hope you could help as I have been struggling with getting this to inspection for the last couple weeks.
Rich, speaking of oil leaks…my wife’s car has no dipstick. How in the world are we supposed to know if it’s losing oil if we can’t check it? I had a Chevy one time that was 2 quarts low before the idiot light came on. Are we supposed to depend on an oil light to tell us we have a problem? I’d appreciate your thoughts on the “no dipstick” engineering. 👍🏻
There's got to be a way that you can monitor oil level if there's no dipstick through the cluster the instrument panel
The dash only tells the percentage of oil life remaining. No quantity or oil level.
Nooo VR seals… sad to say I avoid their parts. Very VR seal I’ve used has failed fairly quickly.
My oil leaking is leaking in the gasket by the valves ????? Have the same car
I can’t help but think that the seal may not have been properly seated during a previous repair.
Always go the extra mile,the difference between the pro's and the posers
Hi. Did you push seals all the way in?
Little passed flush
Thank you
I have a leaking seals on the timing aide as well. Once I will put a lock tool on camshaft and will remove gears with vvt on it do I have to do anything with vvt once I will put it back? Do they need any adjustment? Or as long as gears are aligned with marks on the cover I will be fine?
Good job figuring out where the leek was coming from. Like usual, these dam engineers over design the car and don't pay attention to small things like gaskets or seals, their durability or ease of access to get at the part to change it. I will never own a European car again after having a VW Golf. They can keep their BMW, VW, Audi,Volvos! I stick to a Toyota and a Ford F150
How much is a repair like this? I have same problem on same car
About 500