Donations www.paypal.me/SiRobb/ www.amazon.co.uk/shop/sirobb As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Using my Amazon links does not cost you any extra.
You stated in this video how easy it is to use the heel of your hand to install the seal in the oil pump off the car, but it was obvious later that you fought to get the seal onto the crank. The DIY person would have fits dealing with that. In the video you linked here you admitted that it is better to install the seal *after* the pump is installed, and having the right tool or something improvised is the way to go.
Please don't ever stop doing Volvo V70 D5 maintenance videos. I have just bough a V70 P2 Update D5 Auto with a Euro-3 engine (a unicorn, apparently) and your guidance in these videos is invaluable.
This fixed 90 percent of my leak, thank you! I later had to replace the vvt hubs and cam seals. Thank you sir ! Also folks clean that oil trap out and unclog your pcv valve !
Yep, all these seals end up failing due to a blocked PCV system. Upside is it's usually these seals that fail and not the rear main seal. I had to replace these and the cam seals, mine was mostly leaking from the cam seals but if you are going through the trouble to do them you might as well do these too while you are in there. Bought my 05 XC90 2.5T and the PCV system was so plugged I had to drop the oil pan to clean it all out.
Hello mate, thank you so so much for this video. I was panicking that the old car would need open heart surgery,and I would need open wallet surgery, but I'm relieved after watching this. Thank you again👍👍👍👍👍👍
Fair Play Si, appreciate the effort you go to, to make your vids. I never have the fortitude to start arsing around with camera shots of what I'm doing, nevermind breaking away from the task to explain. You're doing a fine job sir and I applaud your efforts [and the increased time it takes you to not only fix, but document] +1 from me!
thanks for the video! I thought my crank seal was leaking but never had oil on my timing belt and after seeing this I'm almost positive its that oil pump o-ring. Thankfully this task doesn't seem horribly difficult
I started with replacing my cvvt hubs firstly because the exhaust hub had excessive play and was leaking but it continued to leak from crank, Just did this oil pump and crank repair and it has cured all my oil leak ! Thanks
You're the Man, Si. But I've found if you are DIY'er that it is easier just to buy the special tools. You are already saving so money by DIY'ing that you can spend some if it making your life easier. It also saves time on the removal/install. You can also then sell the part used if you don't need it again. Thanks for the great video!
Thank you for the video I am doing this job now at the shop. Pretty simple and straight forward. Be aware though for anyone who is diying this job. Pay close attention when you're using the harmonic balancer puller as it can and will knock the crank out of time with the mark on the pump. I happened to notice this and had to backup the crank back in time before finishing pulling the balancer. I also went a step further and marked the crankshaft with a paint market in a straight line down so when reinstalling its lined up properly 👍.
No need to mark the crankshaft as the pulley is keyed and refits in one position only. You just make sure the dedicated mark on the pulley lines up with the dedicated mark on the oil pump housing before fitting the belt and again after manually turning the engine.
@@sirobb lol thank you, that made me super nervous. Rather be safe then sorry. Yes I used a big pair of pliers to line the pump up with the balancer/timing gear, knocked it out a few notches so good thing I double and triple check stuff 👍
@@sirobb I'm a flat rate tech at a 4 man shop over here in Youngstown ohio. I'm very cautious about what I do especially with timing. I ruined a f150 90k 5.4 motor because of a cam kicking out on me. Ruined all pistons and valves and had to get a scrap yard motor. So I figured it would be informative for someone attempting this job with no shop experience as I can see someone knocking the crank out of time remove the balancer and then ruining the motor because they didn't realize the crank turned from the original timing mark. Pain in the ass removing that oil pump 😂. Thank you for the video appreciate it.
Thanks for the video, going to have to do this soon since an oil leak is developing behind the crank pulley on my S60 :( Timing belt is due though, so I can tackle that job at the same time. I hope my cam seals are still OK though..
Very useful! I had a fuel filter start leaking when I changed it it was in horrible condition and oil started leaking from that side around the same time I'm assuming that this is what it is
Fun fact... on seals and rubber bits I soak or spray with transmission fluid... It's a better rubber conditioner and protector than engine oil... usually once a month I get under my car and engine bay/ trans area and spray trans oil over all exposed rubber bits... make sure you let trans oil air dry before driving around, usually about 3 plus hours
If you don't have the "VOLVO SPECIAL TOOLS" install the gasket in the block like the video shows and install pump without the front seal and the pump will go on easier, bolt down and install outter seal. I'm in the process of doing one now and will make a video showing that way. I made 3 special volvo tools for $15 or less.
It seems to me that your way is better. Pressing the seal in with your hand may seem like a real time saver while the oil pump is out, but fighting that step like in the video cancels out any advantage. I would just buy the tool, or make something.
My S60R had a crankshaft oil leak when I bought it. It cleared itself up after a few hundred km's. Turns out the car was sitting around for months without being driven before I bought it.
My LT35 SDI has the same engine as this (IIRC) and I will be doing this job very soon. Luckily for me, the engine in the van is longitudinal but I will have to remove the radiator and van front end...I will be looking to do the timing belt whilst in there...so maybe I'm doing the timing belt and the crank seal is secondary?? Thanks for sharing and your explanations are top notch....
Malcolm Young Thanks for the comment. Your engine isn't the same as the one in the video but I would imagine a similar seal arrangement will be present.
Good video. My 2002 S60 2.0t has just sprung an oil leak and it makes a kinda whirring sound when started from cold. Goes away after a while . Also just had a message on the dash appear saying no oil pressure. I'm guessing the two are related. And I'm guessing this is the problem. How long would this take a mechanic to do?
Did you install a new timing belt? I've read online that oil can contaminate the rubber belt and cause it to fail prematurely, but the independent Volvo shop I went to did not replace the timing belt when they changed the leaking front cam seal on my 2002 V70 XC.
Thanks for the video. Looks like I have the same issue with my 2005 D5. out of interest do you know what puller you used for the crank pulley? I need to order one!. Also what mileage did the car have when this problem started. I'm on 280k miles and starting to think I've been real lucky so far as most of the car is still original!
Great video, very informative! Do you know if the 2.4 liter gas engine is set up in the same or similar way? Could I use this video for a 2002 Volvo v70 xc? Thanks so much, forgive my ignorance!
Hi SiRobb, Great videos. I have an Australian 2008 Volvo XC90 D5 2.4 Diesel with around 170,000 Kms which we have owned since new. We currently have a heater that doesn’t work and with ambient temps getting down to -6, it’s not so good for the family. Wondering if you have any ideas re a likely cause. The techs have shown me the inside of the EGR ? Ducting and it has about a 4 or 5 mil black crud build up and a coked up internal valve of some sort which they think is asscociated with an internal oil leak. It doesn’t seem to use much oil but it only gets driven about 50 Kms per day. They have changed the thermostat, which while 10 years old and pretty filthy, showed no obvious issue. They have also replaced the water/ coolant pump with no improvement. Do you think they should take off the injector manifold and investigate for stuck valves etc. They have check the hoses in and out of the firewall for continuity and that seems fine with an external ( workshop ) supply but the engine itself doesn’t seem to be allowing hot coolant into the cabin area. We spent 2 years in a hot climate where the heater wasn’t used at all so wondering if something could be seized up somewhere. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated if you have encountered this sort of thing before or indeed if you have already covered the issue in a previous video. Thanks again. Cheers, Jeff oceanair69nz@gmail.com
Thanks for your video! I replaced the seals and gasket. When Idle no leaks, when accelerating, leaks a whole bunch (all 4-5 quarts in 30--40 miles) any ideas?
Hi Simon, your videos have been a great help for me. Thanks. We haven't heard from you in months, is the Volvo just running smooth with no trouble or have you sold it? Regards Ulrik (DK)
I have an oil leak just over the heat exchanger on which the oil filter is screwed on. All these expert mechanics tighten the filter so hard that you need dynamite to get it loose again. VW Multivan with the ACV engine.
I heard about a rubber core plag behind the engine that can pop up. You have an idea about at how many miles can this happen,and if in facelift cars equipped with old euro 3 d5 can this happen
I know it's been awhile, but could you add the part numbers or the seal kit number to the description? And thank you so much for the walk-though, tremendous help.
From a 2008 Volvo C30 2.4L, L5 B5244S4 Timing belt tensioner and idler 24Nm Oil pump housing bolts 10Nm Water pump 10Nm Crank Pulley 25NM + 60º Accessory belt tensioner 24Nm Engine mount to frame 90Nm Engine mount to block 133Nm VVT gear center bolt 120Nm VVT gear bolt plug 35Nm
Good vid SiRob. Can you estimate how much time it will take to do this? on a 07 2.5Turbo. I have a lift and all the tools except for a proper seal installer tool. The 2 hours seem a bit low. I work very carefully and clean up everything like new. My leak isn't nearly as severe as yours
It depends if you've had the belts off before. If it's your first time, allow up to 4 hours or so. It's not an especially difficult job nor is it a job you want to rush or have a strict time limit for.
I am looking to buy a 2006 c90 and the engine doesn't sound smooth it a small amount of water mixed with oil on the oil cap. But the coolant is clear what chance it's the head gasket? Also would you work my these c90?
Hi @SiRobb I have had a look at a V8 Xc90 with 130000 miles. There was a little oil smoke on the right side (looking from front at the engine), got less after 20 miles ride - nearly vanished but also slight whining noise and every few seconds like the engine aspirates. I made a video and could send. Would be great help to know if I should buy or not. All the best, Andre
I can't offer important advice based on remote evidence unfortunately. You have seen the car in person and still you're unsure so I would pay someone knowledgeable local to you to take a look.
Hi Simon! So here is my question: I have a S60 D5 2002 163HP version with 409.000km. It runs fine, but it has a small “issue” when i floor it its pulls hard but, no matters what gear what RPM, its feels like a littlebit “shaky” it isnt halfshafts i checked them. Morely like he doesnt get enough fuel, or some turbo lag. (Fuel filter was changed 100km ago with oil and other filters.) Injectors are nearly brand new. Can it be caused by dirty Turbo Pressure sensor, or a “dirty” fuel pressure regulator or valve? Sorry for my bad english. Thanks!
ok I have a 2001 V70XC cross country that is really pissing oil out, a stream running down right next to the crankshaft pulley on the front side(of vehicle) havent dug too deep as yet but was wondering if after removing the hamonic balancer and covers etc it is ok to start the engine and run it briefly to really pinpoint the leak, have plenty of oil in engine and thinking of at idle only
@@sirobb before you replied to the above and i'd read it I went ahead and did just that, made sure all bits were clear and kept hands well back, no probs at all, the oil stream that was emerging around the crank area was from the inlet cam seal which surprised me as the inlet drive pulley was dry on the inside, having a bugger of a time locating that lower timing mark though
If the crankshaft has a groove where the seal lip seats, you have too use a repair sleeve, or your wasting your time, it's going too leak, same go's for the camshafts
Are you referring to the repair sleeve sold by auto zone. I replaced the crank seal on a 05 s40 t5 and against better judgement I uses a make shift tool, it was a epic fail. Was wondering if I could use the auto zone tool and seat the current seal or start fresh with new seal & tool.
I'm wondering about this procedure, did it work and stop the oil leaks. My wife's 02 S60 seems to be doing on the same spot as yours and it looses medium amount of oil over a course of a week, engine still has oil but it leaves a mess and make my wife worry which in turn, she looks at me to fix.
It stopped the leak on the car in this video so it depends on whether the leak on your wife's car is caused by the same thing. Cleaning up the area first makes it much easier to spot where a leak is coming from.
@@sirobb thanks for the reply, I can try cleaning around the area but I think that would be an accomplishment in itself. Thank you for the feedback, I will try some things first then I will consider doing it to her car.. it leaks off the passenger front side as well that why I suspect it.
Ouch, that's an unusual failure. I hope the fix goes well. Also watch my short Seal Installation Tool Video here. th-cam.com/video/JG_kb10NFG0/w-d-xo.html
Hi . I have a the same problem with my Volvo v70xc. I change all the Peace's that you show in this vedio. But when I put it all back together again. There was still a mainer lick on the same side as we're the moyer lick was. What do you think is the problem from now? Should I change the hall metal piece ?? Or what is you suggest??
Si. I know its a old video hopefully you are still replying to comments. I have done this and can't get it to stop leaking around the blots/ torx screws that hold the pump in. How did you stop this? I am planning on doing it again and possibly put copper washers in behind the bolts? Many thanks Tom
The oil pump to oil pump housing gap tolerance is incredibly tight so if you didn't pull the pump out carefully and as straight as possible, you may have scored, scratched, gouged the area allowing oil past. The oil pump surround and housing area on the engine must be unmarked also. Before reassembly, everything must also be spotless as shown in the video so the oil pump reinstalls and sits correctly against the engine block before tightening the bolts. The bolts must be torqued correctly and definitely don't over tighten or add washers to increase the clamping force. Over tightened steel bolts in aluminium threads will strip the threads and potentially trash the whole engine. I'm also assuming that you have used genuine Volvo seals for the crankshaft, the pump circumference and the green paper seal behind the pump. The fit and quality is guaranteed. Make sure the crankshaft seal is seated perfectly and not damaged or lipping out anywhere. I've done a recent video for the recommended seal installation tool which ensures a correctly installed seal.
@@sirobb hi thank you very much for the reply. Yes it was genuine volvo parts and was disassembled and installed exactly as discribe but just can't get the oil leak from the bottom left bolt to stop. The crank oil seal and the outside edge are leak free just from the bottom left bolt. Looking at new bolts/ torx screws for when I do it again and the new bolts appear to have white sealant at the head end of the bolts so this may aid in stopping it. I will post another reply when iv had it off and got an other proper look. Had to order a new seal/ gasket set as I will need to take it apart to see what's happening. I will let you know what I find. Thank you again for the reply very much appreciated. Many thanks Tom
@@tsimpson864 No problem and good luck. I'm also wondering if the green seal may have been slightly misaligned and damaged a little by the bolt which should be able to pass through the aligned holes unhindered. It's certainly an unusual failure so I can't help thinking that it's something simple that may have been overlooked. If it's white on the new bolt threads, maybe it's some form of PTFE coating to aid sealing like on plumbing connections? I don't know.
Hi, another great video. Quick question, I intend to remove the oil pump, replace the gasket and seals. Could I not just install the new crankshaft seal once the pumps back in, as if I’d never removed it? Rather than having to manufacture the sleeve type affair to try to get it to slip over? Many thanks.
Unfortunately, regardless of which order you do it in, at some point, the new seal will have to pass over the step on the crankshaft and that will require either the correct tool or some form of improvisation.
Thanks for the speedy reply. Would a suitable long socket/tube with enough pressure applied be appropriate or would it need a more creative solution to press it in once the cooler had been reinstalled?
Anything of the same diameter to the wide part of the crankshaft is fine. Once past the ridge, the final pressing in of the seal by hand is straightforward.
@@Kingdmctzn The outer seal sits in a groove and the paper gasket is held flush against the engine block and prevented from moving with specific cut outs.
Hello ,i have DEM 0008 - out of calibration error on vida ,secondly is it possib,e to do injector coding via vida dice ? if yes can you please guide as i am not able to find the desired option
It varies between cars and model years so just follow the injector replacement instructions in Vida and it will tell you whether or not coding is possible or if you need a software download.
okay it is xc90 d5 euro4 it does says ecm needs software after injector replacment but i am not able to find it how to do ?or is it only possible via dealer or online vida subscription
As iv just purchased a D5 and a first time Volvo owner I’m So glad I found your channel! Could you help with a video on the swirl flap issue? The arm on mine is just hanging loose and I’m not sure what’s the best way to reconnect it. Also it’s quite oily around the rocker cover in that area Any help would be appreciated :-)
Great video! I've followed the steps outlined but am stuck. I removed the crankshaft seal but the oil pump will not come out. Ive tried prying with a screwdriver but it only rotates but will not come off Any ideas anyone? Thanks in advance!
It's a *very* close fit between the oil pump and housing and whilst you can lever the lugs a little bit, the pump must eventually come out straight. Levering on one point too much will skew and jam the pump against the housing. If all 4 bolts have been removed, there's nothing holding in the pump other than the close fit, the pump seal and maybe some grime.
@@sirobb Thanks so much. I'll try using vice grips on each side then and see if I can convince it to help me out. Fantastic video and support for Volvo owners!
@@sirobb Thank you for all your instructive video ! I think I have the same issue on my 2008 P3 (D5 auto) ; do you know if procedure and parts are the same ? Thx again !
Hello Simon, i just check my injectors and I am not happy with what i found. injector no. 2 give me just a little fuel injector no. 4 give me a lot of fuel ( in just one min like 200ml). can you make a video how to fix this problem, please? Thanks for your time!
Lucian Octavian Simion If it leaks more than 40ml in a minute, the only fix is to replace the injector. I've already done several injector videos showing how to do a change properly so look through my list of videos.
Hi Simon great video as always mate. I have a 2007 V70 was wanting to change gearbox oil but few people advised against it. I feel they're wrong, would you say my mileage is too high to change gearbox oil as I don't think it's been done before it's covered 128k 23k by me car seems to have had an easy life hasn't been driven or treated harshly. Cheers for any advice. Keep the vids coming pal👍🏻
im in the process of of replacing the water pump, tensioner, idler and all of the gaskets he just replaced. you have to take the timing belt off, or at least relieve the tension to get the crank sprocket/gear off. youll have to remove the serpentine belt because it rides in the crank pulley. since all of these parts have to be handled/removed/etc im replacing all of them at the same time, including the sepentine belt. Volvo didnt have to make a car so complicated to work on, but they did...NEVER BUY VOLVO!
I have never disassembled the pump so perhaps you've put it back together incorrectly. The oil system self purges when restarting the engine so there's no special procedure.
@@sirobb Today I checked and compared the installation of the gasket, with the one in your video and I realized that I had the gasket flipped. I'll install again tomorrow and I'll let you know what happens. I really appreciate your help.
![ความรักไม่ได้น่ากลัวขนาดนั้น (TRUST ME) - LYKN [ OFFICIAL MV ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/9np-lAtCRpQ/mqdefault.jpg)
![[안방1열 직캠4K] 베이비몬스터 치키타 'FOREVER' (BABYMONSTER CHIQUITA FanCam) @SBS Inkigayo 2404707](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Tn3bGHiBWkg/mqdefault.jpg)
Crank Seal Installation Tool Video th-cam.com/video/JG_kb10NFG0/w-d-xo.html
Hi. Thanks for the video. Do you have the parts number by any chance? I can't seem to find them anywhere
You stated in this video how easy it is to use the heel of your hand to install the seal in the oil pump off the car, but it was obvious later that you fought to get the seal onto the crank. The DIY person would have fits dealing with that. In the video you linked here you admitted that it is better to install the seal *after* the pump is installed, and having the right tool or something improvised is the way to go.
@@donmoore7785 What is your point?
Thanks again Sirobb!!!!! Thousands of people benefits from all of your videos on D5.
Please don't ever stop doing Volvo V70 D5 maintenance videos. I have just bough a V70 P2 Update D5 Auto with a Euro-3 engine (a unicorn, apparently) and your guidance in these videos is invaluable.
Your video is great. You have saved me thousands from a Volvo dealer for only $150 in OEM parts. Know my co-workers might stop calling me "slick"
Hello your Volvo videos are so helpful you go through the jobs at a steady pace. Thanks for taking the time to help us !!!
Neil Thornley You're welcome and thank you for the comment.
This fixed 90 percent of my leak, thank you! I later had to replace the vvt hubs and cam seals. Thank you sir ! Also folks clean that oil trap out and unclog your pcv valve !
Yep, all these seals end up failing due to a blocked PCV system. Upside is it's usually these seals that fail and not the rear main seal. I had to replace these and the cam seals, mine was mostly leaking from the cam seals but if you are going through the trouble to do them you might as well do these too while you are in there. Bought my 05 XC90 2.5T and the PCV system was so plugged I had to drop the oil pan to clean it all out.
Brilliant uploads thanks for taking the time to make them.
simon, i enjoy these videos. they are detailed and have visuals i can actually see. good job and thank you for taking the time to make them
Thanks for this video! Having this issue currently and have never encountered this problem until now. Couldn’t have done it without you! 🙏
Hello mate, thank you so so much for this video. I was panicking that the old car would need open heart surgery,and I would need open wallet surgery, but I'm relieved after watching this. Thank you again👍👍👍👍👍👍
Damn good.. Thanks for you're help SiRobb
Fair Play Si, appreciate the effort you go to, to make your vids. I never have the fortitude to start arsing around with camera shots of what I'm doing, nevermind breaking away from the task to explain. You're doing a fine job sir and I applaud your efforts [and the increased time it takes you to not only fix, but document]
+1 from me!
thank you very much! This video was of great importance and learning for me!
thanks for the video! I thought my crank seal was leaking but never had oil on my timing belt and after seeing this I'm almost positive its that oil pump o-ring. Thankfully this task doesn't seem horribly difficult
Thanks for uploading the best video ever i saw on youtube. I'm still driving my 1999 volvo V 70 It has 485 kms on it very reliable car.❤
I started with replacing my cvvt hubs firstly because the exhaust hub had excessive play and was leaking but it continued to leak from crank, Just did this oil pump and crank repair and it has cured all my oil leak ! Thanks
Good work.
love your vids -- and your vocal cadence!
You're the Man, Si. But I've found if you are DIY'er that it is easier just to buy the special tools. You are already saving so money by DIY'ing that you can spend some if it making your life easier. It also saves time on the removal/install. You can also then sell the part used if you don't need it again. Thanks for the great video!
Great video THANK YOU!
Thank for the video! It really helps me!
Brilliant video, thank you!
EXCELLENT video. Thanks very much
best video ever now I know war to do with my v50
Hi there... great tutorial ...thank you!
Thank you for the video I am doing this job now at the shop. Pretty simple and straight forward. Be aware though for anyone who is diying this job. Pay close attention when you're using the harmonic balancer puller as it can and will knock the crank out of time with the mark on the pump. I happened to notice this and had to backup the crank back in time before finishing pulling the balancer. I also went a step further and marked the crankshaft with a paint market in a straight line down so when reinstalling its lined up properly 👍.
No need to mark the crankshaft as the pulley is keyed and refits in one position only.
You just make sure the dedicated mark on the pulley lines up with the dedicated mark on the oil pump housing before fitting the belt and again after manually turning the engine.
@@sirobb lol thank you, that made me super nervous. Rather be safe then sorry. Yes I used a big pair of pliers to line the pump up with the balancer/timing gear, knocked it out a few notches so good thing I double and triple check stuff 👍
Nothing wrong with being cautious so well done.
Experience will teach you what is and isn't worth worrying about.
@@sirobb I'm a flat rate tech at a 4 man shop over here in Youngstown ohio. I'm very cautious about what I do especially with timing. I ruined a f150 90k 5.4 motor because of a cam kicking out on me. Ruined all pistons and valves and had to get a scrap yard motor. So I figured it would be informative for someone attempting this job with no shop experience as I can see someone knocking the crank out of time remove the balancer and then ruining the motor because they didn't realize the crank turned from the original timing mark. Pain in the ass removing that oil pump 😂. Thank you for the video appreciate it.
Thanks for the video, going to have to do this soon since an oil leak is developing behind the crank pulley on my S60 :( Timing belt is due though, so I can tackle that job at the same time. I hope my cam seals are still OK though..
Nice videos SiRobb
Did this today, Thanks!
nice review, thanks!
rob great video
that was excellent thank you
great video
Hi SiRobb. Haven't heard from you in ages. Hope you're OK and the Volvo is going strong.
good job!!
Very useful! I had a fuel filter start leaking when I changed it it was in horrible condition and oil started leaking from that side around the same time I'm assuming that this is what it is
Fun fact... on seals and rubber bits I soak or spray with transmission fluid... It's a better rubber conditioner and protector than engine oil... usually once a month I get under my car and engine bay/ trans area and spray trans oil over all exposed rubber bits... make sure you let trans oil air dry before driving around, usually about 3 plus hours
Very good work, tanks it's my next option because y car leaks and it's not the oil pan gasket!
Thanks for this video!!! I guess this cars toast the gaskets because of high temperatures. They run hotter because Turbochargers
If you don't have the "VOLVO SPECIAL TOOLS" install the gasket in the block like the video shows and install pump without the front seal and the pump will go on easier, bolt down and install outter seal. I'm in the process of doing one now and will make a video showing that way. I made 3 special volvo tools for $15 or less.
It seems to me that your way is better. Pressing the seal in with your hand may seem like a real time saver while the oil pump is out, but fighting that step like in the video cancels out any advantage. I would just buy the tool, or make something.
My S60R had a crankshaft oil leak when I bought it.
It cleared itself up after a few hundred km's.
Turns out the car was sitting around for months without being driven before I bought it.
Love the video, bud. Thank you for taking the time to make it. Dumb question: do I need to drain oil before taking the oil pump out?
My LT35 SDI has the same engine as this (IIRC) and I will be doing this job very soon. Luckily for me, the engine in the van is longitudinal but I will have to remove the radiator and van front end...I will be looking to do the timing belt whilst in there...so maybe I'm doing the timing belt and the crank seal is secondary?? Thanks for sharing and your explanations are top notch....
Malcolm Young Thanks for the comment.
Your engine isn't the same as the one in the video but I would imagine a similar seal arrangement will be present.
great video, where on the crankshaft are the marks to align the crankshaft for timing?
is it a common problem on P1 ?
I find some oil leaking near oil pump,there is a white cover above right front axle
Good video. My 2002 S60 2.0t has just sprung an oil leak and it makes a kinda whirring sound when started from cold. Goes away after a while . Also just had a message on the dash appear saying no oil pressure. I'm guessing the two are related. And I'm guessing this is the problem. How long would this take a mechanic to do?
Did you install a new timing belt? I've read online that oil can contaminate the rubber belt and cause it to fail prematurely, but the independent Volvo shop I went to did not replace the timing belt when they changed the leaking front cam seal on my 2002 V70 XC.
SiRobb, howCan i get the copper selant out after removing the injecthor
Thanks for the video. Looks like I have the same issue with my 2005 D5. out of interest do you know what puller you used for the crank pulley? I need to order one!. Also what mileage did the car have when this problem started. I'm on 280k miles and starting to think I've been real lucky so far as most of the car is still original!
Great video, very informative! Do you know if the 2.4 liter gas engine is set up in the same or similar way? Could I use this video for a 2002 Volvo v70 xc? Thanks so much, forgive my ignorance!
Hi SiRobb,
Great videos.
I have an Australian 2008 Volvo XC90 D5 2.4 Diesel with around 170,000 Kms which we have owned since new.
We currently have a heater that doesn’t work and with ambient temps getting down to -6, it’s not so good for the family.
Wondering if you have any ideas re a likely cause. The techs have shown me the inside of the EGR ? Ducting and it has about a 4 or 5 mil black crud build up and a coked up internal valve of some sort which they think is asscociated with an internal oil leak. It doesn’t seem to use much oil but it only gets driven about 50 Kms per day.
They have changed the thermostat, which while 10 years old and pretty filthy, showed no obvious issue.
They have also replaced the water/ coolant pump with no improvement.
Do you think they should take off the injector manifold and investigate for stuck valves etc.
They have check the hoses in and out of the firewall for continuity and that seems fine with an external ( workshop ) supply but the engine itself doesn’t seem to be allowing hot coolant into the cabin area.
We spent 2 years in a hot climate where the heater wasn’t used at all so wondering if something could be seized up somewhere.
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated if you have encountered this sort of thing before or indeed if you have already covered the issue in a previous video.
Thanks again.
Cheers,
Jeff
oceanair69nz@gmail.com
How did you prime the oil pump before starting ?
Quite a lot of oil there!
Thanks for your video! I replaced the seals and gasket. When Idle no leaks, when accelerating, leaks a whole bunch (all 4-5 quarts in 30--40 miles) any ideas?
Is the leak around the pump?
Hi Simon, your videos have been a great help for me. Thanks. We haven't heard from you in months, is the Volvo just running smooth with no trouble or have you sold it? Regards Ulrik (DK)
What tools were used to remove the castors and the toothed wheels? Anybody knows what it's called and where I can buy it?
Hi, maybe you know how to change Volvo S60 D5 2004 cv joint axle ?
Hi, I have the very same problem with my XC90 V8 2008, can you please help me with procedure and informations
How do you install the crank pulley
Hello, can you show me where is located the crank sensor? Thanks, Lucian !
I have an oil leak just over the heat exchanger on which the oil filter is screwed on. All these expert mechanics tighten the filter so hard that you need dynamite to get it loose again. VW Multivan with the ACV engine.
I heard about a rubber core plag behind the engine that can pop up. You have an idea about at how many miles can this happen,and if in facelift cars equipped with old euro 3 d5 can this happen
Core plug failures are more rare from 2005 onwards but you can never say never.
The crankshaft and cam seals are the same size ( & same part number) on these engines.
I know it's been awhile, but could you add the part numbers or the seal kit number to the description?
And thank you so much for the walk-though, tremendous help.
I won't be using Vida for a little while but as I film in HD, I'm pretty sure with some pausing, the part number labels can be read in the video.
From a 2008 Volvo C30 2.4L, L5 B5244S4
Timing belt tensioner and idler 24Nm
Oil pump housing bolts 10Nm
Water pump 10Nm
Crank Pulley 25NM + 60º
Accessory belt tensioner 24Nm
Engine mount to frame 90Nm
Engine mount to block 133Nm
VVT gear center bolt 120Nm
VVT gear bolt plug 35Nm
man, this job is essential a timing belt job... all for a little piece of rubber...
Good video, I have Volvo S80 D5 2004 with a bit oil leak from the top of the engine, what could be the reason?
Oil cap gasket most likely. Could also be from the PCV hose.
Simon, are you Still alive? Or is your car just dont need any repairs nowdays?
Good vid SiRob. Can you estimate how much time it will take to do this? on a 07 2.5Turbo. I have a lift and all the tools except for a proper seal installer tool. The 2 hours seem a bit low. I work very carefully and clean up everything like new. My leak isn't nearly as severe as yours
It depends if you've had the belts off before.
If it's your first time, allow up to 4 hours or so.
It's not an especially difficult job nor is it a job you want to rush or have a strict time limit for.
I am looking to buy a 2006 c90 and the engine doesn't sound smooth it a small amount of water mixed with oil on the oil cap. But the coolant is clear what chance it's the head gasket? Also would you work my these c90?
I would buy that even if it doesn't run as that is the only c90 ever in existence.
Hi @SiRobb I have had a look at a V8 Xc90 with 130000 miles. There was a little oil smoke on the right side (looking from front at the engine), got less after 20 miles ride - nearly vanished but also slight whining noise and every few seconds like the engine aspirates. I made a video and could send. Would be great help to know if I should buy or not. All the best, Andre
I can't offer important advice based on remote evidence unfortunately. You have seen the car in person and still you're unsure so I would pay someone knowledgeable local to you to take a look.
Hi Simon! So here is my question:
I have a S60 D5 2002 163HP version with 409.000km.
It runs fine, but it has a small “issue” when i floor it its pulls hard but, no matters what gear what RPM, its feels like a littlebit “shaky” it isnt halfshafts i checked them. Morely like he doesnt get enough fuel, or some turbo lag. (Fuel filter was changed 100km ago with oil and other filters.) Injectors are nearly brand new. Can it be caused by dirty Turbo Pressure sensor, or a “dirty” fuel pressure regulator or valve? Sorry for my bad english.
Thanks!
Hey. The 4 bolts on the oilpump, whats the torque there?
Regards
🤔
original belt guard?
Hi Simon. Do you solve tour leak problem after this job? If yes, how many miles you got from then? Thanks. P.S. good job, as always.
Yes the leak stopped and has lasted for about 15000 miles so far.
ok I have a 2001 V70XC cross country that is really pissing oil out, a stream running down right next to the crankshaft pulley on the front side(of vehicle) havent dug too deep as yet but was wondering if after removing the hamonic balancer and covers etc it is ok to start the engine and run it briefly to really pinpoint the leak, have plenty of oil in engine and thinking of at idle only
Starting the engine in that state would be a terrible idea.
@@sirobb before you replied to the above and i'd read it I went ahead and did just that, made sure all bits were clear and kept hands well back, no probs at all, the oil stream that was emerging around the crank area was from the inlet cam seal which surprised me as the inlet drive pulley was dry on the inside, having a bugger of a time locating that lower timing mark though
@@michaelna3119 If you see my D5 timing belt video, there's more info on the crank pulley timing mark.
If the crankshaft has a groove where the seal lip seats, you have too use a repair sleeve, or your wasting your time, it's going too leak, same go's for the camshafts
Are you referring to the repair sleeve sold by auto zone. I replaced the crank seal on a 05 s40 t5 and against better judgement I uses a make shift tool, it was a epic fail. Was wondering if I could use the auto zone tool and seat the current seal or start fresh with new seal & tool.
Does the oil need to be drained or is the pump higher than the sump level?
I was wondering this too. The pump is a decent amount above the sump, so it shouldn't need to be drained.
I'm wondering about this procedure, did it work and stop the oil leaks. My wife's 02 S60 seems to be doing on the same spot as yours and it looses medium amount of oil over a course of a week, engine still has oil but it leaves a mess and make my wife worry which in turn, she looks at me to fix.
It stopped the leak on the car in this video so it depends on whether the leak on your wife's car is caused by the same thing.
Cleaning up the area first makes it much easier to spot where a leak is coming from.
@@sirobb thanks for the reply, I can try cleaning around the area but I think that would be an accomplishment in itself. Thank you for the feedback, I will try some things first then I will consider doing it to her car.. it leaks off the passenger front side as well that why I suspect it.
What size of bit you need to remove the oil pump screw
thien lu it’s a 30mm nut
This might be kind of a stupid question but does the oil in the motor have to be drained before doing this?
Probably not if the car is tilted enough but I would drain it to be certain.
maybe that seal is best installed after the install of the pump? i might do this next oil change..thank for video
Before or after, it still needs to pass the lip and that's the trickiest part.
ABSOLUTELY..
Will do this job soon but with a new oil pump $ 😅
Ouch, that's an unusual failure. I hope the fix goes well. Also watch my short Seal Installation Tool Video here. th-cam.com/video/JG_kb10NFG0/w-d-xo.html
Hi .
I have a the same problem with my Volvo v70xc.
I change all the Peace's that you show in this vedio. But when I put it all back together again. There was still a mainer lick on the same side as we're the moyer lick was. What do you think is the problem from now? Should I change the hall metal piece ?? Or what is you suggest??
It sounds like you have damaged the new seal when installing it.
SiRobb Could he have not got the seal or part of the seal over the lip?
Si. I know its a old video hopefully you are still replying to comments. I have done this and can't get it to stop leaking around the blots/ torx screws that hold the pump in. How did you stop this? I am planning on doing it again and possibly put copper washers in behind the bolts?
Many thanks
Tom
The oil pump to oil pump housing gap tolerance is incredibly tight so if you didn't pull the pump out carefully and as straight as possible, you may have scored, scratched, gouged the area allowing oil past.
The oil pump surround and housing area on the engine must be unmarked also.
Before reassembly, everything must also be spotless as shown in the video so the oil pump reinstalls and sits correctly against the engine block before tightening the bolts.
The bolts must be torqued correctly and definitely don't over tighten or add washers to increase the clamping force.
Over tightened steel bolts in aluminium threads will strip the threads and potentially trash the whole engine.
I'm also assuming that you have used genuine Volvo seals for the crankshaft, the pump circumference and the green paper seal behind the pump.
The fit and quality is guaranteed.
Make sure the crankshaft seal is seated perfectly and not damaged or lipping out anywhere.
I've done a recent video for the recommended seal installation tool which ensures a correctly installed seal.
@@sirobb hi thank you very much for the reply. Yes it was genuine volvo parts and was disassembled and installed exactly as discribe but just can't get the oil leak from the bottom left bolt to stop. The crank oil seal and the outside edge are leak free just from the bottom left bolt. Looking at new bolts/ torx screws for when I do it again and the new bolts appear to have white sealant at the head end of the bolts so this may aid in stopping it. I will post another reply when iv had it off and got an other proper look. Had to order a new seal/ gasket set as I will need to take it apart to see what's happening. I will let you know what I find.
Thank you again for the reply very much appreciated.
Many thanks
Tom
@@tsimpson864 No problem and good luck. I'm also wondering if the green seal may have been slightly misaligned and damaged a little by the bolt which should be able to pass through the aligned holes unhindered.
It's certainly an unusual failure so I can't help thinking that it's something simple that may have been overlooked.
If it's white on the new bolt threads, maybe it's some form of PTFE coating to aid sealing like on plumbing connections? I don't know.
Hi, another great video. Quick question, I intend to remove the oil pump, replace the gasket and seals. Could I not just install the new crankshaft seal once the pumps back in, as if I’d never removed it? Rather than having to manufacture the sleeve type affair to try to get it to slip over?
Many thanks.
Unfortunately, regardless of which order you do it in, at some point, the new seal will have to pass over the step on the crankshaft and that will require either the correct tool or some form of improvisation.
Thanks for the speedy reply. Would a suitable long socket/tube with enough pressure applied be appropriate or would it need a more creative solution to press it in once the cooler had been reinstalled?
Anything of the same diameter to the wide part of the crankshaft is fine. Once past the ridge, the final pressing in of the seal by hand is straightforward.
Thanks so much mate
Does it need lubrication?
What holds the oil pump seal in place to allow oil pressure to build up ?
@@Kingdmctzn The outer seal sits in a groove and the paper gasket is held flush against the engine block and prevented from moving with specific cut outs.
Hello ,i have DEM 0008 - out of calibration error on vida ,secondly is it possib,e to do injector coding via vida dice ? if yes can you please guide as i am not able to find the desired option
It varies between cars and model years so just follow the injector replacement instructions in Vida and it will tell you whether or not coding is possible or if you need a software download.
okay it is xc90 d5 euro4 it does says ecm needs software after injector replacment but i am not able to find it how to do ?or is it only possible via dealer or online vida subscription
As iv just purchased a D5 and a first time Volvo owner I’m So glad I found your channel!
Could you help with a video on the swirl flap issue? The arm on mine is just hanging loose and I’m not sure what’s the best way to reconnect it.
Also it’s quite oily around the rocker cover in that area
Any help would be appreciated :-)
Sell your D5 and buy a petrol version...
You should've used some of that carbon cleaner to degrease that area right around the crank gear.
Great video! I've followed the steps outlined but am stuck. I removed the crankshaft seal but the oil pump will not come out. Ive tried prying with a screwdriver but it only rotates but will not come off Any ideas anyone?
Thanks in advance!
It's a *very* close fit between the oil pump and housing and whilst you can lever the lugs a little bit, the pump must eventually come out straight.
Levering on one point too much will skew and jam the pump against the housing.
If all 4 bolts have been removed, there's nothing holding in the pump other than the close fit, the pump seal and maybe some grime.
@@sirobb Thanks so much. I'll try using vice grips on each side then and see if I can convince it to help me out.
Fantastic video and support for Volvo owners!
Vice grips on one side and pliers on the other and with a couple of tugs, off she came!
Thanks again SiRob!
@@SuperMusicguy1000 Excellent and well done.
Did a clogged PCV Valve cause to much oil pressure in the crank case . Just wondering if that is why the crank seal went ? Thanks for posting.
Very informative,
What year model engine is this for ?
The procedure is the same for many engines and model years.
@@sirobb Thank you for all your instructive video ! I think I have the same issue on my 2008 P3 (D5 auto) ; do you know if procedure and parts are the same ?
Thx again !
@@sirobb ok but it would be helpful to know what model this is pls
Hello Simon, i just check my injectors and I am not happy with what i found.
injector no. 2 give me just a little fuel
injector no. 4 give me a lot of fuel ( in just one min like 200ml).
can you make a video how to fix this problem, please? Thanks for your time!
Lucian Octavian Simion If it leaks more than 40ml in a minute, the only fix is to replace the injector.
I've already done several injector videos showing how to do a change properly so look through my list of videos.
First thanks for the promt answer! I saw all videos from you... what do you think is the best to do? to buy a new one or recondioned one?
Stupid question, but do I need to drain the oil from the engine before this?
No not necessary but an oil change afterwards wouldn't hurt
@@jesusromero5217are you sure about that
Hi how you remove the 30mm flange nut from the crank?
daniel pineda With an impact wrench.
See my other videos.
SiRobb i use a 1500 ft lb max torque but still stuck
My bad Sorry bro you were just showing the old oil that you were going to clean . 👍
Hi Simon great video as always mate. I have a 2007 V70 was wanting to change gearbox oil but few people advised against it. I feel they're wrong, would you say my mileage is too high to change gearbox oil as I don't think it's been done before it's covered 128k 23k by me car seems to have had an easy life hasn't been driven or treated harshly. Cheers for any advice. Keep the vids coming pal👍🏻
John Mc Hi John. Manual or automatic?
SiRobb automatic mate
Automatic it is Simon
Do it, then do it again a week later.
Question from a dyier, did you remove the belt or does it come out without having to remove it?
im in the process of of replacing the water pump, tensioner, idler and all of the gaskets he just replaced. you have to take the timing belt off, or at least relieve the tension to get the crank sprocket/gear off. youll have to remove the serpentine belt because it rides in the crank pulley. since all of these parts have to be handled/removed/etc im replacing all of them at the same time, including the sepentine belt. Volvo didnt have to make a car so complicated to work on, but they did...NEVER BUY VOLVO!
Hi Hello, I disassembled my oil pump, but when I installed it, the oil did not rise. Can you teach me how to purge it?Please
I have never disassembled the pump so perhaps you've put it back together incorrectly.
The oil system self purges when restarting the engine so there's no special procedure.
@@sirobb
thank you. Today I disassembled the pump again and it is dry. there's no oil. where can I send you a picture?
You can upload a video to your TH-cam account and send the link.
I'm not sure how I can help you though.
@@sirobb
Today I checked and compared the installation of the gasket, with the one in your video and I realized that I had the gasket flipped. I'll install again tomorrow and I'll let you know what happens. I really appreciate your help.
I hope you get lucky.
I try to remove the (30 mm ) pulley nut but is giving me hard time because is very tie could you give me some advise please and thank you.
Get an impact gun, or a breaker bar, not much room for the bar, you could try and heat it up first and spray penetrant oil while it's hot
Any one have problems with revs hunting and sometimes cutting out with this leak
I have a leak from same area but it’s running rough when cars warmed up
@@jactemperley6422 My front crank seal just went and I did have revs hunting prior to the seal going but no cutting out.