True, but it's a very good starting point assuming one doesn't have a crazy crank length (like 180mm for a tiny dancer or 160mm for a basketball star).
The pedal back test is the best. For anyone who doesn't know, as long as you can BARELY pedal backwards with your heel on the pedal, then it's perfect. You move your foot back again and you can pedal perfectly. Put your hand on the wall to pedal back while sitting on the bike.
No one size fits all, folks! Simplest, sit on the bike with your riding shoes, then pedal (backward) with your HEELS. When your legs are straight at the 12 and 6 clock positions, you're in the ball park, good starting point!! This means, if you see bent legs at the knees, increase saddle height, and if legs are HYPER extended, decrease the height. Then fine tuning to your max comfort level, riding normally with the balls of your feet, increasing or decreasing slightly (3-5mm) where you feel most comfortable!!!
A lot of experts in the comments per usual. The method being used in the video is called The Hügi Method named after Wilfried Hügi. Which is slightly similar the Lemond method. This is a ball park measurement.
You're right, it's ball park measurement and a good way to measure by yourself too. I think the only criticism would be that the 'Correct' saddle height.
I tend to call this Hügi/Guimard after Hinault and Lemond's coach/DS. It's basically how I set my customs up though the builder suggested raised my saddle 3mm; that and KOPS is basically where I'm at, but I have pretty average proportions aside from being a bit of a twig if I'm in decent shape. I tend to go with the 109% rule, and that works with my 172.5mm cranks. Also old school h'bars with the tops about 6.5cm below the seat. Maybe this is bogus by modern fit methods, but it's comfy and quick for me.
@@philwyeth You can get just as much of a ballpark by raising the saddle until it's next to your hip bone. And you don't even need to mark up a wall or get a book covered in crotch smell.
good luck... Put the heals on the bottom of the pedal with the cycling shoes on... pedal backwards as you hold the wall. The leg should extended so that there is no reaching as you pedal. and should not be bent. The hip should be stable. This will get no in the ball park. it has been used for 50 years - at least.
There is no one way to calculate saddle height. But, this is good way to find a starting point. Be sure to adjust up or down to fine-tune for your particular setup.
Here's an easier method: Lean your bike against a wall and sit on it. Put your pedals at 6 o'clock and put your heal on said pedal If your legs are bent then increase the height if you can't reach it then decrease the height and if it's straight then you're good . After finding out the right height tighten the seat. And pedal with the balls of your feet. Enjoy your ride! :)
It's much simpler than that. Simply adjust it so that you have only a very slight bend in your knee when that foot is on the pedal and fully extended. That will be the correct height for the saddle.
There are plenty of factors to consider when doing saddle height and the list is long. It will all come down to repeated adjustments. Once set Record all measurements and from there every bike fitting is easier.
Nope… respectfully telling you that my crotch is at 81cm, the suggested height with 172.5 crank is about 71-72cm. But I have ISM seat, slightly longer lower part of leg, and longer torso (though still within average), and also the saddle is sinking 8mm under 80kgs weight. These calculations bring you in the ballpark, but you shall test and adjust until you feel comfy and power driven adequately to road. My seat is about 2-3cm higher than this suggested measurement, when I feel comfortable with proper reach to handlebar, balanced weight on ass and arms, and proper knee movement and degree when pedalling, without extra effort. Test ride until you feel and look OK on the bike.
@@Oldnose63 Sure it was measured, as suggested by torso and arm length and ISM specs in manual (slightly further back due to short nose of seat, compared to regular ones), and it fit almost, but I think I’m more relaxed if I sit closer, so moved it forward about halfway of normal seat and suggested length. It’s about 2-3cm shorter now and I’m cool with it. It’s good to know your bike, its elements and your physics, but try it at the end. Take a shorter or longer ride and take your hex set with you. Many times I stopped and tried minor adjustments.
@@WattWireNet if nothing else, this will get someone in the ballpark, though some minor adjustment may still be necessary to dial in the saddle height precisely.
If you don't want to draw on the wall, just use a bit of insulation tape. You can cut a piece of kep it in your hand and rather than draw on the wall just stick the tape on.
Adjust (up or) Down from there for Comfort, especially for or during LONGer Rides... *Exactness of the measurement is not nearly as important as the comfort and longevity of your Hips Knees Back Neck...*
Kind of. None of these "one size fits all" solutions work. However, what you said is the start of a fairly accurate way of setting saddle height. Start by pedaling on the heel, then ride for a bit at that height. Then raise your saddle 3-5mm until you start feeling like you're not in the same control of your pedal stroke. Then lower it back so you are.
Of course, the one bonus of this method is that you don't need to mess around as much with mounting/dismounting when you're riding a friend's spare bike. You get a rough saddle height and then hop on just the once and roll away
This method was first introduced by Greg Lemond but does not consider crank length variations. It’s a “close enough” measure, but not exact. Without the benefit of “bike fit” technology, a more accurate measure is to multiply leg inseam by 109%, which gets you closer to the correct mark, but may still need fine tuning.
But But... what i have noticed is. saddle height changes with shoes you choose to wear. (the non cycling shoes with flat pedals). Different shoes have different types of sole height and sole shape. Thats why even though i use a flat pedal, I have a dedicated runnning shoes for cycling and running. (puma hybrid feugo)
I was always told that you want your saddle high enough so, when your feet are at BDC, that your knees are barely bent. That's what's worked for me, so that's what I still do. Plus, it accounts for crank arm length.
I just always put it as low as possible bc your private parts as a man rotate down the higher your butt is. Like a dog at a 90 degree. The lower the seat the more your butt is making contact and the less your stuff parts are. Unless ofcourse they just invent a pelvis and hip bones saddle and just let the pelvic floor area float since youre already horizontal why not rest more of your stomach and chest and take the pressure off your privates? When you have to go up a hard hill youre never sitting down anyway so you dont need an actual "seat". Remove the problem completely and have more of a motorcycle gas tank rest or have an actual seated position. Just mechanically my opinion? Also long distance biking would benefit from having a longer frame and wheel base I general. You dont turn tight, you stay on the straight and narrow forever, but you could still turn the wheel completely. Like a longboard skateboard or a super car. Low...and long. Is for distance and speed. Thats how physics works lol. Short and boxy is for quickness and turning. Or climbing rough terrain. ...like a mountain bike Road bikes are too similar to mountain bikes.
It's worth getting this measurement right - a saddle which is too high can give you calf muscle strain. In severe cases calf muscle strain can be a problem for years. Older cyclists beware!
EXACTLY! I always set my saddles so that my knees are barely bent when my feet are at BDC in the pedal stroke. That's always worked well for me, so that's what I still do.
You don't need all these mathematics, just put your heel on the pedal and move it to the lowest point possible, your leg should be almost stretched all the way, if you're finding yourself leaning to get your heel on the pedal your saddle is too high, if you find your leg bent then your saddle is too low, change saddle height until you're at the point where your leg is almost totally stretched granted that your heel is on the pedal and pedal is at the lowest point possible. As simple as that.
the 4th method I have followed and each gives a different height. I prefer methods from the pedal. For instance if I have 175cm crank arms or I have 165cm crank arms, I suddenly have a 10cm differential, which is significant. Also the 30 degree knee bend method might be best for knee health as a starting point.
The number I got was 76,11 cm but my saddle is 80 cm. My knee would be over parallel if I adjust it. the knee should not be over parallel at the top of the stroke.
I can't afford a saddle. I've wrapped newspaper and sellotape around the seatpost for the time being. Seems to work ok for what it is. I'm guessing it's lighter than carbon fibre? Definitely cheaper. I could probably take one from a dumped bike chained up at the train station, maybe... I dont know how the tools work, though, and I haven't got any.
longer cranks makes your foot distance from saddle longer, shorter cranks make it shorter. So chaning from shorter to longer cranks you would have to lower the saddle for the difference of lenght between them. Here she only mesured from centre of support so diregarding addotional 1-2 cm based on the crank lenght. Also type of cleats used make difference, e.g. speed play make you "sit" few milimiters higher than standard ones.
I watched a few bike fit videos and found out how bad the set up I'd been using for a few decades was and tweeked a few things to get things right. Went for a few rides with it like that and managed to irritate my sit bones. Many months later, I can finally ride more than one day every couple of weeks. All my bikes have gone back to the original set up. If I did what she is suggesting i would wobble all over the seat or I'd have to change every crankset on the bikes I regularly ride.
@stephenbarradell4043 Ha! No. This method doesn't account if you use the same frame but use a pair of 170mm cranks or if you change to a pair of 175mm cranks.
Better to use a goniometer and look for a 27 degree angle at the knee. It will give you a pretty good fit, best of all it won't be to high. Best to get a good bike fitter.
Very useful video. Just one observation: isn't that the bottom bracket - hence, the 'base' of the crank arm - instead of the "middle of the crank arm"?
Would I be correct in saying this is a good method for getting a good starting point for your seat height from which you can fine tune/adjust to your liking?
Forget the calculation, just measure from the seat to the lowest point in your pedal's revolution and that's it, match it to your inseam and you're set!
Thanks, great tip. I was so far out with the calculation, nearly 2 inches too low. When I do your thing, I am spot on. So I will leave my saddle where it was. It was perfectly comfortable there anyway.
Thanks, I did the measurement and texted the results to my boyfriend. He wants to get me back into riding and is restoring my mountain bike after having it sit in the garage for 30 years. It’s been so long im basically going to have to relearn how to ride again
Or, you can sit on the bike and make it so one leg is up and the other leg is on your peddle at its lowest point, if your leg is straight that’s your proper height and if it’s bent then you need to adjust it to be higher. It won’t give you your seat hight measurement alexactly but it gets it where I needs
Yeah I always thought that you measured from the pedal at it lowest point to the top of the seat and then set it so it's an inch shorter than the inseem of your trousers so if you've got a 32 inch inside leg you set your seat it's 31 inches from the lowest point the pedal reaches! But I might be completely wrong as I usally ride a bmx and the seat on one of those is never much higher than 2 foot off the ground
No matter how we master the right bike seat sizing...we're still imprisoned and stuck in bondage of Egyptian double pyramids frame bike. UCI's mandate bikes leads you to permanent injuries: • Wrist CTS syndrome • Shoulder weight pain • Neck pain • Camel-like spinal cord • Lowerback pain • Cozzyx or seatbone pain • Testicular/Prostate or Vaginal issues
@@Angus.MacGyver I believed the closest answer to your ?'s is where your comfort calls. Since 1996 I commute using road Recumbents till present time am using Recumbents wherever I go. I now enjoy prescriptions-free, drugs-free and maintenance-free lifestyle. Am 65+9 months with no pain and injuries since I use Bents from 15-year Univega road bike. No testicular or prostate problems neither.
There is very simple another way of calcuating seat height by getting on a race bike and foot sole must completely touch the ground otherwise adjust or the chasi sizd must be smaller or bigger (48-63) chasi sizes
Sitting on the saddle with shoes on the hill resting on the peddle your leg should be straight this is the correct way for saddle height hope this helps
This might be a good place to start, but its not the "correct" way to measure. The crank length changes are essential to include. Furthermore, saddle height is more complicated than a static formula and requires the experience of a bike fitter to watch watch your body systems for "correct" height.
I tried from the dangle, the canyon page where you determine the frame size said a frame for me doesn’t exist 🤨 the closes was 2XS, but my height was above that… so i had to push up the book real hard in there, as if I am on the saddle. That gained a few cm and i could fit into the normal frame size. Haven’t ordered yet, but had the same dilemma so decided to share my fondling experience 😊
I wish I was a book 😔 however this is the fastest and best straight to the point video on how to adjust the height.. other videos dance around b4 they get to the point and make it an 8min video
this is not needed just adjust it to ur hip, then see if you can still touch the floor slightly with your toes if you cant or too much of your feet are touching the floor adjust to your preference
I drew on my mum's wall and she smacked me.
Same!!! Your mom smacks hard!!
😂 poor baby. Are you okay?😂😂😂😂
😅
😂😂😂
❤😂😅
I've tried it and the book measurement is about an inch higher when it's cold ?
This got me 🤣😂🤣😂
That is world problem
I c u😂
Only an inch?
Fantastic 😅
Depends... bikes have different constructions...... ...crank length will also matter..
True, but it's a very good starting point assuming one doesn't have a crazy crank length (like 180mm for a tiny dancer or 160mm for a basketball star).
The pedal back test is the best. For anyone who doesn't know, as long as you can BARELY pedal backwards with your heel on the pedal, then it's perfect. You move your foot back again and you can pedal perfectly. Put your hand on the wall to pedal back while sitting on the bike.
@@luigimitsu agreed
In shoes or without?
@@brewmaster97 With shoes.
Agreed
That’s how I learned it 50 years ago.
No one size fits all, folks!
Simplest, sit on the bike with your riding shoes, then pedal (backward) with your HEELS. When your legs are straight at the 12 and 6 clock positions, you're in the ball park, good starting point!! This means, if you see bent legs at the knees, increase saddle height, and if legs are HYPER extended, decrease the height.
Then fine tuning to your max comfort level, riding normally with the balls of your feet, increasing or decreasing slightly (3-5mm) where you feel most comfortable!!!
I don't ride with a saddle, keeps me honest.
Genius!
No saddle just the post😂
Dropped my food en route to my mouth 😂😂
love it. Be one with the bike!
A fan of the Mac McDonald method
Hint: tape a sheet of paper to the wall 1st so you don't mark up your wall.
Even better, just use a piece of tape AS the mark lol
You should really use six inch nails to secure the sheet to the wall if you want an accurate measurement 😊
Or just use a pencil. It erases.
Thank you. You actually made it sound so fun. God bless
A lot of experts in the comments per usual. The method being used in the video is called The Hügi Method named after Wilfried Hügi. Which is slightly similar the Lemond method. This is a ball park measurement.
You're right, it's ball park measurement and a good way to measure by yourself too. I think the only criticism would be that the 'Correct' saddle height.
I tend to call this Hügi/Guimard after Hinault and Lemond's coach/DS. It's basically how I set my customs up though the builder suggested raised my saddle 3mm; that and KOPS is basically where I'm at, but I have pretty average proportions aside from being a bit of a twig if I'm in decent shape. I tend to go with the 109% rule, and that works with my 172.5mm cranks. Also old school h'bars with the tops about 6.5cm below the seat. Maybe this is bogus by modern fit methods, but it's comfy and quick for me.
Sounds like your the expert
Woah, its the expert of all experts chiming in, but you're wrong.
Achtually, this is called the Hike a Book Against Your Gonads Method.
@@philwyeth You can get just as much of a ballpark by raising the saddle until it's next to your hip bone. And you don't even need to mark up a wall or get a book covered in crotch smell.
good luck...
Put the heals on the bottom of the pedal with the cycling shoes on... pedal backwards as you hold the wall. The leg should extended so that there is no reaching as you pedal. and should not be bent. The hip should be stable. This will get no in the ball park. it has been used for 50 years - at least.
There is no one way to calculate saddle height. But, this is good way to find a starting point. Be sure to adjust up or down to fine-tune for your particular setup.
Here's an easier method:
Lean your bike against a wall and sit on it.
Put your pedals at 6 o'clock and put your heal on said pedal If your legs are bent then increase the height if you can't reach it then decrease the height and if it's straight then you're good . After finding out the right height tighten the seat. And pedal with the balls of your feet. Enjoy your ride! :)
Legs should not be straight even at 6 o'clock position. You'll never see a pro with straight legs pedaling at 6 o'clock position.
Please spell pedal correctly.
How and why do so many people get this wrong?
@@basstheangelo yeah if you use your heal then its straight if you use the balls of your feet then it's not
@@petergibson7287 good now?
@@ALLMEM616 😂 golden
It's much simpler than that. Simply adjust it so that you have only a very slight bend in your knee when that foot is on the pedal and fully extended. That will be the correct height for the saddle.
You also have to factor in your crank length.
That's the multiply by 0.885 I guess
@@TheMuserhighly doubt...
There are plenty of factors to consider when doing saddle height and the list is long. It will all come down to repeated adjustments. Once set Record all measurements and from there every bike fitting is easier.
Nope… respectfully telling you that my
crotch is at 81cm, the suggested height with 172.5 crank is about 71-72cm. But I have ISM seat, slightly longer lower part of leg, and longer torso (though still within average), and also the saddle is sinking 8mm under 80kgs weight.
These calculations bring you in the ballpark, but you shall test and adjust until you feel comfy and power driven adequately to road. My seat is about 2-3cm higher than this suggested measurement, when I feel comfortable with proper reach to handlebar, balanced weight on ass and arms, and proper knee movement and degree when pedalling, without extra effort.
Test ride until you feel and look OK on the bike.
Also measure the distance saddle-steer.
Should be elbow length apart.
@@Oldnose63 Sure it was measured, as suggested by torso and arm
length and ISM specs in manual (slightly further back due to short nose of seat, compared to regular ones), and it fit almost, but I think I’m more relaxed if I sit closer, so moved it forward about halfway of normal seat and suggested length. It’s about 2-3cm shorter now and I’m cool with it.
It’s good to know your bike, its elements and your physics, but try it at the end. Take a shorter or longer ride and take your hex set with you. Many times I stopped and tried minor adjustments.
just use the heel method, no calculator needed, and the result would be very close to optimal saddle height.
What's a heel method?
using the heel to move the pedal to the lowest position. Then moving the saddle 5-10 mm lower.
I did the heel method first. Then did this method. They were within a few millimetres of each other 👌
@@黄辰旭 some say keep pedal at 5'O clock ( opposite pedal aligned with Seat post rod of frame)
@@CB19087 The measure method is not accurate depending on how youre press the book + feet positionning, heel method is better.
My body tells me when my seat height is correct
exactly 💯
Me too, but we have lots of experience. Something like this might be good for beginners.
my wrist started hurting a bit does this mean I need to mess w the seat more? D:
@@WattWireNet if nothing else, this will get someone in the ballpark, though some minor adjustment may still be necessary to dial in the saddle height precisely.
If you don't want to draw on the wall, just use a bit of insulation tape. You can cut a piece of kep it in your hand and rather than draw on the wall just stick the tape on.
Or, sit on the saddle and put your heel on the pedal, if your leg's straight, the saddle is the right height. If not, adjust the height so it is.
with or without the shoes on?
@@sudarshanrampersad6337 I'd do it with shoes as you cycle in these.
Adjust (up or) Down from there for Comfort, especially for or during LONGer Rides...
*Exactness of the measurement is not nearly as important as the comfort and longevity of your Hips Knees Back Neck...*
That is absolutely correct!
Kind of. None of these "one size fits all" solutions work. However, what you said is the start of a fairly accurate way of setting saddle height.
Start by pedaling on the heel, then ride for a bit at that height. Then raise your saddle 3-5mm until you start feeling like you're not in the same control of your pedal stroke. Then lower it back so you are.
Have you calculated crank length? No. How about heel drop?
I was wondering why my copy of the race of truth was stinking of fish.
Of course, the one bonus of this method is that you don't need to mess around as much with mounting/dismounting when you're riding a friend's spare bike. You get a rough saddle height and then hop on just the once and roll away
I still say that's only a close guestimation. Start with that measurement, ride and fine tune from there. 😊
Can you use the same formula for mountain bikes?
This method was first introduced by Greg Lemond but does not consider crank length variations. It’s a “close enough” measure, but not exact. Without the benefit of “bike fit” technology, a more accurate measure is to multiply leg inseam by 109%, which gets you closer to the correct mark, but may still need fine tuning.
But But... what i have noticed is. saddle height changes with shoes you choose to wear. (the non cycling shoes with flat pedals). Different shoes have different types of sole height and sole shape. Thats why even though i use a flat pedal, I have a dedicated runnning shoes for cycling and running. (puma hybrid feugo)
Thank you for this
Dope. I've been wondering about this
Thanks so much :)
(also for the creative 'Do It Solo' solution)
I was always told that you want your saddle high enough so, when your feet are at BDC, that your knees are barely bent. That's what's worked for me, so that's what I still do. Plus, it accounts for crank arm length.
I just always put it as low as possible bc your private parts as a man rotate down the higher your butt is. Like a dog at a 90 degree. The lower the seat the more your butt is making contact and the less your stuff parts are.
Unless ofcourse they just invent a pelvis and hip bones saddle and just let the pelvic floor area float since youre already horizontal why not rest more of your stomach and chest and take the pressure off your privates? When you have to go up a hard hill youre never sitting down anyway so you dont need an actual "seat".
Remove the problem completely and have more of a motorcycle gas tank rest or have an actual seated position.
Just mechanically my opinion?
Also long distance biking would benefit from having a longer frame and wheel base I general. You dont turn tight, you stay on the straight and narrow forever, but you could still turn the wheel completely. Like a longboard skateboard or a super car.
Low...and long. Is for distance and speed. Thats how physics works lol.
Short and boxy is for quickness and turning. Or climbing rough terrain.
...like a mountain bike
Road bikes are too similar to mountain bikes.
It's worth getting this measurement right - a saddle which is too high can give you calf muscle strain. In severe cases calf muscle strain can be a problem for years. Older cyclists beware!
Genius 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 thank you
IMHO she means the center of the crank spindle, not the middle of the crank arm - at least, that's where she starts measuring down below 🤷♀️
This might get a ballpark, but wouldn't account for crank length, ankle flexion, or saddle setback.
EXACTLY! I always set my saddles so that my knees are barely bent when my feet are at BDC in the pedal stroke. That's always worked well for me, so that's what I still do.
That gives you a starting point for finding your optimal saddle hight - but it DOESN’T give you „the correct saddle height“
You don't need all these mathematics, just put your heel on the pedal and move it to the lowest point possible, your leg should be almost stretched all the way, if you're finding yourself leaning to get your heel on the pedal your saddle is too high, if you find your leg bent then your saddle is too low, change saddle height until you're at the point where your leg is almost totally stretched granted that your heel is on the pedal and pedal is at the lowest point possible. As simple as that.
@@houssambouhou7846 with bike shoes on?
This video was great. I bought an e bike a few months ago. Thank you.
the 4th method I have followed and each gives a different height. I prefer methods from the pedal. For instance if I have 175cm crank arms or I have 165cm crank arms, I suddenly have a 10cm differential, which is significant. Also the 30 degree knee bend method might be best for knee health as a starting point.
Great method 😊
The number I got was 76,11 cm but my saddle is 80 cm. My knee would be over parallel if I adjust it. the knee should not be over parallel at the top of the stroke.
Calculate corect height . Put your heel on lowest positioned pedal ,adjust seat , have a nice ride.
Is the distance between the two heels against the wall important? Or should the distance between the pedals be the same?
Just slightly apart from touching each other will do.
Thanks!!
I can't afford a saddle. I've wrapped newspaper and sellotape around the seatpost for the time being. Seems to work ok for what it is. I'm guessing it's lighter than carbon fibre? Definitely cheaper. I could probably take one from a dumped bike chained up at the train station, maybe... I dont know how the tools work, though, and I haven't got any.
Is this only works on inches or centimeters as well?
Looks like she measured in centimetres or millimetres and in inches. lol .
@@zeppelin2900 cool thanks
@@GNMi79 ok thanku
i'm 6' 00'' in height and have a 32" inseam, what size bike frame should i get?
But what effect does different length cranks have?
Please advise.
longer cranks makes your foot distance from saddle longer, shorter cranks make it shorter. So chaning from shorter to longer cranks you would have to lower the saddle for the difference of lenght between them. Here she only mesured from centre of support so diregarding addotional 1-2 cm based on the crank lenght. Also type of cleats used make difference, e.g. speed play make you "sit" few milimiters higher than standard ones.
The middle of a circle is always the middleif you increase the size of a circle that does not change. LOL!
Sweet! This is money saving tips 😅
what if the pedal arm is longer or shorter.. why not get a measurement from sadle to the actual pedal in use?
From the top of the pedal to the top of the seat is the only accurate way of measuring! 👍
That book had more action than me in a year lol
Will it work for children
Do I take my sack into consideration or all the way up to my taiint.
I watched a few bike fit videos and found out how bad the set up I'd been using for a few decades was and tweeked a few things to get things right. Went for a few rides with it like that and managed to irritate my sit bones. Many months later, I can finally ride more than one day every couple of weeks. All my bikes have gone back to the original set up. If I did what she is suggesting i would wobble all over the seat or I'd have to change every crankset on the bikes I regularly ride.
Beautifully done!
This is a model of "How to make a short instructional film."
Thank you.
Is this inches or centimeters?
So same saddle height regardless of crank arm length?
Just wow..😊..thanks for
sharing...very helpful info
What if you have different crank arm lengths?
Like different on each side?
@stephenbarradell4043 Ha! No. This method doesn't account if you use the same frame but use a pair of 170mm cranks or if you change to a pair of 175mm cranks.
@@paulmanias8269sure it does, is for standard crack length whatever that is. If yours is different plus or minus cms
Next lesson - How to remove unsightly pencil lines off walls.
😂😅❤
you can use rubber
@@marcusmartin5758 Not only applicable in sex ed
Does this process apply to mountain bikes?
This vid doesn't explain where or how the 0.885 multiplier was obtained. Why that figure, not 0.886 or 0.884?
Just ride the bike, if wrong height then adjust, repeat, else stop.
Boom
Wrote that comment like code 😂
@@michaelslifecycle if else statement. works everytime.
How do you know it’s “wrong”. Define wrong. Fundamentally flawed statement. Boom
@@marcdaniels9079 i
If it feels wrong, adjust til it feels right. Baboom.
Interesting - tested this and it matches my intuitive saddle height within half a centimeter
Well done great advice. 🎯 😃 🇬🇧
Better to use a goniometer and look for a 27 degree angle at the knee. It will give you a pretty good fit, best of all it won't be to high. Best to get a good bike fitter.
what angle should the ankle and hip be at when we look for the 27deg knee angle?
Very useful video. Just one observation: isn't that the bottom bracket - hence, the 'base' of the crank arm - instead of the "middle of the crank arm"?
Would I be correct in saying this is a good method for getting a good starting point for your seat height from which you can fine tune/adjust to your liking?
Forget the calculation, just measure from the seat to the lowest point in your pedal's revolution and that's it, match it to your inseam and you're set!
Thanks, great tip. I was so far out with the calculation, nearly 2 inches too low. When I do your thing, I am spot on. So I will leave my saddle where it was. It was perfectly comfortable there anyway.
I’m a painter, so when you draw on the wall, I nearly fall off my chair.
Thanks, I did the measurement and texted the results to my boyfriend. He wants to get me back into riding and is restoring my mountain bike after having it sit in the garage for 30 years. It’s been so long im basically going to have to relearn how to ride again
Or, you can sit on the bike and make it so one leg is up and the other leg is on your peddle at its lowest point, if your leg is straight that’s your proper height and if it’s bent then you need to adjust it to be higher. It won’t give you your seat hight measurement alexactly but it gets it where I needs
Does it have to be cycling socks? Also, I don't have any cycling books, can I use a triathlon book instead?
Of course not, don't be silly, use a Tri book and get banished from the road brotherhood forever.
@@tonyg3091 I'm sorry 😰
Yeah I always thought that you measured from the pedal at it lowest point to the top of the seat and then set it so it's an inch shorter than the inseem of your trousers so if you've got a 32 inch inside leg you set your seat it's 31 inches from the lowest point the pedal reaches! But I might be completely wrong as I usally ride a bmx and the seat on one of those is never much higher than 2 foot off the ground
I was distracted by the book
Yeah the multiplier difference for the different kinds of bikes
Also for mtb or just road bike?
No matter how we master the right bike seat sizing...we're still imprisoned and stuck in bondage of Egyptian double pyramids frame bike.
UCI's mandate bikes leads you to permanent injuries:
• Wrist CTS syndrome
• Shoulder weight pain
• Neck pain
• Camel-like spinal cord
• Lowerback pain
• Cozzyx or seatbone pain
• Testicular/Prostate or Vaginal issues
What bike frame geometry is more ergonomic and strain-free?
@@Angus.MacGyver
I believed the closest answer to your ?'s is where your comfort calls.
Since 1996 I commute using road Recumbents till present time am using Recumbents wherever I go.
I now enjoy prescriptions-free, drugs-free and maintenance-free lifestyle.
Am 65+9 months with no pain and injuries since I use Bents from 15-year Univega road bike.
No testicular or prostate problems neither.
There is very simple another way of calcuating seat height by getting on a race bike and foot sole must completely touch the ground otherwise adjust or the chasi sizd must be smaller or bigger (48-63) chasi sizes
Sitting on the saddle with shoes on the hill resting on the peddle your leg should be straight this is the correct way for saddle height hope this helps
You need to counter in the crank lengths to do this measurement more accurately.
What about the different crank arm lengths
This might be a good place to start, but its not the "correct" way to measure. The crank length changes are essential to include. Furthermore, saddle height is more complicated than a static formula and requires the experience of a bike fitter to watch watch your body systems for "correct" height.
What is the correct way? This is the only way I know
This is brilliant thank you
It must be a cycling book? Or can I use q different book
Thanks! Will do it and see
How about simply adjusting until you feel comfortable?
I tried this but something is off. I have been riding at 78cm when this calculation has me at 73cm. I feel that is way too low.
Nice bike!
So being a man, do I have to push em to one side or do I go from the dangle? 😂
I tried from the dangle, the canyon page where you determine the frame size said a frame for me doesn’t exist 🤨 the closes was 2XS, but my height was above that… so i had to push up the book real hard in there, as if I am on the saddle. That gained a few cm and i could fit into the normal frame size. Haven’t ordered yet, but had the same dilemma so decided to share my fondling experience 😊
OK, I did the measurement and according to this, I'm about 1.25 inches too high with my current set up.
She's using millimeters, not inches
Must of been a cold day
@@johnrobertd748 That doesn't really matter. If you're using inches or millimeters the process is the same.
What about the crank length???
I use the inseam x 109
no allowance for crank length
Hold on what about crank length?
I wish I was a book 😔 however this is the fastest and best straight to the point video on how to adjust the height.. other videos dance around b4 they get to the point and make it an 8min video
What about the crank size? If you are on 165 instead of 172.5 is not the same
and the horizontal measurement?
So well explained,super.
this is not needed just adjust it to ur hip, then see if you can still touch the floor slightly with your toes if you cant or too much of your feet are touching the floor adjust to your preference
Thanks may u live longer I bought gear cycle