why are you aiming up to hit lower.I have a c4 hurukay 105.one feather up.I aim where I would like to hit and always 4 cm goes up.Is it possible to get without correcting a shot a good result
Yes you should try cutting the line with a knife and make sure you know how to cut it. It is a little different to cut than say mono, but the 1.2mm cuts quite easily. The spikes are not a problem at all as the nylon coating totally encases the cable. If it wears out you should replace it just like you should replace any worn out line. You are only as strong as your weakest link.
Hello and thanks for your work, I recently purchased a pathos laser roller carbon 100. im a noob to the sport however i wanted to invest in what i thought was a good gun, while buying it i had shop attendant try sway me to get a rob Allen! from what ive read online these pathos guns are better made and the rob allens have plastic triggers. This pathos feels and Looks great ,have not used it yet… I just wanted to ask YOU is it a good gun, whats the ideal setup shaft rubber for best accuracy no drop….. and is it necessary to upgrade the d,angelo2 machanism to the emesub upgrade????? thank you …… nice pool!
it's not a plastic trigger on the rob allen guns. They use a nylon and glass composite. They use that because there is less wear and friction within the mechanism. Rob allen is a very durable brand. I have a rob allen sparid that is 15 years old and still works perfectly.
Would you recommend the 1.2mm coated cable for a smaller setup? Let's say a 100cm pathos set up with 14.5mm small id bands @360% and a 7.5x130cm shaft?
Theoretically interesting, like many things tested by Majd. Only thing: below 1,6mm, stainless cable is useless: it breaks too easily under shock or stress. If your gun is too small to use 1,6mm cable, stay with dyneema or mono.
Actually 1.6mm is very strong and won't break. The 1.2mm cable can break if you get a kink or if it snags on something on your gun when you shoot. The only problem with cable is that eventually it kinks and thus needs replacement often. But in testing it keeps shaft velocities very high. Dyneema needs to be handled carefully as it dramatically increases the problem of line tangles.
exactly my point.. UNDER 1,6mm = fragile and unreliable.. 1,6mm is good for extreme use, that's what I use for YFT. I think spectra or dyneema is prone to line tangles when the rope has exposed braids, i.e. when there is no sheath covering the core of fibers. The sheath makes the line more rigid and avoid to a good extent the issues of tangle.
I've left another comment on that matter in another video of yours, but as I didn't get any reply, i will ask again here. So, according to your experience, changing the old C4 trigger with the new one, is any modification needed in the gun. Can I remove the old one and put the new one or does it need work on the frame of the gun? Thank you
It is almost a perfect switch out with the new C4 trigger with line release inside the mech. Maybe a very tiny fraction of a mm of sanding is required on a small area to allow the side line release to not touch. After sanding just seal the tiny area with a smudge of 5 minute epoxy with a Nitrile gloved finger.
Really great vids, thats probably an understatement. Im learning alot so thanks!! This is probably a silly idea but I was thinking it would be great to build a rubber arm with a human like weight that could clamp the gun in a human like hand that could approximate or perfectly mimic a diver giving similar recoil properties. Attach a laser sight to the gun so you could be sure its pointing to the same dot each time you loaded the gun. I always wondered if that something manufacturers do?
The only big issue I see with cables is tangles. Mono, you can cut with you knife. If, for some reason you get tangled in ss cable, you're essentially fucked
Hey Majd, for my new Denton 120,am pondering what shooting line to rig with. Don't need to worry about sharp structure cutting line... (wahoo is biggest target) what line would your recommend? Mono (what #) or Head ProGel you mentioned (size spec? crimp size?) I've only ever used mono before. Thanks as always for your informative and rigorous testing.
I would go with 250lb or 300lb mono ... that is what I use for open water fish where there are no structures or reefs The Head ProGel is good for smaller fish around reefs where you are using a light shaft.
Great Vid Majdq8! I have been using 250lb mono for some time on the abellan denton and it has always worked great accept the wear and tear of the loop of mono that connects to the base of the spear. Ive dremeled the spear hole smooth but still getting the wear and tear which eventually brakes under load with big fish if its less than 6 months old. You ever get any issues similar to this with the hunt spears?
Yes this is normal and you should always replace your shooting line if you see wear or nicks ... this is especially true with mono. Your line is only as strong as your weakest link. I use a PVC or SS sleeve on the mono loop where I connect to the shark fin. I know this is not possible as shafts makers sometimes make the hole too small, but you can try and drill out the hole to allow for that.
If you don't hunt structures or big fish around sharp corals, mono works great. Actually better than mono is tennis racket string, like the Head Fibergel ... it acts exactly like mono, but it has extra fibers that have much higher abrasion resistance. It won't hold up against very large fish, but for mid sized fish and smaller fish around the reef ... it is perfect.
Can't stop watching your videos. Very nice you share all this knowledge.
Another great test and review. Thank you for sharing.
How thick is the block of styrofoam (not the 15cm one)?
excellent and very prifessional review!
why are you aiming up to hit lower.I have a c4 hurukay 105.one feather up.I aim where I would like to hit and always 4 cm goes up.Is it possible to get without correcting a shot a good result
What gun are you using for solid test, please?
How easy is the cable to cut with a dive knife in an emergency? That would be my only concern. Or when the coating wears off into little spikes.
Yes you should try cutting the line with a knife and make sure you know how to cut it. It is a little different to cut than say mono, but the 1.2mm cuts quite easily. The spikes are not a problem at all as the nylon coating totally encases the cable. If it wears out you should replace it just like you should replace any worn out line. You are only as strong as your weakest link.
Hello and thanks for your work, I recently purchased a pathos laser roller carbon 100. im a noob to the sport however i wanted to invest in what i thought was a good gun, while buying it i had shop attendant try sway me to get a rob Allen! from what ive read online these pathos guns are better made and the rob allens have plastic triggers. This pathos feels and
Looks great ,have not used it yet… I just wanted to ask YOU is it a good gun, whats the ideal setup shaft rubber for best accuracy no drop….. and is it necessary to upgrade the d,angelo2 machanism to the emesub upgrade????? thank you …… nice pool!
it's not a plastic trigger on the rob allen guns. They use a nylon and glass composite. They use that because there is less wear and friction within the mechanism. Rob allen is a very durable brand. I have a rob allen sparid that is 15 years old and still works perfectly.
Would you recommend the 1.2mm coated cable for a smaller setup? Let's say a 100cm pathos set up with 14.5mm small id bands @360% and a 7.5x130cm shaft?
Hmmm ... good question. I really don't know how a 7mm will react with the 1.2 cable ... need to test it out.
Theoretically interesting, like many things tested by Majd. Only thing: below 1,6mm, stainless cable is useless: it breaks too easily under shock or stress. If your gun is too small to use 1,6mm cable, stay with dyneema or mono.
Actually 1.6mm is very strong and won't break. The 1.2mm cable can break if you get a kink or if it snags on something on your gun when you shoot. The only problem with cable is that eventually it kinks and thus needs replacement often. But in testing it keeps shaft velocities very high. Dyneema needs to be handled carefully as it dramatically increases the problem of line tangles.
exactly my point.. UNDER 1,6mm = fragile and unreliable.. 1,6mm is good for extreme use, that's what I use for YFT. I think spectra or dyneema is prone to line tangles when the rope has exposed braids, i.e. when there is no sheath covering the core of fibers. The sheath makes the line more rigid and avoid to a good extent the issues of tangle.
I've left another comment on that matter in another video of yours, but as I didn't get any reply, i will ask again here.
So, according to your experience, changing the old C4 trigger with the new one, is any modification needed in the gun. Can I remove the old one and put the new one or does it need work on the frame of the gun? Thank you
It is almost a perfect switch out with the new C4 trigger with line release inside the mech. Maybe a very tiny fraction of a mm of sanding is required on a small area to allow the side line release to not touch. After sanding just seal the tiny area with a smudge of 5 minute epoxy with a Nitrile gloved finger.
thanks for sharing Majd! what diameter is the 250lb mono tested? around 1.5mm ?
I think it was around 1.6mm
Really great vids, thats probably an understatement. Im learning alot so thanks!! This is probably a silly idea but I was thinking it would be great to build a rubber arm with a human like weight that could clamp the gun in a human like hand that could approximate or perfectly mimic a diver giving similar recoil properties. Attach a laser sight to the gun so you could be sure its pointing to the same dot each time you loaded the gun. I always wondered if that something manufacturers do?
The only big issue I see with cables is tangles. Mono, you can cut with you knife. If, for some reason you get tangled in ss cable, you're essentially fucked
Hey Majd, for my new Denton 120,am pondering what shooting line to rig with. Don't need to worry about sharp structure cutting line... (wahoo is biggest target) what line would your recommend? Mono (what #) or Head ProGel you mentioned (size spec? crimp size?) I've only ever used mono before. Thanks as always for your informative and rigorous testing.
I would go with 250lb or 300lb mono ... that is what I use for open water fish where there are no structures or reefs The Head ProGel is good for smaller fish around reefs where you are using a light shaft.
Great Vid Majdq8! I have been using 250lb mono for some time on the abellan denton and it has always worked great accept the wear and tear of the loop of mono that connects to the base of the spear. Ive dremeled the spear hole smooth but still getting the wear and tear which eventually brakes under load with big fish if its less than 6 months old. You ever get any issues similar to this with the hunt spears?
Yes this is normal and you should always replace your shooting line if you see wear or nicks ... this is especially true with mono. Your line is only as strong as your weakest link. I use a PVC or SS sleeve on the mono loop where I connect to the shark fin. I know this is not possible as shafts makers sometimes make the hole too small, but you can try and drill out the hole to allow for that.
sleeve is a good idea. cheers for the advice!
I think the best option is the mono line, I'll stick to that
If you don't hunt structures or big fish around sharp corals, mono works great. Actually better than mono is tennis racket string, like the Head Fibergel ... it acts exactly like mono, but it has extra fibers that have much higher abrasion resistance. It won't hold up against very large fish, but for mid sized fish and smaller fish around the reef ... it is perfect.
not sure how this could ever be accurate your hand is not still...