Fix Old Cameras: AE-1 Top Cover Removal / Battery Door Replacement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 พ.ย. 2013
- Broken battery door on Canon AE-1 with top cover removal. This tutorial video shows how to remove the top cover so that a damaged battery door can be replaced on an AE-1.
classic camera repair - www.phototronic.biz
A few tools and books - www.amazon.com/shop/fixoldcam...
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Just wanted to say thank you for these videos. I've probably fixed over 100 AE-1s and AE-1Ps that would have been destined for the scrap heap using your videos.
That is amazing! Good to hear of such things and thank you for your comments.
This video was SO HELPFUL! When I sent my camera off for new foams and a battery door replacement it came back with a crooked ASA wheel. I didn't feel comfortable sending it back, so I decided to fix it myself. You video was so clear and easy to follow, based on the instructions I was able to troubleshoot and fix everything. Thank you again!
THIS IS THE NICEST TUTORIALS I HAVE EVER WATCHED. Instructions step by step with tips along the way. This video has great sound and photography. changing the battery door was made easy . Thank you so much ill never shy away from this repair again.
Thank you for your kind words and interest in FOC.
Thanks again. The clarity and calm of your videos is second to none. Used this to clean the back of the viewfinder lens which was covered in fungus for some reason. Now a beautiful clear viewfinder, thanks to your assistance.
Excellent to hear of your successful repair. Thank you for your kind comments and interest in Fix Old Cameras.
Thank You a lot for this great video! This helped me get my AE1 nearly fully working again!
Glad it helped.
Bookmarked for later use. I've got an old AT-1 that I bought new way way back when that has a broken door that is driving me craz. Thank You for sharing this instruction.
Keep'em going. Thank you for your interest in FOC.
hey, thanks for this video and your help with the canon F-1 slow speed governor issue you helped me with. Can i ask you if you ever got a Canon AE-1 with stuck light meter issue? I bought one in defective condition, i put the battery on it and its permanently detecting light (flashing M LED if its in manual) , like it's stuck on the top button or the side one, i checked this buttons removing the topcover, and there's no problem. Have you ever come across this issue?, thanks for your help :D
Thank you for sharing this video instruction. I fixed my camera with a replacement door. The door made with metal inside, not the plastic one in AE-1. I’m not sure where this door from. Did Canon try to solve this defect with better material in the later model?
As instructive and didactic as it gets. Thanks a lot for one more great video!
Thank you for your interest in FOC,
I just picked up he really nice 1980 Olympic Edition with a 50mm 1.4 lens. The only problem is that the battery door is broken. I just need to track down one of the older metalic doors and now I know how to replace it like a pro. Excellent job as always Fix Old Cameras. You have by far the best series of instructional camera repair videos that I have ever seen. Please keep them coming!
Excellent find. Thank you for your comments and interest in Fix Old Cameras. If you are unable to locate an original replacement battery door the aftermarket ones that are available are a suitable substitute.
astore.amazon.com/fixoldcam-20/detail/B00MWQKAVE
Thank you! Yes I am already on the hunt for a new battery door. I'm trying to find one of the older metallic versions if possible as I'm sure they hold up much better. On a separate note, do you take requests for specific repairs on specific cameras? I am a member of a very active vintage camera Facebook group, and I have posted many of your videos four other members to use and enjoy. These are people that really know their vintage cameras. The feedback has been overwhelmingly positive.
The interest of your vintage camera facebook group in Fix Old Cameras videos is greatly appreciated. Comments and suggestion for videos are always welcome. Just be mindful after a particular camera and repair has been suggested for a Fix Old Camera video a long length of time could pass before the video featuring your suggestion would actually come to fruition.
Thank you for the video! I cannot seem to move the battery door pin (I'm using a lot of force and needle-nose pliers). Do you have any recommendations on how to move it? Thanks again.
What kind of circlip plier is it ? I have trouble finding one small enough
Nice tutorial! Almost as good as reading an old article in "The Camera Craftsman!"
Thank you.
Dear Fix Old Camera's, Does the AT-1 and AV-1 Also have the ASA link wire?
This helped me a lot but I still have a problem, My shutter wont go. From the research I've done I believe the Shutter Magnet is out of play. How would I fix that and/or diagnose any other problems?
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Thank you, Great video, i was able to successfully replace my battery door clean fungus from the viewfinder and replace the light Seals.
Such great videos. I just picked up a Canon Av-1 and, unfortunately, the VF screen bw the prism has black smears that I assume are degraded foam. Removed the top cover but was stopped in my tracks by the circuitry pad covering the prism and couldn't see an easy way to remove to get to the prism and screen. It was much simpler with the Minolta srt's with your videos. Do you have a video on cleaning the prism/vf for the av1 or even ae1 as they look similarly encased in circuitry. Thanks!
Unfortunately several of the cameras in the the Canon A series have sealed prism (such as the AV-1 and the AE-1), the only way to remove the focusing screen is by removing the prism which is obviously buried under the flex circuit. You can use distilled water saturated swabs following the concentric circles of the fresnel to remove the residue. It still might leave some scarring of the screen. Do not use lens cleaner or alcohol on the viewfinder screens as a fogged screen will be the result. Watch for an up coming FOC Tip video on removing degraded foam smudges from viewfinder screens.
thank you!
the video helped me tremendously
Hey thank you so much, after scrubbing the contacts it finally worked. Just a quick question, is it okay I remove the plastic cover permanently? I think its abit warped and sometimes causes the magnet to be stuck and not released.
Yes - In a few less you might need to clean the surfaces again as it is more open to contamination, but will not harm the functionality.
I broke the shutter speed dial because I didnt have a spanner wrench... I brook a $40-$50 camera because I didnt have a $13 part. BUT, I fully know how to take the camera apart and put it back together properly because of this video.... I was able to take the camera fully apart, and put it back together. I didnt check the linkage, I was almost done. I was taking the shutter speed dial back off so I can check the linkage and noticed the entire advanced lever retaining screw had fully broken off, I would need another camera for parts + a spanner wrench to replace the broken part. getting another AE-1 shouldn't be a problem. It was a learning experience. Thanks for the video.
+Christian Robinson The experience gained will help in you next attempt along with the persistence and patience you have already displayed. You might check out the Fix Old Camera video "A DIY Spanner Wrench for
Classic Cameras". You will find the video in the "Repair Basics 101"
playlist. Thank you for you comments and interest in Fix Old Cameras.
This video has been helpful, thank you so much for sharing. I've ran into a dilemma, maybe you can help?
I tried placing the shutter speed dial back after replacing the door, but I seem to have encountered a problem. It seems to go into place, but it hasn't locked once I align B with the white line. If I let go of the dial so there is no tension, the white line will align with 3200 ASA/ISO on the shutter dial. Do you have any suggestions? I've removed the top cover and placed it back on 3 times now, but haven't encountered this issue before. Normally, the shutter dial snaps into place with B resting on the white line.
Is it possible that the shutter dial linkage cam that lives under the ASA/shutter dial is out of position?
Hi, Do you have any advice on where I can buy tools small enough for camera repairs? I can't seem to find snap ring pliers small enough for my AE-1. The pliers in the link above look very similar to some I already bought which were too large. I also need to purchase a dependable spanner wrench. In general, I just need to start collecting the right tools for my camera. Any suggestions or links that you may have are greatly appreciated. Thanks for all the great videos!
You can start here with some recommendations - astore.amazon.com/fixoldcam-20 However, there are also other good sources. Thank you for your interest in FOC.
This was excellent and I repaired my AE-1.
Very Good to hear.
Where do you buy the spanner wrench to remove the retaining screw?
Gosh, i love this project c:
Is there anyway y’all could do a video on replacing the bottom cover of an Canon AE-1 Program?
Thanks a bunch for these videos, they guided me through dis- and reassembling my AE1 perfectly! I bought my camera used and the rubber washer of the rewind knob was missing - do I have to find one on the junk or can I buy them somewhere?
Doubtful if you can find them on an auction sight, but possible... If you still have the shouldered washer find an o-ring to fit from a local hardware.
It is unlikely, but you might find the part on a photo auction sight. Otherwise use a donor camera or substitute and o-ring and shouldered washer.
Hi! Thank you so much for making these awesome videos. However, I still have a problem with my AE-1 that I can’t seem to fix, and I’m a bit too scared to take off the top cover myself. Every third picture, the shutter won’t fire for a while (I can press the button, and the meter works, but I can't take a picture). After pushing the button a couple of times (or sometimes after pushing it like 100 times), the shutter clicks again. Is there a way to fix this? I just find it very odd that it happens literally every THIRD picture and I can’t seem to find anyone experiencing the same problem. My dad has already looked at the bottom and the release magnet seems fine + I have a brand new battery.
Thank you in advance! :)
It might be a simple fix... even though you have a brand new battery... make sure it is a silver or lithium battery and that it delivering a full 6 volts.
Any thoughts on securing my AE-1 view finder? It seems that it has come loose from the view finder housing.
If you are referring to the viewfinder lens... that can be accessed by removing the top cover and the two screws holding the viewfinder lens frame. If you are referring to the viewfinder screen... not so easy, it is buried under a sealed prism and the upper circuits cover the sealed prism.
Hi! First of, thank you for taking your time and uploading these repair videos to the public. They have helped me greatly so far. I however have a problem that has so far not been discussed here. I recently purchased a Canon AE1. Unfortunately the battery contact is stuck midway, thus preventing me to insert the battery. I tried holding a cotton swab dipped in white vinegar near the contact. This didn't solve the problem though. Do you maybe have a suggestion? I'm guessing the disassembly to access the spring under the bottom contact would be quite complex?
Try seeping alcohol around the contact and gentle working it up and down until it springs up freely.
@@FixOldCameras It worked! Thank you.
Excellent video. So I have unstuck the film, winder etc. But now, when I press the shutter release the mirror sticks up and only drops when i press the battery check buttin? Seems very odd?
There is a strong but not exclusive possibility that the AV/TV (tungsten) link wire has jumped the pulley or broken and is entangled.
th-cam.com/video/hJUidgM6LoI/w-d-xo.html
Hello Sir, I opened the top cover of my A-1 and replaced the battery door. However, when I lay the camera down (lens mount up) with the top cover removed, a small piece of copper (8x8mm, with a hole on one side, like an archway) falls out of the camera on the left side (shutter button side). I can find nowhere to put it back. Do you know where it belongs? Thank you very much.
I am using this guide to repair my at-1 since I can not find a guide anywhere else. I encountered a problem when removing the film winder knob since the at-1 uses that port for the on off switch as well. How do I go about it with that variation.
Taylor Killen The meter on/off control knob is self contained as part of the top cover and will lift free with the top cover. One item to note is that you need to make sure that tabs on the under side of the meter knob link properly with the meter switch when reinstalling the top cover. Remove the rewind knob as shown in the AE-1 video and proceed with the top cover removal.
I can't find snap ring pliers that have small enough points to get into that snap ring on the winder knob. Are those pliers modified or do you have a source for them new?
+Bob Levittan The snap ring pliers available at hard ware stores probably will need to be modified. A small needled nose pliers can also be modified but it will be a bit tricky to use. Or go here... astore.amazon.com/fixoldcam-20?node=1&page=2 the set shown will work in most camera repair applications.
Dead Fix Old Cameras,
Is it possible to remove the Prism from the AE-1? Mine has some fungus on the inside and I'd like to clean it!
Many thanks in advance!
The AE-1 prism is sealed. To remove the prism from an AE-1 the top cover will need to be removed, then all of the upper circuits will need to be removed before you can even access the prism. And please note this channel is Fix Old Cameras...LOL... not Dead Fix Old Cameras
Hello, could explain how clean the pentaprism of the Canon AE-1 ? Thank you
+blanquito133 Unlike the Canon AE-1 Program, thhe Canon AE-1 prism and viewfinder screen are sealed. The top cover and the upper flex circuit must be removed to access the inner VF screen and prism.
Great video! I recently purchased a Canon AE-1, like this one, that is in almost pristine condition except for a problem I found with the ASA dial: It moves up and down from 400 to 3200 ASA and I cannot get it to go below 400, it gets stuck right there. This video will be very useful for me to take the top cover off.
Do you have any advice or comment as what should I expect to see when I get to the ASA dial mechanism? Thanks in advance!
With the top cover off the problem should reveal itself. It is quite possible that the ASA dial tungsten connecting wire is off track and catching. Fix Old Cameras will soon post another Canon AE-1 video that will briefly address the ASA connecting wire's proper position and functionality. The title of the video will be Jammed Transport. Should post next week sometime.
Fix Old Cameras Great! Thank you for your quick response. I look forward to watching that coming video of yours before doing any repair attempt.
Hi, do you guys know if there are any metal doors, just like the one you used in the video, still around? I'd much rather not going through this procedure every six months or so just because of a fragile battery door. Thanks
.The metal doors are salvaged from the early models of the AE-1. If you are unable to come across one to junk out the plastic after market replacements are satisfactory and function fine. However, on close inspection do not match perfectly cosmetically.
Your movie helped me see how to get to the loosened ring that holds the lens. Someone had fumbled with him before and did not fix the screws. I used a nail polish that protects the screws against unscrewing.
Good to hear of your success. Thank you for the comment
Hey, I am just wondering if I you could help me out. I have a Canon AE1 which I love but when I recently went to use it I noticed that the battery drains completely dead within a day of two with no use. Do you know what the cause may be and how I could fix it? Thanks.
When the the battery drains in one to six weeks is often caused by the residual of slight moisture damage. Remove the top and bottom cover and powder corrosion. It is sometimes nearly indiscernible. There are seven systems which are always connected to the the battery. Connect a DVM in micro-amp mode in series with the battery terminals, the current load should read no more than 0.5 micro-amp. If there are no signs of moisture that can be cleaned than it is likely a failed component.
A question was raised as to whether repair procedures can be performed with film still in the camera. Probably would be advisable to remove the film first to avoid the possibility of inadvertently fogging the film. The film door could accidentally be opened or light might pass through a screw hole once its screw has been removed.
You won't be able to remove the top cover without opening the back as the rewind knob has to be removed.
Thanks for the fun and insightful comment, for to remove the top cover as outlined in the Fix Old Cameras video you are absolutely correct. However, it might be possible to remove the rewind knob by backwinding in the wrong direction without releasing the rewind clutch button. The film canister would effectively lock the rewind shaft and facilitate the rewind knob possibly spinning free.
If you watched the video that answer seems pretty obvious.
Hello, is there a way to turn remove the top lid even if the ASA dial is stuck out of place?
Not exactly sure what you are referring... but the ASA/shutter speed dial is held in place with a spanner nut underneath the advance lever.
Thanks!!! I have to do this to my A-1. Could you please make a video how to take cover off for Canon A-1. Thanks
Yes, the removal of the Top Cover of an A-1 is a little more complicated, but still a straight forward simple procedure suitable for demonstration. Watch for it in the next couple of months.
@@FixOldCameras hi, I am trying to replace the cover. I have two A-1, one défective and one in good functioning. That one has a broken cover, while the defective one has it in great condition. I am trying to swap them but I am struggling really hard to lift that bar holding the door up. Any tips? It feels like it is completely stuck, it won’t even move by a nanometer. I went on and sprayed WD-40 on the top and bottom, but it didn’t help + the surface is slippery now. I’m a bit frustrated that I can’t do the final step to swap these doors 😅
Do I absolutely need to remove the lens and the film ? thank you
Probably would be best, but not absolute.
It worked! Thanks! :)
Good to hear of your success.
my AE1 rewind knob fell off. do you know what the size of the screw is that goes through the rewind nob and into the camera? the inner knob where the film goes is still intact, just the very small screw that goes through the top cover part
The AE-1 rewind knob screws directly onto the rewind shaft, the AE1P has a shouldered screw in the center of the rewind knob. It measures 3mm.
@@FixOldCameras 3mm by 0.5mm? do you think it is possible to find this screw by itself? that is all i am missing i have both parts but the screw
Hi, wouldn't it be possible to change the door without removing the top cover, just sliding the pin upwards? Greetings
It is probably possibly, but you run the risk of the pin catching and tearing the flex that runs across the front of the camera.
I'm repairing my dad's old AE-1, and a retainer ring is missing, by any chance do you know the dimensions so I can buy a replacement?
6.5mm... the problem might be finding one that is thin enough. You might be able to find a trashed AE-1 donor camera easier and for less than a specialty "C" ring.
I opened up my camera and changed the door and assembled everything but now the auto exposure meter in the viewfinder in constantly showing under exposure even when I adjust my shutter speeds and whatnot... any ideas as to what my problem might be?
Maybe recheck the linkage to your ASA and shutter speed dial, perhaps upon reassembly you did not get it properly seated.
Fix Old Cameras is that possible to remove view finder to clean inside of it please tell me how to do it
The AE-1 prism is "sealed" yet dust still occasionally manages to find its way between the prism and the VF screen. A frustrating situation... Because, unfortunately, the only way to access the inside surface of the VF screen is to remove the top cover, then unsolder a multitude of connections so as to facilitate folding the flexible PCB out the way. Only then can the prism be unsealed and the inside surface of the VF screen be accessed.
Hey, I got one of these at goodwill for $3 without the shutter speed dial and no advance lever. How will I be able to get the shutter speed selection correct? Like you had it at B and 32. Am I going to have to keep trying every combo until it works?
Are you using it with a power winder? Count back from the bulb setting to find the shutter speed you want.
No. No power winder. I bought the shutter dial and the advance lever and installed it. I don’t think the shutter speed timing is right. Or can I match it up?
How can I match it up* not or can I match it up
Ok so I put the parts together and the only way I can get the shutter to do a full click (open and close the shutter) is when I have the shutter dial set between 1 and the orange 2. If it’s on any other setting it takes very very long for it to close.
What size JIS crosspoint screwdriver is used for the Canon AE-1?
2.5mm or #0
Fix Old Cameras thank you so much!
I replaced my battery door but now my shutter speeds stay the same at all settings. Any ideas of what I did that could have affected this? Thanks
Hopefully you did not damage the flex circuit and the only thing that happen was you inadvertently dislodged the position of the shutter speed dial contacts. Some of the other FOC videos on the AE-1 show how the shutter speed dial contacts seat.
Im having issues with my shutter speed dial. It doesnt "click" in to the speed Im choosing on the dial. Its just sliding when I want to choose shutter speed. Kinda hard to explain but,
when I want to choose shutter speed 500 it kinda "springs" back to 250.
Anybody have had similiar problem or know if this issue can be fixed?
In the future that particular issue will probably be featured in a FOC video. In the meantime this FOC viceo might help th-cam.com/video/Vonx87C1zvU/w-d-xo.html At the one minute and twenty second mark you will see a good image of the shutter speed dial detent wheel and spring tension detent levers.
Hey I’m working on my old at-1 and the access plate is different and doesn’t seem to want to come up any clue why?
The AT-1 top cover removal advance lever side identical to the AE-1. On the rewind side you only need to remove the knob itself. The switch assembly is part of the top cover.
Hi there,
I have a little, but apparently easy question to do.
I have a silver Canon just for parts, and I have the possibility to buy a Black one (same model). The thing its the blcak have the battery door broken. So, I would like to know if I just can change the door of the silver to put on the Black. Everyone know if the color its the same? its compatible?
Regards
Tiago Costa It is compatible. With a little care upon removal of the donor battery door you should be good to go.
Thanks !!
Do you need JIS 000 or 0000 driver for this job ?
The JIS #000 is very tiny. Most of the classic camera's external body screws of the AE-1 era are JIS #0 (2.5mm). Once inside the camera you might find some JIS #00 (1.7mm). And on rare occasion JIS #000 and very rare, but still possible a JIS #1 will appear.
What if i took the top cover off without moving the shutter speed dial and ISA into the configuration you show in the very first step (B shutter speed and 32 iso)? I came here because my lever won’t move after a certain point. I checked the magnet in the bottom and confirmed that it’s operating fine. So I took the top cover off to check if the gears were getting stuck with some plastic. That’s when I discovered that several of the small triangular metal pieces on the underside of the dial with the numbers were broken off. I found a few of them and can’t find the others. The dial itself was cracked and broken when I first got the camera but it was operating fine for a few weeks until just the other day when I shot a whole role of film and on the last exposure the shutter got stuck in the closed position. I could see anything when I looked through the viewfinder. Long story short is If I want to put the top cover back on how can I make sure I get the iso and shutter speed back into the correct settings because I don’t know what they were when I took it off and i’m sure I messed with it when it was off as well. Please, please help!!
Hi, did you ever figure this out? I have a similar issue.
@@drew8453I could not figure it out on my own. I ended get taking to a local film store and they recommended me to an excellent camera repair man. Had my camera cleaned and fixed within a week.
Hey! Does anybody know if there's any method to open the film cover (back cover) without using the rewind crank (or rewind knob)? it is broken and the insider part of it got loose and fall inside the camera :( Please help!! this is my favorite camera and i need it, if i'm not being clear please let me know cause i don't speak english as native language, Thanks a lot, and excellent video! as always
Although not specific to your camera this video link might help you figure out how to get the film door open without the rewind crank.
th-cam.com/video/gQJQgdE4ISc/w-d-xo.html
Fix Old Cameras Thanks for your answer, I have a Canon Ae-1 slr camera.
I was finally able to open the film door and install the rewind knob, which was obstructed by a wire, fortunately with help of a thin screwdriver i managed to push it to one side, leaving enough space to the longest component of the rewind knob for passing through hole. I really appreciate your job, Thanks a lot!!
hi! can you PLEEAASSE help me!! i went through the procedure and everything but only the bulb mode wont work. any ideas as to why?? all the other shutter speeds are fine :/
It is possible that the bulb switch is not being closed by the shutter speed resistor plate. On the Fix Old Camera video Canon AE1 ASA Linkage wire repair, there is a good shoot of the bulb switch at the 6:00 mark. It is the two brass contacts to the left of the screen. At the 6:46 mark of the same referenced video you will see the bulb switch closed as the shutter speed dial resistor plate is rotated.
hi! i will check it out thank you so much for replying and also now the light meter is also acting up and i have no idea why n i cant explain how its not working either
At the same time check the routing of the ASA linkage wire, the two problems could be related to the same issue.
oh yeah i had weirdly wrapped it and the wire broke too, i had noticed that it was pretty old and damaged; it finally came to an end. well at least i know how to fix it! thank you so much!!!
Fix Old Cameras Hi! again! sorry i keep bothering you but i CAN NOT find a SINGLE 0.005 Kevlar fishing line or any other types and for some lines it doesnt even say what diameter it is :/ please help me!! my finals are coming up! 😿😿😿
IT FUCKING WORKS THANK YOU SO MUCH
Hey what about the at-1
Absolutely. Thank you for your comments and support of FOC.
The top cover of the film advance lever will not come off help!
Possible some corrosion or gunk around the edge the top cover. Try seeping a little alcohol around the edge of the top cover and gently rocking the top cover with pressure first on one end then the other. Be careful with the alcohol as you do not want even a drop to come in contact with the view finder screen.
@@FixOldCameras I have the same problem and unfortunately do not have a spanner wrench to remove it. I am currently constructing a dyi one according to your video on the subject. Hopefully with a bit of alcohol and the wrench spanner, I will be able to get it off!
I wanted to replace my battery door as one of the corners is broken, and I wanted to do it myself... This video is GREAT, but I think I will just leave the door the way it is.
Too delicate, too many very very small screws.
Thank you very much for the tutorial.
I just don't your superpowers.
You could do it, but no harm, no foul if you do not. Thank you for you comments and support of FOC.
One step is missing at 2:50!!!!
+Máté Juhász
Could possibly be a little clearer on how the hinge pin for the battery door is pulled upward. To pull the pin free of the lower seating does take a little firm finessing as the there is not much clearance to grip the pin with the pliers. Thanks for your interest in Fix Old Cameras.
FUUUUUUCK DUDES! I THINK I REALLY DID SCREWED UP!! BY ACCIDENT I RELEASE THE SHUTTER SPEED DIAL BEFORE SCREW THE THING, AND NOW I GOT A LITTLE WIRE WHICH I THINK IT WORKS TO SYNCHRONIZE BOTH WHEELS AS YOU SHOWN IN THE VIDEO, CAN YOU TELL ME PLEASE HOW THE FUCK I FIX THIS MESS?? I'LL REALLY APRECIATTE IT. :D
This too can be fixed. The Canon AE-1 ASA tungsten wire linkage will be covered in an upcoming Fix Old Cameras video. The title of the video will probably be "Canon AE-1 Jammed Transport". As long as the wire link is not damaged this video should help you reset the timing and tension. The video will be posted as soon as possible.Thank you for your interest and patience.
THANKS A LOT FOR ANSEWR ME, I ALREADY FIXED THE ISSUE, IT TOOKS ME A WHILE BUT IS DONE NOW, NOW I GOT ANOTHER ISSUE WITH MY AE1 AND IT IS WITH THE LEVER TO FORWARD FILM AFTER SHOOT, IT GOES MORE FAR AS USUAL AND THE MECHANISM NEVER GET READY OR STOCK TO BE REALESED BY THE SHUTTER, SO I HAVE NO SHUTTER ANSWER, AND THE MIRROR NEVER GET UP OR EVEN MOVE, IS IT POSSIBLE TO BE A BATTERY ISSUE? I'LL KEEP YOUR YT CHANNEL PRETTY CLOSE, IN CASE YOU GUYS GOT THE ANSWER, CONGRATS FOR THIS AMAZING VIDS, THEY'RE BADASS!
I hate to be critical of such a desperately needed & generously produced resource as this video, but I must point out some poor choices. The worst is that the tutorial ends prematurely, just as re-assembly begins. Viewers are forced to skip around, hunting for segments in reverse order as they work. It's like you guided them into the jungle and then abandoned them rather than leading them back out. Next is that this video needlessly skips over portions of the work with cuts/dissolves as if prioritizing a short runtime when we, the viewers, are desperate to see the work runtime be damned. Next, you should open the video by showing, even for just a few seconds, what tools will be needed, like a spanner wrench. Don't let someone get halfway into the disassembly and then tell them that they'll need a JIS cross point screwdriver. Finally, this narrator's delivery is unforgivably boring. It's like he's disinterested and reading off a page under protest. The lady at the beginning is much better, let her do it or give the man a cup of coffee and a will to live.
Ahhh, the classic line from those who are about to criticize… Even for an endeavor such as a piddling little you tube channel featuring a few vintage cameras, it brings to mind in a very slight way “The Man in the Arena” by TR - No matter, a thank you is still in order as you used time to watch and comment and as such is appreciated. And there are at least 130 more FOC videos all deliberately produced in the same manner. Some more detailed, others less detailed, all narrated in the same laid back self-deprecating manner. As far as future videos go, your criticism will be, or maybe might be, considered. One thing we can certainly agree on is the fine lady the narrates the opening is much better. What voice... and she can cook too. If you are having trouble sleeping or in need of some critical diversion FOC might be a go to channel. What also might be helpful, if you are interested in compiling some minor camera repair tool, is the following link. th-cam.com/video/3l8ZPfB2RmE/w-d-xo.html or perhaps not. Thank you again for your interest and concern.