I can't believe Atua is telling this story where he almost drowns while surfing and the whole time he is smiling. He is crazy. (In a good way of course)
There was a swell the day before Mavericks became triple over head and I was surfing with a couple of my buddy's at Pacifica lindamar. And I got one of the worst beatings ever! and because of that day I've been having anxieties of just paddling out now. (10-15ft waves)
That happened to Jackie & I at the Boys to Men Mentoring 100 Wave Challenge fund raiser in San Diego a couple of years ago. We just made it outside hoping to give our arms a rest when a freak big set came in. We should have tossed our boards but turtled & got pounded. She was on my left when it hit but wound up on my right - like a ride in an industrial washing machine. The white water was huge & so much light I almost took a breath before realizing I was still a foot under. In all these years never had one so wild. Like you say "stuff memories are made of"!
I love your videos guys! Awesome footage, stories, etc. I can totally relate to those poundings. I nearly drown my first time in El Salvador. Went in July and caught the biggest swell in 5 years or so. Triple overhead and pounding on the inside shore-break. We broke a few boards and stretched some leashes to 15-20'. I broke a leash 300 yards out and started wearing two leashes. You know when it's time to throw the board aside and dive deep! Can't DD 10' walls of whitewater. Haha.
there is a crew of us in El Tunco el salvador and we caught the swell. those clean up sets are bad news. board snapping beasts. stay safe. I love watching your posts.
Hey guys I'm watching your channel for some time now(also atua's channel). I really love your videos. You have such a passion for surfing and it's great how you share this with your children. I have never surfed before but I would love to come out to Costa rica some time and surf with you guys. Is there any programme for such?
+iSURFTRIBE he you should come surfing in the Netherlands one time, whe dont have the best waves but whe have fun waves. type in on internet "surfing scheveningen" or "surfing the Netherlands"
sounds really good! i would love to come! what is your instagram cause we are hoping to visit costa rica one day (when i finally persuade my parents) so we can surf! i am atuas age and would love to surf there! is there a website or anything relating to any surf camps on that beach or that area. if so i would love to know.
love the vidoes guys sharing with the kids, taking a pounding can be scary more so when you wear a couple in a row on the head. After the surviving first wave of the set then the second on the head again, have to go to that happy place. Dont panic is all I can say
I hate that feeling too! I've had the freak outside sets on 14+ days happen at Roca Loca & Terrazas.... and all you can think as the wave blocks out the sun is, "Man ... after this thing gets done kicking the crud out of me, I hope I'll stiff have an intact leash/board and not be stuck trying to swim in through this stuff!" And to answer the unasked question .. a few times I HAVE had to make the long, scary, exhausting swim back through big surf and rips.
Waves get big where I live, we once had a swell that was 9ft tall, not sure about how big the face was, but it was big, double overhead waves, I ditched my board and surfed a foamie out back because they're like low budget guns :D I still haven't had my worst beating yet, my longest hold down was like 20 seconds, what you guys took sounded crazy, I just swim like a mad man towards the channel when I know I can't make it over a set and scrape for the horizon like you guys :p
haha that wave you both paddled for....we've all been there, you know once you've gone for it your way out of position for the next rolling set, but now you have gone for it, your committed fully......doh! coming to costa in august pure vida guys
Man - I can relate to that. I grew up surfing on the West Coast of North New Zealand. The swell is so rugged here. There's a big shelf off the coast that compresses the swell which makes it feel like you're in a washing machine. You get held under longer than i can even hold my breath, then come up to the top so relieved that I haven't drowned.
i was born in new zealand but grew up in germany. only 3 months until i will return to my beloved west coast beaches! - can't wait! You are right, the surf is pretty wild there.. but i love it that way.. more than the east coast. :)
AnnaTaikata Yeah - the West coast is beautiful. It's so consistent too, which means you can always get a wave. I do find myself trying to paddle to Australia when the big sets roll in because the swell is so close together that you can get pounded by the next wave before you've even surfaced from the last wave. I learned to take a quick breath as soon as I get to the surface, because that next wave is often right there. Right now the swell is just under triple overhead @ 17 second intervals, with light winds. Far too big for me, even though I've been going out there for 21 years.
AnnaTaikata My mate used to live at Maori Bay up at the top of the cliffs. We could see the whole of Maori Bay (plus some of Muriwai) from his house. It could get pretty windy up there.
I New York the waves only get big like 1 time a year. I was at the beach that day and I got completely demolished. I know the feeling Atua and Keli. I don't surf but I really like to boogie board.
Actually next week, waves should be bigger. Btw, you should come to the golden coast of Santa Cruz, Guanacaste. (Marbella, Avellanas, playa negra...) The waves right now are pretty fun!
The same thing happened to me with Auta. I surf on a reef, and a massive set came and i got pushed to the bottom of the reef and I was so close to drowning, and my board was apparently tombstoning for ages. I hate the feeling when you have no air and you cant find the surface
+isurftribe hey great video! Seeing the groms getting poundings inspire me to go surf outside my comfort zone. We also got a south swell here in socal. It was about head high and was pooping my wetsuit lolol keep the great work and pura vida!
Awesome videos guys.. where do you guys surf? Im actaully down in north playa hermosa, last time I was here I was caught in a nasty clean up set. there was a big swell coming in but I thought i could handle it. most waves were managable but every 20 min or so a huge set would roll in. Took the first wave like the noob I am, it was after 4 days of surfing and I was exhausted from not surfing regularly (here on vacation). I got tossed the in the first wave and I got to the surface to see a 2 ft overhead wave coming. Tried to swim under and ditch my board but im not that good and i ride a 7ft board which floats only too well. Got sucked into the white wash for what seemed like forever. made it to the surface exhausted for the next equal size wave. same thing almost panicked this time in the wave i was held under for so long, got to the surface and wanted to be anywhere but where i was gasping for air, look up and a fourth wave equal size was next. In this wave I said to myself this is it im going to drown. powerless. this is my first time back since then, went out today and I have terrible anxiety, trying to get back on the horse. caught a wave and it wasnt even fun. I hope its not ruined for me. you guys are inspiring, ive been trying to watch youtube videos to help me get over it. thanks for sharing your experience.
I was in Hawaii and a wave came in, I ditched the board and my leash came out. So I was in the middle of no where without board and waves smashing on me. God create a reef close to me so I was able to stay on before I hurt my knee on it. Then I decided to start swiming to the shore but shortly after God put a guy on my way with my board. Oh damn I was like 300ft from the shore, never gonna make it.
that's what I don't like about the break here. it tends to be so shallow you can't swim down far enough to escape the wave . all I can on do some days is just grab where my leash attaches to the board and hang on and dive in .
When ever I go surfing in bigger waves like 6-8 foot I get exhausted very easily even after one set of 8ft is there a way to help get my endurance up to handle bigger waves for a longer period of time
Hit the gym, big waves don't happen often so you can't build endurance just surfing big waves because big swells only happen a few times a year. Also rent out, borrow or take a bigger board out so it's easier to paddle in.
Absolutely not, it'll just help with your cardio, not more, you need to do pushups, lift weights, and use those machines that involve arm pulling that work the shoulders, or just swim 2 hours every 2 days, that'll build you lots of muscle used in paddling.
how do you guys measure waves in costa rica? Like when you say 8 Foot do you mean 8 foot on the face, and how often do you get swells of decent size a year? Here in New Zealand we get what we call 8 foot swell every 3-4 weeks and 8 foot in New Zealand means 16 foot on the face, just ineterested to know because the scale people use seems a little different everywhere.
Their scale is a little different. I know our Florida waves on a 4-6 foot day in Florida if the same waves were there it would be only like 2-3 foot for them. So their scale is different. And also longer lines and more powerful
I went to a volcanic island during a swell and the waves were like 6 feet and barreling and suddenly a rogue set came in and the waves were 15 feet and slamming! Btw I’m 13 and I got absolutely pounded, I was held under for about a minute, and if I hadn’t practiced my breath holding I could have drowned without a doubt, then I caught this killer wave to shore and saw a shark in the wave, it was gnarly dude!
It felt like two 3 minutes so I’m asuming it was about 1 min, but it was definently 10-15 feet everybody was going crazy over that set about that rogue set
la verdad que de estos videos he aprendido bastantes cosas pese a que me cueste el ingles, queria preguntar una duda tecnica que tengo, y es como conseguir un bottom mas cerrado en una ola muy rapida, no consigo hacer buenos giros en mi playa local porque al ser rapida y hueca tengo que generar velocidad rapidamente y cuando tengo la opcion del giro no consigo hacer bien el bottom, alguna ayuda por favor?
when i get pounded then i cant get back to the surface swiming, i begin to pull the leash cause my board are in tombstone mode and keep calm dont panic to save oxigen in my lungs.
In some countries in south america they carry stuff like zika and in africa malaria, so they're kinda of dangerous, but obviously they're staying away from them because the bites are so damn itchy xD
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Cool story! Thanks.
I have an idea for a vid: try to surf on a boogie board
3:51
"da-doink!"
Kevin Psomas I do that all the time in shore break
Thats a real thing.
professional boogie boarders do that all the time
I can't believe Atua is telling this story where he almost drowns while surfing and the whole time he is smiling. He is crazy. (In a good way of course)
Fascinating story! And a bit of a scare, too. When, as Atua described, you start to wonder if you're going to drown, it makes you think.
i got held uner 12 sec but it felt like 1 minut, scary
U were under their counting like oooonnnneee... twoooooo. Threeeeee...and so on until 12 seconds
Nothing scarier than that 'big wave' rag doll. Be safe guys! Keep charging!
So glad you all are safe! Hope you got some good rides too :)
There was a swell the day before Mavericks became triple over head and I was surfing with a couple of my buddy's at Pacifica lindamar. And I got one of the worst beatings ever! and because of that day I've been having anxieties of just paddling out now. (10-15ft waves)
I love this channel. You guys are so wholesome and have so much insight! Keep up the great content :)
That happened to Jackie & I at the Boys to Men Mentoring 100 Wave Challenge fund raiser in San Diego a couple of years ago. We just made it outside hoping to give our arms a rest when a freak big set came in. We should have tossed our boards but turtled & got pounded. She was on my left when it hit but wound up on my right - like a ride in an industrial washing machine. The white water was huge & so much light I almost took a breath before realizing I was still a foot under. In all these years never had one so wild. Like you say "stuff memories are made of"!
I love your videos guys! Awesome footage, stories, etc. I can totally relate to those poundings. I nearly drown my first time in El Salvador. Went in July and caught the biggest swell in 5 years or so. Triple overhead and pounding on the inside shore-break. We broke a few boards and stretched some leashes to 15-20'. I broke a leash 300 yards out and started wearing two leashes. You know when it's time to throw the board aside and dive deep! Can't DD 10' walls of whitewater. Haha.
I can't wait for more videos like this one shakas 🌊
Hello! You guys are the best i hope your channel grows to millions of subscribers keep up the awesome work thank you for the amazing content
there is a crew of us in El Tunco el salvador and we caught the swell. those clean up sets are bad news. board snapping beasts. stay safe. I love watching your posts.
Hey guys I'm watching your channel for some time now(also atua's channel). I really love your videos. You have such a passion for surfing and it's great how you share this with your children. I have never surfed before but I would love to come out to Costa rica some time and surf with you guys. Is there any programme for such?
Yah, There are a couple ways, we work with fans that want to come here to learn surfing. If you want more info you can private message me here or IG.
+iSURFTRIBE he you should come surfing in the Netherlands one time, whe dont have the best waves but whe have fun waves. type in on internet "surfing scheveningen" or "surfing the Netherlands"
sounds really good! i would love to come! what is your instagram cause we are hoping to visit costa rica one day (when i finally persuade my parents) so we can surf! i am atuas age and would love to surf there! is there a website or anything relating to any surf camps on that beach or that area. if so i would love to know.
Great story! we’ve all been there!Glad you guys made it in safe 👍🏼 🤙🏼
love the vidoes guys sharing with the kids, taking a pounding can be scary more so when you wear a couple in a row on the head. After the surviving first wave of the set then the second on the head again, have to go to that happy place. Dont panic is all I can say
I hate that feeling too! I've had the freak outside sets on 14+ days happen at Roca Loca & Terrazas.... and all you can think as the wave blocks out the sun is, "Man ... after this thing gets done kicking the crud out of me, I hope I'll stiff have an intact leash/board and not be stuck trying to swim in through this stuff!" And to answer the unasked question .. a few times I HAVE had to make the long, scary, exhausting swim back through big surf and rips.
Waves get big where I live, we once had a swell that was 9ft tall, not sure about how big the face was, but it was big, double overhead waves, I ditched my board and surfed a foamie out back because they're like low budget guns :D
I still haven't had my worst beating yet, my longest hold down was like 20 seconds, what you guys took sounded crazy, I just swim like a mad man towards the channel when I know I can't make it over a set and scrape for the horizon like you guys :p
Awesome story !!
haha that wave you both paddled for....we've all been there, you know once you've gone for it your way out of position for the next rolling set, but now you have gone for it, your committed fully......doh! coming to costa in august pure vida guys
Haha sounds like a rough day! 🌊
would you consider sending me some fins and leashes to try out on the gold coast of australia
@@kaidonaldson4340 lol
this swell had my surf lesson canceled. can't wait to be proficient enough to join the crowd. awesome story!
Man - I can relate to that. I grew up surfing on the West Coast of North New Zealand. The swell is so rugged here. There's a big shelf off the coast that compresses the swell which makes it feel like you're in a washing machine. You get held under longer than i can even hold my breath, then come up to the top so relieved that I haven't drowned.
i was born in new zealand but grew up in germany. only 3 months until i will return to my beloved west coast beaches! - can't wait! You are right, the surf is pretty wild there.. but i love it that way.. more than the east coast. :)
AnnaTaikata
Yeah - the West coast is beautiful. It's so consistent too, which means you can always get a wave. I do find myself trying to paddle to Australia when the big sets roll in because the swell is so close together that you can get pounded by the next wave before you've even surfaced from the last wave.
I learned to take a quick breath as soon as I get to the surface, because that next wave is often right there.
Right now the swell is just under triple overhead @ 17 second intervals, with light winds. Far too big for me, even though I've been going out there for 21 years.
Yea I know I go to Piha all the time
I go to Maori Bay when I am there :)
AnnaTaikata
My mate used to live at Maori Bay up at the top of the cliffs. We could see the whole of Maori Bay (plus some of Muriwai) from his house. It could get pretty windy up there.
I love ur channel so much. Im a surfer as well and the stories are amazing :))))))))))
Got a decent swell coming to SoFlo this weekend!! Let's hope it's a good one!
When throwing your board and going under, are you supposed to take your leash off then throw your board? Or keep your leash on?
keep it on.
I New York the waves only get big like 1 time a year. I was at the beach that day and I got completely demolished. I know the feeling Atua and Keli. I don't surf but I really like to boogie board.
Love the stories
FAKE!!!!
These guys give me (21 yrs old, 6ft) more motivation to catch the bigger waves. They are chargers compared to OBX waves I surf lol
awesome guys !!!!! love your videos
LOVE YOUR CHANNEL SO MUCH😍😍❤️🙌🏼
Something I do is when a set comes in that I can't duck dive and I feel EXTREMELY uncomfortable going under, I will just ride it in once it breaks
You guys are awesome!! I hate the feeling of not being able to reach the surface hahahah
Love your videos
Dang 30 seconds is a crazy hold down
Actually next week, waves should be bigger. Btw, you should come to the golden coast of Santa Cruz, Guanacaste. (Marbella, Avellanas, playa negra...) The waves right now are pretty fun!
i feel like i was in the sea with you after this story :D
The same thing happened to me with Auta. I surf on a reef, and a massive set came and i got pushed to the bottom of the reef and I was so close to drowning, and my board was apparently tombstoning for ages. I hate the feeling when you have no air and you cant find the surface
Surf tribe! Can you do a "how to" for applying sunscreen and which kinds you prefer or recommend?
+isurftribe hey great video! Seeing the groms getting poundings inspire me to go surf outside my comfort zone. We also got a south swell here in socal. It was about head high and was pooping my wetsuit lolol keep the great work and pura vida!
swells hitting Australia on monday, where going to surf a place in Sydney harbour called middle head
Keep up making great videos
WOW! If only you had had another camera person shooting all that - it would have made GREAT footage for all us fans! Next time hopefully =)
Awesome videos guys.. where do you guys surf? Im actaully down in north playa hermosa, last time I was here I was caught in a nasty clean up set. there was a big swell coming in but I thought i could handle it. most waves were managable but every 20 min or so a huge set would roll in. Took the first wave like the noob I am, it was after 4 days of surfing and I was exhausted from not surfing regularly (here on vacation). I got tossed the in the first wave and I got to the surface to see a 2 ft overhead wave coming. Tried to swim under and ditch my board but im not that good and i ride a 7ft board which floats only too well. Got sucked into the white wash for what seemed like forever. made it to the surface exhausted for the next equal size wave. same thing almost panicked this time in the wave i was held under for so long, got to the surface and wanted to be anywhere but where i was gasping for air, look up and a fourth wave equal size was next. In this wave I said to myself this is it im going to drown. powerless. this is my first time back since then, went out today and I have terrible anxiety, trying to get back on the horse. caught a wave and it wasnt even fun. I hope its not ruined for me. you guys are inspiring, ive been trying to watch youtube videos to help me get over it. thanks for sharing your experience.
I love to surf but I can only surf when there is waves (about once a week) any tips??
I live in Scotland so it is very cold most of the time
how do u not have more subs?!?!?!
wicked video very impressed
great video, love you guys
here in the Netherlands it never gets bigger than 2-5ft sometimes higher (5,6 times in a year).
I was in Hawaii and a wave came in, I ditched the board and my leash came out. So I was in the middle of no where without board and waves smashing on me. God create a reef close to me so I was able to stay on before I hurt my knee on it. Then I decided to start swiming to the shore but shortly after God put a guy on my way with my board. Oh damn I was like 300ft from the shore, never gonna make it.
Hey great job! I learned alot from you. What beach do you film? I tried to found the name with no success. Thanks!
that's what I don't like about the break here. it tends to be so shallow you can't swim down far enough to escape the wave . all I can on do some days is just grab where my leash attaches to the board and hang on and dive in .
When ever I go surfing in bigger waves like 6-8 foot I get exhausted very easily even after one set of 8ft is there a way to help get my endurance up to handle bigger waves for a longer period of time
Hit the gym, big waves don't happen often so you can't build endurance just surfing big waves because big swells only happen a few times a year.
Also rent out, borrow or take a bigger board out so it's easier to paddle in.
+Zach Echo will simply running on the treadmill do the trick
Absolutely not, it'll just help with your cardio, not more, you need to do pushups, lift weights, and use those machines that involve arm pulling that work the shoulders, or just swim 2 hours every 2 days, that'll build you lots of muscle used in paddling.
+Zach Echo Thank you
Surf every day for about 2 hours per sesh (once your body can endure it)! If there are rideable waves, you'll get your endurance up!
If I only have a little bit of experience on surfing and don't have a board, should I get a foam board?? Please please please answer!!!!!
why won't you guys do body boards? never seen that vid.try it
I've heard that zika virus is in Costa Rica. Do you guys think it will be an issue if I take a surf trip there?
Are you guys close to jaco? I’d like some lessons if possible
in begium are the wave's not so big ):
Ruben Coen same in the Neherlands
Ruben Coen het beste is oostende denkek
Really hope you see this Moi! I'm dying to buy some surf tribe merch! Where can I find it?? Love the videos, you guys are my favorite TH-cam channel!
Omg glad you all survived
That was a good "talk story" but pretty scary !
i live in esparza CR is that close to the beach you go to?
Never let go of ur boards kids
Love your channel! Keep it up! If you find yourselves in Hawaii, look me up! Aloha!
how do you guys measure waves in costa rica? Like when you say 8 Foot do you mean 8 foot on the face, and how often do you get swells of decent size a year? Here in New Zealand we get what we call 8 foot swell every 3-4 weeks and 8 foot in New Zealand means 16 foot on the face, just ineterested to know because the scale people use seems a little different everywhere.
Their scale is a little different. I know our Florida waves on a 4-6 foot day in Florida if the same waves were there it would be only like 2-3 foot for them. So their scale is different. And also longer lines and more powerful
Same thing in Hawaii
6 ft = 12 ft face
I went to a volcanic island during a swell and the waves were like 6 feet and barreling and suddenly a rogue set came in and the waves were 15 feet and slamming! Btw I’m 13 and I got absolutely pounded, I was held under for about a minute, and if I hadn’t practiced my breath holding I could have drowned without a doubt, then I caught this killer wave to shore and saw a shark in the wave, it was gnarly dude!
cap
Wdym cap, bruh, btw the shark was a 3 foot sand shark and the island was an island of the coast of Brazil called Fernando de Noronha
@@tuco_climbs3168 I just doubt that that set was 15 feet
@@tuco_climbs3168 and that you got held down for 1 minute
It felt like two 3 minutes so I’m asuming it was about 1 min, but it was definently 10-15 feet everybody was going crazy over that set about that rogue set
la verdad que de estos videos he aprendido bastantes cosas pese a que me cueste el ingles, queria preguntar una duda tecnica que tengo, y es como conseguir un bottom mas cerrado en una ola muy rapida, no consigo hacer buenos giros en mi playa local porque al ser rapida y hueca tengo que generar velocidad rapidamente y cuando tengo la opcion del giro no consigo hacer bien el bottom, alguna ayuda por favor?
Is this in Hawaii?
Same swell is pumping in SoCal, bummed because I have a sprained wrist and haven't surfed yet😐🔫
More coming up this week, hope your wrist is better!
+Ho Stevie! Thanks dude!
ho brah i catch dis one that was like 12 feet in kona scary hope you guys are ok
Keelee has to learn some camera skills when it's too big for her to go out would of been cool to see what happened
Yeah film da boys!
I had the same feeling as atua but i am small a massive set destroyed me and my leash broke and i nearly drowned
5:00 why do the tress in the background look so bended
What's a grom
Petros Grigoriou surfer skater or snowboarder who is under 14
Ask jackson Dorian to surf with you
I can hold my breath longer when i,m in the air but when I'm in the water I can't hold my breath that long😃
when i get pounded then i cant get back to the surface swiming, i begin to pull the leash cause my board are in tombstone mode and keep calm dont panic to save oxigen in my lungs.
Is that a bird in the backround 2:03
I was surfing 6 to 8 foot swell the biggest I have ever surfed and I got held under 15 seconds it was so scary
I surfed 6-8 when I visited Costa Rica 2 years ago. It was big and closed out but somehow I didn’t get pounded too hard
Ya it sucks trying to swim in foam SCARYY
is a mosquito dangerous?
In some countries in south america they carry stuff like zika and in africa malaria, so they're kinda of dangerous, but obviously they're staying away from them because the bites are so damn itchy xD
nice
Atua that happend to me i thought i was going to drown
hey isurftribe is their any way me and ki'ili can date i am 10,88lbs,51inches thx and its totally up to u and ki'ili
DcRaYzZ haha
what the hell boy
😂
DcRaYzZ wtf lol
troll
Wanna join dogs at the background
Surfline more like surflie
hey
Kili weighs 80 pounds at ten yrs old. I’m ten and I weigh 29
Wtf
Wtf!? She is 80 pounds at 10 yrs old!? I am 65 pounds at 11!
You should look at @kodabeschen on Instagram he's good
180 ft
130 comment
The worst feeling.
Look 30 second hold down is a long time really and on an 8 foot wave not possible
:)
This gave me anxeity
i live in esparza CR is that close to the beach you go to?