Hope this video was helpful! Let me know if you have any questions and I'll do my best to help! Here are the LINKS: NAPA Bushing (for 2023 Ford): www.napaonline.com/en/p/NCP2643953 AMAZON Bushing: amzn.to/44e93TG
I guess you've seen videos of "experts" and "chassis engineers" replacing parts to resolve death wobble. Anyway, respect for solving the actual problem where even the "experts" fail.
I just helped my brother through this, and thanks to this video, we got it fixed. His is a 2016 F-350 Super Duty Lariat with the 6.7L and replacing the drag link (which was bad at the pitman arm), the steering dampener, and the tracking bar did not solve it. We brought it back in the shop and did the bushings (and also discovered a bad 4WD locking hub assembly), and after replacing that and doing the bushings, the problem went away. I wanted to mention for those interested that the factory bushings were +.25 camber and +0.4 caster, which is not what I found trying to look up the factory specs. We used the same bushings mentioned in this video from NAPA. Keeping the camber at +0.25, we were unable to get the max caster these new bushings allow of 2.5°, it just wouldn't go in maxed out, so we went with +0.25/+2.0 and it easily fit. We should have tried 2.25°, but were tired of fighting with getting it in. 2° was enough to solve the problem. As for getting the factory ones out (Minnesota road salt), we had a heck of a time. You mention tapping on the ball joint stud with the castle nut backed to the top, we found that is not enough and should be the second step once the bushing is free of the knuckle. We hammered on the knuckle so hard that we deformed the outer quarter inch of it and decided to remove the vacuum line and heat the knuckle with an acetylene torch. Once we had it almost glowing, we sprayed WD-40 on the bushing while applying pressure. As the WD-40 cooled the bushing, we felt the slightest creek with every squirt. Trouble was, it took so much heating to get the knuckle hot that the bushing also got hot causing them both to expand. The WD-40 helped re-establish the temp difference contracting the bushing which let them come apart. Once the bushing started sliding out of the knuckle, we then started tapping on the ball joint stud/castle nut to free that from the bushing. The second one we heated too much and the heat caused the grease to come out of the ball joint, so be careful. We don't think we totally ruined it so my brother decided to use a grease injector through the rubber to put grease back in. It is a mighty fine balance between enough heat and pressure vs cooking out grease and snapping the bushing flange off. That part alone took us 6 hours. Good luck to the next person that has to do this! And thank you so very much for making this video!!!!
As someone who does alignments I’ve never seen this. Can you adjust the bushing with the tires on and weight of the vehicle on the front suspension (during the alignment)? Thanks
I bought my 99 F250 brand new. 2wd, v10. It just turned 117k miles. I know low miles. I’ve had very lil problems with the truck over the 25 years. Took it to a local mechanic to have some routine maintenance… check brakes, and whatnot. Now I have the death wobble but my camber caster looks way different. Now I have the death wobble
Hey man I swapped the bushing went got my 2013 F250 aligned and totally fixed my truck!! Thanks alot! Turns out being able to align the truck properly works! Thanks again!
Interesting. Well, Ford completely rebuilt my 2012 F-250SD 6.7 at 98,600 miles and so it was covered under warranty, however, it didn't last. Now at 180,000 I am once again exploring the fixes! That said, I would like to note that by replacing a set of tire each time I have addressed the wobble (horrendous), it completely eliminated the wobble until now. You did all the research and don't want to start over, so I am going to give your fix a try. Because to couple hundred more dollars, it is not going to break the bank! I'll let you know how it turns out! Fingers crossed! Thank you
I have recently put a 4 inch bds lift kit with radius arms in my truck. In the computer it shows my caster in spec, however; when I drive it pulls horribly to the right. I’ve heard of each ford having different specs from factory. Do you think the bushings could be the solution ? I’ve been to a few places that are able to get it right on the computer but pulls horrinky right. Everything is fine with lift and components.
THANK YOU for this video series! I have a 2006 F250 that I've had for 10 years. In Jan 2023 I put a set of like new, good used, goodyear tires on it. I don't drive it much as I have a company vehicle. 2 months later while coming down I-75 in N Florida, I hit a POT HOLE and that started my death wobble experiences. I figured I had knocked a wheel weight off the truck. It happened one more time on that trip. I had the balance checked and the tires are still perfectly balanced. A few more trips to N Florida and back from Tampa and I just avoided as many potholes as possible and have not had the DEATH Wobble again, until last month, June of 2024. I going about 70MPH, in the center lane, It was SO BAD that from the center lane that the truck was going for the center jersey wall/wire and I couldn't steer it away from it going there, I HAD to hit the brake HARD to at least slow the impact, and FORTUNATELY, as soon as the truck slowed under 55MPH, the DEATH WOBBLE stopped and I merely missed the wall/wire by about 1 foot. Since then, I stepped up my research on the DEATH WOOBLE. LOTS of videos on the band-aid fix of adding steering dampeners. That didn't seem to be the fix in my eyes AT ALL, so I kept researching and have FINALLY stumbled on your videos and this REALLY REALLY MAKES SENSE! I am ordering the bushings from Amazon and will be replacing them next week. I will try to come back here with an update. Again, THANKS for your videos on this and nice job on the shameless plugs in your videos. Good luck on your internet ventures.
Thank you so much for this video. I’ve been having the death wobble on my 2014 f350 dually. Have replaced the stabilizer and that only helped minimally. Not much play in other steering components. Was about to purchase all new components for the front end but will try this first. Again, thank you.
As a former Belle Tire mechanic and alignment tech this video is great. I always installed them on the rack. This will not solve worn parts, but Fords were notorious for poor OEM alignment specs. I remember 6 degrees of positive camber on the vans, terrible suspentuon design and no adjustability. Bravo
These have always been adjustable. It's done the same way you adjust camber on a 18 wheeler or an A model. They are bent with proper tooling to achieve this result.
I did thousands of these at the shop I worked at. They claimed I was the only one who could fix death wobble and not eat up the tires. I was one of the few that could tell the body shop how much and where to pull the frame so normal alignments could be accomplished. I made cars that dealers and several other shops could not go straight and not wear tires. Best one was a lexus that was in litigation because it could not be aligned by 15 alignment shops including 3 dealers. The lawyer was mad that I fixed it. Problem isn't they couldn't fix them, being on flat rate pay prevented them from putting in the time necessary to doing the job right. It's why parts they get paid to replace sometimes never get installed despite the customer still paying for it, and why good techs are leaving the field.
On your original video of fixing the death wobble, you mentioned that it needed to be set at 3 degrees positive. I am currently trying to find one for a 2011 f350. The closest I can find is up to 2.6 degrees, and there are so many different ones. Call the ones on line and talk to parts store clerks and noone can tell me exactly which one I need. How did you establish which one is correct for your job?
Most alignment shops will not align your truck. If you have those on there they want to go back with a solid bushing. Because those adjustable bushings move and I cost $500 to do an alignment on one of those trucks. I charge labor to take the bushings out put them back in and then do a heavy duty alignment about five $600. It’s crazy.
The alignment shop I took my 1995 4x4 to, told me it was very close to spec but they could align it if I insisted. I don't think they intended on doing this the hard way... If I recall, they mentioned an adjustable bushing. Well, I opted to leave as-is, it's never had any issues and has never been adjusted. I think that's no coincidence.
Awesome video. Had the DW a couple times on my 2017 with only 10k miles. Ford put a new stabilizer on, and so far so good, but if it happens again I will be installing these bushings!
I have a 2011 right side has 4.0 positive castor the left side has 4.4 negative castor can I adjust just the left side? Thanks Great video sometimes I hate these trucks.
Your most positive while keeping the camber green and and cross caster split not more then 1.0 degrees about .5 or so to keep it driving straight on most roads road crown requires .5 degree lower caster on the left side if your split is to high it will pull to the lowest side ford had a bad batch of steering stablizers a few years back caused excessive death wobble in most of the big trucks reason for the recall to replace them, you video is good you have the right idea but i would recommend letting a professional handle the fine tunning put them in. fine save some labor providing there's enough ajustabilty to keep it .5 degrees split to the left and keeping the camber green and about the same on both sides then a toe adjustment and center the steering wheel adjustment and your golden 🏆💪🔧🚗🇺🇸
This is my first truck that I've kept after warranty... I'm no mechanic... Do i need an alignment after this fix? Will this be the fix for a 2012 450 duly? I don't need the AH answers that a few here spewed. Just need the info. TIA
I’m curious what your total caster was before the bushings? I just got an alignment, and it shows I have 3.1 on one side and 3.5 on the other. 2014 f350 with 60k miles. Started getting death wobble very randomly. About once a month or less. Replaced steering stabilizer and drag link bushing. Did it right after. Everything I read says to get caster closer to 2.5-3 but the alignment shows I’m already there…? Do I still add more?
Update* The bilstein stabilizer I installed was softer than factory and made things way worse. After replacing any joints that had any play in them, still had death wobble. Found ford updated the steering stabilizer for 11-16 trucks. Installed that. Much better but still there. installed the bushings. Adding about 1.5 degrees more caster and now drives great. Total caster is about (estimated) 4.48 left and 4.75 right Camber is +0.10 Spec is -0.05 to +0.90
Do you know if the 2020 F250 4x4 bushings are the same as the 2020 f250 two wheel drive I can’t find the bushing on eBay they are saying that the two wheel drive won’t fit my truck
I have a 24 and when I added 2.5 of caster I had a problem with vibrations in the passenger side axel. It turns out that the 24s have a “dummy hub” on the passenger side and not a standard manual locking hub like the 23s and older. Have you had any issues with vibrations or noises on the passenger side hub from adding caster?
@@spencerdaines8847 We are on the road now, in Flagstaff, and I didn't notice any vibration from the passenger side for the thousand miles or so from Tennessee. Did you try dialing it down a bit to see if it was still there? I really did like 1.5 positive on the trip, it felt like it made a difference on the new truck.
@@WeCanExploreIt The Napa & Amazon websites indicates that the linked bushing (from your pinned link) does not fit the 2024 F-350. Any thoughts on searching for the correct bushing?
Watched another video and did mine. Check alignment first. My 2010 was dead nominal at 200k with death wobble, so I was able to use 2.5° shims and all fixed. Not a hint of wobble starting, and my 5th wheel tracks true even in heavy wind. It was a major handful in wind before. 2.5° doesn't sound like much but it is huge. USE SOLID SHIMS unless something is wrong from factory... Too much potential for someone to screw it up with combo shims, it's hard enough for people to understand as it is. Didn't even bother to check after, runs like a dream, but I checked everything else first, it is all tight. I notice zero additional effort at low speeds. 2° may be enough for yours.
Nick, Did you label your before and after photos wrong? I thought you wanted more rake back after the bushing install. I am not seeing that in the photos as labeled.
Hey Steve, the photos are correct. What you're looking for is to pull back the top part of the hub toward the back of the vehicle. Since I only added 1.5 degrees, the movement is less pronounced, but if you look at the line in the pic, the top is farther back than the original. The picture actually looks like it's opposite rake, but when you put weight on the wheels, the "rake" is more like what you would see on a bike. Thanks!
His picture is deceiving as it shows a line on the caliper for the before and after pictures which in reality doesn’t show the actual relationship of the top and bottom ball joints. The top of the spindle is farther back than the bottom. The bushing moves the spindle an extra 1.5 degrees towards the back
I just did this on my ‘23 and it pulls hard to the left after install. Are you immediately getting it re-aligned after? It seems like your just dropping them in and driving away. What’s your thoughts?
I heard after you do this when you add caster it changes your axle swing as it leaves your axle tube and will eventually eat up your outer axle tube dust shield.
You are correct. On the older fords, mid 2000's we used a leaf spring shim that fit between the spring and axle. We usually put 6 degrees positive shim in to eliminate the wobble.
I have a 2012 450. Mine started at 90k. 5k in parts and labor. Still a vibration @55-65mph. It was seriously jumping before the other "fixes. " one of the fixes made it all worse. Drove it 2 miles away and sent it right back to shop. It's a real pain and I'm not a mechanic. Not sure I have the equipment to do this, but it looks easy enough if I can.
So what actually happenes to that bushing to cause the death wobble? Does it wear or turn some how? I have a 2015 F350......garage says everything is tight, but at 90kmh the wobble is violent!!! Good video!!
@@nazdackster then why wasnt it corrected, with a recall?? If its something as simple as a 35.00 part!! I know FORD have changed the part number on the steering dampener 3 or 4 times now and came out with bigger & beefier ones. Doing this they must have known something as well.
@@LKMKully I don't know, but I've worked with Ford engineering for years and they can take a long time to correct things. Certain design changes may be considered an admission of guilt and I believe there is pressure from above to insist the design is ok and prevent recalls. In cases like this where a cheap fix gets the job done, you're better off to take care of it yourself. That's what I did. And I'll tell you, most of the engineers are good or great, and very involved and interested. I haven't bought anything but Ford for years since working on projects with those guys, but I think ALL auto manufacturers suffer from this phenomenon. Plenty of guys know what to do and can't get it through the bureaucracy. Sad, but I get it.
Except possibility Tesla... Elon constantly applies really high pressure to never do dumb things, and if you already did, change design on the fly immediately. Great manufacturing guy.
@@LKMKully My theory on the newer models is there are two oscillations going on. One is steering wheel left-right, and once this has enough energy, it begins true death wobble, which is a self reinforcing oscillation of wheel hop and front end geometry. More caster should prevent both. At least it did on my 2010, but that style doesn't start with the higher frequency steering oscillation.
6000 miles and your CP4 went out. Did the dealer cover everything and did they give you any hassle? Asking because I just bought a new 2023 f350 with standard 6.7 and have 1600 miles on it.
How come at 2 minutes and 22 seconds into this video you're showing an original picture on the left side of the screen that actually shows Castor and on the right side of the screen you're showing zero caster. Was this just an error? Personally I like the fact that you're going a little bit light on the Caster but I have always, at least in the last 30 years or so always put about a half degree of negative camber on the vehicle. It reduces tire wear tremendously. When I did that on my 98 caravan, I was getting no unusual tire wear on the front of that vehicle and I was also getting about 3/4 of a mile per gallon better gas mileage. With some of the other tricks I did on the vehicle I was getting 31 1/2 Mi per gallon on a 1998 Caravan with a 3.8. And that was with zero toe and half of a degree negative camber. As for my earlier comment, the later picture actually shows Caster on the after photo. So apparently it was a mistake. I would love to have a diesel van. But I'm on a fixed income. That would give me all the room I need and the towing capacity.
Ok, but why didnt this happen from day one, when I purchased my F350? That's what puzzles me. Why take years to have this happen now? Those castor bushing dont wear.
I've never had it and never seen or known anyone that had it, until I did recently. I get it turning left and hitting a bump. I was going to rebuild the entire front end. While looking for a vid rebuilding the 06 f-250 6.0 I found this. Going to inspect everything and change the bushings at the next oil change in less than 500 miles. I can recreate the wobble so I should know in the next few weeks. Feel free to hit me up in a few months. All I am going to do is the bushings and try it. Not even going to get an alignment before driving it.
Yeah no, it seems you do not know what death wobble is. It is a rapid oscillation of the front end from side to side. Only occurs in linked coil spring suspensions, which the +05 SD have. The usual cause is the pan hard bar ends are worn/loose, however on my SD the tie rod ends wore out and mimicked death wobbble, the wheels could oscillate in certain situations. What you have done is slightly increase positive caster which increases the steering effort requried. The best thing you can do is keep the alighnment in Ford's specs and replace worn parts soon. The OEM joints do not have grease zerks, it is best to upgrade to aftermarket parts that are greasable.
You have to ask yourself WHY the rapid oscillation happens, that's the key. Worn linkages don't cause the oscillation, they give way to allow it to happen. Check out the other vid I did to explain the why.
@@WeCanExploreIt It is when you hit uneven bumps in the road. If the axle cannot move laterally the wobble does not, cannot, happen. An alignment is a whole lot of give and take and much of it is driver preference. There is zero issue with you getting your rides to handle like you want them to, however terminology matters. Just use a different term than 'death wobble', this is dw th-cam.com/video/ncTgYl7P_TE/w-d-xo.html
@@vincentpate9144 it's a caster issue at its core plain and simple. It's cool if you don't agree, lots of people don't agree which is why there are not really any videos saying what I'm saying. Still curious if you've ever tried adding caster when you saw the death wobble come in your shop. If you didn't, aren't you a little curious to see if that would have fixed it??
Hope this video was helpful! Let me know if you have any questions and I'll do my best to help!
Here are the LINKS:
NAPA Bushing (for 2023 Ford): www.napaonline.com/en/p/NCP2643953
AMAZON Bushing: amzn.to/44e93TG
I only see the bushing listed for 2x4 not 4x4. Do you find there is a difference? I noticed your white truck was 4x4. Thanks
@@jamoncito37 the bushing listed should be for the 4x4, the black truck was a 4x4 too. Thanks!
I ordered the ones off Amazon and didn’t get any directions where can I find that chart you had thanks Chris
I just picked up a 2024 F-350. This is so helpful! Thank you 😊
I guess you've seen videos of "experts" and "chassis engineers" replacing parts to resolve death wobble.
Anyway, respect for solving the actual problem where even the "experts" fail.
I just helped my brother through this, and thanks to this video, we got it fixed. His is a 2016 F-350 Super Duty Lariat with the 6.7L and replacing the drag link (which was bad at the pitman arm), the steering dampener, and the tracking bar did not solve it. We brought it back in the shop and did the bushings (and also discovered a bad 4WD locking hub assembly), and after replacing that and doing the bushings, the problem went away. I wanted to mention for those interested that the factory bushings were +.25 camber and +0.4 caster, which is not what I found trying to look up the factory specs. We used the same bushings mentioned in this video from NAPA. Keeping the camber at +0.25, we were unable to get the max caster these new bushings allow of 2.5°, it just wouldn't go in maxed out, so we went with +0.25/+2.0 and it easily fit. We should have tried 2.25°, but were tired of fighting with getting it in. 2° was enough to solve the problem. As for getting the factory ones out (Minnesota road salt), we had a heck of a time. You mention tapping on the ball joint stud with the castle nut backed to the top, we found that is not enough and should be the second step once the bushing is free of the knuckle. We hammered on the knuckle so hard that we deformed the outer quarter inch of it and decided to remove the vacuum line and heat the knuckle with an acetylene torch. Once we had it almost glowing, we sprayed WD-40 on the bushing while applying pressure. As the WD-40 cooled the bushing, we felt the slightest creek with every squirt. Trouble was, it took so much heating to get the knuckle hot that the bushing also got hot causing them both to expand. The WD-40 helped re-establish the temp difference contracting the bushing which let them come apart. Once the bushing started sliding out of the knuckle, we then started tapping on the ball joint stud/castle nut to free that from the bushing. The second one we heated too much and the heat caused the grease to come out of the ball joint, so be careful. We don't think we totally ruined it so my brother decided to use a grease injector through the rubber to put grease back in. It is a mighty fine balance between enough heat and pressure vs cooking out grease and snapping the bushing flange off. That part alone took us 6 hours. Good luck to the next person that has to do this! And thank you so very much for making this video!!!!
Thank you for the info. appreciate it brotha !!!
As someone who does alignments I’ve never seen this. Can you adjust the bushing with the tires on and weight of the vehicle on the front suspension (during the alignment)?
Thanks
I bought my 99 F250 brand new. 2wd, v10.
It just turned 117k miles. I know low miles.
I’ve had very lil problems with the truck over the 25 years.
Took it to a local mechanic to have some routine maintenance…
check brakes,
and whatnot.
Now I have the death wobble but my camber caster looks way different.
Now I have the death wobble
Hey man I swapped the bushing went got my 2013 F250 aligned and totally fixed my truck!! Thanks alot! Turns out being able to align the truck properly works! Thanks again!
Interesting. Well, Ford completely rebuilt my 2012 F-250SD 6.7 at 98,600 miles and so it was covered under warranty, however, it didn't last. Now at 180,000 I am once again exploring the fixes! That said, I would like to note that by replacing a set of tire each time I have addressed the wobble (horrendous), it completely eliminated the wobble until now. You did all the research and don't want to start over, so I am going to give your fix a try. Because to couple hundred more dollars, it is not going to break the bank! I'll let you know how it turns out!
Fingers crossed!
Thank you
I have recently put a 4 inch bds lift kit with radius arms in my truck. In the computer it shows my caster in spec, however; when I drive it pulls horribly to the right. I’ve heard of each ford having different specs from factory. Do you think the bushings could be the solution ? I’ve been to a few places that are able to get it right on the computer but pulls horrinky right. Everything is fine with lift and components.
THANK YOU for this video series! I have a 2006 F250 that I've had for 10 years. In Jan 2023 I put a set of like new, good used, goodyear tires on it. I don't drive it much as I have a company vehicle. 2 months later while coming down I-75 in N Florida, I hit a POT HOLE and that started my death wobble experiences. I figured I had knocked a wheel weight off the truck. It happened one more time on that trip. I had the balance checked and the tires are still perfectly balanced. A few more trips to N Florida and back from Tampa and I just avoided as many potholes as possible and have not had the DEATH Wobble again, until last month, June of 2024. I going about 70MPH, in the center lane, It was SO BAD that from the center lane that the truck was going for the center jersey wall/wire and I couldn't steer it away from it going there, I HAD to hit the brake HARD to at least slow the impact, and FORTUNATELY, as soon as the truck slowed under 55MPH, the DEATH WOBBLE stopped and I merely missed the wall/wire by about 1 foot. Since then, I stepped up my research on the DEATH WOOBLE. LOTS of videos on the band-aid fix of adding steering dampeners. That didn't seem to be the fix in my eyes AT ALL, so I kept researching and have FINALLY stumbled on your videos and this REALLY REALLY MAKES SENSE! I am ordering the bushings from Amazon and will be replacing them next week. I will try to come back here with an update. Again, THANKS for your videos on this and nice job on the shameless plugs in your videos. Good luck on your internet ventures.
Thanks for the kind words. Glad to do it!
Please report back, glad you found the real solution!
6 months later, did the amazon bushings work for your truck ?
@@brianblithe2271 Adding caster solves this problem.
Thank you so much for this video. I’ve been having the death wobble on my 2014 f350 dually. Have replaced the stabilizer and that only helped minimally. Not much play in other steering components. Was about to purchase all new components for the front end but will try this first. Again, thank you.
How did it turn out for you?
Hey dana, 5 months later, how did changing the bushings work for the death wobble ?
As a former Belle Tire mechanic and alignment tech this video is great. I always installed them on the rack. This will not solve worn parts, but Fords were notorious for poor OEM alignment specs. I remember 6 degrees of positive camber on the vans, terrible suspentuon design and no adjustability. Bravo
These have always been adjustable. It's done the same way you adjust camber on a 18 wheeler or an A model. They are bent with proper tooling to achieve this result.
Not adjustable? He just adjusted his and showed how, in this video?
Dude, you killed this video. Amazing job. Thank you thank you for this!
Boop,Boop!
I subscribed.
I started this video, left to go watch the other video and now I'm back to watch this one.
I did thousands of these at the shop I worked at. They claimed I was the only one who could fix death wobble and not eat up the tires. I was one of the few that could tell the body shop how much and where to pull the frame so normal alignments could be accomplished. I made cars that dealers and several other shops could not go straight and not wear tires. Best one was a lexus that was in litigation because it could not be aligned by 15 alignment shops including 3 dealers. The lawyer was mad that I fixed it. Problem isn't they couldn't fix them, being on flat rate pay prevented them from putting in the time necessary to doing the job right. It's why parts they get paid to replace sometimes never get installed despite the customer still paying for it, and why good techs are leaving the field.
Thank you! I am retired from the biz and green bands on a computer screen is so far from what makes a truly correct alignment.
On your original video of fixing the death wobble, you mentioned that it needed to be set at 3 degrees positive.
I am currently trying to find one for a 2011 f350.
The closest I can find is up to 2.6 degrees, and there are so many different ones.
Call the ones on line and talk to parts store clerks and noone can tell me exactly which one I need.
How did you establish which one is correct for your job?
Most alignment shops will not align your truck. If you have those on there they want to go back with a solid bushing. Because those adjustable bushings move and I cost $500 to do an alignment on one of those trucks. I charge labor to take the bushings out put them back in and then do a heavy duty alignment about five $600. It’s crazy.
The alignment shop I took my 1995 4x4 to, told me it was very close to spec but they could align it if I insisted. I don't think they intended on doing this the hard way... If I recall, they mentioned an adjustable bushing. Well, I opted to leave as-is, it's never had any issues and has never been adjusted. I think that's no coincidence.
Awesome video. Had the DW a couple times on my 2017 with only 10k miles. Ford put a new stabilizer on, and so far so good, but if it happens again I will be installing these bushings!
The stabilizer is a bandaid for DW, you need to check your upper track bar bushing and ad caster to your axle to fix it right.
@@iddddaduncan Thanks, good information video!
I have a 2011 right side has 4.0 positive castor the left side has 4.4 negative castor can I adjust just the left side? Thanks Great video sometimes I hate these trucks.
Your most positive while keeping the camber green and and cross caster split not more then 1.0 degrees about .5 or so to keep it driving straight on most roads road crown requires .5 degree lower caster on the left side if your split is to high it will pull to the lowest side ford had a bad batch of steering stablizers a few years back caused excessive death wobble in most of the big trucks reason for the recall to replace them, you video is good you have the right idea but i would recommend letting a professional handle the fine tunning put them in. fine save some labor providing there's enough ajustabilty to keep it .5 degrees split to the left and keeping the camber green and about the same on both sides then a toe adjustment and center the steering wheel adjustment and your golden 🏆💪🔧🚗🇺🇸
This is my first truck that I've kept after warranty... I'm no mechanic...
Do i need an alignment after this fix? Will this be the fix for a 2012 450 duly?
I don't need the AH answers that a few here spewed. Just need the info.
TIA
I’m curious what your total caster was before the bushings?
I just got an alignment, and it shows I have 3.1 on one side and 3.5 on the other. 2014 f350 with 60k miles. Started getting death wobble very randomly. About once a month or less. Replaced steering stabilizer and drag link bushing. Did it right after.
Everything I read says to get caster closer to 2.5-3 but the alignment shows I’m already there…? Do I still add more?
Update*
The bilstein stabilizer I installed was softer than factory and made things way worse. After replacing any joints that had any play in them, still had death wobble. Found ford updated the steering stabilizer for 11-16 trucks. Installed that. Much better but still there. installed the bushings. Adding about 1.5 degrees more caster and now drives great.
Total caster is about (estimated)
4.48 left and 4.75 right
Camber is +0.10
Spec is -0.05 to +0.90
Do you know if the 2020 F250 4x4 bushings are the same as the 2020 f250 two wheel drive I can’t find the bushing on eBay they are saying that the two wheel drive won’t fit my truck
And where did you get an Express? Never saw them sold in CA.
Great video! Now solve the hop that happens from 45-50mph!
Check rear drums if equipped. Mine weren't balanced ri g t
This guy is good
My brother’s truck has death wobble, I’m going to try this and see if this fixes it. The front end may also be worn, but I’m going to try this first.
Hey brotha, did you try this fix for the death wobble, and what year/model is your brothers truck ?
I have a 24 and when I added 2.5 of caster I had a problem with vibrations in the passenger side axel. It turns out that the 24s have a “dummy hub” on the passenger side and not a standard manual locking hub like the 23s and older. Have you had any issues with vibrations or noises on the passenger side hub from adding caster?
I haven't noticed any vibrations yet, but I only added 1.5 to the 24. What speeds are you noticing the vibration? Thanks for the heads up BTW
From 5mph +
@@spencerdaines8847 We are on the road now, in Flagstaff, and I didn't notice any vibration from the passenger side for the thousand miles or so from Tennessee. Did you try dialing it down a bit to see if it was still there? I really did like 1.5 positive on the trip, it felt like it made a difference on the new truck.
@@WeCanExploreIt The Napa & Amazon websites indicates that the linked bushing (from your pinned link) does not fit the 2024 F-350. Any thoughts on searching for the correct bushing?
So how does adding positive caster alter tire wear and does it handle the same on ice?
Caster is a "non-wear" adjustment!
Im looking at doing casters for my f350 diesel 2009. My local store only has a 2.0 would that be ok?
I would think +2 would be a good place to land.
Watched another video and did mine. Check alignment first. My 2010 was dead nominal at 200k with death wobble, so I was able to use 2.5° shims and all fixed. Not a hint of wobble starting, and my 5th wheel tracks true even in heavy wind. It was a major handful in wind before. 2.5° doesn't sound like much but it is huge. USE SOLID SHIMS unless something is wrong from factory... Too much potential for someone to screw it up with combo shims, it's hard enough for people to understand as it is. Didn't even bother to check after, runs like a dream, but I checked everything else first, it is all tight. I notice zero additional effort at low speeds. 2° may be enough for yours.
2006 F250 FX 4x4 v10 extra cab 8ft bed. Death wable is so Bad. Will it fix
It's definitely worth a shot!
Nick, Did you label your before and after photos wrong? I thought you wanted more rake back after the bushing install. I am not seeing that in the photos as labeled.
Hey Steve, the photos are correct. What you're looking for is to pull back the top part of the hub toward the back of the vehicle. Since I only added 1.5 degrees, the movement is less pronounced, but if you look at the line in the pic, the top is farther back than the original. The picture actually looks like it's opposite rake, but when you put weight on the wheels, the "rake" is more like what you would see on a bike. Thanks!
His picture is deceiving as it shows a line on the caliper for the before and after pictures which in reality doesn’t show the actual relationship of the top and bottom ball joints. The top of the spindle is farther back than the bottom. The bushing moves the spindle an extra 1.5 degrees towards the back
I just did this on my ‘23 and it pulls hard to the left after install. Are you immediately getting it re-aligned after? It seems like your just dropping them in and driving away. What’s your thoughts?
7:35
Did you not watch the video?
I heard after you do this when you add caster it changes your axle swing as it leaves your axle tube and will eventually eat up your outer axle tube dust shield.
You are correct. On the older fords, mid 2000's we used a leaf spring shim that fit between the spring and axle. We usually put 6 degrees positive shim in to eliminate the wobble.
@@alanhall4226I have a 2012 450... should this be done instead?
Both casters need to be replaced I’m assuming?
Yes, I would do both.
Great video! What part number do you get from napa?🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
Do you do this to both tires on the front?
Yes. You do it to both sides. Then get it aligned to fix any toe issues and verify the caster/camber.
I have a 2020 F45 and have never had the wobble issue. Maybe a 450 is different, also know a lot of guys with Superduties that haven’t had this issue.
I have a 2012 450. Mine started at 90k. 5k in parts and labor. Still a vibration @55-65mph. It was seriously jumping before the other "fixes. " one of the fixes made it all worse. Drove it 2 miles away and sent it right back to shop. It's a real pain and I'm not a mechanic. Not sure I have the equipment to do this, but it looks easy enough if I can.
Hey please help. How did you get the truck aligned
So what actually happenes to that bushing to cause the death wobble? Does it wear or turn some how?
I have a 2015 F350......garage says everything is tight, but at 90kmh the wobble is violent!!!
Good video!!
The design spec is simply wrong and has been forever. The only way to fix is with more caster. If it is in-spec, it is high risk.
@@nazdackster then why wasnt it corrected, with a recall?? If its something as simple as a 35.00 part!!
I know FORD have changed the part number on the steering dampener 3 or 4 times now and came out with bigger & beefier ones. Doing this they must have known something as well.
@@LKMKully I don't know, but I've worked with Ford engineering for years and they can take a long time to correct things. Certain design changes may be considered an admission of guilt and I believe there is pressure from above to insist the design is ok and prevent recalls. In cases like this where a cheap fix gets the job done, you're better off to take care of it yourself. That's what I did. And I'll tell you, most of the engineers are good or great, and very involved and interested. I haven't bought anything but Ford for years since working on projects with those guys, but I think ALL auto manufacturers suffer from this phenomenon. Plenty of guys know what to do and can't get it through the bureaucracy. Sad, but I get it.
Except possibility Tesla... Elon constantly applies really high pressure to never do dumb things, and if you already did, change design on the fly immediately. Great manufacturing guy.
@@LKMKully My theory on the newer models is there are two oscillations going on. One is steering wheel left-right, and once this has enough energy, it begins true death wobble, which is a self reinforcing oscillation of wheel hop and front end geometry. More caster should prevent both. At least it did on my 2010, but that style doesn't start with the higher frequency steering oscillation.
How can find out how much caster to give my 2010 f250 ?
Carli says 2 degree for leveled and 1 degree for 4-5" lift, If I recall correctly. I just ordered 2degree for my leveled truck
6000 miles and your CP4 went out. Did the dealer cover everything and did they give you any hassle? Asking because I just bought a new 2023 f350 with standard 6.7 and have 1600 miles on it.
Scott the HP4 went out on the white truck, the 2020 with 110k
Ok my misunderstanding, either way that’s an expensive repair bill.
Will you put in a disaster prevention kit on the new truck? That’s one of the first things I did on my SD.
I cannot find the links to purchase the bushings.
Please help…
Pinned comment on the video is where the links are. Thanks !
Thanks for sharing. Like 634
What are you asking for the van
How come at 2 minutes and 22 seconds into this video you're showing an original picture on the left side of the screen that actually shows Castor and on the right side of the screen you're showing zero caster. Was this just an error?
Personally I like the fact that you're going a little bit light on the Caster but I have always, at least in the last 30 years or so always put about a half degree of negative camber on the vehicle. It reduces tire wear tremendously. When I did that on my 98 caravan, I was getting no unusual tire wear on the front of that vehicle and I was also getting about 3/4 of a mile per gallon better gas mileage. With some of the other tricks I did on the vehicle I was getting 31 1/2 Mi per gallon on a 1998 Caravan with a 3.8. And that was with zero toe and half of a degree negative camber.
As for my earlier comment, the later picture actually shows Caster on the after photo. So apparently it was a mistake.
I would love to have a diesel van. But I'm on a fixed income. That would give me all the room I need and the towing capacity.
but didn't it turn when you tight it it looked like it
Ok, but why didnt this happen from day one, when I purchased my F350? That's what puzzles me. Why take years to have this happen now? Those castor bushing dont wear.
2023 f350
My death wobble is the worst I’ve ever experienced in 50yrs!!!!
Love the truck hate the death wobble!!!!
Ford death wobble has been a thing for -- well since blue oval designed a front end.
1 1/8" Nut? I believe it is a 3/4" nut which takes a 1 1/8" socket.
hello
Do I replace both driver and passenger side bushings?? Thanks in advance 🫡
r u there
Can't find part number on either video description..
Found it lol
Wonder why I've never had the death wobble ? Nobody I know in real life has but I see it all over the internet. Why do some have and some dont?
I've never had it and never seen or known anyone that had it, until I did recently. I get it turning left and hitting a bump. I was going to rebuild the entire front end. While looking for a vid rebuilding the 06 f-250 6.0 I found this. Going to inspect everything and change the bushings at the next oil change in less than 500 miles.
I can recreate the wobble so I should know in the next few weeks. Feel free to hit me up in a few months. All I am going to do is the bushings and try it. Not even going to get an alignment before driving it.
@@yancywagner3146
Any news?
@@yancywagner3146I've got a 2012... other than the damn DEF system, this is the only thing I hate about this truck.
Yeah no, it seems you do not know what death wobble is. It is a rapid oscillation of the front end from side to side. Only occurs in linked coil spring suspensions, which the +05 SD have. The usual cause is the pan hard bar ends are worn/loose, however on my SD the tie rod ends wore out and mimicked death wobbble, the wheels could oscillate in certain situations. What you have done is slightly increase positive caster which increases the steering effort requried. The best thing you can do is keep the alighnment in Ford's specs and replace worn parts soon. The OEM joints do not have grease zerks, it is best to upgrade to aftermarket parts that are greasable.
You have to ask yourself WHY the rapid oscillation happens, that's the key. Worn linkages don't cause the oscillation, they give way to allow it to happen. Check out the other vid I did to explain the why.
@@WeCanExploreIt It is when you hit uneven bumps in the road. If the axle cannot move laterally the wobble does not, cannot, happen. An alignment is a whole lot of give and take and much of it is driver preference. There is zero issue with you getting your rides to handle like you want them to, however terminology matters. Just use a different term than 'death wobble', this is dw th-cam.com/video/ncTgYl7P_TE/w-d-xo.html
I agree 1000 percent.
@@vincentpate9144 it's a caster issue at its core plain and simple. It's cool if you don't agree, lots of people don't agree which is why there are not really any videos saying what I'm saying. Still curious if you've ever tried adding caster when you saw the death wobble come in your shop. If you didn't, aren't you a little curious to see if that would have fixed it??
I challenge you to add negative Caster. Your opinion. I made a living for 25 yrs and retired and I never fixed it with an alignment
The real fix is junk that pos and buy the chevy or gmc.
will this work on a 2012 f250 2wd? please advice me, my truck is doing the death wooble real bad
This guy is good