Follow Louis Rossmann's journey in pushing hard for RtR lobbying. The corporate anti-RtR lobbyists are ridiculous and disgusting. He is helping us sway legislators a lot. :)
behexen250 Because Ford just changes out the damper and in the TSB they actually want you to reduce the caster which to me makes no sense. And the damper they put on is on back order, so that’s why. I just added 2.5 degrees to one today installed Fords damper they recommend and it still has death wobble.
dsruddell yeah ball joints have been done once at 250k, but technically that’s a suspension part. I will admit the gearbox does have a little play, but not bad. Other than that though, all original.
I did alignments for 17 years. Fixed a lot of problems by going outside of specs. I found most “death wobble” issues are the track bar. Also with that high caster he is going to watch for edge wear, mostly on the right tire. Full lock turns really lays the tires over. Rotate the tires before they setup a pattern To get the most life out of them. Great video, spot on.
I did +2° caster on my 2010, it totally ELIMINATED my issue. I've hit huge bumps after and it did not even think about oscillating. Huge win. Started at nominal, now at or slightly over top spec.
I've installed quite a few of those bushings over the course of my career. You definitely need a good understanding of alignments, and how those bushings affect your specs, otherwise you'll be chasing your tail trying to get the alignment dialed in. A quality alignment rack definitely helps as well. Personally, I enjoy doing front end alignments. It's definitely a valuable skill to have as a mechanic.
My DW story... I have a 93 Grand Cherokee. At around 30,000, it started the death wobble. I have a car lift and have done my own mechanic work all my life. So I figured I have this. Up it went and I did everything I have done to hundreds of vehicles for years to check all suspension and front drivetrain. Everything seemed tight and unworn. My wife's dad bought the Jeep new and passed shortly after. Her mother drove the jeep to the store and back till she passed and we inherited it. I know the thing was not put in four wheel drive very many times in it's life. So basically what I am saying is the Jeep was just like new when we got it with less than 20,000 miles. Back to the story of dw. I couldn't find anything wrong so I took it to an alignment shop that I have used for years and have always had good service from them. They couldn't find anything wrong so we drove it up the road. At 45 mph it went into the dw. The guy said he had never seen anything like this. He checked everything and did an alignment on it and it still, dw... After several attempts, he said he determined the track bar was the problem. $180. later he said it was fixed. I picked it up and on the way home it was still wobbling. Went right back and got my money back and found another shop. Same thing, not a clue what caused it but said I needed to replace all my bushings and tie rods. I asked why and they said they were all worn enough that they were all causing the problem. I didn't buy it. Now if I would go from 40 to 60 under heavy throttle, I could get past the wobble and it would run all day. But between 45 and 60 it would almost always wobble and violently!!! Eventually I replaced every part that can be replaced including tires twice because they would wear out fast. 4 or 5 shops tried to fix it and no one knew what to do. After putting up with the problem for several years and spending probably $2,000, I was thinking about what was going on when it was wobbling. I had even stuck my head out the window to watch the tire. What I decided was the toe in was causing the problem. I know it was aligned to specs at least 5 times but something was still not right! I got my tape measure out and a couple of pieces of angle iron and set the toe in to less than 1/8th of an inch. It was over 3/8ths when I first checked it. It has now been over 100,000 miles later and never once have I experienced the DW! I figured out the geometry of these suspensions cause this problem when they get to a certain harmonics. With the toe in adjusted in too far, the left tire will try to go right at a certain harmonic and when it gives in to traction making it slip, then the right tire will be trying to go left and at just the right harmonics the fight for traction gets to be more than the tires can support and they begin fighting and they start the wobble. Don't know if this is a good explanation, but when I took almost all the toe in out of my alignment, it fixed the problem. Even with 31 inch tires the wobble never came back. I now have over 160,000 and it runs and drives like a new one.... Almost.... lol...
Thanks for this video! 2019 F250 here and I didn’t have death wobble, but I absolutely hated the way it felt over Minnesotas crappy roads. This was magnified after going from 31” tires to 35’s. I added the dual stabilizers and couldn’t be happier with it. Money very well spent!
This is the clearest, most direct explanation of wheel alignment I’ve seen on youtube. I don’t drive trucks but this applied to my cars. Thanks for posting.
Bill I never understood this death wobble. The first time I felt it was in my dads 1976 ford. It’s not a new problem. I just think now that these truck are so heavy and we are hauling such heavy items now we are putting more wear on the steering items. I have never had a problem figuring this problem out in the past. Thanks for explaining this. I think everyone is looking for major play. It does not take much.
Ibwant to further add this us extremely true.. good luck finding a alignment shop that will do this work!! I had a twin I beam fors that Ibhad to do this myself to fix the caster..
If you are old enough you will remember that tie rod ends and ball joints started failing between 40,000 and 60,000 miles. That used to be the life expectancy of these parts.
2017 Super Duty. 25800 miles and this just happened to me. 70 mph on the highway I hit some minor road roughness associated with a bridge expansion joint. The ensuing vibration was incredible, I had to slow to around 20 mph to get it under control. Thankfully I didn't get rear ended and my wife was saying pull over we blew a tire! This truck drives smooth and doesn't vibrate or wander at all. I can see a worn or loose front end causing issues but my truck doesn't exhibit any symptoms of worn parts. To me that makes this all the more scary.
Track bar bushing and ball joint replacement (I reused the bar and just replaced the ball joint) and tire balance solved my severe case of death wobble in my 2017 super duty. You have to check everything, even the smallest play and right amount of resonance will induce death wobble in these trucks.
Great job.. you are very knowledgeable my man! I’ll will be in touch to get my 2019 F250 upgraded! Got the Death Wobble yesterday after 18k on it. Dealership changed steering dampener but it’s going to wear out again I’m sure! Have a great day gentlemen!
This video is very informative, I am a ASE certified front-end and brake specialist now for 40 years! ....I have come across this problem many many times! And due to the front suspension Geometry, and Alignment specifications do not help with the Death wobble ! The only thing that I disagree with this video? Is when he says that he likes to get the toe closer to 0 as Opposed to 1/16 or even some trucks take 2/16 toe in. The reason why there is toe in , because while your accelerating the torque of the vehicle plus the weigh and forward momentum will actually cause the toe to toe out to zero ! Of course as parts wear out it gets worse! Also toe out will cause your steering wheel to shake at certain speeds and also do what is known as hunting the road .So that's why toe in is very important as well as more caster, and tight parts! Be safe out there, and Good luck!😉😮💨
Par for the 21st Century course, unfortunately ... and things aren't looking any better out there. I'd say, they're going to get worse, based on what I'm hearing and reading about so far.
@@SmittySmithsonite this is ford being ford. There's a reason why you don't see that many 90s Ford's and below. Ford cheapen on components always since the Model T. But now they don't let you repair them like the model T was meant to.
I've been in Fords, GMs, and Isuzus all with this problem over the past 20 years. No one at any of the dealerships was ever able to fix it. This video is interesting- thanks for posting.
I worked in front end for 37 years, and fixed a LOT of Fords, AND GM trucks, with offset bushings and upgraded steering bits. I always told the customers, “when the alignment specs are as wide as a football field, it’s always ‘within factory (shit) spec’. That doesn’t mean it’s RIGHT. They were always happy to spend a buck or two to make it drive nicely.
I just purchased a 2017 f250 on January 24 was at the dealer for 22 days. They put a steering shock on it, rotors, and four brand new tires. Also aligned it within spec which is the whole problem. Not enough caster. I will have my dual steering stabilizer set up tomorrow and aligned this week by an independent shop. I will let you know the out come. Keep up the great videos!
Good video! The most common thing I have found that adds to the DEATH WOBBLES, the track rod, lower bushing, it is a ball joint. Mounted to the Axel. The joint gets loose and allows the front axle to move sideways. This rod parallels the steering linkage that goes from the steering box to the steering knuckle on the passenger side. Just have somebody wiggle the steering wheel back and forth and you'll see it move if it's bad. I have changed dozens of them before I retired from our local power company.
Caster is the culprit for sure. And to add to that alot of people install a leveling kit on the superduty trucks without lowering the rear of the control arm which eliminates ALL of the caster.
Dear Powerstrokehelp, I have two Super Dutty F250 one 2013 and 2015, I have been suffering from dead wobble since first year, the steering shock absorber kit from rough country did not corrected it just controlled, I installed the caster shims..... this is a huge difference !!!! you are 100% right, this corrected the dead wobble in 95% I still have some minor dead wobble at around 120 km per hour (75 miles) in rough streets but I think with proper alignment and changing all parts with wear it will be corrected 100%, thanks !
My 2017 f250 will be going back to the dealer for the 7th time for the death wobble. My local dealer has been great. Ford has not been able to come up with a fix. It has 20k on it. Started at 11k, 13 months after I bought it . 1 month beyond the lemon law. Have a pending lawsuit against Ford. just an update. My attorney was notified by Ford that they will be doing a buyback on my truck. They initially said they wanted one more shot at fixing it and then change their mind the very next day.
My 17 350 developed the wobble after I put a OneUpOffroad 4" lift (premium trust me) on it 9 months after I bought it. Did the castor adjustment to factory specs. Still persisted. Put a PMF dual fox stabilizer and Carli track bar (premium again). Problem solved. Wish this video was made 2 years earlier. For once I am ahead of the pros and learning curve. By the way the OUO lift is a 3 point link setup which is perfect for adjusting castor angle.
This is the best explanation of this problem/fix...Now, I feel comfortable buying a new F250 knowing this. Nice job sir!!! I wish you were closer, I'd just bring the truck in and have it done from the start.
I had a brand new e250 van had death wobble even when new they did tires and steering box they never fixed it I think it was an 05 or 06. Thank goodness we have guys like you and others that figure these things out.
Glad it drives good. I am surprised it doesn't pull, though. When I was doing alignments, your final caster readings would tell me it pulls left. Vehicles pull towards the side with less caster, one degree split is a lot. I always aimed for no more than half degree spit. Good call on the caster being the big issue. I have been telling my Dodge and Ford customers for years to tell the alignment shop to dial in as much caster as possible. I wish I had my own alignment equipment, you're right, somebody that knows how to adjust a straight axle are rare. A customer willing to pay what it takes to fight a straight axle are even more rare.
Its not international at all its Ford to the T. It's been pure ford sence 2011. Once the 6.7 came out international stopped all thing with for light duty trucks and even f350s are all ford
Your channel is amazing! I have been a subscriber for a long time and this is without question THE PLACE to come to learn everything there is to know about Ford Super Duty trucks. Ford should send some of their engineers to LEARN FROM YOU GUYS!
Just as many people do not really understand the alignment and how to make it better, tire "SPECIALIST" and tire shop foremans/managers always over inflate tires. When I get new tires I immediately go to a car wash with wet concrete or other concrete surface that is wet or can be wetted (wetted is a word). I roll the front tires on the wet surface and back out so the tires leave a wet pattern on the dry part of the concrete surface and measure with a tape the tread width on the tire to the wet spot on the concrete. The wet mark will be narrower so I begin deflating 10 psi at at time until the wet mark matches the width of the actual tire width (this means rolling back and forth several times preferably making new wet tracks each time) then take another 5-10 psi to make sure the shoulder of the tire gets about the same amount of weight load from shoulder to shoulder. Make sure to record the corrected psi to bring your tires back to YOUR INDIVIDUAL spec when you periodically check your tire pressure. Then I repeat the process for the rear tires. Unless the front and rear tires are carrying the same amount of weight, the rear tires may require less pressure to place the entire surface of the tire tread on the pavement. This "trick" process makes the truck feel so much smoother and safer going down the road even on washboard dirt roads like my area. Driving in the rain or snow is much safer also. This is because the tire is softer and way more rubber is the ground. The truck will not hop around on dirt roads as much or in my case, seems like not at all. I have had my truck up 60 MPH on our washboard dirt roads with no hopping; however you must be mindful/watchful for all kinds of critters running across the road so slow down to 35 or maybe 40 because you might have to brake. With the tires aired up to MAXIMUM LOAD like the side wall says the center of the tire is rounded and the tire wears in the center minimizing tire wear and mileage to about 50 - 60% of it's useful mileage thereby costing way more money. If your new tires have sharp shoulder lugs or sharp edges (mud/snow tires) the process is easy and accurate. If the shoulders are rounded you can get rather accurate. In time the shoulders will become sharper as the tire wears. You still must keep on eye on the tread wear to see if you need to air up or down. When carrying a heavier loads go through process again to so you have the correct PSI for the extra load on the rear tires. You ought to check the front tires also. I hope this helps. You might Feel free to try the "trick" for yourself and experience a smoother, softer ride, and longer tire wear. Be safe people...
Same thing can be done with sidewalk chalk. Draw a heavy line across the tread and move one tire revolution and look at what gets worn off and adjust the pressure until all is evenly worn.
Just wet, not wetted, you had it right. You can do this with chalk. Bunch of off road guys do this to get their ideal air pressure, especially in an unladen truck where the rear is lighter.
I have a 2019 F250 SD with 35k miles and it has a death wobble. It's a certified pre-owned vehicle and I knew about this issue before I bought it. I was going to take it to a dealer since it is still under factory bumper to bumper so now after watching your vid I think I'll wait until I can get the truck on the lift and check for play. Great info here, thank you.
The new TSB for this problem list many of the things you are talking about. Adding the castor is one of them. You are way ahead of them. Keep up the good work.
I’ve got a 2012 that had a horrible death wobble. My tires were fairly wore ,but not shot. It didn’t take any braking to cause it, only bumps at highway speed. Scary as heck. My dealership replaced all of the front end parts under warranty. Probably only because I have a great relationship with the mechanic. Now I have 240000 and no problems since. Nock on wood. Death wobble is no joke!
I have had great success in eliminating Death Wobble simply by upgrading the stock steering Stabilizer with Fox brand unit. Very easy to install using very basic tools.
We need more folks that think like you when it comes to liability. Customers might not like it but the end result is a job that will be safe for everyone as your family is on the road with these vehicles. I had a tech friend that had a slogan on his box. No custom cobentery
My brother was the assembly alignment expert at KTP for years. Home of Super Duty. Kentucky Truck Plant. He was the last one to touch the trucks before they were loaded for delivery.
I wonder if Ford's weaksauce caster spec is to make up for those heavier parts in the front end and no upgraded Power steering gear or pump. Either that or they're tired of getting complaints from customers that they're too hard to turn. I really appreciate the time you take in these videos to break down a problem. You do an excellent job going over the solutions to a customer issue.
Rebuilt my 2006 F250 4x4 front end at 200,000 miles ball joints where gone,I did all of it because I figure its a 400,000 mile truck.Look at it as half life.Replace all components and reset the clock for another 200,000 miles.Working on US Air Force aircraft taught me this.Don't wait to break down on the road,if you have got good service from an item,but its got some miles on it change it out.
Which dealer is that u went to? I have a 1997 f250 and it JUST started happening and I doubt they'll fix it for free. Ford is sketchy, I'd never buy a Ford again. They melted down the MAF sensor bolts so they can't be replaced without replacing the entire housing (makes the job harder to discourage DIYers from cleaning the MAF themselves which should be as simply as screw driver and 4 minutes), u need a special tools to replace fuel filters, they make it hard for the natural consumer to be happy. The Ford dealers can't even give me my cars make and model despite having the vin. They always say they honestly are not sure which trim it is 😂
On Ford technical service bulletin # 18-2268 they are calling out to reduce the caster on both front wheels without exceeding the caster factor limits. Bill is saying to increase it past the factory limits which would involve purchasing two new casters shims and voiding your warranty.
Ford has told us on the new trucks to add alot of caster so when I align the new 6.7 trucks I put cam acentric to give it the most caster as possible to help and combat death wobble
I'll never forget getting a $100 tip from doing uppers/lowers and alignment on a 92-96 4WD F-350. I told the guy I was just doing my job, but he appreciated the extra effort put into his vehicle. There's more ingenuity, work and magic that goes into doing a proper alignment than most think. It is my specialty.
I can tell exactly why, because that vehicle that you have has grease zerks on it. and these vehicles don't when they did away with grease zerks and a regiment of lubrication. that is when these problems started happening. I can guarantee that this problem would be reduced or eliminated. if they would put grease zerks on these vehicles no doubt.
Thank you Bill for your expert explanation of the steering linkages and proper alignment on these trucks. Mine is wandering and has some vibration at 62-66 mph but no death wobble. Your opinion without looking at the truck would be appreciated, as I'm not anywhere near your area
I am having the same problem on a 2022 with about 1300 miles at any speed over about 60 on the freeway for one or two seconds. I am wondering if this will just get worst over time and miles?
It's usually the tie rod end on track bar. Look at the jeeps, same common issue. Caster the key. Makes sense, good explanation. Gonna have to find a couple of those offset bushings to throw in my tremor when I get it in a few days. I'll be checking mine out and see where my caster is at.
If you have the "death wobble" on this type of steering setup, look at the stabilizing shock. It is a no brainer to check tie rods and pitman and idler arms and brakes but after hundreds of jeep and fords have come into my shop with this problem, the stabilizing shock is far and away the biggest culprit. I never understood why dealers had a blind spot for the issue, kind of like chevy trucks with their shitty racks, that issue was obvious on the first customer that came into my shop after being stonewalled by the dealer. Keep up the good work on this channel. Edit: Having someone turn the wheel while you watch it with the tires on the ground will exaggerate the movement of the steering components, and worn tie rods and pitman arms/idler arms will be more identifiable.
I had the DW at 30k miles from hitting a pothole about 45-60mph. I did 2 things to fix it: #1) Like Bill advises, I put in the PMF Dual Steering Stabilizer Bracket on my stock ride truck (and I replaced the stock steering stabilizer). #2) I reduced my factory castor from 4.5 to about 2.5. (However, I probably should have left the castor alone. And I suspect the new steering stabilizer set up alone would have been enough to fix the problem). I have 60k on my truck and the DW has not returned. Also, I addressed the problem quickly so it wouldn't destroy my whole front end.
Keep it up! Your the smartest person I've ever seen on TH-cam. No joke, I just subscribed. I just wanted to know what was causing deathwobble. I don't own a truck and never heard of this problem till recently. I know everything I wanted to know. Thx.
I have an 09 F250 Super Duty, 6” lift kit and 35” tires. Been great so far, but I do get oscillation on a certain road, but only the last 2 weeks. It has a rough country dual steering stabilizer that is hydraulic and is now 6-7 years old. Recently installed the Bilstein 5100 shocks, and yesterday ordered the Bilstein dual stabilizer with monotube gas shocks instead of hydraulics. Should make a world of difference. Definitely recommend the Bilstein stuff.
What most folks overlook is the tires! They wear uneven on these trucks unless rotated regularly. Once they are out of balance the death wobble starts. Typically suspension has little to do with it. Steering dampers only mask the problem. Doesn’t fix it. Get some good tires and rotate them regularly.
I work in a city fleet garage and we have hundreds of F250 350 450 . all diesel's and every now and then i get one with the death wobble .First off to dealer if it's under warranty. 2nd we pick it up 2 week later and still same condition after they changed p\s box ...I put two new tire's on front ,put a heavy duty steering dampener on that was way better then stock ,and did a alignment .D-Wobble was gone .2018 .with 19k ...
Guess I’ve lucked out. Fingers crossed 128k tow and feed cattle daily with it. Hasn’t had a single part replaced. Drives to town 75 mph straight and smooth as it did the day I drove it off the lot
I have a 2019 with only 16,000 miles of gentle use. Experienced death wobble yesterday and had to come to a complete stop on the highway before I could regain control.
Mines at 20k miles and just got the wobble today haha felt it the past few months about to do it but today was the full wobble. Calling the dealer tomorrow
i bought a malibu certified car tires were low pressure , needed antifreeze needed brake fluid, 15% oil life front left had a squeek sqawk i checked it out myself ,ball joint and tie rod ends had to be replaced im sure glad they do a through check
A competent ford dealer would have no issue fixing these , there’s even a bulletin to add more caster as you did. Replacing worn tie rods is normal business and then one more to not overlook would be the ball joint on the end of the track bar. Many are fixed just with that
The TSB Ford released was to lower caster due to the fight to center that the vehicle experiences when it hits a bump in the road. Current TSB is to replace the damper with a updated unit. Seen trucks on the PDI test drive experience a wobble. New truck with under 10 miles. Everything tight. Everything new. Caster at 5.7 and 6.2 degrees respectively. Replaced the damper as per TSB. No change. Aired the front tires to 80 psi, and it got better, but problem is still there. Nobody has found the true problem as far as I know. Seen a lot of 15-20k mile trucks come in with loose parts, but I wouldn't say that they are the causal part, because the upper and lower drag link, as well as the damper and track bar ball joint, are the components taking the beating. The damper should control this, but I have a hard time believing that we could make a decent damper for years and then suddenly with the redesign of running the ball joint in the track bar, it all changed and went to heck. As a tech, I'm still not sure how they're gonna fix the true concern. I've worked on 30-40 of those trucks, ranging from 0-30k miles, and even after replacing all loose components, tires, and trying both ends of the caster spectrum, they still do not hold together more than 5k miles before exhibiting the same concern.
LOVE FORDS! Registered for Tesla 800 hp Cybertruck. Instilled solar farm on property Feb. 2009. No electric bill for 11 years with total electric home, shop, one Tesla.
What you say about the alignment makes sense, but if you check out TSB 18-2268 Ford was having technicians reduce the caster, unlike you increasing caster. Now TSB 18-2268 has been superseded with TSB 19-2274 and all Ford wants you do now is replace the steering damper.
My 86 jeep YJ had death wobble, needed new shocks, sway bushings, and tie rod or something and it went away. Now onto 08 F-250, not sure if its this or front diff but im guessing this. I was given a 350 dollar quote for front diff flush for similar complaints. New tires sure helped it out recently. ill fill the front diff myself and have a shake underneath, keep it off hwy for now. Thanks great video, Id take my fleet to you.
bought a new 2006 F250 and it was taken back to dealer 1st time at 500 miles for the death wobble. It went back many times for the death wobble. I finally gave up with ford and bought better shocks and the wobble happened less.I finally gave up and bought a gmc and am really happy
After The 7.3 ALL Junk 1999 7.3 Last Good Year after that THE bean counters got a hold of the 7.3 and wrecked IT Too Cheap connecting rods & Pump & injectors Went Cheap
Great explanation of alignment angles Bill love trucks i bet that camber bushing is a great time to turn on the alignment rack people don’t understand the value in fixing camber angle where I work
I have had this problem with 2019 lariat since 6k mileage. Don’t think wear problem is the issue. At ford dealer now with 24k miles on truck still trying to get it fixed.
I don't know if this has been mentioned but I'm just going to go ahead and say it. Your Caster effort scenarios are backwards. Positive caster decreases turning radius and eases steering at low speeds and in reverse. Negative caster increases steering effort and decreases turning radius. From personal experience. @powerstrokehelp
This is why right to repair is so important to give independent repair shops the tools needed when manufacturers fail the customer.
I definitely agree. But in this situation any shop can do this repair without any special tools or procedures.
Follow Louis Rossmann's journey in pushing hard for RtR lobbying. The corporate anti-RtR lobbyists are ridiculous and disgusting. He is helping us sway legislators a lot. :)
Whether it's working on cars or computers. I should have a right to work on it or have the choice of taking it to a place I want.
@@mannys9130 Same here.
behexen250 Because Ford just changes out the damper and in the TSB they actually want you to reduce the caster which to me makes no sense. And the damper they put on is on back order, so that’s why. I just added 2.5 degrees to one today installed Fords damper they recommend and it still has death wobble.
An F-250 at work had the death wobble. Ford sent caster wedges to the dealer. They installed the wedges and did the alignment all under warranty.
I see Shoenice is doing well for himself fixing fords. Congratz!
Is this actually him 😂
millio miller no but it would be funny if it was him lmao
I'll give him $20 if he wore a baby blue hat!
Tannnnk yoou
Lmfaooo
Wow. Just another reason I’ll hang on to my 2001 7.3 Excursion. 370,000 miles and every single steering component is original with no issues so far.
i call bullshit on the ball joints and steering box but i can say yes to the rest of the steering
Agree with those miles. If it had 50k miles I might consider it.
dsruddell yeah ball joints have been done once at 250k, but technically that’s a suspension part. I will admit the gearbox does have a little play, but not bad. Other than that though, all original.
😆
I knew it!!! A friggin 7.3 comment.
270k here, factory ball joints, and no play. Factory tie rods, and drag links. All original.
I did alignments for 17 years. Fixed a lot of problems by going outside of specs. I found most “death wobble” issues are the track bar. Also with that high caster he is going to watch for edge wear, mostly on the right tire. Full lock turns really lays the tires over. Rotate the tires before they setup a pattern To get the most life out of them. Great video, spot on.
I did +2° caster on my 2010, it totally ELIMINATED my issue. I've hit huge bumps after and it did not even think about oscillating. Huge win. Started at nominal, now at or slightly over top spec.
I've installed quite a few of those bushings over the course of my career. You definitely need a good understanding of alignments, and how those bushings affect your specs, otherwise you'll be chasing your tail trying to get the alignment dialed in. A quality alignment rack definitely helps as well. Personally, I enjoy doing front end alignments. It's definitely a valuable skill to have as a mechanic.
My DW story... I have a 93 Grand Cherokee. At around 30,000, it started the death wobble. I have a car lift and have done my own mechanic work all my life. So I figured I have this. Up it went and I did everything I have done to hundreds of vehicles for years to check all suspension and front drivetrain. Everything seemed tight and unworn. My wife's dad bought the Jeep new and passed shortly after. Her mother drove the jeep to the store and back till she passed and we inherited it. I know the thing was not put in four wheel drive very many times in it's life. So basically what I am saying is the Jeep was just like new when we got it with less than 20,000 miles. Back to the story of dw. I couldn't find anything wrong so I took it to an alignment shop that I have used for years and have always had good service from them. They couldn't find anything wrong so we drove it up the road. At 45 mph it went into the dw. The guy said he had never seen anything like this. He checked everything and did an alignment on it and it still, dw... After several attempts, he said he determined the track bar was the problem. $180. later he said it was fixed. I picked it up and on the way home it was still wobbling. Went right back and got my money back and found another shop. Same thing, not a clue what caused it but said I needed to replace all my bushings and tie rods. I asked why and they said they were all worn enough that they were all causing the problem. I didn't buy it. Now if I would go from 40 to 60 under heavy throttle, I could get past the wobble and it would run all day. But between 45 and 60 it would almost always wobble and violently!!! Eventually I replaced every part that can be replaced including tires twice because they would wear out fast. 4 or 5 shops tried to fix it and no one knew what to do. After putting up with the problem for several years and spending probably $2,000, I was thinking about what was going on when it was wobbling. I had even stuck my head out the window to watch the tire. What I decided was the toe in was causing the problem. I know it was aligned to specs at least 5 times but something was still not right! I got my tape measure out and a couple of pieces of angle iron and set the toe in to less than 1/8th of an inch. It was over 3/8ths when I first checked it. It has now been over 100,000 miles later and never once have I experienced the DW! I figured out the geometry of these suspensions cause this problem when they get to a certain harmonics. With the toe in adjusted in too far, the left tire will try to go right at a certain harmonic and when it gives in to traction making it slip, then the right tire will be trying to go left and at just the right harmonics the fight for traction gets to be more than the tires can support and they begin fighting and they start the wobble. Don't know if this is a good explanation, but when I took almost all the toe in out of my alignment, it fixed the problem. Even with 31 inch tires the wobble never came back. I now have over 160,000 and it runs and drives like a new one.... Almost.... lol...
I'm not even a ford guy, but I genuinely love watching your videos
Cody Casner I was thinking about getting a 2000 7.3 and lifting it but I’m a die hard honda dude lmaooo
Thanks for this video! 2019 F250 here and I didn’t have death wobble, but I absolutely hated the way it felt over Minnesotas crappy roads. This was magnified after going from 31” tires to 35’s. I added the dual stabilizers and couldn’t be happier with it. Money very well spent!
This is the clearest, most direct explanation of wheel alignment I’ve seen on youtube. I don’t drive trucks but this applied to my cars. Thanks for posting.
Bill I never understood this death wobble. The first time I felt it was in my dads 1976 ford. It’s not a new problem. I just think now that these truck are so heavy and we are hauling such heavy items now we are putting more wear on the steering items. I have never had a problem figuring this problem out in the past. Thanks for explaining this. I think everyone is looking for major play. It does not take much.
Had it in 1975 one ton
This is one of the best videos you've ever done!!! This applies to all 3/4ton and larger straight axle 4wd trucks!! Great information!!
Ibwant to further add this us extremely true.. good luck finding a alignment shop that will do this work!! I had a twin I beam fors that Ibhad to do this myself to fix the caster..
If you are old enough you will remember that tie rod ends and ball joints started failing between 40,000 and 60,000 miles. That used to be the life expectancy of these parts.
2017 Super Duty. 25800 miles and this just happened to me. 70 mph on the highway I hit some minor road roughness associated with a bridge expansion joint. The ensuing vibration was incredible, I had to slow to around 20 mph to get it under control. Thankfully I didn't get rear ended and my wife was saying pull over we blew a tire! This truck drives smooth and doesn't vibrate or wander at all. I can see a worn or loose front end causing issues but my truck doesn't exhibit any symptoms of worn parts. To me that makes this all the more scary.
I live in Tucson, AZ and over the years I've heard nothing but good things from Precision Metal Fabrication.
Dual steering stabilizer, track bar, and caster shims, all from PMF cured the death wobble on my leveled 2016 F350!!! Good stuff!
I've bought parts from PMF. They make some real nice parts.
I'm still geeking out about Bill being a star trek fan.
Track bar bushing and ball joint replacement (I reused the bar and just replaced the ball joint) and tire balance solved my severe case of death wobble in my 2017 super duty. You have to check everything, even the smallest play and right amount of resonance will induce death wobble in these trucks.
Great job.. you are very knowledgeable my man! I’ll will be in touch to get my 2019 F250 upgraded! Got the Death Wobble yesterday after 18k on it. Dealership changed steering dampener but it’s going to wear out again I’m sure! Have a great day gentlemen!
This video is very informative, I am a ASE certified front-end and brake specialist now for 40 years! ....I have come across this problem many many times! And due to the front suspension Geometry, and Alignment specifications do not help with the Death wobble ! The only thing that I disagree with this video? Is when he says that he likes to get the toe closer to 0 as Opposed to 1/16 or even some trucks take 2/16 toe in. The reason why there is toe in , because while your accelerating the torque of the vehicle plus the weigh and forward momentum will actually cause the toe to toe out to zero ! Of course as parts wear out it gets worse! Also toe out will cause your steering wheel to shake at certain speeds and also do what is known as hunting the road .So that's why toe in is very important as well as more caster, and tight parts! Be safe out there, and Good luck!😉😮💨
One inferior part can ruin the whole machine.....it's sad that for the price of what these trucks cost, they skimp out on parts.
Par for the 21st Century course, unfortunately ... and things aren't looking any better out there. I'd say, they're going to get worse, based on what I'm hearing and reading about so far.
Welcome to the 2020 and beyond where everything is considered throw away.
Yeah its pretty awful. My 90's and early 2000's Toyotas are still in amazing shape though :)
@@SmittySmithsonite this is ford being ford. There's a reason why you don't see that many 90s Ford's and below. Ford cheapen on components always since the Model T.
But now they don't let you repair them like the model T was meant to.
@Ben Daulton shut up libtard
I've been in Fords, GMs, and Isuzus all with this problem over the past 20 years. No one at any of the dealerships was ever able to fix it. This video is interesting- thanks for posting.
I worked in front end for 37 years, and fixed a LOT of Fords, AND GM trucks, with offset bushings and upgraded steering bits. I always told the customers, “when the alignment specs are as wide as a football field, it’s always ‘within factory (shit) spec’. That doesn’t mean it’s RIGHT. They were always happy to spend a buck or two to make it drive nicely.
I just purchased a 2017 f250 on January 24 was at the dealer for 22 days. They put a steering shock on it, rotors, and four brand new tires. Also aligned it within spec which is the whole problem. Not enough caster. I will have my dual steering stabilizer set up tomorrow and aligned this week by an independent shop. I will let you know the out come. Keep up the great videos!
Good video!
The most common thing I have found that adds to the DEATH WOBBLES, the track rod, lower bushing, it is a ball joint. Mounted to the Axel. The joint gets loose and allows the front axle to move sideways. This rod parallels the steering linkage that goes from the steering box to the steering knuckle on the passenger side. Just have somebody wiggle the steering wheel back and forth and you'll see it move if it's bad. I have changed dozens of them before I retired from our local power company.
Caster is the culprit for sure. And to add to that alot of people install a leveling kit on the superduty trucks without lowering the rear of the control arm which eliminates ALL of the caster.
I’d recommend the pmf dual steering stabilizer kit! I’ve had mine for a few years, everyone with a stock or modified f250 should get this kit.
Where can I pick one up
Dear Powerstrokehelp, I have two Super Dutty F250 one 2013 and 2015, I have been suffering from dead wobble since first year, the steering shock absorber kit from rough country did not corrected it just controlled, I installed the caster shims..... this is a huge difference !!!! you are 100% right, this corrected the dead wobble in 95% I still have some minor dead wobble at around 120 km per hour (75 miles) in rough streets but I think with proper alignment and changing all parts with wear it will be corrected 100%, thanks !
My 2017 f250 will be going back to the dealer for the 7th time for the death wobble. My local dealer has been great. Ford has not been able to come up with a fix. It has 20k on it. Started at 11k, 13 months after I bought it . 1 month beyond the lemon law. Have a pending lawsuit against Ford. just an update. My attorney was notified by Ford that they will be doing a buyback on my truck. They initially said they wanted one more shot at fixing it and then change their mind the very next day.
My 17 350 developed the wobble after I put a OneUpOffroad 4" lift (premium trust me) on it 9 months after I bought it. Did the castor adjustment to factory specs. Still persisted. Put a PMF dual fox stabilizer and Carli track bar (premium again). Problem solved. Wish this video was made 2 years earlier. For once I am ahead of the pros and learning curve. By the way the OUO lift is a 3 point link setup which is perfect for adjusting castor angle.
Wow! I literally just got back from dropping off my 19 F250 PSD with 16,000mi at Ford for this exact problem.
Bring ot PowerStroke Specialty and we will fix it correctly and it will never be a problem again.
@@powerstrokehelp what's the cost on the fix ?
@@nuclearquantumlaserspewpew9745 Fox shocks are so trash, I have to warranty so many at the shop because they always leak
@@brentambler3506 so what brand is better?
I just learned a whole lot about my '17 F-250.... no wobble yet but I am saving this video. TY!
This is the best explanation of this problem/fix...Now, I feel comfortable buying a new F250 knowing this. Nice job sir!!! I wish you were closer, I'd just bring the truck in and have it done from the start.
I had a brand new e250 van had death wobble even when new they did tires and steering box they never fixed it I think it was an 05 or 06. Thank goodness we have guys like you and others that figure these things out.
Glad it drives good. I am surprised it doesn't pull, though. When I was doing alignments, your final caster readings would tell me it pulls left. Vehicles pull towards the side with less caster, one degree split is a lot. I always aimed for no more than half degree spit.
Good call on the caster being the big issue. I have been telling my Dodge and Ford customers for years to tell the alignment shop to dial in as much caster as possible. I wish I had my own alignment equipment, you're right, somebody that knows how to adjust a straight axle are rare. A customer willing to pay what it takes to fight a straight axle are even more rare.
Ford calls that part a “drag link”. I changed it on my 85 Ranger at 15,000 miles. The Moog part had grease fittings and was way better than OEM
Wow Ford cant blame international on this problem
Its not international at all its Ford to the T. It's been pure ford sence 2011. Once the 6.7 came out international stopped all thing with for light duty trucks and even f350s are all ford
🤣🤣🤣👌🏻👍🏻
I'm not sure about much, but this much I do know,I would never ever buy a Ford,period.
🤣🤣🤣🤣
@@bristoldaffern8898 I think the joke soared right over your head bud.
Your channel is amazing! I have been a subscriber for a long time and this is without question THE PLACE to come to learn everything there is to know about Ford Super Duty trucks. Ford should send some of their engineers to LEARN FROM YOU GUYS!
Just as many people do not really understand the alignment and how to make it better, tire "SPECIALIST" and tire shop foremans/managers always over inflate tires.
When I get new tires I immediately go to a car wash with wet concrete or other concrete surface that is wet or can be wetted (wetted is a word).
I roll the front tires on the wet surface and back out so the tires leave a wet pattern on the dry part of the concrete surface and measure with a tape the tread width on the tire to the wet spot on the concrete. The wet mark will be narrower so I begin deflating 10 psi at at time until the wet mark matches the width of the actual tire width (this means rolling back and forth several times preferably making new wet tracks each time) then take another 5-10 psi to make sure the shoulder of the tire gets about the same amount of weight load from shoulder to shoulder. Make sure to record the corrected psi to bring your tires back to YOUR INDIVIDUAL spec when you periodically check your tire pressure.
Then I repeat the process for the rear tires. Unless the front and rear tires are carrying the same amount of weight, the rear tires may require less pressure to place the entire surface of the tire tread on the pavement.
This "trick" process makes the truck feel so much smoother and safer going down the road even on washboard dirt roads like my area. Driving in the rain or snow is much safer also. This is because the tire is softer and way more rubber is the ground. The truck will not hop around on dirt roads as much or in my case, seems like not at all. I have had my truck up 60 MPH on our washboard dirt roads with no hopping; however you must be mindful/watchful for all kinds of critters running across the road so slow down to 35 or maybe 40 because you might have to brake.
With the tires aired up to MAXIMUM LOAD like the side wall says the center of the tire is rounded and the tire wears in the center minimizing tire wear and mileage to about 50 - 60% of it's useful mileage thereby costing way more money.
If your new tires have sharp shoulder lugs or sharp edges (mud/snow tires) the process is easy and accurate. If the shoulders are rounded you can get rather accurate. In time the shoulders will become sharper as the tire wears. You still must keep on eye on the tread wear to see if you need to air up or down.
When carrying a heavier loads go through process again to so you have the correct PSI for the extra load on the rear tires. You ought to check the front tires also. I hope this helps.
You might Feel free to try the "trick" for yourself and experience a smoother, softer ride, and longer tire wear.
Be safe people...
Same thing can be done with sidewalk chalk. Draw a heavy line across the tread and move one tire revolution and look at what gets worn off and adjust the pressure until all is evenly worn.
Just wet, not wetted, you had it right. You can do this with chalk. Bunch of off road guys do this to get their ideal air pressure, especially in an unladen truck where the rear is lighter.
I have a 2019 F250 SD with 35k miles and it has a death wobble. It's a certified pre-owned vehicle and I knew about this issue before I bought it. I was going to take it to a dealer since it is still under factory bumper to bumper so now after watching your vid I think I'll wait until I can get the truck on the lift and check for play. Great info here, thank you.
Bill and these guys know what they are doing!!! We've been taking out trucks to them since 2000....thank you Bill!!!
The new TSB for this problem list many of the things you are talking about. Adding the castor is one of them. You are way ahead of them. Keep up the good work.
Bill's alignment class 101 keep them coming
Paul Herring you mean his aligment class
@@matthone5346 LOL I saw that on the white board, too!
I’ve got a 2012 that had a horrible death wobble. My tires were fairly wore ,but not shot. It didn’t take any braking to cause it, only bumps at highway speed. Scary as heck. My dealership replaced all of the front end parts under warranty. Probably only because I have a great relationship with the mechanic. Now I have 240000 and no problems since. Nock on wood. Death wobble is no joke!
I have had great success in eliminating Death Wobble simply by upgrading the stock steering Stabilizer with Fox brand unit. Very easy to install using very basic tools.
Where can I pick one up @
We need more folks that think like you when it comes to liability. Customers might not like it but the end result is a job that will be safe for everyone as your family is on the road with these vehicles. I had a tech friend that had a slogan on his box. No custom cobentery
Thanks for explaining; I've always wondered what caster was even though I've seen it explained before in written form. Excellent video.
Fixed my 2019 F250 6.7L Platinum with a $150 Fox steering damper. Tightened up the steering as well.
My brother was the assembly alignment expert at KTP for years. Home of Super Duty. Kentucky Truck Plant. He was the last one to touch the trucks before they were loaded for delivery.
I wonder if Ford's weaksauce caster spec is to make up for those heavier parts in the front end and no upgraded Power steering gear or pump. Either that or they're tired of getting complaints from customers that they're too hard to turn. I really appreciate the time you take in these videos to break down a problem. You do an excellent job going over the solutions to a customer issue.
Great information my friend, learning a lot, we have 6 f350 7.3 and I learned everything to maintain them from you and your men. Thank you sir
I’ve got a 19 with a 2 inch level on the front , 11k miles and I’ve experienced the beginning of the death wobble when hitting bumps on the highway.
Lemme guess, you used a puck instead of a legitimate lift kit.
@@mr8610 of course he did. Mist of us do and we pay the price for it
Rebuilt my 2006 F250 4x4 front end at 200,000 miles ball joints where gone,I did all of it because I figure its a 400,000 mile truck.Look at it as half life.Replace all components and reset the clock for another 200,000 miles.Working on US Air Force aircraft taught me this.Don't wait to break down on the road,if you have got good service from an item,but its got some miles on it change it out.
Had two different fleet xl f350 2017&2019 with same issue, local ford dealer here in California fixed it with no problems in 3 days
What dealer did you go to in California? Confirm they fixed it no issues?
Joe what was the fix that the dealer used?
I call BS on that
Same thing on mine. 2018 lariat fixed in a day, one part was replaced. Driving amazing
Which dealer is that u went to? I have a 1997 f250 and it JUST started happening and I doubt they'll fix it for free. Ford is sketchy, I'd never buy a Ford again. They melted down the MAF sensor bolts so they can't be replaced without replacing the entire housing (makes the job harder to discourage DIYers from cleaning the MAF themselves which should be as simply as screw driver and 4 minutes), u need a special tools to replace fuel filters, they make it hard for the natural consumer to be happy. The Ford dealers can't even give me my cars make and model despite having the vin. They always say they honestly are not sure which trim it is 😂
2019 F250 6.7 Diesel Lariot Edition with 18k miles. Upgrading mine now.
How did it turn out?
On Ford technical service bulletin # 18-2268 they are calling out to reduce the caster on both front wheels without exceeding the caster factor limits. Bill is saying to increase it past the factory limits which would involve purchasing two new casters shims and voiding your warranty.
Ford has told us on the new trucks to add alot of caster so when I align the new 6.7 trucks I put cam acentric to give it the most caster as possible to help and combat death wobble
Eccentric...?
I salute you sir. Most guys do not understand the Caster problem with these trucks
I'll never forget getting a $100 tip from doing uppers/lowers and alignment on a 92-96 4WD F-350. I told the guy I was just doing my job, but he appreciated the extra effort put into his vehicle. There's more ingenuity, work and magic that goes into doing a proper alignment than most think. It is my specialty.
Ford should hire Bill as their Super Duty design engineer. Good job!
This is going to be a viral video I guarantee it great work!!
Reminds me of that scene in Fight Club. There haven't been enough deaths caused by this problem to justify a recall.
Man I was thinking the same thing
I'm watching for entertainment. I drive a 76 that has never had this problem. Even drove one to Alaska, an old hi boy.
I can tell exactly why, because that vehicle that you have has grease zerks on it. and these vehicles don't when they did away with grease zerks and a regiment of lubrication. that is when these problems started happening. I can guarantee that this problem would be reduced or eliminated. if they would put grease zerks on these vehicles no doubt.
Thank you Bill for your expert explanation of the steering linkages and proper alignment on these trucks. Mine is wandering and has some vibration at 62-66 mph but no death wobble. Your opinion without looking at the truck would be appreciated, as I'm not anywhere near your area
I am having the same problem on a 2022 with about 1300 miles at any speed over about 60 on the freeway for one or two seconds. I am wondering if this will just get worst over time and miles?
I don’t even own a truck like this but very interested in why this is happening. Thanks for explaining it
Front track bar joint on the axle is also a major factor in it death wobble too
It's usually the tie rod end on track bar. Look at the jeeps, same common issue.
Caster the key. Makes sense, good explanation. Gonna have to find a couple of those offset bushings to throw in my tremor when I get it in a few days. I'll be checking mine out and see where my caster is at.
If you have the "death wobble" on this type of steering setup, look at the stabilizing shock. It is a no brainer to check tie rods and pitman and idler arms and brakes but after hundreds of jeep and fords have come into my shop with this problem, the stabilizing shock is far and away the biggest culprit. I never understood why dealers had a blind spot for the issue, kind of like chevy trucks with their shitty racks, that issue was obvious on the first customer that came into my shop after being stonewalled by the dealer. Keep up the good work on this channel.
Edit: Having someone turn the wheel while you watch it with the tires on the ground will exaggerate the movement of the steering components, and worn tie rods and pitman arms/idler arms will be more identifiable.
I had the DW at 30k miles from hitting a pothole about 45-60mph. I did 2 things to fix it: #1) Like Bill advises, I put in the PMF Dual Steering Stabilizer Bracket on my stock ride truck (and I replaced the stock steering stabilizer). #2) I reduced my factory castor from 4.5 to about 2.5. (However, I probably should have left the castor alone. And I suspect the new steering stabilizer set up alone would have been enough to fix the problem). I have 60k on my truck and the DW has not returned. Also, I addressed the problem quickly so it wouldn't destroy my whole front end.
I remember driving a F250 from the year 2000 with a death wobble. Looks like Ford has made some progress in the last 19 years!
It's a good thing they are built "Ford Tough"! Imagine if they weren't. Wheels would be falling off at 20k miles.
Mine is built International 7.🌲 Tough. If it had a Ford engine in it then it would have been melted down by now.
Keep it up! Your the smartest person I've ever seen on TH-cam. No joke, I just subscribed. I just wanted to know what was causing deathwobble. I don't own a truck and never heard of this problem till recently. I know everything I wanted to know. Thx.
I have an 09 F250 Super Duty, 6” lift kit and 35” tires. Been great so far, but I do get oscillation on a certain road, but only the last 2 weeks. It has a rough country dual steering stabilizer that is hydraulic and is now 6-7 years old. Recently installed the Bilstein 5100 shocks, and yesterday ordered the Bilstein dual stabilizer with monotube gas shocks instead of hydraulics. Should make a world of difference. Definitely recommend the Bilstein stuff.
What most folks overlook is the tires! They wear uneven on these trucks unless rotated regularly. Once they are out of balance the death wobble starts. Typically suspension has little to do with it. Steering dampers only mask the problem. Doesn’t fix it. Get some good tires and rotate them regularly.
I work in a city fleet garage and we have hundreds of F250 350 450 . all diesel's and every now and then i get one with the death wobble .First off to dealer if it's under warranty. 2nd we pick it up 2 week later and still same condition after they changed p\s box ...I put two new tire's on front ,put a heavy duty steering dampener on that was way better then stock ,and did a alignment .D-Wobble was gone .2018 .with 19k ...
“Cuz your phones bout to ring its ass off after this video”😂😂😂
My 17 did it when new. I put this stabilizer on it with the fox dampeners. Fixed the problem. $600
Nailed it!
Cheap manufacturer parts and cheap rotors!
Had many factory rotors that are warped after 60,000kms
Sicktrickintuner hell I warp cheap rotors in about a month...
Guess I’ve lucked out. Fingers crossed 128k tow and feed cattle daily with it. Hasn’t had a single part replaced. Drives to town 75 mph straight and smooth as it did the day I drove it off the lot
I have a 2019 with only 16,000 miles of gentle use. Experienced death wobble yesterday and had to come to a complete stop on the highway before I could regain control.
How much did this fix cost to do ????
friend had a 2019 with less that 6k, less than 6000 miles, death wobble............ford did nothing
@behexen250 None of the dealers could solve the problem, at least not in the past. I don't know about today.
@@tommytruth7595 None of YOUR dealers maybe. Mine did
@behexen250 not a real fix. Bandaid on bad engineering.
Id be pissed if i spent $70,000 on a F-250 to have this happen at 60k miles.
Id expect it at say, 200k but not at 60.
Mines at 20k miles and just got the wobble today haha felt it the past few months about to do it but today was the full wobble. Calling the dealer tomorrow
Wish you were in my town so I could bring my truck to you and get my wobble fixed. Just happened to me yesterday at 73,300 miles on my 2018 F250.
i bought a malibu certified car tires were low pressure , needed antifreeze needed brake fluid, 15% oil life front left had a squeek sqawk i checked it out myself ,ball joint and tie rod ends had to be replaced im sure glad they do a through check
A competent ford dealer would have no issue fixing these , there’s even a bulletin to add more caster as you did. Replacing worn tie rods is normal business and then one more to not overlook would be the ball joint on the end of the track bar. Many are fixed just with that
I have a couple upgrades from PMF... solid and over all excellent quality.
The TSB Ford released was to lower caster due to the fight to center that the vehicle experiences when it hits a bump in the road. Current TSB is to replace the damper with a updated unit. Seen trucks on the PDI test drive experience a wobble. New truck with under 10 miles. Everything tight. Everything new. Caster at 5.7 and 6.2 degrees respectively. Replaced the damper as per TSB. No change. Aired the front tires to 80 psi, and it got better, but problem is still there. Nobody has found the true problem as far as I know. Seen a lot of 15-20k mile trucks come in with loose parts, but I wouldn't say that they are the causal part, because the upper and lower drag link, as well as the damper and track bar ball joint, are the components taking the beating. The damper should control this, but I have a hard time believing that we could make a decent damper for years and then suddenly with the redesign of running the ball joint in the track bar, it all changed and went to heck. As a tech, I'm still not sure how they're gonna fix the true concern. I've worked on 30-40 of those trucks, ranging from 0-30k miles, and even after replacing all loose components, tires, and trying both ends of the caster spectrum, they still do not hold together more than 5k miles before exhibiting the same concern.
LOVE FORDS! Registered for Tesla 800 hp Cybertruck. Instilled solar farm on property Feb. 2009. No electric bill for 11 years with total electric home, shop, one Tesla.
Outstanding explanation with breakdown of parts involved. And a thorough explanation. Well done as usual.
What you say about the alignment makes sense, but if you check out TSB 18-2268 Ford was having technicians reduce the caster, unlike you increasing caster. Now TSB 18-2268 has been superseded with TSB 19-2274 and all Ford wants you do now is replace the steering damper.
Gotta love a truck that is sporting a “flying WV” emblem. Go Mountaineers!!
Science is good. So glad that man knows his stuff. Just an awesome result.
My rotors were warped from the factory in my 2019. Right around 40k miles I got the death wobble.
My 86 jeep YJ had death wobble, needed new shocks, sway bushings, and tie rod or something and it went away. Now onto 08 F-250, not sure if its this or front diff but im guessing this. I was given a 350 dollar quote for front diff flush for similar complaints. New tires sure helped it out recently. ill fill the front diff myself and have a shake underneath, keep it off hwy for now. Thanks great video, Id take my fleet to you.
bought a new 2006 F250 and it was taken back to dealer 1st time at 500 miles for the death wobble. It went back many times for the death wobble. I finally gave up with ford and bought better shocks and the wobble happened less.I finally gave up and bought a gmc and am really happy
After The 7.3 ALL Junk 1999 7.3 Last Good Year after that THE bean counters got a hold of the 7.3 and wrecked IT Too Cheap connecting rods & Pump & injectors Went Cheap
Great explanation of alignment angles Bill love trucks i bet that camber bushing is a great time to turn on the alignment rack people don’t understand the value in fixing camber angle where I work
I have had this problem with 2019 lariat since 6k mileage. Don’t think wear problem is the issue. At ford dealer now with 24k miles on truck still trying to get it fixed.
I don't know if this has been mentioned but I'm just going to go ahead and say it. Your Caster effort scenarios are backwards. Positive caster decreases turning radius and eases steering at low speeds and in reverse. Negative caster increases steering effort and decreases turning radius. From personal experience. @powerstrokehelp
Wow my manz literally just diagnosed how ford built thier trucks from legal issues to legal issues they have coming 👍🏼 sub