Exactly my problem on a 2004. I couldn't find a wiring diagram , took it to a shop twice. First time , he replaced the fuse box. This must be a common problem with the fuse boxes. A year later, same problem came back. I was using a jumper wire to start the truck. I applied your fix, and bingo, problem gone for good. Thanks a million.
@@paisleyprince5280 I have a very keen eye for this sort of thing my friend! And you sir, you sound like a hater! Ivan is doing his job and you're doing yours. Don't keep the hate in your heart, let it out!
@@paisleyprince5280 It just means that a very significant fraction of problems are electrical connections gone bad or some little thing slipped out of place.
Wiring diagram circuit understanding and logical thinking. Add Eric O's favorite tool a scope on rope, Problem found. Finish with Ivan's no parts required. Car now fixed. Bravo my friend.
This wire ended up being my same problem. After 3 years of intermittent issues. No crank, sometimes with instrument lights, sometimes without, except the check engine light. Intermittent blower motor function. Random dimming of lights. Even my 4x4 switch issues. Thank you for this excellent video!!!
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics to fix cars like keith no hands you will have to go work with him as a phone tech hands free headset up untill he takes over the diagnostics machine remotely yes you spell keith G O D
My grandson had to wiggle his headlamp relay more and more often to have headlights on his '99 GMC 1500. When it got useless, I bought a fuse box off a Tahoe on Ebay for $30. The listing on Ebay had really good pics and I could tell they were a match. It was loaded with fuses so we ended up with a lot of fuses and relays for parts. Cheap fix. I told him to notice when an oncoming vehicle had a headlight or daytime running light out, it would probably be a GM product. He laughs every time he sees one now. Great video Ivan!
I just found you a few days ago. And am I impressed. What a teacher. I have been a Shadetree since the mid-seventies. I do pretty good but have friends in the business I would have to call if I got stumped. Being schooled by you and how these lessons can be used for all kinds of problems is fantastic. I thank you for what you just have and will teach me with each posting. Keep them coming and again, Thanks.
I have seen this problem before as a Chevy tech. I was like he is going to go straight for the ignition switch fuse cutting the system in half. As my mentor always said to me. I don't care how long it take you to get the answer. As long as you get. Good job.. push to be like you one day.
I started using a notebook years ago because of this channel, its also helpful with cars that have similar issues and I have a record of what was tested for myself .Service writers will never include that kind of information and customers will return when the check engine light is back on and only assume its the same exact problem.
This video helped me greatly. I found the B12 wiee on my fuse box melted once I checked for power. Spent 3 days checking wires, replaced the starter(it was bad anyway) and replace the ignition switch. Thanks for the detailed video.
Thanks for making this video! After exhausting all other troubleshooting I looked to my fuse box and found B12 was burnt. Made a jumper up from +12VDC and attached it to the B12 wire and she cranked right over! I owe ya a case of beer for this vid. 🍻
Ivan you are so diligent when it comes to diagnostic work. You are definitely a master of the bypass test. You're absolutely right, the test light is a very powerful tool that alot of technicians do not use to its full potential..
Great diagnostic, Ivan! I would go straight to the ignition switch, because it's a high wear part that can fail, but didn't expect the problem to be in the fuse box - good reasoning and not jumping steps really paid out! That corrosion control device seems to work well for itself - the device is not corroded :-)
Ivan, it's really amazing and entertaining watching you debug all these. Yet a multi-meter might be something better be in your tool box. The fuse can easily get ruled out by a multi-meter
A theoretical mathematical point: You can do this kind of detective work MUCH faster if you use a binary search algorithm: pick the midpoint of the circuit, check it. That cuts the search area in HALF with just one test. Repeat halving and testing. For instance if there are 8 points of failure, instead of having to test 8 places, you can find the problem with just 2^X=8, where X equals 3. If there were 64 points, just 6 tests. Theoretically proven to be the best search algorithm.
I absolutely love this case Ivan! It shows how a simple tool Adam be used and applied in strategic manner to diagnose what would be a parts cannon nightmare. Mad respect for the NPR King Ivan the Great, First of his Kind, From House Diagnostic.
Thanks! You are worth so much for what you are sharing. I don’t subscribe to anyone, but I will for you. What you do for the auto repair community is in a different category than everyone else. Thanks for being you and sharing.
There are thin copper buss bars. They corrode and break. Sometimes just a hairline crack. No active electronics. Actually a somewhat common issue. There are some videos around the internets that pinpoint the exact failure. I will see if I can find it and link it below…
By pass test, if a circuit is meant to have power with a positive test light you can safely apply power. Control power and Direct power. This a great lesson!
Thank you so much for sharing the labor charges. One doesn't have to share the dollar amount. We can figure that out for ourselves. But none, if any, of the other YT repair channels let us know what the customer's going to pay. That's important when considering independent vs dealership, competent vs incompetent.
Anything but the dealership. My parents just bought a 2006 Acura MDX from their friend who drove through an Italian restaurant. They bought it cheap and I’m going to do the bodywork and paint. A/C wasn’t working. The lady just paid the dealership $1300 to fix it and it stopped working a couple days later. I’ve never done AC work and I already found the leak, repair it, and recharged it. I already had everything so it was a no parts fix, basically. Dealership charge her $500 for a blender door and the recharge plus labor.
@@Titans2138 My Daughter took her car to Nissan for no A/C. They replaced the compressor and charged her $1200. Its been back twice since then for no A/C. Just because its the dealer dont make it right! Lol!
Great analysis. Another crimp story: A $30K computer low voltage, high current path had a creeping loss over long periods (6 months). Two engineers studied this for weeks when one finally got hold of an IR camera to seek out the cause of increased resistance. Turned out to be a crimp on one high flexible stranded wire (very fine gauge strands with a high strand count). Over long periods the strength of the (properly done) crimp would relax bringing the impedance up to 0.05 Ohms. Connection integrity faults account for most electrical failures.
One thing that you kind of glossed over towards the end was the crimp being loose - and how important a simple tug test can be when doing things like that. I won't say how many times I've had to redo one of my crimp connections that looked really good but fell apart the second I did a crimp test on it! One second to do a tug test, but hours of peace of mind.
Love your Diags. great stuff.I just wanted to let you know that there are clamp on AMP meters that have MAMPs scale. It makes things easier. Keep up the awsesome troubleshooting😄👍
Really great video! I especially like how you went along the connection points according to the wiring diagram. Excellent detail on how you diagnosed the problem.
Great detective work there ivan.everything have a right way to do it.once fall in wrong hands ✋️ the amount of work for proper tech is doubles. And its always a case with you ..
That was a cool video. It's so hard to believe the fault can be internal to the fuse box in such a small space. Logic is the only way to work. Proven yet again.
Solder makes a Crazy world just more reliable, Yes I have pulled one of those fuse boxes apart once just to see how it's put together, It's like printed circuit boards stacked just a huge mess of none repairable links. I was a little surprised by how it's done, My guess it saves a lot of space and extra wiring .And no it wasn't that one 😁 , Great Video as always I just don't seem to have time to watch all of them but would love to👍.
Crimping electrical splices provides a good mechanical connection and soldering splices provides a perfect electrical connection that's why both should always be done if at all possible! Another great diag Ivan!!!
You can take those fuse boxes apart, the only problem with that fuse box is that one of the wires is cracked that is routed from pin to pin. I've replaced those little wires before, all they are just 20 gauge wires.
It is probably easier to bypass the fuse box with an external fuse but you can take those fuse boxes apart and fix them in about the same time you can go and get a new one from the junk yard... well, it depends on how far the junk yard is, but you may have to drill out some plastic welds to do it. It is likely a cracked and broken bus bar, most likely near a bend in the metal. You can fix them by removing them and soldering the bus bar back together or bypassing the crack with a thick enough wire. All you need is a soldering iron that can get hot enough to heat the bus bar quick enough to melt the solder. Edit: And of course a Dremel or drill to cut and drill out any plastic welds.
Thank you so much for this video! You helped me grow confident on troubleshooting electric issues. I follow every step and found my issue. Once again thank you!!!!!!!
I've seen this problem before. A tech worked on the SUV the same year and replaced the start switch on the column. That didn't fix it but it did actually. He just did not set the switch to the correct setting to match the old switch. Once I did that the engine started right up. They should get 12v to fuse 10 I believe in the fuse box in the cab of SUV. That's what I was getting because the switch was engaging completely.
I wonder if that one is the same as some other GM fuse boxes that have a solid 20 gauge piece of wire running through terminals on the inside where the wire tends to break in two when they get older? I’ve taken some of them apart in the past and fixed them.
Looks like an upstater! Awesome bypass tests and permanent bypass fix. Who needs a circuit board hidden in a fusebox to run an ignition circuit? Not this guy. I’ve come across this issue before but with different failures and am always curious about where the failure is on the circuit board or internal leg/pin. You could do a series of failed part dissection if you collect enough of them 😄
I would have been wrong, but the first thing that I would have done is wiggle the shifter, moved it to neutral, then would have progressed on. Regardless, great job as always!
Im not a fan of notes... just never have needed them. But... I also don't do wiring work. Ill gladly refer that work so someone else. That was some good work
That was strange place. I have a 93 F-150. It was in the same wire loom going from fuse box to firewall connection. I found short using voltage drop from that connection on ignition switch to engine fuse box. The wire bundle after fuse box was naturally laying on wheel well. Years of rubbing against each other in the harness due to weight of harness itself. Used the power probe signal generator to find the location of the short. i was very lucky because signal generator may not work.
@2:21 notice gauges when u hit start selection on key switch, @28:15 notice gauges when key switch was in start selection.. if it was mine parts cannon would have had a ignition switch relaced first i would have been wrong. Love your videos!
I'm very sure you were bragging and wanted to impress me and those watching with your knowledge. I'll give you a gold star if you give me a hug. Besties?
My uncle had a really nice S-10 long box extended cab 4x4 all cherried out with the ziebart electronic rust control. He took really good care of his truck keeping it clean but the electronic rust control gimmic actually rusted the truck out so bad it had to be junked at around 120,000 miles. Frame rotted in half and it had holes all over the body is weird places like a line of holes down the center of both doors and the center of the box and the rest of the body. Tail gate surprising wasn't rusted at all. The bed and everything else was just rotten until the frame started cracking and it started breaking fuel lines and such. It was also an electrical nightmare being the grounds started rotting off and in the 90's no one knew anything about this new electronic fuel injection just had wires jumping all over. What a shame. The truck didn't even last 10 years when you see others that had 3 times the mileage and last twice as long not even washing it.
Haha, wow. Corrosion Device? Never hard of that one lol!! That's hell of great diagnosis!!! Those pesky fuse box!! Always something from northeast!! Great job Ivan!
My 2000 sierra had rotted a hole under fuse panel on wheel well. It Caused that rot spot on fender. If ignored it i would of eventualy had the same issue as this truck did with the fuse panel. Took a square piece of commercial mud flap and used roofing cement to cover rotted hole . my truck is a 298,000 non virgin
one thing to look at in the salt region of the north east. The braided wire between the solenoid and motor rotten away. It will look ok. Grey in color, but probe it with a tool and it turns to dust.
I had a similar problem with my 05 chevy. It would start cranking as soon as you turned on the key. Turned out to be the fuse block. I was lucky enough to have a spare laying around.
My son's 2010 Malibu had security light/no crank. Shop replaced underhood fuse box. Typical broken jumper copper bent conductor in box. Looks like the corrosion inhibitor device didn't work.
Ivan what tool do you use on the ecm side of the relay ...a logic probe to simulate ecm signal or do you use a 5 amp test light safe for ECM logic cicuits? I am always afraid of destroying the ecm
Seeing a rusted-out farm truck like that, I would have made the same kind of repair. As long as the vehicle works as it's supposed to and it was a cheap fix, they are happy. Those owners don't want to spend a fortune on repairs. But I wouldn't be surprised if someone had crawled across that fuse box a time or 2 and did some damage to it. It's rare but I have seen it happen.
OMG this is exactly what's going on with my 2004 Chevy Tahoe! Was intermittent at first, but seemed like a short in dash bc I got a new battery and everything was working, lights door locks etc. I just cant get any voltage to my ignition. Thank you for this video, I sure hope it helps I've been without a ride for going in 2nd month. A new fuse box will it be hard to hook up?
I'm very curious what goes bad inside these fuse boxes. The exact same thing happened on my kia Amanti, and the repair was the same except I used a marine grade fuse box (4 fuse capacity). While I was there, I found the failure point for the heated seats and added that to the marine fuse box. I traced the heated seats to the fuse box years ago, but didn't bother to continue because winter is like 2 days long where I live. So 2 similar failures in the same box a couple of years apart. Makes me wonder🤔.
I laughed at your "amazing" tool. I have several amazing tools and use them all the time. It's good to know where you do and don't have voltage. Seems to solve a lot of problems. Enjoy all of you videos and do learn from them!
Working on a 05 silverado and no crank issue welp, my issue after diagnostics and all that wound up being the PCM1 fuse was blown now that I've got it rolling over I ha e to make sure fuel lines are ran right cuz I am getting no fuel and I know that their not routed correctly but I can't find a diagram from tank to truck fuel lines ugh
👍Ivan: only because I’ve had 3 bad GM fuse panels “ rotted green” internally , I knew what the fix was LOL ,, the anti-rust device is a waste of $,,, Ford use to install them @ Dealer level in Ontario,,,,, they don’t work ,,, as you can see,,, they are “triggered every key cycle “ Chinese Steel ? Good Video ! Thanks
What's some of the tools your using? Like your meters, test light with leads, and the back probe tips? What's your thoughts on the d8 xtool for a diy? Thanks. You do a great job.
So what about all the transmission codes popping up? I’ve never had trans issues, my truck won’t start and is throwing those codes, only way I can get it to start is by jumping the starter relay
Im looking to pick up a 2500 with a similar issue car doesnt start unless you roll the ignition to start and manually close the starter relay This will help me if i pick up that truck cheap enough
Crimp plus solder for the win. The crimp provides mechanical strength. The solder will keep moisture from quickly ruining the integrity of the connection.
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Exactly my problem on a 2004. I couldn't find a wiring diagram , took it to a shop twice. First time , he replaced the fuse box. This must be a common problem with the fuse boxes. A year later, same problem came back. I was using a jumper wire to start the truck. I applied your fix, and bingo, problem gone for good. Thanks a million.
Nice!
As a diag tech myself.... This guy is extremely good.
He's what every diagnostic technician should strive to be. Unfortunately, many have very little interest in mastering their profession.
Ehhhhhh..... Ivan rides the no parts required schtick pretty hard. But hey it gets him clicks.
@@paisleyprince5280 nothing to do with clicks... NPR gets cars back on the road faster, cheaper, and more reliably. Happy customers! 😁
@@paisleyprince5280 I have a very keen eye for this sort of thing my friend! And you sir, you sound like a hater! Ivan is doing his job and you're doing yours. Don't keep the hate in your heart, let it out!
@@paisleyprince5280 It just means that a very significant fraction of problems are electrical connections gone bad or some little thing slipped out of place.
Wiring diagram circuit understanding and logical thinking. Add Eric O's favorite tool a scope on rope, Problem found. Finish with Ivan's no parts required. Car now fixed. Bravo my friend.
This wire ended up being my same problem. After 3 years of intermittent issues. No crank, sometimes with instrument lights, sometimes without, except the check engine light. Intermittent blower motor function. Random dimming of lights. Even my 4x4 switch issues. Thank you for this excellent video!!!
What wire was it? Do you happen to have the part number?
Every video I am amazed that Ivan does all this stuff mostly one handed. Incredible.
Rainman Ray is the guy that amazes me with his left hand .
I learned from Keith the guru! Next step is fixing cars with NO HANDS, 😂
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics 😂
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Bluetooth repairs!
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics to fix cars like keith no hands you will have to go work with him as a phone tech hands free headset up untill he takes over the diagnostics machine remotely yes you spell keith G O D
My grandson had to wiggle his headlamp relay more and more often to have headlights on his '99 GMC 1500. When it got useless, I bought a fuse box off a Tahoe on Ebay for $30. The listing on Ebay had really good pics and I could tell they were a match. It was loaded with fuses so we ended up with a lot of fuses and relays for parts. Cheap fix. I told him to notice when an oncoming vehicle had a headlight or daytime running light out, it would probably be a GM product. He laughs every time he sees one now. Great video Ivan!
Dude, you rock. So hard to find logical quality diagnostic individuals on here. Thanks for this.
YOU ARE A BAD ASS TECH YOU ARE A TEACHER IN OUR WORLD THANKS RICHARD
I just found you a few days ago. And am I impressed. What a teacher. I have been a Shadetree since the mid-seventies. I do pretty good but have friends in the business I would have to call if I got stumped. Being schooled by you and how these lessons can be used for all kinds of problems is fantastic. I thank you for what you just have and will teach me with each posting. Keep them coming and again, Thanks.
Thanks for the kind words Rick! We're all learning together 👍
I have seen this problem before as a Chevy tech. I was like he is going to go straight for the ignition switch fuse cutting the system in half. As my mentor always said to me. I don't care how long it take you to get the answer. As long as you get. Good job.. push to be like you one day.
Ivan. Have you ever thought of teaching? You could light up bright some dim bulbs in a lot of new mechanics minds.
I started using a notebook years ago because of this channel, its also helpful with cars that have similar issues and I have a record of what was tested for myself .Service writers will never include that kind of information and customers will return when the check engine light is back on and only assume its the same exact problem.
Great diagnosis, Ivan. You are right about keeping notes.
This video helped me greatly. I found the B12 wiee on my fuse box melted once I checked for power. Spent 3 days checking wires, replaced the starter(it was bad anyway) and replace the ignition switch. Thanks for the detailed video.
Thanks for making this video! After exhausting all other troubleshooting I looked to my fuse box and found B12 was burnt. Made a jumper up from +12VDC and attached it to the B12 wire and she cranked right over! I owe ya a case of beer for this vid. 🍻
Ivan you are so diligent when it comes to diagnostic work. You are definitely a master of the bypass test. You're absolutely right, the test light is a very powerful tool that alot of technicians do not use to its full potential..
I will go a once over with a test light, then break out the meter if it passes.
Important to know what type to use also. Big load to test for continuity, sensitive bulb to test insulation.
Thanks for breaking down where one diag stops and the next starts.
Great diagnostic, Ivan! I would go straight to the ignition switch, because it's a high wear part that can fail, but didn't expect the problem to be in the fuse box - good reasoning and not jumping steps really paid out! That corrosion control device seems to work well for itself - the device is not corroded :-)
Thank You John ñ
I’ve replaced several of those GM fuse boxes for various issues. Thanks Ivan!
Ivan, it's really amazing and entertaining watching you debug all these. Yet a multi-meter might be something better be in your tool box. The fuse can easily get ruled out by a multi-meter
The Master at work. Always interesting, always informative (if you are a diagnostician)
Also interesting for those of us who dont work on cars
A theoretical mathematical point: You can do this kind of detective work MUCH faster if you use a binary search algorithm: pick the midpoint of the circuit, check it. That cuts the search area in HALF with just one test. Repeat halving and testing. For instance if there are 8 points of failure, instead of having to test 8 places, you can find the problem with just 2^X=8, where X equals 3. If there were 64 points, just 6 tests. Theoretically proven to be the best search algorithm.
You may have noticed Ivan says “cut the system in half”. That’s exactly what that means.
Where do you live lol im having a ground problem or something ugh why so many dam wires i hate the chevy Malibu 😡
I absolutely love this case Ivan! It shows how a simple tool Adam be used and applied in strategic manner to diagnose what would be a parts cannon nightmare. Mad respect for the NPR King Ivan the Great, First of his Kind, From House Diagnostic.
Ok let's see it.
Thank you so much for the video. My problem was the green tower 40 amp fuse. They are hard to get out the come straight out but it takes some work.
Ivan, I love your level of determination.
Thanks! You are worth so much for what you are sharing. I don’t subscribe to anyone, but I will for you. What you do for the auto repair community is in a different category than everyone else. Thanks for being you and sharing.
Fascinating. I’d love to see inside that fuse box.
There are thin copper buss bars. They corrode and break. Sometimes just a hairline crack. No active electronics. Actually a somewhat common issue. There are some videos around the internets that pinpoint the exact failure. I will see if I can find it and link it below…
Here you go…
th-cam.com/video/QKAlnxkMykw/w-d-xo.html
Congratulations on 150K subscribers. Well deserved.
Thanks for your support Gary 🙂
By pass test, if a circuit is meant to have power with a positive test light you can safely apply power. Control power and Direct power. This a great lesson!
Okay Ivan you win! I'll stop using crimp connections!
Thank you so much for sharing the labor charges. One doesn't have to share the dollar amount. We can figure that out for ourselves. But none, if any, of the other YT repair channels let us know what the customer's going to pay. That's important when considering independent vs dealership, competent vs incompetent.
Anything but the dealership. My parents just bought a 2006 Acura MDX from their friend who drove through an Italian restaurant. They bought it cheap and I’m going to do the bodywork and paint. A/C wasn’t working. The lady just paid the dealership $1300 to fix it and it stopped working a couple days later. I’ve never done AC work and I already found the leak, repair it, and recharged it. I already had everything so it was a no parts fix, basically. Dealership charge her $500 for a blender door and the recharge plus labor.
@@Titans2138 My Daughter took her car to Nissan for no A/C. They replaced the compressor and charged her $1200. Its been back twice since then for no A/C. Just because its the dealer dont make it right! Lol!
Great analysis. Another crimp story: A $30K computer low voltage, high current path had a creeping loss over long periods (6 months). Two engineers studied this for weeks when one finally got hold of an IR camera to seek out the cause of increased resistance. Turned out to be a crimp on one high flexible stranded wire (very fine gauge strands with a high strand count). Over long periods the strength of the (properly done) crimp would relax bringing the impedance up to 0.05 Ohms. Connection integrity faults account for most electrical failures.
Actually I have a Thermal Camera video coming out today!!
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics He say: "Good idea... " (Stolen from Never Cry Wolf.)
having watched a few too many South Main videos, I start out by feeling like there is a broken ground, G103 I think it is... ;)
Very underrated comment.
Great diag. The best corrosion control device is KROWN RUST or equivalent.
One thing that you kind of glossed over towards the end was the crimp being loose - and how important a simple tug test can be when doing things like that. I won't say how many times I've had to redo one of my crimp connections that looked really good but fell apart the second I did a crimp test on it! One second to do a tug test, but hours of peace of mind.
Love your Diags. great stuff.I just wanted to let you know that there are clamp on AMP meters that have MAMPs scale. It makes things easier. Keep up the awsesome troubleshooting😄👍
Really great video! I especially like how you went along the connection points according to the wiring diagram. Excellent detail on how you diagnosed the problem.
Haven’t seen a Russian-repair in a while. Good to see!!! Awesome job, Ivan!
Really liked your video. I have same model that has some intermittent no crank. Your video gives me some idea of things to check.
Great detective work there ivan.everything have a right way to do it.once fall in wrong hands ✋️ the amount of work for proper tech is doubles. And its always a case with you ..
That was a cool video. It's so hard to believe the fault can be internal to the fuse box in such a small space. Logic is the only way to work. Proven yet again.
I've been hooked on your videos from the start . Great analytical mind . Problem solving at its finest . Thanks , jack
Solder makes a Crazy world just more reliable, Yes I have pulled one of those fuse boxes apart once just to see how it's put together, It's like printed circuit boards stacked just a huge mess of none repairable links. I was a little surprised by how it's done, My guess it saves a lot of space and extra wiring .And no it wasn't that one 😁 , Great Video as always I just don't seem to have time to watch all of them but would love to👍.
Impressive detective skills as usual. Great post.
Crimping electrical splices provides a good mechanical connection and soldering splices provides a perfect electrical connection that's why both should always be done if at all possible!
Another great diag Ivan!!!
You can take those fuse boxes apart, the only problem with that fuse box is that one of the wires is cracked that is routed from pin to pin. I've replaced those little wires before, all they are just 20 gauge wires.
It is probably easier to bypass the fuse box with an external fuse but you can take those fuse boxes apart and fix them in about the same time you can go and get a new one from the junk yard... well, it depends on how far the junk yard is, but you may have to drill out some plastic welds to do it. It is likely a cracked and broken bus bar, most likely near a bend in the metal. You can fix them by removing them and soldering the bus bar back together or bypassing the crack with a thick enough wire. All you need is a soldering iron that can get hot enough to heat the bus bar quick enough to melt the solder.
Edit: And of course a Dremel or drill to cut and drill out any plastic welds.
Chevys are always breaking down and good for teaching lol. Another great job, I learn a lot from you.
I've used a power probe to back feed circuits and supply power and grounds before that is one of the best tools I've ever purchased
Power Probe is dangerous... There's no safe current limit. Test light is much safer and has a nice warm glow 😉
Dude thank you you. I’ve been dealing with this for a while. And you have been the most thorough. 💪🏽💪🏽
Thank you so much for this video! You helped me grow confident on troubleshooting electric issues. I follow every step and found my issue. Once again thank you!!!!!!!
I've seen this problem before. A tech worked on the SUV the same year and replaced the start switch on the column. That didn't fix it but it did actually. He just did not set the switch to the correct setting to match the old switch. Once I did that the engine started right up. They should get 12v to fuse 10 I believe in the fuse box in the cab of SUV. That's what I was getting because the switch was engaging completely.
Learned so much from one video. Thanks for posting, really appreciate it.
My Dodge will do that no-start thing intermittently and I found that if I shift to neutral and back to park, it will then start.
What do you think might be wrong? 🤔
I'd definitely check out the neutral switch.
Great process! Thanks for sharing this with us Ivan!
One handed guru an inspiration to us all.
I wonder if that one is the same as some other GM fuse boxes that have a solid 20 gauge piece of wire running through terminals on the inside where the wire tends to break in two when they get older? I’ve taken some of them apart in the past and fixed them.
crimpers and solderers can't complain! thank you for the video!!
Im a Ford guy but that chevy engine is pure thunder when it starts, great exhaust note lol
Looks like an upstater! Awesome bypass tests and permanent bypass fix. Who needs a circuit board hidden in a fusebox to run an ignition circuit? Not this guy. I’ve come across this issue before but with different failures and am always curious about where the failure is on the circuit board or internal leg/pin. You could do a series of failed part dissection if you collect enough of them 😄
I love it too Ivan, great walk thru of diagrams!!!
I would have been wrong, but the first thing that I would have done is wiggle the shifter, moved it to neutral, then would have progressed on. Regardless, great job as always!
Im not a fan of notes... just never have needed them. But... I also don't do wiring work. Ill gladly refer that work so someone else. That was some good work
That was strange place. I have a 93 F-150. It was in the same wire loom going from fuse box to firewall connection. I found short using voltage drop from that connection on ignition switch to engine fuse box. The wire bundle after fuse box was naturally laying on wheel well. Years of rubbing against each other in the harness due to weight of harness itself. Used the power probe signal generator to find the location of the short. i was very lucky because signal generator may not work.
man you nail it all the time 2024 and still learning from your videos thanks mam
@2:21 notice gauges when u hit start selection on key switch, @28:15 notice gauges when key switch was in start selection.. if it was mine parts cannon would have had a ignition switch relaced first i would have been wrong. Love your videos!
Always impressed and yet always over my head.
This was an easy one...
You win a gold star or a cookie. Good for you!
@@bertblue9683 wasn't the point... you need a hug?
I'm very sure you were bragging and wanted to impress me and those watching with your knowledge. I'll give you a gold star if you give me a hug. Besties?
No scopes required here... Just a diagram and a test light!
My uncle had a really nice S-10 long box extended cab 4x4 all cherried out with the ziebart electronic rust control. He took really good care of his truck keeping it clean but the electronic rust control gimmic actually rusted the truck out so bad it had to be junked at around 120,000 miles. Frame rotted in half and it had holes all over the body is weird places like a line of holes down the center of both doors and the center of the box and the rest of the body. Tail gate surprising wasn't rusted at all. The bed and everything else was just rotten until the frame started cracking and it started breaking fuel lines and such. It was also an electrical nightmare being the grounds started rotting off and in the 90's no one knew anything about this new electronic fuel injection just had wires jumping all over. What a shame. The truck didn't even last 10 years when you see others that had 3 times the mileage and last twice as long not even washing it.
That's insane lol
Haha, wow. Corrosion Device? Never hard of that one lol!! That's hell of great diagnosis!!! Those pesky fuse box!! Always something from northeast!! Great job Ivan!
Nice diagnosis. You are the man 👍
Thx. Great job! I quibble with the no parts required ... solder ; )
Great job, as usual! So many wires, so many connections - so many points of failure!
Awesome diagnosis and repair! And I'm sure that anti corrosion device isn't necessary on a 20 year old truck.
My 2000 sierra had rotted a hole under fuse panel on wheel well. It Caused that rot spot on fender. If ignored it i would of eventualy had the same issue as this truck did with the fuse panel. Took a square piece of commercial mud flap and used roofing cement to cover rotted hole . my truck is a 298,000 non virgin
one thing to look at in the salt region of the north east. The braided wire between the solenoid and motor rotten away. It will look ok. Grey in color, but probe it with a tool and it turns to dust.
Legit. Very helpful. Now I can go after this again. Much appreciated.
Very cool how you methodically solved the issue. Great job !!!
I had a similar problem with my 05 chevy. It would start cranking as soon as you turned on the key. Turned out to be the fuse block. I was lucky enough to have a spare laying around.
Thank you for adding how long you charge for these jobs
Amazing work Ivan! Always a pleasure watching you investigate !
My son's 2010 Malibu had security light/no crank. Shop replaced underhood fuse box. Typical broken jumper copper bent conductor in box. Looks like the corrosion inhibitor device didn't work.
Ivan,
Great video, diag, and fix - than you!
Paul (in MA)
I have an 08 doing this and no cool gadgets like that! And no codes popup as far as I can see
Ivan what tool do you use on the ecm side of the relay ...a logic probe to simulate ecm signal or do you use a 5 amp test light safe for ECM logic cicuits? I am always afraid of destroying the ecm
Great troubleshooting skills. Where do I find the wiring diagram? I have a 2007 chevy avalanche, 4wd
Seeing a rusted-out farm truck like that, I would have made the same kind of repair. As long as the vehicle works as it's supposed to and it was a cheap fix, they are happy. Those owners don't want to spend a fortune on repairs. But I wouldn't be surprised if someone had crawled across that fuse box a time or 2 and did some damage to it. It's rare but I have seen it happen.
Most shops would have already have replaced the ignition switch and a few other parts before finding the real cause. Ivan takes the lead, once again
Jumper wire required. Cool. Nice work Ivan .
OMG this is exactly what's going on with my 2004 Chevy Tahoe! Was intermittent at first, but seemed like a short in dash bc I got a new battery and everything was working, lights door locks etc. I just cant get any voltage to my ignition. Thank you for this video, I sure hope it helps I've been without a ride for going in 2nd month. A new fuse box will it be hard to hook up?
Hi Ivan,I always like to watch your videos,they are most educational step by step. Thanks man stay blessed!
I'm very curious what goes bad inside these fuse boxes. The exact same thing happened on my kia Amanti, and the repair was the same except I used a marine grade fuse box (4 fuse capacity). While I was there, I found the failure point for the heated seats and added that to the marine fuse box. I traced the heated seats to the fuse box years ago, but didn't bother to continue because winter is like 2 days long where I live. So 2 similar failures in the same box a couple of years apart. Makes me wonder🤔.
I laughed at your "amazing" tool. I have several amazing tools and use them all the time. It's good to know where you do and don't have voltage. Seems to solve a lot of problems. Enjoy all of you videos and do learn from them!
those fuse boxes can really be a pain in the A..............! IVAN is the MASTER!!! :)
Working on a 05 silverado and no crank issue welp, my issue after diagnostics and all that wound up being the PCM1 fuse was blown now that I've got it rolling over I ha e to make sure fuel lines are ran right cuz I am getting no fuel and I know that their not routed correctly but I can't find a diagram from tank to truck fuel lines ugh
👍Ivan: only because I’ve had 3 bad GM fuse panels “ rotted green” internally , I knew what the fix was LOL ,, the anti-rust device is a waste of $,,, Ford use to install them @ Dealer level in Ontario,,,,, they don’t work ,,, as you can see,,, they are “triggered every key cycle “ Chinese Steel ? Good Video ! Thanks
What's some of the tools your using? Like your meters, test light with leads, and the back probe tips? What's your thoughts on the d8 xtool for a diy? Thanks. You do a great job.
It’s in the description for most of it mate
So what about all the transmission codes popping up? I’ve never had trans issues, my truck won’t start and is throwing those codes, only way I can get it to start is by jumping the starter relay
Im looking to pick up a 2500 with a similar issue car doesnt start unless you roll the ignition to start and manually close the starter relay This will help me if i pick up that truck cheap enough
Love the methodical approach and explanations, where do i get one of those anti corrosion devices for my 20 year old vw van 😂😂😂😂
Dam now you owe the guy a new fender you damaged his haha. Great diagnose work and a no parts requrries fix.
Crimp plus solder for the win. The crimp provides mechanical strength. The solder will keep moisture from quickly ruining the integrity of the connection.