Some notes to supplement this video: Firstly: Open the bleeder screw before opening the expansion valve. You can spin the end right off the valve before seeing any water unless the bleeder screw is open. Secondly: Make sure the machine is cold before removing or replacing the bakelite group cover as heat expansion will make the cover rub against the group cap and possibly crack. Never put a cold group cover on a hot group. Thirdly: The solenoid coil can be removed easily by pulling it back until it hits the safety valve cover, then twisting it 90*. You can leave the wires on. Fourthly: *CRITICAL* Both the parts book and this video show the black o-ring in the wrong position. It does not go between the gicleur tube flange and the three-way valve stem. It goes behind the gicleur flange between the flange and the seat machined into the threaded well. Putting it in as shown here will cause the flange to sit too far away from the valve nucleus, and water will pour out of the group screen and the discharge tube because the nucleus seats aren't sealing to anything. Installing the o-ring properly is VERY tricky. Slip it over the line nut, insert the nut and end of the tube into the group, then very carefully seat the o-ring against the seat, being careful not to disturb it as you ease the tube into its final position. Shine a light down the group neck to make sure the o-ring hasn't squeezed out of the seat as you tighten everything down.
Fifthly: Once the machine is reassembled you need to adjust the expansion valve to the correct pressure. Run the machine up to temperature then adjust the valve up or down until the at-rest brew pressure is between 11 and 12BAR. I set it to 11.5. Contact me if you have any questions.
poppiesrule Thank you for your comments, especially "Fourthly: Critical" as water flushed right out of the group screen when I finished the video. I need to get a new o-ring as it was stretched and chewed up upon removal. I was able to clean out a clogged Gigleur and now air will pass through it. I do have a few questions and greatly appreciate you offering to answer them. First, should some teflon tape be used when screwing the gigleur back into it's housing? Second, when I removed the copper internal group tube it was thickly covered with green oxidation powder. Perhaps this may be part of the reason the gigleur was clogged. In any case, what would cause that and how can it be prevented in the future? The machine is only about 1.5 years old and is used lightly on a daily basis. I do use a 2 stage filter system made for espresso machines. Thanks, again.
Rick Mof You are going to need something to seal the gicleur threads, and the factory did use teflon tape, but I never recommend it as it tends to shed strings of itself that clog things up and cause leaks. You are better off using a food-grade liquid pipe sealant. Also, you are going to have to do a proper water test both before and after your filtration system to ensure your water hardness going into the machine is at the correct level. If you are oversoftening your water, it may be alkaline and corroding your TL30 pipe. I'm sure Chris' Coffee has a proper kit, or you can get the genuine water test kit directly from LMUSA and check its results against the water quality page in the support section of their website.
Hey I just wanted to let you know i'm so glad I read all the comments. Knew something was up when I put it all together. Realised the O-ring had to go in before you set the arm in place. Thanks!
Thanks! Great video. Just did this at home and my machine is back up and running. The gigleur had a small particle that blocked it and my machine flow rate was almost at zero. Now I'm back to normal. Thank you!
I have the same question: what are we fixing? In my case I have a slow drip from the group head when machine is off not when hot/on. Tiny drip like a drop a minute. I regularly back-flush so is this a cleaning issue or replacement of a part that wears out over time ? My machine is 20 years old. Maybe i need to bleed my group head? Thanks for responding.
What is the reason for the problem with the Gigleur ? Reason for the question is, that I am about to buy a brand new GS3! Is the problem on all models? And what to do to prevent it for happen? Great video. Henrik
wow well done but on the other hand, what a huge effort. Not ""user friendly" at all, I can do this on my ECM Synchronika in less than 5 minutes, and I hope that I never ever have to do this on my la Marzocco GS3. (btw I am anyway through with LM)
I can't confirm that at all. I have the GS3 and the ECM Synchronika, watch my channel. Regarding the coffee, I can't taste any difference whatsoever. However, the processing quality of the LaMarzocco is abnormally poor compared to the price and compared to the ECM.
@@lurchamok8137 well after 9 years with ecm mechanika then sync version 1 then sync ver 2 i am sure the coffee on the gs3 av is much better much easy to produce. ecm sync ver 2 went back with the cancel of the 2 boilers working together and that made me nut. i am really happy from the gs3 a big big upgrade
you mean only because the two boilers do not heat up at the same time after the machine has switched on (once a day) , you send it back? And since both machines are dual boilers, why should making coffee be easier with the LM? In my opinion its an overpriced hyped machine build with cheap sheet metall. I regret every single cent that I have invested in the LM. Spare parts are 2-3 times as expensive as elsewhere.
@@lurchamok8137 its not just at the start time they fo not work together, its all day long. So if you're brewing and fruoting then the pressure drop and drop and you feel like your working with an hx machine. And the significant difference is the taste. Every single shot is great no matter if it takes 23 sec or 45 sec. With the ecm its not.
Some notes to supplement this video:
Firstly: Open the bleeder screw before opening the expansion valve. You can spin the end right off the valve before seeing any water unless the bleeder screw is open.
Secondly: Make sure the machine is cold before removing or replacing the bakelite group cover as heat expansion will make the cover rub against the group cap and possibly crack. Never put a cold group cover on a hot group.
Thirdly: The solenoid coil can be removed easily by pulling it back until it hits the safety valve cover, then twisting it 90*. You can leave the wires on.
Fourthly: *CRITICAL* Both the parts book and this video show the black o-ring in the wrong position. It does not go between the gicleur tube flange and the three-way valve stem. It goes behind the gicleur flange between the flange and the seat machined into the threaded well. Putting it in as shown here will cause the flange to sit too far away from the valve nucleus, and water will pour out of the group screen and the discharge tube because the nucleus seats aren't sealing to anything. Installing the o-ring properly is VERY tricky. Slip it over the line nut, insert the nut and end of the tube into the group, then very carefully seat the o-ring against the seat, being careful not to disturb it as you ease the tube into its final position. Shine a light down the group neck to make sure the o-ring hasn't squeezed out of the seat as you tighten everything down.
Fifthly: Once the machine is reassembled you need to adjust the expansion valve to the correct pressure. Run the machine up to temperature then adjust the valve up or down until the at-rest brew pressure is between 11 and 12BAR. I set it to 11.5. Contact me if you have any questions.
poppiesrule Thank you for your comments, especially "Fourthly: Critical" as water flushed right out of the group screen when I finished the video. I need to get a new o-ring as it was stretched and chewed up upon removal. I was able to clean out a clogged Gigleur and now air will pass through it. I do have a few questions and greatly appreciate you offering to answer them. First, should some teflon tape be used when screwing the gigleur back into it's housing? Second, when I removed the copper internal group tube it was thickly covered with green oxidation powder. Perhaps this may be part of the reason the gigleur was clogged. In any case, what would cause that and how can it be prevented in the future? The machine is only about 1.5 years old and is used lightly on a daily basis. I do use a 2 stage filter system made for espresso machines.
Thanks, again.
Rick Mof You are going to need something to seal the gicleur threads, and the factory did use teflon tape, but I never recommend it as it tends to shed strings of itself that clog things up and cause leaks. You are better off using a food-grade liquid pipe sealant. Also, you are going to have to do a proper water test both before and after your filtration system to ensure your water hardness going into the machine is at the correct level. If you are oversoftening your water, it may be alkaline and corroding your TL30 pipe. I'm sure Chris' Coffee has a proper kit, or you can get the genuine water test kit directly from LMUSA and check its results against the water quality page in the support section of their website.
Hey I just wanted to let you know i'm so glad I read all the comments. Knew something was up when I put it all together. Realised the O-ring had to go in before you set the arm in place. Thanks!
Thanks! Great video. Just did this at home and my machine is back up and running. The gigleur had a small particle that blocked it and my machine flow rate was almost at zero. Now I'm back to normal. Thank you!
Great video...pretty intense though. Not sure why the gigleur valve needs replacing. Please share.
I have the same question: what are we fixing? In my case I have a slow drip from the group head when machine is off not when hot/on. Tiny drip like a drop a minute. I regularly back-flush so is this a cleaning issue or replacement of a part that wears out over time ? My machine is 20 years old. Maybe i need to bleed my group head? Thanks for responding.
What is the reason for the problem with the Gigleur ? Reason for the question is, that I am about to buy a brand new GS3!
Is the problem on all models? And what to do to prevent it for happen?
Great video.
Henrik
Are you replacing the Gigleur or just cleaning it? And...why? Isn't it just a control orifice?
wow well done but on the other hand, what a huge effort. Not ""user friendly" at all, I can do this on my ECM Synchronika in less than 5 minutes, and I hope that I never ever have to do this on my la Marzocco GS3. (btw I am anyway through with LM)
you are right but the coffee on the gs3 is way more better :-) i had an ecm and now with gs3. day and night....
I can't confirm that at all. I have the GS3 and the ECM Synchronika, watch my channel. Regarding the coffee, I can't taste any difference whatsoever. However, the processing quality of the LaMarzocco is abnormally poor compared to the price and compared to the ECM.
@@lurchamok8137 well after 9 years with ecm mechanika then sync version 1 then sync ver 2 i am sure the coffee on the gs3 av is much better much easy to produce. ecm sync ver 2 went back with the cancel of the 2 boilers working together and that made me nut. i am really happy from the gs3 a big big upgrade
you mean only because the two boilers do not heat up at the same time after the machine has switched on (once a day) , you send it back? And since both machines are dual boilers, why should making coffee be easier with the LM? In my opinion its an overpriced hyped machine build with cheap sheet metall. I regret every single cent that I have invested in the LM. Spare parts are 2-3 times as expensive as elsewhere.
@@lurchamok8137 its not just at the start time they fo not work together, its all day long. So if you're brewing and fruoting then the pressure drop and drop and you feel like your working with an hx machine. And the significant difference is the taste. Every single shot is great no matter if it takes 23 sec or 45 sec. With the ecm its not.