That jig will give a lip relief angle (not the same thing as the tip angle) of 30 degrees, which is too high for most purposes. That relief angle will give a very aggressive cut in softer materials, but a smaller relief angle of about 20 degrees would be preferable for drilling steel, and perhaps as low as about 10 degrees for harder steels.
I was taught how to sharpen drill bits back in 1966 by hand on the grind stone. After a few you get the "eye" for it. I worked as an auto mechanic for 52 + years and knowing how to sharpen drill bits is a must. All I ever bought for sets at work were Harbor Freight. IMO they are just as good as overpriced drill bit sets and a lot cheaper to replace. Last place I worked one of the mechanics did an excellent job of tearing up his $350 set from Snap-On Tools trying to drill out a broken bolt(which he also seemed to be a expert at snapping bolts and studs). Ten minutes with the cheapo Harbor freight bit I was done. Fancy stuff is great but ya still need common sense.
Always better to have spare tools than to have a single high end one. Life time warranties are great but you still haven't got what you need in the time it takes to get a repair or replacement. In a machine shop, that's not a good thing. Gotta be quick.
Soooo true. I laugh at people buying more expensive tools which cannot be sharpened. An expensive bit lasts 2 times or 3x times longer. That is what the package says. And the last 30% of the lifetime it does not even cut optimal anymore but you keep using it because it was the expensive type. I learned how to sharpen my drill bits, and never buy any drill larger than 6mm, 1/4" The thinner ones unfortunately break sometimes.
Das Schleifen an der Schleifscheibe des Bohrers bedingt zwei Bewegungen gleichzeitig, Drehbewegung und eine Schwenkbewegung damit der Bohrer einen Hinterschliff bekommt. Die Bewegungen habe ich auch bei ihnen gesehen. Den Spitzenwinkel an der Spitze des Bohrers soll 118° betragen, also 59° (60°) seitlich zugestellt zum Schleifstein. Beim Schleifen am Teller ist ihre Bewegung allerdings nur als Drehbewegung ausgeführt gewesen, so dass nach diesem Schleifen der Hinterschliff verloren geht und der Bohrer einen falschen Anschliff bekommt. Ein Tipp noch, ich schleife die Querschneide in beiden Spannuten an der Schleifscheibenkante etwas kleiner bei größeren Bohrern, weil die Kraft zum Bohren ins Volle dadurch geringer ist.
I have become a believer in Harbor Freight stuff. To sharpen drill bits, I use a small HFT belt sander, rest the bit on the tool rest at 67.5°, and gently twist the bit until it is sharpened.
I’ve done it like this for 35 years, at least the part on the grinder. The part on the sanding discs isn’t necessary. An important bit missing, is the importance of getting both cutting edges exactly the same size. Even a few tenths of a mm difference will decrease the efficiency of a drill bit in a major way.
Sumner Nissen taught me how to sharpen drill bits way back in 1974. He was ever so patient. I screwed up a lot of bits, but when I finally got it, I was on the Moon. He then made me fix the bits I screwed up. Lesson learned. Now, after all those years, it only takes me about 2- 3 minutes and the drill bit is as sharp as new. The art of drilling is more than making a hole. ALWAYS KEEP A COOL TOOL.
There are many ways to do it. I think it's good so many make their way to video. So many people don't know what they could know. I don't think that's good. Best wishes!
Correct... too hot and you draw out the temper and you're dished as the bit will dull quicky once back in use. The rule of thumb is to make sure the bit never gets too hot to hold even at the end of the bit where you're sharpening it. In other words... short grind, long coolant dip, short grind, long coolant dip, short grind, long coolant dip, and so on. Best wishes! - Max Giganteum
Q. How can you ensure both (of the two) cutting faces are the same; as if not the same the one side of the drill will do all the cutting, until it is worn or becomes blunt ?
The easiest way is to use something called a drill point gauge. Technically you could just measure the length of the cutting edges with a machinist scale/rule as well, but the drill point gauge also includes the point angle. He approximated using nuts, but the actual angle is either 118 degrees or 135 degrees depending on the bit.
Buy a drill doctor. So worth it and they do split points also. I am a machinist and when I worked for an aerospace shop we had a multifangled machine to sharpen drill bits but even that thing did not do split points. We eventually hired a guy to stop by every few months who had some sort of machine made out of a lathe and that guy could put a factory level sharp point and do the split points. he was worth it. Now I have the better upgraded drill doctor. One thing about those, get a finer grit grinding wheel to do the carbide bits not the coarse wheel. On any bit from around 1/8 up I can get a darn good point. Smaller bits are dicey and hard to do.
Grind a relief cut on the trailing edges and the bit will cut faster and cooler with less pressure. I often only need to hand tighten the chuck when properly sharpened.
В целом, грубо но эффективно это можно сделать просто при помощи ушм. Лепестковый или шлифовальный диск и пара минут аккуратной подгонки. Можно и на отрезном подправить заточку, просто дольше и чуть менее аккуратно. Зачастую острое сверло необходимо прямо сейчас, а до точила километров 200. На объектах только так и справлялись. Причём сверлили как тонкий металл (до1мм), так и швеллера с толщиной стенки 30-35 мм. Пользуюсь сверлами собственной заточки уже не один десяток лет.
Можно без приспособления наточить хорошо и с приспособлением наточить плохо. Один раз мне принесли цепь от бензопилы и видно что точили на станке, все зубья одинаковой длины и углы заточки совпадают. Только на одной стороне зубья заточены с острым углом, на на другом отрицательный угол заточки, я как увидел такое, в шоке был )))
Always use the correct drill bit for the job, and always use lubrication when necessary or when required such as when drilling masonry and/or metals. Heat will ruin your drill bits no matter how sharp they are. Follow these steps along with this tutorial and you will be using the same set of drill bits for years to come. Awesome tutorial!
0:10 I already turned on a pedestal grinder, sharpened the bit, and turned it off again. Learn how to sharpen a bit, how a bit works, and you will never fear it again.
This one is VERY helpful and I appreciate that you've taken the time to put this together! I have a question. When you used the white marker as a "guide" (1:33 - 2:12) are you rotating the bit as you grind or is this an illusion? If you are (rolling the bit), is there a rule of thumb or a ratio as to the twist and feed? I'm not sure if my question makes sense but basically, do you simply roll it as you grind or do you need to keep a speed in mind so as to match the other cutting face? Thank u
We have become a use it and throw it away society but thankfully we are once again learning what our grandparents and great grandparents did with everything they owned! Maintenance was a daily and necessary part of their daily lives. With the increase in the price of everything we use its way more practical to sharpen our tools rather then throwing them into the scrap metal bin and running to town and buy more. This will be the next great re-discovery of the new age!
@@ronaldpatton5668 Totally agree with you. Over the years i ground 1000s of drill bits from 1/8 stubb drills up to 4", all by hand on a grinder. I've ground old drills off center so they bore slightly bigger from a tail stock and even left handed drills for certain m/c types. So yes you're 100% correct, from a fellow toolmaker!
There's something so satisfying about sharpening drill bits by hand. You should include the importance of ensuring each flank/flute are the same length, so the bit doesn't favor one side of the cutting edge. Thinning the web is also another good step to include.
your vid 's led to an idea of having my wood lathe hold the drill bit. and work the sandpaper set on an angled slide to do the tip grinding. evenly on both sides ... perhaps many other viewers thought of this too. last eve for a bedtime read the 1964 time-life book ' machines' chapter on steam power was read . and the authors cited how an ongoing series of ideas led to improvements over the years.
The tricky bit about sharpening drills without a fixture is getting the cutting edges the same length. I can sharpen a drill freehand well enough but not perfect due to having to estimate the equality of the cutting edges. I didn't see that the video overcomes this estimation.
One way is to put the drill bit in a hand drill, turn on drill and grind against grinding wheel at proper angle, then relieve the cutting edge. Another way is measuring the length of both cutting edges with a small rule and grinding down the short one till it is even with the longer one.
Thank you! Finally someone who knows how to sharpen a bit. A wonderful "experianced" gentleman took me under his wing and taught me this I would have had to live 3 life times to learn. Howard Rilling. He showed me these methods. I took a couple he nuts and welded them together to keep as a gauge. He taught me how to twist and rotate down. I have seen so many people just twist it. You can use those hex nuts to gauge it to make sure the point is centered on the web to make sure a 3/8" drill bit drills a 3/8" hole. He also taught me that when a bit has spun in the chuck and raise a burr, to put the shank on a hard surface and pound the burr back down instead of grinding it off.
0:49 ЭТОТ угол зависит что ты будешь им сверлить. Для мягко металла нужен угол 90 и до 60 градусов. А для стали надо от 110-130 градусов. И тупое занятие это для каждого сверла белать оправку. И не стоит слишком сильно заднюю часть (не рабочую) заваливать.
вы имеете ввиду ,что он подкручивал сверло по продольной? смотрел, что просто реж кромку ставят горизонтально и с упором на палец по наждаку ведут вверх - на себя от реж кромки по задней поверхности ,наклоняя хвостовик вниз с соблюдением угла. Не знаю правильно или понятно написал?
Excellent video! I can show this video to my wife to justify a great reason to buy thousands of dollars of machinery to keep my drill bits sharp. Thanks!
Aaahhh.. But did you learn how to "wag" your finger at the same time..... I can't believe that people think all this measuring and angle finding is how to do it...
This video is a fantastic source of inspiration for viewers! I've browsed through many videos, but the way you present it is truly unique. It's time to experiment with some new projects. Thanks for sharing!
I prefer to do it free-hand with a stand-up belt sander. Years of experience and no jigs or guides, just my own free hands. A rule of thumb taught to me by an old-timer machinist... About the chips from drilling... They tell a story about the speed of the drill... Referring to the color of the chips.... When the chips are BROWN, Slow it down..... When they're BLUE, you're all through... Lesson to learn... Watch your speed, use coolant and watch the color of the chips.. If the chips are brown or blue, SLOW it DOWN...!
I struggled for decades to develop the skill needed to do it this way. It was easier to buy new drill bits. And then I bought a Drill Doctor. Now every drill is razor sharp and they takes seconds to resharpen.
Из под сверла должна идти скручивающаяся стружка и цвета металла, а не цветная кусками, тогда это правильная заточка. Автор пытался сделать доводку и только испортил, заточка такого сверла составляет 30 сёк на глаз, но нужен опыт
This is a great video which shows how to develop a skill. Instead of building a "life hack" or using an "incredible secret". There is nothing wrong with using a simple support as a reference. This sharpening method always works because of its simplicity. But you have to develop the skill and that is great. You always have it avaiable.
Если руки кривые и не оттуда,оно конечно нужно 2 десятка приспособлений и станков) по факту имеем заваленный угол и отожженную подточку,ну ничего пенопласт можно сверлить :)
I've been trying to learn to do this but I can't seem to get the point centered accurately. The drill bits I sharpen drill oversized holes. Although the video addresses the issue of getting the angle correct, it doesn't show anything to help center the point except "eyeballing" it.
I've seen lot's of mart store bits tat are mostly garbage. Love that gold "titanium " coating. I have had to hand sharpen many new bits because the heel was so high the edge had no chance of touching the metal. Go to a tool store and buy good high speed or tool steel bits.😮
![6 Practical Drill bit Sharpening Hacks !!! [Subtitle]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dpPmYYexQJ8/mqdefault.jpg)
Лет 10 наблюдаю точно такие же способы заточки на ютубе. Ролик 2023 года. Новатор ты наш !!
Рукожопость это эпидемия=))
That jig will give a lip relief angle (not the same thing as the tip angle) of 30 degrees, which is too high for most purposes. That relief angle will give a very aggressive cut in softer materials, but a smaller relief angle of about 20 degrees would be preferable for drilling steel, and perhaps as low as about 10 degrees for harder steels.
Надо учиться заправлять сверла на глаз и это самое верное,чем заморачиваться.
На заводе никогда не видел никаких присоблений,просто надо иметь опыт!
I was taught how to sharpen drill bits back in 1966 by hand on the grind stone. After a few you get the "eye" for it. I worked as an auto mechanic for 52 + years and knowing how to sharpen drill bits is a must. All I ever bought for sets at work were Harbor Freight. IMO they are just as good as overpriced drill bit sets and a lot cheaper to replace. Last place I worked one of the mechanics did an excellent job of tearing up his $350 set from Snap-On Tools trying to drill out a broken bolt(which he also seemed to be a expert at snapping bolts and studs). Ten minutes with the cheapo Harbor freight bit I was done. Fancy stuff is great but ya still need common sense.
The proper speed and a lube will make a big diff. on success.
Always better to have spare tools than to have a single high end one. Life time warranties are great but you still haven't got what you need in the time it takes to get a repair or replacement. In a machine shop, that's not a good thing. Gotta be quick.
Fully agree
me too, easy when ya know how. i use my belt sander.
Soooo true. I laugh at people buying more expensive tools which cannot be sharpened. An expensive bit lasts 2 times or 3x times longer. That is what the package says. And the last 30% of the lifetime it does not even cut optimal anymore but you keep using it because it was the expensive type. I learned how to sharpen my drill bits, and never buy any drill larger than 6mm, 1/4" The thinner ones unfortunately break sometimes.
Правил сверла от 2мм до 50, на глаз,... 7 лет отработал слесарем по сборке металлоконструкций и не стандартного оборудования 😊
На достойных предприятиях есть заточные станки и заточники.
Das Schleifen an der Schleifscheibe des Bohrers bedingt zwei Bewegungen gleichzeitig, Drehbewegung und eine Schwenkbewegung damit der Bohrer einen Hinterschliff bekommt. Die Bewegungen habe ich auch bei ihnen gesehen. Den Spitzenwinkel an der Spitze des Bohrers soll 118° betragen, also 59° (60°) seitlich zugestellt zum Schleifstein. Beim Schleifen am Teller ist ihre Bewegung allerdings nur als Drehbewegung ausgeführt gewesen, so dass nach diesem Schleifen der Hinterschliff verloren geht und der Bohrer einen falschen Anschliff bekommt. Ein Tipp noch, ich schleife die Querschneide in beiden Spannuten an der Schleifscheibenkante etwas kleiner bei größeren Bohrern, weil die Kraft zum Bohren ins Volle dadurch geringer ist.
I have become a believer in Harbor Freight stuff. To sharpen drill bits, I use a small HFT belt sander, rest the bit on the tool rest at 67.5°, and gently twist the bit until it is sharpened.
Труднее всего было качать пальчиком из стороны в сторону, но я старался! Теперь все свёрла острее бритвы!
Чувак реально своим пальчиком выбешивает
Я ТЕПЕРЬ СВОИМИ СВЁРЛАМИ БРЕЮСЬ.
Make sure you dont drill or shave any extra holes in your face now 😂.. otherwise you'll be getting that wagging finger too ☝🏿 @@Airton-e7n
так вы забыли сверху вниз им двигать
I’ve done it like this for 35 years, at least the part on the grinder. The part on the sanding discs isn’t necessary. An important bit missing, is the importance of getting both cutting edges exactly the same size. Even a few tenths of a mm difference will decrease the efficiency of a drill bit in a major way.
Sumner Nissen taught me how to sharpen drill bits way back in 1974. He was ever so patient. I screwed up a lot of bits, but when I finally got it, I was on the Moon. He then made me fix the bits I screwed up. Lesson learned. Now, after all those years, it only takes me about 2- 3 minutes and the drill bit is as sharp as new. The art of drilling is more than making a hole. ALWAYS KEEP A COOL TOOL.
👍
Việt Nam có câu “con mắt là mặt đồng cân” .
There are many ways to do it. I think it's good so many make their way to video. So many people don't know what they could know. I don't think that's good. Best wishes!
Спасибо! Прекрасная демонстрация, хороший инструмент, руки золотые. 😊
Great tips there, ive always just eyeballed it, drawing the 60 deg line is a gamechanger alone
the old man who taught me said cooling bit during sharpening was just as important as sharpening. Bobby Cook was one of the best!
Correct... too hot and you draw out the temper and you're dished as the bit will dull quicky once back in use. The rule of thumb is to make sure the bit never gets too hot to hold even at the end of the bit where you're sharpening it. In other words... short grind, long coolant dip, short grind, long coolant dip, short grind, long coolant dip, and so on. Best wishes!
- Max Giganteum
Классно,доходчиво и просто.Успехов.
Q. How can you ensure both (of the two) cutting faces are the same; as if not the same the one side of the drill will do all the cutting, until it is worn or becomes blunt ?
The easiest way is to use something called a drill point gauge. Technically you could just measure the length of the cutting edges with a machinist scale/rule as well, but the drill point gauge also includes the point angle. He approximated using nuts, but the actual angle is either 118 degrees or 135 degrees depending on the bit.
Buy a drill doctor. So worth it and they do split points also. I am a machinist and when I worked for an aerospace shop we had a multifangled machine to sharpen drill bits but even that thing did not do split points. We eventually hired a guy to stop by every few months who had some sort of machine made out of a lathe and that guy could put a factory level sharp point and do the split points. he was worth it. Now I have the better upgraded drill doctor. One thing about those, get a finer grit grinding wheel to do the carbide bits not the coarse wheel. On any bit from around 1/8 up I can get a darn good point. Smaller bits are dicey and hard to do.
Grind a relief cut on the trailing edges and the bit will cut faster and cooler with less pressure. I often only need to hand tighten the chuck when properly sharpened.
WOW!! This video is so educational. Thank you. Definitely will be doing quite a few of these ideas. 🙂
Hello. Do you know why this channel is not uploading videos?
I was done at the finger wag.
So fragile.
Not just me then
😢
Me too....
@@LESLASLESLASaren't you edgy
Loving the universal sign language :)
В целом, грубо но эффективно это можно сделать просто при помощи ушм. Лепестковый или шлифовальный диск и пара минут аккуратной подгонки. Можно и на отрезном подправить заточку, просто дольше и чуть менее аккуратно. Зачастую острое сверло необходимо прямо сейчас, а до точила километров 200. На объектах только так и справлялись. Причём сверлили как тонкий металл (до1мм), так и швеллера с толщиной стенки 30-35 мм. Пользуюсь сверлами собственной заточки уже не один десяток лет.
Отличный мастер. Жаль, что немой. Глухонемые все умеют работать руками
Nad touto metodou zůstává rozum stát. Profesionální brusiči mají oči plné slz smíchu...
K smíchu to moc není, jelikož se tím inspiruje spousta lidí. To je na basu...
Well done! Vids that show people how to save money are the best!
Просто прямые руки и острый глаз без всяких приспособ😉
Можно без приспособления наточить хорошо и с приспособлением наточить плохо. Один раз мне принесли цепь от бензопилы и видно что точили на станке, все зубья одинаковой длины и углы заточки совпадают. Только на одной стороне зубья заточены с острым углом, на на другом отрицательный угол заточки, я как увидел такое, в шоке был )))
В цеху учили точить без всяких приблуд
Always use the correct drill bit for the job, and always use lubrication when necessary or when required such as when drilling masonry and/or metals. Heat will ruin your drill bits no matter how sharp they are. Follow these steps along with this tutorial and you will be using the same set of drill bits for years to come. Awesome tutorial!
You do not use twist drills for masonry you use masonry drills that have tungsten inserts.
0:10 I already turned on a pedestal grinder, sharpened the bit, and turned it off again. Learn how to sharpen a bit, how a bit works, and you will never fear it again.
You don't use lubricants for drilling... you use a cutting fluid. You are correct about excessive heat though. Best wishes!
- Max Giganteum
Bits are for wood just drill for a twist steel drill
Thank you for sharing. Peace.
Thank you!
This one is VERY helpful and I appreciate that you've taken the time to put this together! I have a question. When you used the white marker as a "guide" (1:33 - 2:12) are you rotating the bit as you grind or is this an illusion? If you are (rolling the bit), is there a rule of thumb or a ratio as to the twist and feed? I'm not sure if my question makes sense but basically, do you simply roll it as you grind or do you need to keep a speed in mind so as to match the other cutting face? Thank u
Very good idea well done!!!
We have become a use it and throw it away society but thankfully we are once again learning what our grandparents and great grandparents did with everything they owned! Maintenance was a daily and necessary part of their daily lives. With the increase in the price of everything we use its way more practical to sharpen our tools rather then throwing them into the scrap metal bin and running to town and buy more. This will be the next great re-discovery of the new age!
Если наша планета доживёт до следующего века!😢😢😢
@@ВладимирКорчагин-ш7з Наша планета выживет, но будет ли рядом человечество, я не могу сказать!
sharpen freehand with an angle grinder, when my drill bits are blunt. might not be perfect but they cut/drill very well, big improvement from blunt
Simple trick. Thanks
Понравилась прижимка у сверлилки, никогда такой конструкции не видел, интересно.
Saludos desde Mexico. Nice video.
The large diameter drills are relatively easier to sharpen. How about a video sharpening 1/8 bits.
Thanks
Sharpening a 1/8 bit is no different. 40 years as a toolmaker.
@@ronaldpatton5668 Totally agree with you. Over the years i ground 1000s of drill bits from 1/8 stubb drills up to 4", all by hand on a grinder. I've ground old drills off center so they bore slightly bigger from a tail stock and even left handed drills for certain m/c types. So yes you're 100% correct, from a fellow toolmaker!
Свёрла затачиваются одинаково и в Мексике, и в Африке, и в Японии!Привет из России с Донбасса!
after you get the bits rehappened it would help to use cutting fluid when drilling metals to extend tool life
There's something so satisfying about sharpening drill bits by hand. You should include the importance of ensuring each flank/flute are the same length, so the bit doesn't favor one side of the cutting edge. Thinning the web is also another good step to include.
super impressive nonverbal communication and demonstration !
your vid 's led to an idea of having my wood lathe hold the drill bit. and work the sandpaper set on an angled slide to
do the tip grinding. evenly on both sides ... perhaps many other viewers thought of this too.
last eve for a bedtime read the 1964 time-life book ' machines' chapter on steam power was read . and the authors
cited how an ongoing series of ideas led to improvements over the years.
Great 'how to' video. Have some drill bits in my shop that I can now 'save' and re-use. Thank you for posting.
Hope you make many more good videos. Thank you very much
Great video
Thank you! Really useful video 🎉🎉🎉
Sharpening drill bits must have good skills like my friend, Thank you for sharing
genral 825 drill sharpener jig, perfect sharte quick cheap
I learned the 1st method 38 years ago from an old guy, takes 30 seconds and I've had the same drill bits for years...👍
Your method is also very good, but I will make it easier for everyone, thank you for sharing.❤
Hello. Do you know why this channel is not uploading videos?
Nice I will have try these thanks
Your instructions are very detailed.
Сверла так не точатся тем более по железу
I am so impressed with these fantastic and useful tips!
Excellent ! The best I've seen so far.
Thank you for a roller an instrument is good. With kind regards to you and your channel «Second life of the PET bottles».
Thank You
The tricky bit about sharpening drills without a fixture is getting the cutting edges the same length. I can sharpen a drill freehand well enough but not perfect due to having to estimate the equality of the cutting edges. I didn't see that the video overcomes this estimation.
One way is to put the drill bit in a hand drill, turn on drill and grind against grinding wheel at proper angle, then relieve the cutting edge. Another way is measuring the length of both cutting edges with a small rule and grinding down the short one till it is even with the longer one.
Creative video, thank you :)
Thank you! Finally someone who knows how to sharpen a bit. A wonderful "experianced" gentleman took me under his wing and taught me this I would have had to live 3 life times to learn. Howard Rilling. He showed me these methods. I took a couple he nuts and welded them together to keep as a gauge. He taught me how to twist and rotate down. I have seen so many people just twist it. You can use those hex nuts to gauge it to make sure the point is centered on the web to make sure a 3/8" drill bit drills a 3/8" hole. He also taught me that when a bit has spun in the chuck and raise a burr, to put the shank on a hard surface and pound the burr back down instead of grinding it off.
das hatte ichin meiner Lehre 1976 schon so gelernt🙈🙈
Браво, я тоже с декабря 1975 года стал учеником слесаря.
Use a smaller drill for pilot hole first is the best way to protect your drill bits.
Great tutorial, the welding on the test piece needs some attention 😀 👍
Good job.
Muy bueno, y yo afilando brocas siempre a ojo.
Great video, thanks!
Love the wagging finger 🤘
Great idea. I like to see how you do it. Thank you.
An old man showed me something similar years ago…… now I’m an old man! Great vid sir. Cheers
I have done this freehand for 55 years on bench grinders and angle grinders. Have a bit of faith in the eyeball
Every time the finger popped out I expected him to
show how effective it was at industrial manicures.
0:49 ЭТОТ угол зависит что ты будешь им сверлить. Для мягко металла нужен угол 90 и до 60 градусов. А для стали надо от 110-130 градусов. И тупое занятие это для каждого сверла белать оправку. И не стоит слишком сильно заднюю часть (не рабочую) заваливать.
...yeah!..that's right!...now smarten up!...cheesescrisis!...why do I need to tell you everything again?...😅...
@@JohnViinalass-lc1ow Are you so smart that you teach everyone with your stupidity?
вы имеете ввиду ,что он подкручивал сверло по продольной? смотрел, что просто реж кромку ставят горизонтально и с упором на палец по наждаку ведут вверх - на себя от реж кромки по задней поверхности ,наклоняя хвостовик вниз с соблюдением угла. Не знаю правильно или понятно написал?
Excellent video! I can show this video to my wife to justify a great reason to buy thousands of dollars of machinery to keep my drill bits sharp. Thanks!
Enfin ! Quelqu'un qui sait affûter les forêts.
Very good!
This how I was taught to sharpen blades in mechanic school back in the 70s. Works great!
Aaahhh.. But did you learn how to "wag" your finger at the same time..... I can't believe that people think all this measuring and angle finding is how to do it...
That's real cool, man.
1 угол заточки сверла если быть точным 118° . 2 я в руках заканчиваю сверло за 5- 10 секунд. Это просто навык за 35 лет работы с металлом.
Хорошо бы ему упомянуть про задний угол. Это тоже очень важно.
This video is a fantastic source of inspiration for viewers! I've browsed through many videos, but the way you present it is truly unique. It's time to experiment with some new projects. Thanks for sharing!
The VERY BEST part was the finger saying "NO,NO. !!
Hello. Do you know why this channel is not uploading videos?.
great IF i owned a grinding wheel or a miller saw
I prefer to do it free-hand with a stand-up belt sander. Years of experience and no jigs or guides, just my own free hands.
A rule of thumb taught to me by an old-timer machinist...
About the chips from drilling... They tell a story about the speed of the drill...
Referring to the color of the chips.... When the chips are BROWN, Slow it down..... When they're BLUE, you're all through...
Lesson to learn... Watch your speed, use coolant and watch the color of the chips.. If the chips are brown or blue, SLOW it DOWN...!
Ожидал увидеть какой-то новый способ. А так я и сам умею...
I struggled for decades to develop the skill needed to do it this way. It was easier to buy new drill bits. And then I bought a Drill Doctor. Now every drill is razor sharp and they takes seconds to resharpen.
yeah why learn a skill when you can take that plastic rattle box with you anywhere
Have used my Drill Doctor twice in the last 10 years, still sharp and it lasts.also I stopped loaning out my drill kits and maybe that helped
Из под сверла должна идти скручивающаяся стружка и цвета металла, а не цветная кусками, тогда это правильная заточка. Автор пытался сделать доводку и только испортил, заточка такого сверла составляет 30 сёк на глаз, но нужен опыт
I'll likely continue to take them from work but great video 😂
😅😅😅Это легче всего, но можно пострадать физически и материально! 😅😅😅
Получилась наглядная инструкция по заваливанию угла!👋👋👋
vraiment top merci
ja nicht zu fassen , daß es für so eine Vorstellung fast 3 Millionen Aufrufe gibt .
Learned how to sharpen them on a 3 x24 belt sander. An old school carpenter showed me that.
Сверло - оно.
Поэтому острОЕ, как бритва! ☝🏻
На стройке работал . Точили прямо в люльке на болгарке нормально сверлили любой диаметр от 3-12 . Способ возможно подойдёт для начинающих
За две минуты точиться сломанное сверло, а подправить болгаркой можно за 30 сек.
@@philosof963 Точится, а не "точитЬся".
@@alexanderg8922 Очепятка.😂
Thanks!!!
This is a great video which shows how to develop a skill. Instead of building a "life hack" or using an "incredible secret". There is nothing wrong with using a simple support as a reference. This sharpening method always works because of its simplicity. But you have to develop the skill and that is great. You always have it avaiable.
Если руки кривые и не оттуда,оно конечно нужно 2 десятка приспособлений и станков) по факту имеем заваленный угол и отожженную подточку,ну ничего пенопласт можно сверлить :)
There really IS a science to a "drill bit. Knowing how to free hand grind them is LESS troublesome.
これは凄いですね👍
Très bonne idée 👍 bravo !!!
Ottimo
Te lo copiero senz'altro
I really like your sander set-up! Care to share how to make it? The motor sounds like a bench grinder/polisher.
I've been trying to learn to do this but I can't seem to get the point centered accurately. The drill bits I sharpen drill oversized holes. Although the video addresses the issue of getting the angle correct, it doesn't show anything to help center the point except "eyeballing" it.
Excellent, going to repair my old motorcycle side panels this way, cheers 👍
Start from the back of the edge and go forward toward to the cutting edge. Better control! Anti clockwise.
I've seen lot's of mart store bits tat are mostly garbage. Love that gold "titanium " coating. I have had to hand sharpen many new bits because the heel was so high the edge had no chance of touching the metal. Go to a tool store and buy good high speed or tool steel bits.😮
cool interesting nice insight
Back when I was learning in 1905 we used a foot powered wet wheel good memories
Super