I'm the owner of Halk Marine Fabrication & Design. As a naval architect and owner of a marine fabrication business specializing in custom boat fuel tanks, you 100% nailed it. This is my first time seeing your video, but we've posted almost identical advise on our website and to customers about proper tank installation. Great job, you're well informed. We have instant tank pricing including freight on our website if anyone is interested.
Great point on closed cell corrosion, extremely important, my 1973 ish 23 sportcraft tank held water next to the foam as the foam broke loose over the years the water was trapped and the tank developed hundreds of pinhole leaks. An explosion was adverted when I smelled gas one day took off the deck cover and gas was everywhere. Had the tank replaced and installed it similar to the way you did...Thank God on this one for sure. I don't think a lot of boaters are aware of this problem figuring its ok since they built it that way, BIG MISTAKE even today.Good job on the vid!
Neoprene has carbon in it, which is conductive. Dissimilar metals in an electrolyte creat galvanic corrosion. Which looks like pits and gouges. Make sure you face seal any pads totally. Aluminum when corroding is self protecting, by forming aluminum oxide. Very little of the metal actually is lost to oxide and relatively smooth. As occurs on outboard motors. This is the usual atmospheric type corrosion, but not galvanic corrosion. If you can get vinyl pads, all the better. My ‘92 Grady White had 1/8 inch thick strips of neoprene. The tank was coated with a very light primer. I removed the tanks in 2008 to clean and inspect, the only places where galvanic damage occurred was under the strips. On the bottom and top. Not deep enough to penetrate the 1/8 inch thick tank. I cleaned out the pits, cleaned up the strips across a belt sander to roughen a bit, then fully faced with Life-seal, reinstalled. In Feb 2021 I removed the same tanks to inspect, absolutely no corrosion under the pads in the bottom and no further damage to the existing pits. On the top, where I did add neoprene under a cross brace, there was some galvanic damage, say about 5 square inches total, none of it deep enough to matter. This area I didn’t face seal in 2008. I used a Dremel carefully to clean out the pits. I may apply a primer first. When I reinstall there will be no contact at this point with any bracing, changing the design fro original. I retired the small aux tank really don’t need it, will go back with the big 152 gal. tank only.
After reading a bunch of articles on installing my aluminum tank, I can say this video offers sound advice.. I also raised my tank out of the bilge a bit by sitting the neoprene pads (every 12-16" on trex board to allow water to drain underneath where it would have otherwise sat in contact with the tank. I attached the neoprene rubber using Life caulk (or use 5200 or 4500) to the bottom of the tank so no water can get in. My tank was coal tar epoxy coated, which is worth requesting by the builder or coating the tank yourself if that's not an option. I actually sanded the rubber and light scuffing on the coal tar epoxy for better adhesion between the two and removed sanding residue first. reminder to electrically ground out the tank to the negative of the battery terminal or common ground, and never use bronze fittings on aluminum tanks for shutoffs and barbs as the dissimilar metal will eat the tank in short time due to electrolysis. I was told stainless is ok. thank you for the video!
The perfect video for the information I was looking for! I was wondering where the green wire went from your tank to the filler hose. The boat I bought was from a guy that already had things torn apart some what so figuring out where it went back to has been fun thank you for putting this out there.
West Marine, ...sells Tinned Copper Strand. it's copper wire with a coating of tin, lasts forever!!! Especially on salt water trailers !!! I've used it for years on my trailer and boat !!! also use a brand of ""self amalgamating tape"" from Lows or Home Dippo, on all your open wire connections! last for ever!! You pull and stretch this tape before wrapping around almost anything, as you wrap it it binds to itself to form a solid rubber fused wrap, will never unwrap, is water tight, as it becomes one solid plug.......cut it with a razor to remove. It's as clean as the day you wrapped the wire.......
DIY, good advice on the tank - but do check the rubber bedding strips to make sure there is no 'free carbon' in the mix? Carbon is a metal with a galvanic differential to aluminum so you'd be making a battery if you used the wrong rubber to bed. The idea of 5200 as bedding/bonding isolation is sound but... the areas where that adhesive is used should be sanded or etched so the mill scale is gone- mill scale is galvanic and retains water vapor- not liquid but will promote corrosion flowers. All marine tanks should have #1 a water bottoms sump for pump out of 'tank bottoms' - OR a down comer fuel draw line that is very tight tot he bottom so the bottoms can be picked up into the fuel filter bowl(s). Also this tank is not etched so it will begin external and probably internal corrosion in few years- the explanation of crevice corrosion is accurate- but didn't include the mill scale which does the same thing- and tank bottoms will become De-aereated and acidic too. All 5000 series aluminum tanks should be acid etched, rinsed and flushed extensively before installation. It is best practice to slope the to in a camber or 'shed' style not to be flat like t his one- where condensate can collect on the tank top. Also fuel fill downcomer should got to within 1/2 diameter of pipe to the bottom plate to avoid burping, back slop on fill and bubbling fuel.
Still havent put tank in mako 224 working on coffin hatch,access hatch .Thinking of installing some type of drain in coffin bottom along each side lowest point tee in the back to one flex hose to a 12 volt pump to external location to dump after each use
Working on my mako 224 fuel tank,getting rid of all the foam.thought of using starboard under tank using 3m 4200 to secure to floor and tank painting fuel compartment with flex liquid white to seal compartment for waterproofing. Painting tank with etching primer then painting with rustoleum marine gray
Good video on Aluminum tank install. However, in my experience the term used for lack of oxygen due to organic materials and foamed-in insulation touching the outside of an Aluminum Fuel tank, and usually holding moisture, is called Poultice Corrosion. As applied to Aluminum Fuel Tanks, crevice corrosion falls under construction of the tank and what to avoid in order not to trap debris and moisture between aluminum surfaces. Usually addressed by having welded joints using a continuous smooth bead, leaving no crevices to trap moisture. For marine corrosion reference I generally use ABYC standard training and "The Boatowner's Guide to Corrosion" by Everett Collier.
I notice your "drain" pipe is at the top (back) of the compartment. Did you make a new drain hole on the bottom? (I'm replacing the tank on an 84 mako 20c. It seemed that it was foamed in, with a built in foam canal leading to that drain pipe on the top back). I would like to try your method, but how did you address this drainage issue?
DIY Boater, aside from the two hose clamps on the main (large fuel hose) did you do apply any form of sealant inside the hose to get a good leak proof seal, or are the hose clamps enough?
good video, educational, I have question please comment, recently purchased a preowned 28.9 SEA SPORT on the first fueling had a very bad, scary experience, a very strong smell of fuel in the cabin, evidently the tank may have a hole in it. am not very experience with this problem therefore any advise will be appreciated, plan to replace the tank with a stainless steel, is that a good approach? the deck will need to be cut in order to reach the tank.. help will be much appreciated
Rds in perry Florida is a great place to get a tank I just had them make one for my 1997 Cape Horn 19 a 80 gallon tank cost me 1k and they built it to my spec with a screw in fuel sender way better than the old 5 screw fuel senders
I bought the boat in November. The guy I bought it off of said the original owner replaced the deck and notice the tank had a lot of rust so he pulled it didn't want to buy another so he just put the new deck in and just used a top deck tank. Plus side is it was nice to know I'm only the 3rd owner not the 10th lol. Should I send u my email over this?
@DIYBoaters Do you have a vent? And if so, where do I purchase one? Thanks. (trying to install an aluminum tank but it heats up and fuel goes out the carbs)
I am ripping through electric fuel pumps on my boat. I believe my anti siphon valve is the culprit. Some people say toss it, some people say dont be a fool. If my fuel line never drops below the tank, do I need it/ Do you have any advice for using an electric fuel pump on a marine system?
I see your fill has a 90 degree angle on it. I'm trying to refit my boat tank and putting a bend like that is my best option but I heard it slows down filling, and even stops frequency. Did you have any issues like that? Thank you!
Watched both videos- great job! Ive got my coffin clean and am right where you were on the first vid. Your thoughts on tank corrosion and not using foam are insightful.Where did you get your new tank? Have you had any problem with the tank shifting or screws loosening without the foam over time?
no problems with fastener just use large enough fasteners for the job. I had the tank made at a local welding shop in st petersburg fl just craigslist in the services section and search for aluminum tanks Thanks for watching
great video- I have found that I've got multiple small punctate corrosion holes in my tank and need to replace it. Do you have any videos on throttle /steering disassembly to remove the center console to get to the tank? I have a 18 foot 1984 Mako
Sorry I didnt see this sooner, but just look under the center console you probably have cable steering (safe-T) so just pull the pin or bolt and turn the steering wheel until the cable is fully out of the helm. then bust open you controls should be a cover plate on one side and disconnect the cables it is pretty self explanatory once you get into it.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I'm in the process of installing a gas tank for a home made boat. I notice that you have what appears to be a ground wire connected to the tank and it's located between the fill line and the engine gas line. This may be a dumb question but where is the other end of the ground connected?
+Lou Garcia sorry, missed your question thats the fuel fill ground or "bonding" wire its a good idea if you are using a metallic fuel fill. . if you are using a plastic fill no need
Any metal part has to be grounded out. So the filler cap and the bonding wire must be returned to the engine block or to the negative battery terminal. This is to prevent sparks. As a side note take this very seriously. I was up at Flaming Gorge two years ago, and a boat blew up. Yes KABOOM! People were thrown into the water. I do not work at the fueling station but I knew how to run the barge with the fire pump and me and my nephew put out the boat before it burnt the whole marina down. The people did not have a blower that worked. But the grounding is very important to prevent sparks, could save your life one day..
did you get the boat with no tank and now you don't know what dimensions the tank should be? or you don't know where it should go? what exactly is the problem?
I have a 1993 Wellcraft V21 and im getting some gas on top of my tank and sender unit. I'm trying to see if its my hoses that are connected to the filler neck that maybe have some corrosion, because It only happens when I fill or when I just leave the gas dock and start running. Do you have any suggestions on what to do, and what gas hoses I should use ?
question my boat mechanic guy is saying to use foam to hold my tank down im currently using a tank that's removeable but I wanna use my inboard tank y cant I foam to hold it down?
Thats how most people say to do it.... but as I repeated in the video there is something called crevice corrosion that occours when water is held up against aluminum and causes premature corrosion and end to the tank
I'm the owner of Halk Marine Fabrication & Design. As a naval architect and owner of a marine fabrication business specializing in custom boat fuel tanks, you 100% nailed it. This is my first time seeing your video, but we've posted almost identical advise on our website and to customers about proper tank installation. Great job, you're well informed. We have instant tank pricing including freight on our website if anyone is interested.
Great point on closed cell corrosion, extremely important, my 1973 ish 23 sportcraft tank held water next to the foam as the foam broke loose over the years the water was trapped and the tank developed hundreds of pinhole leaks. An explosion was adverted when I smelled gas one day took off the deck cover and gas was everywhere. Had the tank replaced and installed it similar to the way you did...Thank God on this one for sure. I don't think a lot of boaters are aware of this problem figuring its ok since they built it that way, BIG MISTAKE even today.Good job on the vid!
Neoprene has carbon in it, which is conductive. Dissimilar metals in an electrolyte creat galvanic corrosion. Which looks like pits and gouges. Make sure you face seal any pads totally. Aluminum when corroding is self protecting, by forming aluminum oxide. Very little of the metal actually is lost to oxide and relatively smooth. As occurs on outboard motors. This is the usual atmospheric type corrosion, but not galvanic corrosion. If you can get vinyl pads, all the better. My ‘92 Grady White had 1/8 inch thick strips of neoprene. The tank was coated with a very light primer. I removed the tanks in 2008 to clean and inspect, the only places where galvanic damage occurred was under the strips. On the bottom and top. Not deep enough to penetrate the 1/8 inch thick tank. I cleaned out the pits, cleaned up the strips across a belt sander to roughen a bit, then fully faced with Life-seal, reinstalled. In Feb 2021 I removed the same tanks to inspect, absolutely no corrosion under the pads in the bottom and no further damage to the existing pits. On the top, where I did add neoprene under a cross brace, there was some galvanic damage, say about 5 square inches total, none of it deep enough to matter. This area I didn’t face seal in 2008. I used a Dremel carefully to clean out the pits. I may apply a primer first. When I reinstall there will be no contact at this point with any bracing, changing the design fro original. I retired the small aux tank really don’t need it, will go back with the big 152 gal. tank only.
After reading a bunch of articles on installing my aluminum tank, I can say this video offers sound advice.. I also raised my tank out of the bilge a bit by sitting the neoprene pads (every 12-16" on trex board to allow water to drain underneath where it would have otherwise sat in contact with the tank. I attached the neoprene rubber using Life caulk (or use 5200 or 4500) to the bottom of the tank so no water can get in. My tank was coal tar epoxy coated, which is worth requesting by the builder or coating the tank yourself if that's not an option. I actually sanded the rubber and light scuffing on the coal tar epoxy for better adhesion between the two and removed sanding residue first. reminder to electrically ground out the tank to the negative of the battery terminal or common ground, and never use bronze fittings on aluminum tanks for shutoffs and barbs as the dissimilar metal will eat the tank in short time due to electrolysis. I was told stainless is ok. thank you for the video!
The perfect video for the information I was looking for! I was wondering where the green wire went from your tank to the filler hose. The boat I bought was from a guy that already had things torn apart some what so figuring out where it went back to has been fun thank you for putting this out there.
West Marine, ...sells Tinned Copper Strand. it's copper wire with a coating of tin, lasts forever!!! Especially on salt water trailers !!! I've used it for years on my trailer and boat !!! also use a brand of ""self amalgamating tape"" from Lows or Home Dippo, on all your open wire connections! last for ever!! You pull and stretch this tape before wrapping around almost anything, as you wrap it it binds to itself to form a solid rubber fused wrap, will never unwrap, is water tight, as it becomes one solid plug.......cut it with a razor to remove. It's as clean as the day you wrapped the wire.......
I would have coated the tank....coal tar epoxy (3-5 coats) or better. But other than that this guys offers good very informed advice.
DIY, good advice on the tank - but do check the rubber bedding strips to make sure there is no 'free carbon' in the mix? Carbon is a metal with a galvanic differential to aluminum so you'd be making a battery if you used the wrong rubber to bed.
The idea of 5200 as bedding/bonding isolation is sound but... the areas where that adhesive is used should be sanded or etched so the mill scale is gone- mill scale is galvanic and retains water vapor- not liquid but will promote corrosion flowers.
All marine tanks should have #1 a water bottoms sump for pump out of 'tank bottoms' - OR a down comer fuel draw line that is very tight tot he bottom so the bottoms can be picked up into the fuel filter bowl(s).
Also this tank is not etched so it will begin external and probably internal corrosion in few years- the explanation of crevice corrosion is accurate- but didn't include the mill scale which does the same thing- and tank bottoms will become De-aereated and acidic too.
All 5000 series aluminum tanks should be acid etched, rinsed and flushed extensively before installation. It is best practice to slope the to in a camber or 'shed' style not to be flat like t his one- where condensate can collect on the tank top.
Also fuel fill downcomer should got to within 1/2 diameter of pipe to the bottom plate to avoid burping, back slop on fill and bubbling fuel.
Still havent put tank in mako 224 working on coffin hatch,access hatch .Thinking of installing some type of drain in coffin bottom along each side lowest point tee in the back to one flex hose to a 12 volt pump to external location to dump after each use
Working on my mako 224 fuel tank,getting rid of all the foam.thought of using starboard under tank using 3m 4200 to secure to floor and tank painting fuel compartment with flex liquid white to seal compartment for waterproofing. Painting tank with etching primer then painting with rustoleum marine gray
What is the green wire conected to fuel hose?, ground?
A little red thread lock on the clamps is also a good idea
Apply after u tighten them
yes that is correct.It is completely sealed in with a rubber gasket. Thanks for watching
Good video on Aluminum tank install. However, in my experience the term used for lack of oxygen due to organic materials and foamed-in insulation touching the outside of an Aluminum Fuel tank, and usually holding moisture, is called Poultice Corrosion. As applied to Aluminum Fuel Tanks, crevice corrosion falls under construction of the tank and what to avoid in order not to trap debris and moisture between aluminum surfaces. Usually addressed by having welded joints using a continuous smooth bead, leaving no crevices to trap moisture. For marine corrosion reference I generally use ABYC standard training and "The Boatowner's Guide to Corrosion" by Everett Collier.
I notice your "drain" pipe is at the top (back) of the compartment. Did you make a new drain hole on the bottom?
(I'm replacing the tank on an 84 mako 20c. It seemed that it was foamed in, with a built in foam canal leading to that drain pipe on the top back). I would like to try your method, but how did you address this drainage issue?
I sanded mine then treated with aluma prep and alodine then coated with epoxy. Also you could spray it with corrosion block
minor note, awab hose clamps are better for below deck fuel lines, non perforated (stronger) and have rounded edges
Is there another way to hold the tank down, without the tabs/screws into the stringers?
GOOD VID, HOWEVER, I JUST DID MY 4TH BOAT REDO. I used 3 commercial restaurant grade drain rubber mats under the tank.
Question ground or bonding your tank to the fuel filler how is that wire connected to the filler neck?
DIY Boater, aside from the two hose clamps on the main (large fuel hose) did you do apply any form of sealant inside the hose to get a good leak proof seal, or are the hose clamps enough?
If you 5200 to the boat, how will you get the tank out if it needs to be replaced again?
good video, educational, I have question please comment, recently purchased a preowned 28.9 SEA SPORT on the first fueling had a very bad, scary experience, a very strong smell of fuel in the cabin, evidently the tank may have a hole in it. am not very experience with this problem therefore any advise will be appreciated, plan to replace the tank with a stainless steel, is that a good approach? the deck will need to be cut in order to reach the tank.. help will be much appreciated
Rds in perry Florida is a great place to get a tank I just had them make one for my 1997 Cape Horn 19 a 80 gallon tank cost me 1k and they built it to my spec with a screw in fuel sender way better than the old 5 screw fuel senders
I bought the boat in November. The guy I bought it off of said the original owner replaced the deck and notice the tank had a lot of rust so he pulled it didn't want to buy another so he just put the new deck in and just used a top deck tank. Plus side is it was nice to know I'm only the 3rd owner not the 10th lol. Should I send u my email over this?
@DIYBoaters
Do you have a vent? And if so, where do I purchase one? Thanks. (trying to install an aluminum tank but it heats up and fuel goes out the carbs)
I am ripping through electric fuel pumps on my boat. I believe my anti siphon valve is the culprit. Some people say toss it, some people say dont be a fool. If my fuel line never drops below the tank, do I need it/ Do you have any advice for using an electric fuel pump on a marine system?
I see your fill has a 90 degree angle on it. I'm trying to refit my boat tank and putting a bend like that is my best option but I heard it slows down filling, and even stops frequency. Did you have any issues like that? Thank you!
Watched both videos- great job!
Ive got my coffin clean and am right where you were on the first vid.
Your thoughts on tank corrosion and not using foam are insightful.Where did you get your new tank?
Have you had any problem with the tank shifting or screws loosening without the foam over time?
no problems with fastener just use large enough fasteners for the job.
I had the tank made at a local welding shop in st petersburg fl
just craigslist in the services section and search for aluminum tanks
Thanks for watching
That pvc pipe that you have running, is that encase the area floods with water and they act as a drain?
great video- I have found that I've got multiple small punctate corrosion holes in my tank and need to replace it. Do you have any videos on throttle /steering disassembly to remove the center console to get to the tank?
I have a 18 foot 1984 Mako
Sorry I didnt see this sooner, but just look under the center console you probably have cable steering (safe-T) so just pull the pin or bolt and turn the steering wheel until the cable is fully out of the helm. then bust open you controls should be a cover plate on one side and disconnect the cables it is pretty self explanatory once you get into it.
Where did you get this tank from
OK did you say you only use neoprene rubber only on the 4 corner or all on the bottom. Did you use any 2x4 to on it down too?
awesome video! did you use waterproof paint on your tank and what are those pipe around ur tank for, for venterlation?
+Sokthea Seng no paint on the tank, some people use a black epoxy paint but I prefer no coating, some of those pipes were conduit for old wiring.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I'm in the process of installing a gas tank for a home made boat. I notice that you have what appears to be a ground wire connected to the tank and it's located between the fill line and the engine gas line. This may be a dumb question but where is the other end of the ground connected?
+Lou Garcia sorry, missed your question thats the fuel fill ground or "bonding" wire its a good idea if you are using a metallic fuel fill. . if you are using a plastic fill no need
+DIY Boaters where did you connect the bonding ground wire?? To the fuel full cap in the gunnel?
Any metal part has to be grounded out. So the filler cap and the bonding wire must be returned to the engine block or to the negative battery terminal. This is to prevent sparks. As a side note take this very seriously. I was up at Flaming Gorge two years ago, and a boat blew up. Yes KABOOM! People were thrown into the water. I do not work at the fueling station but I knew how to run the barge with the fire pump and me and my nephew put out the boat before it burnt the whole marina down. The people did not have a blower that worked. But the grounding is very important to prevent sparks, could save your life one day..
I plan on doing mine it's a 1986 four winns 190 horizon. Really can not find any dimensions on where to start.
did you get the boat with no tank and now you don't know what dimensions the tank should be? or you don't know where it should go? what exactly is the problem?
I want to add auxiliary tanks, what is your best. Suggestion to install these tanks?
OK then you say you only use neoprene rubber only on the 4 corner or all on the bottom.and you use treated 2x4 to chimmy around the tank?
did you 5200 the rubber directly on the fiberglass on the bottom of the boat directly?
Awesome...thank you. What kind of boat do you have?
That was a 82 mako 20'B I now have a chris craft 36, I have had many boats
I have a 1993 Wellcraft V21 and im getting some gas on top of my tank and sender unit. I'm trying to see if its my hoses that are connected to the filler neck that maybe have some corrosion, because It only happens when I fill or when I just leave the gas dock and start running. Do you have any suggestions on what to do, and what gas hoses I should use ?
+Tom Scialpi sounds like a leak in the fuel fill tube for sure. Always use marine grade fuel lines. Like SHIELDS brand.
Thanks for the tip, I won't put any foam in :-)
Where is the tank physically located in the boat?
what about using sea cast to fill in areas...
Hey bud I have a few questions about installing a tank on my boat. What kind of boat are u installing this tank on?
that is a 1982 mako 20b what questions do you have?
What's that black wire for near the green ? Can't fine any for mine.
param cooper it’s your ground wire
Where did you get the tank?? It is exactly like the one in my 1973 Mako I have lookied everywhere for one
For the look of it seems to be custom made find you're self a local shop that fabricates one for you i wish you would be close to us
question my boat mechanic guy is saying to use foam to hold my tank down im currently using a tank that's
removeable but I wanna use my inboard tank y cant I foam to hold it down?
Thats how most people say to do it.... but as I repeated in the video there is something called crevice corrosion that occours when water is held up against aluminum and causes premature corrosion and end to the tank
DIY Boaters az
We're ur tank sits is kinda like where mine would fit. Any way I could email you the pics of my boat maybe u can u would know ? Thanks for replying
sure email them
How did you remove the aluminum fill pipe and vent?
Where did you buy the tank?
I am also looking for a tank for a 19 Mako I may have to have one built
very expensive
question my tank iis roughly about that size whats the cost it?
400$ more or less if you go aluminum a plastic tank will be cheaper if you can find one that sort of fits
Paint the tank with coal tar epoxy before installation.
Great information, thank you.
You should grease the whole tank. That would save it. And polish it.
looks great
very good
Never epoxy the tank to the boat. It will need to come out eventually. There are other less permanent solutions. Epoxy the neoprene to the tank, sure.
I was told all metallic components should be grounded to the batteries negative.
That was told by the tank builder
OK then you say you only use neoprene rubber only on the 4 corner or all on the bottom.and you use treated 2x4 to chimmy around the tank?