Very informative, thanks. I think I put a steam valves in my hydronic system, but works fine as you indicate. No danger of freezing as I’m not shutting all the radiators in the apartment, just one.
Perusing Gorton's website, and feeding my new 12 step addiction to your videos, it occurs to me that it might be a fools errand to simply swap out an air vent on a steam rad. It feels to me that I need a load calc (at least roughly) on the room, the potential BTU output of the rad, the DESIRED BTU output of the rad, and then an appropriate vent size for that room? (whether Hoffman, Gorton etc) Is that right? And even then wouldn't it make sense for energy management and zone control always use a Varivalve type valve for room control? I'm getting the impression that people underestimate how appropriate venting is. Am I wrong?
There are a lot of ideas in your questions. But first of all, thank you for your support! Now, I would say, try not to get too bogged down in the details. Often, the hard work of sizing the radiator was done long ago. Usually, but not always, it was oversized. Usually the rule was 70* inside when it was 0* outside and sometimes with the window open due to the last pandemic of 1918. So, I would vent the steam mains like crazy with big vents like the Gorton#2, and use relativity small vents for the radiators. Often, I like to use the Vent Rite #1 adjustable to dial in comfort. I would avoid the Verivalve for...reasons. It's a process of trial and error, but at the end of the day, it's about comfort..
Nice Gordon, It’s those little differences of water and steam that are easy to just assume. Truth is a valve ain’t a valve unless it’s for the right medium, not the pipe thread. I just always assumed globe shapes were steam. But we both know when you call the supply house you better clearly make the distinction.
Thank you for your insight. I've gone to the radiator valve bins in warehouses and pulled valves that look like steam valves, only to find that little hole in the washer. In fairness, it's easy to overlook.
If you mean the male pipe threads on the spud and the female threads in the valve body as shown, then yes, they are all standard national pipe threads or "npt".
@@gordonschweizer5154 Thank you for that response. I purchased a hot water radiator valve to install on an old radiator and the threads on the spud nut on the radiator didn't match the threads on the valve body.
@@gwsjr1 The threads that make up the union between the spud and the valve body are not npt and unique to each valve. You are going to need to remove the old spud from the radiator and install the new spud that comes with your new valve back into the radiator. The male ends of that spud should be standard male pipe threads.
How about the valve that you mention in another video (stop angle NEEDLE valve )I suppose that because of the needle it can be used as a throttle valve??
@@josephrodriguez1540 Single Pipe Steam gets the fullest of the full open as you so correctly state. Two Pipe Steam generally works best with some kind of throttling action from the valve.
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This is so useful and very little info was otherwise available regarding steam valves having a larger throat and the ability to fully close. Thanks!
Thank you! Just bought a house with old valves, 4:00 - 4:20 explained exactly what is going on in my radiators.
Glad it helped!
Never old enough to learn. Thank you.
You are most welcome!
Informative Detailed identification of different valve designs
when it comes to steam you are a wealth of knowledge!
Thanks! I get a lot from TH-cam, so this is my way of giving back.
Thank you I been looking for this and really just anything about radiators
You're welcome!
Anything you'd like me to do a video on?
Another great explanation. Thank you for spending the time.
You are quite welcome!
Interesting presentation of valves and how shapes play a significant role in how the steam behaves.
Thanks!
Very informative, thanks.
I think I put a steam valves in my hydronic system, but works fine as you indicate. No danger of freezing as I’m not shutting all the radiators in the apartment, just one.
Excellent. Where is the best place to buy the proper steam valve?
I would try a plumbing supply house that sells the Legend brand steam valves.
Perusing Gorton's website, and feeding my new 12 step addiction to your videos, it occurs to me that it might be a fools errand to simply swap out an air vent on a steam rad. It feels to me that I need a load calc (at least roughly) on the room, the potential BTU output of the rad, the DESIRED BTU output of the rad, and then an appropriate vent size for that room? (whether Hoffman, Gorton etc) Is that right? And even then wouldn't it make sense for energy management and zone control always use a Varivalve type valve for room control? I'm getting the impression that people underestimate how appropriate venting is. Am I wrong?
There are a lot of ideas in your questions. But first of all, thank you for your support!
Now, I would say, try not to get too bogged down in the details.
Often, the hard work of sizing the radiator was done long ago.
Usually, but not always, it was oversized. Usually the rule was 70* inside when it was 0* outside and sometimes with the window open due to the last pandemic of 1918.
So, I would vent the steam mains like crazy with big vents like the Gorton#2, and use relativity small vents for the radiators. Often, I like to use the Vent Rite #1 adjustable to dial in comfort. I would avoid the Verivalve for...reasons. It's a process of trial and error, but at the end of the day, it's about comfort..
I am a boiler operator for 40 years.
Network with others and open minded is the secret. Always open to learn...
Nice Gordon,
It’s those little differences of water and steam that are easy to just assume. Truth is a valve ain’t a valve unless it’s for the right medium, not the pipe thread. I just always assumed globe shapes were steam. But we both know when you call the supply house you better clearly make the distinction.
Thank you for your insight.
I've gone to the radiator valve bins in warehouses and pulled valves that look like steam valves, only to find that little hole in the washer. In fairness, it's easy to overlook.
You are the best
Thank you for these tips
You are too kind.
Thank you.
Concise information
Thank you!
Are they three-quarter size thread? U said inch and a half.?
I may have mis-spoke.
Sorry about that.
What is the time on the video when I said that?
No tiny Pinhole in the older model?
Sometimes not.
I think the construction was "loose" enough at first to allow minimum flow when shut.
Nice job
Thanks!
Are threads on a hot water system different from a steam system?
If you mean the male pipe threads on the spud and the female threads in the valve body as shown, then yes, they are all standard national pipe threads or "npt".
@@gordonschweizer5154
Thank you for that response. I purchased a hot water radiator valve to install on an old radiator and the threads on the spud nut on the radiator didn't match the threads on the valve body.
@@gwsjr1 The threads that make up the union between the spud and the valve body are not npt and unique to each valve.
You are going to need to remove the old spud from the radiator and install the new spud that comes with your new valve back into the radiator. The male ends of that spud should be standard male pipe threads.
Absolutely right, 💯open = No water hammer. 👍.
Exactly! It cannot be said often enough.
How about the valve that you mention in another video (stop angle NEEDLE valve )I suppose that because of the needle it can be used as a throttle valve??
@@josephrodriguez1540 Single Pipe Steam gets the fullest of the full open as you so correctly state.
Two Pipe Steam generally works best with some kind of throttling action from the valve.
@@gordonschweizer5154 thanks.