That is a great technique to deal with those steam valves (like I have!). Bob, thank you very much for going through all the details. I am now ready for the next one!
Bob, thanks for sharing your technique on how to remove those valves. The advice on just moving radiator back and forth while tightening valve is so helpful. You have many years of experience and I appreciate your knowledge.
Growing up on the North Shore of LI, those convectors were very popular. As kids growing up, after a day out playing in the snow 🏂 we would take off all our wet outerwear and carefully place it over the top of those convevtors . An hour later, all dry!😀
I have in fact used this method, Just be patient and remember This radiator is very old. Darn nice work. I’m in the industry 36 years….. and I love it. I use a spud wrench to install the new valve. Thank goodness no issues.
Very nice job and one very happy customer. Could have gone wrong in so many ways with someone who didn't know what they were really doing. Luckily they called you👍
nice procedure, I've used it before on rusted nuts, also liked the hint of using the wrench handle to screw in the new spud. Like a mechanic that can think on his feet.
Hi Bob, I wanted to thank you for teaching me this technique for removing valves and spuds by cutting them out, it is a SUPERPOWER! Since watching this video I was able to successfully remove two steam pipe fittings, and one radiator valve in my home, all of which would have been impossible for me if I didn't learn this technique from you. Your videos are making a difference in lots of people's lives.
Nice video and technique It would have been nice to clean up the mess created by all this work with a vacuum first before putting everything back together.
Great videos! Have you seen many steam radiators with L threads. I ordered a refurbished radiator and a new valve. The radiator had L threads and the value was sent without the spud with a locking nut, only a 1" x 2" L thread nipple. My plumber tried to find a 1"spud with a locking nut but with no success. The radiator vendor stated they are not made in that size anymore. Have you had this experience?
You do have to watch on the imported valves ! When you put the spud in with your wrench * or spud wrench < The 2 little dimples inside the spud will break on the importes * Great technic from 1 plumber to another retired plumber ! I will subscribe! Peace !
No question about it! Many years ago in a Galaxy Far, Far away my go to valves were Hammond & American valves. Both made in America, my have times changed!
I know you probably hear this a lot, but i just want to say thank you for your video's really been on a binge watching all your stuff. good work and God speed.
Thx for the video. Just did one. Exactly how you said to do it. Took much longer than you. But I was worried I’d hit the threads. Either I turned the valve on the threads one more turn or the pipe dropped a little, it was hard to get the spud in. Picked up the back end and that helped slip it in.
Hey Bob, I live right across the pond in NJ... Anyways, I had one stuck so bad. After I watched your video I was not convinced because it was really stuck . When I went out to the hardware store to get the Cold Chisel, 5/8 actually....a couple taps and BANG .... it came out. Your exact steps worked out great. I was so relived!!!! I've learned something today. Thank You so much!!!!
Your plumbing is very well done but why do you leave all your chips from cutting on the floor under the radiator etc. Would'nt it be easier to clean that before you put it all together?
Ok so these vids have been priceless. I was able to change radiator valves on 7 radiatorain my new property . However last night I was unsuccessful with the 7th one. After changing it, it still leaked from where the spud meets the radiator. Now i did notice what looked like a knick or irregularity on the lip/outer most thread in the radiator, but im almost sure I didnt nick it with my sawzall like i usually do. So at first i only put tape and megalock on the spud being that i didnt knick the radiator thread. After i saw the leak, i opened it back up, removed the tape on the spud and put lampwick, tape and blue block. Tightened it up confidently, thinking it was fixed now. I checked about 30 minutes later, STILL LEAKING!. I have knicked plenty of threads with othwr valve chamges, and the lampwick, taprle, blue block method always works like a charm. Im confused as to why this keeps leaking and i didnt even knick it. I felt very defeated and unaccomplished last night. Needless to say, I closed the valve on that radiator and told my tenant to keep it off till I can get back to try again. Im not sure what I can do to make a difference though
Have you considered using an internal pipe wrench to install the new union? Is there even room inside for it, considering the convector? Those mini-12 volt HackZalls from Milwaukee are my favourite, most used power tool.
Most posts I see say not to use thread sealant on union. I understand that it shouldn't be necessary but also don't see why it would cause a problem to use it. What's your reason for using it there?
A. That's how I was taught from the beginning and B. It will fill in any imperfections not visible to the human eye. Finally just good practice to prevent any unnecessary call backs.
Pipe dope is as much a lubricant as it is a sealant. It allows the metal to metal threads to tighten without seizing / galling and to come apart easier later. Unions seal on their smooth tapered surfaces (much like flare fittings), so pipe dope isn’t really necessary on the mating surfaces, but it doesn’t hurt. Was taught this by a master pipe fitter on a construction site back in the early 90’s.
A mistake a lot of people make is leaving the "spud" or union in the radiator. If it's not an identical match / manufacturer to the valve, it's guaranteed to leak. Believe me, I learned the hard way! Regards, Bob.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos yes I figured it may have been a diff valve. Or the old style will not work with the new. I work for an hvacr company and I'm looking to replace my shutoff to the radiators. I was told it could work if it's the same metal and size. Ty for the reply and good work
Nice work. And nice presentation. Thank you for the video. I have a question. I’m curious why you didn’t use a pipe wrench as a back-up, on the riser, while unscrewing the valve body from the riser? I’m genuinely curious, as this would be the preferred method in most cases. Im about to do this exact job in the old factory loft building I live in and maintain. We use an old steam radiator system, and sometimes these valves need replacing, or the steam traps on the opposite side get filled with crud, metal filings (rust) and other various debris, preventing the proper circulation of steam and condensate.
Once you split and separate the piece that remains on the riser, really no need to hold back as it should come off with very little effort. On the other hand if you were to attempt to remove the valve without splitting it (UNLIKELY) you definitely would have to hold back on the riser. th-cam.com/video/3u1J0hDWJJo/w-d-xo.html
Thanks, that's me, just a homeowner who is a little handy, but the full valve replacement may be a little much for my skill level. I appreciate all of your advice.
I was hoping you would have started with how to isolate this radiator from system, what to do with water in the system, is it ok to drain the system, long before you go to the actual valve.
This is a one-pipe steam system, with no water, draining, or isolation necessary. Hot water system, totally different animal which needs to be drained down.
Bob when you count out the spud try a jig saw with a metal blade . That is what I do now all the time use to use a hacksaw blade also now a jig saw it is very good
What type of recessed radiator? A steel element Inside of a recessed steel enclosure or the entire radiator is made of cast iron and recessed into the wall?
@@BobsPlumbingVideos the entire radiator is cast iron and recessed into the wall. It has like a 4-5” high removable cover on the bottom to access the valve.
That ? Stump you I know when I saw it I was like wtf then I did it I stuck to your technique and I got 3 out of 4 changed😔still had fun although you need a helper for stairs my knees will be gone tomorrow
Could not imagine not cleaning up the inside pipe threads with a wire brush. Vacuum up that mess. Is that standing pipe crooked. Tension on that valve no wonder why they conk out
i dont remove steam valves too ofted but the way i do it is i cut the nut on the radiator side of the valve and then use a wrench on the (flared ??) part of the piece sticking out of the radiator. there is no way you are getting it out with the spud wrench
Actually it's a question if there's only one radiator vavle that has Tobe change do you still have to drain the whole system. and by the way I do have the old type radiator system
If it's a steam system no draining required. If you're talking about a hot water system aka hydronic system, then yes the entire system would have to be drained.
The valve was just an old dog and to avoid future callbacks for other issues, replacing the valve was the right choice I.M.H.O. On the other hand if you're doing this yourself, you could most certainly re-pack the nut.
Couldnt you use mouses milk on the rusted threads to break up the rust and then unscrew the old connectors. Mouses milk is better the WD40 and liquid wrench. Its worth a shot before cutting metal.
Turn off the heating system for steam heat, for a hot water system you're going to have to shut off the water supply to the boiler and drain the system. Which do you have, STEAM or HOT WATER???
@@BobsPlumbingVideosWhere are you located? I'm in central Connecticut. I have a water boiler, and my living room, which gets the hottest, since the boiler sits beneath the radiator, has a seized valve. I want to replace it cause I would like to adjust the amount of hot water it receives as opposed to the rest of the house. Also, my radiators sit in a cutout in the wall. Who knows what they were thinking?
Interesting, would it not be easier to just tighten? ... just loosen nuts apply Teflon and re tighten... I am just saying that has worked for me in the past. Unless valve is totally shot, then you have to replace it. I think everyone would agree, work SMART not HARD. :-)
If you're a handyman or D.Y.I. type of guy or gal maybe, but for a professional service company on a valve that me be 40 plus years old, replacing it it the right call.
A thermostatic valve is not going to stop a big cast iron radiator from releasing heat an hour after your thermostatic valve closes and the boiler has been off....
Using your technique few years now, no more big pipe wrenches for me! Thanks for tip!
I’m glad to see you doing a actual video and not just pictures. 👍
More to come!
That is a great technique to deal with those steam valves (like I have!). Bob, thank you very much for going through all the details. I am now ready for the next one!
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for taking the time to check out the video!!
Bob, thanks for sharing your technique on how to remove those valves. The advice on just moving radiator back and forth while tightening valve is so helpful. You have many years of experience and I appreciate your knowledge.
Growing up on the North Shore of LI, those convectors were very popular. As kids growing up, after a day out playing in the snow 🏂 we would take off all our wet outerwear and carefully place it over the top of those convevtors . An hour later, all dry!😀
Good times!
That's how it's done! This is gold to a plumber or steamfitter anywhere they have steam. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
I have in fact used this method, Just be patient and remember This radiator is very old. Darn nice work. I’m in the industry 36 years….. and I love it. I use a spud wrench to install the new valve. Thank goodness no issues.
Hi Bob. Spring is almost here
Excellent technique Bob
Very nice job and one very happy customer. Could have gone wrong in so many ways with someone who didn't know what they were really doing. Luckily they called you👍
nice procedure, I've used it before on rusted nuts, also liked the hint of using the wrench handle to screw in the new spud. Like a mechanic that can think on his feet.
Many Thanks! Bob.
Excellent job! You know your stuff. There’s just no substitute for experience. Thanks for your video.
Hi Bob, I wanted to thank you for teaching me this technique for removing valves and spuds by cutting them out, it is a SUPERPOWER! Since watching this video I was able to successfully remove two steam pipe fittings, and one radiator valve in my home, all of which would have been impossible for me if I didn't learn this technique from you. Your videos are making a difference in lots of people's lives.
Much appreciated, Thank You! Bob
Nice wrench trick for tightening....thank you!
You're welcome!
Nice video and technique
It would have been nice to clean up the mess created by all this work with a vacuum first before putting everything back together.
Skilled surgical hands, need to know when to stop cutting. Great job
Great videos! Have you seen many steam radiators with L threads. I ordered a refurbished radiator and a new valve. The radiator had L threads and the value was sent without the spud with a locking nut, only a 1" x 2" L thread nipple. My plumber tried to find a 1"spud with a locking nut but with no success. The radiator vendor stated they are not made in that size anymore. Have you had this experience?
Not at all! Could you send me a photo? my e mail - info@robertsessaplumbing.com.
Bob you are a genius, you make those brass male threads on radiators look so easy. I’m fight this issue on cast iron.
You do have to watch on the imported valves ! When you put the spud in with your wrench * or spud wrench < The 2 little dimples inside the spud will break on the importes * Great technic from 1 plumber to another retired plumber ! I will subscribe! Peace !
No question about it! Many years ago in a Galaxy Far, Far away my go to valves were Hammond & American valves. Both made in America, my have times changed!
What a great video. Thank you for taking the time to make it. very helpful
You're very welcome!
I know you probably hear this a lot, but i just want to say thank you for your video's really been on a binge watching all your stuff. good work and God speed.
Wow, thank you! Very much appreciated my friend! Bob
nice,dont ever plan on doing one of these,but loved watching...really dig the two pipe wrenches working together..lol
Thanks 👍
I don't have that fancy oscillating SAW I just used my Reciprocating so for everything with the Lennox blade
Thx for the video. Just did one. Exactly how you said to do it. Took much longer than you. But I was worried I’d hit the threads. Either I turned the valve on the threads one more turn or the pipe dropped a little, it was hard to get the spud in. Picked up the back end and that helped slip it in.
Nice work!
Thank you greatly !!! Amazing tip.
Love Bobswork. I work on tons of heating systems and this is the best way to remove the old fittings
I like the wrench technique- I will be trying that on the field
Have you tried taking one out with the wrenches and not cutting?
Great technique Thx curious why you didn’t slip an 1.25” chrome floor plate Ring over the pipe to cover the floor opening around pipe?😢
Oversight!
Great work and great explanation! Thanks for posting!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Such a nice walk thru video, good job sir!
Thank you very much!
Nice “Almost Job”. Gotta Clean As U Go Sir!!!
Thank you, Bob. you explained this procedure quite well.
You are very welcome
Superb technique
Thank you! Cheers!
BOB what do you think about the RIDGID compound wrench supposed to give you extra leverage and it looks pretty cool what do you think
I Never used them personally. I've seen them in video demos, and in the right circumstances they look like they get the job done!
Great info. Thanks for posting. This helps me so much
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the visit. Bob.
Thank you so much Mr Bob, the way you explained everything was amazing, you have no idea how much you helped me.
You're most welcome
Really appreciate your videos curious why you didn’t install a chrome 1.25” ring to cover flooring hole around the pipe?
Overlooked! Thanks for the visit!
Thanks again, Bob!
Brilliant technique
great video bob! this is the stuff they don't teach in schools!
That is a true statement, you don't know anything until you're out in the field doing the actual work!
How much I would be charged if a contractor replaced it for me ?
In N.Y.C. the range depending on who you call $350 / $650.00. I've seen it go as high as $800.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos same question I was going to ask. I’m in the Bronx NYC. And yes you saved us a ton! Like!
Thanks for posting worked like a charm saved me lots of time.
Great to hear!
Good job Bob
How many threads did you nick before you got that technique perfected? Love watching you work. You create plumbing art!
Enough! LOL!😂
I would love to see how you do a stuck steam pipe that won't move.
Excellent job sir excellent job
Many thanks
Nice job Bob. What kind of blade in the occilating tool?? Metal cutting or carbide?
Imperial Extreme Carbide for the oscillating tool and Diablo 9" Carbide for the reciprocating saw.
Bob so you couldn’t use a spud wrench to get connection out of radiator?
Not on a 30,40 year old radiator. Maybe up to about 5 years, but not beyond. Happy New Year!
Thanks Bob - great advice
Glad it was helpful!
Nice work Bob!
Thanks for listening
Hey Bob, I live right across the pond in NJ... Anyways, I had one stuck so bad. After I watched your video I was not convinced because it was really stuck . When I went out to the hardware store to get the Cold Chisel, 5/8 actually....a couple taps and BANG .... it came out. Your exact steps worked out great. I was so relived!!!! I've learned something today. Thank You so much!!!!
Excellent stuff, love to hear that my techniques work...LOL! Happy to help! Bob.
that’s really nice work
Thanks!
Your plumbing is very well done but why do you leave all your chips from cutting on the floor under the radiator etc. Would'nt it be easier to clean that before you put it all together?
I vacuum up when I'm all the tools are put away, felt no need to video that part!
You can always cut your spud wrench to size to fit that's what I did?
Ok so these vids have been priceless. I was able to change radiator valves on 7 radiatorain my new property . However last night I was unsuccessful with the 7th one. After changing it, it still leaked from where the spud meets the radiator. Now i did notice what looked like a knick or irregularity on the lip/outer most thread in the radiator, but im almost sure I didnt nick it with my sawzall like i usually do. So at first i only put tape and megalock on the spud being that i didnt knick the radiator thread. After i saw the leak, i opened it back up, removed the tape on the spud and put lampwick, tape and blue block. Tightened it up confidently, thinking it was fixed now. I checked about 30 minutes later, STILL LEAKING!. I have knicked plenty of threads with othwr valve chamges, and the lampwick, taprle, blue block method always works like a charm. Im confused as to why this keeps leaking and i didnt even knick it. I felt very defeated and unaccomplished last night. Needless to say, I closed the valve on that radiator and told my tenant to keep it off till I can get back to try again. Im not sure what I can do to make a difference though
Send me some photos. info@robertsessaplumbing.com. I need to see see both sides to guide you.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos thank u. When I go back, i will take photos.
At 3:02 do you loosen the union before or after cutting the valve?
I generally do it after cutting off the valve, but on occasion will loosen but nut back it off completely.
Bob you the best because your from Brooklyn hey fo get about it lol
Have you considered using an internal pipe wrench to install the new union? Is there even room inside for it, considering the convector?
Those mini-12 volt HackZalls from Milwaukee are my favourite, most used power tool.
Most posts I see say not to use thread sealant on union. I understand that it shouldn't be necessary but also don't see why it would cause a problem to use it. What's your reason for using it there?
A. That's how I was taught from the beginning and B. It will fill in any imperfections not visible to the human eye. Finally just good practice to prevent any unnecessary call backs.
Pipe dope is as much a lubricant as it is a sealant. It allows the metal to metal threads to tighten without seizing / galling and to come apart easier later. Unions seal on their smooth tapered surfaces (much like flare fittings), so pipe dope isn’t really necessary on the mating surfaces, but it doesn’t hurt. Was taught this by a master pipe fitter on a construction site back in the early 90’s.
Very informative
Glad you think so!
I have those convectors in the wall my house was built 1950 Venturi system one pipe hot water
Artistry.
Why did you remove the union? Was this a diff size or brand where you had to change the union to the actual valve size?
A mistake a lot of people make is leaving the "spud" or union in the radiator. If it's not an identical match / manufacturer to the valve, it's guaranteed to leak. Believe me, I learned the hard way! Regards, Bob.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos yes I figured it may have been a diff valve. Or the old style will not work with the new. I work for an hvacr company and I'm looking to replace my shutoff to the radiators. I was told it could work if it's the same metal and size. Ty for the reply and good work
Nice work. Is that blue tape designed for steam or just hot water?
Both! Good product!!
What would be a good tool to unloosen the knob of the radiator? Mine is so tight and I can’t unloosen it to turn the heat down. PLEASE HELP
If you back off the hex packing nut below the handle, it should turn. Don't forget to re-tighten when you get it where you want it to go.
@@BobsPlumbingVideos do you have a video on how to do this ?
And you use cast on steam so you could crack the fittings easy
I have this issue in one of my houses. Will you come out to South Ozone Park, Queens NY?
Sorry, a little out of my service area.
Nice work. And nice presentation. Thank you for the video.
I have a question. I’m curious why you didn’t use a pipe wrench as a back-up, on the riser, while unscrewing the valve body from the riser? I’m genuinely curious, as this would be the preferred method in most cases. Im about to do this exact job in the old factory loft building I live in and maintain. We use an old steam radiator system, and sometimes these valves need replacing, or the steam traps on the opposite side get filled with crud, metal filings (rust) and other various debris, preventing the proper circulation of steam and condensate.
Once you split and separate the piece that remains on the riser, really no need to hold back as it should come off with very little effort. On the other hand if you were to attempt to remove the valve without splitting it (UNLIKELY) you definitely would have to hold back on the riser. th-cam.com/video/3u1J0hDWJJo/w-d-xo.html
Great Video
Thank you
You're welcome
Probably a dumb question, but would a guy ever want to repack the valve instead?
A homeowner / DIY'er maybe!
Thanks, that's me, just a homeowner who is a little handy, but the full valve replacement may be a little much for my skill level. I appreciate all of your advice.
Thanx Bob!
You are welcome!
I following your channel. My radiator heater making so much noise. How can I fix it?? Please reply me…
Need a little more info please?
I was hoping you would have started with how to isolate this radiator from system, what to do with water in the system, is it ok to drain the system, long before you go to the actual valve.
This is a one-pipe steam system, with no water, draining, or isolation necessary. Hot water system, totally different animal which needs to be drained down.
Bob when you count out the spud try a jig saw with a metal blade . That is what I do now all the time use to use a hacksaw blade also now a jig saw it is very good
Excellent tip, thank you!
Would you recommend this method if you have recessed steam radiators? I have recessed steam radiators and the space is limited to turn the wrench.
What type of recessed radiator? A steel element Inside of a recessed steel enclosure or the entire radiator is made of cast iron and recessed into the wall?
@@BobsPlumbingVideos the entire radiator is cast iron and recessed into the wall. It has like a 4-5” high removable cover on the bottom to access the valve.
😎 good job👍👍
Bob do you have to drain expansion tank and if I do am I going to ruin it
Expansion Tank? This is a steam system, no expansion required??
@@BobsPlumbingVideos the one I’m. Working on older town in Illinois the boiler is supplying steam radiators and does have an expansion tank
That ? Stump you I know when I saw it I was like wtf then I did it I stuck to your technique and I got 3 out of 4 changed😔still had fun although you need a helper for stairs my knees will be gone tomorrow
Could not imagine not cleaning up the inside pipe threads with a wire brush. Vacuum up that mess. Is that standing pipe crooked. Tension on that valve no wonder why they conk out
Pipe is crooked!
i dont remove steam valves too ofted but the way i do it is i cut the nut on the radiator side of the valve and then use a wrench on the (flared ??) part of the piece sticking out of the radiator. there is no way you are getting it out with the spud wrench
You should tell them under the floor it's a 2 elbow swing
Actually it's a question if there's only one radiator vavle that has Tobe change do you still have to drain the whole system. and by the way I do have the old type radiator system
If it's a steam system no draining required. If you're talking about a hot water system aka hydronic system, then yes the entire system would have to be drained.
Wow!
Hey Bob, watching this video for a second time now... The original issue was a leaking packing nut, so why change the whole valve?
The valve was just an old dog and to avoid future callbacks for other issues, replacing the valve was the right choice I.M.H.O. On the other hand if you're doing this yourself, you could most certainly re-pack the nut.
Great Job Bob ! : > )
Couldnt you use mouses milk on the rusted threads to break up the rust and then unscrew the old connectors. Mouses milk is better the WD40 and liquid wrench. Its worth a shot before cutting metal.
Not on a 20 plus year old radiator!
Do you have to turn off the water to replace it
Turn off the heating system for steam heat, for a hot water system you're going to have to shut off the water supply to the boiler and drain the system. Which do you have, STEAM or HOT WATER???
@@BobsPlumbingVideosWhere are you located? I'm in central Connecticut. I have a water boiler, and my living room, which gets the hottest, since the boiler sits beneath the radiator, has a seized valve. I want to replace it cause I would like to adjust the amount of hot water it receives as opposed to the rest of the house. Also, my radiators sit in a cutout in the wall. Who knows what they were thinking?
You could use an adjustable wrench instead of screwing up the packing nut with a pipe wrench….
I could, but I got the magic touch!
I’m a master pipe fitter for 40 years and never done it this way , just heat and tap it , comes off every time
I DONT LIKE POSSIBILITY OF FIRE- HIS WAY IS FOOL PROOF..DONE IT FOR YEARS,,ONCE DID A 10" STEAM MAIN TO CUT IN A B&B 550K HEAT EXCHANGER...
SOMETIMES YOU SHOULD CLEAN AREA BEFORE YOU INSTALL PARTS
What about if we clean this surface first Bob. 😁
Old school valves that have been in for many years require some special techniques!
Interesting, would it not be easier to just tighten? ... just loosen nuts apply Teflon and re tighten... I am just saying that has worked for me in the past. Unless valve is totally shot, then you have to replace it. I think everyone would agree, work SMART not HARD. :-)
If you're a handyman or D.Y.I. type of guy or gal maybe, but for a professional service company on a valve that me be 40 plus years old, replacing it it the right call.
I sealed the stem and packing nut with Teflon tape.and graphite . Leak free for 2 years..if it leaks again I will seal it again
My radiator has been leaking every winter for the past couple of years. It’s extremely annoying because it never acted like that before.
And what are we supposed to do with this information?
Call a plumber, heating contractor. It will ruin the floor.
Should of just tightened the packing nut if it was leaking, a brand new valve will leak if the packing nut isn't tight
Why not rebuild the valve?
Not worth the trouble! Maybe if you're a D.I.Y. homeowner?
Not sure about applying pipe dope to the union surface. Otherwise, nice job.
Long time habit taught by old timers!
Taught the same way to dope the union surface
That’s a leaker
….. whaaat why didnt you change it to a termostatic valve ? this is not up to date you are wasting money
A. Budget B. Why a thermostatic valve?
A thermostatic valve is not going to stop a big cast iron radiator from releasing heat an hour after your thermostatic valve closes and the boiler has been off....
You need to move the mic a lil away from you mouth plss