Solving Engine Performance Issues (Part 2) - EricTheCarGuy
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ต.ค. 2024
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See Part 1
• Solving Engine Perform...
Vacuum leaks
• How To Find A Vacuum L... +
Voltage leaks
• Finding Ignition Volta...
Power Balance
• How To Perform A Power...
Compression testing
• How To Perform a Compr...
Leak down testing
• How To Perform A Leak ...
Here we are with part 2 of the Subaru Performance Series and as you can see we still haven't found the issue but to me I feel that I've eliminated a lot of possibilities and I feel I've narrowed it down to a problem in the driveline in fact the next part of this 'series' will be changing the transmission fluid and filter as well as the fluid in both the front and rear differentials, I'll post links to those after they are uploaded. The point of the series however is to avoid throwing parts at a problem like this, don't get caught up in replacing sensors that you don't have evidence are bad it gets expensive and is hardly ever effective. If you have a performance problem start with any check engine light codes and repair those first, if you don't have any replace basic maintenance parts like plugs, wires, air and fuel filters and THEN start looking for other causes, I feel you'll be more effective with that approach instead of putting a new sensor on because it fixed your friends car.
If you have automotive questions the fastest way to get a response is to head over to my website and forum as I no longer answer TH-cam comments and it takes me a while to get through email these days, here's a link.
www.ericthecarg...
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Dude you don't need to apologize for the lengthy video or dragging it out. unless everyone else can afford 110 per hour mechanic fees like here in Tucson it's dam good to have someone concise and patient to use reasonable deduction with process of elimination to point a lot of these things out.I was ASE certified back when Datsuns and small foreign cars were coming to America and all the 1/4 spaghetti lines that used to run all over the motor.you for sure have tipped me on some things that fixed cars for me and sometimes it helps to have a second opinion of things so yes thank you Eric.
Hi Eric, if you want to lock the center diff to rule it out try installed a 35A fuse in a vacant slot labeled FWD in the engine compartment fuse panel.
This is only for emergency situations but you'll be able to drive it and it may cure that problem. I had the same issue on an Impreza and doing that made it drivable for 2 years. It felt like a binding/skipping especially when doing a U-Turn. Puttting that fuse in made it drive perfectly normal.
Big thank you for this video. Eric's discussion of "pirate air" just clued me in to solving a really annoying issue that developed right after I had my car in for a major service. For several weeks now it's been idling rough and giving me a power lag right at the beginning of throttle opening in every gear (manual trans).... I looked around the air cleaner assembly and found one of my valve cover breather tubes had come completely disconnected from its air duct input! Either it worked its way loose over time or, more likely, the techs just didn't reconnect it after service. Literally an instant fix.... No more rough idle and perfect throttle response. Everything downstream of the MAF needs to be tight or crazy shit happens apparently.
I've never heard the term "pirate air" before to describe the intake leaks but I love it! "Harr harr mateys I'm the Pirate Air here to plunder ye horsepower!"
there's no such term, it's just something ETCG made up
i figured but its still funny.
and that is also true Arr me matey
In Norway it's called "Fake Air" or "False air"
Because the air is not measured by the maf therefore it "don't exist" even if it does. Kind of a weird term really. :p
+Benjii Benjii Then, you can call it "Ghost Air" 👻
This kind of thing is SO frustrating! I feel for you Eric. Had this for years, YEARS with my Mustang. Turned out to be a cracked exhaust manifold gasket that just didn't have a big enough exhaust leak to be easily heard over the cat-backs. Was so happy when I finally figured it out.
Eric is quite possibly the best guy on you tube for explaining car issues.
Easy guy to listen to. Great vids.
It's transmission bro. Trust me. As soon as you threw parts after the fuel filter I noticed. My car had the same problem. I serviced it so much it ended up being just that. Dropped 1k on it plus smaller msc stuff like the tune up stuff. And its always a sure sign if the transmission struggles to accelerate in the beginning. Good practices and informative video . Good Luck
Thank you for yet another great video! The way I always explain to someone a vacuum leak is telling them its like trying to drink through a broken straw. One of the first items I do on a new vehicle to me is I hook up my boost leak tester and put a few psi into the intake and see if I have vacuum/boost leaks. I've seen too many forced induction cars go down from a leak behind the sensor leaning out the mixture!
Thank you Eric for all the work you do!
Eric, that subaru uses a friction clutch to transfer power between front and rear. A friend of mine with a 2005 impreza was experiencing similar issues, along with clunking during tight turns, very similar to bad CV shafts. The fix was to simply change out the transmission fluid. Subaru's fluid works twice as hard as it needs to operate the transmission as well as the front/rear differential clutch.
Have to say Eric's one of the more eloquent sounding mechanics I've come across. Maybe even some good English essays from this guy? Makes his videos that much easier to get.
He certainly is a gifted individual, and most importantly humble technician. Not just only by English essays from this guys....He is a truly a great listener.."he has to be"!...For the clients he serves for sure!!!
yes hes good!...Hollywood material.
South main auto is also an honest guy. Check him out
Your words of wisdom at 11:10 or so are really refreshing to hear. My brother and i are having an issue with his Civic where it has no power below 2500 rpm and seems to hesitate a LOT until it gets up to about 3000 Rpm. We're at wit's end with this car, and we've replaced so much... nothing seems to help. Going to go back to the basics and check. Thanks Eric for your amazing videos.
Eric, I've been a fan of your videos for just about three months now, and I genuinely believe that you are the best mechanic/video producer (combo) on TH-cam. You've inspired me to start doing a lot of my own work and upkeep on my precious 2000 NB Miata MX5. Thanks for all the great videos!
always liked your honesty
13:00 "situation with the hesitation on the acceleration"
Gotta love how that sentence sounds
is still there
He is totally right.........filters and spark plugs matter SO MUCH.
Good advice..exactly what I did some time ago.
Eric you're spot on about the Subaru transmission, I used to own a 2005 model, drove me mad, if you want to highlight your problem take the car onto some loose gravel and try again. The Subaru is basically a front wheel drive car which in auto trans models normally puts about 10% power to the rear through a multiplate wet clutch. When the trans detects speed difference between the front and rear shafts, wheel spin, it increases the rear axle clutch pressure to take the drive to 50 - 50. Only problem, once the clutch is fully applied there is no difference in speed between front and rear, so after a few yards of travel it releases, seeing the problem? I used to have trouble with mine on steep gravel roads, snow would present similar issues. Cheers.
Eric, you are BY FAR one of the best/my favorite techs out there. You know alot about cars, and the way you explain/teach is impecable. Of my 100+ subscriptions your channel is the one that i check up on daily. Love your channel man, keep it coming. (please)
Hi Eric,
I know it has been 2 years since you posted the video and the problem should have been solved by now.
But it was mentioned that if there are any engine performance issues; always check the basic stuff.
One item often neglected are the battery terminals. Oxidation, corrosion, expansion movement due to variance of temperature in the engine-bay will deteriorate the contact surfaces at the terminal posts.
I find that the elbow grease that accompanies sanding down battery terminals and their clamps; well-worth the effort.
There are literally hundreds of electrical connectors in any modern engine and it would require a very dedicated motor-head to remove & clean up all of them. So a good 12 to 14 volts from a pair of clean battery terminals is a MUST to drive electrical current pass all those hundreds of connectors.
I've started cars that would not start, resolve poor idling engines, etc, all with a simple 1st step of a light sanding to the battery terminals.
Note : always follow your car's recommendations before removing the terminal clamps. Generally, always remove the negative clamp first.
another important thing that you might wanna note next time around is that on some cars you have to disconnect the negative battery terminal prior to disconnecting the MAF sensor or MAP sensor in the case of some vehicles.
Cleaning the mass air sensor definately helps alot for lean tip in and lean problems when its dirty but one thing where Eric messed up is you clean the mass air sensor from the air cleaner side where the air passes over the sensor cuz thats where the buildup is.
I find that googling the problem helps too, as alot of times the same problem happens on many of the same car, and you can see what others have done to fix it,
Whenever I am troubleshooting a problem like this I go thru the same things you do but one thing extra I do is clean electrical connectors while I have then apart like on the MAF. I use a premium contact cleaner DeOxit. In my opinion the best stuff there is. I fixed up a 96 Rodeo for my daughter and all kinds of problem were taken care of by pulling the connectors on the computer and replacing them. I think the guy that sold it to me thought he was ripping me off but this has turned into a sweet little car mostly by going through all the electrical connections. Even the headlights were brighter.
I have a 1997 Tercel that was giving me problems with hesitation. It had sat for some time and needed tlc too. I started with the fuel and air filters, and it somewhat helped, but still jerked a little once the clutch engaged. I looked at the plugs and noticed they were standard Autolite copper and not the OEM dual electrode NGK R series. I bought them just in case but hadn'tinstalled them yet. I wanted to make sure the injectors got cleaned. #1 and #2 were both clogged. I rigged a contraption that allowed me to pulse fire some Chemtool through them with a 9v battery and compressed air. Worked great, but still jerked slightly. Changed the plugs and that was it. Wrong spark plugs, but the car idles and runs so much better because of all I had done.
Just to let you know Eric, I have a Subaru and had the same problem and until it got worse I checked the computer with my scan tool and learned the oxygen sensor was the cause to this very same issue. After I changed out the oxygen sensor it sovled it completely.
Marc
Just want to say that you videos are very informative and I've learned a lot. I'm 72 and just about given up on working on my 2010 Subaru and 2012 Prius. I change oil and other fluids plus plugs. I have found out that plugs do make a big difference so always stick to what the manufacture recommends. Thanks Eric!
Don't forget to also check your spark plug wires.
I miss old engines, with 15 years I could diasamble my all motorbike, take cylinder head to milling machine shop under my arm, ask them to bore to my next size cilinder already ordered and then like in a transe for hours assembling everything with my father tools, still remember had to adapt carburator as it was so big it didn't fit, then the power was so much everyhthing had to be adapted too like new cluch disks every week, I still remember how that bike could shoot fire on exaust, was basicly build for me. I apologise the nostalgie my friend but I just watch a good couple videos of yours and I really miss it this mechanic love thing, you know what I mean :) I dont know how is in america but here in europe car are super computers now, I open bonet and theres notthing I can do, I do drive powerfull BMW and it makes me sad I can't do anything apart from changing some filters. subscribeb and thanks mate, great videos
Don't forget to check the catalytic converter for blockage; of course if you don't have a code for that you're not likely to have an issue, but a clogged cat really hurts performance.
years ago I had a Renault with the same issue -- it turned out to be the oxygen sensor , which is, of course, the last sensor input used by the ecu to calculate how lean or rich ( fuel mixture ) to run your engine. In my case the engine was over fueling when I accelerated -- basically flooding the engine and causing a momentary hesitation .
Tip- Using the special spray is a very good idea, because it is formulated to deep clean those sensors. Also make sure you let the MAF sensor sit for about 30 minutes before you install.. Thanks Eric!
Lawn mowers are the same "No we don't need a new lawn mower" I told my son. New plug, air filter, and fresh gas w/Sea Foam the first new things to try. That engine started like a firecracker! And used half the fuel for the same lawn.
I love throwing parts at my own cars. on the 85 corvette I own I plan on keeping it for a long time so when it ran crappy I put all new sensors, tune up, fuel filter. after all that found water in the gas. but I wanted these repairs/maintenance done anyway, and now it runs perfect. on that car stuff was cheap accept the new mass air sensor.
I only say this because I spend the last 6 months rebuilding an automatic transmission 3 times, but if you experience a loss of power in turns, fluid is often the culprit. Im sure you have checked the fluid level, as described in the service manual, but I would monitor the symptoms under light and extreme turning conditions, adding a cup of fluid (up to a pint) to see if the symptom diminishes. You would be surprised how many transmissions on the road have the wrong dipstick, and how a worn trans filter gasket could suck air, causing pump cavitation. Again, I point these possibilities out because they are what I am familiar with, but trans diagnostics are relatively simple, at least when it comes to what you can remedy without a complete overhaul. Given it has been 4 years since this video was posted, Im sure whatever was going to happen has happened. If not, give it a shot and see what happens.
Dude. Spraying carburetor cleaner on holes to temporarily plug them is friggin' brilliant.
"Spraying carburetor cleaner on holes to temporarily plug them is friggin' brilliant."
No, he's doing it because the cleaner will get sucked through any holes and cause an increase in engine speed as the cleaner burns.
I have a similar problem with a 2003 Toyota Avalon. When you first step on the gas, nothing, then it wants to take off. I had made mention of the problem to the Toyota folks when my parents were having it serviced by them. They have no clue what I was talking about. I have since acquired the car and what I do to keep the car from jumping forward is to step on the gas like one normally does, then back up my foot on the pedal before I feel it move forward and this seams to accelerate at a more normal speed. I told the folks at Toyota that this was dangerous and could lead to a collision. They still did not see this as the car did not have any problems. This is the first time I heard anyone make mention to the hesitation problem but you, but you have a Subaru. It has been always serviced at Toyota so I would presume it has the correct spark plugs, fuel filter, etc.Peace, Reese
Mo Pieces, hi mo... you describe exactly the same issue as with my car.. you can put your foot down and like does nothing but you can take your foot off and all the power comes in or just all comes in in a blast after.. dangerous accelerating betwen trafick lights or roundabouts and islands... but hi mate, i just wandered if you actually found out what ut was... :) cheers mo have a good one mate, richy :), cheers :)
Mo Pieces i
even closer.
same principle.
the metallic wiring is there to calm down the flow and avoid bad turbulences.
if all the sensors or accessories are too close the ones to the others they create turbulences bad for measurement.
I've got a similar performance issue with my old BMW. Just cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF sensor cleaner today. Thanks for the advice!
@EricTheCarGuy: Love seeing people like you out in the world - articulate, scientifically thinking, mechanically inclined, and diligent.
ONE THING: Maybe I missed it, but you mentioned earlier that you'd talk about what to do with models that have the FUEL FILTER INSIDE THE TANK (coupled with the pump) as is the case in my 2005 Forester. Subaru doesn't admit to the need to service this item, and I kinda don't understand that. Can't it still get clogged even though it's in the gas tank? What are your druthers on this & have you replaced them yourself or seen them become compromised?
+Dustin Riordan I had a Mazda with the same type of fuel filter. What they told me is its just a screen in the fuel pump that filters out large debris that could've fell into the tank. They said modern gas is so pure it doesn't need filtering.
+uncreativename but all the junk in your tank does need filtering
Some have a filter separate from the screen. My Mini has a housing in the gas tank for the fuel filter. The filter sits inside the screen. I considered changing mine but discovered it's a giant PITA. So I'll leave it until it needs to be changed.
Keep up the good work Eric!
Good, instructive videos, nice variation too, never get tedious!
Yours are some of my favorites, and I see a lot of different car mechanic videos!😇
Thanks for this useful video Eric.
Couple of weeks ago i did the exact same thing for the performance issue. Engine hesitation in lower speeds and stop and go traffic to be exact.
I cleaned the MAF and Air temp sensor. Cleaned the PcV system and suction pump. On my Audi A4 2001.
The performance is better than before but not really to the full level.
I now see the engine hesitation in day time when the temp is 100+ here in Arizona. However the car seems to run fine in the evenings and night.
Checking and replacing the small items like the filters and plugs, all have a cumulative effect, so it's worth doing no matter what. Personally I use electrical contact cleaner on the MAF sensor. :-)
Fuel pump could be clogged (but that wouldn't matter as Eric tested fuel pressure in the first video right?) - known to give strange problems such as hesitation.
Carburettors can have various other issues as well - let alone sensors!
Hey Eric. I have the same model and face the same issues. One thing that is prominent with this issue is that it tends to occur when the vehicle is cold, until at least the first notch on the temperature gauge. Once the car is warmed up I don't feel the hesitation.
I always recommend to clean the engine as good as possible before troubleshooting issues, It makes the troubleshouting much easier and you can detect fresh oil leaks much earlier.
am also a mechanic from Africa,Zimbabwe but i learn a lot from you Eric my work even got more proffessional and good with your skills and knowledge keep up the good work brooo i love yo vids wen ever i encounter a prob i have no knowledge of i look for your vidz and boom!!!!!! there it is thanks brooo am not just fixing cars but am also feeding my family out of your knowledge
Eric once same happened to my car it always hesitated while accelerating.... after checking each and every part I finally found the HT cables were leaking sparks...... that was silly.... but after I changed it.... It worked better and no hesitation.
Sometimes machine trolls with us.
My 06 Gp had similar symptoms and it centered around the transmission. Bad speed sensor was a factor, replaced and helped. New trans fluid and filter followed, and it feels better. I will continue to monitor it.
There are simple tests for all sensors before you would replace them. Also....make sure you let the MAF sensor dry before you hook it back up. Love the info in these videos. Eric rules!!!!
I worked on a Hyundai mini van once. just an oil change and some recall work, but when I went to pull the vehicle out it would accelerate completely on its own at idle. I'd never seen it before but I looked at the air tube and sure enough there was a huge tear in it. It would've been an easy fix for a major drivability issue, but the car was seriously neglected and the people didn't wanna do anything about it.
The black plastic air box is intake plenum; keeps the intake air in there for stabilised/positive air supply. Some cars also come with resonator chamber next to it.
When undoing electrical connections, make sure the ignition key is removed, and spray with a can of electrical connector cleaner before re-attaching.
The biggest cause of drivability & other problem is not following scheduled maintenance. Many people think it's a waste of money.
BTW, the engine bay is horribly dirty.....
I have been looking for weeks on youtube, to find a video like this, thank you, you have helped me a lot
I would actually think that the very first thing you would do is to hook up a scan tool and check the fuel trims. People can pick up a PC or tablet based scan tool for $25 - $50 that will give them all the basic info they need.
Whenever I get a car, I buy a for real factory shop manual for it right away.
Even new, you can almost always get the dealer to include one in as part of the deal. I advise all my customers to do so as well.
Now days, manuals often come as a 'set'. Be sure to get them all.
They will save you tons of time/cash/frustration over the life of the car, and are a good selling point for when you sell. Always take them with you on long trips in case your forced to deal with a ma/pa shop.
Hello there, I will just add my help here, too, since you made another great video series for a general problem with various roots.
If one have a new LPG-system built in the car and after 15 or more thousands of kilometers one can recognize imperformance then 1st to be checked and replaced are the spark plugs and if it doesn't help 2nd is to readjust the valve lashes. That's a common problem with LPG-cars due to the higher burning heat and accelerated corrosion at the edges of the valves.
Another well done vid...All I want to do after watching is go out to my car and start checking shit out...I consider myself a fine shade tree mechanic, but your overall knowledge is so much appreciated. You seem really genuine and willing to help us common folks, THX and keep up the good work bro.
Hey Eric, I wanted to say, this video was really helpful.. My mother has had this or similar problem in her '06 Kia Optima ( before body style change ) and I do recall some like, dry rot look to the air hose...That could be the problem, right ? Thanks for your time
@13:07
"The situation with hesitation on the acceleration"
LOL
I've never owned an AWD car, but now that you mentioned it, I'd like to know if the car's AWD is full-time or part-time. If part-time, they have notorious behaviour called "Tight Corner Braking Effect" When you turn the steering at a corner, the AWD acts as if the brakes have been applied to the front wheels and in some cases the engine stalls. This may/may not be the issue on this particular case but good thing to keep in mind. If TCBE is the cause, the car is fine and there's no trouble.
At 10:14 when you tighten the hose clamp you can hear the friction going on. When I reuse or tighten and old rusted hose clamp I always spray a bit of lubricant at the worm screw. It helps the clamp to do its job unobstructed from excessive friction due to rust build up.
Is it worth cleaning a MAP sensor in the same way that you'd clean a MAF sensor? My understanding is that they have similar functions.
I understand your point. However estimating mass from volume assumes even temperatures. The closer the sensor is to that variably hot engine, the more variance you will have in air temperature, with lamellar flow of air and flow eddies confusing the issue as well. It looks like the engineers wanted a more homogeneous sample to accurately estimate mass air flow....
the big muffler he shows in the video is not a dedicated only muffler ,it's a big volume in wich the air will slow down and gain a bit of pressure just before the intake runners.
it's necessary to allow good breathing when you squeeze the pedal suddenly and to distribute air flow equally.
all those stuff are designed for a purpose
you could throw all this shit in a box with the filter and good.
no.
you need a laminar flow to be accurate.
That's true, I changed my spark plugs recently and I noticed the idle is very smooth
I had all kinds of issues with my 2002 Chevy Blazer when I had it with hesitation random P0300's etc etc. Changed 02 Sensors, MAF Sensor, MAP Sensor, TP Sensor, Crank Sensor, Gas Cap, Fuel Filter, Plugs, Wires, Cap & Rotor. It got slightly better but was still never fixed. It started pulling P0300's randomly above 2300 rpms on the highway with cruise on with no loss in performance. I'm pretty sure after all that it was the PCM going bad. Didn't feel like fighting it any more, so I sold it.
Eric: Let me put an end to the saga--lol In part 1 the spark plugs looked like a lean condition. What most people forget and neglect (or not aware of) is that a failing brake booster and/or vacuum line ck valve will will cause hesitation/power issues....as well as auto trans shifting ability. Any car older than 10 years could have a booster with dry rot and master cylinder leaking into the booster. The booster could of blown out of master cylinder seal. Blocking off vac line will not help test
There are specific throttle body cleaners available in spray cans which are safe for your electronic sensors and teflon coatings. Do NOT use carby cleaner, even if the can says something like 'throttle body and carby cleaner'. The key word here is 'sensor safe'. As for brake cleaner or WD40, don't even think about going there. MAF sensors are cheap enough to replace but why would you if it just needs a clean? It's your electronic throttle body that you really need to protect. Those suckers cost many hundreds of dollars and are very sensitive to harsh solvents including carby cleaner.
torque binding is a very common issue in auto awd subarus, theres a fwd fuse in the fuse box you put in when running a spare, chuck it in and see if that stops it, if it does its just the centre diff torque binding, no serious issue until it still clunking and making a lot a noise and can be felt in the steering
Cool stuff. Did that on my brother's 1990 E34. Did a hell of a difference. Used carb spray, not special MAF cleaner.
Also, I think you should change it completely to manual transmission. Automatics are lame, even if we're talking about a Subaru 4WD system.
Great video @ericthecarguy ! I have one question, why do you not recommend taking off the throttle body for cleaning purposes? Also is that implying that you can clean it without removing it or are you saying they never need cleaning to begin with ?
Wow Eric, you're like a gift from God to me LOL. I know absolutely nothing about how to fix a car (once I connected the battery the other way around and almost blew it up. Haha). So yeah, I wouldn't dare to even touch the MAS myself. Every time I take it to the mechanic, I have to pay $100, $200, for something that seems so simple. And sometimes they tell you they're putting new parts in, but they're just cleaning them. So yeah, thanks so much for taking the time and making these videos.
If you want to take THAT arguement, then no sensor on any vehicle directly measures anything. It varries voltage, resistance, frequency, amperage, which the computer interprets to mean certain things. And not all MAF sensors use frequency, alot use a measure of amperage. It uses a "cold" wire to determine air temp, or just uses the IAT, then heats the "hot" wire to a set temperature and measures the current required to maintain that temp. But I agree with you on the Speed Density part.
Hey Eric, did you ever figure this out? I'm trying to help my brother fix is '01 Subaru's sluggish issue off the stop. Grrrrr
I did a quick google. Here's the Main culprits,
Fuel leaks, dragging brakes, vacuum leaks, clogged air filter, bad spark plugs and under inflated tires are the usual culprits.
Easy stuff to check. To check the brakes just jack it up and spin the tires by hand. If on resists more than the others than there's your problem. Vacuum leaks you can probly search here on youtube.
since this happens while turning it may not actually be a problem but more of a "flaw" of the subaru awd sytem. the reason I say this is because I have a friend who owns a audi which is awd and he experiences a slight chatter while making tight radius turns from a stand still and he looked into this issue and its actually a common side effect of that particular awd system.
I've been wonderig why you have not checked the TPS just for the heck of it.
Either way it would make a great video.
Thanks again Eric.
I had a misfire and some other shit(bad idle, etc) when I put a manifold spacer in the car. The plugs looked ok but changing them made it so much better. Swapped the IAC(idle speed motor) and it was partially fixed, but it has never been the same. Replace a vacuum line which I thought might have been fucked but there is still a bit of a problem.
Replaced the throttle cable and it idles a bit better but there is still a bit of a problem with startups; when it's cold the RPM will sometimes climb to 1400rpm and stay there when normally it will go there for 5-10 sec then come back down. Other times, it'll go up to 1400, drop down maybe 100rpm, then fluctuate between 1400 and 1600 rpm...other times you'll tap the throttle to "set" the idle(like on older cars) and it'll climb up to 2000. Restarting normally fixes it though.
Anyone able to help me on this? When it's warm, it has no issues. It idles about 700rpm, everything else is fine. I was thinking stuck PCV? The TPS and IAC are both new, and the throttle/plenum were both cleaned prior to the shit hitting the fan. Before that, it idled perfectly...
If you used a phenolic spacer to isolate the carb from heat, take it off unless you had hot start issues to begin with. If you used a metal plate (to adapt to clearance issues), install perimeter gaskets on the top and bottom of it. Also make sure that the plate has holes in it that don't block or do block the same pathways on the bottom of the carb as the old gasket did.
did the MAF sensor,than the IAC sensor,than blasted clean with break cleaner the pcv valve,disconnected battery ,step on break to drain the juice from ECU, connected the battery back,my old subaru idles like a german automobile..:) thanx man you gave me inspiration to do it today:)))) cheers from Toronto
Yeah, and disable the traction control if possible. The car isn't designed to run without a load on the wheels. I'm not saying it'll hurt anything, but I would have trouble wanting to make a diagnosis based apron wheel speed differences while it's on jacks.
I will say that I think the center dif in that car is a solenoid/clutch setup. If it's malfunctioning it can cause stuttering/hesitation.
I fixed an idle problem with carb cleaner on the mass airflow sensor. I removed the air filter sprayed into the housing and covered the opening.so it sucks the carb cleaner. work great now. increased performance!
Idk Eric one thing they drilled into my head in college is not to clean to maf sensor at least on a customer's car unless you're just checking to see if engine performance improves because the sensors usually have a protective coating that the cleaners will take off
I have a Honda accord with similar issues , i will try the same repairs. Thank you very much.
It's the iacv on the accord.
Good video, could be an awkward problem to diagnose say for a customer, because you can only charge a reasonable price, say 1.5hrs when you could have put 2hrs or more into trying to fix it, and in this particular case the customer would be back saying it is running better but the problem is still there, looked like the spark plugs needed changed and fuel filter, hard to tell how long it has been there, you could write on the new filter the date and mileage, for next time. Keep up the good work.
Hi Eric. I got a 2004 2L Turbo Legacy just about clocked 65K km. Low mileage considering its age but also well kept. I'm experiencing that same hesitation and I really wish to thank you for this video as you mentioned alot of possible fixes. You have so many great vids and its awesome you take the extra time and effort to go into details. Briansmobile1 spoke highly of you in a video of his and you are both truly Masters of your trade. A quick question if I may ask, what are your thoughts on the use of 15w-40 oil on my Subi? I live in the tropics, coldest temps rarely drops below 25 deg celcius and hottest about 33 celcius. I noticed with this engine, even at 'normal' operating temp, I find it gets really really hot even with the temp guage reading at normal range. Would be setting myself up for severe engine damage by using a 40 body oil?
13:07 The Situation with Hesitation on Acceleration, man Eric you're the new Eminem haha
There's a good reason why you don't want to use carb cleaner for a MAF - carb cleaner has a light oil dissolved into the solvent, so that when you clean a carb it also re-lubricates things. You don't want this oil getting on a MAF element, it will bake onto the wire and skew the reading just as bad as dirt and dust.
can i just offer this insight, i may be wrong, but i feel the name of this sensor is the reason why most people should just ignore it. Its called MASS air flow because it sense MASS airflow, not EXACT air flow sensor. I don't really think a crack causes performance issues, i think it causes hot idling issues, in that the extra air gets in,the O2 sensors get confused, and the ecu shuts the IAC valve temporarily causing stuttering, only at idle though!
I love watching people diagnose stuff!
subaru here sell an anti friction additive/goop and it works 99% of the time.they also have a subaru intake cleaner the you just spray into the intake as the engine is rev'ed and it cleans the internals.It's pretty damn good
the only thing I could think of is check the compression. I owned a 98 legacy with severe hesitation and it turned out to be cylinder 3 only getting 60psi. but I also noticed a occasional exhaust pop / blackened tail pipe.
They don't use parallel fuel rails so issues can unfortunately happen and cylinder 3,4 often most affected.
I now own another 99 legacy.. and spent countless hours researching my problem.
Eric, inbetween the MAF and the Throttle body baffle is a long cylinder like tube off to the side. Ive seen this on alot of newer vehicles, particularly Nissan's. What does it do? I mainly work on older German cars that dont have anything like that.
On a side note if you want to add a few MPG get rid of that throttle body muffler with a bit of stainless pipe.
There is a sensor that went bad on my 02 3.4 liter Alero and threw that code. I believe it was a air/fuel intake temperature sensor (not a intake air temp sensor, this one is a spring/screw looking sensor that adjust timing based on fuel temperature). When it goes out, it throws that cylinder 1 misfire, and hesitates on take off, and may cut off when coasting to a stop.
13:05 "The situation with the hesitation on acceleration" Smooth! :D
I drive a 1993 Honda Civic ex. I have a full hesitation, my car won’t move from a dead stop unless I press the gas all the way but very very slowly I block traffic at times. I’ve already changed the fuel filter, spark plugs, alternator, and distributor. Oil change is done. I do hear a little knock when my engine starts. But also when I start it it’ll sputter and shut off. No engine light, no battery light, no oil leaks or anything
I just fixed a really bad engine performance problem on a 2003 Martrix by de sludging with a can of WYNN'S engine tune up and driving 25 miles and changing the oil and filter. I also put 2 bottles of WYNN'S gas treatment in the tank. Good places to start. Clean, Clean, Clean!!!
4:38 That's called a plenum chamber. It balances out erratic intake pulses. ;)
eric, honist question bud, im drunk as a skunk right now and i see ya shakin at @740. what the drink drink of choice. love the videos man, keep er up. drew chisholm from nova scotia canada
Just a very good carb cleaning made a big difference on how my truck ran,
the out side of the carb looked dirty.
Thank you very much Eric I am really hoping that you will find the problem, those problems are the hardest to find
Thanks for the reply. I knew it was bad, I was just wondering if it was from the certain chemicals in question. I'm a chemistry technician so I was just wondering. Hopefully your answer will clear it up for others. I really hope they don't use carb cleaner or WD-40. I don't see how Water Distribution would help a MAF. You're right. Thanks again!
i like erics videos even before i watch them, cuz i know that he knows what he is talking about. Thanks for the videos. You saved my ass so many times....
only thang is really shouldn't use carb cleaner cause of the residue that it leaves on the sensor could cause problems but like the vid helped me out a lot something thangs to go after
+Christian Leatherman Brake cleaner won't leave residue.
It has before and Eric has stated that in another video that it can cause that you're only supposed to use massive air flow sensor cleaner
+Christian Leatherman I'm pretty sure electronics cleaning spray will work just as well, if it's a kind that's just rubbing alcohol in a can anyways. doesn't leave any residue and is a very effective cleaner.
I agree...especially as you say. It will leave a residue compared to the MAF cleaner is a dryer compound chemical cleaner.
CD'S repairs and automotivej