Anodizing with Different Chemical Pre-Treatments
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.ค. 2024
- Let's take a look at the difference in color that occurs when we treat titanium with different chemical treatments. We compare Multi-Etch and Whink's Rust Remover against a piece of untreated titanium.
- วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
![THE TOYS x NONT TANONT - ดอกไม้ที่รอฝน (spring) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/pPa1d5cC8M4/mqdefault.jpg)
Nice comparison, Chris. We wanted to point out that while Whink works pretty well, it's the hydrofluoric acid that makes it work. We developed Multi-Etch specifically as a substitute for hydrofluoric which is a truly dangerous substance for both people and the environment. Also, Multi-Etch will retain whatever finish is on the titanium whereas solutions containing hydrofluoric will tend to make any finish matte. We appreciate your independent testing! Chris and Sandy Boothe, Multi-Etch LLC
Thanks guys. We're well aware of the difference and it's why I almost exclusively use Multi Etch.
Is there a way to buy Multi-Etch in a small amount like you can Whinks? I only have a small part to anodize and don't want to spend 50 bux
Or distribution in Europe??
I appreciate you for taking the time to compare these results. As far as I know this is the first video on TH-cam to compare and contrast whinks vs multietch with visual representation. Thank you!
I’ve used whinks rust remover and multi etch. I always noticed that I get a better colors with the multi etch but it’s definitely more time consuming having to heat it up to around 160 degrees but for now on I’ll be using multi etch on most of my anodizing jobs. Whinks rust remover definitely removes existing anodizing so much faster. I was always told after you use your etching solution to put it straight into distilled water until your about to anodize or it will form a oxidation layer again closing the titanium’s pores not allowing the electricity to flow through the titanium. Anyway love these types of anodizing vids. I can’t get enough of them. I also purchased some garnet blasting media as you suggested so I’m excited for my next stencil job.
You should do one on the different anodizing solutions.
Thanks for the video. I've watched several of your and I appreciate your willingness to experiment and show others.
Hey, thanks so much for making this. It’s super informative! Really appreciate it!
+Ferrum Forge Knife Works Great video, I'd love to see more stuff like this. It would be nice to see more in depth videos with interesting knife making topics like this. I'm sure people subscribed to this channel would like more inside baseball/esoteric topics covered in videos. Like more vids on anno stuff, heat treat, steel make up, larger scale knife production and blade geometry etc.
Awesome visual! What amperage were you using?
0:02 Hello there!
General Kenobi!
Hello Chris!
I would like to know which grade of titanium did you use for this experiments and does the pieces had the same finish (220 grit satin) before they were soaked in Multi-Etch and Whink´s Rust? Thank you for you videos!
Do you think I could wipe on and rinse off multi etch for a large panel?
Hi Chris,
Was a new control piece used for successive higher voltages or only one? If it's only 1, wouldn't the existing layers of oxide hamper further oxide formation without etching?
Thanks for a nice and informative video BTW.
The short answer is no, the thin layer of oxide that is formed on titanium in atmosphere at room temperature will not hamper further oxide formation. The longer answer is that it doesn't matter if there is existing oxide on the work piece because oxide builds on itself. For example, if you are anodizing a piece blue, you will see it transition from bronze to purple before it gets to blue. This is the oxide building up on the surface and light reflecting and refracting differently within the crystalline structure of titanium oxide. Unlike iron oxides, titanium oxide is translucent and the colors presented are completely due to the way light interacts with the oxide layer and our eyes.
@@FerrumForge
Thanks for the detailed response Chris.
What's their surface finishes? Are they all same? Satin?
Wild stuff Chris. Thanks! Is there some process that will allow you to get an orange?
Orange is tough. There is a very small part of the spectrum that is a dark bronze and is almost orange looking, but it's hard to get correct.
I got multi etch and for some reason my colors aren’t bright like this! What am I doing wrong!?
Never mind anodizing the peach. Have you tried anodizing *in* a peach?
*Uses scientific method effectively*
*Creates pretty colors and useful info*
*Says blurple* xD
Thumbs up
I use whink and a 9v setup. And in my experience and after experimenting, that piece was in the Whink too long. I’ll DM you on IG to show you some of my result. I remove from the Whink just as it starts to bubble vigorously. I’m @frost606 on IG.
You're correct, but this was just for the sake of demonstrating some of the variables that go into anodizing. I had no intention of making it perfect so that everyone can see the differences. The inconsistency is one of the main reasons why we don't use Whink's very much. Also, we dislike the way the titanium feels in hand after etching with sulfuric acid. It's something I haven't talked about in the videos, but the feel of the finish is almost as important as the way it looks.
@@FerrumForge Question for you... I am going to have these scales professionally anodized, but they would like me to remove the "F" on my own first. I have some Whink's already on hand and had planned on using that. Do you think I would be better of trying to use Multi-Etch, or would it not be strong enough?
The other option would be to use a Brillo pad, but I am concerned that I won't be able to make the finish even because of the contouring.
i.imgur.com/4TGuBSA.jpg
Thanks and keep up the fantastic work! I'm really enjoying my Keen and Gent.
I want to buy a knife