Ah, dude, If I only had this video 5-6 years ago when I did my first (home) anodization, it would save me few months of research. You put literally everything in just 30min. Bravo
Fun fact(as any mechanical engineer or toolmaker will tell you) never draft an assembly out of steel that rubs against aluminum unless you plan for the steel component to be the wear component as well as the aluminum one. You would think that the steel would wear the aluminum, and it does, but it more so wears the steel. This is due to the aluminum oxide on the surface of the aluminum. Steel averages somewhere about 5-6.5 mohs hardness, whereas aluminum oxide falls around a 9. And as soon as the steel wears away the oxidation layer, a brand new one forms to come fuck your whole world up. There is your pro-tip for the day. Good work on the channel guy, I have a solid mechanical/machinist/toolmaking/engineering background and you still find a way to publish topics I had either forgotten or you find ways to teach these concepts in a way that makes other things click a bit easier. Kudos, keep up the hard work! Thank you, on behalf of the dying trades everywhere for making clear, relevant, accurate, and easily intelligible information attainable to all.
That's not to say you can't make really good bearings from a suitable grade of alu alloy, provided the lubrication is never allowed to cease. Even on non-hardened steel journals. In fact I'm aware of aircraft landing-gear bearings, nose alignment bushings on high tonnage hydraulic press cylinders, and even water-air type turbines operating with aluminium bearings at over 80m/s surface speed -- 30,000 rpm +
Such a pair has also another interesting effect. When it exposed to a damp weather and there's significant amount of friction between these metals, aluminum corroded terribly due to local wearing of oxide layer and forming a galvanic pair between metals in witch pair aluminum is in weak position. Such a process causes pitting perforations of aluminum fuel tanks of trucks under the steel straps if there's no rubber or plastic between them.
This is the most thorough and well-made video in the topic. I can imagine how much work it was to handle all the sample parts but it is always worth to wait for your content. Please do a Patreon, I would support you.
Huge compliments for not cutting any corners, but producing actual samples for so many variations and a big Thank You for providing so much learning opportunities.
Wow, i did an anodizing experiment once back then and all my lecturer said was just clean the metal, dip it into this bath, this bath, wait some minutes, put back into the first bath, clean it again, do some polishing and done. Never knew anodizing is actually this complicated. Thanks for making this great content Adam!
I just can't express with words how great this video is! Where do I even start with? Adam, I can only say thank you for the tons of work you've put into this lecture on how to be perfect. I can tear my engineering degree and feel safe, because I can always refer to your videos and they are better than any university ;)
This is a very well & thoroughly explained video on anodizing. I believe that I could do quality anodizing in my garage right _now_ based on this information. However, I have to pick nits and point out that different color dyes (at least for "professional" anodizing) can require different temperatures. At work we used different temperatures for almost every color that we fooled with -- from 80° at the lowest end up to 160°F at the highest end depending on which color it was. Temperatures between 125° & 140°F actually would have fit inside the _allowable_ ranges for all four colors that we used. (Past tense since I'm now retired. We did aviation anodizing, so the specs & testing were tight.) Of course, I've selected the widest-cases of the allowable temperature ranges here just to show that there is or can be a difference, but that info should come from your dye OEM, if using the professional stuff. I think the average home- or small-shop anodizer should be able to do an acceptable job just using the information given in this video. Thanks again for a very well thought-out & filmed video! I'm recently subscribed and looking forward to the next video, but will binge watch to catch up from your first video.
Well done sir. Super underrated videos and channel. You may not have a lot of videos, but the quality is fantastic and I always learn somethings. Thank you. Looking forward to part 4.
This guy had me watching a thirty minute video about dunking aluminium discs in some spicy water. I'm really quite impressed. No but seriously I didn't even know anodizing was this involved.... You did a great job explaining this.
Well now I'm annoyed at myself for avoiding this video thinking it was primarily gonna be talking about air bearings haha! All of the testing was great to understand how basic procedure effect the end results. Beautiful work, time to see what else you got!
What a great vid. I never could get my power supply to work right. I did the short of the two connectors like you. Perfect now. Amps stay right where it needs to be. Thanks!
Thanks, Adam. When looking into this previously, I had to cobble together the information from many different videos and sources. It's nice to have a one-stop source with multiple comparative test pieces to showcase the differences a change in parameters makes.
dang boyyyyy all Ive been searching and sticking together from many different videos on youtube are all found here, well condensed and thoroughly explained. Thanks.
This is a fantastic video. Best on this subject. I would love to see a video of type III anodizing. Have you ever attempted this? I am also curious if you have ever measured your oxide layer thickness and if you have ever anodized titanium?
I have not attempted Type III anodizing because of the temperature control requirements. Might be worth a go? I have not checked the oxide layer thickness. This is a logical next step in my experiments. I'm sure there will be lots to learn from it. There are a number of ways to do it, including eddy-current gages or microscopic inspection. A friend of mine has access to a scanning electron microscope, so I may go that route. I have anodized titanium many times. It's extremely simple and requires much less equipment and nasty chemicals than aluminum anodizing. The way it works is a little different. I left a reply on another comment here in which I described the basic idea.
@@LaneyMachineTech Is your friend Applied Science? ;) I haven't heard of eddy current gauges but a microscope came to my mind. I have an out there idea for ballistic plates made from aluminum or titanium with a super thick oxide layer. Like the silicon glass/polycarbonate layers in ballistic glass. Would be super interested if you did one on Titanium too!
Thanks for the support, Michael! I've been at this for almost four years now, so if I haven't "blown up" by now, I seriously doubt it's going to happen. In any case, there's no way in heck I could keep up with the kind of uploading frequency required to maintain a popular TH-cam channel.
@@LaneyMachineTech Don't despair! Quality > quantity. There are popular channels out there that prosper on high quality over frequency, such as Clickspring and Coreteks, and are some of my favorite channels. You deserve a much larger audience with the quality you're bringing to the table. I know TH-cam's algo may favor high frequency, but your content is not limited to TH-cam.
Saw the hat; we used to do that at my previous job for holes in flat surfaces at 45 degrees. Drill bits would skate off but mill bits worked. Pretty expensive way to make holes in general though, since the materials, espeicially the zinc and copper, rapidly dulled the bit.
Oxalic acid can be used to make very dense anodized layers but you need very high voltages (150v and up!) and serious cooling to keep your anodizing bath close to 0C° I use this anodizing bath to make custom PCBs for surface mount high power LEDs.
i always thought the colour comes from the anodizing itself oh also i really like that your videos are always on point and without much chatting, straight to the point. Stay Safe!
I think other metals can anodise that way, titanium for one, I’m pretty sure I once saw in a video where old mate did it in a time lapse by raising it out of the electrolyte, caused it to anodise different colours
@@thomasa5619 Yes, titanium anodizing is a different mechanism altogether. I kinda wanted to mention it in the video, but it was already getting too long. If you look at the titanium rod I used to electrically connect the aluminum part, you'll notice that it also turned a different color, but not orange like the part. Titanium anodizing still relies on growing an oxide layer, but it does not use dye for coloring. The coloring occurs because of interference effects of light waves when reflecting off the thin transparent oxide layer and the part surface. The thickness of the titanium oxide layer determines which light wavelengths interact constructively and destructively, and therefore which color dominates in the light reflected from the titanium part's surface. Titanium anodizing is a voltage-dependent process, unlike aluminum anodizing which is a current-dependent process (as demonstrated in the video). The voltage determines the color in titanium anodizing. Here's a link to a good description of the science behind the process: mrtitanium.com/interference.html
Love the hat (cap). Small disclaimer needs to be added *only "drill" using an end mill on machine tools such as a vertical milling machine or lathe. AvE has warning stickers for this. I watched a very expensive mag drill fall 10+ feet to its destruction because the "millright" chucked up an endmill.
Great videos about air bearing!!! Waiting for the next film. Really enjoyable videos in spite I do not speak English freely(I'm from Ukraine). I decided to watch several lectures from you another channel "Laney Machine Tech" (while waiting for the next film about the Air bearing) they are useful for me as well. Great job!
Thank you very much, very informative, excellent amount of detailed information. Not that I will do this myself, but it's good to know what happens and how to ask and request the vendor to alter the anodizing process to achieve a desired result.
This is great! Special thanks to showing what happens if you do something wrong - this will greatly help anyone trying to figure out whats wrong with their process! Also I have same power supply and leads :P
So what happened to this video series about air bearings? No more videos? I would have liked to see a video about the finished bearings and your implementation with them, if there was any.
Please make a video about Galvanising steel, like chrome plating or nickle plating,. There are many videos on youtube but they are mostely hear say and guesses. How do you achive the best bond between steel and chrome? Is the surface finish of the bare steel important? Can you polish/lap the chrome to make the dimensions fit after galvanising, for, let's say, the inside of a bearing?
This is good stuff. Excellent description full of detail. I follow your post on Instagram as well, and it is the same over there. I so appreciate you taking the time to make these videos and posts. Thank you!
Hey, I probably won't be able to work on the Air Bearing series until late August. All of my videos are filmed in the machine shop at the college where I work. Unfortunately, because of covid-19, all of our machine shop classes were put on hold and instructors are given only limited access to the campus until the shelter-in-place restrictions in our area are relaxed. Until then, I am focusing on developing more content for future videos. I've been experimenting with hard anodizing to make a diamond-impregnated lap (similar to an "Ablap", if you've heard of that product) to lap the air bearings. And I'm designing and building an autocollimator from surplus optical components to inspect the granite ways for the ultra precision lathe.
@@LaneyMachineTech Keep the good work! Any video of yours is always welcome. I'd still be interested in a die video as a continuation of the tap one or mechanical seals.
Generally I prefer to find the surface area of a part using the current relationship rather than using the number solidworks spits out. I put a sheet of known size into the solution and apply a low voltage. I then take note of the current and then introduce the part with unknown surface area. The relationship between current and surface area is mostly linear which makes it easy to determine the surface of the unknown part. Since the surface area was determined under similar environmental conditions to the anodizing process I generally prefer it over the calculated geometry. Of course I'm not trying to say your method is wrong or anything, just sharing my own because I thought it was relevant.
Machine Tech Video Blog: One other thing about surface area: you stated the area ratio backwards, I think, when you said the anode to cathode ratio should be 3:1. The cathode should be bigger than anode. Your setup used a bigger cathode, but you did say you the rule need not be strictly adhered to, so clarifying which is supposed to be bigger (maybe with a pinned comment) might be worth considering, that's if you agree that it's open to misinterpretation. Given the high standards you set for clarity and accuracy, I did do a double take.
@@Gottenhimfella There's a little confusion on the internet about which electrode (anode or cathode) should have more surface area. Based on my research and personal experience, I believe it's a 3:1 anode-to-cathode ratio. So, the anode should have more surface area than the cathode. Or rather I should say that the anode CAN have more surface area than the cathode. There's no harm, as far as I understand it, in having a cathode which has much more surface area than the anode. And in home anodizing, when parts and batches are small, it's easy to arbitrarily increase the surface area of the cathode. Since this won't hurt anything, it's probably why the misconception that the cathode must have more surface area than the anode has persisted. Since the electrical current used in the anodizing process is dependent on the part's surface area, it makes sense to base the minimum surface area of the cathode on the surface area of the anode. If the surface area of the cathode is too small, there will be electrical issues and potential burning of the cathode. The purpose of the magic 3:1 ratio is to maintain a minimum cathode size when dealing with variability in the surface areas of anodized parts. It's not something which needs to be adjusted from job to job, but it is widely used as a rule of thumb when designing anodizing cells for industrial finishing applications. Here's a good forum thread on the subject: www.finishing.com/34/37.shtml
Excellent video, you really need to get more views! Also if possible please do a supplement getting into detail for both pre-treatments, even a video regarding anodizing of different metals :)
very good video i did some anodizing on some parts that i welded and the weld turn black during the anodizing and didnt take color good is that because the weld is not 6061
If the weld turned gray or black, then it's almost certainly because the weld rod you used was made of 4043 alloy. 5356 alloy is the one finishing shops recommend for parts which are going to be anodized. But even that alloy will have a noticeably poor appearance if the material is overheated during welding.
Overall good video 👍. But when comparing the contaminants of bare hands, and light oil, why did you use the EXACT same photo for both? Was it a slip-up?
Ah, dude, If I only had this video 5-6 years ago when I did my first (home) anodization, it would save me few months of research. You put literally everything in just 30min. Bravo
Fun fact(as any mechanical engineer or toolmaker will tell you) never draft an assembly out of steel that rubs against aluminum unless you plan for the steel component to be the wear component as well as the aluminum one. You would think that the steel would wear the aluminum, and it does, but it more so wears the steel. This is due to the aluminum oxide on the surface of the aluminum. Steel averages somewhere about 5-6.5 mohs hardness, whereas aluminum oxide falls around a 9. And as soon as the steel wears away the oxidation layer, a brand new one forms to come fuck your whole world up.
There is your pro-tip for the day.
Good work on the channel guy, I have a solid mechanical/machinist/toolmaking/engineering background and you still find a way to publish topics I had either forgotten or you find ways to teach these concepts in a way that makes other things click a bit easier. Kudos, keep up the hard work! Thank you, on behalf of the dying trades everywhere for making clear, relevant, accurate, and easily intelligible information attainable to all.
Cool tip! Thanks, Chuck!
That's not to say you can't make really good bearings from a suitable grade of alu alloy, provided the lubrication is never allowed to cease. Even on non-hardened steel journals. In fact I'm aware of aircraft landing-gear bearings, nose alignment bushings on high tonnage hydraulic press cylinders, and even water-air type turbines operating with aluminium bearings at over 80m/s surface speed -- 30,000 rpm +
Such a pair has also another interesting effect. When it exposed to a damp weather and there's significant amount of friction between these metals, aluminum corroded terribly due to local wearing of oxide layer and forming a galvanic pair between metals in witch pair aluminum is in weak position. Such a process causes pitting perforations of aluminum fuel tanks of trucks under the steel straps if there's no rubber or plastic between them.
This is the most thorough and well-made video in the topic. I can imagine how much work it was to handle all the sample parts but it is always worth to wait for your content. Please do a Patreon, I would support you.
Bojler eladó!!
@@dortadewron Hány literes?
Can you please put a link to your final video about the air bearing manufacturing? I cannot find any video after this one.
Great tutorial, thank you for doing so many A/B comparisons of how variables affect the final product. Best walk through of the process I have seen!
Huge compliments for not cutting any corners, but producing actual samples for so many variations and a big Thank You for providing so much learning opportunities.
Learned "Something" ? Bro, I learned a TON of things. Great job, nice presentation and accurate information. Well done.GL
Wow, i did an anodizing experiment once back then and all my lecturer said was just clean the metal, dip it into this bath, this bath, wait some minutes, put back into the first bath, clean it again, do some polishing and done. Never knew anodizing is actually this complicated. Thanks for making this great content Adam!
This man's a gem! Thanks for these vids.
This is an amazingly detailed video! As a chemistry major (a long time ago), I can definitely appreciate the chemistry in your video.
God bless you, man! I’m waiting impatiently for your videos just as I was waiting for cartoons on TV as a child.
I just can't express with words how great this video is! Where do I even start with? Adam, I can only say thank you for the tons of work you've put into this lecture on how to be perfect. I can tear my engineering degree and feel safe, because I can always refer to your videos and they are better than any university ;)
Your videos are among the very rare gems in the big ocean of TH-cam. Exceptionally well made, very informative. Thanks for your content.
Thank you for the thorough breakdown. Other videos on the subject have only a fraction of the information, and none of the science.
This is a very well & thoroughly explained video on anodizing. I believe that I could do quality anodizing in my garage right _now_ based on this information. However, I have to pick nits and point out that different color dyes (at least for "professional" anodizing) can require different temperatures. At work we used different temperatures for almost every color that we fooled with -- from 80° at the lowest end up to 160°F at the highest end depending on which color it was. Temperatures between 125° & 140°F actually would have fit inside the _allowable_ ranges for all four colors that we used. (Past tense since I'm now retired. We did aviation anodizing, so the specs & testing were tight.) Of course, I've selected the widest-cases of the allowable temperature ranges here just to show that there is or can be a difference, but that info should come from your dye OEM, if using the professional stuff. I think the average home- or small-shop anodizer should be able to do an acceptable job just using the information given in this video.
Thanks again for a very well thought-out & filmed video! I'm recently subscribed and looking forward to the next video, but will binge watch to catch up from your first video.
The best tutorial on anodizing I’ve seen so far. Thanks a lot.
Well done sir. Super underrated videos and channel. You may not have a lot of videos, but the quality is fantastic and I always learn somethings. Thank you. Looking forward to part 4.
Excellent!!!!!! Just excellent ! All the knowledge well explained.
This guy had me watching a thirty minute video about dunking aluminium discs in some spicy water. I'm really quite impressed.
No but seriously I didn't even know anodizing was this involved.... You did a great job explaining this.
Great stuff, finally learned what causes bad results when stuff comes back from the platers - thanks for being so thorough!
Well now I'm annoyed at myself for avoiding this video thinking it was primarily gonna be talking about air bearings haha! All of the testing was great to understand how basic procedure effect the end results. Beautiful work, time to see what else you got!
This must be the best anodizing video at youtube, great job!
The best anodizing video on TH-cam so far.
What a great vid. I never could get my power supply to work right. I did the short of the two connectors like you. Perfect now. Amps stay right where it needs to be. Thanks!
I love all the technical details you explain in your videos. Thank you.
Awesome, hands down the best video on the subject, with all the experiments and explanation ! Thanks for your work you are an excellent teacher
Thanks, Adam. When looking into this previously, I had to cobble together the information from many different videos and sources. It's nice to have a one-stop source with multiple comparative test pieces to showcase the differences a change in parameters makes.
dang boyyyyy all Ive been searching and sticking together from many different videos on youtube are all found here, well condensed and thoroughly explained. Thanks.
This is a fantastic video. Best on this subject. I would love to see a video of type III anodizing. Have you ever attempted this? I am also curious if you have ever measured your oxide layer thickness and if you have ever anodized titanium?
I have not attempted Type III anodizing because of the temperature control requirements. Might be worth a go?
I have not checked the oxide layer thickness. This is a logical next step in my experiments. I'm sure there will be lots to learn from it. There are a number of ways to do it, including eddy-current gages or microscopic inspection. A friend of mine has access to a scanning electron microscope, so I may go that route.
I have anodized titanium many times. It's extremely simple and requires much less equipment and nasty chemicals than aluminum anodizing. The way it works is a little different. I left a reply on another comment here in which I described the basic idea.
@@LaneyMachineTech Is your friend Applied Science? ;) I haven't heard of eddy current gauges but a microscope came to my mind.
I have an out there idea for ballistic plates made from aluminum or titanium with a super thick oxide layer. Like the silicon glass/polycarbonate layers in ballistic glass.
Would be super interested if you did one on Titanium too!
😭😭😭 tfw no update in 9 months. The world begs for more of this high quality material
Well done video. Thanks for all your hard work putting this together. I look forward to giving this a try one day soon!
Best explanatory video on anodizing so far!
Just discovered this channel, well made! This channel is going to blow up!
Thanks for the support, Michael! I've been at this for almost four years now, so if I haven't "blown up" by now, I seriously doubt it's going to happen. In any case, there's no way in heck I could keep up with the kind of uploading frequency required to maintain a popular TH-cam channel.
@@LaneyMachineTech Don't despair! Quality > quantity. There are popular channels out there that prosper on high quality over frequency, such as Clickspring and Coreteks, and are some of my favorite channels. You deserve a much larger audience with the quality you're bringing to the table. I know TH-cam's algo may favor high frequency, but your content is not limited to TH-cam.
The hat, lol! I DRILL WITH END MILLS. The content and production value is excellent as well.
Saw the hat; we used to do that at my previous job for holes in flat surfaces at 45 degrees. Drill bits would skate off but mill bits worked. Pretty expensive way to make holes in general though, since the materials, espeicially the zinc and copper, rapidly dulled the bit.
Oxalic acid can be used to make very dense anodized layers but you need very high voltages (150v and up!) and serious cooling to keep your anodizing bath close to 0C° I use this anodizing bath to make custom PCBs for surface mount high power LEDs.
I couldn't agree more with the comments below! Well done sir and great a/b comparisons. Those will save me the effort. THANK YOU!
i always thought the colour comes from the anodizing itself
oh also i really like that your videos are always on point and without much chatting, straight to the point. Stay Safe!
I think other metals can anodise that way, titanium for one, I’m pretty sure I once saw in a video where old mate did it in a time lapse by raising it out of the electrolyte, caused it to anodise different colours
@@thomasa5619 Yes, titanium anodizing is a different mechanism altogether. I kinda wanted to mention it in the video, but it was already getting too long. If you look at the titanium rod I used to electrically connect the aluminum part, you'll notice that it also turned a different color, but not orange like the part. Titanium anodizing still relies on growing an oxide layer, but it does not use dye for coloring. The coloring occurs because of interference effects of light waves when reflecting off the thin transparent oxide layer and the part surface. The thickness of the titanium oxide layer determines which light wavelengths interact constructively and destructively, and therefore which color dominates in the light reflected from the titanium part's surface. Titanium anodizing is a voltage-dependent process, unlike aluminum anodizing which is a current-dependent process (as demonstrated in the video). The voltage determines the color in titanium anodizing. Here's a link to a good description of the science behind the process: mrtitanium.com/interference.html
I suspected as much but didn’t want to speculate so much, as you can see it was already far enough past my bedtime that my English was suffering
So stoked to watch this! Your last video was really great.
Amazing details buddy ! I work in semiconductor wafer fabrication industry as mech engg. This vid helped a lot !
Hey Adam.... Can you upload or make some videos on other mech stuff... ??? This channel is one of the best ever seen
Very good. Lots of good technical information and test results as opposed to opinions and feelings
Great, comprehensive video; thank you! Very well explained and clearly presented.
fantastic video - I always appreciate your enthusiasm and in depth knowledge
Really great series start... hope you continue soon!!
Finally here. I have been waiting for it.
Great Video and thank you so much for covering disposal of chemical wastes!
Love the hat (cap). Small disclaimer needs to be added *only "drill" using an end mill on machine tools such as a vertical milling machine or lathe. AvE has warning stickers for this. I watched a very expensive mag drill fall 10+ feet to its destruction because the "millright" chucked up an endmill.
Can you elaborate on the failure mode you mention here? What caused the accident?
Great videos about air bearing!!! Waiting for the next film. Really enjoyable videos in spite I do not speak English freely(I'm from Ukraine). I decided to watch several lectures from you another channel "Laney Machine Tech" (while waiting for the next film about the Air bearing) they are useful for me as well. Great job!
Thank you very much, very informative, excellent amount of detailed information. Not that I will do this myself, but it's good to know what happens and how to ask and request the vendor to alter the anodizing process to achieve a desired result.
This needs 1000x more views. Subscribed
This is great! Special thanks to showing what happens if you do something wrong - this will greatly help anyone trying to figure out whats wrong with their process!
Also I have same power supply and leads :P
I've watched this video multiple times already.
That's not enough for this video! We demand more for this video!
*sigh* it's never enough...
Please make a PDF or even a book into the subject of making professional air bearings... really need this stuff...
We're so glad to see you again, thanks for your work 💪
Excellent deep ,detailed and informative video as always.
What a video! Great illustrations!
So what happened to this video series about air bearings? No more videos? I would have liked to see a video about the finished bearings and your implementation with them, if there was any.
Great tutorial on the black art of anodizing.
Awesome video Adam!! So much information clearly explained. Looking forward to the next video .....👍👍🧑🔬
Perfect Explanation of anodizing available on TH-cam 👆🏻 Thankyou
Please make a video about Galvanising steel, like chrome plating or nickle plating,. There are many videos on youtube but they are mostely hear say and guesses. How do you achive the best bond between steel and chrome? Is the surface finish of the bare steel important? Can you polish/lap the chrome to make the dimensions fit after galvanising, for, let's say, the inside of a bearing?
This is great content for anodizing. Also lots of work for those tests... can you please also explain electropolishing for gloss anodized finish ?
I love when you upload!
Amazing detail.. Bravo!!! VERY well done.. thanks for sharing
Hi Adam, I enjoyed very much this video. It has very interesting information. Thanks, I look for the next one.
Love the videos man! Keep em coming!
Hey .
Well done video.
Can you please add video how to alodine aluminum ?
Thanks for your answer
Very very precise and rich of details. Thank you for your information.
10:38 and then did you put the lotion on your skin or did you get the hose again?
i would like to hear you talking more about Coupling alignment please
Always learning new stuff
This is good stuff. Excellent description full of detail. I follow your post on Instagram as well, and it is the same over there. I so appreciate you taking the time to make these videos and posts. Thank you!
I'm pretty much obsessed with titanium anodizing right now so I figured I should really learn how to do aluminum honestly it seems more useful
Perfect !! thank you ..regards from Thessaloniki Greece
Talk about comprehensive! Great stuff!
Hi, so when we will see next Air Bearing production part? Now its YEAR from this last part... :/
Adam, don't abandon us for a whole year again!
Hey, I probably won't be able to work on the Air Bearing series until late August. All of my videos are filmed in the machine shop at the college where I work. Unfortunately, because of covid-19, all of our machine shop classes were put on hold and instructors are given only limited access to the campus until the shelter-in-place restrictions in our area are relaxed. Until then, I am focusing on developing more content for future videos. I've been experimenting with hard anodizing to make a diamond-impregnated lap (similar to an "Ablap", if you've heard of that product) to lap the air bearings. And I'm designing and building an autocollimator from surplus optical components to inspect the granite ways for the ultra precision lathe.
@@LaneyMachineTech Keep the good work! Any video of yours is always welcome. I'd still be interested in a die video as a continuation of the tap one or mechanical seals.
how is the air bearing going? we want to see the full tutorial and results.
Really, really nice job Adam! :)
Do you suggest, of using anodised aluminium rods when making antennas, even if we managed a good contactivity...?
Awesome Tutorial. . . 😳
Thank You 🙏
Generally I prefer to find the surface area of a part using the current relationship rather than using the number solidworks spits out. I put a sheet of known size into the solution and apply a low voltage. I then take note of the current and then introduce the part with unknown surface area. The relationship between current and surface area is mostly linear which makes it easy to determine the surface of the unknown part. Since the surface area was determined under similar environmental conditions to the anodizing process I generally prefer it over the calculated geometry. Of course I'm not trying to say your method is wrong or anything, just sharing my own because I thought it was relevant.
Wow, I never would have thought of that.
Machine Tech Video Blog: One other thing about surface area: you stated the area ratio backwards, I think, when you said the anode to cathode ratio should be 3:1.
The cathode should be bigger than anode. Your setup used a bigger cathode, but you did say you the rule need not be strictly adhered to, so clarifying which is supposed to be bigger (maybe with a pinned comment) might be worth considering, that's if you agree that it's open to misinterpretation.
Given the high standards you set for clarity and accuracy, I did do a double take.
@@Gottenhimfella There's a little confusion on the internet about which electrode (anode or cathode) should have more surface area. Based on my research and personal experience, I believe it's a 3:1 anode-to-cathode ratio. So, the anode should have more surface area than the cathode. Or rather I should say that the anode CAN have more surface area than the cathode. There's no harm, as far as I understand it, in having a cathode which has much more surface area than the anode. And in home anodizing, when parts and batches are small, it's easy to arbitrarily increase the surface area of the cathode. Since this won't hurt anything, it's probably why the misconception that the cathode must have more surface area than the anode has persisted.
Since the electrical current used in the anodizing process is dependent on the part's surface area, it makes sense to base the minimum surface area of the cathode on the surface area of the anode. If the surface area of the cathode is too small, there will be electrical issues and potential burning of the cathode. The purpose of the magic 3:1 ratio is to maintain a minimum cathode size when dealing with variability in the surface areas of anodized parts. It's not something which needs to be adjusted from job to job, but it is widely used as a rule of thumb when designing anodizing cells for industrial finishing applications.
Here's a good forum thread on the subject: www.finishing.com/34/37.shtml
@@LaneyMachineTech That makes sense. Thanks for clarifying.
Your videos are awesome, keep up the good work
Is there a part 4 for the air bearings project?
Excellent video, you really need to get more views! Also if possible please do a supplement getting into detail for both pre-treatments, even a video regarding anodizing of different metals :)
Great content and presentation, as always
I like the level of details. Thank you
Are you using different colors of orange to show a uniformity vs a light or dark color?
very good video i did some anodizing on some parts that i welded and the weld turn black during the anodizing and didnt take color good is that because the weld is not 6061
If the weld turned gray or black, then it's almost certainly because the weld rod you used was made of 4043 alloy. 5356 alloy is the one finishing shops recommend for parts which are going to be anodized. But even that alloy will have a noticeably poor appearance if the material is overheated during welding.
Very cool series! Are you going to finish this series so we can see the air bearings perform?
So excellent! How is it the color is still visible if the tops of the pores are sealed?
Aluminum oxide and aluminum monohydrate are both transparent in thin sections.
it was awesome again and fully detailed thank you before i never understood anodizing but after your video XD
Where is the next parts where you complete the bearing integration?
This was a very informative and well explained procedure, thanks for the effort, keep up with the good work.
Constant current huh? Does that mean I could use a stick welder as a power source to anodize large parts?
Overall good video 👍. But when comparing the contaminants of bare hands, and light oil, why did you use the EXACT same photo for both? Was it a slip-up?
We came for air bearings, we stayed for the anodizing.
Very comprehensive!
I filled wrote everything in my lab note book. Thank you!
Hi by chance do you know the chemical formula for aluminum polishing?