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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ก.ค. 2024
- In this video we look at how to hand paint isopropyl alcohol based paint on a pre primed surface for model kits. Brands include:
-Tamiya Acrylic
- gunze sangyo aqueous hobby color
You will need brushes and 90% or higher isopropyl alcohol as a thinner. Tamiya thinner will also do.
Here is a really a video on priming via hand painting:
• Gundam/ mech model wor...
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Great tips dude. They'll help me out a lot. Thanks
cool tutorial Alan! hope you are well mate and had a good christmas and new year! :) Thanks for taking the time to put together this tutorial. Love Kamm
Happy new year Kamm, I worked all christmas and new year but it was good. Hope everything is well on your side of the world.
I've heard that you can put the thinner into the tamiya paint bottle up to the inner lip and it's good to go. Does that apply just to airbrushing or does it work for hand paint as well?
Can I use other paint thinner products like you know other companies
This video helped me paint my Academy F-16. I used to use enamels but am moving to acrylics because they are less toxic.
Hi, I'm having problems getting the paint to stay on edges/convex corners, it just seems to run of, does this mean I have thinned it to much (I used 1:1 ratio of 99% alcohol with tamiya orange) or will it simply require more coats?
Which one is better for you, build the model first or paint them first? Is thinner really necessary? I used Titanium Silver which already aged for a year with tamiya thinner and somehow the paint doesn't stick to the model. My another experience is using Olive Drab with small amount of thinner, and the result are rather depressing: The paint doesn't stick into the edges and they tend to stay in the center (flat droplets-like form). Do you know what to do with this problem? Thank you beforehand.
Thank you!
I tried out Tamiya acrylics for brush painting and here's what I found.
They give you a very smooth finish even without thinning but since the pigment density is low, it takes a million coats to paint light colours like white, yellow, etc.
Compared to all the paint's I've used pigment density is terrible. A good reason why I've moved to lacquers.
mokanaman
You said an equal amount of paint and thinner, does that mean if I put ten drops of paint onto the palette, I have to add ten drops of thinner?
More or less that is about correct until you have the ability to tell how thin the paint is eye balling it while string the contents.
when you apply the primer do you spray paint the primer or hand brush it as well? sorry new to painting and building gunpla
+asassin93 Personally I spray but I do have a review/ tutorial on hand painting primer. Also no need to apologize I'm here to help.
one more question.. can i use fine surface primer & then the tamiya ps-15 (metallic red) or the ps-2 (red) spray paint? would it look like a shiny gundam?
Best off using red ps-2 and a few coats of clear gloss.
Hi I'm new to painting, and gunpla in general but I want to hand paint my first custom. Would you reccomend Enamels or Acrylics more?
Hello, I would recommend trying both on two different models and seeing for your self which one is more fun and easy to and if you like the look of it.
Does the thinner and paint need to be on the same ratio? Or you can add more thinner than the paint?
Hand painting the ratio is purely up to you. A good start to test is 50/50 mix but I normally go more thinner then paint.
The only tutorial I found useful since I just have paints and thinner.
Just asking, what else paints work? Do water based paint work? Or even water color?
With this method using the correct thinner any paint can work. I would advise against water colors, polyurethane and water based as they have adhesion issues and could life from handling or masking. If you are looking something extremely cheap you can't go wrong with cheap enamels remembering to mix well or the pain will be tacky for a long period of time.
Sorry I didn't understand too well but..... what is the alcohol for? And will it be ok if I don't use any primer?
The alcohol is what the thinner is made of.
After airbrushing with acrylics wats the best way to seal the paint so it doesnt scratch off easily?
A topcoat usually helps.
do you need to prime the part before painting or just go ahead?
Yes you do need to prime for this to work.
how to clean used paint brushes?
does is require special liquid or something?
You can also use the same thinner to clean the brush or to save money any other cheaper solvent.
can i use regular acrylic paint for gundam cuz tamiya acrylic paint is expensive.. i can get a big bottle for a cheaper price
You can, but the results may be different and you will need to add more layers and have higher chance of errors.
Hi mokanaman, I was wondering how do you clean your brush and painting tray after painting? with thinner?
I dip the brush in thinner and wipe it from base to tip with tissue to reform the brush tip. Keep doing this until soft and clean.
After you hand brush the model, what do you use to panel line? I applied 2-3 coats of Pledge Future coat, then I tried to apply panel lines with both gundam marker and vallejo paint. I found out that if I made any kind of mistake, it is almost impossible to remove the error with dry q tip. The gundam marker dye within 2 seconds and stick to the paint like glue. It is removable with alcohol, but it also remove the paint after with the top coat.
If it help I used Krylon grey primer, I think I spray it a bit too thick since the primer hid some of the lines. Thanks.
I use tamiya accent color or Citadel water base ink. I find these two easy to clean if mistakes are made on future floor. Also if the primer is too think scribe the pannel lines with your hobby knife to make them deeper after priming drys and before painting.
Thanks! I will try that.
is it normal to see bubbles when hand painting the kit already even when you mix it with thinner?
Bubbles in the paint on the model on in the dish? Stir with stick slowly and apply slowly, if bubbles re apply again with empty brush,
Hey, if i were to paint a colored piece (not neutral like white, black or grey), would I need to give it a white flat coat or should I just brush on the color I want it to be? For instance, I'm planning on painting a red piece some shade of grey. What would you advise?
Normally primer is neutral is color most gray, most colors will be bright and vibrant on top. If you are painting a gundam originally red and white one color the red areas will look darker. If all pieces have a single under color of primer they will all look the same in shade. If you are painting yellow flesh or white the under coat needs to be light in color too.
Very sorry for the late reply, hope his helps.
I think I got it. Primer makes colors uniform. Dark colors make the coat on top of it darker. But if I have to paint a color on top that is light I have to use a light colored primer. Thanks
Silver Myst
correct, sometimes if you can't get different colored primers you would use a under coat. Like grey primer, black paint then main color. Also a lot of millitary models use a rust red primer as real weapon do the same to achieve the same shade of color.
Can you point me to a good resource on ow to strip an entire acrylic painted model to repaint? I started with an acrylic solvent but I can seem to get this grease residue of. It hardens leaving a film on the model?
+Charles Mumpower Sure can, th-cam.com/video/0BQL-iaAKo4/w-d-xo.html
Sweetness. Thank you...
Every time i paint detail with acrylics i need to put on 3-4 coats to get a completely un-translucent finish. is it because i do not put any thinner in the paint?
When detailing you do not have to thin the paint as the surface is so small you wont get streaks. Check to see your regularly mixing your paint jar and if it has thinner from airbrushing consider buying a jar just for hand painting.
mokanaman That might be the problem. The jars came with a liquid that i had to mix. It probably is paint thinner, thanks for the help.
How much time to I give in between coats to dry.
10-24 hours is ideal for best results but every few hours can work depends on humidity, temperature and how thin the mix the mix is and how thick you applied it. My process is tedious but yields a great result on a budget.
Can I use any acrylic paints? Or does it have to be specific acrylic paints for modeling? I have some acrylics i used to use for painting canvas.
Canvas acrylics can be a tad thick but some have successfully used them
for models. I recommend painting a test piece to see what you have
works.
thanks!
can I use this to paint over nub marks on my gunpla?
mokanaman OK thx man
Good tutorial. I was wundering if you ever use retarder to help with self-leveling?
rarely for acrylic as it effects the scratch and chip resistance of acrylic. A little is good for lacquers and top coats over metallic.
so it need at least 3 times painting?
yes
Hi Dennis here, building a work bench can you please tell me how high your work bench is.
Thanks Dennis sells
standard trestle table, using the same table from the old workshop (this video) to were I am now. Around 75cm
Can i use water for thinner
Yes, but the finish is much nicer with the correct thinner. A bottle will last years and it is little effort in getting one.
did i must use thinner? how's the result if i not using any thinner? mokanaman
You may get brush strokes or a ruff/ bumpy tetexture.
what if it's a 70% solution isoprpyl alcohol
p.s will it leave marks
test it on and spoon or runners and see if you like it. If the mix works run with it on a model.
mokanaman wow you actually replied in 10 minutes thanks man
Just happens to be logged on, glad to be of assistance. I check for questions every days.
Do i have to worry on accidentally scraping the paint off the surface?
Once fully dried and hardened on a primed surface it should be fine. Clear varnish does add extra protection from scratches and chipping.
I see. Thank you.
Mind if I ask but if I'm using tamiya acrylics for an air brush, preferably what should I thin it with (specific product please?) and in what ratio should I thin it in?
+Ago Himawan Tamiya is already quite thin enough, use isopropyl alcohol of any brand or the Tamiya brand or tamiya acrylic thinner X-20a
+mokanaman Ahhh ok thx, mind if also ask the specified ratio for thinning it?
For a normal airbrush cup stir the jar half fill the air brush cup and add a few dropps of thinner between 5-7 via eye drop. Or 1 part thinner to 5 part paint.
+mokanaman ahhh ok, thx a bunch man! (btw greeting's from Indonesia)
Ha thank you, I have a few viewers in Indonesia. You may find some active and nice facebook groups in your language.
People say that acrylic is ideally used for airbrushing as it dries really quickly, the paint does not have time to even out on the surface. On the other hand, enamel paint dries slowly thus levels itself over time, allowing a more cleaner finish. I'm using acrylic paint on a 1/144 real grade gunpla using the old fashioned hand paint method (too poor to afford airbrush lol). Any tips to make it turn out nicely?
In theory that is correct but to understand that you need to know how atomizing works within an airbrush. When the paint particles fly in the air it starts to dry before it hits the model. When hand painting the paint goes from jar to model with out making contact with the air and takes longer to dry dus self levels. My advice is to follow this video and practices. Be neat in painting detail and different areas. It is also true enamel is better but you will find method will work nicely.
mokanaman Really helpful video! I'll try to practise what you showed me.
How long did you let the paint dry between coats?
A number of hours, might get away with 2-3 layers a day for the best
possible results. I use to do a coat a day and have a number of projects
on the go at the same time.
mokanaman
Alright, thanks! I'm planning on buying some retarder, would a day be enough time between coats?
It is more then enough for an ideal finish.
mokanaman
Thanks! Even though I don't do gunpla, I watch these tutorials because I use Japanese paint and equipment for my aircraft. Your channel has been a huge help!
Gunpla only makes up about 30% of my content but more or less the same
methods across the board. Thank you for your feedback man, glad to be of
assistance.
So Mr Hobby can be thinned with isopropyl alcohol?
Aqueous Hobby Color can, Mr Hobby color cannot as it is lacquer.
mokanaman Thanks for confirming... so it's lacquer thinner for their regular paint, got it, thanks.
do you have to sand a kit before painting it ?
I only sand seam lines and nubs. Because I use primer before painting sanding is not needed to alter the kits finish or promote paint adhesion.
mokanaman hello mokanaman. if i sand the whole model can i skip the primer?
Sanding the model will only assist one aspect primer has which is etching. Issue is you will have different under colors affecting your base coats and all the scratch marks will show if you are attempting a gloss finish.
With high risk jobs like resin or lots of masking I would sand and prime. But because there is a lot of mixed information on facebook and youtube regarding modeling and painting I'm happy to offer my methods with evidence based results to help inform those wanting the best results. On the other hand some of the younger foke other there want to save money and time.
+mokanaman You are right about mixed information on YT. I'm a beginner modeler and I've been trying to find out what's better for brush painting, enamels,or acrylics. This is really not possible here on YT, half of the people swear by enamels (while trashing acrylics) ,and the other half of people the other way round. But generally speaking ,one can pick up a lot of useful information about modeling on YT.Anyway,thank you for taking time to respond!
need to adjust the video so we can see what exactly you're doing there.
So... can you thin out acrylic paint by just using isopropyl alcohol?
+Miguel Pabello yes you can.
+mokanaman do you need to thin the paint?
yes as per tutorial.
mokanaman OK can I use water or does it have to be thinner
Thinner has a better result, I welcome you to try water and seeing if the finish is good enough to your standard.
hi, i wanted to know if 70% alcohol stil works even if its worse, and does the isopropyl and normal one differ?
It will still work, it will harder to control flow and drying but every brand is different so it is recommended to test on some runners before painting a part or kit.
mokanaman thank you :)
one more thing, is the normal alcohol and isopropyl alcohol the same?
no, could be ethanol or mentholated alcohol and may have different effects on the paint.
mokanaman i see, thanks again
Is that 90% isopropyl alcohol?
Diggers is high end and would be in the 90% ball park.
mokanaman
Thanks! I believe that 70% would work, right?
worked well enough for me.
he's supposed to go standing on that???
Yep, this is why I love early 80's model kits.
GW acrylic paints have very high pigments, fyi.
+CronusandRhea ZeusandHera The old stuff from the 80's yes but I find the modern version usable personally. That and seem most have jumped on eather vallejo or army painter which also have a high pigment count.
when painting large surfaces,it's better to invest in a airbrush.Hand painting over large surfaces gives a lousey finish
+Dave G This method will give you a nice finish. Airbrush is the best but for now rattle can will also work as well.
Too bad tamiya dissolves tamiya when your doing layers.
Could you please explain your comment? Tamiya acrylic has a high resin content and once dried can with stand hobby strength enamel and lacquer solvent paints applied on top. You might be mistaken or am doing something unusual to create that sort of result.
www.tamiya.com/english/products/list/acrylic_1.htm
mokanaman I did the same misstake using tamiya to paint figures etc, Tamiya dissolves tamiya paint when brush painted, but are great for spraying. You will notice this if you put fresh paint on top of your colour palet and spin around with your paintbrush you will se the bottom of the palette in a few seconds.
cyrusfett
Ah that's the result of being applied on a non primed surface, softened with solvent then scraped off with far too much pressure. What occurs on your palette is not a good reflection on what happenes on your model. Mind you no paint is indestructible and can be striped or scratched off. I've been hand painting Tamiya for over 10 years and can assure you this method is safe for Tamiya to be hand painted on using Tamiya. But you did raise an interesting question as I've seen this happen in my pallet as well and never given it a second thought. The same thing happens with lacquer and primers as well.
The problem usually accures if you use a dark colour underneath, and or if your trying to paint light flesh or white. Tamiya white is almost impossible to hand paint while sprayed it covers in 2 passovers with the airbrush. I was doing fine too but was told Tamiya is not well suited for hand painting compared to Valejo or such. Its not untill I looked at old models I started to see the bleed thrugh. No scraping, fine natural haired brush.