***ALIGNMENT GRID*** Not covered in the video but in the download ZIP, there is a file for engraving an alignment grid and the instructions on how to do this
I modified my MP to have extra working area, the belt tensioners waste a lot of potential movement, you can flip them upside down and install longer belts. Mostly I n the x axis (nearly 50mm gained in left to right travel) and about 30mm front to back as well! This does require new mounts for the x limit switches and flipping the y limit switch actuators. If you search Masuter on printables, someone has designed the x axis limit switch extenders. I now have 17 7/8” in X travel and about 17 1/2” in Y travel. I plan to extend the Y axis to 48” soon with the control box mounted in the middle of the Y axis to keep the wiring length.
James, it would save newbies like me a lot of time if you pinned a note at the top of this file to check that the standard spoil board is installed in the correct front-to-back orientation.
To anyone following this. I didnt pay much attention to the mdf boards that come with the machine. Apparently they are NOT symmetrical. When i ran the hole job they were lined up in the x direction but off in the y about 1.125 inches. Make sure the front of the machine has the holes closest to the edge of the board.
Another fantastic Masuter Pro video. Thanks James! Also, thank you for the spoilboard files. I was just getting ready to create some for mine and you saved me the trouble.
I appreciate the files James. I did some mods to the saves though. Shallowed the cut depth to0.1 mm and increased speed to 600 mm/m with my 3/4" end cleaning bit. Appreciate the work you put into them.
Hi James, Love your totorials. My question is reference Makita, I have a Vonhaus palm router which fits like a glove into the larger mount should I follow your Makita instructions for the spoil board creation. Thanks Carl, Derbyshire UK
Just did this and it was 30mm off on the y-axis. You need to set it at 70mm from the edge with the current file it seems. Using the standard spindle that comes with it. Edit: upon further reading in the comments, make sure that the precut holes in the MDF that comes with the unit are correct, the MDF needs to placed into the unit so that the holes closer to the edge are in the front.
@@JamesDeanDesigns so far so good. Need to go a bit deeper than 1/4" Local place only had 1/2" so I am trying to figure out how to adjust the Gcode. Worst case I'll just measure the holes myself. But thanks for the video and the reply!
Hi James, Great Channel and really helpful for a complete novice like me. Quick question though please. The files for the spoil board holes amount to a total of 20 holes, when the offset I have with the Makita Router with the offset that reduces that down to 16 holes. Please enlighten me. Many Thanks Matt 🙂
Hi James. Excellent video series. I'm new to CNC and have the Mauster Pro. I'm trying to make the spoilboard, but when I run the gcode file to make the holes, i trip the back limit switch (Y+) when I run the check size option in OpenBuilds control. Not sure what i've done wrong.
James - I have the Masuter Pro with the extension in my hallway waiting to be set up - My question is, do you have a file for a spoil board for the extension? This is my first CNC engraver, and I want to make sure I don't destroy it first day out or ever. Thanks
would you do a review of the new Shapeoko 5 pro? I realize it's on the higher end of the benchtop/hobby machines but I would like your opinion of that machine.
Thanks for the videos. I have a problem when surfacing my spoilboard. The file you supplied shows a 800 mm/min rate; according toe my maths it should take 30 sec to do one line but it takes 2 min. Am I missunderstanding something or is there a problem with the offline controller I use. Thanks in advance for helping me.
Hi James, love the content. I have an issue with the masuter pro not cutting all the way through my material, I followed step by step, tried z-probing on the factory spoil board, the 3/16" spoilboard I added, and on top of the material. I am wondering if there is a specific height my spindle should be set at in the mount? My spindle's top surface is flush with the top of the mount, I noticed yours is raised about an inch or so above the mount, could this be the cause?
Hey man I’m sure you got this figured out. It there a way to adjust material size and bit size on after the work has started? I figured I ask you since I’m have similar trials. Thanks
Hello James I'm watching this video because I'm just about to put together my Masuda Pro CNC which I just purchased. My question is will easel control the CNC or is just for designing what do you suggest in the software to control CNC thank you
Thanks for all of the information that you supply to us new guys. I would like to make a spoil board out of 1/2" MDF (actual thickness = 0.509") What do I need to do to change the G-Code in your spoil board file? I also have upgraded to the Makita. Again, thanks
I am new to CNC and i have purchased the Masuter Pro. I want to make a spoil board, I have seen your files and downloaded them. My question is how do I add the surfacing bit into easel. I do not see any bit option that is specifically for a surfacing bit.
Hi James. Having a bit of an issue with your grid file for surfacing. I'm loading the spoilboard surface file in UGS and setting the spindle to zero on bottom left corner. Running the file and it starts fine and gets to the bottom right corner and hits the y axis stop. I put it back to zero and nudged the y axis forward and reset zero and ran it again. This time it did a full outside run and started another outside run again and then hit the y axis stop on the bottom right. I returned to zero and it's not the zero position, it's behind it by around 3mm and it has the y axis Micro switch on. Any ideas what I'm doing wrong?
Great video James! I have a YoraHome Mandril 3036 and this file exceeds my work area. I was hoping to edit this file to fit my machine but I only see GCode in the files. Is this just a series of rectangles??
James, I watched the video and downloaded the files, they wont go directly to Easle need to convert them to .scg, my question is this spoil board big enough for the 30 inches required for the Mauster PRO 4040 or am I off course?
I have tried multiple times and the CNC Masuter Pro stops after the first pass in the top left corner. I figured out the CNC is hitting the back limiter switch and stopping. I tried start further forward from from the bottom left corner and it still contacts the limiter switch and stop. Please help.
With the range of movement from home being only 377 x 377mm, how can you surface a 400 x 400 spoil board. I tried your files and they did not work as it hist the movement limits on the machine.
Agreed. I encountered the same issue using the Makita file version in UGS. I kept making tweaks to the setup settings, but got nowhere. I even turned off the end stops, but then the error message said that it exceeded my soft limits. At that point, there was was too much profanity flying and it was time to stop. I'd use OpenBuilds, but it won't communicate with the Masuter Pro because says it can't find valid firmware even though it's 1.1h. OpenBuilds just tells me to buy the X32 (it is on my wishlist😉). I avoid using Candle whenever possible. I could modify the gcode in UGS or Windows' text app by changing every instance of 400 to 377, but that's tedious and could create new issues f a noob like me misses something.
Yes, this process is essential for any CNC machine to get your bed perfectly flat. Some people don't bother but ultimately you will get better, more accurate results if you do
Hi James - thank you for the video - I have just received my Masuter Pro - I am following your instructions but have a simple question : what size timber did you use to stop the original bed bending and also how did you fix the timber to the underside of the original bed? - TIA
James, you dont bolt the spoildboard down? your design suggests to tape it down cause i cannot see mounting holes on the spoilboard, am i missing anything?
Yes in theory. Just offset everything by an additional 2mm when fixing the board down. Hopefully the holes will still align but obviously watch the first one and if it's not correct then re do your Zero according to how much the first hole is off if that makes sense
Couple of options. Sometimes forcing the allen key in with an elastic band over the end can help to just give it enough grip. You can try and force a bigger allen key into it. You can apply heat to the aluminium extrusion which should cause it to expand and loosen the bolt. You can also buy stud removers but this means drilling the bolt a bit
I'm having trouble importing a couole of the files to Easel. The grid file and tramming file imports. But the holes gives me an error message. Anyone else found this, and know what to do about it ?
Hi, Further to watching most of your videos and based on its footprint, (limited room) I am going to purchase a Masuter Pro, it will be used for DIY projects only, mostly text engraving and once I get the hang of it a small amount of carving. I have two questions, should I upgrade to a 300w spindle, and does the machine come with any basic software built in or do you have to purchase it, I ask this because I own an XTool Diode Laser which came with Xtool's own software, which I later upgraded to Lightburn
I wouldn't upgrad to the 300w spindle, I'd go for a router first. An 800w or 1.5kw spindle is also an option but a little more complicated to wire up. No software comes with it but there is enough free software out there to get started such as Easel for designing and then UGS for controlling
Hi, In previous videos for making a spoilboards you have cut two sheets of MDF, for the Masuter Pro you only cut one board, is there a technical reason you cannot cut two.
2 reasons, time saving and other machines had aluminium beds so obviously you don't want to cut all the way through, hence the flip method. However nothing stopping you doing 2 together
You can't unfortunately. You have two choices, you would have to create it yourself or you could potentially pin it down, run the holes once, flip it over making sure to keep it all in the same place and run the holes again this should then work
How do I change the width of the scan for the surfacing? I'm using a wider bit and the scan from your file, using a Makita router only using half of the bit. Thanks
Afternoon James, hope you're well man. In one of your vids you mentioned a Facebake group which is a must join for us novices. I have re-watched your vids and for the life of me can't find it. Can you tell me what it is? I've even created a Facebake profile after decades of avoiding! Also, I'm 100% new and going to go for FoxAlien Masuter Pro. I'm looking for a powerful enough spindle (300w?) and a laser strong enough to cut through 9mm pine (and - epoxy, plexi and to engrave metal). Thanks for your vids and all advice is welcome and much appreciated :)
here is a link to the group. To cut through 9mm pine easily you will need something like a 10w+ output laser. Diode lasers are not great for cutting, especially thicker material so just take that into account facebook.com/groups/715689485864421/
@@JamesDeanDesigns cheers, found the group 👍 I got the Masuter Pro 300w spindle package and a 20w laser so hopefully will be cutting in no time. P.S I've posted a question or two in a good few of your vids (sorry!) so cheers for the feedback and the vids themselves. You're a legend
James I know you are a fox ailen associate, but I would like to ask you about the sansmart 40 x40 maturse pro. It's very much like the fox alien but cheaper. I have been using a 3018 for a while and feel that I need to move up to a more capable machine. It's a dollar thing , but as I am retried I have to watch the bottom line. I want to thank you as you have been very helpful with your videos and your insite.
Hi Warren, I work with both Sainsmart and FoxAlien and they are both great companies. I think the machine you're referencing is the new Sainsmart 4040 Pro. This is essentially direct competition to the FoxAlien Masuter Pro but to my knowledge they are about the same price. I have the 4040 Pro but not built it yet so I can't really comment on it at the moment 😕
hi James can you point out the link for your tramming jig thx... got this cnc yesterday .. I ve found a issue ,, after homing... the 2 Y axis are skewed ,, about 2.5 mm on one side .. measure from the front plate with a caliper .. i can reposition the axis so they are parallel .. i ve tried to loosen the belt seem a bit too tight ,, the frame is square ,, but still useable after tweakin the Y axis .. every time I shut the cnc off ,, I need to do this .. takes 1 min but still .. i m not impressed by this .. I have 2 tronxy x5sa pro 3d printer .. that i need to do this ¨leveling¨ once a while àbut not every time I home the machine.. sorry my bad writing .. I live in Québec french Canada... thx you for your video .. i ve learned a lot from you .. new to cnc.. i ve tram the spindle using a 1inch surface bit .. it s not perfect but kinda worked ... has place for improuvement
I thought I had uploaded it already to thingiverse.com but apparently not so leave it with me and I'll see if I can find the original file. Mine is also slightly out although everything is square. I thought it may have been because it was a preproduction unit. I need to check if its actually the X axis gantry and not the frame
I really like your videos, but have a question on this one. Is there a reason you tram the spindle after bed flattening? I would think you tram first with a glass plate or something which you make parallel to your machine's X axis, then flatten the bed.
Placing a piece of glass down first would not make it parallel to the X axis, it would simply replicate any discrepancies already in the bed. For example if your whole bed slopes backwards and you place a piece of glass on it, then the glass will also slope backwards. Technically you should probably surface, then place the glass on, tram the spindle and resurface again but tramming before surfacing no matter what runs the risk of tramming so something which is not level
@@JamesDeanDesigns Sorry, I was not too clear I think. You put the glass/mirror on your wasteboard and level it (paper, screws, whatever in the corners) to the X axis gantry using a stationary dial indicator in the router collet getting the same reading in all 4 corners. Then figure out your tram adjustment with a jig like you have. After that you level the wastboard like you show.
@@johnpeters211 I suppose that would work, the way I'm looking at it though is you then need a dial indicator and a piece of floated glass to achieve the same results. But at the end of the day the main thing is getting everything level and trammed no matter which way you do it 👍
Hi James, thanks for the great video. I just ordered the Masuter Pro, I mainly want to use it for making home décor as well as engraving some cutting boards. Do you think with the Trimmer Router it could cut through harder would... lets say a guitar body :) Thanks
After the mdf board is surfaced I have noticed is the tape tends to come loose causing the board not to be level anymore, any thoughts on this? Thanks.
@@JamesDeanDesigns found it. But when I home the machine, set Z it wants to make the holes way off, please see pics. Using candle. Forgot, can't send pics this way. Thanks
I tried to run the UGS program for the spoilboard holes and part way through the very first hole i get an alarm and it appears to be hanging up on a line of code - it is nowhere near any limit switches and hasn't hit the actual bed yet, so I'm not sure what i could have done wrong. i also tried to open the gcode in Easel to view but that gave another error... Invalid G-code Line 40: G3X72.5000Y12.8875I5.4125J-0.0000F600.0 The file contains invalid G-code syntax. Any suggestion?
Hello James. I have a Fox Alien Masuter 4040 (not pro) - I've dowloaded the files and using USG I begin to cut the holes in the spoilboard. About 1/2 way through the first hole the machine stops and I get an error message. It says that a hard limit has been triggered. I've checked my limit switches and I'm not even close to anything that would trip them. Any idea what I've done??
First, I'm not sure these files work on the normal masuter, the hole alignment may be different. If the limit switch went off during a hole then chances are it was the Z limit. If it wasn't close to that then you may have loose connection
Hi@@JamesDeanDesigns, im having an issue with the Z (and X) limit switches getting triggered when I try and surface the MDF, as soon as I start the program, the spindle lifts up all the way and triggers the Z limit, any ideas? No idea why (I'm using a Makita router).
Exactly what Shaun said. Makita is 1.8kg where as 1.5kw spindle is double that. These are only nema 17 steppers driving this so heavier spindle increases the chance of missing steps or stalling
They include the bracket with the Masuter Pro, so it appears that it's an expected upgrade. I bought the 300w spindle myself, since I also have the 20w laser and swapping between the two tools is a lot easier than having to also replace/realign the bracket every time. I might get the Makita in the future, if I get into making thicker projects.
There should not be an issue. What I would say is make sure you have extracted the files out of the Zip folder and then try running it if not done so already
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***ALIGNMENT GRID***
Not covered in the video but in the download ZIP, there is a file for engraving an alignment grid and the instructions on how to do this
I modified my MP to have extra working area, the belt tensioners waste a lot of potential movement, you can flip them upside down and install longer belts. Mostly I n the x axis (nearly 50mm gained in left to right travel) and about 30mm front to back as well! This does require new mounts for the x limit switches and flipping the y limit switch actuators. If you search Masuter on printables, someone has designed the x axis limit switch extenders. I now have 17 7/8” in X travel and about 17 1/2” in Y travel. I plan to extend the Y axis to 48” soon with the control box mounted in the middle of the Y axis to keep the wiring length.
James, it would save newbies like me a lot of time if you pinned a note at the top of this file to check that the standard spoil board is installed in the correct front-to-back orientation.
Thank you for sharing this with us today from Henrico County Virginia
To anyone following this. I didnt pay much attention to the mdf boards that come with the machine. Apparently they are NOT symmetrical. When i ran the hole job they were lined up in the x direction but off in the y about 1.125 inches. Make sure the front of the machine has the holes closest to the edge of the board.
Ah! Wish I had read your post earlier - it would have saved me hours of dry runs all in the wrong place....... Thanks
Another fantastic Masuter Pro video. Thanks James!
Also, thank you for the spoilboard files. I was just getting ready to create some for mine and you saved me the trouble.
I appreciate the files James. I did some mods to the saves though. Shallowed the cut depth to0.1 mm and increased speed to 600 mm/m with my 3/4" end cleaning bit. Appreciate the work you put into them.
Thanks for a nice Masuter Pro video. Where can I finde the link for the 3d printed tramming jig?
Hi James, Love your totorials. My question is reference Makita, I have a Vonhaus palm router which fits like a glove into the larger mount should I follow your Makita instructions for the spoil board creation. Thanks Carl, Derbyshire UK
I only had 13mm ply. Which art of the code do I tweak to change the depth?
1" surfacing bit works just fine on the 4040 with a 60watt spindle.
Just did this and it was 30mm off on the y-axis. You need to set it at 70mm from the edge with the current file it seems. Using the standard spindle that comes with it. Edit: upon further reading in the comments, make sure that the precut holes in the MDF that comes with the unit are correct, the MDF needs to placed into the unit so that the holes closer to the edge are in the front.
Yes, that is correct. The machine needs to be built correctly for the files to work. Hope your got there with it 👍
@@JamesDeanDesigns so far so good. Need to go a bit deeper than 1/4" Local place only had 1/2" so I am trying to figure out how to adjust the Gcode. Worst case I'll just measure the holes myself. But thanks for the video and the reply!
@@JamesDeanDesigns I did not see anything in the instructions that indicated that there was a front and back to the standard spoilboard.
Hi James, Great Channel and really helpful for a complete novice like me. Quick question though please. The files for the spoil board holes amount to a total of 20 holes, when the offset I have with the Makita Router with the offset that reduces that down to 16 holes. Please enlighten me. Many Thanks Matt 🙂
Excellent video and thank you for taking the time to share the files :) Craig
Hi James. Excellent video series. I'm new to CNC and have the Mauster Pro. I'm trying to make the spoilboard, but when I run the gcode file to make the holes, i trip the back limit switch (Y+) when I run the check size option in OpenBuilds control. Not sure what i've done wrong.
James - I have the Masuter Pro with the extension in my hallway waiting to be set up - My question is, do you have a file for a spoil board for the extension? This is my first CNC engraver, and I want to make sure I don't destroy it first day out or ever. Thanks
would you do a review of the new Shapeoko 5 pro? I realize it's on the higher end of the benchtop/hobby machines but I would like your opinion of that machine.
Thanks for the videos. I have a problem when surfacing my spoilboard. The file you supplied shows a 800 mm/min rate; according toe my maths it should take 30 sec to do one line but it takes 2 min. Am I missunderstanding something or is there a problem with the offline controller I use. Thanks in
advance for helping me.
Hi James, love the content. I have an issue with the masuter pro not cutting all the way through my material, I followed step by step, tried z-probing on the factory spoil board, the 3/16" spoilboard I added, and on top of the material.
I am wondering if there is a specific height my spindle should be set at in the mount?
My spindle's top surface is flush with the top of the mount, I noticed yours is raised about an inch or so above the mount, could this be the cause?
Hey man I’m sure you got this figured out. It there a way to adjust material size and bit size on after the work has started? I figured I ask you since I’m have similar trials.
Thanks
Do you have a link to the 3d print file to make the tramming jig?
Hello James I'm watching this video because I'm just about to put together my Masuda Pro CNC which I just purchased. My question is will easel control the CNC or is just for designing what do you suggest in the software to control CNC thank you
Thanks for all of the information that you supply to us new guys.
I would like to make a spoil board out of 1/2" MDF (actual thickness = 0.509") What do I need to do to change the G-Code in your spoil board file? I also have upgraded to the Makita. Again, thanks
I am new to CNC and i have purchased the Masuter Pro. I want to make a spoil board, I have seen your files and downloaded them. My question is how do I add the surfacing bit into easel. I do not see any bit option that is specifically for a surfacing bit.
Can the size of the holes be changed to 19mm for dog holes?
Hi James. Having a bit of an issue with your grid file for surfacing. I'm loading the spoilboard surface file in UGS and setting the spindle to zero on bottom left corner. Running the file and it starts fine and gets to the bottom right corner and hits the y axis stop. I put it back to zero and nudged the y axis forward and reset zero and ran it again. This time it did a full outside run and started another outside run again and then hit the y axis stop on the bottom right. I returned to zero and it's not the zero position, it's behind it by around 3mm and it has the y axis Micro switch on. Any ideas what I'm doing wrong?
Just another one, the file I have makes the cutter go around the circumference of the board, yours starts in the middle
Great video!!! Thanks for sharing
Great video James! I have a YoraHome Mandril 3036 and this file exceeds my work area. I was hoping to edit this file to fit my machine but I only see GCode in the files. Is this just a series of rectangles??
James, I watched the video and downloaded the files, they wont go directly to Easle need to convert them to .scg, my question is this spoil board big enough for the 30 inches required for the Mauster PRO 4040 or am I off course?
Do these files work for the 3s aswell? Is it the same size of spoilboard for both?
Not sure. I'm about to to do the spoilboard for the 3s this week so I'll find out soon
My spoilboard is 8mm so the hole wont cut through, how can i change the gcode? Thanks
I have tried multiple times and the CNC Masuter Pro stops after the first pass in the top left corner. I figured out the CNC is hitting the back limiter switch and stopping. I tried start further forward from from the bottom left corner and it still contacts the limiter switch and stop. Please help.
With the range of movement from home being only 377 x 377mm, how can you surface a 400 x 400 spoil board. I tried your files and they did not work as it hist the movement limits on the machine.
Agreed. I encountered the same issue using the Makita file version in UGS. I kept making tweaks to the setup settings, but got nowhere. I even turned off the end stops, but then the error message said that it exceeded my soft limits. At that point, there was was too much profanity flying and it was time to stop. I'd use OpenBuilds, but it won't communicate with the Masuter Pro because says it can't find valid firmware even though it's 1.1h. OpenBuilds just tells me to buy the X32 (it is on my wishlist😉). I avoid using Candle whenever possible. I could modify the gcode in UGS or Windows' text app by changing every instance of 400 to 377, but that's tedious and could create new issues f a noob like me misses something.
I am new at this and have taken great care to ensure the bench my cnc sets on is very level. Is this procedure necessary if the workbench is level?
Yes, this process is essential for any CNC machine to get your bed perfectly flat. Some people don't bother but ultimately you will get better, more accurate results if you do
Hi James - thank you for the video - I have just received my Masuter Pro - I am following your instructions but have a simple question : what size timber did you use to stop the original bed bending and also how did you fix the timber to the underside of the original bed? - TIA
I just used some scrap plywood and glued it on.
Nice, bless you for these videos!
Using the Makita, what size bit for the holes? Great video Mr. Dean! Thank you for sharing the files. Huge time saver.
1/8th upcut end mill. You can get a 1/4 to 1/8 collet reducer for a few bucks of amazon
@@JamesDeanDesigns thank you!
James, you dont bolt the spoildboard down? your design suggests to tape it down cause i cannot see mounting holes on the spoilboard, am i missing anything?
That is correct. You essentially tape it glue it down. A spoilboard is designed to be cut into so you don't want anything metal in the way
Hi James, I have a dewalt router instead of the makita. Could I still use the makita file to surface my spoil board?
Yes in theory. Just offset everything by an additional 2mm when fixing the board down. Hopefully the holes will still align but obviously watch the first one and if it's not correct then re do your Zero according to how much the first hole is off if that makes sense
Thanks
I just ordered Masuter Pro with 300W spindle. Can I use same files as you use with 60W spindle? Thank you in advance!
Yes you can. The 300w can technically go quicker though
Does anyone know how to remove stripped screws? The screws at the end shown at 15:19 Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Couple of options. Sometimes forcing the allen key in with an elastic band over the end can help to just give it enough grip. You can try and force a bigger allen key into it. You can apply heat to the aluminium extrusion which should cause it to expand and loosen the bolt. You can also buy stud removers but this means drilling the bolt a bit
@@JamesDeanDesigns Thank you! I appreciate the reply.
How long should it take to surface the spoilboard?
Can't remember off the top of my head but I'm usually quite Conservative so probably about 30-40 mins or so using the standard spindle
Does Makita RT0700CX4/2 240V Router/Trimmer suitable with this machine?
I'm having trouble importing a couole of the files to Easel. The grid file and tramming file imports. But the holes gives me an error message. Anyone else found this, and know what to do about it ?
Hi, Further to watching most of your videos and based on its footprint, (limited room) I am going to purchase a Masuter Pro, it will be used for DIY projects only, mostly text engraving and once I get the hang of it a small amount of carving. I have two questions, should I upgrade to a 300w spindle, and does the machine come with any basic software built in or do you have to purchase it, I ask this because I own an XTool Diode Laser which came with Xtool's own software, which I later upgraded to Lightburn
I wouldn't upgrad to the 300w spindle, I'd go for a router first. An 800w or 1.5kw spindle is also an option but a little more complicated to wire up.
No software comes with it but there is enough free software out there to get started such as Easel for designing and then UGS for controlling
@@JamesDeanDesigns Many thanks for your help and advice.
Hi,
In previous videos for making a spoilboards you have cut two sheets of MDF, for the Masuter Pro you only cut one board, is there a technical reason you cannot cut two.
2 reasons, time saving and other machines had aluminium beds so obviously you don't want to cut all the way through, hence the flip method. However nothing stopping you doing 2 together
How can i adjust this for a 1/2 inch spoil board?
You can't unfortunately. You have two choices, you would have to create it yourself or you could potentially pin it down, run the holes once, flip it over making sure to keep it all in the same place and run the holes again this should then work
How do I change the width of the scan for the surfacing? I'm using a wider bit and the scan from your file, using a Makita router only using half of the bit. Thanks
You can't really adjust the gcode. Best thing to probably do is use Openbuilds Controller. This has an inbuilt surfacing feature
I tried to run you hole file but I get the message invalid gcode, please let me know what to do with this? Thank You
Afternoon James, hope you're well man.
In one of your vids you mentioned a Facebake group which is a must join for us novices. I have re-watched your vids and for the life of me can't find it. Can you tell me what it is? I've even created a Facebake profile after decades of avoiding!
Also, I'm 100% new and going to go for FoxAlien Masuter Pro. I'm looking for a powerful enough spindle (300w?) and a laser strong enough to cut through 9mm pine (and - epoxy, plexi and to engrave metal).
Thanks for your vids and all advice is welcome and much appreciated :)
here is a link to the group. To cut through 9mm pine easily you will need something like a 10w+ output laser. Diode lasers are not great for cutting, especially thicker material so just take that into account facebook.com/groups/715689485864421/
@@JamesDeanDesigns cheers, found the group 👍 I got the Masuter Pro 300w spindle package and a 20w laser so hopefully will be cutting in no time.
P.S
I've posted a question or two in a good few of your vids (sorry!) so cheers for the feedback and the vids themselves. You're a legend
James I know you are a fox ailen associate, but I would like to ask you about the sansmart 40 x40 maturse pro. It's very much like the fox alien but cheaper. I have been using a 3018 for a while and feel that I need to move up to a more capable machine. It's a dollar thing , but as I am retried I have to watch the bottom line. I want to thank you as you have been very helpful with your videos and your insite.
Hi Warren, I work with both Sainsmart and FoxAlien and they are both great companies. I think the machine you're referencing is the new Sainsmart 4040 Pro. This is essentially direct competition to the FoxAlien Masuter Pro but to my knowledge they are about the same price. I have the 4040 Pro but not built it yet so I can't really comment on it at the moment 😕
@@JamesDeanDesigns james thank you for you input, I want to start selling some of my work and need a better machine in order to base my busness on
hi James can you point out the link for your tramming jig thx... got this cnc yesterday .. I ve found a issue ,, after homing... the 2 Y axis are skewed ,, about 2.5 mm on one side .. measure from the front plate with a caliper .. i can reposition the axis so they are parallel .. i ve tried to loosen the belt seem a bit too tight ,, the frame is square ,, but still useable after tweakin the Y axis .. every time I shut the cnc off ,, I need to do this .. takes 1 min but still .. i m not impressed by this .. I have 2 tronxy x5sa pro 3d printer .. that i need to do this ¨leveling¨ once a while àbut not every time I home the machine.. sorry my bad writing .. I live in Québec french Canada... thx you for your video .. i ve learned a lot from you .. new to cnc.. i ve tram the spindle using a 1inch surface bit .. it s not perfect but kinda worked ... has place for improuvement
I thought I had uploaded it already to thingiverse.com but apparently not so leave it with me and I'll see if I can find the original file.
Mine is also slightly out although everything is square. I thought it may have been because it was a preproduction unit. I need to check if its actually the X axis gantry and not the frame
I really like your videos, but have a question on this one. Is there a reason you tram the spindle after bed flattening? I would think you tram first with a glass plate or something which you make parallel to your machine's X axis, then flatten the bed.
Placing a piece of glass down first would not make it parallel to the X axis, it would simply replicate any discrepancies already in the bed. For example if your whole bed slopes backwards and you place a piece of glass on it, then the glass will also slope backwards. Technically you should probably surface, then place the glass on, tram the spindle and resurface again but tramming before surfacing no matter what runs the risk of tramming so something which is not level
@@JamesDeanDesigns Sorry, I was not too clear I think. You put the glass/mirror on your wasteboard and level it (paper, screws, whatever in the corners) to the X axis gantry using a stationary dial indicator in the router collet getting the same reading in all 4 corners. Then figure out your tram adjustment with a jig like you have. After that you level the wastboard like you show.
@@johnpeters211 I suppose that would work, the way I'm looking at it though is you then need a dial indicator and a piece of floated glass to achieve the same results. But at the end of the day the main thing is getting everything level and trammed no matter which way you do it 👍
Hi James, thanks for the great video. I just ordered the Masuter Pro, I mainly want to use it for making home décor as well as engraving some cutting boards. Do you think with the Trimmer Router it could cut through harder would... lets say a guitar body :) Thanks
My full review should hopefully be out this weekend but lets just say I've been machining things A LOT harder than that using the router :)
@@JamesDeanDesigns That is excellent news, I think it will arrive in 3-5 days. I better start watching all your videos asap :D
@@JamesDeanDesigns ohh same person just my personal account :)
After the mdf board is surfaced I have noticed is the tape tends to come loose causing the board not to be level anymore, any thoughts on this? Thanks.
If its decent tape, you've put enough on and the MDF is clean then it should hold good.
@@JamesDeanDesigns ok
hi i have FoxAlien Masuter Pro and im new in cnc how i add in the use machine configuration post in the fusion 360
I am really sorry but I do not use fusion in this way so I can't advise.
Vwey informative
Thank you 👍
@@JamesDeanDesigns Do you know if there is a wheel spacing difference for the v-slot vs t-slot?
Did you remove the file for cutting the holes in the spoil board?
No, files link is still there in the description area
@@JamesDeanDesigns found it. But when I home the machine, set Z it wants to make the holes way off, please see pics. Using candle. Forgot, can't send pics this way. Thanks
I tried to run the UGS program for the spoilboard holes and part way through the very first hole i get an alarm and it appears to be hanging up on a line of code - it is nowhere near any limit switches and hasn't hit the actual bed yet, so I'm not sure what i could have done wrong. i also tried to open the gcode in Easel to view but that gave another error... Invalid G-code
Line 40: G3X72.5000Y12.8875I5.4125J-0.0000F600.0
The file contains invalid G-code syntax.
Any suggestion?
Did you ever find a solution to this? I'm currently having the same problem with the hole code hanging up while running in UGS.
I made a new file for mine as a learning opportunity.
Hello James. I have a Fox Alien Masuter 4040 (not pro) - I've dowloaded the files and using USG I begin to cut the holes in the spoilboard. About 1/2 way through the first hole the machine stops and I get an error message. It says that a hard limit has been triggered. I've checked my limit switches and I'm not even close to anything that would trip them. Any idea what I've done??
First, I'm not sure these files work on the normal masuter, the hole alignment may be different. If the limit switch went off during a hole then chances are it was the Z limit. If it wasn't close to that then you may have loose connection
Hi@@JamesDeanDesigns, im having an issue with the Z (and X) limit switches getting triggered when I try and surface the MDF, as soon as I start the program, the spindle lifts up all the way and triggers the Z limit, any ideas? No idea why (I'm using a Makita router).
@@larrylenderson2147 perhaps try raising the makita router up in the holder so the entire Z carriage starts lower down
Thanks for the super fast reply, Ill give that a go @@JamesDeanDesigns
Hi. I tried sending a message on your website but the send button wouldn't work
There is a glitch with it at the moment. If you're on facebook or Instagram then I would suggest finding me on there and we can chat.
Why would you do a spindle upgrade on this machine using the Makita or dewalt. Surely going for a 1500w spindle makes more sense?
Probably can't handle the extra weight without causing deflection.
Exactly what Shaun said. Makita is 1.8kg where as 1.5kw spindle is double that. These are only nema 17 steppers driving this so heavier spindle increases the chance of missing steps or stalling
They include the bracket with the Masuter Pro, so it appears that it's an expected upgrade. I bought the 300w spindle myself, since I also have the 20w laser and swapping between the two tools is a lot easier than having to also replace/realign the bracket every time.
I might get the Makita in the future, if I get into making thicker projects.
I tried to run you hole file but I get the message invalid gcode, please let me know what to do with this? Thank You
There should not be an issue. What I would say is make sure you have extracted the files out of the Zip folder and then try running it if not done so already
@@JamesDeanDesigns I unzipped the hole file twice, same problem
@@mikeledee8786 what software are you using to run the file?
@@JamesDeanDesigns the file that makes the holes on the spoil board mauster pro. Thanks
@@mikeledee8786 yes, that file needs to be ran with a piece if software like UGS or Candle as I do in the video. What software are you using?