Thanks for the overview. I'm primarily looking for a laser engraver/cutter but then saw this and thought I could use it for both. With this design running the X and Y axis using belts instead of lead or ball screws does it move fast enough for good laser work? Or would I be better off buying 2 separate machines specific to the task? (just doing hobby work nothing heavy duty) Oh, could you also please provide a link to the upgraded wheels mentioned for the Y axis. Cheers, Greg
I appreciate the effort to speak both imperial and metric, since there is no easy conversion; and I try to use both depending on what I am building. Point being that describing with both is very helpful. Nice presentation over all.
@@Komet3ify you can use any pilot arc cutter or you can modify a high frequency start one. I’ll be doing an episode on my build which includes the torch height control and getting around the interference issues.
@@joshuaeagleton3469 too busy cutting hehe I’ve added a torch height controller to it too. Servo driven that moves the torch. Can even cut curved surfaces like motorbike fenders and corrugated metal. So cool. I will be posting more. THere’s a brief short of it on my YT
Wonderful machine. Just purchased a Basic model, will put together soon, will looks for these upgrades, thank you for sharing this with us today Stay safe and healthy from Henrico County Virginia
Got this and have added a Mikita router and made a dust shoe from scrap piece and a draft excluder. Tonight I made a set of dust guards from craft foam, but realised my spoil board isn’t centred so it’s a little tight on the right. Will tweak tomorrow. Just wish I had got a laser for it as well.
James, Just a heads up on this as im watching - the Auto generated sub titles 2:13 are translating your pronunciation of Mashuter to "Mass Shooter" - just giving you a heads up as i don't want them de-funding your page due to their own incompetence flagging it as some ridiculous out of context comment and then not checking it properly............i've seen it happening to many a youtuber recently. Keep up the amazing work!
Thank you for the info. Been in the market looking for a unit that can be used both as CNC and laser and this definitely seems to be the piece I will be buying.
Hello. Thanks for the video. I will check the links you provided. I have a question: I already have strong Makita in hand, which can handle steel well. I deal with stainless steel, upto 10mm deep (only steel, not wood, not aluminum). I am now looking for the rest of the cnc (I only have Makita router in hand). High precision is a must. What do you advise me?
Hi James! Thanks for your review on the FoxAlien Masuter Pro. I just ordered one of these machines with the extension kit and also the laser engraving/cutting head. Seems to be a very nice machine for a hobbyist workshop.
Great video James. And your other videos too, that help me a lot for my first try in CNC world with my new Masuter Pro. I just get a Makita router, but I have problem to find small collets. I need at least 1/8" collet, but I've heard that ER collet are not compatible with Makita. Any tips to help me ? And so, what bits did you use to work on aluminium ?
Is the Makita RT0701C 6.5 Amp 1-1/4 HP Corded Fixed Base Variable Speed Compact Router with Quick-Release the router you have there? Did you say that the diameter of the body of the Makita router is 65mm? Do you just plug in in a drop cord to power it while your'e using it in the FoxAlien Masuter Pro CNC? Thanks man
One of the issues I had with the Masuter is the uneven bed when using clamps. Because the bed is split in half with no support underneath you can easily put more pressure on one end tilting your piece at an angle. I thought that was a serious flaw in design.
Can't say I've really experienced that but I think that's one major benefit of adding a spoilboard and reinforcing the underneath, it holds it altogether better.
Do you have any how to videos with the Masuter Pro and the offline controller? I enjoy your videos but cannot find an easy how to video with the offline controller.
First of all very good review and thank you. But this machine is like an insult to those who purchased the older version not so long ago. Older version was not a "baby" version it was simply the first iteration of this exact machine which was still sold for around $550 (which is slightly cheaper but not too far from the new versions price) and shared the geometry, electronics, cutting size etc. Most of us purchased the previous model thinking that it can cut wood at a reasonable speed but it doesn't because it flexes so much in all directions. The previous versions problems were mainly Acrylic plates instead of aluminum ones where the beams and steppers are connected and the notoriously weak z axis. You slightly touch z axis and it flexes forward. They seem to address all of these and the fixes are really not costly. $150-200 for all of these upgrades is nothing if they are going to make the machine capable of what it was advertised of doing. For example, with the older version, from 3.5mm plywood I just cut the same 30mmx25mm rectangle side by side. One cut climb mode the other conventional with 0.4mm step down, 1000mm/min speed settings. The climb mode came nice measured 24.95x29.97 but the conventional one (which puts a bit more stress) came out 24.4x29.3. Horrible almost 1mm play and this is a very easy simple cut. Honestly, this is more like being used like a lab rat with your money. Accepting that a machine costed around $500 is now paper weight in less than a year and the only way to upgrade is to get rid of it and buy the newer version for another $650 because the new version is now fixed the issues and can do the things it claims to do it. I think Foxalien is a good company and they are trying to come up with good machines. But what they offer after selling the machine is also important. Since the machine fundamentally didn't change they should give the users of the old version a reasonable way to upgrade their machines to this version. This means making the z axis assembly,, aluminum side plates available. And James, know that there are lot's of people like me who make their purchase decisions by watching your content. It may be a good approach to set the expectations right so maybe being a bit more critical can be good for us buyers. Best
Hi James, do you have experience with the 300 Watt spindle from foxalien on the masuter pro? Highly recommended and worth its money or stay with the original 775?
You me narrowed down to this or the Sainsmart 4030 that you have. I do like that you can make the bed size bigger. Whats your opinion between the 4030 and this masuter?
James, I see the wheel covers on the machine in your intro. Where can I get them? ........After watching your videos I bought a Masuter Pro in April of this year and really like it. John Reed
Hello there. Brilliant video, I'm looking to get a cnc machine as a total beginner to this kind of stuff. I have a question... You mentioned a laser at some point in the video. Are you able to add a laser to this machine and effectively turn it into a laser etcher/cutter ? As I was looking to buy both, but if one does the job of 2, then that's even better. Thank you in advance for any help 😁
I would say having 2 separate machines is still better for various reasons but yes you can install a diode laser on this machine. FoxAlien did used to sell them as a kit with the laser as well but other brands will also work. If not done so already just looking into diode lasers so you have realistic expectations
@JamesDeanDesigns thank you so much for the reply. I've done a bit of reading into the diode lasers, I think due to budget, it would be my starting point. So in theory, I can't see any point in me having both machines as yet. Unless you can point out any real negatives I may be missing. They still do the kit, I've just looked, and it comes with a 20w laser, which I believe is a good one to have. I would be doing the Makita rotor upgrade from the start. Thank you again for the reply, it's much appreciated 😊
The 300w spindle is OK, but truthfully given given price differences, the power differences, I would always pick the Makita (or other brand) over the 300w spindle
I read someone on Reddit encountered an issue of the machine slipping while moving along an access which threw of its timing. Have you encountered this?
Does this machine metal better than the Genmitsu 4040 Pro? You do a steel test in this one but not the other and you do .5mm at 500mm a minute but the other one you do .3-.4 at 1000mm a minute. Were the same bits used? Could the other not do steel or was it just not tested? I ask because in your vs video you say the Genmitsu has better steppers so is stronger. Is this not the case due to the frame? How would the Genmitsu do in depth in comparison if they were both going at 500mm/minute? Looking to buy a cnc to make some tesla turbines. Trying to get a cheap one so these two are great options. Atm thinking about the genmitsu but I want to be safe rather than sorry. Thanks a ton!
It just wasn't tested. Whilst both machines can do metal, and mainly soft metals at that, the reality is they are not primarily designed for metal. So if you're just doing a bit here and there it might be ok but if you're looking for a machine to mainly do metal then something like the 3030 Pro max I reviewed would be a better choice
@@JamesDeanDesigns I’ll give it a look. The metal I’m looking to machine is maybe +-.2 mm thick each anyway so I don’t think I’d put too much stress on it but I’ll definitely give the 3030 pro max a look. Thanks for the response!
Nice review ! So we have Masuter pro, Vasto and Prover 4030 (Saintsmart). Which one is the best for you ? Speking price and bed size the Masuter pro is very well placed vs the Prover 4030 but the sainsmart look more robust isn't it ?
For me the Vatso is top, it's a really high spec machine. Then the ProverXL 4030, and then the Masuter Pro but that's also reflected in their prices. They all have their plus points, for example the ProverXL can be extended but at the moment the other two can't ( although I think extensions are coming)
Hello and Thank you for your informative review, I ordered my new Foxalien Masuter pro on 27th December it arrived next day, its a solid machine and with all the reductions found on line you can buy this for under £480 now. however I have been using laser for two years and found my designs can be used if re saved to a g file, do you agree? I am still trying to get to grips with the machine, still not cut anything and would like to learn how to place the job for cutting, bobs cnc basic, inskape or lightburn all seam to design ok, but what is best for a sender UGS? how do I set the position for cutting? any help appreciated.
First of all, I'd like to say your presentations are awesome. I learned to use the CNC3-3018Pro with them. I just bought the Masuter Pro machine, and I am having some serious issues in that the machine is not cutting to the correct depth settings. It navigates to the correct positions but cuts too deep and inconsistently, meaning different depths. I am using Easel software and ugc sender. I have deleted and reinstalled the machine in Easel but the issues remain the same. The choices given are Fox Alien but they don’t offer Pro, so I chose other and configured accordingly. I also attempted with the 4040 model with the same results. What could be wrong?
Just ordered the machine using your link and was cheaper than amazon. I will install a makita and using for woodworking, hardwood and soft wood plus acrylic, any suggestions which bits I should buy?
Thank you 👍 if you haven't done so already, check out my guide on bits. You can use different bits on different materials so it's about the finish you're trying to achieve on each job but this video covers all the basic bits th-cam.com/video/obwwoEAbBjc/w-d-xo.html
Hi, I am having problems with my FoxAlien Masuter Pro skipping when roughing large areas which them ruins my design and I have to start again so was wondering (after watching this video) if part of the problem might be the wheels as I have upgraded to the Makita Router, I have found your video on how to change them and ordered a set from your link but could some of the reason be the the tracks get covered in dust and chippings making the smooth running not so smooth (even if I do sit with Henry running constantly trying to hoover up as it is running but of course staying out of the routers way) so could you let me know where I could buy a set of dust shoes from? I see you have sent people to your 3D template on Thingiverse but I don't have a 3D machine so PLEASE is there anywhere to purchase them from?
The Vasto is in another league, but equally its 3 times the cost. If you drop a 1.5kw spindle in the Vasto it's goes through steel like butter. Check out TechyDIY review of it. Its a brilliant review of the Vasto
I want to use the Z probe with Easel Pro. If I enter the thickness of the plate into the Machine Settings in Easel, does it then generate code into the .nc file that I send to the machine? I'm sending the .nc files through the offline controller, not using Candle or other sending software.
Thanks James im still busy setting it up but it so hot in europe at the moment that im leaving it for now... but i have the new wheels come in and the router from makita 1/4 1/8 bit and bits so im ready when i set it up thanks for all your messages in the FB group and helping me get started. do you have that tool for the router to check if its straight in the socket that orange 3d printed part do you have the stl on your patreon? thanks for the video!
really interested in these machine , Which laser unit do you recommend for this machine as i have just learnt on a basic machine and now I feel it's time to upgrade to a much better machine ( currently using " light burn on apple Mac ) as this is my primary use to start with. through one day i do plan to have a go a router work as well . i'm quite experienced now with laser and how it all works and I understand . I watched and learnt a lot of my skills from your TH-cam channel and thank you very much and trust your judgement . I would like a strong laser, high powered instead of the 20w which was alright, but I would like to go to the next level. any additional information for me would be really helpful. Thank you very much ....
Hi James, I have learned a lot from your videos. What all would I need to upgrade the Masuter Pro to nema 23 stepper motors. I'm assuming I would need a new control board and power supply.
Yes, you'll obviously need nema 23 motors, a control board that can supply enough power and a way to mount the stepper motors as the holes are in different positions
Is the 300w spindle able to mill aluminum? I would assume so, but it probably requires shallower passes and slower feed rates? Let me know. I am considering the package with the 300 spindle and the laser.
what for an app are you using for measuring the DB form the machine in this video? very awesome presentation.I am thinking of getting a cnc machine or a CO2 laser and fiber laser.I just don't know what can be done by a laser and what can be done by a cnc machine?
Hey James, really love your videos. They have been helping a ton with getting started with my Masuter pro. What did you use to attach the supports on the bottom of the bed?
Hello James Dean, I just purchased a masuter pro and was wondering how and where I can speed up my machine. It's running very slow! I'm using the makita router with it.
It can but I would say fine detail metal engraving is not its strong point. However check what your lighters are as my zippos are aluminium. I always used to think they were stainless
The delivery guy just dropped off my new Masuter Pro. I cant wait to get this thing up and running. A quick question, James. Where can I find the files for your 3d printed dust shoes as well as the tramming jig? I think both of those would be a great benefit. Thanks
i saw in the back you have there an enclosure.i think there is a cnc machine.really awesome built.would it be possible to get a plan from this maybe?I am planning on getting a cnc machine or co2 laser for building 3d models and plans and sell this online
Hi, I hope you can help me,I recently bought a 3018 engraver, everything worked great at first following your brilliant videos but now when using Lightburn I get this error message when trying to cut a file :- (Starting stream Layer C00 error:3 Grbl '$' system command was not recognized or supported. On or near line 0: Job halted Stream completed in 0:00) It frames OK and It works OK in GBRL. Thanks Ken
Hi James I really enjoy your videos they have really helped a beginner like me. I just started and used easel and really enjoyed not that my usage time is up it is no longer free and they are asking for a $200 fee, do you know of any other platform that is free that can replace easel?
I want to use this as a pen plotter. But to draw on 3d objects that has barying heights.(max height wpuld of course have to be less than the extrusion lowest point.)and the drill parts removed and replaced with a pen holder. Does this cnc manchine have the capability to control the z axis at varying heights and reach those different heights quickly while it is on...instead of just drill bit down , drill bit up
James, I absolutely love you videos and knowledge of CNC machines. I’m overwhelmed with the choices. I’m on a budget around $1000 US, I want to be able to carve into graphite molds for pouring metals for myself not on a big scale. Given that budget which CNC would you recommend? And what bits. Thank you !!! Merry Christmas 🎄🎁
Difficult one for me to answer as I haven't actually cut graphite. I'd probably look at the ProverXL 4030 from Sainsmart. It comes with a 300w spindle but you can pick up makita clone routers for under $50 that should cut the graphite pretty well. shrsl.com/2ltp2
It depends on how long or deep you want to go. You’ll be limited by the height of your z-axis and the cutting length of your bit. You’ll also need to consider how you’ll clamp the piece. IMO, you’d only be able to do 1 to 2 inches. You could do several inches on a lathe. I’ve carved about 1” into Aluminum with a 4030 and an Amana aluminum bit. I made a wood jig to hold the piece, a circle with a lengthwise slot that I could clamp tight.
Hello James great videos I'm definitely planning on getting the pro but my question is as far as doing tiling.Can the control box be removed for wider stock .
Guessing you didn't watch all the way to the end of the video 😆 Yes, you can either remove one screw and pivot it out the way or remove both screws and take it off completely
I asked that before I watched the video and then when I watched the video I realize why did I send that right away LOL thank you for your response love you videos
Hi James, first of all, thanks for the Masuter Pro review. I have little knowledge of CNC Router, but when I see CNC machines driven with belts instead of Ball Screws, I get a little "backward"; this, because of the precision and robustness. But you, who must be very experienced in CNC Router, what do you say about this Router Masuter Pro, since it uses belts for its traction? I mean, can she carve wood with ease, using Spindle (for a small business)? Secondly, is it possible to replace these rubber wheels that hold the axles with metal wheels, as you have in other laser machines? Finally, how much laser power can this machine support/supply? Thank you very much
Generally speaking, ball screw drive is better, but also more expensive which is why you rarely find them on budget machines. Belts are usually reinforced with steel wire which makes them stronger than they used to be so still capable of doing the job. Even if you could, you wouldn't want to replace the wheels with metal ones. There needs to be an element of friction to help keep it steady and the rubber wheels give that little bit of cushion to allow this. Hope that helps
@@JamesDeanDesigns Yes it helped, thank you very much. It's just that I'm a bit of a perfectionist and I prefer something more professional but, as you said, that comes at a higher cost.
James, I've been considering this machine as an entry into CNC's but I've seen some reports of issues with the v-wheels getting flat sports that appear to be unremovable and even replacing them doesn't help. Given that I'd be pushing the budget with this, is it worth getting? Should I save more for something better? I\d want to be using a Makita as the spindle. Primary materials would be hardwood / MR-MDF
The issue is the wheels are pretty tight on arrival so they essentially arrive with flat spots, not ideal but to be honest, most preassembled machines with wheels like these often arrive with flat spots. I changed mine out with a new set from amazon, fairly cheap about £12 I think, and it's been fine since
@@JamesDeanDesigns Hello from France, just because of your great video, I just bought one :-) Do you mind to share the link for the wheels ? So happy to start with it ! I am confortable with 3 D printer and fusion 360. Do you think it ll be a big deal to use this cnc ? Have a great day. Laurent
Hi James, based on your review I recently purchased this machine. I'm new to CNC and have found your channel to be really helpful. Unfortunately, I'm having a lot of issues cutting successfully on my Masuter Pro. I'm trying to make some templates out of 12mm MDF and every time, the cutting starts OK but about half way through the machine just goes off track, predominately on the Y axis. I've adjusted to feed down to 800mm/min, plunge to 200mm/min with a 1mm depth of cut. I started with a 1/8 compression bit but have also tried with a 1/4 spiral upcut bit and yet I'm still not able to finish the job without it going off track. I noticed whilst the machine is homing that applying a very light grip on the Y axis jog wheel will stall the motor, is this normal? Any pointers to help would be really appreciated. Thanks
Do you know what would cause this condition? I carved a US Flag, when it was done, no blade change, I decided to let it carve a second time to hopefully get rid of some of the rough spots, when I carved the second time the carving was not in the same place, meaning a little off so my project was ruined, what would cause this? Thanks in advance.
At some point it sounds like it may have missed steps. This literally could have been on the very last journey back to the start position or at any other time during the job. It may have been one step here and there meaning you may not have seen it on the carving but ultimately they accumulate. Missing steps can be caused by belts or wheels too tight. Sometimes running at to high a speed as well
Order the Masuter Pro bit.ly/3P0sg3n
Thanks for the overview. I'm primarily looking for a laser engraver/cutter but then saw this and thought I could use it for both. With this design running the X and Y axis using belts instead of lead or ball screws does it move fast enough for good laser work? Or would I be better off buying 2 separate machines specific to the task? (just doing hobby work nothing heavy duty) Oh, could you also please provide a link to the upgraded wheels mentioned for the Y axis.
Cheers,
Greg
I believe this reply was for my question. Thank you!
What kind of software do you recommend for me because I’m new to this machine
I appreciate the effort to speak both imperial and metric, since there is no easy conversion; and I try to use both depending on what I am building. Point being that describing with both is very helpful. Nice presentation over all.
Hi James. What bit do you recommend for aluminum cutting?
Added a plasma cutter to mine and cutting metal is no longer any issue! Most fun ever.
What plasma cutter did you use? I want one myself
@@Komet3ify you can use any pilot arc cutter or you can modify a high frequency start one. I’ll be doing an episode on my build which includes the torch height control and getting around the interference issues.
Did you make that video yet? In desperate need of a solution 😅
@@joshuaeagleton3469 too busy cutting hehe I’ve added a torch height controller to it too. Servo driven that moves the torch. Can even cut curved surfaces like motorbike fenders and corrugated metal. So cool. I will be posting more. THere’s a brief short of it on my YT
Which bits were you using to machine the Stainless steel and Aluminum?
Thank you for sharing, James!!! The video is really impressive!!!
Hello, Is it possible to mill PCB with it?
Wonderful machine. Just purchased a Basic model, will put together soon, will looks for these upgrades, thank you for sharing this with us today Stay safe and healthy from Henrico County Virginia
you still using it ?
Got this and have added a Mikita router and made a dust shoe from scrap piece and a draft excluder. Tonight I made a set of dust guards from craft foam, but realised my spoil board isn’t centred so it’s a little tight on the right. Will tweak tomorrow. Just wish I had got a laser for it as well.
Just saw your post on the FoxAlien group. If it works then thats all that counts 😆
Was the makita router compatible with the stock spindle mount?
Do you still like it? Why did you choose this one over the 4040-XE?
Lol I am printing the one with the logo. I saw the thingy post. You design. I will give it props.
James, Just a heads up on this as im watching - the Auto generated sub titles 2:13 are translating your pronunciation of Mashuter to "Mass Shooter" - just giving you a heads up as i don't want them de-funding your page due to their own incompetence flagging it as some ridiculous out of context comment and then not checking it properly............i've seen it happening to many a youtuber recently.
Keep up the amazing work!
I uploaded my own subtitles for this and thought I'd picked up on all the mass shooter mistakes 🙈
I'll go and edit it now, thank you 👍
Thank you for the info. Been in the market looking for a unit that can be used both as CNC and laser and this definitely seems to be the piece I will be buying.
Did you had to buy an adapter for the makita?
Edit: never mind I saw you installing the adapter
Hello. Thanks for the video. I will check the links you provided.
I have a question:
I already have strong Makita in hand, which can handle steel well. I deal with stainless steel, upto 10mm deep (only steel, not wood, not aluminum). I am now looking for the rest of the cnc (I only have Makita router in hand). High precision is a must. What do you advise me?
What would you buy Masuter Pro with Mikita router or the 4040-XE?
Love our channel I’m leaning a lot.
Hi James!
Thanks for your review on the FoxAlien Masuter Pro.
I just ordered one of these machines with the extension kit and also the laser engraving/cutting head.
Seems to be a very nice machine for a hobbyist workshop.
That's a great combination with the laser. Makes it very versatile 👍
Which should I buy, FoxAlien Mauster Pro or SainSmart Genmitsu PROVerXL? This will be my first CNC. Thanks
Did you make a choice? I’ve got the same choice to make.
@@thefinchworkshop Genmitsu only because there is more information, upgrades, and support. Plus, I like having lead screws vs bands driving the axis.
Great review love the tip at the end about moving the control box.
Can’t wait to see the next video
Thank you keep up the great work you do
Great video James. And your other videos too, that help me a lot for my first try in CNC world with my new Masuter Pro.
I just get a Makita router, but I have problem to find small collets. I need at least 1/8" collet, but I've heard that ER collet are not compatible with Makita. Any tips to help me ? And so, what bits did you use to work on aluminium ?
Will the stock spindle be able to engrave cutting boards? (Maple, walnuts, cherry)
Was there a link somewhere for the wheels that you replace on the Masuter Pro when adding the Makita Router?
I think I'm in love with a dolphin. What should I do?
Thank yu for your excellent indepth review. I finally found what I was looking for thanks to you.
Is the Makita RT0701C 6.5 Amp 1-1/4 HP Corded Fixed Base Variable Speed Compact Router with Quick-Release the router you have there? Did you say that the diameter of the body of the Makita router is 65mm? Do you just plug in in a drop cord to power it while your'e using it in the FoxAlien Masuter Pro CNC? Thanks man
One of the issues I had with the Masuter is the uneven bed when using clamps. Because the bed is split in half with no support underneath you can easily put more pressure on one end tilting your piece at an angle. I thought that was a serious flaw in design.
Can't say I've really experienced that but I think that's one major benefit of adding a spoilboard and reinforcing the underneath, it holds it altogether better.
Hey James, how does this measure up to the Sainsmart 3020 Pro V2?
Found the channel researching small CNC, heard the Midlands accent, already confident I've found someone who knows his stuff. Great video, subscribed.
🤣 yeh it's fairly distinct accent. Thank you for subscribing 👍
Can you cut 18 gauge aluminum with this?
Do you have any how to videos with the Masuter Pro and the offline controller? I enjoy your videos but cannot find an easy how to video with the offline controller.
Can you move the control box to allow a long piece to be slid through and worked on in 400mm sections?
what software do you use for your design?
First of all very good review and thank you. But this machine is like an insult to those who purchased the older version not so long ago. Older version was not a "baby" version it was simply the first iteration of this exact machine which was still sold for around $550 (which is slightly cheaper but not too far from the new versions price) and shared the geometry, electronics, cutting size etc. Most of us purchased the previous model thinking that it can cut wood at a reasonable speed but it doesn't because it flexes so much in all directions.
The previous versions problems were mainly Acrylic plates instead of aluminum ones where the beams and steppers are connected and the notoriously weak z axis. You slightly touch z axis and it flexes forward. They seem to address all of these and the fixes are really not costly. $150-200 for all of these upgrades is nothing if they are going to make the machine capable of what it was advertised of doing.
For example, with the older version, from 3.5mm plywood I just cut the same 30mmx25mm rectangle side by side. One cut climb mode the other conventional with 0.4mm step down, 1000mm/min speed settings. The climb mode came nice measured 24.95x29.97 but the conventional one (which puts a bit more stress) came out 24.4x29.3. Horrible almost 1mm play and this is a very easy simple cut.
Honestly, this is more like being used like a lab rat with your money. Accepting that a machine costed around $500 is now paper weight in less than a year and the only way to upgrade is to get rid of it and buy the newer version for another $650 because the new version is now fixed the issues and can do the things it claims to do it.
I think Foxalien is a good company and they are trying to come up with good machines. But what they offer after selling the machine is also important.
Since the machine fundamentally didn't change they should give the users of the old version a reasonable way to upgrade their machines to this version. This means making the z axis assembly,, aluminum side plates available.
And James, know that there are lot's of people like me who make their purchase decisions by watching your content. It may be a good approach to set the expectations right so maybe being a bit more critical can be good for us buyers.
Best
Can I make it bigger maybe 1500mm, only one axle
What wheels did you buy for the y axis?
Hi James, do you have experience with the 300 Watt spindle from foxalien on the masuter pro? Highly recommended and worth its money or stay with the original 775?
You me narrowed down to this or the Sainsmart 4030 that you have. I do like that you can make the bed size bigger. Whats your opinion between the 4030 and this masuter?
James, I see the wheel covers on the machine in your intro. Where can I get them? ........After watching your videos I bought a Masuter Pro in April of this year and really like it. John Reed
They can be found here, 2 version with or without a logo
www.thingiverse.com/thing:5492623
Hello there. Brilliant video, I'm looking to get a cnc machine as a total beginner to this kind of stuff. I have a question...
You mentioned a laser at some point in the video.
Are you able to add a laser to this machine and effectively turn it into a laser etcher/cutter ?
As I was looking to buy both, but if one does the job of 2, then that's even better.
Thank you in advance for any help 😁
I would say having 2 separate machines is still better for various reasons but yes you can install a diode laser on this machine. FoxAlien did used to sell them as a kit with the laser as well but other brands will also work. If not done so already just looking into diode lasers so you have realistic expectations
@JamesDeanDesigns thank you so much for the reply. I've done a bit of reading into the diode lasers, I think due to budget, it would be my starting point. So in theory, I can't see any point in me having both machines as yet. Unless you can point out any real negatives I may be missing. They still do the kit, I've just looked, and it comes with a 20w laser, which I believe is a good one to have. I would be doing the Makita rotor upgrade from the start. Thank you again for the reply, it's much appreciated 😊
Another great video James and very helpful. You reviewed the 60W and Makita routers but what is your opinion on the 300W?
The 300w spindle is OK, but truthfully given given price differences, the power differences, I would always pick the Makita (or other brand) over the 300w spindle
I read someone on Reddit encountered an issue of the machine slipping while moving along an access which threw of its timing. Have you encountered this?
Hi! couldn't find the link for Makita spindle update. Can you help?
Where do I buy the files for the dust covers?
What kind of software do you recommend to use because I’m new for this machine
Does it run on 220v or 110v only? As I cannot find that info on their website
Totally new to this. Whats the advantage of upgrading to the Mikata vs the nema that was on there??
Also are the new set of wheels that you changed the same with the ones that were already installed?
Does this machine metal better than the Genmitsu 4040 Pro?
You do a steel test in this one but not the other and you do .5mm at 500mm a minute but the other one you do .3-.4 at 1000mm a minute.
Were the same bits used? Could the other not do steel or was it just not tested?
I ask because in your vs video you say the Genmitsu has better steppers so is stronger. Is this not the case due to the frame?
How would the Genmitsu do in depth in comparison if they were both going at 500mm/minute?
Looking to buy a cnc to make some tesla turbines. Trying to get a cheap one so these two are great options. Atm thinking about the genmitsu but I want to be safe rather than sorry.
Thanks a ton!
It just wasn't tested. Whilst both machines can do metal, and mainly soft metals at that, the reality is they are not primarily designed for metal. So if you're just doing a bit here and there it might be ok but if you're looking for a machine to mainly do metal then something like the 3030 Pro max I reviewed would be a better choice
@@JamesDeanDesigns I’ll give it a look. The metal I’m looking to machine is maybe +-.2 mm thick each anyway so I don’t think I’d put too much stress on it but I’ll definitely give the 3030 pro max a look.
Thanks for the response!
What would you recommend for fine text aluminium engraving? This or something like the genmitsu 3020?
Nice review ! So we have Masuter pro, Vasto and Prover 4030 (Saintsmart). Which one is the best for you ? Speking price and bed size the Masuter pro is very well placed vs the Prover 4030 but the sainsmart look more robust isn't it ?
For me the Vatso is top, it's a really high spec machine. Then the ProverXL 4030, and then the Masuter Pro but that's also reflected in their prices. They all have their plus points, for example the ProverXL can be extended but at the moment the other two can't ( although I think extensions are coming)
Hello and Thank you for your informative review, I ordered my new Foxalien Masuter pro on 27th December it arrived next day, its a solid machine and with all the reductions found on line you can buy this for under £480 now. however I have been using laser for two years and found my designs can be used if re saved to a g file, do you agree? I am still trying to get to grips with the machine, still not cut anything and would like to learn how to place the job for cutting, bobs cnc basic, inskape or lightburn all seam to design ok, but what is best for a sender UGS? how do I set the position for cutting? any help appreciated.
First of all, I'd like to say your presentations are awesome. I learned to use the CNC3-3018Pro with them. I just bought the Masuter Pro machine, and I am having some serious issues in that the machine is not cutting to the correct depth settings. It navigates to the correct positions but cuts too deep and inconsistently, meaning different depths. I am using Easel software and ugc sender. I have deleted and reinstalled the machine in Easel but the issues remain the same. The choices given are Fox Alien but they don’t offer Pro, so I chose other and configured accordingly. I also attempted with the 4040 model with the same results. What could be wrong?
Just ordered the machine using your link and was cheaper than amazon. I will install a makita and using for woodworking, hardwood and soft wood plus acrylic, any suggestions which bits I should buy?
Thank you 👍 if you haven't done so already, check out my guide on bits. You can use different bits on different materials so it's about the finish you're trying to achieve on each job but this video covers all the basic bits th-cam.com/video/obwwoEAbBjc/w-d-xo.html
Where can I buy the dust boots I don't have a 3d printer
hello, to cut plexiglass what speed of movement do you recommend and what speed of rotation of the cutter (1 flute - 1.5mm)? Thank you so much
really useful overview thanks
but why 28.8mm?
Какой размер лазера можно установить без дополнительных пластин
what bit are you using for the metal carving
Hi, I am having problems with my FoxAlien Masuter Pro skipping when roughing large areas which them ruins my design and I have to start again so was wondering (after watching this video) if part of the problem might be the wheels as I have upgraded to the Makita Router, I have found your video on how to change them and ordered a set from your link but could some of the reason be the the tracks get covered in dust and chippings making the smooth running not so smooth (even if I do sit with Henry running constantly trying to hoover up as it is running but of course staying out of the routers way) so could you let me know where I could buy a set of dust shoes from? I see you have sent people to your 3D template on Thingiverse but I don't have a 3D machine so PLEASE is there anywhere to purchase them from?
Great review! How do you think the masuta pro compares with Vasto? Can you cut aluminium with the Vasto?
The Vasto is in another league, but equally its 3 times the cost. If you drop a 1.5kw spindle in the Vasto it's goes through steel like butter. Check out TechyDIY review of it. Its a brilliant review of the Vasto
I want to use the Z probe with Easel Pro. If I enter the thickness of the plate into the Machine Settings in Easel, does it then generate code into the .nc file that I send to the machine? I'm sending the .nc files through the offline controller, not using Candle or other sending software.
If you're using an offline controller, there should be an option on it to run the probe from there. Easel doesnt put that information into the nc file
Thanks James im still busy setting it up but it so hot in europe at the moment that im leaving it for now... but i have the new wheels come in and the router from makita 1/4 1/8 bit and bits so im ready when i set it up thanks for all your messages in the FB group and helping me get started. do you have that tool for the router to check if its straight in the socket that orange 3d printed part do you have the stl on your patreon? thanks for the video!
really interested in these machine , Which laser unit do you recommend for this machine as i have just learnt on a basic machine and now I feel it's time to upgrade to a much better machine ( currently using " light burn on apple Mac ) as this is my primary use to start with. through one day i do plan to have a go a router work as well .
i'm quite experienced now with laser and how it all works and I understand . I watched and learnt a lot of my skills from your TH-cam channel and thank you very much and trust your judgement .
I would like a strong laser, high powered instead of the 20w which was alright, but I would like to go to the next level. any additional information for me would be really helpful.
Thank you very much ....
Hi, I think i have just replied to your other comment on the different video which hopefully covers the questions :)
What wheels did you use to replace originals?
James if you could only choose 1 which would it be the Masuter Pro or the 4040XE
The 4040xe is stronger, but I think the Masuter Pro with an upgraded router or spindle is better overall value
Hi James, I have learned a lot from your videos. What all would I need to upgrade the Masuter Pro to nema 23 stepper motors. I'm assuming I would need a new control board and power supply.
Yes, you'll obviously need nema 23 motors, a control board that can supply enough power and a way to mount the stepper motors as the holes are in different positions
Hey James have you seen the comgrow 3020? I was wondering if you have any thoughts on it do you think it would make a good entry level cnc?
What the name off this machine we’re I can buy one please
Can you use the Dewalt palm router in this machine?
The holder that comes with this as standard is 65mm diameter. You would need to buy a 69mm diameter holder in order to take the dewalt
Great video!
How did you secure the support beams on the bottom of the bed?
Is the 300w spindle able to mill aluminum? I would assume so, but it probably requires shallower passes and slower feed rates? Let me know. I am considering the package with the 300 spindle and the laser.
You're spot on! It will do it just going to take a little more time 👍
what for an app are you using for measuring the DB form the machine in this video?
very awesome presentation.I am thinking of getting a cnc machine or a CO2 laser and fiber laser.I just don't know what can be done by a laser and what can be done by a cnc machine?
Hey James, really love your videos. They have been helping a ton with getting started with my Masuter pro. What did you use to attach the supports on the bottom of the bed?
Just glue I believe. Can't remember if it was CA glue or wood though 🤔
Hello James Dean,
I just purchased a masuter pro and was wondering how and where I can speed up my machine. It's running very slow! I'm using the makita router with it.
Disregard, I figured it out! Thank you!!
Hi, Can it engraving on to Stainless steel? I want to be able to engrave on to lighter and stuff.. Thank you
It can but I would say fine detail metal engraving is not its strong point. However check what your lighters are as my zippos are aluminium. I always used to think they were stainless
Awesome review James, a great machine indeed.
The delivery guy just dropped off my new Masuter Pro. I cant wait to get this thing up and running. A quick question, James. Where can I find the files for your 3d printed dust shoes as well as the tramming jig? I think both of those would be a great benefit. Thanks
👍 They can be found here www.thingiverse.com/james_dean_designs/designs
Hi, any news on the Masuter pro dust shoes as mentioned on the clip man thanks
www.thingiverse.com/thing:5492623 :)
Could you make a tutorial about carving 2.5D starting from an STL file please
I will be starting a Carveco series shortly and I'll be covering this 👍
i saw in the back you have there an enclosure.i think there is a cnc machine.really awesome built.would it be possible to get a plan from this maybe?I am planning on getting a cnc machine or co2 laser for building 3d models and plans and sell this online
Hola que medida son los rodamientos nuevos que puso ?
4:07 you mention tthe steppers are nema17, the website is stating nema23. Do you know if they've been updated on recent machines?
Are you sure, I just checked for this machine and it doesn't list nema 23s. Regardless, they are definitely nema 17. 100%
@@JamesDeanDesigns I stand corrected, no idea where I got that from. It's been a long day 😂.
Thanks for the quick response, love the vids btw 😀
Hi, I hope you can help me,I recently bought a 3018 engraver, everything worked great at first following your brilliant videos but now when using Lightburn I get this error message when trying to cut a file :-
(Starting stream
Layer C00
error:3
Grbl '$' system command was not recognized or supported.
On or near line 0:
Job halted
Stream completed in 0:00)
It frames OK and It works OK in GBRL.
Thanks Ken
Hi James I really enjoy your videos they have really helped a beginner like me. I just started and used easel and really enjoyed not that my usage time is up it is no longer free and they are asking for a $200 fee, do you know of any other platform that is free that can replace easel?
Hello. Do you have an idea, for the TH-cam plaque, of the rotation speed you used? Was it full speed? Thanks
Think spindle speed was at full power. Stepdown of 0.4mm, Feed rate at 500 mm/min and plunge of 100mm/min
@@JamesDeanDesigns Thanks!
Curious about the laser port. 2 pin or 3 pin and do I need to flash firmware? Cool machine!
Pretty sure it's 3 pin (but I'll check shortly) but no change in firmware, just a case of changing the switch
I want to use this as a pen plotter. But to draw on 3d objects that has barying heights.(max height wpuld of course have to be less than the extrusion lowest point.)and the drill parts removed and replaced with a pen holder.
Does this cnc manchine have the capability to control the z axis at varying heights and reach those different heights quickly while it is on...instead of just drill bit down , drill bit up
Saw the rest of the video💀💀💀 think it can
@@hamzaarshad861 yes it should 👍
James, I absolutely love you videos and knowledge of CNC machines. I’m overwhelmed with the choices. I’m on a budget around $1000 US, I want to be able to carve into graphite molds for pouring metals for myself not on a big scale. Given that budget which CNC would you recommend? And what bits. Thank you !!! Merry Christmas 🎄🎁
Difficult one for me to answer as I haven't actually cut graphite. I'd probably look at the ProverXL 4030 from Sainsmart. It comes with a 300w spindle but you can pick up makita clone routers for under $50 that should cut the graphite pretty well. shrsl.com/2ltp2
I should mention the Masuter Pro will probably machine it as will with the makita router and you may have a little change left over as well 😉
Thank you James.
Can i use my ER-11 collet set with the Makita? It just says 1/4" on the amazon site but it looks like ER-11. Great video.
No the Makita uses a proprietary style collet. You can use a 1/4 to 1/8th collet adapter to use 1/8th bits.
Hello: Are those wheel covers available for sale or download yet? Thanks and keep up the good work.
www.thingiverse.com/thing:5492623
@@JamesDeanDesigns Thank You -
Awesome video
Thanks!
where is the link to the dust shoes?
They can be found here
www.thingiverse.com/james_dean_designs/designs
I want to cut hollow aluminum tube. I can find a lathe that’s not manual. Would this work
It depends on how long or deep you want to go. You’ll be limited by the height of your z-axis and the cutting length of your bit. You’ll also need to consider how you’ll clamp the piece. IMO, you’d only be able to do 1 to 2 inches. You could do several inches on a lathe. I’ve carved about 1” into Aluminum with a 4030 and an Amana aluminum bit. I made a wood jig to hold the piece, a circle with a lengthwise slot that I could clamp tight.
@@woodman72265 Thanks that helps
Hello James! Great videos my man. I would like to know how it would handle a makita swindle. Is it sturdy enough to do so?
James is a clickbaiter. F James.
He didnt show machining steel. Go get do not recommended.
Hello James great videos I'm definitely planning on getting the pro but my question is as far as doing tiling.Can the control box be removed for wider stock .
Guessing you didn't watch all the way to the end of the video 😆
Yes, you can either remove one screw and pivot it out the way or remove both screws and take it off completely
I asked that before I watched the video and then when I watched the video I realize why did I send that right away LOL thank you for your response love you videos
Hi James, first of all, thanks for the Masuter Pro review.
I have little knowledge of CNC Router, but when I see CNC machines driven with belts instead of Ball Screws, I get a little "backward"; this, because of the precision and robustness. But you, who must be very experienced in CNC Router, what do you say about this Router Masuter Pro, since it uses belts for its traction? I mean, can she carve wood with ease, using Spindle (for a small business)?
Secondly, is it possible to replace these rubber wheels that hold the axles with metal wheels, as you have in other laser machines?
Finally, how much laser power can this machine support/supply? Thank you very much
Generally speaking, ball screw drive is better, but also more expensive which is why you rarely find them on budget machines. Belts are usually reinforced with steel wire which makes them stronger than they used to be so still capable of doing the job.
Even if you could, you wouldn't want to replace the wheels with metal ones. There needs to be an element of friction to help keep it steady and the rubber wheels give that little bit of cushion to allow this.
Hope that helps
@@JamesDeanDesigns Yes it helped, thank you very much.
It's just that I'm a bit of a perfectionist and I prefer something more professional but, as you said, that comes at a higher cost.
James, I've been considering this machine as an entry into CNC's but I've seen some reports of issues with the v-wheels getting flat sports that appear to be unremovable and even replacing them doesn't help. Given that I'd be pushing the budget with this, is it worth getting? Should I save more for something better? I\d want to be using a Makita as the spindle. Primary materials would be hardwood / MR-MDF
The issue is the wheels are pretty tight on arrival so they essentially arrive with flat spots, not ideal but to be honest, most preassembled machines with wheels like these often arrive with flat spots. I changed mine out with a new set from amazon, fairly cheap about £12 I think, and it's been fine since
@@JamesDeanDesigns Hello from France, just because of your great video, I just bought one :-) Do you mind to share the link for the wheels ? So happy to start with it ! I am confortable with 3 D printer and fusion 360. Do you think it ll be a big deal to use this cnc ? Have a great day. Laurent
@@laurentbleu35 Hi Laurent, in theory this link should take you to the equivalent product in your country amzn.to/3yUY43F
Hi James, based on your review I recently purchased this machine. I'm new to CNC and have found your channel to be really helpful. Unfortunately, I'm having a lot of issues cutting successfully on my Masuter Pro. I'm trying to make some templates out of 12mm MDF and every time, the cutting starts OK but about half way through the machine just goes off track, predominately on the Y axis. I've adjusted to feed down to 800mm/min, plunge to 200mm/min with a 1mm depth of cut. I started with a 1/8 compression bit but have also tried with a 1/4 spiral upcut bit and yet I'm still not able to finish the job without it going off track. I noticed whilst the machine is homing that applying a very light grip on the Y axis jog wheel will stall the motor, is this normal? Any pointers to help would be really appreciated. Thanks
I'm having the same issues, did you find a fix?
Do you know what would cause this condition? I carved a US Flag, when it was done, no blade change, I decided to let it carve a second time to hopefully get rid of some of the rough spots, when I carved the second time the carving was not in the same place, meaning a little off so my project was ruined, what would cause this? Thanks in advance.
At some point it sounds like it may have missed steps. This literally could have been on the very last journey back to the start position or at any other time during the job. It may have been one step here and there meaning you may not have seen it on the carving but ultimately they accumulate. Missing steps can be caused by belts or wheels too tight. Sometimes running at to high a speed as well
@@JamesDeanDesigns thanks
What design program is this compatible with?
Carveco, Vectric, Easel etc. Essentially everything I mention in this video th-cam.com/video/EMI97Rcb0bQ/w-d-xo.html
Hey I would like to own one of your machine