Thank you Adrian, you were saying that it was quite embarrassing to make a video, but I think in the end, you save us from making those mistakes. At least for me, I will remember those, when changing mine.
Glad you were not embarrassed to make this video, my spring fell off too and I couldnt work out how it went back! Your video saved me a lot of time!! Thanks
Thank you kind sir for posting. Your demonstrations (and lessons learned) are a huge help and confidence boost for novices like me. I was able to successfully change both my front and back brake pads on my NC700X by following your sage wisdom.
Thanks so much for this video ( and including your mistakes!). It guided me to doing my first brake replacement to perfection! Love your hints and tips. Regards Dave from Fleetwood, Lancashire UK
Thanks a lot ! very clear video!Don't forget, after changing the brake pads, ride over-safely for the first kilometers, just in case of a mistake or anything ;)Drive safe V
Thank you for this, I made the same mistakes as you, and did not have another bike to look at to see how the spring clip went back in. After watching your video it was 5 minutes and I was done. Thanks again.
Good job. I preffer to polish pistons, and change brake fluid. BUT it will take a lot of time. Usually i close the hose with a clamp, then disconnect brake mechanism and clean it and pistons. After this they will move smooth, very easy. But after this changing fluid is obligatory... Also should pump all the air from fluid away. I preffer to change fluid atleast each 2 years, because it will contain water inside. Thanks
Good video.! Most of your mistakes are minor and won’t really affect the brakes. BUT... Not cleaning your pistons before pushing them back in could prove very costly.! It’s not hard to find stories of jammed calipers cause by dirt getting lodged in the seals. Keep a close eye on your front brake as I get the feeling it won’t be running freely. May need a caliber rebuild.$$$. Good luck.
Nice job Adrian. I'll be able to service my bike by watching all your videos. Sorry about your brake caliper but you know... there's always one on Wendy's bike as you mentioned :-)
Return Rider - hmmm ... swap for Wendy’s ? Tempting but I’m too much of a wimp to take the risk! But a bit of sand paper and respray will sort it out. Just another job on the list.
According to the service manual, the pads are changed without removing the caliper. But I don't see how it would be possible to push back the pistons without damaging the rotor disk if the caliper is mounted.
Olá, tudo bem? Não recomendo colocar a graxa no parafuso guia das pastilhas de freio, pois o pó gerado pelo desgaste das mesmas irão se acumular nessa graxa usada para "lubrificar". Ali deve ficar a seco mesmo. E recomendo também, a troca do fluido de freio por completo ou seja o fluido que ficou dentro do conduíte que vai do reservatório até a pinça, pois o óleo velho irá contaminar o novo óleo que você colar. Ok? Abraços!
I noticed that jou idd not apply copper grease. I put a think layer of copper grease where the back of the brake pass touch the cilinders and on the spots were the brakel pass 'glide' past the 'guides' in the caliper. This prevents squeeking when you use the brakes.
Erik Loupias - I never use any form of lubricant on brakes. I don’t have a squeaking brake problem. Lookup “The Workshop” on TH-cam to get his opinion of that practice. But we all make our own choices, so good for you.
Lovely vid, as always, and enjoyable! In your years of owning a NC750X, have you ever felt that the brakes are a little weak because of the fact Honda only used a single disc brake on the front and rear, while the Africa Twin and similar bikes have dual discs on front and back. Let me hear your thoughts.
I agree they are not “sport bike” powerful. But it doesn’t worry me. I can get ABS to kick in under hard braking. This means it doesn’t matter how many discs I have, it’s up to the road conditions and tyre quality to stop the bike.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff Wow, you got 44K out of the originals? I must be stamping on the pedal. I have the Nc750s (I'm a short arse), but I think the brakes are the same. It's newish to me so am still learning about the bike. I found, compared to my previous Cbf500, there is very little engine braking, perhaps that's why I'm a little heavy handed brake-wise for now.
Chris Porter - I was mistaken. It is nearly 47,000km! We live in a semi rural area and only ride for pleasure so very little need for hard or constant braking.
Ah, that sounds great. I have to hack through central London twice a day, I'm constantly dodging millenials with their heads in their phones. Thanks for your time and your informative videos, Chris
i see you decided to change the very cheep std Honda blue back pads for what looks like something as equally rubbish . the brakes on the ncx and 500 x are terrible as std and improve greatly with decent sintered pads such as EBC FA196HH this give far better feel and all round performance ... you made me cringe pushing pistons back without cleaning them first , pushing all the grit and dirt passed the seal . i do lots of these at the shop and every caliper gets the tooth brush and cleaner treatment before i even think about pushing pads back ,i even push them out a little further with the pads out then i know i have got all the grime off . save your old tooth brushes just for this job . and keep the videos coming .... ian in not so sunny Scotland
I've replaced mine with a SBS sintered and after 3k km , the front brakes is still squeaky and annoy the hell out of me. I guess the rotor is not able to handle the sintered pads nicely.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff do you use any lock tight on you bolts? Speaking about pistons, what is the reason for not lubricating them? Risk that lubricant will get on the brake pads?
@@agga864 - keep in mind I’m not a trained mechanic. I’m just a bloke doing his own maintenance. I don’t use loctite but it wouldn’t hurt to use blue loctite on the two bolts securing the caliper. Correct - I don’t use lubricant as when it heats up during braking there could be a chance it melts into the pads of the disc.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff thanks for your reply, I'm not a mechanic as well, but trying to maintain my bike to save some money, and it seems that honda is user friendly enough to do so. Good point about wormup of the pistons, it could lead to some problems, I should considered that.. If you got any service manual, or online link to it, please share if it's possible. Good luck riding your bike and thanks a lot for knowledge sharing!
Am I correct in assuming these were OEM replacement brake pads? I'm guessing from your riding habits you didn't get special upgraded pads, but thought I'd ask for the record.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff Hi Adrian What is youre opinion about those pads after 2 years of use? Performance is ok? I need to change the pads.. so I have a dilema.. cheap organic, or expensive sintered/semi-sintered. I prefer to change the pads more often then to have wear on the brake disk. But I don't know if the braking power is ok on the cheap ones. Thanks.
EBC is the brand. Don’t know the model number. Bought them too long ago. I just ordered the ones for the NC. No disc wear in the last 40,000km I’ve had these pads.
Thank you Adrian, you were saying that it was quite embarrassing to make a video, but I think in the end, you save us from making those mistakes. At least for me, I will remember those, when changing mine.
Just a six minute video for a simply task. Thank you for not embellishing and presenting clearly, accurately and with perfect video!
Glad you were not embarrassed to make this video, my spring fell off too and I couldnt work out how it went back! Your video saved me a lot of time!! Thanks
Thank you kind sir for posting. Your demonstrations (and lessons learned) are a huge help and confidence boost for novices like me. I was able to successfully change both my front and back brake pads on my NC700X by following your sage wisdom.
Congratulations. It’s a good feeling to “do it yourself”.
I was going to buy the cross tourer 800x but after watching your videos I think I'll go for the nc750x purely as it seems so easy to work on
Thanks so much for this video ( and including your mistakes!). It guided me to doing my first brake replacement to perfection! Love your hints and tips. Regards Dave from Fleetwood, Lancashire UK
Thank you as always for sharing your experience, mistakes and tips with the rest of us. This is all very helpful.
Excellent video, you’re getting really good at doing stuff one handed 👍🏻
I really appreciate the time and effort you take to make such helpful videos.
Thank you so much for this movie. Today I changed the brake pads as you showed and it turned out that the brakes in my NC came back :)
Great video, thanks. Replaced my brake pads at 31000 - track days chew the single disc!!
Good video mate ,nothing wrong with showing someone how to save money doing stuff themselves rather than taking it to a stealer .
I hate those stupid mistakes we all make. It is good to have extra time and think of risks.
Another good easy to understand video. When you were using the clamp, I thought to myself you might have a rubber pad on it... oops... nope. Thanks!
Garth Howe - yes. Even if I had reversed the clamp it would have been better!
How convenient is this video.... Just as my breaks needed replacing 👍🏽
If you don’t have Brakes in USA, when you break a bike is it broken or come to a stop?! linguistic Maths!
As always, great video - and the mistakes helped as a reminder to not do the same! Thanks.
I just made mistake #4 with no idea where that spring clip ought to be... thank you!!!
Nice to hear I’m not the only one!
Never seen a video with the guy saying he made so many mistake Lool. Nice vid.
Thanks a lot ! very clear video!Don't forget, after changing the brake pads, ride over-safely for the first kilometers, just in case of a mistake or anything ;)Drive safe V
Thank you for this, I made the same mistakes as you, and did not have another bike to look at to see how the spring clip went back in. After watching your video it was 5 minutes and I was done.
Thanks again.
Mate -good Tutorial Greatings from Europe
Good job. I preffer to polish pistons, and change brake fluid. BUT it will take a lot of time. Usually i
close the hose with a clamp, then disconnect brake mechanism and clean it and pistons. After this they will move smooth, very easy. But after this changing fluid is obligatory... Also should pump all the air from fluid away.
I preffer to change fluid atleast each 2 years, because it will contain water inside.
Thanks
Good video.!
Most of your mistakes are minor and won’t really affect the brakes. BUT... Not cleaning your pistons before pushing them back in could prove very costly.!
It’s not hard to find stories of jammed calipers cause by dirt getting lodged in the seals.
Keep a close eye on your front brake as I get the feeling it won’t be running freely. May need a caliber rebuild.$$$. Good luck.
Thanks Adrian. Gonna do mine now. Will post an update in the Facebook group 😉
Nice job Adrian. I'll be able to service my bike by watching all your videos. Sorry about your brake caliper but you know... there's always one on Wendy's bike as you mentioned :-)
Return Rider - hmmm ... swap for Wendy’s ? Tempting but I’m too much of a wimp to take the risk!
But a bit of sand paper and respray will sort it out. Just another job on the list.
Great! Thank you very much, Adrian!
According to the service manual, the pads are changed without removing the caliper. But I don't see how it would be possible to push back the pistons without damaging the rotor disk if the caliper is mounted.
Thank you for everything .your video are a blaessing
Thanks!
Thank you. Much appreciated. 🥰
Olá, tudo bem?
Não recomendo colocar a graxa no parafuso guia das pastilhas de freio, pois o pó gerado pelo desgaste das mesmas irão se acumular nessa graxa usada para "lubrificar". Ali deve ficar a seco mesmo. E recomendo também, a troca do fluido de freio por completo ou seja o fluido que ficou dentro do conduíte que vai do reservatório até a pinça, pois o óleo velho irá contaminar o novo óleo que você colar. Ok?
Abraços!
I think you made a better job than some people pretending being pro.
So i don't think you're an idiot at all
Good job with some mistakes but we are not perfect or we would be not a human
I noticed that jou idd not apply copper grease. I put a think layer of copper grease where the back of the brake pass touch the cilinders and on the spots were the brakel pass 'glide' past the 'guides' in the caliper. This prevents squeeking when you use the brakes.
Erik Loupias - I never use any form of lubricant on brakes. I don’t have a squeaking brake problem. Lookup “The Workshop” on TH-cam to get his opinion of that practice.
But we all make our own choices, so good for you.
Sorry Mr. Ideale it was not meant to criticize you.
In fact I do like your vlogs as they are very well edities and the subjects are very well choosen.
Erik Loupias - no offence taken. I agree with you - I should have cleaned them even if they looked sort of ok.
Lovely vid, as always, and enjoyable!
In your years of owning a NC750X, have you ever felt that the brakes are a little weak because of the fact Honda only used a single disc brake on the front and rear, while the Africa Twin and similar bikes have dual discs on front and back.
Let me hear your thoughts.
I agree they are not “sport bike” powerful.
But it doesn’t worry me. I can get ABS to kick in under hard braking. This means it doesn’t matter how many discs I have, it’s up to the road conditions and tyre quality to stop the bike.
很棒的交學
That's great! Thanks for that. Have you done a video about changing the rear pads? Ta, Chris
Chris Porter - no video of rear pads. My originals are still good for quite a few thousand kms yet.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff Wow, you got 44K out of the originals? I must be stamping on the pedal. I have the Nc750s (I'm a short arse), but I think the brakes are the same. It's newish to me so am still learning about the bike. I found, compared to my previous Cbf500, there is very little engine braking, perhaps that's why I'm a little heavy handed brake-wise for now.
Chris Porter - I was mistaken. It is nearly 47,000km! We live in a semi rural area and only ride for pleasure so very little need for hard or constant braking.
Ah, that sounds great. I have to hack through central London twice a day, I'm constantly dodging millenials with their heads in their phones. Thanks for your time and your informative videos, Chris
В гараже используют шприц для отбора жидкости и сводилку для колодок, что бы суппорт не портить.
Brakes are crucial... no need to be embrassed about anything
Thanks for your video! I would like to know which handguards are you using in your bike. I would like to install some of them in my NC750X. Thanks!
Ruben Cangelosi - brand = “Bark Buster”, guard model “Storm”
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff Thanks!!
i see you decided to change the very cheep std Honda blue back pads for what looks like something as equally rubbish . the brakes on the ncx and 500 x are terrible as std and improve greatly with decent sintered pads such as EBC FA196HH this give far better feel and all round performance ...
you made me cringe pushing pistons back without cleaning them first , pushing all the grit and dirt passed the seal . i do lots of these at the shop and every caliper gets the tooth brush and cleaner treatment before i even think about pushing pads back ,i even push them out a little further with the pads out then i know i have got all the grime off . save your old tooth brushes just for this job . and keep the videos coming .... ian in not so sunny Scotland
I agree with the pads. I subsequently replaced them with EBC. I agree with all your observations. This is definitely a “don’t do it like this” video 😢
By changing to EBC brakes, do you mean you went with organic still? If so, how does it compare to the stock pads?
Great videos. Keep up the good work.
Thanks Adrian. Good stuff. Out of interest, how many Km did you get out of those pads? cheers
ChromHarpman - I said 44,000km but it was actually 46,700km on the original pads.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff sorry i must have missed that. Great mileage! you cant quibble about that. cheers
I've replaced mine with a SBS sintered and after 3k km , the front brakes is still squeaky and annoy the hell out of me. I guess the rotor is not able to handle the sintered pads nicely.
Good feedback. Thanks
Greeting! I got one question, is it worth to add some lubricant on the pistons during pads change?
Definitely no lubricant on pistons. Only use “brake clean”.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff do you use any lock tight on you bolts? Speaking about pistons, what is the reason for not lubricating them? Risk that lubricant will get on the brake pads?
@@agga864 - keep in mind I’m not a trained mechanic. I’m just a bloke doing his own maintenance.
I don’t use loctite but it wouldn’t hurt to use blue loctite on the two bolts securing the caliper.
Correct - I don’t use lubricant as when it heats up during braking there could be a chance it melts into the pads of the disc.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff thanks for your reply, I'm not a mechanic as well, but trying to maintain my bike to save some money, and it seems that honda is user friendly enough to do so.
Good point about wormup of the pistons, it could lead to some problems, I should considered that..
If you got any service manual, or online link to it, please share if it's possible.
Good luck riding your bike and thanks a lot for knowledge sharing!
@@agga864 if you join the Facebook group “Honda NC750X Owners group” you can download a service manual from the files section.
Am I correct in assuming these were OEM replacement brake pads? I'm guessing from your riding habits you didn't get special upgraded pads, but thought I'd ask for the record.
Andy C - $13.50 generic from eBay. Standard material. I don’t like the sintered ones as they are tougher on the disc.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff Hi Adrian
What is youre opinion about those pads after 2 years of use? Performance is ok?
I need to change the pads.. so I have a dilema.. cheap organic, or expensive sintered/semi-sintered.
I prefer to change the pads more often then to have wear on the brake disk.
But I don't know if the braking power is ok on the cheap ones.
Thanks.
The cheap ones are not worth buying. The braking was quite poor. I swapped them for EBC sintered. Much better.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff ebc sintered... I will go with that. The product name please? And any wear on the disk?
EBC is the brand. Don’t know the model number. Bought them too long ago. I just ordered the ones for the NC.
No disc wear in the last 40,000km I’ve had these pads.
nie musiałeś otwierać wieczka od płynu wystarczyło zapalić silnik i pompa sama by się odpowietrzyła pozdro
А про шприц не слышал ничего?
XD