Ive been building motors for decades. Professionally for a paycheck half as long. I recently got into casting and foundry work for another random project, and suddenly realized after i succesfully made a complicated part that i could now just MAKE my own parts/my own castings of rare performance parts (older parts with very few ever made or still around) when I realized THAT its like the whole universe opened up to me😂 all the unreachable things were now mine for the (making)😂
The only problem with being able to make everything is deciding where to use your limited time. I have more projects in my head that’s I have time to complete them haha.
Great job, friend! 👍I'm also building a v-twin, only the block is still iron, but I plan to cast it in the future.Thank you for sharing your experience.🤝
Sweet video - I'm looking to start a small foundry/machine shop and seeing a "foam" part "dipped" in plaster seems like a quick and dirty way to make parts - i like it and look forward to seeing your engine run! I'm working on a two stroke, similar to Ferrari's oil sump two stroke design
You'll think you died and went to heaven when you start using the CNC router for your patterns. I use 1/4"D x 2"L, double flute, spiral carbide cutters, either end mill or ball end mill for 90%+ of my machine work. I even design for such now. It will depend on your spindle speed, but most routers will be 20krpm+ without speed control and even still 10-15krpm with, and although you don't need carbide to cut foam, you do need the stiffness on a long spindly bit like that at those speeds. You don't want more than 2 flutes because although spindle speed can decrease with more flutes, they won't clear chips well. Hobby grade CNC machines often lack rigidity but their lightweight construction can be an advantage for cutting foam because the cutting forces are almost nil and your linear speed will be limited by the machine's (gantry and Z) inertial mass and corresponding ability to rapidly change direction. When I 3D machine more complex larger (24" x 12"x 4") patterns, I set the spindle at full speed (24krpm), 180-200 in/min, and .1 stepover with a 1/4" ball EM and just let it run, and it machines fillets and all. Most patterns within that envelope will finish in 30-60 minutes. If you have small features, you may need to back the linear speed down so you don't shake the machine apart with inertial loading. Of course 2D machining will always be faster. I typically use .4 stepover with end mills but once you see the finish with .1 on a ball end mill and realize one or two swipes of fine sandpaper makes the surface perfect, your desire to do tool changes will leave you unless it's a very large flat surface that would consume more run time. Many times, I don't even do rouging cuts depending upon tool path. You will need a very good dust boot and vacuum system. The foam chips will be charged and cling to everything. Make sure you ground your machine and shield wiring well or the EMI can turn Heaven into Hell! Best, Kelly.
Thanks for the detailed reply, I was thinking about using the 6mm ball endmill for everything, now I think I’ll give it a go. I still don’t have a cyclonic filter for the vacuum so I think that’ll be another hurdle before I start cutting.
@kellycoffield533 Im so glad to see you commenting, I watched all your videos and they are amazing. Do you have any book recommendations for getting into this sort of thing?
@kellycoffield533 im blown away at that vid you did with the engine cooling fins with only sand vibrated into the fins , like WOW , i had a crack at a large ish part , but i think i cooked the ally to hot
Bloody awesome. I had this same idea some years back, make a V4 out of 4 85cc cyls (I was thinking of using KTM cyls and cranks with individual cranks like the factory RG500 GP racers used) Lack of money and tools plus a young family...
Thanks, my engine is also using individual cranks, joined with a coupler. I can definitely relate to having a young family, a new born and 3 year old mean I have to plan my limited garage time a lot better to maximise productivity.
Thank you, I’ll be getting it heat treated to T6, there is a place near my house that will do it. The same people who hardened/ground the crank pin for the V Twin.
No idea what I'd expect to pay for that casting since there are so few foundries in my area. Does your foundry advertise a 'bring your own pattern' service? Or did you just walk up with the pattern and cash? I'm curious to hear how the conversation went.
I just rung around a bunch of foundries and the owner just happened to be interested and hadn’t seen lost foam done before. A lot of foundries will pour a casting for you if you have your own pattern. Don’t expect it to be cheap as the mould prep will also have a decent labour component attached plus material. I was given an induction and did a dry run for the pour and then I was allowed to pour it myself. I also set up the mould myself and took them through the process. In the end it cost me 70 NZD, more due to the fact the owner was interested/I detailed the entire process and I might take on some small one off pattern making jobs for them.
@@OddsandEndsMachining That's awesome, and thanks for the reply! 70 NZD sounds like an absolute steal for a part that big. Just a small fraction of what the material would cost if you machined it from plate. Interesting to hear that many foundries will do a pour if you supply the pattern as well... I'll have to keep that in mind for future projects. Cheers.
Thank you, the plaster is just a cheap substitute for the more expensive commercial grade refractories. It does a fairly good job and is fairly inexpensive.
That’s always another option. I think I might try my hand at using resin bonded sand first. Wax could be good for some of the more intricate parts like the water pump cover.
@@OddsandEndsMachining the cases themselves were good, the machining tolerances and cylinder to liner fitups were a different story. In some cases 5-7kmh difference between Monday and Friday cylinders. Quite a lot on bikes with top speeds that wouldn't get you a ticket in the city. Great job on the castings man!
I can only imagine the huge relief to see it come out as such a successful casting. So much time and effort paid off. I have no idea what the material and foundry cost would be, but I'm very interested to know the tough figure. As for the foam surface finish, I wonder if there is a way of doing a DIY wax spray to act like a high build primer. Over the years Ive been a bit interested in the very cool process of metal spraying. Amazing process for building up worn shafts and expensive dies or machine parts, but also used as an alternative to galvanising or electroplating for corrosion resistance. I wonder how hard it would be to modify a HVLP spray gun with a heated cup and gun body. It may be a case of smoothing the foam surface out with warm tools (which would be a massive time killer), but it could result in a light even texture that could be left as sprayed.
It was a massive relief, it would’ve been demoralising if it failed, probably showing me down a bit. All up it was $70 although, that is a bit of a special deal, but if you showed up with your own patterns you’d be looking around $250-350. The problem with too much wax is it creates more gas and would cool the aluminium down too much, the foam can be sanded very smooth, I was just a bit lazy in this case.
Brilliant result, out of interest, what did you calculate to allow for your material shrinkage on cooling. That perfectly flat lower surface should make your life easy come the time to machine your flat surfaces
Have you ever poured cast iron with this process? I am going to try an easy project but a little nervous because of the temps. What CAM do you use for your router?
I use fusion 360 for the cam, it’s relatively simple. I have not poured iron, I do believe it is a suitable process although you will likely have to use a professional grade refractory for the coating. You could also do a test pour uncoated and see how it turns out.
@@OddsandEndsMachining THank you. That block is a nice job BTW. Are you familiar with any type of temperature charts that suggest best pouring temps on different metals? I just built a diesel fired furnace but I am not 100% sure I can hit the temps to melt cast iron🤞
@@rufustoad1 I would just google the pour temp as it will be higher than the melting temp. For aluminium I run off 720c. Any higher and hydrogen gas becomes an issue as it dissolves in the molten metal. A diesel burner being fed enough air should be able to hit the required temps. Although I’m not an expert on this, check out the home foundry forum. There are plenty of experienced people on there willing to help out.
@@OddsandEndsMachining hey, its more progress than I have on my project, im stuck at the stage where designs are finished but I dont have the funding or following to start actually building it. I have an idea: I'll start designing a small sedan that uses your engine, and once it's done we sell them. It would definitely be a better choice to start with than a mid engine supercar like I've been working on.
@@JaxxonBlaze69 sounds like a plan haha, I doubt this engine would be able to move a car off the line without some serious clutch abuse and horrific fuel consumption.
@@OddsandEndsMachining My grandfather had a old Wisconsin v 4. As far as I know it ran but unfortunately I never got to see it run. It was originally made for farm use. So it was never in a car.
Great job there! I was just thinking if you'll be using an aftermarket crankshaft or are you making your own? In my mind, that is the trickiest part...
Thank you. I am modifying the standard crankshafts to work in my cases. Well that’s the plan, i am going to avoid making anything such as crankshafts unless absolutely necessary.
I don’t see why not, you would still need to harden/grind the end result. Cast cranks aren’t used in any high performance applications is my understanding.
@@BIGSMOKE-bl2lq haha don’t get me started I went down a full rabbit hole of get the yz85 cylinder making the crank housing to power a jet surf ! I have so many projects on haha. Should have another video out soon
Excellent, I'm playing with lost foam I'm in the UK any idea where I might get that blue foam? If not, do you have the name and spec? The stuff I'm using doesn't quite burn out properly.
Easy composites sell it in the uk, look them up. I got mine from here: www.insulationwholesalers.co.nz/Online_products/XPS-Extruded-Polystyrene-Foam-Board-c23467176?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7u2Brd6phgMVa6lmAh1hSA_8EAAYASAAEgKNhfD_BwE
I want to build something like this Soo bad.. maybe a V8, V10, v12. Designed to fit in the place of a Chevrolet V8. Possibly cast custom cylinders using cr500 pistons. Possibly a big bore version with a stroker crank, adding about 12-15 possibly 20-30 mm to the stroke and 6-12 mm to the bore. Use a supercharger /scavenger with bypass and a reverse centrafugal clutch that disengaged with more rpm, and use a couple turbos would be better for automotive use. Over crankcase breathing. With roughly 600-750, 800 cc per cylinder firing ever TDC, it's going to be a monster. Heck I'd like to build a parallel twin, vtwin, v4, built like a Detroit Diesel, 2-71,2-92 only a gasoline burner, a supercharger scavenged 2 stroke with valves for the exhaust . Using two then later 4-exhaust valves per cylinder!🤯, this has potential to make seriously insane power if the intake can supply enough to make use of it. With the intake ports surrounding the cylinder at. BDC. RPM is not your friend. Maybe a gas version could incorporate a supplemental intake valve in the head to open as the sleeve port is closing a high lift low duration to open while the lower are closing { OR } just use valves for both. A 4 valve design with really high ports so small exhaust valves can flow high CFM. With large long intake ports. Required longer valves. Use a double overhead cam. To allow cam timing and event timing changed to suit scavenging. Direct injection possibly using a high pressure accumulator store about .6 litre at 150 bar +/-50 bar. And port injection for high rpm high power to supplement fuel . E-85 to E-100 would be exelent. Two cylinders with about 1000-1200+cc each. With a bore being 150-160% of the stroke , say 50 mm stroke 80 mm bore.. But on a more reasonable level, my china scooter has basically everything possible done to it. High compression, big bore, big carbon, ported head. Gy6 50 cc with a cam, it's doing about all it can even turning 10k rpm. If like to cast a new case. To allow two 150 big bore cylinders to be used with a stroker crank. Doing about 200 cc each and possibly convert to a motorcycle head with 4 valves maybe two XR250 heads welded together. What would be awesome is cast a case to hold a xr,250 engine allowing the transmission to be used with the scooter rim. Capable of 0-60 in less than 4 sec, 0-100 in 6 sec,with a top speed around ,105-110 mph would be awesome. I doubt over 60-70 would feel safe!
If it’s something you seriously want to do, I would start with something small that uses common affordable parts. This way you can apply what you learn to bigger projects later on. The biggest learning curve is the 3D modelling, but it is also the cheapest step and can be done in any time frame.
There is about 25-30mm between the cylinders, I think I’ll leave it so if I cast some big bore cylinders way later on they can have large swooping transfer ducts. Also the architecture might not change much between 85cc to 125cc cylinders.
Nice work, just clean that casting up with a die grinder and some emery mops and you will never notice it under a coat of paint. Don't bog down on casting quality and get the rest of the engine done. Guessing $300.
I think that’s the plan at this stage. 70 NZD (which is not a normal charge out price, but it was more of a teaching exercise/curiosity thing for the foundry).
Very impressive the most enjoyable channel on iBook great work have u decided on the brgs for the cranks.good ol two strokes rely heavily on good crankseals to keep primary crankcase pressure in and gearbox oil out I’d be tempted to look at genuine deals from one of the big four manufacturers for those Are u going to run an oil pump? I’m not 100 percent sure but I think mostly the oil is fed into the inlet ports but it might b more elaborate than that in some engines a Yamaha Rz500 or Suzuki rg 500 oil pump mast b the go as they’re both for cylinder? What reeds r u using I think u can get carbon fibre ones now which r supposed to react quicker to changes in crankcase pressure really looking forward to the next instalment 🍻👍
Thank you, I’ll be using skf or Yamaha seals for the crankshafts. As for an oil pump, I’ll just be using premix to lubricate the bearings, 30:1. I will use standard YZ or V force reeds, likely whatever’s cheaper to start off with. On my RGV the oil is fed into the cylinder under the exhaust and behind one of the main bearings.
It is, it was a bit of a special deal as I showed them the entire process for the lost foam and explained all of the steps. Also, I took my own sand and all of my own supplies and prepped the mould myself. I’m in Palmerston North.
Rather than think in terms of milling- glueing up- and then ramming sand molds on all these parts you will burn out, you should look at it from the opposite perspective. That is, think of the MOLD as a group of parts you are trying to mold. That is, mill up patterns that would assemble to make the mold, with keyed inserts to print the cavities and such. Make rigid or silicone molds off those patterns. And that way you just fill those molds with investment, or with bonded sand, to make identical sets of mold parts. That way, you can cast as many engine parts as you want that will be identical, without having to go thru all this tedious hand assembly of foam bits for every part you want to make.
This has crossed my mind. If it works out well and it’s something I want to produce in small batches, this will be the method I use. I have access to resin bonded sand now which would be ideal. The only reason I am using foam for the prototype is for the convenience/cost and quicker pattern design.
I’m guessing 1 kangaroo is worth more then $25 otherwise 3 kangaroos is close haha. Although in NZ a kiwi might be a more relevant standard of measure.
I know my limits, I think a 500cc 2 stroke would be more intimidating than enjoyable to ride at my skill level. With 112cc cylinders it will be 450cc. But that’s just my take on it. I do enjoy a riding smaller bikes on track.
Thank you I was wondering this too. For me the dream would be a twin cylinder 500cc using two Honda CR250 barrels, perhaps reversed like one of the Yamaha TZR250's on a six speed gearbox.
I guess we will only find out when I begin machining. I’m not going to cut this up and test as I’d rather just crack on with the project. The V twin motor had no major porosity present due to the pour, the only porosity was due to pouring at too high of a temp and having more hydrogen dissolved in the aluminium.
Ive been building motors for decades. Professionally for a paycheck half as long. I recently got into casting and foundry work for another random project, and suddenly realized after i succesfully made a complicated part that i could now just MAKE my own parts/my own castings of rare performance parts (older parts with very few ever made or still around) when I realized THAT its like the whole universe opened up to me😂 all the unreachable things were now mine for the (making)😂
wait until metal 3d printing is ready for the masses at an affordable price
It is. About 10 grand you can 3d print at home with metal @eldinmuller7698
Me. All the unreasonable things are now mine for the making. How this foam core was shaped to its form.
RUN WITH IT!!!
The only problem with being able to make everything is deciding where to use your limited time. I have more projects in my head that’s I have time to complete them haha.
That engine will sound incredible
Awesome work. cant wait to see how it comes together
Great job, friend! 👍I'm also building a v-twin, only the block is still iron, but I plan to cast it in the future.Thank you for sharing your experience.🤝
Thank you. Good luck
This is amazing! Good luck with the project! A 350cc 2 stroke V4 sounds very interesting.
Awesome, cant wait for the engine halves to be casted next. Great job!
Thank you
Awesome progress you are making there.
Thank you
what are you doing here? Just ran across this channel, and i find you... damn... some stalker-esque cosmic giggle...
@@camillosteuss Hi Steuss, have to support my fellow Kiwi!
Sweet video - I'm looking to start a small foundry/machine shop and seeing a "foam" part "dipped" in plaster seems like a quick and dirty way to make parts - i like it and look forward to seeing your engine run! I'm working on a two stroke, similar to Ferrari's oil sump two stroke design
Thanks. That sounds like a cool project, keep me updated.
You'll think you died and went to heaven when you start using the CNC router for your patterns. I use 1/4"D x 2"L, double flute, spiral carbide cutters, either end mill or ball end mill for 90%+ of my machine work. I even design for such now. It will depend on your spindle speed, but most routers will be 20krpm+ without speed control and even still 10-15krpm with, and although you don't need carbide to cut foam, you do need the stiffness on a long spindly bit like that at those speeds. You don't want more than 2 flutes because although spindle speed can decrease with more flutes, they won't clear chips well. Hobby grade CNC machines often lack rigidity but their lightweight construction can be an advantage for cutting foam because the cutting forces are almost nil and your linear speed will be limited by the machine's (gantry and Z) inertial mass and corresponding ability to rapidly change direction.
When I 3D machine more complex larger (24" x 12"x 4") patterns, I set the spindle at full speed (24krpm), 180-200 in/min, and .1 stepover with a 1/4" ball EM and just let it run, and it machines fillets and all. Most patterns within that envelope will finish in 30-60 minutes. If you have small features, you may need to back the linear speed down so you don't shake the machine apart with inertial loading. Of course 2D machining will always be faster. I typically use .4 stepover with end mills but once you see the finish with .1 on a ball end mill and realize one or two swipes of fine sandpaper makes the surface perfect, your desire to do tool changes will leave you unless it's a very large flat surface that would consume more run time. Many times, I don't even do rouging cuts depending upon tool path. You will need a very good dust boot and vacuum system. The foam chips will be charged and cling to everything. Make sure you ground your machine and shield wiring well or the EMI can turn Heaven into Hell! Best, Kelly.
Thanks for the detailed reply, I was thinking about using the 6mm ball endmill for everything, now I think I’ll give it a go.
I still don’t have a cyclonic filter for the vacuum so I think that’ll be another hurdle before I start cutting.
@kellycoffield533 Im so glad to see you commenting, I watched all your videos and they are amazing. Do you have any book recommendations for getting into this sort of thing?
@kellycoffield533 im blown away at that vid you did with the engine cooling fins with only sand vibrated into the fins , like WOW , i had a crack at a large ish part , but i think i cooked the ally to hot
Bloody awesome. I had this same idea some years back, make a V4 out of 4 85cc cyls (I was thinking of using KTM cyls and cranks with individual cranks like the factory RG500 GP racers used)
Lack of money and tools plus a young family...
Thanks, my engine is also using individual cranks, joined with a coupler.
I can definitely relate to having a young family, a new born and 3 year old mean I have to plan my limited garage time a lot better to maximise productivity.
great job cant wait to see you cast the lower half
Thanks. Me too, hopefully I can get it done sooner rather than later.
Great work, once more exceptional casting, with you heat treating it, it will machine really well
Thank you, I’ll be getting it heat treated to T6, there is a place near my house that will do it. The same people who hardened/ground the crank pin for the V Twin.
Rad bro. First time I've seen your channel. Subbed
No idea what I'd expect to pay for that casting since there are so few foundries in my area. Does your foundry advertise a 'bring your own pattern' service? Or did you just walk up with the pattern and cash? I'm curious to hear how the conversation went.
I just rung around a bunch of foundries and the owner just happened to be interested and hadn’t seen lost foam done before. A lot of foundries will pour a casting for you if you have your own pattern. Don’t expect it to be cheap as the mould prep will also have a decent labour component attached plus material.
I was given an induction and did a dry run for the pour and then I was allowed to pour it myself. I also set up the mould myself and took them through the process.
In the end it cost me 70 NZD, more due to the fact the owner was interested/I detailed the entire process and I might take on some small one off pattern making jobs for them.
@@OddsandEndsMachining That's awesome, and thanks for the reply! 70 NZD sounds like an absolute steal for a part that big. Just a small fraction of what the material would cost if you machined it from plate.
Interesting to hear that many foundries will do a pour if you supply the pattern as well... I'll have to keep that in mind for future projects. Cheers.
I am very surprised for a lost foam casting.👀
You use plaster on your mold,,,, strange. 🤔
The result are great so good job man. 🙋
Thank you, the plaster is just a cheap substitute for the more expensive commercial grade refractories. It does a fairly good job and is fairly inexpensive.
After rough machining you can rubber mold to reproduce full plaster cast lost wax patterns.
That’s always another option. I think I might try my hand at using resin bonded sand first. Wax could be good for some of the more intricate parts like the water pump cover.
Mate... starting to come together. Looking bloody good! Sitting on the edge of my seat waiting for the next vid! Congrats on the progress so far.
Thank you, I can’t wait to get the next patterns made, hopefully i get them done in the next couple of months.
Looks better than factory made engine cases from my 50cc jawa 😂
That’s either a compliment or the bar is very low haha.
@@OddsandEndsMachining the cases themselves were good, the machining tolerances and cylinder to liner fitups were a different story. In some cases 5-7kmh difference between Monday and Friday cylinders. Quite a lot on bikes with top speeds that wouldn't get you a ticket in the city.
Great job on the castings man!
I can only imagine the huge relief to see it come out as such a successful casting. So much time and effort paid off.
I have no idea what the material and foundry cost would be, but I'm very interested to know the tough figure.
As for the foam surface finish, I wonder if there is a way of doing a DIY wax spray to act like a high build primer. Over the years Ive been a bit interested in the very cool process of metal spraying. Amazing process for building up worn shafts and expensive dies or machine parts, but also used as an alternative to galvanising or electroplating for corrosion resistance.
I wonder how hard it would be to modify a HVLP spray gun with a heated cup and gun body. It may be a case of smoothing the foam surface out with warm tools (which would be a massive time killer), but it could result in a light even texture that could be left as sprayed.
It was a massive relief, it would’ve been demoralising if it failed, probably showing me down a bit.
All up it was $70 although, that is a bit of a special deal, but if you showed up with your own patterns you’d be looking around $250-350.
The problem with too much wax is it creates more gas and would cool the aluminium down too much, the foam can be sanded very smooth, I was just a bit lazy in this case.
Bloody good
Nice work! So what is the material to fill the small gaps between the mold pieces?
Thanks. Fibreglass filleting wax, it melt at a low temperature.
Brilliant result, out of interest, what did you calculate to allow for your material shrinkage on cooling.
That perfectly flat lower surface should make your life easy come the time to machine your flat surfaces
Thanks, 1.3% seems to be the industry standard and works very well.
Have you ever poured cast iron with this process? I am going to try an easy project but a little nervous because of the temps. What CAM do you use for your router?
I use fusion 360 for the cam, it’s relatively simple. I have not poured iron, I do believe it is a suitable process although you will likely have to use a professional grade refractory for the coating.
You could also do a test pour uncoated and see how it turns out.
@@OddsandEndsMachining THank you. That block is a nice job BTW. Are you familiar with any type of temperature charts that suggest best pouring temps on different metals? I just built a diesel fired furnace but I am not 100% sure I can hit the temps to melt cast iron🤞
@@rufustoad1 I would just google the pour temp as it will be higher than the melting temp.
For aluminium I run off 720c. Any higher and hydrogen gas becomes an issue as it dissolves in the molten metal.
A diesel burner being fed enough air should be able to hit the required temps. Although I’m not an expert on this, check out the home foundry forum. There are plenty of experienced people on there willing to help out.
Awesome video. Earned a subscriber!
good job i hope more videos
HOLY SHIT THE V4 ENGINE DOES EXIST
Half of it at this stage haha
@@OddsandEndsMachining hey, its more progress than I have on my project, im stuck at the stage where designs are finished but I dont have the funding or following to start actually building it. I have an idea: I'll start designing a small sedan that uses your engine, and once it's done we sell them. It would definitely be a better choice to start with than a mid engine supercar like I've been working on.
@@JaxxonBlaze69 sounds like a plan haha, I doubt this engine would be able to move a car off the line without some serious clutch abuse and horrific fuel consumption.
@@OddsandEndsMachining eh, thats what R&D is for lol
@@OddsandEndsMachining My grandfather had a old Wisconsin v 4. As far as I know it ran but unfortunately I never got to see it run.
It was originally made for farm use. So it was never in a car.
Top job.......Thanks for posting...........
Thank you
Great job there! I was just thinking if you'll be using an aftermarket crankshaft or are you making your own?
In my mind, that is the trickiest part...
Thank you. I am modifying the standard crankshafts to work in my cases. Well that’s the plan, i am going to avoid making anything such as crankshafts unless absolutely necessary.
Reminds me of the langen v-twin. Its really a shame that not many 2 strokes are made anymore
Well, not many, if any road going 2 strokes. Mx bikes are still being made and selling in large numbers thankfully.
is it possible to cast a crankshaft by using this method?
I don’t see why not, you would still need to harden/grind the end result. Cast cranks aren’t used in any high performance applications is my understanding.
Boy, that little guy is gonna make some *T O R K* 😳
I think it’ll make a lot of noise and maybe a little bit of torque haha.
Excellent are you nz based would love to hear this thing if its ever out and about
Me too
Yes, based in Palmerston North. I’ll make sure to bring it out to Motofest or something similar when it’s done.
@DktheWelder when you gonna start casting some bits make a small foundry behind the shed haha make some cast iorn safty corcs 🤣
@@BIGSMOKE-bl2lq haha don’t get me started I went down a full rabbit hole of get the yz85 cylinder making the crank housing to power a jet surf ! I have so many projects on haha. Should have another video out soon
@@OddsandEndsMachining nobody doing this cool stuff ever seems to live in Hamilton haha
Excellent, I'm playing with lost foam I'm in the UK any idea where I might get that blue foam? If not, do you have the name and spec? The stuff I'm using doesn't quite burn out properly.
I think Yu require extruded foam for the pattern making machines and finished better than expanded foam
@@karlvanboxel561 i appreciate that but i cant find it
Easy composites sell it in the uk, look them up.
I got mine from here:
www.insulationwholesalers.co.nz/Online_products/XPS-Extruded-Polystyrene-Foam-Board-c23467176?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7u2Brd6phgMVa6lmAh1hSA_8EAAYASAAEgKNhfD_BwE
I want to build something like this Soo bad.. maybe a V8, V10, v12. Designed to fit in the place of a Chevrolet V8. Possibly cast custom cylinders using cr500 pistons. Possibly a big bore version with a stroker crank, adding about 12-15 possibly 20-30 mm to the stroke and 6-12 mm to the bore. Use a supercharger /scavenger with bypass and a reverse centrafugal clutch that disengaged with more rpm, and use a couple turbos would be better for automotive use. Over crankcase breathing. With roughly 600-750, 800 cc per cylinder firing ever TDC, it's going to be a monster. Heck I'd like to build a parallel twin, vtwin, v4, built like a Detroit Diesel, 2-71,2-92 only a gasoline burner, a supercharger scavenged 2 stroke with valves for the exhaust . Using two then later 4-exhaust valves per cylinder!🤯, this has potential to make seriously insane power if the intake can supply enough to make use of it. With the intake ports surrounding the cylinder at. BDC. RPM is not your friend. Maybe a gas version could incorporate a supplemental intake valve in the head to open as the sleeve port is closing a high lift low duration to open while the lower are closing { OR } just use valves for both. A 4 valve design with really high ports so small exhaust valves can flow high CFM. With large long intake ports. Required longer valves. Use a double overhead cam. To allow cam timing and event timing changed to suit scavenging. Direct injection possibly using a high pressure accumulator store about .6 litre at 150 bar +/-50 bar. And port injection for high rpm high power to supplement fuel . E-85 to E-100 would be exelent. Two cylinders with about 1000-1200+cc each. With a bore being 150-160% of the stroke , say 50 mm stroke 80 mm bore..
But on a more reasonable level, my china scooter has basically everything possible done to it. High compression, big bore, big carbon, ported head. Gy6 50 cc with a cam, it's doing about all it can even turning 10k rpm. If like to cast a new case. To allow two 150 big bore cylinders to be used with a stroker crank. Doing about 200 cc each and possibly convert to a motorcycle head with 4 valves maybe two XR250 heads welded together. What would be awesome is cast a case to hold a xr,250 engine allowing the transmission to be used with the scooter rim. Capable of 0-60 in less than 4 sec, 0-100 in 6 sec,with a top speed around ,105-110 mph would be awesome. I doubt over 60-70 would feel safe!
If it’s something you seriously want to do, I would start with something small that uses common affordable parts. This way you can apply what you learn to bigger projects later on.
The biggest learning curve is the 3D modelling, but it is also the cheapest step and can be done in any time frame.
Would you try to make the engine narrower? Or just keep the width since your using those single cylinder heads.
There is about 25-30mm between the cylinders, I think I’ll leave it so if I cast some big bore cylinders way later on they can have large swooping transfer ducts.
Also the architecture might not change much between 85cc to 125cc cylinders.
Nice work, just clean that casting up with a die grinder and some emery mops and you will never notice it under a coat of paint. Don't bog down on casting quality and get the rest of the engine done.
Guessing $300.
I think that’s the plan at this stage.
70 NZD (which is not a normal charge out price, but it was more of a teaching exercise/curiosity thing for the foundry).
Qual tipo de espuma você uza
Extruded polystyrene. XPS, it is used in construction under concrete slabs.
Very impressive the most enjoyable channel on iBook great work have u decided on the brgs for the cranks.good ol two strokes rely heavily on good crankseals to keep primary crankcase pressure in and gearbox oil out I’d be tempted to look at genuine deals from one of the big four manufacturers for those Are u going to run an oil pump? I’m not 100 percent sure but I think mostly the oil is fed into the inlet ports but it might b more elaborate than that in some engines a Yamaha Rz500 or Suzuki rg 500 oil pump mast b the go as they’re both for cylinder? What reeds r u using I think u can get carbon fibre ones now which r supposed to react quicker to changes in crankcase pressure really looking forward to the next instalment 🍻👍
Deals = seals 😅
Thank you, I’ll be using skf or Yamaha seals for the crankshafts. As for an oil pump, I’ll just be using premix to lubricate the bearings, 30:1. I will use standard YZ or V force reeds, likely whatever’s cheaper to start off with.
On my RGV the oil is fed into the cylinder under the exhaust and behind one of the main bearings.
70 NZD is a very cheap price, where are you based?
It is, it was a bit of a special deal as I showed them the entire process for the lost foam and explained all of the steps. Also, I took my own sand and all of my own supplies and prepped the mould myself.
I’m in Palmerston North.
So cool , good job on the foam came out well! Would lost PLA casting work for something?
Yes, although printing that pattern would have taken a long time to print, it would have also required a special coating for the shell casting.
Rather than think in terms of milling- glueing up- and then ramming sand molds on all these parts you will burn out, you should look at it from the opposite perspective. That is, think of the MOLD as a group of parts you are trying to mold. That is, mill up patterns that would assemble to make the mold, with keyed inserts to print the cavities and such. Make rigid or silicone molds off those patterns. And that way you just fill those molds with investment, or with bonded sand, to make identical sets of mold parts. That way, you can cast as many engine parts as you want that will be identical, without having to go thru all this tedious hand assembly of foam bits for every part you want to make.
This has crossed my mind. If it works out well and it’s something I want to produce in small batches, this will be the method I use. I have access to resin bonded sand now which would be ideal. The only reason I am using foam for the prototype is for the convenience/cost and quicker pattern design.
Subbed!
You're the next john britten, what part of nz are you?
Thanks, Palmerston North, it’s not as bad as they say haha.
That’s wicked, can I have one?
Thanks, I will see how this one goes and I might sell a few machined castings when it’s up and running.
Superb Aussie, superb.
Since I have no idea about what it costs you.
I'm going to just guess that it cost you three kangaroos!
Just kidding.
I’m guessing 1 kangaroo is worth more then $25 otherwise 3 kangaroos is close haha. Although in NZ a kiwi might be a more relevant standard of measure.
Kiwi's measure in sheep.
Baaaahhh 🤣
Why not a v-5
Imagine trying to package 5 exhausts. . . The major problem with multi cylinder and big bore 2 strokes is making good efficient exhausts fit.
Why only 350cc ?. All that work !.
I know my limits, I think a 500cc 2 stroke would be more intimidating than enjoyable to ride at my skill level. With 112cc cylinders it will be 450cc.
But that’s just my take on it. I do enjoy a riding smaller bikes on track.
Thank you I was wondering this too.
For me the dream would be a twin cylinder 500cc using two Honda CR250 barrels, perhaps reversed like one of the Yamaha TZR250's on a six speed gearbox.
Although a part of me thinks a 1000cc on two 509cc barrels would be more fun...lol
@@fuzielectron5172 look up the Tularis race bike
There were people that made that 1000cc 2 cylinder on 999laser's youtube channel. It was a hill climb bike with 2 cr500 cylinders
Good i will not be expeecting you to ask for any of my designs either.
It would be interesting to know how much porosity is present.
I guess we will only find out when I begin machining. I’m not going to cut this up and test as I’d rather just crack on with the project.
The V twin motor had no major porosity present due to the pour, the only porosity was due to pouring at too high of a temp and having more hydrogen dissolved in the aluminium.
🥲
Best I can do is $350
Divide it by 5 . . . Although I didn’t pay for any labour, as I did all of that myself, only the molten material by weight.
That fucking noise.