If anybody has any questions; feel free to ask here or on my discord server (link in desc). I hope all of you enjoy this video and find it informative and helpful.
This is a great guide, far better than anything I've found anywhere else on the topic, I couldn't drive half the front engine cars in S1 without using aero until I saw this, thanks for the video 👌
Great Info brother!! I have a question for you, do you have a wheel? and if so do you feel a difference between controller and wheel and can you break it down if so? I enjoy the content subbed!
Suave my dude✌🏼Firstly, thanks for the sub👍🏼 Secondly, I do have a wheel (Logitech Driving Force GT) but unfortunately the pedals don't work properly anymore. In terms of there being a difference, there definitely is. Controllers have all the inputs you would need to give to the game all in one place but the downside to it is that it's cramped. For example, I have issues driving manual with clutch on a controller even though I tried changing the controls around and stuff, it just all feels unnatural but the plus side is that the inputs are quick and responsive. A steering wheel (there's two types here; a normal vibration spring wheel and a force feedback wheel, I will speak about a force feedback wheel) has a very natural feel when comparing it to driving a real car but it does take some getting used to and there is almost always some setup required to get it right according to your preference because you do need some strength to turn the wheel during tighter corners, faster corners, etc but when it comes to the wheel reacting the way a real car would, it's practically spot on. Especially these days with force feedback having been developed and advanced to the point where it is today. Plus, having the three pedal and H Shifter setup would definitely help with being more precise with your driving not to mention that the more range of control you have on the wheel (wheels generally have the option to go from 180 degrees to 900 degrees turning radius, some I've seen go a little bit more) gives you more accurate control of the car when going through a track and picking your line down to the very last inch/cm that you want the car to go on but this is a double edged sword because you have to turn the wheel quickly to match the pace of the car or you could use a reduced turning radius on the wheel (when my wheel last worked, I was using a turning radius of 500 degrees and I mainly used it for drifting, force feedback made it especially fun) so in the end, there are differences and there are pros and cons. If you looking to get one, there are so many nice options out there at the moment and some of them are even budget options like the T128 or T248 from thrust master and recently I say some PXN V10 wheel, I think it's fairly new but reviews say that these wheels are good but I'd like to see a long term review and double check it the components used in the wheel withstand the test of time and the thrashing that wheels get put through with the way they are used. Don't forget to join the discord (link in my videos' descriptions) so you can stay up to date with upcoming videos and streams and perhaps even join in on the fun😬👍🏼✌🏼
Oh and currently I am using a Turtle Beach Recon Controller. Very good controller because it has like an amp built into it with audio controls integrated on the controller (more tailored to FPS games) and the layout and feel is very similar to the current XBox controller. Will never buy an Xbox controller again, comes with a 6 month warranty and I bought one that went in for repairs like 5 times and each time it came back, it didn't work. It had something called stick drift. The right stick (in my case) was giving input that I am pushing the stick to the right so everytime I used it, it would pan the camera over to the side of the car and... Well, it's unusable lol hence I recommend the Turtle Beach Recon Controller, about the same price as the Xbox controller but with a better warranty, more features and it's lasting (I tried PDP and Power A controllers as budget options and on day one, the stopped working after about an hour of gameplay)
All the tips and tricks Mr. RacingReaper describes here improve the handling of the car, and will up show in faster speeds, quicker times, and fewer crashes, no matter what your input device is. When you use a modern wheel (Moza R5 myself) you get to feel the changes you make in settings through the different wheel reactions. For example, the S1 Ford Anglia I built is like a small boat in big seas. Fixed that up with a few sway bars. I could feel the difference immediately. You know you have bottomed out because the shaking rattles the house. You know when you have topped out because wheel says, "This contact has broken," then the safe warm feeling of control returns. I enjoy a good wheel.
@patrick247two couldn't agree more. Using a wheel changes how you drive entirely. When I made the switch myself (even with just a belt-driven FFB wheel), I ended up changing how I did things because it became less of a situation where I go on what I see and the vibration feedback from the controller... And more of what I am feeling on the wheel. I could also save a lot of time with tuning because of going off of what I am feeling, it allowed me to hone in on and only focus on resolving specific issues. I went from taking anywhere between 1.5-3HRs for a setup to 20-30 mins Having a wheel is a game-changer👌🏼
in step 2 when you climbed that hill,you said ~70% was bad,but after that you said that we should aim to not get 100% ,so what % of compression is preferable?
It's not that 70% is bad, it's just not enough in my opinion. Yes, 100% compression would be bad because that would be the limit and you would be bottoming out. I like to aim around the 85% mark for my range of movement (applies to both compression and stretching).
@@racingreaperofficial yesterday I tuned my M3 E46 step by step with this guide ,when I was in process in doing it ,it felt questionable - car felt very stiff ,didn't turn as much as I would have liked ,but after I finished ,j jumped into multiplayer races and it was kinda amazing ,very usefull guide ,thanks you alot 🙏
@xfreaker9694 ok so I'm going to advise against that. The purpose of this guide was to teach you how to tailor the car your taste. You can keep tuning exactly as per the guide but I was showing everything so that you know what to change in order to tailor the car to your preferences. Your own drivability with the car is the key☝🏼
So your next step now must be to analyze the behaviour of the car and then make a decision on what to change to rectify the behaviour more to your liking... See like if you are getting understeer on corner entry or you braking and the tail is coming out... Try to fix the symptoms you don't like and refine the tune 👌🏼💯
@@racingreaperofficial yeah eventually I might be good enough to tune cars for my liking ,for now I'm trying to remove something that I don't like ,my next goal is to tune some AWD cars ,every one of awd cars I tried to tune is so ass ,it just don't turn,oversteer and understeet at the same time ,stuff like that ,but I'm pretty sure your videos is gonna help me with that too 😁
Very interesting so you WANT more of the white bar to fill up? Also the inside is the right hand graphic? I think I’m grasping more info. more than I have from most sources for Road Racing
You don't just want the white bar to fill up. You gotta judge it based on the situation you driving through and just remember that your suspension controls the weight of the car and how that weight moves around. You want the outside of your car to compress the suspension as much as possible (white bar filled up) while the inside of your car must decompress/stretch as much as possible. It's easier to just look at the outside though to check the compression and see no bottoming out is happening but at some point, check the inside to make sure that it's not stretching out to the max because this would mean your inside wheel is potentially coming off the ground. This is controlled by Ride height and this will lead you on to set the Spring rates correctly. These two steps will help you get the front/rear weight shifting in order so better launch and braking. Your damping will come next and you want to dial this in to get the weight to shift around quickly and make the car feel more responsive. Finally, your ARBs will be the last thing you tune for this and it will help you get the right turn-in Vs side to side weight shifting.
Not a problem Sir✌🏼. To answer your question, my methods for tuning are to work with a set of parts that work together and then the next set and the next until all the settings have been dialled in. So with that said; suspension tuning as you've seen in the video is one set of parts that are meant to work together, camber would not affect the way the weight of the car shifts around but rather play off how the weight shifts around. Funny you should ask about it actually because the video I'm working on currently is the next step in the tuning process which is Tyre Pressure and Alignment Tuning. A spoiler I will give for now is that Camber along with Castor and thereafter setting the tyre pressures correctly is what should be used to control the contact patch of the tyre to the ground along with how the tyre reacts to different situations. That's all I can really say for now otherwise this will turn into an essay😅
I can also tell you for now, I will explain how camber, castor, toe and tyre pressure changes affect the car and how these settings play off how the weight of the car shifts around👍🏼
@@racingreaperofficial Thanks. I will look forward to that video. One thing that bothers me (and I don't know if it's my mistake or yours); From what I understand there are two different ways in which a vehicle can bottom-out. The first is that the suspension can BO when it reaches its maximum allowed travel in either direction. The second is that the sprung mass of the car can contact the ground. In your video you seem to imply that when the springs are fully compressed the car is BOing on the ground but I don't think this is necessarily true. If the ride height is very high the body of the car may not ground even at full spring compression. Also, if the ride height is too low and the springs too soft then the car may contact the ground without reaching the full spring extension. I haven't found a fool-proof way of determining through telemetry when the second type of BOing (grounding) is occurring though. If I am mistaken then please do correct me!
You are actually of the right school of thought by saying that bottoming out is when the sprung mass of the car is gone low enough to scrape the ground. The thing is though; in Forza with the telemetry, it is only showing you suspension travel and the maximum range allowed with that. The pink line touching the top of the bar (the bar being fully pink) would be where the car is bottoming out/tyre scraping wheel arch (this is where you would adjust spring stiffness)/sprung mass touching ground (this is where you would normally be adjusting ride height but I don't think Forza allows the car to behave in this manner anymore, remember what used to happen with the insane top speeders from FH4 and how they used to scrape the ground when approaching the crazy top speeds). The opposite where there is no pink line and the bar is fully white would be where the springs have stretched too much and any more travel after this would mean that your wheel has lifted off the ground, this is referred to as lift-off and is not always avoidable especially in forza where we can drive flat out over some dips where the wheel has to come off the ground. With that said, you cannot determine between the two different types of a BO situation. You can only see the suspension travel. The only thing you can do is adjust to prevent a BO situation from happening. This is why I say the ride height is the first thing to adjust (sometimes by preference and some cars can really take the lowest setting because Forza doesn't allow BO by sprung mass touching the ground anymore because the physics won't allow it after what was happening in FH4) , then run the test and see if it can go lower and then adjust again until maximum suspension travel is happening without the pink bar touching the top i.e. bottoming out. Thereafter adjust spring stiffness (sometimes, even softness) to dial in just how much you want the springs to compress while still not letting the car bottom out and you should be good to go. Unfortunately, not every real life scenario can be "ported" into the game and we cannot have that situation where the sprung mass touches the ground because of the physics. Would have been cool though because then we would have really had a reason to set the perfect ride height and perhaps they would have had to create another telemetry menu for suspension to indicate ground clearance... Alas, this is Forza and this telemetry menu has been the same if I remember correctly since FH3.
![Forza Horizon 5 : Gear Ratios & Aero Tuning (Beginners Guide/Tutorial)[Part 9]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/lZ1rt-4dRLc/mqdefault.jpg)
If anybody has any questions; feel free to ask here or on my discord server (link in desc). I hope all of you enjoy this video and find it informative and helpful.
Useful info. Thank you bro.😎
Here to help my dude✌🏼👍🏼
This is a great guide, far better than anything I've found anywhere else on the topic, I couldn't drive half the front engine cars in S1 without using aero until I saw this, thanks for the video 👌
@YoJimbo I'm glad to hear that it helped. I hope you enjoy what's coming next (gearbox and aero tuning)
Cant understand with that loud music in background.
Great Info brother!!
I have a question for you, do you have a wheel? and if so do you feel a difference between controller and wheel
and can you break it down if so?
I enjoy the content subbed!
Suave my dude✌🏼Firstly, thanks for the sub👍🏼 Secondly, I do have a wheel (Logitech Driving Force GT) but unfortunately the pedals don't work properly anymore. In terms of there being a difference, there definitely is. Controllers have all the inputs you would need to give to the game all in one place but the downside to it is that it's cramped. For example, I have issues driving manual with clutch on a controller even though I tried changing the controls around and stuff, it just all feels unnatural but the plus side is that the inputs are quick and responsive. A steering wheel (there's two types here; a normal vibration spring wheel and a force feedback wheel, I will speak about a force feedback wheel) has a very natural feel when comparing it to driving a real car but it does take some getting used to and there is almost always some setup required to get it right according to your preference because you do need some strength to turn the wheel during tighter corners, faster corners, etc but when it comes to the wheel reacting the way a real car would, it's practically spot on. Especially these days with force feedback having been developed and advanced to the point where it is today. Plus, having the three pedal and H Shifter setup would definitely help with being more precise with your driving not to mention that the more range of control you have on the wheel (wheels generally have the option to go from 180 degrees to 900 degrees turning radius, some I've seen go a little bit more) gives you more accurate control of the car when going through a track and picking your line down to the very last inch/cm that you want the car to go on but this is a double edged sword because you have to turn the wheel quickly to match the pace of the car or you could use a reduced turning radius on the wheel (when my wheel last worked, I was using a turning radius of 500 degrees and I mainly used it for drifting, force feedback made it especially fun) so in the end, there are differences and there are pros and cons. If you looking to get one, there are so many nice options out there at the moment and some of them are even budget options like the T128 or T248 from thrust master and recently I say some PXN V10 wheel, I think it's fairly new but reviews say that these wheels are good but I'd like to see a long term review and double check it the components used in the wheel withstand the test of time and the thrashing that wheels get put through with the way they are used. Don't forget to join the discord (link in my videos' descriptions) so you can stay up to date with upcoming videos and streams and perhaps even join in on the fun😬👍🏼✌🏼
Oh and currently I am using a Turtle Beach Recon Controller. Very good controller because it has like an amp built into it with audio controls integrated on the controller (more tailored to FPS games) and the layout and feel is very similar to the current XBox controller. Will never buy an Xbox controller again, comes with a 6 month warranty and I bought one that went in for repairs like 5 times and each time it came back, it didn't work. It had something called stick drift. The right stick (in my case) was giving input that I am pushing the stick to the right so everytime I used it, it would pan the camera over to the side of the car and... Well, it's unusable lol hence I recommend the Turtle Beach Recon Controller, about the same price as the Xbox controller but with a better warranty, more features and it's lasting (I tried PDP and Power A controllers as budget options and on day one, the stopped working after about an hour of gameplay)
All the tips and tricks Mr. RacingReaper describes here improve the handling of the car, and will up show in faster speeds, quicker times, and fewer crashes, no matter what your input device is.
When you use a modern wheel (Moza R5 myself) you get to feel the changes you make in settings through the different wheel reactions. For example, the S1 Ford Anglia I built is like a small boat in big seas. Fixed that up with a few sway bars. I could feel the difference immediately.
You know you have bottomed out because the shaking rattles the house. You know when you have topped out because wheel says, "This contact has broken," then the safe warm feeling of control returns.
I enjoy a good wheel.
@patrick247two couldn't agree more. Using a wheel changes how you drive entirely. When I made the switch myself (even with just a belt-driven FFB wheel), I ended up changing how I did things because it became less of a situation where I go on what I see and the vibration feedback from the controller... And more of what I am feeling on the wheel. I could also save a lot of time with tuning because of going off of what I am feeling, it allowed me to hone in on and only focus on resolving specific issues. I went from taking anywhere between 1.5-3HRs for a setup to 20-30 mins
Having a wheel is a game-changer👌🏼
Great video
Thank you for the new insights.
Cool cool man👍🏼hope it helps✌🏼
in step 2 when you climbed that hill,you said ~70% was bad,but after that you said that we should aim to not get 100% ,so what % of compression is preferable?
It's not that 70% is bad, it's just not enough in my opinion. Yes, 100% compression would be bad because that would be the limit and you would be bottoming out. I like to aim around the 85% mark for my range of movement (applies to both compression and stretching).
@@racingreaperofficial yesterday I tuned my M3 E46 step by step with this guide ,when I was in process in doing it ,it felt questionable - car felt very stiff ,didn't turn as much as I would have liked ,but after I finished ,j jumped into multiplayer races and it was kinda amazing ,very usefull guide ,thanks you alot 🙏
@xfreaker9694 ok so I'm going to advise against that. The purpose of this guide was to teach you how to tailor the car your taste. You can keep tuning exactly as per the guide but I was showing everything so that you know what to change in order to tailor the car to your preferences. Your own drivability with the car is the key☝🏼
So your next step now must be to analyze the behaviour of the car and then make a decision on what to change to rectify the behaviour more to your liking... See like if you are getting understeer on corner entry or you braking and the tail is coming out... Try to fix the symptoms you don't like and refine the tune 👌🏼💯
@@racingreaperofficial yeah eventually I might be good enough to tune cars for my liking ,for now I'm trying to remove something that I don't like ,my next goal is to tune some AWD cars ,every one of awd cars I tried to tune is so ass ,it just don't turn,oversteer and understeet at the same time ,stuff like that ,but I'm pretty sure your videos is gonna help me with that too 😁
Outstanding
Thank you sir, I hope you enjoyed it and I hope it helps
Very interesting so you WANT more of the white bar to fill up? Also the inside is the right hand graphic? I think I’m grasping more info. more than I have from most sources for Road Racing
You don't just want the white bar to fill up. You gotta judge it based on the situation you driving through and just remember that your suspension controls the weight of the car and how that weight moves around. You want the outside of your car to compress the suspension as much as possible (white bar filled up) while the inside of your car must decompress/stretch as much as possible. It's easier to just look at the outside though to check the compression and see no bottoming out is happening but at some point, check the inside to make sure that it's not stretching out to the max because this would mean your inside wheel is potentially coming off the ground. This is controlled by Ride height and this will lead you on to set the Spring rates correctly. These two steps will help you get the front/rear weight shifting in order so better launch and braking. Your damping will come next and you want to dial this in to get the weight to shift around quickly and make the car feel more responsive. Finally, your ARBs will be the last thing you tune for this and it will help you get the right turn-in Vs side to side weight shifting.
You deserve so many more views. Extremely competent and we’ll articulated TH-camr.
Thank you Sir. I am glad you think so and glad I could help out✌🏼
Thank you brother. Great video. Keep up the great work.
Thank you Sir, I will try my best😁👍🏼✌🏼
Great
video
Thanks. I'll try out your methods. I have been using the stadium circle to set up camber. Wondering why you didn't mention camber in this vid?
Not a problem Sir✌🏼. To answer your question, my methods for tuning are to work with a set of parts that work together and then the next set and the next until all the settings have been dialled in. So with that said; suspension tuning as you've seen in the video is one set of parts that are meant to work together, camber would not affect the way the weight of the car shifts around but rather play off how the weight shifts around. Funny you should ask about it actually because the video I'm working on currently is the next step in the tuning process which is Tyre Pressure and Alignment Tuning. A spoiler I will give for now is that Camber along with Castor and thereafter setting the tyre pressures correctly is what should be used to control the contact patch of the tyre to the ground along with how the tyre reacts to different situations. That's all I can really say for now otherwise this will turn into an essay😅
I can also tell you for now, I will explain how camber, castor, toe and tyre pressure changes affect the car and how these settings play off how the weight of the car shifts around👍🏼
@@racingreaperofficial Thanks. I will look forward to that video. One thing that bothers me (and I don't know if it's my mistake or yours); From what I understand there are two different ways in which a vehicle can bottom-out. The first is that the suspension can BO when it reaches its maximum allowed travel in either direction. The second is that the sprung mass of the car can contact the ground. In your video you seem to imply that when the springs are fully compressed the car is BOing on the ground but I don't think this is necessarily true. If the ride height is very high the body of the car may not ground even at full spring compression. Also, if the ride height is too low and the springs too soft then the car may contact the ground without reaching the full spring extension. I haven't found a fool-proof way of determining through telemetry when the second type of BOing (grounding) is occurring though. If I am mistaken then please do correct me!
You are actually of the right school of thought by saying that bottoming out is when the sprung mass of the car is gone low enough to scrape the ground. The thing is though; in Forza with the telemetry, it is only showing you suspension travel and the maximum range allowed with that. The pink line touching the top of the bar (the bar being fully pink) would be where the car is bottoming out/tyre scraping wheel arch (this is where you would adjust spring stiffness)/sprung mass touching ground (this is where you would normally be adjusting ride height but I don't think Forza allows the car to behave in this manner anymore, remember what used to happen with the insane top speeders from FH4 and how they used to scrape the ground when approaching the crazy top speeds). The opposite where there is no pink line and the bar is fully white would be where the springs have stretched too much and any more travel after this would mean that your wheel has lifted off the ground, this is referred to as lift-off and is not always avoidable especially in forza where we can drive flat out over some dips where the wheel has to come off the ground. With that said, you cannot determine between the two different types of a BO situation. You can only see the suspension travel. The only thing you can do is adjust to prevent a BO situation from happening. This is why I say the ride height is the first thing to adjust (sometimes by preference and some cars can really take the lowest setting because Forza doesn't allow BO by sprung mass touching the ground anymore because the physics won't allow it after what was happening in FH4) , then run the test and see if it can go lower and then adjust again until maximum suspension travel is happening without the pink bar touching the top i.e. bottoming out. Thereafter adjust spring stiffness (sometimes, even softness) to dial in just how much you want the springs to compress while still not letting the car bottom out and you should be good to go. Unfortunately, not every real life scenario can be "ported" into the game and we cannot have that situation where the sprung mass touches the ground because of the physics. Would have been cool though because then we would have really had a reason to set the perfect ride height and perhaps they would have had to create another telemetry menu for suspension to indicate ground clearance... Alas, this is Forza and this telemetry menu has been the same if I remember correctly since FH3.
@@racingreaperofficial Thanks for taking the time to explain that.
I love these videos man, keep it up
Thanks my dude✌🏼👍🏼
Great video!
Thanks man👍🏼✌🏼👊🏼Im glad you enjoyed it😁