Thank you for this video. Has a small fuel leak and needed to open my 128 up to put the spark plug boot back in the wire and after new Amazon carb needed a little more fuel to run on the high side
We had a similar warranty issue & explained to the manufacturer that if they send me the part (for a fridge) it's MUCH cheaper for them than if they have to pay for labor & parts. It took some work, but I convinced them and they sent me the part for free.
I fixed mine, cut 3/4 inch off square end of shaft that go's into clutch and 3/4 inch off lower end of tube, drilled the holes and notch, works good as new, 1hr work
@@Coakleyfixedit207 And it's still a POS. Just got my upper shaft, installed it and it worked for about 2 minutes and stopped turning the head again. No damage, just wont stay engaged. Looks like shortening the upper shaft about a half an inch is the only solution to get it to stay engaged and work like it is supposed to. Will not be buying another POS husky trimmer, that's for sure.
Great Video, I have a 128 LDX with the curve shaft edger attachment the blade does not turn. It looks like at the upper end of the curved tube where it connects is a black plastic piece that is instered in the tube where the flexible shaft connects. It seems the flex shaft is pressure fit into the black plastic piece and it is rounded off. Do you know if the flex shaft is replaceable?
You only have to remove 1 (ONE) screw to replace the shaft. Loosen housing screws, loosen 1 clamp screw then remove the 1 mounting screw. Slide old shaft out, slide new one in...replace the 1 screw and tighten the others...done. No fussing with throttle cable or wires. Never take the housing off to do this repair
If you only wanna loosen 1 of the screws that hold it in place sure... they dont always slide out that way than your fighting with it, feel free to upload a video doing it that way if you want
Hi, I have a Husqvarna trimmer, 128CD. Problem: trimmer head won’t turn, however throttle works just fine. The clutch drum over the clutch also looks fine...except for a plastic piece that connects the clutch drum to the driveshaft. The plastic piece is damaged and I suspect it got that way when the main shaft began to slip because of a loose screw. Oddly, I can not find that plastic piece on the machine diagram at the Husqvarna website. I assume that plastic piece is essential as the drive shaft seems to be too small to make the clutch drum turn on its own. Can you tell me where I can find a replacement for that plastic piece? Or on the other hand, should I just purchase a new universal clutch drum kit that appears to be built with its own metal connector piece?
Just came across your video, but everything works it’s just the handle arms ( not sure the term) but it keeps spinning from the main unit. What can I do to stop it from spinning
I assume you mean you have the "bicycle" style handles? If that's the case and they won't tighten all the way anymore or are stripped so they don't go tight you'll need to replace the worn parts, but a trick to get you by is to wrap the shaft where it mounts with a thick layer of heavy tin foil and put it back together this is not a permanent fix but can get you by for awhile
Can the old one be repaired? Is there a way to be sure you are getting the new version of the shaft assy? I think I'll try to disassemble the old shaft assy and see if I can add a spacer. If nothing else, it could be used as an extension shaft after installing the new one onto the powerhead.
Lifetime warranty on the part but not labor and you have to take it to an authorized place which charges you labor that cost double what the part does so you end up paying for the repair anyways.
We had a similar issue & explained to the manufacturer that if they send me the part (for a fridge) it's MUCH cheaper for them than if they have to pay for labor & parts. It took some work, but I convinced them.
Informative video, but the camera work is terrible…. Can’t see a lot of the crucial instructions …. Either not I’m the frame at all or the picture bouncing everywhere…. Started giving me motion sickness after about 90 sec
I just bought one of the yesterday and put some gas in it today and it didn't even last one minute, the head stopped turning, this pos is going back to Lowes
If you could please get a tripod or camera mount and not your forehead! Many of the critical actions occur off camera and the vertigo problem is not imaginary!
BTW, I saw a video where they only removed the two screws that hold the handle together & hold in the shaft & didn't disassemble the two halves of the handle. The shaft just slid through the whole handle assy. It saved having to re-engage the throttle cable into the trigger. th-cam.com/video/fLHASsdAAh8/w-d-xo.html&t=52
Different style handle, the one I did doesn't have the access hole to the screws holding the shaft in place, you can "repair" the old one but its a matter of time before it slides again the new shafts the sent have corrected the design flaw
@@Coakleyfixedit207 I'll have to look at mine again... I'm pretty sure I have the one in this video. I disassembled the handle when I was trying to figure out how it all works in there. I expected to see a broken spring which would push the drive shaft into place inside the tube - which, of course, isn't what's there. I didn't think I could get the shaft assy out w/o taking the handle apart, but when I saw that other video I though "Oh, I did more than I needed to". Looks like I needed to after all! I pulled the shaft out of the tube. I'm going to add a spacer to take up the slack (end play). I tried to use a Roll Pin, but it broke when I tried to spread it open (hardened steel). I'm going to have to cut a slot in a bushing & expand it, then crimp it back to size Not crimped to the shaft though). Not worth it for a professional to do a repair this way, but I like to try to fix things rather than scrap them.
See if your local dealer will get you the part since its a lifetime warranty on the shaft than you'll never have that issue again, some shops will do that because they still get paid for the repair from husqvarna without having to actually do the work themselves
@@Coakleyfixedit207 Thanks. I was able to get two 1/2"L x 1/4" ID collars, cut a groove, open them, put them on the shaft at the head end of the shaft to reduce endplay to about 1/16. It looks like you could remove the one screw through the shaft housing and loosen one of the clamp screws to slide the shaft out w/o taking the handle apart - but loosening only one clamp screw might not be enough to loosen the clamp (worth a try) That damn trigger/cable end assy is a horrible design. I think I should put it in with a dab pf hot melt glue - and the wires & throttle cable too. But I guess once is retrofit with the new shaft assy it won't need to be disassembled for awhile.
Thank you for this video. Has a small fuel leak and needed to open my 128 up to put the spark plug boot back in the wire and after new Amazon carb needed a little more fuel to run on the high side
We had a similar warranty issue & explained to the manufacturer that if they
send me the part (for a fridge) it's MUCH cheaper for them than if they
have to pay for labor & parts. It took some work, but I convinced
them and they sent me the part for free.
I fixed mine, cut 3/4 inch off square end of shaft that go's into clutch and 3/4 inch off lower end of tube, drilled the holes and notch, works good as new, 1hr work
That's one way to do it lol we had to do something Similar to make a trimmer work for a customer that's a little person
@@Coakleyfixedit207 3/4 inch didn't make much different
What are the size screws used I lost the one in middle 😅.. or are they all the same ?
Great video little problem with the audio at first
the part # you said was 545006072 the paper you took off said 545006074 which is correct ? thanks
Both are correct the 74 number is the superceded number to the 72
@@Coakleyfixedit207 And it's still a POS. Just got my upper shaft, installed it and it worked for about 2 minutes and stopped turning the head again. No damage, just wont stay engaged. Looks like shortening the upper shaft about a half an inch is the only solution to get it to stay engaged and work like it is supposed to. Will not be buying another POS husky trimmer, that's for sure.
@@NoneYaBiz5 I'll only personally use an echo trimmer both stihl and husqvarna equivalent are plastic and cat food cans
Thank you for the Video!!
Great Video,
I have a 128 LDX with the curve shaft edger attachment the blade does not turn. It looks like at the upper end of the curved tube where it connects is a black plastic piece that is instered in the tube where the flexible shaft connects. It seems the flex shaft is pressure fit into the black plastic piece and it is rounded off. Do you know if the flex shaft is replaceable?
It should be, you'd have to figure out the model number or product ID of the attachment and get the part from there
You only have to remove 1 (ONE) screw to replace the shaft. Loosen housing screws, loosen 1 clamp screw then remove the 1 mounting screw. Slide old shaft out, slide new one in...replace the 1 screw and tighten the others...done. No fussing with throttle cable or wires. Never take the housing off to do this repair
If you only wanna loosen 1 of the screws that hold it in place sure... they dont always slide out that way than your fighting with it, feel free to upload a video doing it that way if you want
@@Coakleyfixedit207 works every time, simple as pie. Never had one not come out.
My vertigo is out of control after trying to watch this video.
Do some epley maneuvers
@@Coakleyfixedit207 if you are going to post a video. Make it where people can actually watch it
Yes!! My 128lx shaft is broke after les than one he service!
Hi, I have a Husqvarna trimmer, 128CD. Problem: trimmer head won’t turn, however throttle works just fine.
The clutch drum over the clutch also looks fine...except for a plastic piece that connects the clutch drum to the driveshaft. The plastic piece is damaged and I suspect it got that way when the main shaft began to slip because of a loose screw. Oddly, I can not find that plastic piece on the machine diagram at the Husqvarna website. I assume that plastic piece is essential as the drive shaft seems to be too small to make the clutch drum turn on its own.
Can you tell me where I can find a replacement for that plastic piece? Or on the other hand, should I just purchase a new universal clutch drum kit that appears to be built with its own metal connector piece?
Replace it with the updated metal part, they dont make the plastic ones anymore cause they break
Just came across your video, but everything works it’s just the handle arms ( not sure the term) but it keeps spinning from the main unit. What can I do to stop it from spinning
I assume you mean you have the "bicycle" style handles? If that's the case and they won't tighten all the way anymore or are stripped so they don't go tight you'll need to replace the worn parts, but a trick to get you by is to wrap the shaft where it mounts with a thick layer of heavy tin foil and put it back together this is not a permanent fix but can get you by for awhile
I have exactly same problem on my 128ldx, will warranty work?
I really wish I would’ve seen this before. I took everything apart and all my roller bearing pieces fell out.
It happens bud
Can the old one be repaired?
Is there a way to be sure you are getting the new version of the shaft assy?
I think I'll try to disassemble the old shaft assy and see if I can add a spacer. If nothing else, it could be used as an extension shaft after installing the new one onto the powerhead.
How do I order or get replacement shaft for 128lx trimmer?
Any local husqvarna dealer should be able to order it, or eBay/ Amazon is also a good spot for parts
Did you contact Husqvarna directly to get your replacement part under warranty or the place where you bought it?
You can get the work taken care of at any servicing dealer you just need your original sales receipt
Just did this repair and my head still won't spin. Any ideas? Guessing something on the engine side.
Sometimes when the shafts slide out they strip the clutch drum
Lifetime warranty on the part but not labor and you have to take it to an authorized place which charges you labor that cost double what the part does so you end up paying for the repair anyways.
Suppose that depends on the honesty of your shop and labor rates in the area, husqvarna pays us a half hour labor for every shaft warranty we do
We had a similar issue & explained to the manufacturer that if they send me the part (for a fridge) it's MUCH cheaper for them than if they have to pay for labor & parts. It took some work, but I convinced them.
Informative video, but the camera work is terrible…. Can’t see a lot of the crucial instructions …. Either not I’m the frame at all or the picture bouncing everywhere…. Started giving me motion sickness after about 90 sec
Making me sea sick trying to follow
Quit moving your camera all over the place...it's making me dizzy.
I just bought one of the yesterday and put some gas in it today and it didn't even last one minute, the head stopped turning, this pos is going back to Lowes
They are not good trimmers
If you could please get a tripod or camera mount and not your forehead! Many of the critical actions occur off camera and the vertigo problem is not imaginary!
O
terrible videography
h,rhne
Cool story.
BTW, I saw a video where they only removed the two screws that hold the handle together & hold in the shaft & didn't disassemble the two halves of the handle.
The shaft just slid through the whole handle assy. It saved having to re-engage the throttle cable into the trigger.
th-cam.com/video/fLHASsdAAh8/w-d-xo.html&t=52
Different style handle, the one I did doesn't have the access hole to the screws holding the shaft in place, you can "repair" the old one but its a matter of time before it slides again the new shafts the sent have corrected the design flaw
@@Coakleyfixedit207 I'll have to look at mine again... I'm pretty sure I have the one in this video.
I disassembled the handle when I was trying to figure out how it all works in there.
I expected to see a broken spring which would push the drive shaft into place inside the tube -
which, of course, isn't what's there. I didn't think I could get the shaft assy out w/o taking the handle
apart, but when I saw that other video I though "Oh, I did more than I needed to".
Looks like I needed to after all!
I pulled the shaft out of the tube. I'm going to add a spacer to take up the slack (end play).
I tried to use a Roll Pin, but it broke when I tried to spread it open (hardened steel).
I'm going to have to cut a slot in a bushing & expand it, then crimp it back to size
Not crimped to the shaft though). Not worth it for a professional to do a repair this way,
but I like to try to fix things rather than scrap them.
See if your local dealer will get you the part since its a lifetime warranty on the shaft than you'll never have that issue again, some shops will do that because they still get paid for the repair from husqvarna without having to actually do the work themselves
@@Coakleyfixedit207 Thanks.
I was able to get two 1/2"L x 1/4" ID collars, cut a groove, open them, put them on the shaft at the head end of the shaft to reduce endplay to about 1/16.
It looks like you could remove the one screw through the shaft housing and loosen one of the clamp screws to slide the shaft out w/o taking the handle apart - but loosening only one clamp screw might not be enough to loosen the clamp (worth a try)
That damn trigger/cable end assy is a horrible design.
I think I should put it in with a dab pf hot melt glue - and the wires & throttle cable too.
But I guess once is retrofit with the new shaft assy it won't need to be disassembled for awhile.
And why would you use allen head & torx heads in the same assy? That's just lazy engineering decisions.