Nissan KA24E Oil Pump Install
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ต.ค. 2024
- How to install and properly time the oil pump and distributor on a 1989-1995 Nissan KA24E. #ka24e #oilpump #oilpumptiming
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So good to see more people sharing there experience with these D21s. I've been blown away by how great my d21 is. So simple and such strong design and parts. My trucks been "totaled" twice and has 267,000 miles, doesn't have any codes thrown, it starts on first crank every time and always gets me where I need to go.
With that said, the truck wouldn't be on the road still if it weren't for videos like this to show me how straight forward it is to do repairs.
Keep cranking out the videos man, thank you for sharing.
Does it matter to line msrks on the oil pump shaft and the one on a pump
Did a complete refresh of my engine and wasn't abble to make it run... recheck my distributor to find out it wasn't properly align! Took out the oil pump and did like in your video and it works just fine ! Really helpfull video man ! Thanks and I hope it helps other people too !
What about attempting this with the motor still in the truck?
Same applies.
Wow, best video dealing with the sohc. Thanks a lot.
Thank you!
The guys at Infamous are awesome! I had this exact same issue when changing my timing chain. WHAT A PAIN IN THE ASS that shaft was. I drove it for a few days running like poop until the guys at infamous let me know I stabbed the oil pump shaft one tooth off. Re-stabbed it the second time and got lucky! It been running good ever since (Summer 2015).
I put in some bosch 4 hole injectors and man, my little truck hauls ass. Love my little Nissan D21. Your a good man for this video. Much better than mine. lol
Thank you for a great video, very helpful 👍💯
I ended up here after struggling to find the same info for my D21 with single spark Z24 engine. I can confirm that everything is the same, but the rotor points to No.1 at roughly 10 o'clock instead of 4.
Thanks you for help.
Btw this only works if the engine is in the compression stroke for cylinder 1. If not, and you are in exhaust stroke for cylinder 1, when you move the crank 360° to the compression stroke then you will notice that the distributor will be aimed at spark plug number 4. Make sure you verify that it is in compression stroke. My brother just did this like 5 times and got the same results everytime until we realized it was 360° off.
Actually 180 degrees I'm thinking
Thanks for video. Have a 2000 ka24de. So, that may be the difference, but as far as I can tell, distributor needs to be around 11 o'clock. You mention 4 o'clock. Thoughts? I am all the way advanced, and timing is around 0° and I am 99% sure everything else is lined up as it is supposed to be.
Thanks!
The DE is a different beast entirely. I will have to hit the manual to get you any good info.
@@SuperchargedPathfinder yea, I did not have a chance to pull up the E fsm to check it's process, so it may definitely be different. Funny thing is motor idles perfectly fine (well I am getting a knock sensor code now, so will be working on that) but if I give it any gas up to like 3k rpms it's got little power, but if I stay in it, if I get it over 3k it starts to drive pretty well...
Could a person just remove the distributor and put a pair of vice grips on the end of the drive shaft so they could replace the gasket on the oil pump without having to retime it?
Never tried it. Sounds good on paper.
You can always tape up the rotor for it to not move
How ?
Put a strip of duct tape across the rotor and down across the sides of the distributor.
ok thank you it was doing same noise before a have the engine rebuilt , but the shop didn't replace the pump where i could get a new one for a resonable price and also a high performace distributor ? and thank you for the education on how to change the pump
I would visit www.rockauto.com for starts. Not sure on the high performance dist. though.
Have you had any problems with the pumps pumping after a rebuild on 1 of these? I just rebuilt 1 and can't get oil pressure now with a new pump or the old pump that work fine before rebuild
I assume you primed the pump before install?
@@SuperchargedPathfinder yes primed pumps have even put air pressure on the block to force oil up to the pump and still will not work
I wonder what condition the drive spindle is in. I had a viewer with a stripped spindle drive gear.
@@SuperchargedPathfinder it's new . We switched it out with old to it's the craziest thing I have run across in a long time. I can pull the oil sending unit and pressurize the block with air till oil comes out and start the engine and still nothing it's crazy I can spin pump buy hand and it works . I did change the o ring on the pickup too.
What are the pressure readings?
Use the cop of the. distributor too see the numbers. Then. Find the up ponit in the piston one ( the front one ) too put in back use a long nose pliyers. take the inside part in and out any times need too mach. Whit the distribuitor time. And use the mark in the pump. And you finish is. super ease .
Did you say we can replace the relief valve and springs ? Mine has almost no pressure after warm up . Or is it best to just replace the whole pump ? I have 60 PSI at startup and it tapers off to 5 - 10 PSI after warm up . This pump is about 10 years old .
Replace the pump.
Crank bearings are probably worn out
Possible and that is why the ka is a turd engine to me.
Thank you
Super. I have to do a 1998 3.3L Pathfinder oil pump and timing belt job. Something is leaking bad or pump just bad. This is likely nothing similar. But great class! 😆
Know of a good oil pump instructional for my 3.3L?
Take a look at the vg30 oil pump videos, similar procedure.
@@SuperchargedPathfinder Nissan or Toyota?
Nissan vg30 engines. Vg30e and vg30i.
@@SuperchargedPathfinder yeah can't find any of those either. Very lite I can find in any form about oil pump replacements and troubleshooting
th-cam.com/video/iT2athKOe0g/w-d-xo.html
DO NOT get Orileys (Clover Brand) timing kit. 3 months after installing I started getting chain slap again on start up. Runs great but after a day or so of sitting, the chain slaps like it did before the new chain kit. Sorry to blow up your comments,,,,just wanted to put that out their. Go Nissan OEM and save yourself the hassle of redoing your work in a couple months.
Or just deal with it on initial start up like I have been. lol Maybe should have changed my oil pump when I did the job, but no valve noise, so I am sure it is still good.
You might also want to get an adjustable timing chain tensioner. You can watch his videos at Mr1jim and order the part by email
@@thelonewolfesoldier what he said
Awesome video man, thank you
Is there a oring for the oil pump tube cause I put in a new oil pump with new gasket.and still getting oil dripping from one of my oil pump mounting bolts
Just a paper gasket between the pump and the front cover. No other gaskets or o rings there.
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IS THAT A COMMON PROBLEMS ON THOSE ENGINE , CAUSE I GOT MY ENGINE REBUILT AND WHEN IS COLD IT HAS A NOCK SOUND AND THE ENGINE OIL LIGHT IS ON FOR A 5 TO 8 SECONDS , IT LOOK LIKE THE PUMP IS WEAK ?
The ka seems to have chronic oiling problems. Not my favorite engine. I had a pump go bad and ended up replacing it. Then i had chronic rocker arm issues. I am just driving this one till it pops then i might go twin cam or sr or vg. Who knows?
Thank you for the awesome informative video Nismo D21! Quick question... My oil pump has oil seeping out of it pretty bad... Thinking about replacing gaskets on it and hoping for the best. Do you think it would help if I use painters tape and try to tape the hell out of the cap in distributor so it will not move before pulling oil pump?
Tim Cozad you can try it. You are still going to set the engine to top dead center on the first cylinder and Mark the rotor in case it moves on you.
So I’ve just installed a new timing chain guide and put everything back together and am having ignition timing problems which seems to be causing a no start situation. It a 1990 d21 2.4 we have spark, air, compression and are starting at Tdc would being off a tooth cause a no start? Thank you and Merry Christmas.
Merry Christmas, off a tooth no. It will run but it will lack power.
Can I loosen my oil pump pump just enough to get some silicone around the housing since my oil pump gasket is bad and causing oil to leak through the bolts
Maybe but be careful the spindle doesn't fall out of time.
If my pump moved from tdc when I put my distributor on will I have to reset my pump or just the distributor?
Both if the rotor isn't facing correctly after you installed it.
will a bad oil pump make a chatter noise? I did a timing chain job and everyththing was off for about 2 weeks and once everything was back together, i noticed a chatter around the pump and alternator. I marked everything so i dont believe the timing is off, and the idle is fine. Also, would the pump also prime itself?
Eventually the pump will prime on its own but it is recommended to hand prime the pump before install to limit wear.
@@SuperchargedPathfinder alright seems that i did that right. Would an oil pump making any concerning noises? Im getting a rattle around the oil pump that goes up with the rpms when i rev it
@@johnmate6199 sounds like tensioner is bad
Is there another video showing this being done with the motor still in the truck? Mine is a 2000 year model and my #1 is not at the "4 o'clock " position. More like 10:30 or 11. Just realized that this is a SOHC. I have a DOHC.
Dohc is different, close but different. After 1995 the rotor points in a different spot when set to tdc on the compression stroke.
@@SuperchargedPathfinder Yep. Thanks for the instructional video. Miraculously, I got it. Indexed to my #1 position and ready to stab the distributor. I'll comment later whether or not she fired up. This was a motor/out rebuild. I'm a novice with Imports. Give me a Chevy 350 or a Ford 302 and I could do those blindfolded.
No fire up. Seems the timing is way off.
@@SuperchargedPathfinder I have another "silly" question. If the balancer timing mark is on it's mark, is that definitely #1TDC on the compression stroke, or could I still be 180° out? My balancer is on #1 TDC yet my rotor points 180 out.
You could be 180 out yes.
Hey quick question. If i'm just replacing the pump, do i just slide the shaft back in and bolt on my new pump? I don't understand how the timing changes if you you're not removing the distributor.
If you slide the spindle in at the wrong angle then the distributor will move. There is only one correct way to engage the shaft to the bottom of the distributor. You won't have a good time trying to install the shaft first then the pump. Put the shaft in the pump then put the pump into the front cover.
@@SuperchargedPathfinder Hey, thanks for the reply. I just did this today on my 240sx. I used a peice of tape to hold the distributor in place after setting the timing to TDC. Your video was extremely helpful. Car runs perfect now and my oil pressure light is no longer on.
I just replace my oil pump, and when start to get normal temperature the oil pressure go down like 10psi, kinda looks the same as the old one mine it's a 84 720 and just change the oil last month still thick and clean,any way to get more psi?
At idle when warm they hover around 5 to 10 psi normally.
I'm replacing my oil pump gasket
Cause its leaking on the bolts
Do I need to use silicon or just set the paper gasket straight to the pump ?
Do you know what's the torque lb ft for oil pump bolts
Thanks for the video
Very helpful to do it yourself people
I use the paper gaskets, no silicone. Buy a bag of gaskets, they are cheap. Torque spec is 8 to 11 foot pounds.
This was my question thanks! the magnet idea is cool
Could you remove the oil pump with the engine on a stand rotated upside down allowing that shaft to be left in undisturbed? so you would be removing the oil pump upwards. Thanks for making these videos btw. fellow NY hardbody/240 vert owner
Yes. As long as the pump doesn't turn while it's out the engine.
Where about's in ny?
@@SuperchargedPathfinder western New York, just south of Buffalo. Where are you?
Is this an easy feat with the motor still in the truck?
Same applies.
If your rotor is pointing at #4, then you are on the exhaust stroke on cylinder #1. The cylinder fires on #1 on the compression stroke
That means you are 180° off.
@@SuperchargedPathfinder You are 180 out if your rotor is pointing at #4. The manual even says if it’s pointing at #4 then you are on the exhaust stroke
I don't think you heard what I said. #1 cylinder is where the rotor points at 4 o clock.
@@SuperchargedPathfinder yeah I noticed that we have different style distributors. Your number 1 is at 4:00 my number 1 is around 12:00. I watched your video again and realized what you were saying my bad lol
This is the hardest way to install the pump shaft and time the distributor. Put a dab of grease on the shaft where it rides inside the cover. Point the whole part of the half moon toward the front of the engine where the void part is on the back side. The flat face of the key should run straight across parallel to the front of the engine cover. Put the shaft in place and check to see if the present portion of the half moon is directly forward with the flat face straight up and down.. if it's not drop the shaft down and move it one tooth and put it back. Once you get the void part of the halfmoon to the back with the flat face going straight across.. wiggle the pump in place and install the distributor. It takes longer to read this comment than it does to time and install the pump.
Make your own video.
@@SuperchargedPathfinder I don't have a KA24E laying around to do so.. and I'm not trying to hit on your video man. If you got one laying around give the method I mentioned a shot, you'll see it works out a lot better. 🙂
Im done with KA engines and this channel so that is a no go.
@@SuperchargedPathfinder Got another channel? What else are you working on?
No new channels, just wrapping up my vg33er swapped wd21 Pathfinder pickup then going to enjoy my life.
ok thanks tomorrow I check.
Thanks
I have a 92 Nissan stanza with the same motor.
Where did you get your magnets at that you was using your video to keep your rotor button from moving when you had the bottom set to where you wanted at ?
I got them at www.runnings.com but Amazon should have them as well.
If the pump is installed incorrectly could it prevent the truck from starting?
yes, it can.
How can I take the oil pump out with the compression
What do you mean by compression?
Yeah but there's six slots what should they be lined up with?
I just changed my oil today and you know how when you loosen the filter and unscrew it oil starts leaking down like normal. This time no oil leaked out when removing filter. What’s that a sign of in you’re opinion? It’s a 94 ka24e
Could be a clogged filter or it drained back into the block.
Nismo D21 could the oil pump be going?
Do I still have to mess with the distributor, and timing if I am just replacing the oil pump? Is it not as simple as taking out the bolts and putting the new one in?
If the distributor turns at all while the pump is out you will need to reset the timing. Unless you are lucky you won't get the pump in correctly timed the first time. Took me almost 10 tries on a NapsZ24 once.
Okay. Thanks for the reply and input.
If the pump is installed incorrectly could it prevent the truck from starting?
Any idea where to get the washers/shims I have looked on Mcmaster Carr and Amazon and a few other places but it is difficult to get one just right especially without being able to check it with a gauge. Any thoughts?
I will ask my Datsun guru since he was the one who gave them to me.
I appreciate it man, if we can't find them I might just sand down a few pennies, they are right at 1/6th of an inch thick and about the right diameter. Do you think they would be a decent stand in. I want to use brass or copper if I can to prevent marring the interior surface unless it doesn't matter I guess.
Here's what I was told. Take a 1/4-20 lock washer and pound it flat. That is a Robello trick from the old Datsun days.
Where should the tick marks be on the crankshaft?
They will be on the crankshaft pulley.
The second tick mark from the left is 0*.
and that should be lined up with the needle looking thing right?
I have problems with the lubrication of oil since I take out the block cover turn on the oil bulb that can be?
No oil flow or just the light is on?
there is no oil flow
Did you have oil flow before you pulled the pump out?
Yes
Were you replacing the timing chain, is that why the motor was apart?
Take the disturber out much easier to a line the pump
As long as you are sure the pump is on the exact correct tooth after it slides in.
WELL AFTER HAVING OWNED THESE LIL TRUCK'S FUR YEARS I'VE FIGURED OUT SOME THINGS TO HELP
LIKE OIL PUMP REPLACEMENT SO HERES THA DEAL .
GET THE MOTOR ON #1 T D C MAKE SURE WHAT YOU GOT
THDN PULL THE TIMER OUT GET A TIGHT FITTING PIECE OF HOSE AND PUSH IT OVER THE SPLINED SHAFT PUT A PARIR OF VICE GRIPS ON TO HOLD IT FROM SLIDING DWN AND GO FOR IT IT'S TO EASY
Make a video.
i used small bungee cord to hold rotor.
I use a small bungee cord to hold my beer
@@hehunches good for you
I use DUCK tape to hold the rotor in place 😏
Interesting.. are you sure you aren't 180 out..? I'm sure you are 180 out 🤣
No
I see this is an old post but let me explain the easy,correct way to do this- remove the dist holdown nuts and pull it out slightly,take your distributor/oil pump shaft and stick it into the oil pump and line up the marks on the shaft to the mark on the oil pump housing and install the pump in the cover. The dist will only drop in 1 way so turn it till it drops in. Start engine and set ignition timing. This is procedure and it is very easy- no guessing!
Right....
@@SuperchargedPathfinder Right as in right or right ad in"relax,who cares when Im just going to cut the end off"?
How do u know this broski?
?