I learned a lesson about the blade bowing while milling a piece of Live oak last week. I usually use a 1” blade, but I happened to have a 3/8” blade on (due to a project I’m working on for my wife) and decided to see what would happen. It bowed so much it was a point of concern, lol, but I made it through it. I’ll finish my wife’s project before milling any more logs.Thanks for the explanation on the tension and slack created in the blade due to resistance of the wood. That painted a clear picture for me. I use a steel sled that we machined and fabricated for my bandsaw which allows me to mill up to 12” diameter by up to 27” long logs. It works great, but definitely requires the larger blade.
Thank you, I’m glad you found it helpful. Sorry you had to learn that one the hard way, I always hated to waste material after discover the blade had bowed internally. But as they say, we learn best from when things don’t go as planned. Which is pretty much behind every demonstration I’ve ever made a part of our Shop Night Live! 😎 Thanks for watching! 👍
I broke down an bought a bandsaw mill, figured besides being able to re-saw lumber to whatever thickness I needed I also am able to mill lumber from my land which mainly has red oak, beach, maple, ash, some iron wood and a few softwoods.
Thanks, I will check that out. It’s not all that obvious how that adjustment is possible after examining the fence. I guess the saying is true, when all else fails read the directions 😎
@@EpicWoodworking It is difficult to explain on words but as i see it you will change the angle of the fence by adjusting the fence plate. It should have the same effect as if you use wedges or shims.
I have a 14 inch Jet and I have been using a 3/4" resaw blade, but I think I might get better results from a 1/2" blade, mainly because I could get higher tension. I don't usually resaw to get real thin stock for veneering, but thinnish stock for small boxes, like 3/8 or 1/4. I processed of bunch of billets of split oak into ~2 x ~4 quarter-sawn boards about 32 inches long, and the 3/4 inch blade seemed to wander badly and flex in the cut. I think I need higher tension.
Yes Rick, there are a number of factors that can cause the blade to wander like that in addition to blade tension. The number of TPI should be as few as you can stand to reduce the stress in the blade during the cut, 1 - 3 TPI being ideal for resawing. Tim Coleman, who does a lot of nice resawing recommends using a Carbide bandsaw blade like the Lenox Woodmaster CT, 1” x 1.3 tpi. If your bandsaw is not large enough for that I would suggest using close to the max of what your saw can fit. Note, all the materials I’m talking about here are run through a drum sander to fine tune and smooth and thickness to dimension. Hope that helps! Tom
Love the videos, very educational in depth, knowledgeable but man I might have to get you all a gimbal stabilizer for the camera as I tend to be a little motion sick at the end. But I do tend to be more sensitive to movement then most so I’m sure it’s me then the cam work
Thank you Kyle, I really appreciate knowing how much you enjoy them. I know “the camera lady” is very aware of moving slowly so not to cause that kind of motion sickness. Sorry about that. Thank you, we’ll definitely keep it in mind! 👍👍😎
Hi Dario, It depends what type of sawing you’re interested in doing. A strong saw like that is more than likely ideal for resawing. I typically tuna 1” blade with few teeth per inch. I haven’t tried this particular blade yet for resawing, but it will be my next one…recommended by Tim Coleman (Timothycoleman.com) a maker for whom I have a lot of respect. It’s a Carbide bandsaw blade: Lenox Woodmaster CT, 1” x 1.3 tpi Hope that helps! 👍
Hi Tom. The Laguna DriftMaster fence is no longer available. I think Laguna stopped producing it 8 or more years ago. I use a shop made fence that I can clamp onto the bandsaw table and adjust for drift when resawing.
Hi, not Tom but the rule of thumb I've always worked to is that you want three teeth in contact with the wood at anyone time. For resawing unless I'm trying to make a very thin veneer cut I usually go with a 3 tpi or a 2-3 tpi varitooth design. A higher tpi might give a slightly better surface finish but unless you go very slowly it will struggle to efficiently remove the sawdust from the cut. If sawdust builds up the blade will wander and not cut in a straight line. Hope this helps
Hey Tom I bought a 510 last year and have been having problems with the tires. They had some bad batches I'm on the third set , tires keep wondering and coming off with blade! Do the tires on your machine fill the void between the shoulders of the wheels completely? Because every set I get they are about 3/16 shy and the tires wonder back and forth across wheel while tracking. Service suggested Glue and I don't think that is a solution could use your insight. thanks.
Hey Ken, I have never experienced the tires wandering and coming off. This video by a bandsaw specialist might help, he explains why tires come off. I think it is best to glue it to the wheel...I alway had to with mine but not sure how the Felder came, glued it not. Anyway, hope this helps and leads you to a good solution, Tom th-cam.com/video/CFZOlNsAgBU/w-d-xo.html
@@EpicWoodworking Felder tires are not glued, my question is on your saw do the tires completely fill the void between the shoulders on the wheel, that would stop it ( the tires) from wandering I would think.
Sure, that’s another option as well...Whatever works best with your particular bandsaw and for your situation 👍 I like having a quick connect aux fence now for resawing as I get the higher fence and drift correction in one quick attachment. Thanks!
Hello Tom and thanks for this great video. My panels would come right out of the bandsaw cupped. Is this normal or am I doing something wrong? Thanks again
It does happen as a result of the change in equilibrium of the material after freshly being cut, especially on the outer pieces since the moisture content difference is greatest after cutting the outer pieces. You need to allow for some movement, and “re-stabilizing” of the pieces before flattening and thicknessing to the desired new dimension. I do go into this later in the video. Thanks!
Just a guess, but I think your table is out of alignment. I had the same problem with my Rykon. After I adjusted the table, square to the blade the problem went away. Great session. THX!
Hi Tom, missed most of the show live, caught the tail end. Watching while I am typing. Will the Michigan Woodworking Guild be streamed to watch on Epic Woodworking, or is it private? How thin do you resaw for veneer sheets? Are 1 /8" sheets to thick to veneer? What is the best way to go thinner then a 1/8", possible 1 /16". Finished watching this session, great information and lessen on resawing boards, your the best. Thank you see you next week on SNL.
Thanks Steve. I think you probably found I talked about some of your questions later in the episode. Regarding the Michigan Guild, that is a private presentation for their guild but if you go to their website you can ask and find out how you might be a part of it. Thanks again! Tom
Hey, Tom. As for adjusting the bandsaw for drift, check out this excellent video from Micheal Fortune via Fine Woodworking. His explanation and demonstration are simple, thorough, and rarely discussed. Here is the link: th-cam.com/video/vNdrkmx6ehI/w-d-xo.html
That’s another possibility although not an easy alteration on the Felder 510. But that’s a great idea if it works well for your bandsaw...almost like rotating the table a bit. For my needs the quick connect, drift adjusted, aux higher fence is working well...for now 😎 , Thanks!
It’s possible to skip to the parts you’re interested it by tapping on the right lower portion of the picture if you have a touch screen. Give it a try.
These videos are recorded as a livestream with on average 350-400 people watching live so they are more personal/conversational than the typical edited straight to the point video. I get what you’re saying. No worries if you feel that way, it’s free content, and there are lots of other videos out there you’ll probably like.
I still don't know how is possible this content isn't much more popular.
Yes, me too!😎, actually I think it requires me being consistent over an extended period of time. Thank you for believing!!
I learned a lesson about the blade bowing while milling a piece of Live oak last week. I usually use a 1” blade, but I happened to have a 3/8” blade on (due to a project I’m working on for my wife) and decided to see what would happen. It bowed so much it was a point of concern, lol, but I made it through it. I’ll finish my wife’s project before milling any more logs.Thanks for the explanation on the tension and slack created in the blade due to resistance of the wood. That painted a clear picture for me. I use a steel sled that we machined and fabricated for my bandsaw which allows me to mill up to 12” diameter by up to 27” long logs. It works great, but definitely requires the larger blade.
Thank you, I’m glad you found it helpful. Sorry you had to learn that one the hard way, I always hated to waste material after discover the blade had bowed internally. But as they say, we learn best from when things don’t go as planned. Which is pretty much behind every demonstration I’ve ever made a part of our Shop Night Live! 😎 Thanks for watching! 👍
@@EpicWoodworking Thankfully, I have an almost endless supply of Live oak logs.
I broke down an bought a bandsaw mill, figured besides being able to re-saw lumber to whatever thickness I needed I also am able to mill lumber from my land which mainly has red oak, beach, maple, ash, some iron wood and a few softwoods.
Yes, I imagine you will enjoy having it. Almost like treasure hunting at times for me and I don’t own a bandsaw mill…yet 😎
Expert insight on wood movement especially useful. Thanks
I’ve tried them all. The wood slicer from Highland WW is fantastic and not all that expensive. I guarantee if you try it you will be converted.
Okay, sounds like great advice, thanks, I’ll have to try one out! 👍
Amazing insight.. Love it!
Hey Tom, watched a couple videos and really like the content. New sub here for sure!
Thank you so much Phil! 👍😎
Another great episode. Thanks.
Thanks Jerry!👍
You can set the fence plate to adjust för drift. Look at page 30 in the manual under "direktion of cut and parallelism".
Thanks, I will check that out. It’s not all that obvious how that adjustment is possible after examining the fence. I guess the saying is true, when all else fails read the directions 😎
@@EpicWoodworking It is difficult to explain on words but as i see it you will change the angle of the fence by adjusting the fence plate. It should have the same effect as if you use wedges or shims.
Did shop night live and happy hour converge…. They did at my house.
That sounds like it was a good thing, and thanks for watching happy!! 😎👍
Thanks Tom for the info it'll help
The fence on the Rikon 10-326 will adjust for drift angle.
Thanks. I wish that Rikon fence could somehow help my situation with the non adjustable fence on the Felder FB510 😎
I have a 14 inch Jet and I have been using a 3/4" resaw blade, but I think I might get better results from a 1/2" blade, mainly because I could get higher tension. I don't usually resaw to get real thin stock for veneering, but thinnish stock for small boxes, like 3/8 or 1/4. I processed of bunch of billets of split oak into ~2 x ~4 quarter-sawn boards about 32 inches long, and the 3/4 inch blade seemed to wander badly and flex in the cut. I think I need higher tension.
Yes Rick, there are a number of factors that can cause the blade to wander like that in addition to blade tension. The number of TPI should be as few as you can stand to reduce the stress in the blade during the cut, 1 - 3 TPI being ideal for resawing. Tim Coleman, who does a lot of nice resawing recommends using a Carbide bandsaw blade like the Lenox Woodmaster CT, 1” x 1.3 tpi. If your bandsaw is not large enough for that I would suggest using close to the max of what your saw can fit. Note, all the materials I’m talking about here are run through a drum sander to fine tune and smooth and thickness to dimension.
Hope that helps!
Tom
Love the videos, very educational in depth, knowledgeable but man I might have to get you all a gimbal stabilizer for the camera as I tend to be a little motion sick at the end. But I do tend to be more sensitive to movement then most so I’m sure it’s me then the cam work
Thank you Kyle, I really appreciate knowing how much you enjoy them. I know “the camera lady” is very aware of moving slowly so not to cause that kind of motion sickness. Sorry about that. Thank you, we’ll definitely keep it in mind! 👍👍😎
HI tom...for a bandsaw 3 hp motor ( Scheppach Basato 5-2) wich blde you recomend?
Hi Dario,
It depends what type of sawing you’re interested in doing. A strong saw like that is more than likely ideal for resawing. I typically tuna 1” blade with few teeth per inch. I haven’t tried this particular blade yet for resawing, but it will be my next one…recommended by Tim Coleman (Timothycoleman.com) a maker for whom I have a lot of respect. It’s a Carbide bandsaw blade:
Lenox Woodmaster CT, 1” x 1.3 tpi
Hope that helps! 👍
Hi Tom. The Laguna DriftMaster fence is no longer available. I think Laguna stopped producing it 8 or more years ago. I use a shop made fence that I can clamp onto the bandsaw table and adjust for drift when resawing.
Good to know, thanks Carl! 👍 I did the same with a shop made fence on my previous old 36” bandsaw since it never had a fence when I got it.
These two are a cute couple by the sounds of it
Hi Tom...wich tpi you recomend for resaw oak ? ...and 3/4 0r 1" wide blade? thanks for your videos! great ones
Hi, not Tom but the rule of thumb I've always worked to is that you want three teeth in contact with the wood at anyone time. For resawing unless I'm trying to make a very thin veneer cut I usually go with a 3 tpi or a 2-3 tpi varitooth design. A higher tpi might give a slightly better surface finish but unless you go very slowly it will struggle to efficiently remove the sawdust from the cut. If sawdust builds up the blade will wander and not cut in a straight line. Hope this helps
31:10 just look at the wattage and calculate a rough HP from that
Hey Tom I bought a 510 last year and have been having problems with the tires. They had some bad batches I'm on the third set , tires keep wondering and coming off with blade! Do the tires on your machine fill the void between the shoulders of the wheels completely? Because every set I get they are about 3/16 shy and the tires wonder back and forth across wheel while tracking. Service suggested Glue and I don't think that is a solution could use your insight. thanks.
Hey Ken,
I have never experienced the tires wandering and coming off. This video by a bandsaw specialist might help, he explains why tires come off. I think it is best to glue it to the wheel...I alway had to with mine but not sure how the Felder came, glued it not. Anyway, hope this helps and leads you to a good solution, Tom
th-cam.com/video/CFZOlNsAgBU/w-d-xo.html
@@EpicWoodworking Felder tires are not glued, my question is on your saw do the tires completely fill the void between the shoulders on the wheel, that would stop it ( the tires) from wandering I would think.
I talk to Alex at a couple of woodworking show bought some carter guides from him (14" delta) good guy very knowledgeable.
There is about 1/16” of metal wheel on either side of the tire on mine, and yes, my tires do sit fully inside the recess.
@@EpicWoodworking Thank you I will give service a call again.
"SPECIACAL Times" - Tom 2021
Take the fence off of the locking mechanism and clamp it to the table. I’ve seen Rob Cosman do this.
Sure, that’s another option as well...Whatever works best with your particular bandsaw and for your situation 👍 I like having a quick connect aux fence now for resawing as I get the higher fence and drift correction in one quick attachment. Thanks!
Hello Tom and thanks for this great video. My panels would come right out of the bandsaw cupped. Is this normal or am I doing something wrong? Thanks again
It does happen as a result of the change in equilibrium of the material after freshly being cut, especially on the outer pieces since the moisture content difference is greatest after cutting the outer pieces. You need to allow for some movement, and “re-stabilizing” of the pieces before flattening and thicknessing to the desired new dimension. I do go into this later in the video. Thanks!
@@EpicWoodworking thanks Tom. That's a relief. I will do as you advised. Wish you all the best.
Just a guess, but I think your table is out of alignment. I had the same problem with my Rykon. After I adjusted the table, square to the blade the problem went away. Great session. THX!
Thanks Jim! My table has alignment pins so I have to come up with a way to move and square it up 👍
Your bandsaw is 4HP per Felder's website.
Thanks Jeff!👍
Hi Tom, missed most of the show live, caught the tail end. Watching while I am typing. Will the Michigan Woodworking Guild be streamed to watch on Epic Woodworking, or is it private? How thin do you resaw for veneer sheets? Are 1 /8" sheets to thick to veneer? What is the best way to go thinner then a 1/8", possible 1 /16". Finished watching this session, great information and lessen on resawing boards, your the best. Thank you see you next week on SNL.
Thanks Steve. I think you probably found I talked about some of your questions later in the episode. Regarding the Michigan Guild, that is a private presentation for their guild but if you go to their website you can ask and find out how you might be a part of it.
Thanks again!
Tom
Hey, Tom. As for adjusting the bandsaw for drift, check out this excellent video from Micheal Fortune via Fine Woodworking. His explanation and demonstration are simple, thorough, and rarely discussed. Here is the link: th-cam.com/video/vNdrkmx6ehI/w-d-xo.html
Thanks Dan! Yes, I like Michael Fortune and I’ll check it out. 👍
4hp motor
Can you not adjust the your rails
That’s another possibility although not an easy alteration on the Felder 510. But that’s a great idea if it works well for your bandsaw...almost like rotating the table a bit. For my needs the quick connect, drift adjusted, aux higher fence is working well...for now 😎 , Thanks!
Can i suggest you get cracking? 2 minutes in havent learned anything. Much shorter intro, and leave the fluff and networking to the end, if at all.
It’s possible to skip to the parts you’re interested it by tapping on the right lower portion of the picture if you have a touch screen. Give it a try.
If you’re in a hurry you might be able to choose a higher playback speed.
Sorry to much BS get to the point
These videos are recorded as a livestream with on average 350-400 people watching live so they are more personal/conversational than the typical edited straight to the point video. I get what you’re saying. No worries if you feel that way, it’s free content, and there are lots of other videos out there you’ll probably like.