Hi Tom! Great session, thanks a lot! There's one aspect though that is omitted from every conversation on dovetails and hand-cut joinery in general: the perfection. Me and people I know are just obsessed with making them literally perfect and ideal. I don't know why, maybe because of all those glamour shots from magazines and books, but most people would be pretty sure that "big boys" hand cut joinery like that - with fit and finish surpassing a machine. And this obsessing can often be a real blocker, it haunts and taints. I think it would have helped many (it would have helped me for sure) if you could do a few close ups on your dovetails or mortises, and maybe commented on what are the acceptable tolerances in fine woodworking.
Thank you, great feedback! I will keep that in mind next time I’m showing dovetails. I try to show the precision possible right off the saw, but also include the fact that thee is a “healing factor” with small gaps after the glue up. Using softer woods, like white pine, is also more forgiving when you are getting the feel for it. Thanks again! 👍😎
Tom, Zona saw makes these really fine saw blades that fit in an exacto blade handle and I’m tellin you they are unbeatable for marking out dovetail pins.
Nice, thanks Rand, I will check them out! But I do prefer wider knife in order to feel it flat against the part I'm outlining, and a single sided bevel is key to accurate repeatable marking as well. Thanks again and thanks for watching!👍
Absolutely, the Richter’s are IMO the best economic chisels on the market. I were to recommend a set to any new wood worker, it would be the set of 4 or set of 6 Narex Richters. Then, if they chose to purchase some Veritas PMV-11 or Blue Spruce down the line, they still have a quality set that they can primary grind to 17° for softwoods. I personally have decided to stay with the Richters for my primary bench chisels, but did invest in a set of Blue Spruce dovetail chisels + fishtail, Veritas PMV-11 mortise chisels in 1/4, 5/16, & 3/8, and two different Blue Spruce Pairing Chisels 3/4 & 1-1/2. If I had decided to upgrade my bench chisels, I’d not have been able to afford the Blue Spruce gems I now have. I made the decision about the time that I went to +95% hand tool only. The Narex Richters are a fine steel, come pretty darn well finished and have a leather washer built into the ferrule/tang/handle union. They hold an edge long enough not to frustrate, but let the edge go just often enough to nudge to strop and get back at it. I wouldn’t waste my money on the Stanley Sweetheart’s; great chisels, but not worth the time it takes to get them into peak working condition. The Narex is the perfect balance of quality, fit, finish, performance, and price. Maybe someday I’ll get some PMV-11 chisels in 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 5/8, and 3/4, but it won’t be because the Richter are performing.
Well said Shannon, I would agree with all of that, although I haven't gotten to experience the Narex chisels. A few times when I was holding in shop classes we had students come with the Narex chisels and I was quite impressed for the money...a great set, better than the cheap Marples I started with! Thanks again👍
Use 4 o5 layers of yellow or blue tape on tales then scribe line remove cut tape on waste side, this gives you a small ledge to but up to the pin board to hold it on pin board scribe line.
Thanks, I know of a couple tape techniques and find they can be useful when beginning but not really needed and more time consuming once the feel for it is achieved, which doesn't take too long. Thanks for watching!👍
Hi Tom. Could you recommend a good quality dovetail saw? What brand you use? I’ve tried a couple different ones “relatively inexpensive” with less than stellar results. This show was really informative for cutting dovetails. I’ll be watching it again and again. I prefer the push style over the pull. Thanks Kevin
Thanks Kevin, yes, mine is a Lie Nielsen and I do like it a lot. I too prefer the western style, push stroke saws. Veritas makes a descent saw at a more economical price but the handle is not real wood, which I find nicer to have...maybe for the traditional look and feel. Recently, I did a Shop Night Live on the topic of getting the most our your saws which might provide you more helpful information. If you're interested here's the link th-cam.com/video/vyrl2vtpEw0/w-d-xo.html. Some other good saws out there I've heard about but not tried, and they are more expensive than the Lie Nielsen, are one made by Rob Cosman and another made by Bad Axe Saws. Hope that helps!👍
Yes, I know it seems that way but I assume each question is honestly asked and often coming from a place of newness to the craft, which makes them perfectly natural and not stupid at all. Thanks for watching!👍
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Great job
Thanks Terell! 😎👍
Hi Tom! Great session, thanks a lot! There's one aspect though that is omitted from every conversation on dovetails and hand-cut joinery in general: the perfection. Me and people I know are just obsessed with making them literally perfect and ideal. I don't know why, maybe because of all those glamour shots from magazines and books, but most people would be pretty sure that "big boys" hand cut joinery like that - with fit and finish surpassing a machine. And this obsessing can often be a real blocker, it haunts and taints. I think it would have helped many (it would have helped me for sure) if you could do a few close ups on your dovetails or mortises, and maybe commented on what are the acceptable tolerances in fine woodworking.
Thank you, great feedback! I will keep that in mind next time I’m showing dovetails. I try to show the precision possible right off the saw, but also include the fact that thee is a “healing factor” with small gaps after the glue up. Using softer woods, like white pine, is also more forgiving when you are getting the feel for it. Thanks again! 👍😎
Great demo as usual. Thanks everyone.
Thank you too and thanks for watching!
Loved the session, what craftsmanship. Thank you
Thank you, so glad you enjoyed it👍
Awesome series keep it up 👍🌺
Thank you! 👍😎
Thanks for a great show
Thanks Mike, I'm glad you enjoyed it!
Tom, Zona saw makes these really fine saw blades that fit in an exacto blade handle and I’m tellin you they are unbeatable for marking out dovetail pins.
Nice, thanks Rand, I will check them out! But I do prefer wider knife in order to feel it flat against the part I'm outlining, and a single sided bevel is key to accurate repeatable marking as well. Thanks again and thanks for watching!👍
FYI - there are 1/4" and 1/8" chisels available. I know for sure the Narex Richter chisel set has both.
Absolutely, the Richter’s are IMO the best economic chisels on the market. I were to recommend a set to any new wood worker, it would be the set of 4 or set of 6 Narex Richters. Then, if they chose to purchase some Veritas PMV-11 or Blue Spruce down the line, they still have a quality set that they can primary grind to 17° for softwoods. I personally have decided to stay with the Richters for my primary bench chisels, but did invest in a set of Blue Spruce dovetail chisels + fishtail, Veritas PMV-11 mortise chisels in 1/4, 5/16, & 3/8, and two different Blue Spruce Pairing Chisels 3/4 & 1-1/2. If I had decided to upgrade my bench chisels, I’d not have been able to afford the Blue Spruce gems I now have. I made the decision about the time that I went to +95% hand tool only. The Narex Richters are a fine steel, come pretty darn well finished and have a leather washer built into the ferrule/tang/handle union. They hold an edge long enough not to frustrate, but let the edge go just often enough to nudge to strop and get back at it. I wouldn’t waste my money on the Stanley Sweetheart’s; great chisels, but not worth the time it takes to get them into peak working condition. The Narex is the perfect balance of quality, fit, finish, performance, and price. Maybe someday I’ll get some PMV-11 chisels in 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 5/8, and 3/4, but it won’t be because the Richter are performing.
Thanks Bill, I do know of those chisels but was not aware they had a 1/8" size.👍
Well said Shannon, I would agree with all of that, although I haven't gotten to experience the Narex chisels. A few times when I was holding in shop classes we had students come with the Narex chisels and I was quite impressed for the money...a great set, better than the cheap Marples I started with! Thanks again👍
Use 4 o5 layers of yellow or blue tape on tales then scribe line remove cut tape on waste side, this gives you a small ledge to but up to the pin board to hold it on pin board scribe line.
Thanks, I know of a couple tape techniques and find they can be useful when beginning but not really needed and more time consuming once the feel for it is achieved, which doesn't take too long. Thanks for watching!👍
Hi Tom. Could you recommend a good quality dovetail saw? What brand you use? I’ve tried a couple different ones “relatively inexpensive” with less than stellar results. This show was really informative for cutting dovetails. I’ll be watching it again and again. I prefer the push style over the pull. Thanks Kevin
I rewatched and see yours is a Lie Nielsen
Thanks Kevin, yes, mine is a Lie Nielsen and I do like it a lot. I too prefer the western style, push stroke saws. Veritas makes a descent saw at a more economical price but the handle is not real wood, which I find nicer to have...maybe for the traditional look and feel. Recently, I did a Shop Night Live on the topic of getting the most our your saws which might provide you more helpful information. If you're interested here's the link th-cam.com/video/vyrl2vtpEw0/w-d-xo.html. Some other good saws out there I've heard about but not tried, and they are more expensive than the Lie Nielsen, are one made by Rob Cosman and another made by Bad Axe Saws. Hope that helps!👍
The questions some people ask are pretty stupid.
Yes, I know it seems that way but I assume each question is honestly asked and often coming from a place of newness to the craft, which makes them perfectly natural and not stupid at all. Thanks for watching!👍
Great job
Thanks Joe!