Another great educational vid. Pierre its more than likely your stainless carb caps that are leaking not your lid. Get yourself some more of those red plastic jobbies from KL & you should be able to hit 10psi
If I'm not mistaken, the ball lock (grey) connection on the pressure gauge should be black OR you should change the connection on the top of the fermzilla to a gas lock (two stripes)
I would suggest maybe throw in a hit before fermentation and then after fermentation has slowed throw in the extra 150g. Don't wait until fermentation has stopped, you don't want to add anymore oxygen.
What size is your cold crash refrigerator chamber? and does the Fermzilla with stand fit well inside of it Thanks much as I'm new with my new addition equipment :-)
I have a ALDI Sterking 239L upright refrigerator (STR-H239W), with dimensions of 1430(H) x 550(W) x 580(D)mm. It fits all fermenters that I have and works great when I am not ferenting
Hi Pierre, loving these videos. Just got into home brewing and have a question on pressure fermenting. How long did you brew normally before putting on the spunding valve? And did you put CO2 into the fermenter prior?
I add pressure straight away around 5 psi to set the spundy. I will let it ferment for a couple of days until it settles down and increase it to 15 - 20 psi depending on what I need in my style of beer for that brew. The idea is to let out the off flavours and aromas during the first part of fermentation. It's a bit the same when you dry hop.
Great video i like your videos, but a simple question, why not allign The same pressure In The bottom tank with The upper tank, and then transfer The Beer?
Hey. Question. I tried to dry hop like this video. I close off the value and emptied the yeast jar, cleaned it and added dry hops. I screwed it back on. Connected the CO2/gas connector with the black screw cap on the other side. Tightening the jar on snug (with lube). When I turned on the gas (5 psi) the firmzilla started filling up with bubbles (a lot) even though the value was still shut. I had it closed for 5 mins with no leaks. Why would this happen? Doesn't It the jar/container hold pressure? I was trying to purge out the oxygen before opening the value. But that didn't work. It started pushing air into the beer/firmzilla. Fermentation is still active. Hopefully I didn't cause oxidation off flavors. Any thoughts? Great videos btw
Hi I see what you are asking , When you closed the valve on the Fermzilla did it feel like it locked into position? You will find it will close well but not seal until you physically feel it lock in. It sounds like it was not closed properly abut was enough to stop the fluid from dripping out. but not enough to hold back the co2 pressure. When it comes to oxygenating your brew, if you intend to drink it in a short period of time I feel it doesn't affect it all that much. If you are storing it ? that is a different thing. I think because it was still fermenting you you are pretty safe. By the way, Thanks for watching my videos. Pierre
Thanks for you video! Very helpful! What would you do if you did a second dry hop? Would you just empty the bottom compartment (even though their might be active yeast in there?) and go through the process again or is there another way?
Hej, one question. I see a lot of yeast in the fermzilla. Did you ferment without the trub container prior to dry hopping? Or did you used and cleaned it before the video? I am starting a brew tomorrow and it is a small batch, so I am thinking, whether I will close the valve and attach the container after 4 or 5 days, once I start the dry hop
Hi Bjorn, yes I did ferment without the trub container! I did it purposely as it is not an issue to blow the hops through the yeast saving me a lot of time. It looks like a lot of yeast on the outside but after settling it turned out to be about a litre of trub including the added hops. The brew turned out awesome. Leave the valve open for at least until it has finished fermenting.
@@BestMeMotivation On this one, Yes. Sometimes I will just use an airlock! it really depends on what I am brewing and if I have any spare bits to do it.
No not at all but I do cold crash my beers before I do it. Cold crashing help settle the proteins and clears out the brew, I leave it in the fridge for a couple of day then close the valve to the trub bottle before I transfer it.
@@SimpleHomeBrew Thanks, the only problem I have is that the Fermzilla is 36” tall and my fermentation fridge is 32” tall lol I’ll be checking in to a tall fermentation chamber for sure
Given the tank was 5psi before adding the dry hops, couldn't you just pressurize the collection jar to slightly more than 5psi so that when you open the valve the dry hops would erupt into the chamber and mix around a bit? That way you could maintain pressure on the beer.
@@SimpleHomeBrew It's theoretical! I just got my fermzilla last week so this is what I was planning to do.. haven't tried it yet - will let you know how it goes next week.
Thank you, I thought that I should have done that but it worked out pretty good anyway. Please give me your thoughts on why I need to remove the yeast first. I have only one reason to remove it , being, the hops will settle with the yeast within a couple of hours. Well funny enough the yeast did return to the bottom and the hops rose to the top. Looking forward to hearing from you Pierre
Nice video! Had you previously dumped the trub or did you just dry hop while the trub was still in there and the hops will make their way into the beer like I saw in the video? It looked like there was trub, but I wasn't sure if it was just some stuck to the side of the fermenter.
Hi Jeff, i dry hopped with trub still in the fermenter it didn't seem to make a difference with the flavour. I wanted to keep oxygen levels at it's lowest and it work well.
You could actually recycle your co2 from the top in your fermenter to purge your dry hop chamber no extra c02 required
Brilliant! Very interesting watching how you did this without introducing any oxygen. Cheers mate
Thanks, the brew looks great but I feel it will taste bad as it's final gravety was 1.002.
Cheers Pierre.
😉
you have some very interesting contraptions my friend!
I love tech.
Another great educational vid. Pierre its more than likely your stainless carb caps that are leaking not your lid. Get yourself some more of those red plastic jobbies from KL & you should be able to hit 10psi
Thanks will do.
If I'm not mistaken, the ball lock (grey) connection on the pressure gauge should be black OR you should change the connection on the top of the fermzilla to a gas lock (two stripes)
You are correct in a normal situation but the ball locks used with the pressure system are universal fitting so you can interconnect.
On the Red KL brand it doesn't matter Gas or Beer
How do you do a double hop edition
I would suggest maybe throw in a hit before fermentation and then after fermentation has slowed throw in the extra 150g. Don't wait until fermentation has stopped, you don't want to add anymore oxygen.
What size is your cold crash refrigerator chamber? and does the Fermzilla with stand fit well inside of it Thanks much as I'm new with my new addition equipment :-)
I have a ALDI Sterking 239L upright refrigerator (STR-H239W), with dimensions of 1430(H) x 550(W) x 580(D)mm. It fits all fermenters that I have and works great when I am not ferenting
Hi Pierre, loving these videos. Just got into home brewing and have a question on pressure fermenting. How long did you brew normally before putting on the spunding valve? And did you put CO2 into the fermenter prior?
I add pressure straight away around 5 psi to set the spundy. I will let it ferment for a couple of days until it settles down and increase it to 15 - 20 psi depending on what I need in my style of beer for that brew. The idea is to let out the off flavours and aromas during the first part of fermentation. It's a bit the same when you dry hop.
Great video i like your videos, but a simple question, why not allign The same pressure In The bottom tank with The upper tank, and then transfer The Beer?
These days I add more pressure in the bottom vessel so the hops push up through the yeast bet. Works a treat
Hey. Question. I tried to dry hop like this video. I close off the value and emptied the yeast jar, cleaned it and added dry hops. I screwed it back on. Connected the CO2/gas connector with the black screw cap on the other side. Tightening the jar on snug (with lube). When I turned on the gas (5 psi) the firmzilla started filling up with bubbles (a lot) even though the value was still shut. I had it closed for 5 mins with no leaks. Why would this happen? Doesn't It the jar/container hold pressure? I was trying to purge out the oxygen before opening the value. But that didn't work. It started pushing air into the beer/firmzilla.
Fermentation is still active. Hopefully I didn't cause oxidation off flavors. Any thoughts? Great videos btw
Hi I see what you are asking , When you closed the valve on the Fermzilla did it feel like it locked into position? You will find it will close well but not seal until you physically feel it lock in. It sounds like it was not closed properly abut was enough to stop the fluid from dripping out. but not enough to hold back the co2 pressure. When it comes to oxygenating your brew, if you intend to drink it in a short period of time I feel it doesn't affect it all that much. If you are storing it ? that is a different thing. I think because it was still fermenting you you are pretty safe. By the way, Thanks for watching my videos. Pierre
@@SimpleHomeBrew thanks for responding. I will check that out. I should have tested all this stuff out with water 1st. Still getting used to it. Thx
Thanks for you video! Very helpful! What would you do if you did a second dry hop? Would you just empty the bottom compartment (even though their might be active yeast in there?) and go through the process again or is there another way?
If I had to do a second dry hop I would just let out the pressure and drop the hops in the top. No big deal. 😀
Great video, did you leave the valve open after dry hopping?
Hi Paul, Thanks for watching and yes I did leave the valve open as doing this allows me to catch almost all of my trube.
Hej, one question. I see a lot of yeast in the fermzilla. Did you ferment without the trub container prior to dry hopping? Or did you used and cleaned it before the video? I am starting a brew tomorrow and it is a small batch, so I am thinking, whether I will close the valve and attach the container after 4 or 5 days, once I start the dry hop
Hi Bjorn, yes I did ferment without the trub container! I did it purposely as it is not an issue to blow the hops through the yeast saving me a lot of time. It looks like a lot of yeast on the outside but after settling it turned out to be about a litre of trub including the added hops. The brew turned out awesome. Leave the valve open for at least until it has finished fermenting.
@@SimpleHomeBrew perfect thanks. Then I will try it as you did. I only do 11 litres, so losing 1 Liter is ok, 2x 1 would be too much. Cheers
Maybe another question 🤔 you do not use an airlock, right. Just the spunding valve
@@BestMeMotivation On this one, Yes. Sometimes I will just use an airlock! it really depends on what I am brewing and if I have any spare bits to do it.
Question! did you have any issues when transferring from the Fermzilla to your keg such as "plugged lines from the hops? this is what happened to me.
No not at all but I do cold crash my beers before I do it. Cold crashing help settle the proteins and clears out the brew, I leave it in the fridge for a couple of day then close the valve to the trub bottle before I transfer it.
@@SimpleHomeBrew
Thanks, the only problem I have is that the Fermzilla is 36” tall and my fermentation fridge is 32” tall lol
I’ll be checking in to a tall fermentation chamber for sure
Given the tank was 5psi before adding the dry hops, couldn't you just pressurize the collection jar to slightly more than 5psi so that when you open the valve the dry hops would erupt into the chamber and mix around a bit? That way you could maintain pressure on the beer.
I have not thought of that I will definitely be doing that for all my next videos. Thanks for the heads up
@@SimpleHomeBrew It's theoretical! I just got my fermzilla last week so this is what I was planning to do.. haven't tried it yet - will let you know how it goes next week.
Try spraying sanitizer around your lid just to be sure of any leaks.It could just be your ball lock connector.🍻
I turned out to be the ball lick connector. I did spray sanitizer all over the unit and had no bubbles yet it still lost pressure. Thanks Birdy Bro
Loosen up the lifting handles.If they are to thight , it will Warp the opening, causing the seal to NOT seal….
Thanks I will have look at that. Pierre😀
you need to purge the yeast before dry hopping!
Thank you, I thought that I should have done that but it worked out pretty good anyway. Please give me your thoughts on why I need to remove the yeast first. I have only one reason to remove it , being, the hops will settle with the yeast within a couple of hours. Well funny enough the yeast did return to the bottom and the hops rose to the top. Looking forward to hearing from you Pierre
Yes. PLease explain.
Nice video! Had you previously dumped the trub or did you just dry hop while the trub was still in there and the hops will make their way into the beer like I saw in the video? It looked like there was trub, but I wasn't sure if it was just some stuck to the side of the fermenter.
Hi Jeff, i dry hopped with trub still in the fermenter it didn't seem to make a difference with the flavour. I wanted to keep oxygen levels at it's lowest and it work well.