Cylinder head removal and rebuild 2013 Audi A4 2.0 TFSI
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 เม.ย. 2022
- How to remove the cylinder head and rebuild it on a 2013 Audi A4 Quattro 2.0TFSI with Torque specs and sequences.
Vw/ Audi Sealant is Loctite brand 5970
Cylinder Head, Valvetrain - 2.0L CAEB,
CPMA
Fastener Tightening Specifications
Component Nm
Balance shaft timing chain guide rail 20
Bearing bracket 1) 3) 9
20 plus an
additional 90°
(¼ turn)
Camshaft adjuster actuator 5
Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor 9
Camshaft timing chain guide rail guide pins 20
Chain tensioner 4) 9
Chain tensioner 2) 85
Control valve-to-camshaft housing 35
Cylinder head with wrench clearance 1) 5)
Tighten in 3 stages:
• Tighten to 40 Nm
• Tighten 90° further using a rigid wrench.
• Tighten 90° further using a rigid wrench.
Tighten in 2 stages:
• Tighten to 8 Nm
• Tighten 90° further using a rigid wrench.
Exhaust side balance shaft 1) 9
Heat shield 20
Intake side balance shaft 1) 9
Mounting plate 9
Oil dipstick guide tube-to-timing chain cover 9
Plug with ball head for the engine cover 5
Sealing plugs with ball head for the engine cover 9
Sealing plugs with ball head for the engine cover 5
Timing chain tensioning rail 20
Timing chain tensioning rail guide pins 20
Transport bracket 25
1) Replace fastener(s). 2) For bolt tightening clarification, refer to ElsaWeb, Balance Shaft Timing Chain
Overview, item 4. 3) For bolt tightening clarification, refer to ElsaWeb, Camshaft Timing Chain Overview,
items 5 and 7. 4) For bolt tightening clarification, refer to ElsaWeb, Camshaft Timing Chain Overview,
and item 2. 5) For bolt tightening clarification, refer to ElsaWeb, Cylinder Head Overview, with
Wrench Clearance“ items 4 and 6.
Component Nm
Adapter between connecting piece and high pressure
fuel line
40
Air duct-to-lock carrier 2
Cold start injector 10
E-Box cover 3.5
Engine Speed (RPM) sensor 4.5
Fuel pressure sensor 27
Fuel rail to intake manifold 10
Fuel supply line connectors 1) 40
Fuel supply line connection on the fuel rail 1) 40
Fuel supply line union nut 20
High pressure fuel line 27
High pressure fuel line to adapter 20
High pressure pump
First tighten the bolts diagonally hand-tight, then to 5 Nm
and then to 20 Nm.
20
Intake air temperature sensor 9
Intake manifold 9
Intake manifold support nut 10
Intake manifold support bolt 23
Knock Sensor (KS) 20
Oxygen Sensors (O2S) 55
Throttle valve control module 10
1) Replace fastener(s). - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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Awsome video, just from this i know what to do and feel confident about it. The people complaining about the video are the same ones that stare at you with that dumb look on thier face after you told them the a same thing 5 times in a row.
No matter what, there is always someone who would rather complain than tell us how they do it and how we can improve. Thanks for watching and commenting.
You have just helped me like you have no idea sir 🙌🏼🙌🏼!! Great work
Wow, thank you so much for watching, and thank you for leaving a positive comment. I'm so glad it helped.
Thanks Will Powered, Awesome video with great information. I'm grateful
Thanks for the comment, I hope it helped!! Thanks for watching!
Great video. Thanks.
Thanks for watching!!
I too think this is the best video on TH-cam for this purpose. I forgot what your face looked like until I saw it again in the final moments. I don't need to see the sunglasses you are wearing or how long your beard is - I just want the knowledge you are willing to share; and this one is loaded with great information.
I was wearing blue Volkswagen glasses in case you wanted to know. Thanks for the kind words. Doing the work is easy. Trying to film and show what is important is the harder part. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the visual, LOL So true about the hardest part being the filming and the editing. Most viewers have no idea how much time it takes. The trolls would wither away if they had to match the quality of a video such as this one. One of the aspects of this job that I have zero confidence with is installing the upper cam bridge(cam cover) with the solenoids in place and matching up the cam lobe positions. Any suggestions on where to go? @@willpoweredgarage969
Thank you for the excellent and thorough video and explanations! Much appreciated. I have the very same issue on our 2012 Q5 CAEB, so your video is very timely. Keep up the great work!
Thank you for watching. Im glad it was helpful, ive had it in the q for a while but only recently was able to edit it.
Nice!!!👍🏻
Thanks!
Thank you sir for taking the time out of your day to help us weekend mechanics tackle this type of job. Im hoping to tackle this same exact job on my engine from an 09 audi a4 and I will be referreing to this vid many times😅
Thank you for taking the time to let me know. It means a lot to me. I will forever be learning new things as the cars are always evolving, but having an outlet like TH-cam is very helpful for all of us to have a visual of how it is done. Good luck, and if you have any questions feel free to drop me a comment.
Best video on TH-cam that shows how to do a valve job on these engines ! Great job. I am the original owner of a 2015 S3 with 208,000 miles. I am going to rebuild the engine so I have a few questions. Some say lapping new valves into an old head is useless since the engine is cold. The theory is that regardless of how well the valves seat into the head, once the engine warms up the metals expand and you get a different fit. These same people believe cutting the valves is more effective. What are your thoughts on this ? I’ve seen factory assembly videos of these engines and nowhere do I see any lapping or cutting. I am also going to replace my pistons. Assuming the cylinder walls are fine I don’t plan on honing them. Again there are different schools of thought on this. The consensus is to NOT hone since these engines have a special coating on the cylinder walls. If the cylinder walls are scored or damaged - time for a new block. I’ve asked TWO buddies of mine these questions. One is a VW tech and the other is an Audi tech. Both said the same thing - at the dealership they ONLY replace what’s broken and don’t bother with honing or lapping / cutting valves. For MY car however I want to do a PROPER rebuild that’ll (hopefully) last me another 200,000 miles. I appreciate your time and thoughts. Stay well !
Well, That is one long question. Let me see if I can answer it as best as possible. So first off the Valves. The valve train is a simple, but complex system. It is very much dynamic. As the engine runs it opens the valve on a fulcrum. At the same time the valve is rotating in the head and around the seat. I does not close in the same place ( unless its bent or there is other damage). I mention this because I have seen brand new valves that seat in one position, but then you rotate the valve a bit and there is a gap. This usually occurred on much larger displacement engines though. Because of this you need to make sure the valve is not bent, the guides are in good shape and the valves are not worn. Lapping the valves removes a small amount of material from the seat and the valve and makes a perfect machine surface. Again, the valves need to be in good shape. Even if the valves and seats are cut they are lapped in to make sure they seat properly. Now, the other thing to watch out for is cutting or lapping is making the valve sit further in the seat. This then makes the stem come out further. If it is a lot the lifter can not take up the slack and could hang the valve open. When you cut a valve or seat you measure that amount and take that amount off of the valve tip. Are you still with me? lol
As for the pistons, If there is nothing wrong with them I would not see a reason to replace them. The piston does not contact the cylinder wall( yes the skirt a bit) the rings do. You must at least hone the cylinders if you replace the rings. Otherwise you will have an engine with little to no compression. The hone helps the rings seat to the cylinders. Hope this helps. One last thing, if the engine runs fine, why rebuild it. If anything maybe just a reseal?
Thanks for your thorough reply. I really appreciate it ! Here's my long story, lol. My engine is misfiring and i got a CEL. Remember it has over 200,000 miles and I'm the original owner. I have taken METICULOUS care of my car and changed out almost EVERY component, ie starter, alternator, turbo, water pump, etc. A warm compression test showed 180+ on all 4 cylinders. However a COLD compression test (car parked for 2 days) showed 120 on cylinder 2. Plus my car burned 1 liter of oil every 650 miles. Everything is pointing towards the piston rings, specifically the oil ring. Which is why i want to rebuild the engine including valves, pistons, bearings, etc. I've heard other people mention "lash" on the valves and state these engines "adjust" after new valves are put in. I didn't know the valves actually rotate during operation, that's interesting. Regarding honing for new pistons and rings i understand the concept. However there is something about Audi blocks, "alusil" i believe - a special coating where you are NOT supposed to re hone the cylinder walls. My VW and Audi tech buddies tell me for repair work they just "thrown in" new pistons and call it a day. They state they're not a machine shop, nor have the proper equipment to machine a block or head. They've stated they haven't had any "come backs", but perhaps the owners sell prior to any issues 😂
Thanks again for your insight. I'll post again once i am done with my rebuild !
dude, you are a boss for explaining this all in detail, and for creating editing and posting this video. really big thanks man@@willpoweredgarage969
Wow great video Will but honestly since you were recording the tear down of the head from the block I would have enjoyed to have seen that in real time.. let us FFwd videos.. you don’t need to, I have exact CAEB 2.0 in my ‘13 B8 and I bought it dirt cheap bc it tagged the valves.. I’ve never done a head rebuild but have a lot of experience.. I’m really excited about doing this myself as a fun project, i don’t need this car I will take my time.. i would have liked to have seen how you installed exhaust cam as that’s kinda tricky compared to the inlet cam.. but overall great video and as always your videos are very informative and detailed 👍🏻
First off thanks for watching and the comment. I get wanting to see everything real time. The problem would be a video that would be hours long. Unfortunately TH-cam does not like to promote videos like that. Rebuilding the cylinder heads is very simple. It's the complicating stuff Audi puts around the head that make it intimidating. The exhaust camshaft is not difficult to install. You just need to make sure the changeover lobe on the cam is in the default position ( smaller lift lobe). Audi does have a special tool that goes in place of the solenoids , but if you are careful you can use the solenoids to position it just the same. Good luck with the rebuild!
@@willpoweredgarage969 hey Will oh I wasn’t aware TH-cam would have issues with a long video.. ok I’m not saying I need to see everything but I love to watch the detailed stuff that the service manuals never provide I.e installation is the opposite of removal lol.. thanks for your input and I find everything that is critical is in your commentary.. really appreciate the videos you post
What brand valves are you using? Seems hard to find good valves these days.
Thanks for a great video!
Yes, There seam's to be a shortage on the valves as I had to buy them from 3 places. I have use TRW brand with great success. Thanks for watching and the comment.
please tell me the part number or name of the VW sealant that you recommend. Your video is very helpful and I'm not sure if you ever added that number. Thank You!
Loctite 5970 is the brand that VW uses. Thanks for watching.
Do you need to measure valve stem height on the old valves,to make new valves are the same height?
If you get quality valves you should not have any issue. You can measure them off the seat without a spring with a caliper or better yet a dial indicator if your concerned. I have never had an issue, i think since the lifter is hydraulic and the valves are set to zero lash. Thanks for watching.
What computer program is that you used near the end ? Does it show torque spec and everything else ?
It's Elsapro. You need to be a dealer tech to have access. It's the factory service manual by vehicle vin.
Superb video. As far as the tool you used to tap the spring out. What tool/kit would you recommend to do this job well? Lastly, The way you removed the head is very impressive. A lot easier to remove components with the head out. Going to be trying this method soon.
There are so many different types of tools to do this job, at least to remove the springs from the valves. Some or better than others. The tool I used to remove them is only good for removal and not to install, even though it is marketed as such. To install I use a traditional spring compressor. Need one with different cup sizes though since there is not a lot of room with the small springs. OTC makes a good one, Even places like FCP Euro and ECS tuning sell them.
Hey I had another question. Do the rocker arms / lifters simply pull out ? I have the service manual for my S3 and it shows a VERY complicated procedure for removing them, using a cylinder head holding tool to provide tension, compressed air, etc. I will be rebuilding my engine in a week or 2 once I get my parts. I’ll let you know how I make out. Thanks again !
Yes, The rockers and the lifters should just come right out once the cams are removed. Thanks for watching
how about the valve seat. after lapping the valve I realize is the exhaust valve seat that's actually leaking. Can't find any replacement part online.
If you can not lap the exhaust valve to seat properly you can cut the seat. It does require specialized tools though. You need to cut the seat and the valve so the length of the valve is correct. Might be worth taking it to a machine shop and have them service all the seats for you. Thanks for watching.
Had the exact same issue with a A4, B7 I’ve just bought. Do you know the part number for the Camshaft Carrier plate for this model?
Not off hand, but if you have a vin number, it's easy to get. I often use two websites for my audi and vw parts if time is not an issue. Fcp euro and ecs tuning. Can get part numbers from them as well with year make and model. Or even through a chat. Thanks for watching.
Appreciate the response mate
What’s the recommended grit for the compound ?
Great video
I usually use around a 180 grit compound. Hope this helps and thanks for the kind words and the comment.
Awesome..Nice tutorial. I am changing my failed turbo on my 2013 Q5 2.0 T. U have tips on that procedure? Im a decent shade-tree mechanic.
Take your time, a flex head ratchet is very useful to get to many bolts. Don't forget to take the turbo support bracket out.
valve lash clearances?
Are you asking for the spec? With hydraulic lifter/followers there is no adjustment. Also, if the valves are not cut, there is no need to adjust it. Just lapping the valves removes very little material.
Great video. I have audi a4 b7 2.0L turbo audi. It has 1900000 miles. It's burning oil like crazy. One litre every 200 miles. All four spark plugs wet with oil and carbon build up ( i have to clean plugs every two weeks). Do you think it's the valve stem seals or piston oil rings? Thank you.
Well if the plugs are that wet with oil I would assume rings. I would do a compression test and see where you are at. Id expect 150+ on a compression gauge. You can also get a bit of oil past the valve seals, especially with that mileage I would not be surprised to see the valve guides worn. Do you have any check engine lights? I ask because these engines are under high negative crankcase pressure. If the oil separator is bad it would run rough and throw a light. How is the turbo? When they fail with a bad oil seal it will blow oil through the system. Though I would expect a lot of smoke from the tailpipe as well. So with all that said, Sounds like you need to decide if its time for a new engine, or a rebuild. Hope this helps.
Thank you.
I see several codes. P0444, p0016, p000A. Car has no problem starting. But sometimes it hesitates as if misfiring for like a few seconds. And then a huge blue smoke cloud. Thanks for your help.
Total cost of repair was….?
Total cost was prob around $1100.00 parts and labor.
my audi is at 110,000 mi When should i replace my timing belt? I want to avoid this issue
100K miles. So, If I were you I would check it out. Are you the original owner? If so and it has never been replaced I would replace it to be safe! Thanks for watching!
No valve guide damage?
No, the valves usually bend only enough to not seal properly. The guides are fine. I have never seen a bad guide from this type of damage.
@@willpoweredgarage969 ok, i hope in my head too. My head is from 1.4 tsi, and i am not sure where is the damage. The chain jumped, rough idle, and OBD error correlaton camshaft and crank sensor. After change a new chain, click noise from valve cover. 2/3 inlet valves not move like others, but with a leak down test, i cant appreciate the leak....
Segunda parte
Yeah, I need to work on that. ITs pretty straight forward. Just make sure the surfaces are clean and dry, new gaskets and the engine is not at tdc if the cams are installed. Then torque the head down. After that I have a video that shows how to install the timing system. Thanks for watching.
why not at TDC when installing the head with cams in place. If the cams were positioned correctly for a TDC condition, wouldn't it be okay/essential to torque in this position? By the way, excellent video. My son's 170k mile B8 A4 lost the tensioner and it just doesn't pay to have a pro do the job but this is a great opportunity to transfer some skill and knowledge to him and my other son. Thanks to your video, we plan to do the valve job ourselves instead of using a machine shop. Main reason being my machinist is very good but would want EVERYTHING off the head and you went through the reasons why leaving the injectors in makes good $en$e. :)
I guess everyone has their own methods
That's really it, right. I try to show how I do it/learned it. Of course there are way better more precise methods to everything. Not everyone has the funds or equipment for it. Thanks for watching though. If you have any suggestions, please feel free to explain them. We are all here to learn.
So you got the head off before the cams wtf
They are designed that why. If you buy a complete head from vw or Audi, it comes with the cams installed, and all you need to do is bolt the head down. Thanks for watching.
Introduced....hahahah
Your*
I saw the thumbnail and had to...
Haha, thanks. Never been much for grammar or spelling. Now it bothers me, and I have to fix it.
All jokes aside thanks for the video, some great tips. Rebuilding my first 2.0 vw head and it helps.
Hello, is there any need to bleed the lifters before reinstallation. Just did a head and the valve train is quite noisy. Thankyou
Not really helpful. Just blurry images moving around. Need a step by step bolt removal & wiring removal procedure to be really helpful.
Sorry it did not help you, but that you for the feedback.
He should also change the video title to "cylinder head rebuilding for dummies"
@@willpoweredgarage969 don't mind those comments. The guys that don't buy service manuals, are usually the guys that complain about video content.
@paulkieffer1189 why don’t u do a better video?
Don’t mind these comments mate u did a great job, and very helpful!