Finished (loaded up) product does present very nicely. I can see lots of Christmas candy in these next month. Enjoyable video to watch.....thanks for posting.
when you are cut multi layer objects. you have the obtain to add, subtract, or adjust the depth of each layer. you might want cut the last layer really thin.
I haven’t seen a lot of x-carve videos, glad to see you made one. I have the updated x-carve and the same bit, I’ve been tempted to use it for flattening the wasteboard. Likely in the spring.
Let me know how that goes. I also was thinking of leveling the wasteboard using the router since I know I have a slight out of flat problem. So far, the out of flat just hasn't bothered me enough to solve it. Someday.
Craftsman David Dave, let me run a thought past you, I've also considered, removing the rails under the default waste board, replace it with two 1/2in met sheets, milled out so as to allow holes to be punched through it to be a vacuum table. Thus providing me with between 7/8th to 1 inch of extra travel depth. Now that's just a thought, not sure if I'll go through with it or not.
I enjoy your enthusiasm. Love the pull down table. I am just about to pull the trigger on a 1000 mm xcarve. I am experienced in multiple graphics programs, corel , PS, others, also in building computer and many other things, also in wood working for many years. I build guitars and want some shortcuts to production. I am experience in all kind of inlay and want that to speed up too. One suggestion perhaps, I know after trying many brands of router bits that all are not created equal, some are sharper than others, some made with better carbide. I have found katana bits are a reasonable cost and very very sharp and last very well. Whiteside bits are great but very $$$ . I consider house brands such as rockler and others to be not as good as these two. Over the years I must have tried bits from 20 different manufacturers. Some of the lesser bits are very slightly out of round also. In addition the speed of the bit as it grow bigger is a much bigger concern and slowing down the bit can help even if it burns, depending on how deep the burn is.
when you're doing your toolpaths, you can save a lot of time by delegating the work across multiple bits. particularly, you could use something big and clunky at a slower feed rate to clear the insides and come back around with a flat end for the vertical walls and stepped clearing, then stick a ball end in there for the fine work and slopes. it sounds like more work, but right now you're at 45 minutes for a single run with multiple steps of cleanup and detail - delegating it across 3 bits could bring you down to 30 minutes at the maximum. no manual cleanup aside from a light sanding at higher grit, then right to finish.
I see your point. If the large bit was only for roughing, I could speed up the feed rate because I don't care about the cut quality. Then, I could run one finish pass with a smaller bit that is less susceptible to cause machine deflection. I may have to try this!
Just as a matter of interest. How do your neighbours respond to the sound your power tools make? I keep my garage door closed as much as I can bui stiill afair bit of noise still gets out.
Can you explain the zero zero positioning you did for the bowls? I am new to CNC and didnt quite catch what you were doing. Maybe you have a link to a video or walk through on this? Thanks.... i guess Im gonna start learning V Carve too. Great...haha
Yes, I set the zero point in the software to be the top of the workpiece in the center of the tray. When I switched bits, the machine stayed still at the x & y zero point, but the new bit was a different length, so the z zero point had to be reset. I did this by manually jogging the machine to the z zero point and then clicking the button to reset z zero here.
This is why I went with the Shapeoko 3. I wish I saw your video before I bought it because I would have saved myself a lot of research hours.. I couldn't find anything where the vibration really came into play but this video and other videos showing the inability for X-Carve to cut into thick aluminium (which Shapeoko 3 can easily do at slow speeds with flawless accuracy). The issue with X-Carve vs Shapeoko is Shapeoko is very expensive in Europe, Shapeoko uses US steel so shipping from the US to Europe adds hundreds more dollars whereas X-Carve is all cheap lightweight Chinese parts so they can ship them anywhere in the world with ease.
I agree that the Shapeoko 3 looks like a much more rigid machine. Still I must admit, I've done some pretty cool stuff (not all on video) with X-carve. When I upgrade, I think it will be time to get the dream CNC machine in some type of pro version.
Try sticking an aluminum bar between the X axis extrusions (sandwich), it is not that hard or expensive and it helps a lot! Maybe you can also add a middle support on the Y axis with an aluminum bar aswell that act as the end plates (on Y) but in the midle, I did all that and you can see and hear the difference
Time and surface quality. I figured a push through the jointer was faster than CNC surface cutting. Also, I planed using the CNC once before and was disappointed with the swirl pattern it produced on the surface.
Set your tool paths so the final (finish) pass on the walls and bottom is a very light pass. Say your normal pass is 1/8th of an inch, make your final pass 1/32 or 1/64th.
I do not use the free software that came with X-Carve (called Easel), but yes, even the software package I use (V-Carve Pro) requires a separate g-code for each bit. You have to switch out the bit, re-zero the Z-axis, and then load the next g-code file.
What was the feed rate ... might be able to slow down to reduce chatter. i also noticed with my machine... the depth of the bit in the router would make it chatter also..
Maybe, but probably not. Some hardwoods are particularly prone to burning. Of the common North American hardwoods, cherry and maple burn much more easily than does walnut. It's not just the lighter color.
Yes. The explanation I've always heard is that fruit trees burn more easily (as you point out cherry and maple). This is because there is some sugar in the wood vs. non-fruit trees like oak, ash, or poplar.
Double stick is not the best hold down. Maybe if your spoil board wasn't mdf I would say yeah. You need to clamp that thing down. Or even just put some screws through the corner and screw we Down. Double stick has some small movements and doesn't hold down solid
Truthfully that router is not designed for that kind of bit. Even more so, in my experience a 1\4" shank with anything larger than 3\4" is a bad idea. Even using rail and style bits and taking shallow passes. If your FR is even slightly too high, you run risk of the shank breaking because the 1\4" shank is writing a check that it cant cash. It will break and break rather quickly. I would use a slightly higher HP router in that machine (requires larger spindle mounts) and then you can use 1\2" bits. The extra HP should power passed the chatter a bit.
Ive had my X-Carve for over 2yrs and i ONLY use 1/4" shank and have NEVER broken a bit. I use 1 1/4" & 1" V bits, 1/8"-1" end mills, and 1 1/2" surfacing bit. Also, the Dewalt 611 operates at 16,000 - 27,000 RPM's and is VERY capable of using 1/4" shank bits. Proper feed rates & depth of cuts provide me with nice clean cuts and NO chatter.
Well...things shouldnt happen but they do.....spilled glass of water...pop...slurpee..slushie...roof leak...all of thesecwould instantly destroy your mdf made machine....alum would be way better....structurally as well as resistant to water and most elements....plus when cutting alum you could water cool if bed was made of aluminum...you cant water cool with your mdf made machine
Finished (loaded up) product does present very nicely. I can see lots of Christmas candy in these next month.
Enjoyable video to watch.....thanks for posting.
Thank a lot! I will continue watching your videos.
when you are cut multi layer objects. you have the obtain to add, subtract, or adjust the depth of each layer. you might want cut the last layer really thin.
God bless you for editing the volume ...
I haven’t seen a lot of x-carve videos, glad to see you made one. I have the updated x-carve and the same bit, I’ve been tempted to use it for flattening the wasteboard. Likely in the spring.
Let me know how that goes. I also was thinking of leveling the wasteboard using the router since I know I have a slight out of flat problem. So far, the out of flat just hasn't bothered me enough to solve it. Someday.
Craftsman David Dave, let me run a thought past you, I've also considered, removing the rails under the default waste board, replace it with two 1/2in met sheets, milled out so as to allow holes to be punched through it to be a vacuum table. Thus providing me with between 7/8th to 1 inch of extra travel depth. Now that's just a thought, not sure if I'll go through with it or not.
you can always do a final finish pass where you dont take as much out or change direction for that pass.
If you haven't already tryed it. Gwizard is a lifesaver on Feeds & Speeds. Your chatter is avoidable with different speed settings.
I enjoy your enthusiasm. Love the pull down table. I am just about to pull the trigger on a 1000 mm xcarve. I am experienced in multiple graphics programs, corel , PS, others, also in building computer and many other things, also in wood working for many years. I build guitars and want some shortcuts to production. I am experience in all kind of inlay and want that to speed up too.
One suggestion perhaps, I know after trying many brands of router bits that all are not created equal, some are sharper than others, some made with better carbide. I have found katana bits are a reasonable cost and very very sharp and last very well. Whiteside bits are great but very $$$ . I consider house brands such as rockler and others to be not as good as these two. Over the years I must have tried bits from 20 different manufacturers. Some of the lesser bits are very slightly out of round also. In addition the speed of the bit as it grow bigger is a much bigger concern and slowing down the bit can help even if it burns, depending on how deep the burn is.
i wonder if you made more passes by not taking off as much if that would help with the chattering and burning
when you're doing your toolpaths, you can save a lot of time by delegating the work across multiple bits. particularly, you could use something big and clunky at a slower feed rate to clear the insides and come back around with a flat end for the vertical walls and stepped clearing, then stick a ball end in there for the fine work and slopes. it sounds like more work, but right now you're at 45 minutes for a single run with multiple steps of cleanup and detail - delegating it across 3 bits could bring you down to 30 minutes at the maximum. no manual cleanup aside from a light sanding at higher grit, then right to finish.
I see your point. If the large bit was only for roughing, I could speed up the feed rate because I don't care about the cut quality. Then, I could run one finish pass with a smaller bit that is less susceptible to cause machine deflection. I may have to try this!
Thank you!!!
Just as a matter of interest. How do your neighbours respond to the sound your power tools make? I keep my garage door closed as much as I can bui stiill afair bit of noise still gets out.
i minabrons im always concerned about that too!!
I tell my neighbors to mind their business, and I close my shop by 7pm
Beautiful build Dave, I may need to "order" one of these from you lol
Can you explain the zero zero positioning you did for the bowls? I am new to CNC and didnt quite catch what you were doing. Maybe you have a link to a video or walk through on this? Thanks.... i guess Im gonna start learning V Carve too. Great...haha
Yes, I set the zero point in the software to be the top of the workpiece in the center of the tray. When I switched bits, the machine stayed still at the x & y zero point, but the new bit was a different length, so the z zero point had to be reset. I did this by manually jogging the machine to the z zero point and then clicking the button to reset z zero here.
Thanks. I guess the small routers don’t handle the large bits so well. Do you think the upgrade kit would help?
Yes, I still haven't purchased the upgrade kit, but I want to. It should definitely help.
This is why I went with the Shapeoko 3. I wish I saw your video before I bought it because I would have saved myself a lot of research hours.. I couldn't find anything where the vibration really came into play but this video and other videos showing the inability for X-Carve to cut into thick aluminium (which Shapeoko 3 can easily do at slow speeds with flawless accuracy). The issue with X-Carve vs Shapeoko is Shapeoko is very expensive in Europe, Shapeoko uses US steel so shipping from the US to Europe adds hundreds more dollars whereas X-Carve is all cheap lightweight Chinese parts so they can ship them anywhere in the world with ease.
I agree that the Shapeoko 3 looks like a much more rigid machine. Still I must admit, I've done some pretty cool stuff (not all on video) with X-carve. When I upgrade, I think it will be time to get the dream CNC machine in some type of pro version.
Try sticking an aluminum bar between the X axis extrusions (sandwich), it is not that hard or expensive and it helps a lot!
Maybe you can also add a middle support on the Y axis with an aluminum bar aswell that act as the end plates (on Y) but in the midle, I did all that and you can see and hear the difference
Why not surface plane the board on the cnc instead of the jointer?
Time and surface quality. I figured a push through the jointer was faster than CNC surface cutting. Also, I planed using the CNC once before and was disappointed with the swirl pattern it produced on the surface.
I notice you spoil board show that a dust boot was cut. I am a newbie and looking for a file... Would you happen to have one you can share?
Set your tool paths so the final (finish) pass on the walls and bottom is a very light pass. Say your normal pass is 1/8th of an inch, make your final pass 1/32 or 1/64th.
Would it work if you make rough cutouts with jigsaw first,so your router doesn't have to get all that wood out?
Hello David. You have an amazing videos. I am very newby on x-carve. Does the software stop in each toolpath, so you can change the router bit?
I do not use the free software that came with X-Carve (called Easel), but yes, even the software package I use (V-Carve Pro) requires a separate g-code for each bit. You have to switch out the bit, re-zero the Z-axis, and then load the next g-code file.
Recomendado
would the shapeoko and a change in IPMs be a better result?
Change in IPM should be enough to suffice, or depth of cut per pass.
What was the feed rate ... might be able to slow down to reduce chatter. i also noticed with my machine... the depth of the bit in the router would make it chatter also..
Specifically, what kind of tape did you use?
Looks like carpet tape to me double sided carpet tape
Ur machine size...and rpm...
It's the largest size X-carve machine (1000x1000mm), and rpm is approximate since it's not controlled by the software.
nice
The darker wood has just as much burning as the lighter wood. But since the wood is darker, the burns aren't as visible.
Maybe, but probably not. Some hardwoods are particularly prone to burning. Of the common North American hardwoods, cherry and maple burn much more easily than does walnut. It's not just the lighter color.
Yes. The explanation I've always heard is that fruit trees burn more easily (as you point out cherry and maple). This is because there is some sugar in the wood vs. non-fruit trees like oak, ash, or poplar.
How do u like the cheap particle board work table...on the xcarve?....i prefer aluminum... Much stronger and waterproof
Yes, Aluminum would be better, but so far the MDF table has done fine....and it shouldn't be getting wet anyway :)
i have an 11 inch wide piece too
Nice video. How do you like the V Carve Pro? I have wanted it for a long time but can't justify the cost so I have been using Inkscape and jscut.
V-Carve Pro is outstanding. Merging 3D models gets a little complicated, but I was especially impressed with how easy the basic features are to learn.
Well, looks like this video wasn't really about the bigger bits after all! Was it? Who knew?
Hey my brother I like your channel and I got you and I hit that bell to ok, I will see you again awesome project and good job later and take care :)
Double stick is not the best hold down. Maybe if your spoil board wasn't mdf I would say yeah. You need to clamp that thing down. Or even just put some screws through the corner and screw we Down. Double stick has some small movements and doesn't hold down solid
minuto 5¨58¨ error. la pieza hay que sujetarla y apretarla fuerte contra el rodamiento- mal
Show, top
reminds me of the classic game "simon says"
This not good for spindle.. just use endmill for cleaning and use that tool for edge finising..
This will be lots of pressure on spindle
Truthfully that router is not designed for that kind of bit. Even more so, in my experience a 1\4" shank with anything larger than 3\4" is a bad idea. Even using rail and style bits and taking shallow passes. If your FR is even slightly too high, you run risk of the shank breaking because the 1\4" shank is writing a check that it cant cash. It will break and break rather quickly. I would use a slightly higher HP router in that machine (requires larger spindle mounts) and then you can use 1\2" bits. The extra HP should power passed the chatter a bit.
Ive had my X-Carve for over 2yrs and i ONLY use 1/4" shank and have NEVER broken a bit. I use 1 1/4" & 1" V bits, 1/8"-1" end mills, and 1 1/2" surfacing bit. Also, the Dewalt 611 operates at 16,000 - 27,000 RPM's and is VERY capable of using 1/4" shank bits. Proper feed rates & depth of cuts provide me with nice clean cuts and NO chatter.
Raisins aren't candy
conventional cut will get rid of your chatter
MSOE; Milwaukee School of Engineering?
You bet! Go Raiders.
MSOE!
oh joy.. another wood worker that's okay with shotty work as long as they can hide it
Going to fast and thats why it chattering... bigger bit equals bigger chunks of wood to clear..
just wondering... if you dont know how to use a cnc machine to get a proper finish, why do you bother to make a video of that??
Why don't you use eyelashes? It makes it much easier for you to hold and remove the piece.
Well...things shouldnt happen but they do.....spilled glass of water...pop...slurpee..slushie...roof leak...all of thesecwould instantly destroy your mdf made machine....alum would be way better....structurally as well as resistant to water and most elements....plus when cutting alum you could water cool if bed was made of aluminum...you cant water cool with your mdf made machine
Stodoys has very good and accurate plans.