Great idea, but before running the antifreeze, I would drain the manifolds and block by opening the petcocks on them. The more water you take out, the more pure the antifreeze, hence the more protection. Thanks for sharing your method, I find it easy and efficient.
I appreciate all the feedback. This has worked for me for years, no problems. I've been using this method since long before I made this video. Its just an idea that might hopefully help some of you out there. There are a lot of legit concerns mentioned and depending on your climate, you may want to take stricter precautions. But I hope it has helped a few of you. Happy boating!
Great video but I’m wondering if u have to pre warm up the engine to open the thermostat and if you pre drain the water out first before adding the anti freeze ?
I know you said you do this till engine gets warm, but your thermostat probably won't be open all the time.. you can check this ...hose on one side of thermostat housing will be cold untill thermo opens at 180 and will close when recirculated antfreeze is pumped into engine cause i'll bet you can't keep it at 180 while youre pumping through engine ...Every engine is different but theres lots of little pockets ...especially in the exhaust manifolds where water can hide...probably OK if your winter temps are mid!!!! Suggest take an extra step and remove your thermostat and you'll circulate water the whole time... in any engine your thermo is opening and closing all the time >>>car guys found out along time you cant take a thermo out of your engine... it will never warm to operating temp.. car or boat !!!!! I've been doing this for 50 years.. no pool .. thermo out hose hooked to muff... other end to funnell and pour anti freeze into funnel..5-6 gallons for my present 454 mercruiser Bravo 3... I do take the extra precaution of draining the block and manifolds before doing this... plugs back in fill block with anti then start engine pour anti in... have all your jugs open someone else start engine and you pour....pulling the seawater pump on this engine is an all day job!!! !SORRY FOR LONG REPLY WOULD HAVE DONE AVIDEO BUT i'VE ALREADY DONE THIS MAYBE NEXT YEAR!!!! Reason I'm adding this... engineer brth in law did something similar to this last year cracked block this spring ..but it can get 10- 15 below here in Northern Ill.. And please dont get mad but with RV anti on sale at menards $2.50 a gallon... Im not saving it!! AGAIN GREAT JOB MAYBE JUST A LITTLE FOOD FOR THOUGHT!!
Great video, that's a good idea using the pool, and the pump recirculating the antifreeze. I thought the same thing as skibumpmc mentioned though. That the antifreeze would be diluted by the water left in the block and exhaust manifolds. I like your method but I would drain the block and the exhaust manifolds first and what W Jr. Wm. mentioned maybe pull the thermostat.
The method I prefer is to hook up muffs to water and run boat to open up thermostat, then connect antifreeze and exchange water for antifreeze then fog carb just before antifreeze is empty then open up freeze drains on manifold/block. also.add stabil to gas and crank.case seaform
ur a freaking genius!!! thanks very helpful. I hate going around my butt to get to my elbow and that seems like that's how everybody else winterizes there boat. I agree with the guy that commented first but then again I don't because I don't know anywhere in the lower part of the United States on the east side that gets anywhere close to 50 below much less what the temperature would be for it being diluted with water. and being that I live in South Carolina this method will for sure work for me. it never gets below +20°f here at the coldest point in our winter.
just looked it up it's called out antifreeze hydrometer they range in price mine works for me on my 87 Cutlass and basically it's just peace of mind that will tell you all about your antifreeze anytime you want to check it
you are adding deleted antifreeze back into the engine , you want to displace the water out of the engine with antifreeze - 50 pink, out of the exhaust port and make sure it is pink, like the stuff your pumping in , any thing less than solid pink, will freeze, be careful where you live you might need -80 the dark blue rv antifreeze
and by the way guy with the first comment, really not trying to be a smart-ass but they sell a tool for 599 and O'Reilly Advanced Auto basically any regular auto parts store that looks like a turkey baster with a 6 inch rubber hose on it with a meter on the outside and a little floating ball on the inside and basically it tells you when you suck your radiator fluid up in there for a car boat or whatever but you're freezing point is good investment only cost 499 and that way all you have to do is just put more antifreeze in there the more pure antifreeze you put in there the less the antifreeze is diluted easy fix
WARNING - By not draining the block & manifolds, you are basically diluting the antifreeze with water, so the freeze or "gel point" will be lower. In other words, -50 antifreeze mixed with water in the engine won't give you -50 protection. Bottom line, if you live in a cold climate, you might crack your block using this method. Drain the engine, manifolds, etc. and then reconnect everything before adding antifreeze.
This is true, however, since you loose about 1- 1.5 gallons per year, then you will keep your concentration at an acceptable level by adding a new gallon or two each year. The concentration comes as -50 deg, and I don't think it is diluted to amount to more than a degree or two. I guess if you live in Alaska, you will just have to do it the old fashion way just to be safe. lol.
correct assessment, this system only works if your engine is drained. There are only a few plugs in the engine, usually 2 on the block and 2 on the manifold ...mercruisers usually have blue plugs, it's easy to spot. Be on the safe side, it's not only good for your pocket $$$ but a;so good for the environment (less waste).
@@tyleranderson4608 I've used the method like this on my boat with a 4.3 liter Mercruiser for over 12 years now. That I've had the boat and I have never had a problem with it. Although I do not recirculate the antifreeze back through the engine block I collect properly but I run fresh antifreeze through once the engine is up to temperature and then start with -50 + checking it with a refractometer and if I need to oil a little -100 take it down even further to get it down fill out - 30 on it's freezing protection
Not if you have the drain hoses! But on older mercruiser engines you have the good old plugs in akward places, and maybe stuck by corrosion. So this is a brilliant alternative. And if you let the first water drain to the ground before letting it return to the pool, the dilution is minimal 👌😉
Yeah come again. My brass block plug seized in the left side of the block and broke off. Between the tight quarters to work in and an angle drill still being too big. It caused a major headache. This way is a great way to winterize a boat motor.
Great idea, but before running the antifreeze, I would drain the manifolds and block by opening the petcocks on them. The more water you take out, the more pure the antifreeze, hence the more protection. Thanks for sharing your method, I find it easy and efficient.
I appreciate all the feedback. This has worked for me for years, no problems. I've been using this method since long before I made this video. Its just an idea that might hopefully help some of you out there. There are a lot of legit concerns mentioned and depending on your climate, you may want to take stricter precautions. But I hope it has helped a few of you. Happy boating!
Great video but I’m wondering if u have to pre warm up the engine to open the thermostat and if you pre drain the water out first before adding the anti freeze ?
I know you said you do this till engine gets warm, but your thermostat probably won't be open all the time.. you can check this ...hose on one side of thermostat housing will be cold untill thermo opens at 180 and will close when recirculated antfreeze is pumped into engine cause i'll bet you can't keep it at 180 while youre pumping through engine ...Every engine is different but theres lots of little pockets ...especially in the exhaust manifolds where water can hide...probably OK if your winter temps are mid!!!! Suggest take an extra step and remove your thermostat and you'll circulate water the whole time... in any engine your thermo is opening and closing all the time >>>car guys found out along time you cant take a thermo out of your engine... it will never warm to operating temp.. car or boat !!!!!
I've been doing this for 50 years.. no pool .. thermo out hose hooked to muff... other end to funnell and pour anti freeze into funnel..5-6 gallons for my present 454 mercruiser Bravo 3... I do take the extra precaution of draining the block and manifolds before doing this... plugs back in fill block with anti then start engine pour anti in... have all your jugs open someone else start engine and you pour....pulling the seawater pump on this engine is an all day job!!!
!SORRY FOR LONG REPLY WOULD HAVE DONE AVIDEO BUT i'VE ALREADY DONE THIS MAYBE NEXT YEAR!!!!
Reason I'm adding this... engineer brth in law did something similar to this last year cracked block this spring ..but it can get 10- 15 below here in Northern Ill..
And please dont get mad but with RV anti on sale at menards $2.50 a gallon... Im not saving it!!
AGAIN GREAT JOB MAYBE JUST A LITTLE FOOD FOR THOUGHT!!
I use a spare bilge pump, works great
Great video, that's a good idea using the pool, and the pump recirculating the antifreeze. I thought the same thing as skibumpmc mentioned though. That the antifreeze would be diluted by the water left in the block and exhaust manifolds. I like your method but I would drain the block and the exhaust manifolds first and what W Jr. Wm. mentioned maybe pull the thermostat.
He said he used about 1.5 gallons out of six, which means it might be diluted by 25%. For -80 degree antifreeze, it should still be good down to -60.
The method I prefer is to hook up muffs to water and run boat to open up thermostat, then connect antifreeze and exchange water for antifreeze then fog carb just before antifreeze is empty then open up freeze drains on manifold/block. also.add stabil to gas and crank.case seaform
That is what I do too, works great. RJ
ur a freaking genius!!! thanks very helpful. I hate going around my butt to get to my elbow and that seems like that's how everybody else winterizes there boat. I agree with the guy that commented first but then again I don't because I don't know anywhere in the lower part of the United States on the east side that gets anywhere close to 50 below much less what the temperature would be for it being diluted with water. and being that I live in South Carolina this method will for sure work for me. it never gets below +20°f here at the coldest point in our winter.
What are the specifications for the pump? Do you need a pump, or could you simply use the boat pump suction?
I think the video was great, learned a lot, feel confident I can do this.
just looked it up it's called out antifreeze hydrometer they range in price mine works for me on my 87 Cutlass and basically it's just peace of mind that will tell you all about your antifreeze anytime you want to check it
Ok idea but cannot mix any water with that type of anti freeze..when the motor is running it may be mixing water in block in the pool
you are adding deleted antifreeze back into the engine , you want to displace the water out of the engine with antifreeze - 50 pink, out of the exhaust port and make sure it is pink, like the stuff your pumping in , any thing less than solid pink, will freeze, be careful where you live you might need -80 the dark blue rv antifreeze
and by the way guy with the first comment, really not trying to be a smart-ass but they sell a tool for 599 and O'Reilly Advanced Auto basically any regular auto parts store that looks like a turkey baster with a 6 inch rubber hose on it with a meter on the outside and a little floating ball on the inside and basically it tells you when you suck your radiator fluid up in there for a car boat or whatever but you're freezing point is good investment only cost 499 and that way all you have to do is just put more antifreeze in there the more pure antifreeze you put in there the less the antifreeze is diluted easy fix
WARNING - By not draining the block & manifolds, you are basically diluting the antifreeze with water, so the freeze or "gel point" will be lower. In other words, -50 antifreeze mixed with water in the engine won't give you -50 protection.
Bottom line, if you live in a cold climate, you might crack your block using this method. Drain the engine, manifolds, etc. and then reconnect everything before adding antifreeze.
This is true, however, since you loose about 1- 1.5 gallons per year, then you will keep your concentration at an acceptable level by adding a new gallon or two each year. The concentration comes as -50 deg, and I don't think it is diluted to amount to more than a degree or two. I guess if you live in Alaska, you will just have to do it the old fashion way just to be safe. lol.
medicdyer
"you lose 1-1.5 gallons per year"
What the hell are you talking about?
Edit: didn't watch far enough to see you reuse the antifreeze.
correct assessment, this system only works if your engine is drained. There are only a few plugs in the engine, usually 2 on the block and 2 on the manifold ...mercruisers usually have blue plugs, it's easy to spot. Be on the safe side, it's not only good for your pocket $$$ but a;so good for the environment (less waste).
Great vid thank you I will try this and save myself $200 that the boat shop wants
How has this method worked for you jake?
@@tyleranderson4608 I've used the method like this on my boat with a 4.3 liter Mercruiser for over 12 years now. That I've had the boat and I have never had a problem with it. Although I do not recirculate the antifreeze back through the engine block I collect properly but I run fresh antifreeze through once the engine is up to temperature and then start with -50 + checking it with a refractometer and if I need to oil a little -100 take it down even further to get it down fill out - 30 on it's freezing protection
have you had any problems with your boat from the time you posted this three years ago?
not hard to pull the hoses to drain water and then fill with antifreeze
Jackfireball
Exactly. Too many dumbasses taking shortcuts and posting videos.
Not if you have the drain hoses! But on older mercruiser engines you have the good old plugs in akward places, and maybe stuck by corrosion.
So this is a brilliant alternative. And if you let the first water drain to the ground before letting it return to the pool, the dilution is minimal 👌😉
Yeah come again. My brass block plug seized in the left side of the block and broke off. Between the tight quarters to work in and an angle drill still being too big. It caused a major headache. This way is a great way to winterize a boat motor.
that was great. thanks
And the water that was in there just mixed with the pink thats not good cause you have alot of water mix with it
do not add dulutted anti freeze to any system, you want pure pink coming out, not watered downed reclaimed from process
Water in block deleted your antifreeze
Dont need the pump will suck on its own
Not if the muffs don’t seal tight enough.
@@tedschmitt178 well yeah but if you don't have muffs that seal they should be in the trash and buy new ones I would hope everyone should know that
Www