Videos like this and the wood stove to heat the house make me think how much I like watching you. I don't own a house, I live in Rio de Janeiro and won't ever need a stove for heating, yet here I am watching you. Just a very enjoyable channel.
Good job, Keith! I had a similar problem in my basement. One wall was damp whenever it rained and it caused some mold growth here and there throughout the basement. Four different basement waterproofing companies wanted to dig a trench around the inside perimeter of the basement and install a sump pump. $$$$! But I did NOT have water, just dampness on one wall which never dripped to the floor. Finally I found a company that would waterproof my walls with a product similar to what you used. First I cleaned my walls with a bleach solution and a wire brush to remove the mold. When it was dry the waterproofing company came in and sprayed the solution onto the walls. Only took them a couple hours and a lot less money. Haven't had a problem since. Good luck with your project. I'll keep watching for updates. Love your vids and how enterprising you are.
Love this book! th-cam.com/users/postUgkxpCNxqmAkyjN6NPx1fyB7QiEFWyO5mUWL it is simply one-of-a-kind! I really love it, because karah explained all tools required to have the job done, not mentioning the fabulous diy pallets ideas. I'm pretty sure this will be a fresh start in my new endeavour. Amazon was great, they delivered on time. Thank you!
This is a subject close to my heart! We have A LOT of rain here and keeping damp away from the house walls is a constant task. Really interested to see how you tackle this over time and how you differentiate between ground, rising, penetration and condensation. Great editing of your 'conversation'!
Noticed quite a bit of moss/algae on the fence opposite the wall so I suspect you don't get much sunlight in this area, which of course exacerbates the problem. Good on you for tackling this, in any case, since the last thing you need is mold/mildew anywhere on the property.
I like these videos although I like the maker ones too. I've just laid some concrete foundations for a shed. Got a cement mixer and it makes more difference than I thought both in speed and not groaning when I move afterwards! Discovered your podcast too, loved it. Cheers.
Wow so glad I found your video. I've just moved and I've inherited dream garage/workshop. Been painting the floor but not up to the walls because there's rain seeping in around the perimeter in places. My problem is I can't get to most of the outside as the building is too close to the boundary, this is creating a sludge moat effect... I'm ordering that stuff tonight, hopefully I can paint over it and park a car on part of it 😊
Have you considered installing Acco drains along the perimeter? You could run the downpipe into them. Acco is a brand but it's what most people call them regardless of brand. Available at builders merchants and the likes of Toolstation. Easy to install and look good.
You are absolutely right about recommending Drybase Liquid Damp Proof Membrane. I have read the reviews of the other products and there are many negative reviews suggesting that they are no up to the job. Really great video with lots of very helpful ideas. Thank you.
Good job Keith! Hopefully will do the trick. Single garages were designed as garages so making them habitable is always tricky. Heat, insulation and ventilation is definitely key!
very useful vid! I've got a bad damp problem in my workshop, as there is no dpm in the (very thin) concrete floor, and the dpc in the block walls is more or less at ground level! i'm not just getting a bit of mould on the floor though, everything in there is damp to the touch and smells musty, probably not helped by being so close to a river - I suspect that the ground water level is fairly high at this time of the year
If you're going to put new concrete in anyway, I'd suggest your extend the downpipe under the concrete to a sloping part of your garden and also lower the concrete in front of the house. Maybe in combination with a french drain or something elese that drains quickly.
I've noticed around where I live that street facing properties that go straight onto pavement have their downpipes go into channels dug into the concrete, kind of like routered lines for a draining board if that makes sense! These are slopped to drain the water away into nearby drains on the road, and the pavement above can remain flat so walking isn't impacted
Hey Keith. Just a thought. If the space under the plastic trim was dry when you took it off it is possible the damp is just cold wall way from the house with no air flow as you had all the racking against the wall. The plaster board will help for sure adding the insolation 👍🏻
Hope success on tanking. Idea fthe downpipe outlet. French Drain? Solid channel just below surface with loose gravel . Maybe in a wide. Semi circular pipe to direct it towards fence??
I was thinking the same, and maybe run across the gate to the gravel strip the opposite side? Takes all the flow then away from the house. Got to do the same with my house this summer (after I've done the flat roof, kitchen, all the skirtings, door architraves,,,,,)
Even my 100 year old house has some construction to divert downpipe water away from the foundation. And you live in GB where it rains a lot, and build houses out of wicking materials. Isn’t there a building code to protect the average joe from this type of construction?
Standard phrasing from my lokal building code, through Google Translate: The ground around a building must be arranged so that the building cannot be damaged by surface water or soil moisture. The ground should slope away from the building. The slope should be at least 1:20 within a distance of 3 meters. [..] A drainage system consists of: a water-collecting part, which must also protect the building from water, and which consists of draining and capillary-breaking material, for example washed macadam a water-draining part: drainage lines that lead away the water that has accumulated in the draining and capillary-breaking layer. The drainage should be dimensioned so that the diversion of water is at least as large as the maximum inflow to the drainage. To counteract damming in the drainage system, the system's capacity should increase in the flow direction.
How We Resolved Our Damp, Condensation & Mould Issues: th-cam.com/video/HCo8nWzfFVc/w-d-xo.html DryBase Damp Proof Membrane Black amzn.to/3WhpbOy (Amazon UK) geni.us/5IgI (Amazon Worldwide) DryBase Damp Proof Membrane 5L White amzn.to/3ITWwMM (Amazon UK) geni.us/wYfHXc (Amazon Worldwide) Everbuild Damp Proof Membrane amzn.to/3ZwVgou (Amazon UK) geni.us/Evro (Amazon Worldwide) 🔨 MY TOOLS 🔨 For links to the tools I use, plus some of my favourite consumables, finishes and more see links below. As an Amazon Associate I may earn a small commission from qualifying purchases www.amazon.co.uk/shop/ragnbonebrown US affiliate store: www.amazon.com/shop/ragnbonebrown 🤝 HELP SUPPORT THE CHANNEL 🤝 Support with TH-cam channel membership: th-cam.com/channels/VyE_6jEtVZGmYGXtUOL5FQ.htmljoin Support with Patreon: www.patreon.com/ragnbonebrown Support with PayPal paypal.me/ragnbonebrown Shop With Amazon using my affiliate link: geni.us/iWD3K 💰 SHOP 💰 Etsy: www.etsy.com/uk/shop/KeithBrownMaker teespring.com/stores/rag-n-bone-brown-merch 🎧 WORKSHOP BANTER PODCAST 🎧 th-cam.com/users/workshopbanter Also available on Spotify, Apple, Google and most other podcast platforms 🔗 LINKS: 🔗 Website: www.ragnbonebrown.com Facebook: facebook.com/ragnbonebrown Instagram: @ragnbonebrown Twitter: twitter.com/ragnbonebrown Email: ragnbonebrown@gmail.com Second TH-cam Channel (non woodwork videos): th-cam.com/users/keefykeef
You have identified the issues, look up a French drain. If you cut that concrete away from wall and put in gravel trench. If you could divert that downpipe away even to otherside of path would help
I’m pretty sure the concerns over adhesion over painted surfaces is more to do with the damp lifting the paint and then the membrane with it. Rather than the membrane not sticking to the paint.
When you say a single skin wall, is that either brick or breeze block? I have the same issue with a single breeze block outhouse attached to the side of the house. Parts of the lower walls are wet and areas of the floor around the corners are wet also. Sounds very similar to what issues you’ve faced here. Thanks for a great video.
Good job Keith, I haven't looked into the DPM product but wonder if SBR primer could be good "belt and braces" if people are concerned about their substrate? SBR seems to be the most universal primer 👍🏻
Great video as always. I would think might cut out concrete and divert that pipe, then fill it in. I've got an electronic concrete saw that is ace. Cheap and does wicked job.
I'm surprised nobody reacted to your handsignal on 1:52 in the video. It was a sneeky move... :D Nice job, but I guess in the future you'll have to do some work on the outside to keep the moisture out for good. Because as it is now, moisture can and will still get into the walls and slowly creep up the walls and produce mold again at some time.
Pretty interesting process indeed, Keith! 😃 Too bad about all the sanding belts... But it was definitely worth it! Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Amazing video. Short enough not to lose interest, detailed enough to get the job done. Would this work with a lidget Compton type garage? The pre-fab concrete ones with panels that line up together?
For the insulation have you thought about doing it externally? Will costs more obviously but worth a thought? Maybe as well the internal insulated plasterboard?
Hi, hoping you can help. I’ve just ordered some of this DPM. Could you tell me how big is that room please as I think I might need more than 1 tin as I need to go a bit further up the wall in my project.
They also do an injectable DPC cream, I used it on our bungalow wall, where we were getting mould on the inside wall, which solved the problem. Worth a thought.
Whilst your move has provided you with many topics for YT videos, I thank providence that my move to a 70's house in a village in Somerset was far less traumatic 🤨
Hey Keith, do you have a video on the fitting of the existing insulated plasterboard? Did you fit a vapour barrier inbetween the board and the wall? Looking to do something similar myself.
If I don't dig serval holes on the bottom of this damp wall and apply damp Injection cream (because it will cost bit more money and time) Can I just clean up the wall and apply water proof membrane instead and repaint the wall after a few hours? Will the damp issue raise up again?
Keith why not think about cutting out a channel in your pathway where the downpipe let's the water flow and install a length of ducting, the type that's used outside of a garage. At least this way the water is carried away from the house and onto your soiled area. The channel is cheap I've just purchased 6 x 1meter lengths and only paid £44 for all six. Such an easy install you'd only need to cut out a small area roughly 7 inches deep by around 4 inches wide.
Hi I have the same problem.. currently I have a patio beside my garage which is laid above the DPM and causing a leak into my garage floor, similar to yourself it’s only really in one area. Did this cure your problem? Any advice appreciated, thanks 😊
I struggled to find an offical answer for that, but on Amazon many of the reviews say that people have done it successfully 🤷♂️ I'm gonna be laying some flooring over the top though
Ok I’m a Canadian living in the States and can usually ‘translate’ between English, Canadian and American. But “tanking”? I can’t figure out exactly what that means? Or come up with a substitute word. Oiling? Painting? Help!
Would probably have been simpler / more efficient to remove the floor paint with a) an angle grinder (and either some concrete sanding discs - these are generally black with red backing - or a hard steel brush), b) a heat gun, or c) sodium hydroxide paint stripper.
Is this the same kind of bitumen membrane used as code sub coat in showers (3-4 coats) and wet rooms (1-2 coats) for propper waterproofing, like the *Mapei Plastimul?*
When you dig out the channel you could continue around to the nearest drain for your sink waste. Then use black jack bitumen paint to seal the exposed footings to the wall all the way to the drain ensuring you apply it so it gets 150mm above ground level. Then lay sand inside it to create a fall along the channel towards the drain. Then line the channel with waterproof membrane/liner and lay a perforated pipe along the length of the now lined channel to the drain and create a hole for the pipe to poke through the side of the drain. When that is done you can put your gravel into the channel. As your perforated pipe will now always be at the lowest point of the channel along the whole length as it follows the fall, any water getting into the channel will drain immediately. The bitumen protects your wall from moisture and the liner holds excess water should heavy rainfall exceed the rate of drainage in the pipe. Also no need to relocate your downpipe as it will always divert to your drain.
You go to solve one problem and find a new one, it always goes like this with old houses! anyway, great content as usual! only cat content was missing, I guess your clone will have to do for today :D
Dammit!!! So frustrating! Wanted to see the full resolution to the problem! I'm not a majorly patient person (check the name), but I'll chew some nails as I await the rest of this project. HOPEFULLY, you'll give us the "Rest of The Story" some incalculable measure of time from now. I'm American, but I'll use this phrase: "I'll be waiting on tenterhooks" for full resolution. Don't be stingy, Keith-- give us the "Full Monty" in the next video! That said: Love ya, man! Keep me coming angrily (or otherwise) back! 🙂
Videos like this and the wood stove to heat the house make me think how much I like watching you.
I don't own a house, I live in Rio de Janeiro and won't ever need a stove for heating, yet here I am watching you.
Just a very enjoyable channel.
Wow thank you! And thanks for watching!
Good job, Keith! I had a similar problem in my basement. One wall was damp whenever it rained and it caused some mold growth here and there throughout the basement. Four different basement waterproofing companies wanted to dig a trench around the inside perimeter of the basement and install a sump pump. $$$$! But I did NOT have water, just dampness on one wall which never dripped to the floor. Finally I found a company that would waterproof my walls with a product similar to what you used. First I cleaned my walls with a bleach solution and a wire brush to remove the mold. When it was dry the waterproofing company came in and sprayed the solution onto the walls. Only took them a couple hours and a lot less money. Haven't had a problem since. Good luck with your project. I'll keep watching for updates. Love your vids and how enterprising you are.
Hi, Did you repaint the wall with another colour after applied waterproof membrane or the membrane wont stick with any new colour paint?
Well done mate. Probably my favourite channel at the moment.
Love this book! th-cam.com/users/postUgkxpCNxqmAkyjN6NPx1fyB7QiEFWyO5mUWL it is simply one-of-a-kind! I really love it, because karah explained all tools required to have the job done, not mentioning the fabulous diy pallets ideas. I'm pretty sure this will be a fresh start in my new endeavour. Amazon was great, they delivered on time. Thank you!
This is a subject close to my heart! We have A LOT of rain here and keeping damp away from the house walls is a constant task. Really interested to see how you tackle this over time and how you differentiate between ground, rising, penetration and condensation. Great editing of your 'conversation'!
Noticed quite a bit of moss/algae on the fence opposite the wall so I suspect you don't get much sunlight in this area, which of course exacerbates the problem. Good on you for tackling this, in any case, since the last thing you need is mold/mildew anywhere on the property.
I like these videos although I like the maker ones too. I've just laid some concrete foundations for a shed. Got a cement mixer and it makes more difference than I thought both in speed and not groaning when I move afterwards! Discovered your podcast too, loved it. Cheers.
I had a similar issue with keying my painted floor. In the end I found a rotary cup brush worked quickest.
Wow so glad I found your video. I've just moved and I've inherited dream garage/workshop. Been painting the floor but not up to the walls because there's rain seeping in around the perimeter in places. My problem is I can't get to most of the outside as the building is too close to the boundary, this is creating a sludge moat effect... I'm ordering that stuff tonight, hopefully I can paint over it and park a car on part of it 😊
Have you considered installing Acco drains along the perimeter? You could run the downpipe into them. Acco is a brand but it's what most people call them regardless of brand. Available at builders merchants and the likes of Toolstation. Easy to install and look good.
You are absolutely right about recommending Drybase Liquid Damp Proof Membrane. I have read the reviews of the other products and there are many negative reviews suggesting that they are no up to the job. Really great video with lots of very helpful ideas. Thank you.
I have the same issue that my concrete floor is painted and i want to tank it. This is a very helpful video, thank you!
Good job Keith! Hopefully will do the trick. Single garages were designed as garages so making them habitable is always tricky. Heat, insulation and ventilation is definitely key!
Very true! Cheers
Moved into a place with a “converted garage” and learning this myself!
Love the intro with the Rag & Brown LOL
very useful vid! I've got a bad damp problem in my workshop, as there is no dpm in the (very thin) concrete floor, and the dpc in the block walls is more or less at ground level! i'm not just getting a bit of mould on the floor though, everything in there is damp to the touch and smells musty, probably not helped by being so close to a river - I suspect that the ground water level is fairly high at this time of the year
If you're going to put new concrete in anyway, I'd suggest your extend the downpipe under the concrete to a sloping part of your garden and also lower the concrete in front of the house. Maybe in combination with a french drain or something elese that drains quickly.
I've noticed around where I live that street facing properties that go straight onto pavement have their downpipes go into channels dug into the concrete, kind of like routered lines for a draining board if that makes sense! These are slopped to drain the water away into nearby drains on the road, and the pavement above can remain flat so walking isn't impacted
Hey Keith. Just a thought. If the space under the plastic trim was dry when you took it off it is possible the damp is just cold wall way from the house with no air flow as you had all the racking against the wall. The plaster board will help for sure adding the insolation 👍🏻
Hope success on tanking. Idea fthe downpipe outlet. French Drain? Solid channel just below surface with loose gravel . Maybe in a wide. Semi circular pipe to direct it towards fence??
if there is a fall then why not put a drainage channel with galvanized grate, tight to the wall, which could also carry the water from the downpipe
I was thinking the same, and maybe run across the gate to the gravel strip the opposite side? Takes all the flow then away from the house. Got to do the same with my house this summer (after I've done the flat roof, kitchen, all the skirtings, door architraves,,,,,)
Even my 100 year old house has some construction to divert downpipe water away from the foundation. And you live in GB where it rains a lot, and build houses out of wicking materials. Isn’t there a building code to protect the average joe from this type of construction?
Standard phrasing from my lokal building code, through Google Translate:
The ground around a building must be arranged so that the building cannot be damaged by surface water or soil moisture. The ground should slope away from the building. The slope should be at least 1:20 within a distance of 3 meters. [..]
A drainage system consists of:
a water-collecting part, which must also protect the building from water, and which consists of draining and capillary-breaking material, for example washed macadam
a water-draining part: drainage lines that lead away the water that has accumulated in the draining and capillary-breaking layer.
The drainage should be dimensioned so that the diversion of water is at least as large as the maximum inflow to the drainage. To counteract damming in the drainage system, the system's capacity should increase in the flow direction.
How We Resolved Our Damp, Condensation & Mould Issues: th-cam.com/video/HCo8nWzfFVc/w-d-xo.html
DryBase Damp Proof Membrane Black amzn.to/3WhpbOy (Amazon UK) geni.us/5IgI (Amazon Worldwide)
DryBase Damp Proof Membrane 5L White amzn.to/3ITWwMM (Amazon UK) geni.us/wYfHXc (Amazon Worldwide)
Everbuild Damp Proof Membrane amzn.to/3ZwVgou (Amazon UK) geni.us/Evro (Amazon Worldwide)
🔨 MY TOOLS 🔨
For links to the tools I use, plus some of my favourite consumables, finishes and more see links below. As an Amazon Associate I may earn a small commission from qualifying purchases www.amazon.co.uk/shop/ragnbonebrown
US affiliate store: www.amazon.com/shop/ragnbonebrown
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You have identified the issues, look up a French drain. If you cut that concrete away from wall and put in gravel trench. If you could divert that downpipe away even to otherside of path would help
OK so if I put the DPMP down can I then use a glue to lay my floor boreds over it or will there be a bad reaction
Seems like a lot of work! GL!
Thanks Keith. Will certainly be using this stuff for my garage walls. Interesting the everbuild states floors and not walls unlike this.
had a similar problem at mine installed channel drains outside to the nearest gully worked a treat
I’m pretty sure the concerns over adhesion over painted surfaces is more to do with the damp lifting the paint and then the membrane with it. Rather than the membrane not sticking to the paint.
When you say a single skin wall, is that either brick or breeze block? I have the same issue with a single breeze block outhouse attached to the side of the house. Parts of the lower walls are wet and areas of the floor around the corners are wet also. Sounds very similar to what issues you’ve faced here. Thanks for a great video.
Good job Keith, I haven't looked into the DPM product but wonder if SBR primer could be good "belt and braces" if people are concerned about their substrate? SBR seems to be the most universal primer 👍🏻
Great video as always. I would think might cut out concrete and divert that pipe, then fill it in. I've got an electronic concrete saw that is ace. Cheap and does wicked job.
I'm surprised nobody reacted to your handsignal on 1:52 in the video. It was a sneeky move... :D
Nice job, but I guess in the future you'll have to do some work on the outside to keep the moisture out for good. Because as it is now, moisture can and will still get into the walls and slowly creep up the walls and produce mold again at some time.
Ha ha didn't notice that. Yes outside needs sorting but have to wait for weather to improve!
Looking forward to the work in the garage
The fact that you checked for mould with your middle finger is too funny
Interesting video Keith.
I know how it feels fighting damp etc .
Great video mate 👍🏽👍🏽
Pretty interesting process indeed, Keith! 😃
Too bad about all the sanding belts... But it was definitely worth it!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Amazing video. Short enough not to lose interest, detailed enough to get the job done.
Would this work with a lidget Compton type garage? The pre-fab concrete ones with panels that line up together?
I can't wait for part 2.
For the insulation have you thought about doing it externally? Will costs more obviously but worth a thought? Maybe as well the internal insulated plasterboard?
Hi, hoping you can help. I’ve just ordered some of this DPM. Could you tell me how big is that room please as I think I might need more than 1 tin as I need to go a bit further up the wall in my project.
They also do an injectable DPC cream, I used it on our bungalow wall, where we were getting mould on the inside wall, which solved the problem. Worth a thought.
I such thing as injectable dpc cream it’s a con
Whilst your move has provided you with many topics for YT videos, I thank providence that my move to a 70's house in a village in Somerset was far less traumatic 🤨
😁👍 it certainly keeps me busy
I would have hired a floor sander for a day, it all looks good.
Hey Keith, do you have a video on the fitting of the existing insulated plasterboard? Did you fit a vapour barrier inbetween the board and the wall? Looking to do something similar myself.
Hi Keith and thanks, as always, for useful information.
Glad you enjoyed it
Can you pour self levelling compound over this?
4:55 - Now this is true innovation, using sanding discs on a belt sander! 😜
If I don't dig serval holes on the bottom of this damp wall and apply damp Injection cream (because it will cost bit more money and time)
Can I just clean up the wall and apply water proof membrane instead and repaint the wall after a few hours?
Will the damp issue raise up again?
Keith why not think about cutting out a channel in your pathway where the downpipe let's the water flow and install a length of ducting, the type that's used outside of a garage. At least this way the water is carried away from the house and onto your soiled area. The channel is cheap I've just purchased 6 x 1meter lengths and only paid £44 for all six. Such an easy install you'd only need to cut out a small area roughly 7 inches deep by around 4 inches wide.
Will be covered in a future video 👌
Hi I have the same problem.. currently I have a patio beside my garage which is laid above the DPM and causing a leak into my garage floor, similar to yourself it’s only really in one area.
Did this cure your problem? Any advice appreciated, thanks 😊
Could cut a groove in the path for the RWP water to fall across to the verge?
Very interesting l thinking about my workshop floor and walls which is a single skin walls so I will taking note thanks 😊
Glad it was helpful!
Could you tile over this stuff with tile adhesive?
got a few old trestle scaff planks if you can do something with?
Thank you for your tip.
Hi, just wondering, is it OK to put carpet over this product?
It might be just condensation rather than penetrating damp causing the mould. Is there a radiator in the room?
How's the MDF gate holding up?
Good video Keith! Thank you for always sharing with us!💖👍😎JP
A very interesting project
Thank you
Helpful video but just reminded me of Jurassic Park when John Hammond talks to himself on his Dino DNA short film
Can you tile on top of it
Festool mop! Moving up in the world!
🤣👌
Getting the cat spa room ready , I like it 😺
😁👍
Good video.
great intro
Thanks
Excellent as always, Keith.
Who was that nosey git in your intro? ;-)
Thanks! Ha ha. The intro skit was originally much longer but I had to cut it for fear of it being too long!
@@RagnBoneBrown Don't! I thought it was very funny.
Is the tanking slurry robust enough for regular foot traffic, or do you need to put some flooring over the top?
I am not sure to be honest. We will be laying flooring over it though 👍
Bo primer?
I guess Keith you can't paint on top of the DPM (garage floor paint)? 🤨🤨
I struggled to find an offical answer for that, but on Amazon many of the reviews say that people have done it successfully 🤷♂️ I'm gonna be laying some flooring over the top though
Ok I’m a Canadian living in the States and can usually ‘translate’ between English, Canadian and American. But “tanking”? I can’t figure out exactly what that means? Or come up with a substitute word. Oiling? Painting? Help!
The term “tanking” comes from the idea that by completely sealing a room, a waterproof tank-like barrier is created.
@@PabloBD Ahhh! Thank-you!
Will the moisture just make its way up through the walls now instead?
Not when I lower the floor height outside
@@RagnBoneBrown very good
Take the down pipe at the gate under the concrete. Cut out and re concrete. Easy? 👌🏻
Would probably have been simpler / more efficient to remove the floor paint with a) an angle grinder (and either some concrete sanding discs - these are generally black with red backing - or a hard steel brush), b) a heat gun, or c) sodium hydroxide paint stripper.
Is this the same kind of bitumen membrane used as code sub coat in showers (3-4 coats) and wet rooms (1-2 coats) for propper waterproofing, like the *Mapei Plastimul?*
Maybe a chemical DPC?
When you dig out the channel you could continue around to the nearest drain for your sink waste.
Then use black jack bitumen paint to seal the exposed footings to the wall all the way to the drain ensuring you apply it so it gets 150mm above ground level.
Then lay sand inside it to create a fall along the channel towards the drain.
Then line the channel with waterproof membrane/liner and lay a perforated pipe along the length of the now lined channel to the drain and create a hole for the pipe to poke through the side of the drain.
When that is done you can put your gravel into the channel.
As your perforated pipe will now always be at the lowest point of the channel along the whole length as it follows the fall, any water getting into the channel will drain immediately.
The bitumen protects your wall from moisture and the liner holds excess water should heavy rainfall exceed the rate of drainage in the pipe.
Also no need to relocate your downpipe as it will always divert to your drain.
creating a channel and filling with stones might hold more water against the wall unless it can soak away...just a thought
Just looked like you had a lack of air flow.
Two inch gap under the racking, plenty of airflow
The downspout could go above the gate, but that would not be the most attractive option!
Thanks. I am the king of ugly downpipe installations so that thought had occurred to me 🤣 but I have a better idea 👌
@@RagnBoneBrown How about a surface drain to channel the water from the existing downpipe across the path to the gravel soak-away?
Or an arbor over the gate to hide the downspout. 😄
You go to solve one problem and find a new one, it always goes like this with old houses! anyway, great content as usual! only cat content was missing, I guess your clone will have to do for today :D
Nooice!
9:35 update long over due.............lol
watch "gate city foundation" , never put gravel against your walls.
Correct.... When you have a basement!
Great video, is the floor still holding up o.k, no issues as I’m looking to do this
No issues so far
bro i like your videos, but bloody hell, painting all that with a brush?? and a broom? get a paint roller on the go my man
Dammit!!! So frustrating! Wanted to see the full resolution to the problem! I'm not a majorly patient person (check the name), but I'll chew some nails as I await the rest of this project. HOPEFULLY, you'll give us the "Rest of The Story" some incalculable measure of time from now.
I'm American, but I'll use this phrase: "I'll be waiting on tenterhooks" for full resolution. Don't be stingy, Keith-- give us the "Full Monty" in the next video! That said: Love ya, man! Keep me coming angrily (or otherwise) back! 🙂
Wouldn't some whitewash have worked?
Really informative. My wife has started watching with me. Why were you giving your floor the bird though?! 🖕 1:52
Thanks! Haha, I didn't spot that until now! 😁
Can you tile over this