Outstanding once again! Please try to share your videos everywhere...they are truly unique and one of a kind...no one explains aquariums, filtration, etc as we as you do...
Cory from Aquarium co-op need to share this series! Awesome information. Can't belive you dont have ???k of subs. your did a awesome job on this ! , thanks so much!
Thank you so much for your time and energy. Simple explanations help me to understand some filters that I knew about but did not understand how and why they worked. Now it is crystal clear. I love your style. The sound of your gentle voice and the sound the marker besides the brilliance of having drawn illustrations all ready to go. All round a brilliant display. Please do some live streams. That would be great!!
Outsanding ! Thanks Jay, your videos have the most clear explanation I have seen so far on TH-cam. Just one request though...please switch to another kind of pen that does not make that screechy sound when you write....gives the very unpleasant feeling of fingernails scratching a wall 😖
Jay wet dry is not limited and neither is fluidized... simple adjustment of baffles fixes all issues. I run a submerged 55g sump that has two fluidized chambers as well as a low flow chamber for nitrate consumption. By simply using different baffle heights you can use any type of filtering at any time wo sacrifice. The only downfall of wet/dry (and the reason I don’t use it on my sump) is you lose a lot of water capacity due to all the air. My intake comes down to a fluidized bioball chamber. (Intake is low in chamber and baffle high) I like bioballs for capturing detritus not for filtering. The water then spills over to a bubble baffle high then low setup. From there I run k1 media with 1 air stone 6” Long. The water then spills over another bubble wall baffle setup where I have biomedia. This area is 17” lone but split in half with an almost full height baffle. The second half runs my nitrate chamber. Because it’s one chamber with bottom intake under baffle and overflow baffle on the other side.. by having a split wall in the middle I get tons of bypass which results in low flow for the nitrate chamber. From there I run yet another bubble wall baffle setup to my return pump. Point I’m getting to is with proper planning you could run all three types of filtering in any given setup at the same time. I would actually prefer to do a trickle over my bioballs and remove my k1 and replace with Something else... but I won’t give up the 15 gallons or so of water I’d lose. Ideally I’d run trickle over balls, followed by smaller k1 chamber, followed by some quality media then a big cheato chamber. I could very well do this now by simply moving a couple baffles. That would give me submerged, trickle and fluidized all in the same system. Everyone says you have to pick a system and go with it.. that’s BS. By simply picking proper baffle heights for each chamber you can do anything you want.
Thanks for the interesting video. I'm considering using a moving bed filter. Or a wet dry filter. But I heard that a dry wet filter causes the co2 to escape from the water. And that's why you can't use this filter in a plant aquarium. Is that true? And is this also true for a moving bed filter. Can an artificial supplement compensate for the loss?
I run 2 liter bottles of k1 media X 2 with some bio home in the bottom just to weight the bottles down. My canister filter has only filter pads as I fully trust in the k1 and don't need extra media in it. I've tried every media from bihome, marine pure, ceramic rings, plastic bioballs. K1 IS THE BEST
Jay thanks for this videos they are helpfull, i have a doub about the kind of filtration media wich is Better for a Wet Dry filter do you have some information about it? Saludos from Mexico
How does a fully sealed and therefore submerged media moving-bed filter have any more O2 than a canister filter assuming the same level of O2 in the aquarium water? You're not pumping any air into that moving bed so how can it have more O2? I can see the point in large water treatment facilities where the moving bed is open to the air and it gets loads of air pumped through it ie, it's not in a sealed container but any moving bed filter I've seen for aquariums are sealed chambers therefore, they will have the same issue as canisters as regards O2 levels. A fluidised bed filter reactor chamber is just a canister filter with media that's small enough to be mobile under water flow. It has an advantage in self cleaning it's surface, but no advantage regarding O2 levels in the water. To get the bonus O2 advantage, the fludised bed would need to be open to the atmosphere and have air pumped through it with the water. That's probably only suitable if you have a sump.
all water has oxygen, the lower the water movement is the less oxygen. All heat [plays a part. faster moving water carry more oxygen. Adding an agitation to the water will help the water to release more oxygen gases. Even in a sealed system oxygen can be produce. The faster the agitation the high the level of oxygen released.
With fluidized sand filters however you seal the container like a canister and pump water in to generate motion. Where is all the air gonna come from if the intake pump is submerged? It becomes a fluidized submerged filter then and not sure if it's any more efficient.
you dont need air in the filter. oxygen is dissolved in water. sand fluidization requires high flow and that means you are pumping large amounts of oxygenated water into the filter.
Jay's aquarium Yes but in your video you state it is more efficient than a submerged filter because of more oxygen available. Assuming the same flow rate for both types, I don’t see where it is more efficient than a submerged filter unless the fluidized filter has internal aeration.
Fluidised material like K1 offer very little surface area when comparing With wet dry filtering material. Therefore it will not have sufficient room for bacterial to live
Jay great explanation i want to use you'r video with my student but i have to translate it so they can understand it. can you give me permission to write subtitle in Hebrew or to make a copy of it translated to Hebrew?
Nice explanation Jay. Small clarification , Currently I am designing a filter ( out door) for my indoor Aquarium ( 6' x 2' x 2') . i am planning to use all 3 categories of filters for this , Submerged , tickle & fluidized filters for this. What will be the preferred, sequence for this ? Pls advise,
Well, think of how the cycle goes... Converting ammonia into nitrates requires oxygen, so first, you'll want the high oxygen filter (I would just pick one, either the fluidized or the trickle, not both). After that, the nitrate needs to be converted back into a gas, so that's where you use the low oxygen filter (submerged). Actually, check out Jay's videos on denitrification and anoxic conditions required for it, he is most educational. Also, if you look up Kevin Novak's videos on Biocenosis Clarification Baskets (BCB) you'll find that he doesn't pump the water through the filter, but instead, around it. The filtration or denitrification happens through ionic exchanges (I think). He has a BCB in his Koi pond that's still good after 30 years, talk about low maintenance. You'll want to design the system so the pre-filter (mechanical filter) is what requires the most maintenance. Then, your other filters will do good left alone so as to not screw up the bacterial colonies within them. Hope that all made sense.
Exelent explanation...one question...if i run a sump with ceramic rings in one compartment and want to set another compartment with fluidized media...then.. is it convenient to set first que lower oxigenated filter process like submerged ceramic rings (ir something similar) and have a somewhat anoxic filtration and in second place the fluidized so that more oxigenated water goes back to the main tank...or the other way arround or am i understanding the process wrong...please advise ...thanks
Or you could just watch it for what it is and appreciate the time and effort hes taken to make all his videos .if he had to cater to muppets like you moaning about a pen ,no videos would get made lol bunch of snowflakes!
Thanks Jay for your vids. I remember another youtuber, which is using a lot fluidized, who said that fluidized is very efficient because the media as is acting as a carbon source for the bacteria. He also mentioned that it is consumed quite rapidly. As sand can be used as fluidized media, I imagine it is less efficient or need a carbon source to be efficient. Do you have any idea about it ?
xamax4 I have not seen a fluidized media that can act as a carbon source. Not sure what that other youtuber is talking about. The problem with sand is not the carbon source. Sand is harder to fluidize bacause its heavy. Much easier to use stuff designed for fluidized filters
@@Jaysaquarium please tell us how to do anaerobic filtration in a tank with fluidized filter..my source water has high nitrates and i cant reduce it..pls help
I'm honestly kinda lost. I currently have a submerged sump filter. I have turtles and my current sump cannot keep up with them. So I am wondering if a fluidized filter was better? cause my turtles produce a lot of waste and even with weekly water changes of 50% the water still is not clear and needs fully replaced once every 2 months.
maybe your current media is not the best and you could optimize your current system by using more and better media, such as perlite or even better; seachen matrix. Fluidized wont give you the anoxic cycle allowing to reduce NO3.
Officially Tielo Water clarity has nothing to do with nitrogen cycle and you should never ever change more then 65% of your water at the extreme limit. 25-50% is ideal. Even then it’s based on nitrates not clarity of the water. If your water is cloudy you either have a bacterial bloom or lack of fine filtering. Most likely it’s a bacterial bloom from over feeding. Everyone over feeds. Get a 9watt green killing machine UV filter.. that will clear up bacterial blooms in a couple days depending on tank size. Smaller tanks it will clear faster. Second add an air stone on the far side of the tank from your return line. This will help with oxygenation, surface film, as well as keeping particles suspended till it can get back to your filter intake. The third thing you can and should do is add Polly filter to your filtering. It will pull out fine particles. If none of the above works.. stop using tap water to clean your filter media as the cloudiness is your tank constantly cycling cause you keep killing off the good bacteria. Always clean filtering media with tank water.
You'll want a pre-filter (mechanical filtration) to trap solids. Go watch part 2 of this series. He speaks of how a mechanical filter should be set up (from course sponge, to medium sponge, to fine sponge) to minimize maintenance and keep solids from getting trapped in your biological fluidized filter... The fluidized filter is for aerobic biological filtration. Don't combine your mechanical filtration with your biological filtration, no just don't. You'll want to do your best to avoid having any solids in the biological filter, not just to minimize the maintenance, but also, so that you don't screw up your aerobic bacterial colony. The more you clean the pre-filter, the less decomposition you'll end up within your system. Hope that all made sense.
Outstanding once again! Please try to share your videos everywhere...they are truly unique and one of a kind...no one explains aquariums, filtration, etc as we as you do...
Thanks :)
Cory from Aquarium co-op need to share this series! Awesome information. Can't belive you dont have ???k of subs. your did a awesome job on this ! , thanks so much!
Thanks for the detailed information. Great vid.
Thanks Jay, great series of videos!!
Thank you Jay! Most precise and informative video I've found after searching youtube for days
oxygen is the limiting factor! thanks for sharing 👍
Thank you so much for your time and energy. Simple explanations help me to understand some filters that I knew about but did not understand how and why they worked. Now it is crystal clear. I love your style. The sound of your gentle voice and the sound the marker besides the brilliance of having drawn illustrations all ready to go. All round a brilliant display. Please do some live streams. That would be great!!
Wow ! I came by after searching for moving bed filter ! Nice and simple video but lot of information in it ! Thanks !!
Nice real-world description. I am interested in how each type performs with short power-outages.
Jay thanks, I'm new at this and your Basics 1-3 was so enlighting. Now I can set up my filtration system with confidence that it will be done right.
Excellent Explanation. Very detailed and easy to understand....!
Thanks for explanation in simple terms keep going
AWESOME,AWESOME VIDEO THANK YOU SOOOOO MUCH FOR SHARING IT
Awesome video, perfect explanation. Greetings from Brazil.
Great Video, Thank you very much Jay.
Your explanation videos are superb, thanks so much!
Awesome video very informative 👍
Outsanding ! Thanks Jay, your videos have the most clear explanation I have seen so far on TH-cam. Just one request though...please switch to another kind of pen that does not make that screechy sound when you write....gives the very unpleasant feeling of fingernails scratching a wall 😖
Srry my video making skills were primitive. Im thinking about re making this series with better visuals and editing
Really great video.
Hey I learned something 👍 good videos
Amazing info mate
You are a natural teacher Jay, do you teach the sciences for a living?
no. but I majored biology in college
Thank you.
FYI: "Anoxic" refers to an environment that lacks oxygen whereas "anaerobic" refers to an organism or process that doesn't require oxygen.
Great Video, thanks for the explanation, very helpful and well done.
Its very useful, thank you very much👌🙏
Whoop loving these!! 🦐
Jay wet dry is not limited and neither is fluidized... simple adjustment of baffles fixes all issues. I run a submerged 55g sump that has two fluidized chambers as well as a low flow chamber for nitrate consumption. By simply using different baffle heights you can use any type of filtering at any time wo sacrifice. The only downfall of wet/dry (and the reason I don’t use it on my sump) is you lose a lot of water capacity due to all the air. My intake comes down to a fluidized bioball chamber. (Intake is low in chamber and baffle high) I like bioballs for capturing detritus not for filtering. The water then spills over to a bubble baffle high then low setup. From there I run k1 media with 1 air stone 6” Long. The water then spills over another bubble wall baffle setup where I have biomedia. This area is 17” lone but split in half with an almost full height baffle. The second half runs my nitrate chamber. Because it’s one chamber with bottom intake under baffle and overflow baffle on the other side.. by having a split wall in the middle I get tons of bypass which results in low flow for the nitrate chamber. From there I run yet another bubble wall baffle setup to my return pump.
Point I’m getting to is with proper planning you could run all three types of filtering in any given setup at the same time. I would actually prefer to do a trickle over my bioballs and remove my k1 and replace with Something else... but I won’t give up the 15 gallons or so of water I’d lose. Ideally I’d run trickle over balls, followed by smaller k1 chamber, followed by some quality media then a big cheato chamber. I could very well do this now by simply moving a couple baffles. That would give me submerged, trickle and fluidized all in the same system. Everyone says you have to pick a system and go with it.. that’s BS. By simply picking proper baffle heights for each chamber you can do anything you want.
Awesome information, subscribed!
Thank you for sharing this information!
Also: O2 has low solubility in water, because it is a nonpolar molecule in a polar solvent.
Thanks for the interesting video. I'm considering using a moving bed filter. Or a wet dry filter. But I heard that a dry wet filter causes the co2 to escape from the water. And that's why you can't use this filter in a plant aquarium. Is that true? And is this also true for a moving bed filter. Can an artificial supplement compensate for the loss?
hello jay may i ask what is the best media for fluidized/moving bed filters ? k1 micro k1 or bio ball ... ?
I run 2 liter bottles of k1 media X 2 with some bio home in the bottom just to weight the bottles down. My canister filter has only filter pads as I fully trust in the k1 and don't need extra media in it. I've tried every media from bihome, marine pure, ceramic rings, plastic bioballs. K1 IS THE BEST
Have u tried fluidized sand bed filter?
Jay thanks for this videos they are helpfull, i have a doub about the kind of filtration media wich is Better for a Wet Dry filter do you have some information about it? Saludos from Mexico
How does a fully sealed and therefore submerged media moving-bed filter have any more O2 than a canister filter assuming the same level of O2 in the aquarium water? You're not pumping any air into that moving bed so how can it have more O2?
I can see the point in large water treatment facilities where the moving bed is open to the air and it gets loads of air pumped through it ie, it's not in a sealed container but any moving bed filter I've seen for aquariums are sealed chambers therefore, they will have the same issue as canisters as regards O2 levels.
A fluidised bed filter reactor chamber is just a canister filter with media that's small enough to be mobile under water flow.
It has an advantage in self cleaning it's surface, but no advantage regarding O2 levels in the water.
To get the bonus O2 advantage, the fludised bed would need to be open to the atmosphere and have air pumped through it with the water. That's probably only suitable if you have a sump.
all water has oxygen, the lower the water movement is the less oxygen. All heat [plays a part. faster moving water carry more oxygen. Adding an agitation to the water will help the water to release more oxygen gases. Even in a sealed system oxygen can be produce. The faster the agitation the high the level of oxygen released.
With fluidized sand filters however you seal the container like a canister and pump water in to generate motion. Where is all the air gonna come from if the intake pump is submerged? It becomes a fluidized submerged filter then and not sure if it's any more efficient.
you dont need air in the filter. oxygen is dissolved in water. sand fluidization requires high flow and that means you are pumping large amounts of oxygenated water into the filter.
Jay's aquarium Yes but in your video you state it is more efficient than a submerged filter because of more oxygen available. Assuming the same flow rate for both types, I don’t see where it is more efficient than a submerged filter unless the fluidized filter has internal aeration.
Fluidised material like K1 offer very little surface area when comparing
With wet dry filtering material. Therefore it will not have sufficient room for bacterial to live
Great series. How much k1 will I need for 375 gallons?
What exactly, in this context, are you calling efficiency. Does electricity consumption come into it?
I think he was mostly focused on the bioload they could handle, not electrical consumption, but great question!
Jay great explanation i want to use you'r video with my student but i have to translate it so they can understand it. can you give me permission
to write subtitle in Hebrew or to make a copy of it translated to Hebrew?
Sure. Go ahead
Nice explanation Jay. Small clarification , Currently I am designing a filter ( out door) for my indoor Aquarium ( 6' x 2' x 2') . i am planning to use all 3 categories of filters for this , Submerged , tickle & fluidized filters for this. What will be the preferred, sequence for this ? Pls advise,
Well, think of how the cycle goes... Converting ammonia into nitrates requires oxygen, so first, you'll want the high oxygen filter (I would just pick one, either the fluidized or the trickle, not both). After that, the nitrate needs to be converted back into a gas, so that's where you use the low oxygen filter (submerged). Actually, check out Jay's videos on denitrification and anoxic conditions required for it, he is most educational. Also, if you look up Kevin Novak's videos on Biocenosis Clarification Baskets (BCB) you'll find that he doesn't pump the water through the filter, but instead, around it. The filtration or denitrification happens through ionic exchanges (I think). He has a BCB in his Koi pond that's still good after 30 years, talk about low maintenance. You'll want to design the system so the pre-filter (mechanical filter) is what requires the most maintenance. Then, your other filters will do good left alone so as to not screw up the bacterial colonies within them. Hope that all made sense.
gréât video
If submerged is low efficient, then why external canister is being commercialized that much?
Max efficiency isnt for everyone. Submerged systems are usually more convenient to build.
Exelent explanation...one question...if i run a sump with ceramic rings in one compartment and want to set another compartment with fluidized media...then.. is it convenient to set first que lower oxigenated filter process like submerged ceramic rings (ir something similar) and have a somewhat anoxic filtration and in second place the fluidized so that more oxigenated water goes back to the main tank...or the other way arround or am i understanding the process wrong...please advise ...thanks
Yup even i was thinking about this
Very nice information here however may I suggest using a marker that does not produce cringing sound?
Or you could just watch it for what it is and appreciate the time and effort hes taken to make all his videos .if he had to cater to muppets like you moaning about a pen ,no videos would get made lol bunch of snowflakes!
Marineland filters although they are submerged the bio wheels increase the oxygen efficiency correct?
Thanks Jay for your vids. I remember another youtuber, which is using a lot fluidized, who said that fluidized is very efficient because the media as is acting as a carbon source for the bacteria. He also mentioned that it is consumed quite rapidly. As sand can be used as fluidized media, I imagine it is less efficient or need a carbon source to be efficient. Do you have any idea about it ?
xamax4 I have not seen a fluidized media that can act as a carbon source. Not sure what that other youtuber is talking about. The problem with sand is not the carbon source. Sand is harder to fluidize bacause its heavy. Much easier to use stuff designed for fluidized filters
@@Jaysaquarium please tell us how to do anaerobic filtration in a tank with fluidized filter..my source water has high nitrates and i cant reduce it..pls help
Trickles only matters if you have large fish in large tanks. Yeah right. Are you making this up as you go.
Nope
I am disappointed that I have a over sump dfilter
I'm honestly kinda lost. I currently have a submerged sump filter.
I have turtles and my current sump cannot keep up with them.
So I am wondering if a fluidized filter was better?
cause my turtles produce a lot of waste and even with weekly water changes of 50% the water still is not clear and needs fully replaced once every 2 months.
try fluidized purigen to make your water crystal clear
th-cam.com/video/KQBlqoS7ZqQ/w-d-xo.html
Kiss Me Baby ok. I'll look into it. Thanks
ur welcome :)
maybe your current media is not the best and you could optimize your current system by using more and better media, such as perlite or even better; seachen matrix. Fluidized wont give you the anoxic cycle allowing to reduce NO3.
Officially Tielo Water clarity has nothing to do with nitrogen cycle and you should never ever change more then 65% of your water at the extreme limit. 25-50% is ideal. Even then it’s based on nitrates not clarity of the water. If your water is cloudy you either have a bacterial bloom or lack of fine filtering. Most likely it’s a bacterial bloom from over feeding. Everyone over feeds. Get a 9watt green killing machine UV filter.. that will clear up bacterial blooms in a couple days depending on tank size. Smaller tanks it will clear faster. Second add an air stone on the far side of the tank from your return line. This will help with oxygenation, surface film, as well as keeping particles suspended till it can get back to your filter intake. The third thing you can and should do is add Polly filter to your filtering. It will pull out fine particles.
If none of the above works.. stop using tap water to clean your filter media as the cloudiness is your tank constantly cycling cause you keep killing off the good bacteria. Always clean filtering media with tank water.
low oxygen is needed to convert nitrates you need all three types of filtration to complete the cycle
how to do anaerobic filtratoin?
At 3:06 you put the lone pair of elections on the nitrite N, but then left the nitrate N hanging. Lol.
How much k 1 per 100 litres please
does the fluidized filter effectively trap solids?
You'll want a pre-filter (mechanical filtration) to trap solids. Go watch part 2 of this series. He speaks of how a mechanical filter should be set up (from course sponge, to medium sponge, to fine sponge) to minimize maintenance and keep solids from getting trapped in your biological fluidized filter... The fluidized filter is for aerobic biological filtration. Don't combine your mechanical filtration with your biological filtration, no just don't. You'll want to do your best to avoid having any solids in the biological filter, not just to minimize the maintenance, but also, so that you don't screw up your aerobic bacterial colony. The more you clean the pre-filter, the less decomposition you'll end up within your system. Hope that all made sense.
Hi Jay, I have been reading that fluidised beds can also reduce nitrates. Since this is a high flow filter, does this make sense?
same space, wet dry best.