Thanks so much for sharing your experience in detail. I was pretty sure just from the title of the video what the primary issue was. I had some similar struggles with those types of products. My truck is at least 1/3 bare metal. As such, I need to protect it from moisture. Over the past couple of years I've had to sand off surface rust and re-apply a wipe on coating at least 4 times. The 1st 3 times I used something that was ready to go, no mixing. This last go round, I used that same product AND a 2 part coating. For my situation, the primary problem has been contamination on the metal, causing it to flash rust. Each time that I've had to re-apply has been a learning experience. 1) Those wipe on pads are the worst! I don't understand why they include those in the kit or why any company selling a similar product would recommend any type of cotton cloth. Last year, I discovered that a new, dry, "streak free" glass cleaner wipe leaves behind little to no lint. I also noticed a bit of a smoother finish. It doesn't do any good to start with a super, super clean surface just to end up with fuzz left behind from whatever you use to apply a coating. 2) temp and humidity are a factor for sure. Especially over bare metal. That stuff will trap the moisture from the air. 3) As to the pot life and working time of the 2 part product, I used half the amount of activator. It was quite a bit easier to work with. The downside to that is that over time, it may not be as durable. Idk. What I do know is that after almost a year (and minimal exposure to rain and snow), this last application has held up well.
You're correct, a change in mixture ratio should stop the immediate flash off, but I'd rather just have a less aggressive catalyst. As far as applicators go, a tightly folded microfiber would work better... heck anything would have worked better! Thanks for watching and sharing your experience!
I watched this video before wiping on my poppy’s land yacht setup on my 1972 f250. I agree with your concern about the supplied staining pads. I bought some different pads from Home Depot and found they were higher quality and didn’t leave lint. I mixed per instructions and wiped the material on. There are a couple runs here and there, but the trick turned out just like in the promotional videos. My truck turned out great. (I wet sanded and feathered any flaky areas before applying clear coat)
I have had my share of paint products that didn’t work. No fun. My brother’s F-150 was in the same situation as that truck was in. I decided to skip it all and just bought a gallon of single stage enamel and we scuffed and shot it in a weekend.
We had the same experience. It’s junk, total junk. And they make the sauce that Vice Grip Garage sells. I’m waiting for the class action suit to be filed. It’s…..horrible.
Honestly. I don’t understand how these wipe on clear company’s can not figure out how to slow the cure time and allow for an actual settling of the clear instead of the paint strokes. I get that it would likely run on the sides but hell, anything is better then the brush strokes! Haha thank you for the video man.
@@NoblesTx agreed. Some experimentation as @ericnewman9598 suggests may have acceptable results. But a dude better due a LOT of trial and errors before the main event!
Greetings: I am not a body guy, however I learn much from very skilled Pros. That said I C application and product problems. I agree with U. Thx 4 the share. Bsafe.
There’s a reason Derek from VGG only sprays this stuff on now. He’s done one wipe-on project that I’ve seen, everything else has been spray out. Wonder why?
It looks like you re-wiped areas you already applied. Which in my understanding is a big no no. Cannot go over an area you already applied which is exactly what you did. You failed not the product.
@@Truthman99 nope. To strip and paint this truck correctly would have cost our customer 8-10k, maybe more. That being said, future jobs like this will get a spray clear from a reputable paint dealer. Too bad this stuff doesn’t work as advertised.
🤷♂️ man , for 1000$ and all of that work it’s not what one would expect and you leaving that sticker residue on it after doing all of that work and spending all of that money was pure lazy and lack of integrity for your work
Thanks so much for sharing your experience in detail. I was pretty sure just from the title of the video what the primary issue was. I had some similar struggles with those types of products. My truck is at least 1/3 bare metal. As such, I need to protect it from moisture. Over the past couple of years I've had to sand off surface rust and re-apply a wipe on coating at least 4 times. The 1st 3 times I used something that was ready to go, no mixing. This last go round, I used that same product AND a 2 part coating. For my situation, the primary problem has been contamination on the metal, causing it to flash rust. Each time that I've had to re-apply has been a learning experience. 1) Those wipe on pads are the worst! I don't understand why they include those in the kit or why any company selling a similar product would recommend any type of cotton cloth. Last year, I discovered that a new, dry, "streak free" glass cleaner wipe leaves behind little to no lint. I also noticed a bit of a smoother finish. It doesn't do any good to start with a super, super clean surface just to end up with fuzz left behind from whatever you use to apply a coating. 2) temp and humidity are a factor for sure. Especially over bare metal. That stuff will trap the moisture from the air. 3) As to the pot life and working time of the 2 part product, I used half the amount of activator. It was quite a bit easier to work with. The downside to that is that over time, it may not be as durable. Idk. What I do know is that after almost a year (and minimal exposure to rain and snow), this last application has held up well.
You're correct, a change in mixture ratio should stop the immediate flash off, but I'd rather just have a less aggressive catalyst. As far as applicators go, a tightly folded microfiber would work better... heck anything would have worked better! Thanks for watching and sharing your experience!
I watched this video before wiping on my poppy’s land yacht setup on my 1972 f250. I agree with your concern about the supplied staining pads. I bought some different pads from Home Depot and found they were higher quality and didn’t leave lint. I mixed per instructions and wiped the material on. There are a couple runs here and there, but the trick turned out just like in the promotional videos. My truck turned out great. (I wet sanded and feathered any flaky areas before applying clear coat)
I have had my share of paint products that didn’t work. No fun.
My brother’s F-150 was in the same situation as that truck was in. I decided to skip it all and just bought a gallon of single stage enamel and we scuffed and shot it in a weekend.
We had the same experience. It’s junk, total junk. And they make the sauce that Vice Grip Garage sells. I’m waiting for the class action suit to be filed. It’s…..horrible.
Yikes
Honestly. I don’t understand how these wipe on clear company’s can not figure out how to slow the cure time and allow for an actual settling of the clear instead of the paint strokes. I get that it would likely run on the sides but hell, anything is better then the brush strokes! Haha thank you for the video man.
@@NoblesTx agreed. Some experimentation as @ericnewman9598 suggests may have acceptable results. But a dude better due a LOT of trial and errors before the main event!
Greetings: Finally some1 else who labels it as it is properly...a box. Thx 4 the share. Bsafe.
Greetings: I am not a body guy, however I learn much from very skilled Pros. That said I C application and product problems. I agree with U. Thx 4 the share. Bsafe.
Thank you !
@@freedom1garage Greetings: U R welcome sir.
Greetings: I am glad U have knowledge and pride of Ur work. So many do not. Much respect. Thx 4 the share. Bsafe.
Thank you! And thanks for watching our stuff!
Later this fall I’m going to be doing my first paint job on my work truck going with a single stage root beer….
You’re welcome to come help
If by help ya mean watch ya work, sure thing!
I got the same results lots of brush strokes
I had the same issues when I applied it to my mustang. I had it sanded and smooth then applied and ended up having to re sand the entire car.
Sorry to hear this. Hopefully you got things smoothed out to where you are happy. Thanks for the comment!
There’s a reason Derek from VGG only sprays this stuff on now. He’s done one wipe-on project that I’ve seen, everything else has been spray out. Wonder why?
Yup
Same trouble on a 1973 vette
Sorry to hear that, Bill. Thank you for the comment.
If you wet sanded it would look way better!
I've never been able to appreciate this patina craze...unless you're building a rat rod.
How did visible rust become "cool"??? I just don't get it.
We like patina and it makes "restoration" much more affordable. GOOD finish body and paint work is tens of thousands of dollars.
It’s funny cause I did this to my car that’s not even patina lol it had decent clear coat and I just made it shinier
@@Alexautopaintglasscoatings were you happy with the final result?
@@jandyallday so far it’s good, it’s nice because for me it’s just adding clear coat to my clear coat I already have. More protection and shinier too
It looks like you re-wiped areas you already applied. Which in my understanding is a big no no. Cannot go over an area you already applied which is exactly what you did. You failed not the product.
@@jandyallday looks like you didn’t absorb the content of the video. Send us a link to your successful wipe-on video. I double dog dare ya.
@@freedom1garage ok i will lol
Not for nothing.... But with that amount of time and work into that truck you could have just painted it normally.
@@Truthman99 nope. To strip and paint this truck correctly would have cost our customer 8-10k, maybe more. That being said, future jobs like this will get a spray clear from a reputable paint dealer. Too bad this stuff doesn’t work as advertised.
@freedom1garage Yeah that makes sense.
That's not the factory clear coat, you can easily see that the clear never fuse with the paint under.
Yes it is. A very common issue with GM.
🤷♂️ man , for 1000$ and all of that work it’s not what one would expect and you leaving that sticker residue on it after doing all of that work and spending all of that money was pure lazy and lack of integrity for your work
Sticker residue. You're funny. It's the faded paint after the residue was removed.
@@freedom1garage then I stand corrected and I apologize
It's all good.