Great video and diagram 0:59... Note bike fully on its own weight, 2:50... Set at about 6 cm... (Stretched to lowest and measured to topside of chain) 3:18.. diagram (seems very clear)
I haven’t adjusted a chain since 1984! 😳 I’ve been riding shaft drive beemers 😁 Was probably time to relearn… Thanks for the comment and enjoy the DR. They are awesome bikes.
@@lifelongmotorcyclingI’m NOT speaking from experience but it might help stop the slippage to take the slack out of the chain before tightening. Running a rag between the chain and sprocket should do.
@@GertySam I think I understand your point - might be more effort than it's worth to try and jam a rag in! Once you have done this operation a few times it gets easier. But your comment is noted :) Thanks for watching.
Why do people doing videos always have the bike on a lift to do this? The proper way is on the side stand. There’s a big difference in slack from in a lift to in the kickstand.
You are correct on the "proper" way to do it. The owners manual says put it on it's side stand (page 6-24 if I recall correctly 😀). This will move the bike up to a minimum sag position, if not zero sag. This will be the slackest your chain can be. As you move weight off the stand the bike will sag and the chain will tighten. However, you are incorrect on the "big difference". Example for my bike today: - On side stand: 56.5mm swinging arm to chain - On lift: 55mm swinging arm to chain I use the lift because it's easier to access and adjust when the bike is upright. Obviously on the road you have no other option. Note in the video I DO NOT jack the bike up high on the stand (but that would get it closer to the side stand position!). I simply stand the bike up for access, wind up the jack until it barely touches the bash plate so the bike is just balanced to support it, tie off either side so it doesn't fall over, set minimum distance from swinging arm to chain. Whatever works for you...👍😀 Thanks for your comment.
@@lifelongmotorcycling do you press down on the bike to cycle the suspension when measuring from one to the other. Considering proper chain slack is only in the range of 1.2-1.8”, or 30-45mm, even a small difference can be a big difference, but as long as it’s more in the slack side than tight, it’s all good
@@michaelhefford6420 I don't do that and I went out to check on my bike and it makes no difference. Maybe because I have my suspension set up right. On the sidestand the bike should be at maximum height. Just lift the bike up a bit and let it go. You probably can't lift it up any and it won't sag much (unless you have the original weak spring). Similarly when upright - Lift up and it drops to spring supported position, push it down and it rises to spring supported position. As long as you are in the range of 30-45mm you will be ok. 👍
Nope, wrong. Sit on bike backwards, grab swingarm with left arm and pull swingarm to level with axles or to tightest point and check tension. It should be tight but some flex, if tight loosen, if slack tighten. Perfect, every time.
Technically 100% correct. Practically 0% correct! Can't recall Suzuki engineers stating this technique but just to make sure I had another read of the manual 😀 Thanks for the comment and watching...
@@lifelongmotorcycling just remember my technique works on any bike with chain without measuring or looking up manual for a recommended point to check chain tension and all that is difficult to measure and difficult to get right, but do it my way and you get it right every time on every bike and never cook your seals, bearings, counter shaft, sprockets, and chain. By the way, I am an engineer
Just put three fingers between the swing arm and chain at that point and your done, works for all dirt bikes, have a blessed evening
Depends how fat your fingers are 😀
Interestingly mines are exactly 60cm 😳
Great video and diagram
0:59... Note bike fully on its own weight,
2:50... Set at about 6 cm... (Stretched to lowest and measured to topside of chain)
3:18.. diagram (seems very clear)
Good summary...remember to check that 6cm works for your bike. DRs are notoriously modified so just check it's right for your bike.
@@lifelongmotorcycling okay thanks very much
Thanks mate the easiest way no bullshit way I’ve seen, cheers
Thanks mate...I always look for the easiest and simplest way to do things. Thanks for the comment...
Very helpful,
I’m new to chains.
Just picked up a 2018 DR650 last week.
I haven’t adjusted a chain since 1984! 😳 I’ve been riding shaft drive beemers 😁 Was probably time to relearn…
Thanks for the comment and enjoy the DR. They are awesome bikes.
I was looking for this.. thanks!
No worries mate. 😀👍
Thanks! Nice tutorial. I really don't like the cam style adjuster that is on the DR.
I don't like them either - they tend to slip when you go to tighten up the axle. Maybe there is a trick to doing them.
@@lifelongmotorcyclingI’m NOT speaking from experience but it might help stop the slippage to take the slack out of the chain before tightening. Running a rag between the chain and sprocket should do.
@@GertySam This is the solution that I needed.
@@GertySam I think I understand your point - might be more effort than it's worth to try and jam a rag in! Once you have done this operation a few times it gets easier. But your comment is noted :) Thanks for watching.
Why do people doing videos always have the bike on a lift to do this? The proper way is on the side stand. There’s a big difference in slack from in a lift to in the kickstand.
You are correct on the "proper" way to do it.
The owners manual says put it on it's side stand (page 6-24 if I recall correctly 😀). This will move the bike up to a minimum sag position, if not zero sag. This will be the slackest your chain can be. As you move weight off the stand the bike will sag and the chain will tighten.
However, you are incorrect on the "big difference". Example for my bike today:
- On side stand: 56.5mm swinging arm to chain
- On lift: 55mm swinging arm to chain
I use the lift because it's easier to access and adjust when the bike is upright. Obviously on the road you have no other option.
Note in the video I DO NOT jack the bike up high on the stand (but that would get it closer to the side stand position!). I simply stand the bike up for access, wind up the jack until it barely touches the bash plate so the bike is just balanced to support it, tie off either side so it doesn't fall over, set minimum distance from swinging arm to chain.
Whatever works for you...👍😀
Thanks for your comment.
@@lifelongmotorcycling do you press down on the bike to cycle the suspension when measuring from one to the other. Considering proper chain slack is only in the range of 1.2-1.8”, or 30-45mm, even a small difference can be a big difference, but as long as it’s more in the slack side than tight, it’s all good
@@michaelhefford6420 I don't do that and I went out to check on my bike and it makes no difference. Maybe because I have my suspension set up right.
On the sidestand the bike should be at maximum height. Just lift the bike up a bit and let it go. You probably can't lift it up any and it won't sag much (unless you have the original weak spring).
Similarly when upright - Lift up and it drops to spring supported position, push it down and it rises to spring supported position.
As long as you are in the range of 30-45mm you will be ok. 👍
Nope, wrong. Sit on bike backwards, grab swingarm with left arm and pull swingarm to level with axles or to tightest point and check tension. It should be tight but some flex, if tight loosen, if slack tighten. Perfect, every time.
Technically 100% correct. Practically 0% correct! Can't recall Suzuki engineers stating this technique but just to make sure I had another read of the manual 😀
Thanks for the comment and watching...
@@lifelongmotorcycling just remember my technique works on any bike with chain without measuring or looking up manual for a recommended point to check chain tension and all that is difficult to measure and difficult to get right, but do it my way and you get it right every time on every bike and never cook your seals, bearings, counter shaft, sprockets, and chain. By the way, I am an engineer
@@stubabyfuora5280 Thanks...as noted theoretically correct, but practically hard. I'm also an engineer: two degrees and 40 years 😀
Typical engineers 😆
@@NLEAST Bias and prejudice, and name calling, are you a democrat?