Johnson 9.9 with a big secret part 2 the assembly
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.ย. 2024
- We are putting the 15 hp Johnson back together with a few upgrades. Watch and see what they are. We also convert this short shaft to a long shaft.
Merchandise link below
/ @michaelsbackyardmarina
When mounting the foil, mount the screw truss heads on the bottom with the lock nuts on top the foil. With the nuts on bottom there is the probability of cavitation as a low pressure point will occur on the downstream side of the nut. You would never see evidence on the stainless prop, but it would show as pocks in the paint and metal on a painted aluminum prop. As speed increases there comes a loss of performance and cavitation vibration will be transferred throughout the unit, especially in larger, faster rigs.
Just got a "new to me" 1988 Evinrude 9.9 that came (free) with a 1448 jon boat I bought. Once I get the jon boat cleaned, sealed up, and decked I'll be trying to get the 9.9 up and running. I'm a outboard rookie but worked on motorcycle engines as a kid, 2 and 4 stroke, so I'm not totally lost. I've saved your videos and I know they will make my job a heck of a lot easier. Thank you for taking the time to create these hands on lessons.
Great video! My '91 Evinrude 9.9 isn't running great. Idles decent but slow to power up and is running super rich. Things to do: 1. set the roller as you described 2: check the gap on the plugs. Oh, and sweet prop!!!
Thanks for sharing
I love the smell of 2 cycle in the morning!! Memories...
My Dad was a sales manager for Johnson in the 50"s 60"s, and 70's. I always had 9.9"s and 15 h.p's to run as a kid.
I totally agree Petec! I also loved the Mercury's
I've been looking for a video like this for about a year and this morning your first video popped up thanks. I've had a carb kit sitting for a year and wondered about all this other stuff thanks!
Great job on the outboard and the video.
Scroll to 11:54 and look at the bolts on the fin. Fronts and backs on the same sides. Just think of all the extra drag...you'll be driving in circles! lol ;)
I have to say thanks I have a seahorse 15 HP that was supposedly serviced by a professional but after your videos I found that they did nothing. I can’t get boat to go over 6 miles an hour. Further investigation on my part per your videos I found spark plugs loose and not tight at all. Found slippage coming out both plugs on top of that gap was 24 instead of 40. Only thing right was plug required for motor. I did my own blend of sea foam to 2 gallons of fuel. I added 12 ounces to the fuel and ran the motor for 3 1/2 hours. It shook and skipped and wined for about 30 minutes. When it was all said and done the motor purr’s like a kitten now and the idile mixtiure switch now works great. Can’t wait to get it back to the lake to try it out. Thanks again
Found sipping that is
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Great two videos. Wonderful to see a man who knows what he's doing. I learned a lot. Thanks times two.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks Michael, I quite enjoyed your videos and it’s great to hear your encouragement of people to get out and have a go. All the best mate
Thanks 👍
Great videos! I have an '89 15hp Johnson on a 14' aluminum 1970's Lund boat. It's my first boat and motor. Your information is well received and appreciated. Super helpful. Thank you!
Glad to help
Great job, Michael! I' recently got a 6HP Johnson (tuned down from 7.5HP) from 1986 that needs all the work you showed on this motor. I'm sure your video will help me a lot, thanks and greets from Germany!
That is awesome!
Michael I suggest that if you put a knot called a 'cow hitch' with a half hitch below it in the pull cord around the dowel pin in the pull start handle, the pin should sit flatter in the slot with the cord best aligned to the hole through the handle.
Love this video. Saved me from thowing my 75 Evinrude away. Now it purrs like a kitten. Thanks very much.
Glad it helped
Great video(s). Lots of good information. Your detailed explanations of certain processes were great, it enabled a "thick headed" person such as myself, to understand.
Thank you sir.
Awesome, thank you!
I have no earthly idea how i found your channel but after watching these 2 episodes i subscribed. great content although I am not a boat guy but your passion for these old motors shows, Thanks.
Awesome, thank you! Welcome aboard. Hopefully I can keep you entertained.
I don't know why, but when you put it into gear and revved it up, I swear I could smell 2-stroke exhaust. Must be PTSD when we were fishing and you were running 50:1 on that first tank and the exhaust made my lips tingle, lol. Good memories
Funny you should say that, I could smell it when I was editing the video. It an awesome smell.
I've been looking for a video just like this one pertaining to the same motor I'm working on. This video gave me hope to keep the motor instead of trading it in for a honda. Thank you so much.
Jasper Buenavista tut4
Couldn't find the video where you asked for comments on what we thought problem with 9.9 dying was, so here I am. Something I thought of and someone else brought up, didn't see you adjust drop, or float level. You leveled it, but I bet if you reset the drop it may solve your problem. Worth a free try before you buy a new carb.
here is the video. Drop your comment there.
th-cam.com/video/whuVJDjut-Y/w-d-xo.html
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina I suggested you buy a new carburetor since you had already bought and tried two rebuild kits. Something that someone else mentioned and I caught was the fact that you didn't set the float drop. You made sure it was level, but you also need to set the drop. his could be the reason your engine is flooding and leaking fuel.
Totally thorough and amazing. Great job. big help.
Glad it helped!
Great video. Flirting with the idea of buying this exact model off of Facebook marketplace and using it as a learning tool to become more handy with small outboards. Just need to find the confidence to pull the trigger on it. 😂
Careful with the Hydrafoil. I had one that cracked at the bolts. It was rated for my 115 Yamaha. I was not impressed with its performance either Mine was a clamp on style. It cracked at the mounting clamp bolts. If it had been just a bit more it would have broke completely off which could have hit the prop and been catastrophic. The motor wasn't designed for that kind of point load on that plate. I have seen more than one where that hole in the cavitation plate caused a large chunk to break off. Also puts more leverage if you hit floating debris and can cause damage that way. If you need to trim nothing beats electo-hydraulic trim tabs. That the company did not in any way stand behind its products was also disappointing to say the least. That Johnrude is a good little motor. I have had more than one and am currently running one from 87. I have been boating since the very early fifties both professionally and recreationally. Been working on them from the beginning. Salt water makes everything much more difficult. Take care. Doug
The foil and Stainless steel prop are such a great help on my 20 HP !
Good to know! I don't have much experience with the smaller outboards with those features
The aluminum prop will brake before it bends the propeller shaft
Those solas props are really excellent. Even their aluminum props are pretty good as they are squeeze casted so they have a much more dense cross section compared to the original props. I prefer to run the solas aluminum props so that the damage to the engine is much less as compared to having a stainless prop hit debris or rocks in d water.
I would agree. If you are running rivers vs lakes the aluminum for sure
Good job Mike! Thank you for posting this video.
Really enjoyed the fix-up of the 9.9 , am new to your channel I enjoyed your approach to the project. Thanks for posting the video.
Awesome, thank you!
Spark plug gap is .030 never been 40. If line notch up with bolt starter can use socket instead of wrench. Unless replacing rope can just loosen bolt while hold together lift up put 3/8 wing nut off battery and lay to side without removing handle and having to rewind. When installing move bolt up to about bottom starter reinstall lining up tab using deep well socket turn by hand till snug finish tighten. Only difference 9.9 and at was carb and more rpm exhaust tube same you can ck part numbers, specs on rpm. When cleaning carb on these make sure hole is open on nozzle hose go on on center piece hardly see through when clean. That's your idle circuit. After all that never did see where you changed ck gear oil unless I missed.
yep gear oil got changed. thanks for the other info
Great video, I purchased a Johnson 76, 9.9. Great motor, but seems to stall when coming down to an idle after being wide open. It would be great if you'd talk about lean/rich adjustment. I've read the "sneezing" means it's too lean. Great video thanks for putting all the time into it!
Great videos, need more like these. I buy older user motors from time to time get them running if I can , right now picked up a 1975 evinrude 9.9 . I fine that the older motors are easier to work on the the newer ones with all the modern improvements. I just like the simple things. Thanks again.
More to come! I like the old ones too.
I run a 9.9 cover on my 15hp, so I can run it state lakes here in GA that have a limit of 9.9hp.
Naughty Bookoo I may have or not used a cowling from another engine myself.
I have a Johnson 9.9 from 1989 and it runs great. Hopefully I won’t ever need to come back to watch these vids if it breaks...
So kool to see them old engines run again
I enjoy it so much, thanks for watching
I have two old Johnson’s I’ll be working on this year so your video holds a lot of interest for me! Never worked on a boat motor but thank God for TH-cam....and Michael’s Backyard Marina!!!
You guys are the best. Thank you for your comments
Hello from the Arizona desert! I have finished most of my retirement projects and thought I would teach myself how to fix outboards as a hobby. I grew up in Michigan where my Grandfather had a 5 hp Montgomery Ward outboard and taught me how to work on it. My Dad was a tool and die man at the local GM plant. He got a real deal on three 10 hp Chris Craft outboards. Supposedly the Chris Craft company infringed on the patents of Evinrude and and Johnson and got sued. They had to stop making outboards. I think this was around 1960. Dad made two good engines out of the three he bought. I had an 8' plywood hydroplane that we re skinned and repaired. He milled the head on that last Chris Craft engine and we put it on that hydroplane. It had so much compression that you could not start it with the pull rope. We would tow it to get the prop spinning and then we were able to start it. No gears on that puppy. It was always in gear. If you gave it full throttle from idle it would do a "wheelstand" in the water then take off like a shot! My uncle did that and bent the steering wheel back as the thing almost threw him out of the boat!. We did not have a speedometer but that sucker was FAST. Dad also made a brass and aluminum scoop (thanks GM!) and clamped it to the transom. When adjusted down into the water it would shoot a big rooster tail about 10' in the air and 20' behind the boat! I was the teenage terror of the Big Muskegon River! I have been looking at videos on how to work on out boards and like your channel best of all. By the look of your grass and trees you must live somewhere in the Midwest. Thanks for your good explanations and attention to detail!
Very informative and helpful for me and my 9.9 Johnson
glad it helped. Thanks for watching
Thanks for the informative video. I just acquired a 9.9 Johnson & 14 ft Jon boat. I’m in the process of replacing the water pump on it. This was very helpful. I subscribe to the channel , looking forward to more information as it comes out “thank you. “
I’ve been working on a 9.9 with 6.0 reducer that I’m eliminating. Doing the water pump impeller as well. Mine was on a pontoon with remote steering, remote start/kill and electric start. I wondered if I could find out about battery hookup locations and starter switch hookups. Thanks, I actually was waiting for Part 2!
I'm currently not familiar with the electric start models. Check out marine engine.com
This is a great video ,I have a 81' 15 hp Johnson short shaft motor. did pretty much everything you done here except the installing the 5" spacer for the long shaft. But......... there is one particular step that wasn't shown which I think is most important !! The float level wasn't adjusted, you just threw it on with out measuring the distance from the top of the bowl or where the bowl connects the carb, turn bowl upside down letting the float hang down. That measurement is crucial the inside part of the float to the top edge of the bowl is the measurement, (hope this makes sense) , I found out the hard way, I'll let you ponder that . It's not fun repeating your work lol
Not always to I get every detail in the video. I do and did check the float position on every small engine I have to do carb work on. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Very informative.
My OCD would have me moving the hydrothingy rear starboard screw to the front port hole and vice versa and have the nuts on the topside.
Cheers Eric
It's long been changed out. Thanks for watching
I did not read through the comments but one thing that needs to be replaced is the Fuel pump diaphragm as they get brittle with age and will strand you.
for sure.
Props are important. most of the time, at the local lake, you hear guys with props that are over pitch or under pitch, almost always.
Pitch your prop for the rpm where you make peak HP.
Peak Torque always comes in before peak HP so you get the torque to carry you up on to plane and the HP carries the RPM
Im building an 86 bay liner that originally had the 2.4 volvo penta I/O its now got a 3.5l Honda V6 J35. its gonna hang around 6000rpm at WOT. peak torque and Vtec roll it at round 4,000 and it carries to around 240hp at 6000rpm.
expecting nearly 90mph on the water as it did 45 with 2.4 volvo and 100hp
It needs a prop that will start to load the engine at around 4,000rpm.
I have not had a boat for several years. Do they still make the 2 speed props for the larger Mercury I/O drives. They would start out at a low pitch then torque and water pressure would cause them to shift to a higher pitch. Example: Starts out as a 19 pitch then the blades would shift up to a 23. Expensive in the 1990s
Thanks Mike for the great video brother and wonderful tips 😊
For your I/O you should try a Shorrow prop. Better fuel economy.
Thank you
You're welcome
I like your video for the good information. You do get a bit long winded on some simple things like the pull start knot, and then glossed over and fast forwarded on the carb assembly.
I like videos that get to the point in 20 min or less. Thanks for good info.
Thanks for the tips!
Wow thank you for the tip on installing the impeller they are a pain in the butt the other way
Michael, You are such a bad influence on me. ;-) I am going to pick up a pristine 9.9 short shaft form my dad. I was thinking of ways to install it on my 13' Sylvan Alaskan for fishing this spring. I was considering a plate that setback the outboard or a jack plate. Now I will be looking into making it into a 20" shaft. Thank you for the helpful information!
Then I will have to look for a 15 HP carb that won't break the bank.
Sometimes it's good to be bad, Thanks for watching and commenting.
They are hard to find without a motor attached to them.
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina Too funny. I have just spent the last hour looking for a "cheap" within 200 miles 15HP Johnson or Evinrude engine. Would be perfect if it was a seize 15HP long shaft. No luck
Update: the engine that my dad has is only 6Hp Johnson short shaft. It stinks to be dyslexic. There go all my plans to to make a 15hp long shaft for under $600.
Just picked up an '85 ish 9.9 long shaft. Seemed rougher than it was, pulled it out of an old shed at a yard sale, cleaned up well.. Did I mention that three mice jumped out of it when I pulled the cover off!! :0 Seems they were nice to it, only some insulation chewed on some wires, which I will fix of course. Got it running well after some carb adjustments, and alot of freeing up and rehydrating of old grease. There is alot of grease on almost everything that pivots, and the plugs were BRAND new, didn't look the engine had even ran with them in.. odd... I'm noticing that the coolant water coming out the pee hole at idle is much less strong of a stream throttled up, guess I might as well replace the pump.. But you definitely got me thinking about all those upgrades you put on yours, I'm considering finding a nice 15horse carb.. BTW, I'm using it on a 80's Grumman 12' fishermn.. I think this 9.9 should move me along pretty good huh..:D. I also don't really want to convert it to short shaft, so I just cut out a new transom and spaced up the difference, the one that came on the boat was trash anyways..
I also forgot to ask, what did you get for the water pump replacement kit? Do you happen to have a part number? Just trying to decide if the cheap and expensive kits are all the same..
Thanks again great video
Thank you, there are useful moments.
Glad you think so!
Great job. the motor sounds fantastic..
Thanks 👍
Good video!! The second shirt is awesome!!
Thanks!!
Great video but I would cut those bolts off that go through the water Fin plume with bottom of nut, would look much better and probably help in efficiency some...
Good tip!
They are upside down
Thanks for the great video! Love your detailed explanation.
Thanks for the videos - very helpful - good job !!
Another awesome video!
Thanks for the video!
In 1985 there was a TSB sent to Authorized OMC Dealers regarding fuel/oil ratio and spark plugs. That TSB was sent out with every new model year set of manuals until 1990. QL77JC4 is the right plug for the 9.9/15 and .30 is the gap. The outside of the water pump cup and the inside of the housing gets a coat of J/E Gasket Compound, light coat of Triple Guard Grease inside the cup. The wear plate gets a coat of gasket compound between itself and the gear case. The mating surface of the water pump housing to the wear plate and both mating surfaces of the lower unit to the midsection get a bead of J/E Adhesive "M." Drive shaft splines get coated in molly lube not grease. Being and OMC/BRP service tech this video made me cringe when I saw the factory manual being waved around and heard "Double Check someone else's work" only to see a few minutes later the carburetor was already done with a OEM kit and then pulled apart to have an aftermarket kit installed and the manual wasn't read to understand the use of sealants and proper assembly. After 44 years as a master certified J/E mechanic when a customer walks in and says "The guy on TH-cam said...." I know I'm in for a real treat.
So again we catch you playing with your johnson.
!
I have to admit, it is fun, thanks for watching
Great videos
Glad you like them!
I really learned a lot Thank You! Now I just need to find a Johnson motor to work on and a hawaiian shirt..
you figured out my secret.....the shirt!!!
Thanks for a great and informative video!
My pleasure!
Great series!!
So glad you enjoyed it. I will do my best to keep the content coming.
Love the video and good info. I have the same wing on my Yamaha 60 on my Polar 18 ft tunnel hull skiff. Couple it with the trim tabs really helped me get up fast in shallow water. New sub also. Now if you will get a little more grease on the shirt......lol
Sweet project.👍
Thank you for the video
How's she goin'? Very nice job on getting this Johnson back in shape!!! Nice tips on reassembly of the lower end. She should work graet now!!! Take care!!
Thanks for more lessons
Hello, can the engine have play up and down on the crankshaft?
Let's see a new starter rope replaced.
Love the videos! Can’t beat the older outboards . I have a 97 evinrude 9.9. Is it possible to put a 15 horse carb on it? Keep up the good videos.
The reason a 15 horsepower is pretending to be a 9.9 is a common thing. many small ponds and speed restricted lakes will not allow anything more than 10 horsepower. This is why the 9.9 exists. People get new decals for their 15 and re-label it a 9.9.
I have a 1957 10hp Ev8nrude and put the extension for a long shaft. Evinrude has a 3/8 diameter copper tube for the water pump, I am having a terrible time trying to insert the drive shaft and connecting the extended water tube. Anyone have any idea as to how to line the tube with the water pump. I am open to suggestions. Thank you, Paul
good work you should also replace the thermostat
hello from the sunny Ozarks!! thanks for ur precious time and profitable info. whats your take on bronze props in relations to stainless and allunaium . my 40 years experience no doubt stainless has more power and the hydrofoil fin gets it on plane quicker!! I didn't see a fuel filter. I use a line cutter on my prop shaft to help deter fishing lines. im constantly removing my prop to check for prop seal leaks. I have a 30hp Evinrude 1966 model and still running smooth just the usual maintance. tight lines and cheers!!
The 15 Hp carb swap upgrade on a 9.9 Hp also requires replacing the 9.9 propeller, with the 15 Hp pitch propeller. The engine will over speed at wide open throttle if the 9.9 Hp propeller is used with the 15 Hp carb upgrade.
Thanks for the tip
great !
Commenting
I have an 89’ 15 hip Johnson like yours. It runs really good. Really would be lost without it. My question is as follows. The prop,which is stock, that I have on it is a 9 1/2 x 10. To replace it I can only find the 9.25 x 10s. Is that stainless Solas prop a 9.25 x 10? Could you give me the model number for it? Thanks pal. Joe
Great vid, but I believe I would check compression before ordering parts.
What's life without whimsy
You should probably clarify that removing the upper shift rod was unnecessary when converting from short to long shaft. It’s the shift rod in the gear case that is different lengths. The other one is the same for long and short shaft motors. You obviously figured that out, but it might be confusing to some.
anyone catch putting the top on the carb forgot the linkage and had to remove & re-do. I dont think s/s prop will make a difference on a 15 at all. Except if it was a super light boat that would go fast. Hit bottom with alum and bend a prop, hit bottom with s/s and break gears. Sounds like it bogs a little when throttling up. Seems strange the you adjusted the rod all the way into the ball fitting. I would think the setting would be somewhere around the middle so i could be tweaked a little in either direction. Looking forward to tests with props and foil. My guess is, well, we will wait & see.
Good catch, like I been saying, I'm a rookie
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina Noting wrong, glad you left it in. We all do it and your time from disassembly to reassembly was days, for me it was few minutes watching a video.
Hi,new subscriber from Sweden🇸🇪
Welcome!!
Mate I need your help
I have the same motor but I went to change the impella easy all done, went to put the leg back on and every time I push it flush it clicks the shift lever into natural ??
I had it forward and the shaft is down ?? Please help
Did you spin the shift shaft at all when you had the gear box off? That could take it out of adjustment.
Fantastic video! I am having an issue where my mechanic is booked out until Nov. Curious if anyone can share any advice. Have a Johnson 9.9, 1996 short stroke. I'm pretty handy with engine work. If I pull the shifting rod up on the lower unit (removed from the upper outboard), which is reverse, what position is the shifter to be in for reassembly? If I put the shifter in reverse, the upper shifter rod reduces in length making it impossible to reattach to the lower. I've disassembled 12x over the last 2 weeks. Each time I reassemble, I lose Neutral. Any info is GREATLY appreciated! Thank you & Cheers
Without seeing it, it is hard to give good advice, good luck.
GREAT VIDEOS. BUT YOU MENTIONED YOU HAD A VIDEO OF THE BASIC TOOLS YOU CARRY WHEN OUT IN THE WATER WHAT ARE THOSE TOOLS PLEASE AND THANK YOU ( I HAVE THE EXACT SAME MOTOR 92 9.9 JOHNSON
I too would be interested in a "toolkit" video.
Mike, I have an old 80’s 9.9 Johnson that has very little power. What could be the possible causes? Would you be interested in working on my Johnson outboard?
Where did you order the 15hp carburetor at. I have a 9.9 Johnson and would like to get the carburetor to make it a 15
You for got to explane how to check the fuel float drop gap !
will be doing it on the upcoming video.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe you said the 9.9 becomes a 15 only after you install the larger 15 carburetor. I don't remember you saying you put the larger carb in?
In this particular case this 9.9 was a true 15hp with a 9.9 cover. Thanks for watching
Grate job
Hi Do you known if ratio oil is 100/1 or 50/1 for your 9.9 HP
Thanks
I've got the same motor but an Evinrude had a ? about the carb The throttle linkage on carb some have a shoulder bolt holding them on but this Johnson in the video and my Evinrude have a plastic "pin" holding them on my ? is how do you get it out? I want to replace the linkage and roller on mine but cant seem to figure how to remove the pin???? Your videos are a great way to see before you do the work which makes it nice to know some of the problems to expect!!! Keep them coming!! Thanks Dave
I haven't removed the pin and roller. Not sure it's serviceable if we are talking about the same part.
They are called Gapless Sparkplug
Yes they are. Thanks for watching
I just got one. When it's NOT running , should I be able to switch it into Forward?? It goes to neutral and reverse while not running
sometime you have to roll the engine over to get the gears to mesh.
Michaels - is there a muffler - maybe after market for this engine? Fantastic video btw
I don't know of any aftermarket mufflers for these. Thanks for watching
You mentioned the proper Spark Plug Gap for this engine should be at .040 or (40 thou)??? Every Johnson & Evinrude manual I have states .030 is the proper gap. My 9.9 is running perfectly with the Champion QL77JC4 plugs gapped at .030
thanks for the tip.
Michael I am reinstalling the lower unit on my 1992 Johnson 9.9 . the manual says to pull up on the shift rod on the lower unit and put the shift lever to reverse. When I do this there's about a 1/8" gap between them. No way is going to work. any thoughts. Thanks
I have a 1963 5.5 hp evinrude fisherman and was wondering if it would push a 15' kingfisher ?
Of course it will about 5 mph
I've been looking for a video on how to replace the pull cord. If you could do a video on that that'd be great. Otherwise any suggestions? Looks like you have to take the flywheel off to get to the pull start, but based on your first video it looks like you only have to take off the starter?
check out this video th-cam.com/video/WZ_M1vIIXdE/w-d-xo.html