🚨🚨🚨 Part Two: Surgery on the Charger! th-cam.com/video/xk8_uy6H6Bs/w-d-xo.html Bonus Footage of the other wheel over on my SECOND CHANNEL! Much Less Drilling and more of the good stuff! "Rainman Ray Out of the Shop!" th-cam.com/video/4eFwPXqKxxI/w-d-xo.html 🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨
Working at a tire shop years ago.... I'll give you a hint... it rhymes with Costco....had a Jeep come in just like this. Turns out the owner was a d!ck and had some altercation with the previous the shop that had done his brakes... They put a breaker bar on a couple lugs on each wheel and rolled the truck forward with the breaker bar contacting the shop floor. I had the usual 1/2" breaker bar and a long pipe and weigh 275lbs and it wouldn't budge. Solid testament to the strength of those studs on an early 90's jeep Cherokee but they wouldn't budge. I can only imagine they permanently galled themselves physically together... A total of 9 studs had to be cut off and replaced..... Of course the customer insisted we did the damage but we definitely did the CYA.
20 + years of Aircraft Structural repair. I have drilled most every metal used in Aircraft from O Aluminum, to 7075 T6, to mild steel, cold formed steel, stainless steel, titanium, brass, Vanadium steel, Tungsten and Chromium. When you are drilling hard metals in the steel range the rule is, slow speed and heavy feed. So keep your drill at a lower speed and use heavy pressure to keep the drill bit cutting. Speeding the drill up will most definitely burn up your bit much quicker as it over heats.
I haven’t done A&P work in years after getting the certificate, but I do remember high speed, or high pressure with lower RPM for steel. The one rule for both I was told 😂 there’s ALWAYS TIME FOR LUBE.
please excuse my seemingly flippant response to your thoughtful and correct comment: as a supervisors assistant in industrial manufacture (bridge beams) life expectancy of bits sometimes depends on the amount of hatred for management/owners the elite of the steel workers union spreads during election season (elite refers to those at the top who grow extraordinarily wealthy during their tenure).
@@gearhead9115 take a good one off, get a hole saw that just fits over the stud, drill pilot into lug nut, get hole saw started, remove pilot, drill out lug nut. No damage to wheel, quick. No need to dill hard metal of stud.
Archimedes is famously quoted for saying "give me a lever long enough, and I will move the earth" If he ran into these lug nuts he probably wouldn't be so cocky lol
Based on how easily you were able to loosen the undamaged lug nuts, I am willing to bet that the owner was trying to remove them by turning them clockwise.
Could also be if someone (maybe even a shop) got it slightly cross-threaded, or gunned one on before torquing all the others. I've got in the habit of checking after work is done, remove the nuts one by one to inspect threads (and make sure I can get it off if I break down!) after a shop does work. When they're put on properly, it only takes about 1/4 turn with a wrench and the rest spins off "by finger". Same with reinstalling, get it started and you can spin it down "by finger" and to the last 1/4 turn or so until the wrench clicks with the tool. I've seen some shops will toss the nut in the impact gun and just kinda throw the wheel up, stick it up and pull the trigger...just kinda hoping it goes on the thread. Keep on ugga-dugga-ing until the wheel won't wiggle, then add the other lugs...not a good way to operate.
@@matthewmiller6068 An old mechanic I once knew as a young lad, had impressed upon me that the impact wrench is a useful tool for removal of bolts frozen in place. But that the tool was never designed to return said bolts to where they once were. He would use the tool at low pressure to return the bolts/nuts in place for speed, but would always start by hand, and after, finish the turns with the ratchet or torque wrench. The headache to not doing so was simply not worth it. Granted, he cut his teeth on some pretty crude machines relative to what we are accustomed to these days...poor quality tools or poor quality parts...you sneeze and they break kind of thing. He likely learned the hard way, how to be patient. I dunno...even with a cross tire iron, I avoid using it until I've threaded in a couple turns every bolt into their holes with the wheel on. Just makes sense...and yeah, I hate having to deal with an expensive problem that can so easily be avoided in the first place with some simple patience.
I've unfortunately gotten around this by extremely tig welding on sacrificial lug nuts to the shit ones. Also, I use a jackstand to hold up my socket extension so that my force stays torque and doesn't go lateral.
I used the same sort of method this guy did except I positioned the cheater bar 180 degrees so that it required a lifting motion and used a floor jack on the end. I would slowly pump the jack on the end of the bar while hammering the socket further in and doing my best to hold it straight on the nut to avoid a sudden twist off.
Yer I like those old cross style 4 size wheel sockets as you can push one side with your foot while pulling the other side with your hands which gives a perfectly uniformed torque delivery....👌👍👌
Physiology hint - When you push *down* on a breaker bar, you can only apply as much force as you weigh. When you pull *up* on a breaker bar, you can apply as much force as you can deadlift. Simplified - if you are strong enough to stand up, pulling up on the breaker bar beats pushing it down every time.
I find when using an extension like that in high torque situations it behooves you to support the ratchet head. Otherwise you apply your torque off axis from desired rotation, increasing risk of initially stripping and also losing bite with extractors.
To begin with I worked as an Aircraft Sheetmetal Mechanic for 45 years. To say I have lots of experience drilling out bolts and screws. You do your work the way you see fit but here is some help from my experience!! Cobalt bits work better with slower rotation and lots of pressure!!
In a situation like that where a lug nut or, in my case, a pan plug, is stuck and won't budge, I prefer to use my breaker bar over my 88-tooth ratcheting wrench. Would rather not have to buy a new 88-tooth rebuild kit if I don't have to. Just some advice from a greenhorn diesel mechanic
Sounded like he wanted it replaced anyhow: there is a similar comment early in the vid and his reply is "I'll warranty it". In other vids, he's made note of using a breaker bar over the ratchet for this exact reason, so I'm guessing this ratchet was getting sloppy and needed replacing anyway.
Only time I use a breaker bar is when I'm using a forklift or a jack as leverage and that's only because I don't want to mess up my comfort grip handles haha. Tool truck ratchets can handle a lot of abuse many times before they break.
@@mikeyz1080 maybe not unless you are a professional. That's why we pay those tool truck tool prices, because they are dam good tools that actually work and seldom break and if they do the tool trucks are usually pretty good about warranting them.
Any lug you get from the dealer will have the cap on them that expand.youd need to get aftermarket lugs,but most of those aren't safe so becareful which ya buy.
I think the maker assumes its a pissy v6 so owners gunna spin those tyres n the lug nuts will be taken off so regular that this shouldnt happen. The also assume that the tyre places and dealers wont use big tony to go ape sht on the ugga dugga gun. Meant to be started by hand wound on with gun then undo a bit torque to spec. Torque spec is not ugga duggad to buggery
New to your channel, have to say your skills and knowledge are impressive! Its great seeing a shop with your skills and honesty. Amazing work really. :)
few years back a tire shop sold my father in law a set of SAE wheel nuts instead of Metric... shame on him for not stopping when he found they weren't going on that easy, but the shop went good on it and paid for all 24 replacement studs and nuts...
@@kramnoslaw4474 Oh look a “progressive”…. Atleast he isn’t blaming the coming $10 gallon gas on Russia (Putin specifically) instead of looking at his old wrinkled ass in the mirror. Just sayin
Tip from an old school experienced tire guy, pound smaller socket on it and tighten it more with breaker bar, it will snap it off and save alot of time and drill bits, then replace as normal. Hope this will help in the future and save some people reading rhis some time.
This reminds me of when I was doing a brake job on my daughter's car with my son in law and grandson. Whoever had put new tires on the car must have used a 3/4 " drive impact full force to put the wheels back on. I used a 4 way with a cheater bar and a jack stand to keep the 4 way level with the lug nut. I sprayed the lug nuts with blaster, let that set for awhile, and stood on the 4 way with s cheater bar with my 320lbs and bounced on it until they finally broke loose. Getting the wheels off took longer than the brake job. Unbelieveable laziness on the part of the guy that put the wheels on. If they had a flat on the side of the road, they'd never have been able to change tires.
I used an old socket on a junk extension to heat the nut. I heat it up put it on the nut then heat the extension so im away from the rim. It wont get red hot but some times a little goes a long way. When you pull it off the nuts will be hot so hit it with the air gun fast. It worked for me a few times. Old cars 70s we use to just snap the nut by over tightening them but now they just spin
Same here. I levered with a 6ft length of scaffold tube ....and just bent the tube. Had to take car back to the tyre dealers to loosen them up again. Now I always ensure they are torqued up so I can get them off with my own wheel brace, not their 400000000 ft lb air hammer.
Probably one of my least favorite jobs as a mechanic, dealing with stripped, broken, welded nuts and bolts that will not budge or break off. Similar situation I had. The lug nut was welded to the lug stud via cross thread or over torquing, but the lug stud was spinning in the hub itself. We ended up (with customer approval) using a torch and melting the lug nut and stud. It was beautiful. I'm always conscious of how lug nuts feel when removing and installing for this reason. If something doesn't feel right I inspect the threads and clean them up with a thread chaser to avoid anything like this happening.
I swear every time we've ever encountered lug nuts that wouldn't come off, the easiest course of action is to crank the impact up and run em forward until the stud snaps.
I drive a lot of rental vehicles for work, mostly light duty trucks, but I have throughly enjoyed both of the V6 chargers I had. I drove one 700miles around California on vacation and drove the other from South Carolina to Illinois then around Illinois for about three months. Neither of them felt underpowered at any time and gave me excellent fuel mileage with a great ride and great looking car. I agree with the guy above who said it’s a great commuter car but disagree with the unresponsive part the engine always snapped into a lower gear and gave it hell. Is it a V8? For sure it’s not, but it’s a very respectable car that can still get a little sideways.
Oh stop. Your comment comes across like a wannabe car fan. Any real car guys don't make snarky responses at a 305 HP V6. That's more power then most V8's from the 70's (golden age of muscle).
those are real tight - a trick I learned from an old mechanic here in the uk to stop the tool twisting and chewing the nuts if they are too tight is to put an axel stand under the head of the ratchet with extension or wheelbrace while stomping on it - that way it keeps it level and doesnt twist and you put more torque on the nut
Man I just love your vids! I know almost nothing about cars & find these fascinating. The way you explain things! But I do know enough to say: ain't it scary how computers are taking over things?
GROOOOOWSE ITS A V6 had me in tears! As someone going from a V6 07 Charger to a 21 Scat, I gotta say the V6 still goes and really isnt that bad for what it is. It should be a V8 but some of us dont need it, want it, or can handle it.
Shoot, I still get myself into trouble with a naturally aspirated 2.5l 4 cylinder. I don't know what I would do with a V8 but probably not anything good. Still would be fun though. lol
Yeah a V8 is fun and bragging rights but for a daily driver and cruiser a V6 does perfectly fine and is substantially cheaper to buy and fuel. I have several v6 cars worth hundreds of thousands of miles on them. And my V6 will get me to work just as fast as a V8.
Some good tips in the comments. From tractors and plant perspective my first one is to rest the breaker bar on an axel stand so it can’t roll off the nut. (Double sheer pin) The other is my favourite and that is to hit it repeatedly end-on with a lump hammer and drift. The cruel outcome is that there is enough deformation due to shock that the nut is no longer tight. :o)
For anyone unfortunate enough to own a dodge, I recommend replacing all of the factory lug bolts first thing. Some moron engineer at Fiat decided it would be a good idea to put an aluminum cap over a steel bolt. Over time with regular tire rotations, the aluminum warps and makes it impossible to get a socket on them or remove the bolts.
I agree with you those Dodge nuts are crap those chinesium looking things are the worst design I've ever seen and I was a UAW worker for 29 of my working years!
they were the bane of my existence when i did roadside service. That was back in 2008 so the daimlerchrysler engineers were already not giving a frick about lugnut quality.
@@xgcskiman I haven’t seen Ford or toyota nearly as much as dodge with this problem when I was a mechanic. The dodge lugs where so bad we knew before we touched the car it was a gamble if the socket would fit or if we would have to hammer it on🤣
I cannot believe some egit tightened those lug nuts so tight, I always keep a large selection of carbide drill bits and center drills for stuff like this. I’m a machinist by trade so I’m quite happy fixing stuff like this. Also I wonder how stretched and cracked the studs are? Now I’m retired the local garages and tire shops call me when they have situations like this.
When I had tires put on , I brought my own tork wrench and told them to use it. Lug studs that are torked that tight should all be replaced with OEM quality parts. It's crazy what tire shops do to lug nuts and then you have zero chance to take them off when you get a flat with a one foot tire tool in your trunk.
@@carlhokanson9160 my neighbor has a charger V6 and his was the same way. These factory lugs are junk of the junk garbage torqued from the factory new. He took the car to the dealer bitchin up a storm and asked for quality replacements.
I had the company pool car one day, my own was being serviced. A trip on the M1 ended with a flat tyre. The RAC man and I, together, could not move the nuts. We ended up towing the vehicle, with a flat tyre, to the nearest repairer. Cost, 4 wheels, 4 hubs. All the wheels had been seriously overtightened and damaged, and so had the hubs.
lol happy!? Damn I wished I knew you. Back when I first started working on cars and made stupid mistakes Ive spent days and a lot of money driving around town trying to find actual full service shops to fix my mistakes and they wouldnt touch it or didnt have the appropriate tools. I remember once pulling my hair out trying to find a place with a simple press just to press a bearing onto an axel. none of the car repair shops had one. I ended up discovering that there was one at my job... 🙄. And this was before I discovered Harbor Freight. lol
I would imagine you’ve heard this numerous times but it’s really good that you videotape the issue before taking it into the shop for a CYA. In my lifetime of experience in some cases it’s a good idea for the customer to videotape the issue before taking it into the mechanic also.
A neighbor had an older Dodge van back in the mid 1970s (I don't remember the year of the van). One VERY cold winter day (-20 degrees F), he came to ask me for help changing a flat tire. He had snapped two lugs and he figured it was because of the cold. We went out, and I pointed out to him that MOPAR had reverse threads on the driver's side back then. I worked at a service station and had another buddy that worked at the parts store we always went to, so we pulled the drums on the left side and replaced all the LH thread lugs and got him a nice new set of lug nuts at cost after I fixed his tire. I STILL use a torque wrench on lug nuts. The place where I get my tires rotated nowadays has heard enough from me that they always set lug nuts to the proper torque.
Years ago my father and I were removing the lugnuts off a tractor wheel. We both stood on the end of a 12 foot pipe and had to bounce in order to break one of the nuts. We were both over 250 pounds.
This has happened to me 2x, both at Firestone tire center, I took the car back, and started screaming at the manager with a waiting room full of customers. Several people turned around a left.
Firestone near me sucks. Worked on my sons wheel bearing twice. Drove a block and started making noise. Second attempt he drove 150miles then it started to make a extra loud noise. He had the wife & 3 young kids on a very hot day. Took a long time to get a tow truck and a rental car.
I've seen so many videos of this type of mayhem that involves lug nuts and studs. Almost everybody says "Cross threaded".....I will almost guarantee they're not. Here's why. There's a great tendency when replacing the aluminum wheel to drag the damn thing across the stud(s) and this puts aluminum shavings right into the threads. Lug nut installs just fine, nice and smooth, and torques to spec. The fun occurs when you try to remove that nut and it locks up solid. Do NOT try to run it back and forth because the situation will NOT get any better. Easiest thing to do is run the damn thing in, get a really long breaker bar, and just tighten it up and snap the stud. You cannot save it, don't try. Much easier to replace a stud than a wheel. This is why I no longer buy anything with aluminum wheels and studs. Alum wheels and lug bolts are much less likely to screw you over.
Like every other back seat youtube certified tech, I want to throw in my 0.02$ on the situation.. but before I do, I wanna say I love your content. You're a good and honest tech.. seen some of the other videos, you're saved a lot of people some big bills and headaches. That being said, I have a set of those "ease out" sockets.. I don't touch them often, but when I do I get the best results by dragging out my cheapest breaker bar and hammering the back of the breaker bar (forcing the socket on further) as I'm trying to break the bolt loose.. I also avoid using extensions or do what I can to support the end of the extension to make sure my force is rotational. My preferred method though (and its completely understand that most shops don't actively use this..) is to weld a thick wall tube to the nut, and then a garbage socket to the end of the tube. I tend to use the 6011 flavor of rod.. and something about the heat and pixies from welding tends to work some magic on those lugnuts (or nuts in general).. also enables the use of an impact. which helps TONS.
Reminds me the time I lost the key for my wheel locks. I purchased a new set with a new key and proceeded to remove the old ones .. turning them with a chisel. After some time I removed the last one. I then installed the new ones … I noticed then … the new key fit the old wheel locks. What a dope!
I experienced a similar problem. In my case, the shank of the wheel nuts had bonded to the inner hole surfaces in the alloy rims. Time was not an issue so there was WD40 and a lot of patience involved. I worked around the heads of the nuts with a hammer and metal drift in the hope of cracking the bond. I also slackened off the good nuts and very carefully drove the car a few hundred metres in the hope of cracking the bond. After the stuck nuts had a week of rest, I got them free. I also did as another responder has suggested and supported the centre of the lever arm, not with a jack but a cut length of wood.
@@AllanO808. You are correct. Attempts to release corroded threads under tension and sealed with rust are often futile except by destruction. My issue was not seized threads but a bond of corrosion between the shanks of the nuts and the walls in the alloy wheels. Compared to rusty threads alone, there is very much more area of bond to overcome. It was a matter of disturbing the joint enough so that petrol and penetrating oil could wick in. There remained dry spots but enough material was penetrated that the nuts could be worked free. Then came the task of breaking the rims free of the hub shoulders.
@@AllanO808 Yes. Preload with an old wind-up jack then lay waste with a heavy sloggenflayer belting a piece of jarrah hardwood to save the alloy. The cement slab was covered in bits of road grime and mud by the time I had won.
Yes that puts the forces in the center of the lugnut...using breaker bars with socket extensions puts pressure on the edges...a STRONG impact gun would be the preferred method of removal....
I had Ford 2 piece lug nuts like these. 19mm wouldn't work because some of the caps expanded. After getting the mangled cap off, 19mm was too big. Great engineering as usual. I found a flip over impact socket on line that is 19.5mm on one side and 18.5 mm on the other. That took care of both situations, cap on and cap off. It was still a lot of work, but I finally got them off and replaced them with solid, one piece lug nuts that I also bought online.
35yr as a technician I found if you can chisel off the chrome caps then you can use a proper sized socket. As you know things don't always go as planned.
Ray, now you are a certified lug nut specialist and the word is getting out. People from all over will be sending vehicles to you to perform this procedure that you developed. I bet this happens a lot more than most people realize as too many tire places put those nuts on with a much higher torque than is required. I have even seen aluminum wheels that have a bad runout from over torqued nuts bending the wheel.
I've freed up nuts by heating them with a torch. The diameter of the nut grows slightly due to thermal expansion. Don't try this trick on screws or bolts. The bolt would expand making it tighter.
I ran into a similar situation when Sears impact-stripped a wheel lock. Instead of take the rear end apart etc I welded a nut firmly onto the wrecked mess and was able to remove it that way. I took as much care as possible to shield the rim from my welding and it was successful. That kind of work, not surprised Sears is out of business. You are right, those were serious on there.
@@SlothMan118 Ha ha ha, roll the tire until handle is in contact with the ground - then jump in, start engine, shift, and go. Hard to keep the tool on, though.
when i was learning my way around cars, my mentors always told me to make sure whatever im screwing in doesnt spin hard as youre turning, t has to go in smoothly until it hits the bottom
Yes it is... especially in this situation. I mean if its front wheel drive, parking brake is set, and they aren't over tightened like these then it would be ok to have it lifted.
@@beaubeckum7634 yeah agree. When I was a youngster first driving I was taught to “crack” the nuts with the tyre (yes I spelt it with a ‘y’ I’m from Australia 🇦🇺 ) firm on the ground! Then raise it up and take the nut of to remove the wheel. Work smart not hard!
@@ipodpancakes2874 I’m in South Australia Loser. No lock down here and only 4 Covid deaths total! You guys are so jealous of us you need to find a comment of mine to send me a message! Be careful out there! You don’t want to get shot on those dangerous streets of the US where everything taste like sugar and people are rude and fat
Not sure this is related to this video,but what brand are your hose grip pliers? I've seen them on your other videos and want to get some. Did they come three to a set?
This is why, when I get a flat, I remove the wheel, throw the spare on, and take it to the tire store to get fixed. I don't let anyone touch it. I change my winter/summer wheels myself. Get the lug nuts tight and give it one little extra twist by hand with the tire iron. When I remove them all it takes is solid bit of force with the tire iron and one hand to break them loose. Every time. Nothing more frustrating than a stripped nut/bolt that WILL NOT come loose for the average person in their garage with basic tools.
On the subject of tires, some cars come with plastic valve stem caps. I've seen some replaced with metal aftermarket caps. I found they can corrode and weld themselves to the valve stem so stay with the plastic ones like the OEMs.
Break $100 dollar tpms sensors regularly. I have to use 3/8 impact and a soft jaw vice grip to hold the stem to try to keep it from spinning and breaking sensor they’re so bad sometimes.
I use the hex chrome valve caps and I snug them good with a small adj. wrench. It really pisses off the assholes who try to let the air out of your tires because you slept their girlfriend LOL
Bob, from black country uk i have had this problem before on commercials especially , we put a bottle jack under the extension bar to support it, it allows the bar to rotate, then put the pressure on the bar and get your buddy to strike the extension bar inline with the nut to shock it, it helps to keep the socket on the nut as well, It works sometimes good luck.
Had this happen with my wife's 2018 Pathfinder over the weekend. St'd 4-way wrench wouldn't seat properly on a couple of lugs and had to get a true socket to get it off. They weren't as wrecked as these, but I did have to reshape them on my bench so I could fit the OEM wrench over them. Those cap-over lugs are awful. What do you recommend as replacements?
Ford wheel nuts have the Ally cap which round off using a std 19mm socket if they're done up too tight. There's now a 18.5mm socket available for this specific job when the caps are removed/ missing..
When I was trying to teach my spouse how to change a tire in our Ford Fusion, I also found out what you are saying, when I to my amazement I 'discovered' that none of the 4 standard cross tire iron sockets is a good fit to the shiny sheet metal covered lug nuts. I replaced all of them with standard lug nuts. I had to mail order standard lug nuts because ALL the local auto part chain stores, like Pep Boys etc. only sell Ally Crap brand, and the like, lug nuts in glossy blister packs. Go figure. th-cam.com/video/s_NFIR9Uof8/w-d-xo.html
I would have tried the rattle-gun with the easy-out sockets. It'd either work and the nut would come loose OR it'd chew up the nut and then, at least you've got less nut to drill out. Get yourself an old bicycle inner-tube and cut short lengths out of it to make soft covers for wheel-nut sockets and avoid damaging alloy wheels. Also, if you're trying to use a breaker bar to loosen a wheelnut, get a suitable length of wood to support the socket end of the breaker bar and it'll be much easier to apply force to the bar instead of having the socket and extension twisting off the wheel. Also, also, get yourself a proper breaker bar. A length of tube is no substitute.
During my 10 months at a local dealer's shop, I've had my fair share of dealing with super stuck lug nuts but none have ever been so bad that they won't come off. That's nuts!
Used to do a lot of these for the tire shop next door. First thing I always tried was welding another lug nut to the stuck one. Sometimes there's enough meat left to get a piece of it, and of course it gets nice and hot which doesn't hurt. These ones look like they could go either way. Just gotta take a minute or two to protect the wheel if they haven't mangled it up too badly yet.
a trick I learned working in my driveway use a jack stand as a resting spot towards the ratchet (best with a 6 inch extension) was able to comfortably jump on the breaker bar after getting new tires... had to swap multiple lugs/nuts that day. The jack stand allows the socket to stay relatively straight so it doesn't slip when you push it with the power of 10 pissed mechanics :D
I've bounced on a 3ft breaker to pull things loose. I've also been party to using a tow chain and lawn tractor to do a brake job. Sometimes it's not the total force you are using, but how ridiculous and off-the-wall the method is.
I remember getting home from a Pepboys after getting tires installed and finding a lug nut cross threaded when I decided I’d rotate the new tires to the back. Put the two week older tires on the front. The stud broke. I took truck back the next day, explained the situation, and had the service manager cussing me out and the cash register flunky staring me down like he wanted to settle the matter in the parking lot. Over a $3.40 stud that took me a whopping 5 minutes to change out myself. Idiots can do this kind of damage when they put the lug nut in the socket first, then zip them on with the impact. I was accused of putting the lug nut on like that myself, with hand tools.
I have found that if you have a stuck bolt or lug in a circle pattern and one is extremely tight it may be loosened a little by loosening the other bolts or lugs first. Another thing I have found is that if you use left handed drill bits sometimes the stud or bolt will back out with just the drill turning it.
@@jaykoerner ik ur joking but its kinda sad cuz I actually had a customers vehicle 1 time at Firestone n 1 of her lugnuts was actually welded on there. N she tried o blame me for it 😳😐
I was told over 20 years ago that using a pipe ad the end of a ratchet is what they call a Georgian thorque wrench. On hard to remove lock nuts use a round bar about a foot long and the biggest hammer you can't handle lay the bar on top of the nuts and used the hammer on the bar. What happens is the metal on the wheels get compressed and the lugs will come loosened it works all the time
I'm surprised that you as a professional mechanic would use a ratchet for this and not a correct breaker bar. I know Snap On is good, but I would never put that much force on the ratchet mechanism.
@@RainmanRaysRepairs Maybe we should show this video to your snap-on man. Fairly sure he would void your warranty, as the tool is not being used in the manner for which it was manufactured & designed.
I could never loosen my crank damper on my LT1 using cheater bars because the engine wanted to spin, but if I used a hammer and a box wrench, they would loosen quite fast.
@@RayleighCriterion I had that problem when I had to replace my timing belt. I ended up taking the #1 cylinder spark plug out and packing the cylinder full of cotton rope , then turning the crankshaft until it locked up on the rope. I had even tried locking the brakes with it in gear and I was still moving the truck with a cheater bar on a 3/4 breaker bar.
Reminded me of when me and my dad were changing the clutch on a ford mondeo. It took 3 men to pull on a bad to get the bolts of the gearbox. How do you even get the bolts so tight???
YES, I just turn the ugga-dugga down a couple of notches and let repetition do the work. I will admit I have a 10x torque multiplier sittin in the bottom drawer for just such an emergency.
WARRIOR 135° Split Point Cobalt Drill Bit Set, 29 Pc.(Harbor Freight) He showed the purchase in his previous video about a damaged lug nut. They are probably not the best but are what was available at the time.
If the socket is a 6 point and a good fit I haven't saw a bolt on any car that a 1/2 impact milwaukee wouldn't take off. But if the head of the bolt is already destroyed , you may have to drill it.
I have had trouble removing lug nuts myself. One reason was it was a 67 dodge truck with right-hand threads, and I was turning them the wrong way. The last time I used a 10' cheater pipe on a breaker bar, a propane torch, and a lot of spray solvent. I finely got the wheel off but it wasn't easy. I greased up the lug nuts, and reinstalled the wheel. The next time the lug nuts were just as difficult to remove.
My brother had a similar situation on his 86 Colony Park. It was likely even worse than this, though. The lug nuts were so tight one of the stock alloy wheels shattered while he was driving home. The other three were cracked. The tire shop had to pay the local Ford dealer more than $2,000 to repair the damage and replace the turbine spoke alloy wheels.
The problem is the stupid tin covers they've been putting on cheap lug nuts to make them appear to be genuine high quality solid chromed lug nuts. It started back in the muscle car era. I'd hope they stopped it but appears they just made them even cheaper. It's best to just order the real deal quality chromed lug nuts as soon as you buy the car,install them at the dealer/tire shop and skip the whole ordeal here.
Since you were able to remove the ones that the customer hadn’t mangled, with a regular impact wrench, do you think the customer did something to make those lock on the way they did, like he did some damage to them?
Was that blue stuff in the threads some kind of thread locker? ( at 8:21 inside the lug nut threads that's visible after you cut the caps off). It don't look like red loc-tite, because it's not red... but I'm wondering if there's another strong loc-tite that's blue in color? I've herd you need heat to break red loc-tite, but the red stuff is heat resistant, so you need a lot of heat to break it free.
Great vido Ray. I would like to suggest to you that the thing that destroys drill bits most often is heat that is caused by drillin too fast with too little pressure. Get a cheap 1/2 inch low speed air drill from northern tools. This will help you to keep low speed with high pressure and their only 40 bucks this week on sale. Good luck.
Ya, I would just stop drilling when adding the lube as well. If you are just spinning the bit in the hole it is just wearing it out. I drilled 48 5/16 holes in 3/16 stainless the other day with 2 cheap drill bits and an older corded 3/8 dewalt. I only needed the second bit because the one cutting edge broke off the first bit. Tons of pressure and about as slow as the drill would run.
@@--_DJ_-- That's the right technique aj. I was in aviation for decades and had to drill stainless, inconal, monel titanium, and anything else engineering could throw at us, and there is a way, a speed, a feed rate, a pressure and cutting fluid for every situation. It pays to use a keeyed chuck too on order to keep the drill bit from spinning when the pressure increases. This will decrease your chances of overheating the bit, or snapping it as a result of hangup.
suggestion, when using a cheaper bar and or that much force, always place a jackstand under the head of the wrench. This will keep it in-line with the fastener, and not bend down with your weight on the cheater bar. This might have helped prevent the special sockets from slipping.
@@dannybradford5551 I would rather get a cheater made from heavy pipe which won't bend if I'm standing on it. I like the other idea of using a hydraulic lift to raise the bar. I have a 24" breaker bar for use with 1/2" sockets. It does make a difference. My one impact air wrench has 750 ft. pd. of force so it works pretty well too.
I can't believe you didn't try taking these off with an impact. I have broken several breaker bars trying to take off axle nuts, but when I used an impact they popped right off. The impact will shock the nut loose, not wring it off. The same goes for exhaust bolts and nuts, easy to break with a ratchet, easy to get off with an impact (but soak them overnight with PB Blaster). One of the first lessons I learned working in a garage.
I've had lug nuts that tire places put on and I tried this same thing you are doing with the pipe. What I want to know is HOW DO THEY GET THEM THAT TIGHT?
![[MPD직캠] 베이비몬스터 직캠 8K 'LIKE THAT' (BABYMONSTER FanCam) | @MCOUNTDOWN_2024.6.13](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/8qa-nm9bCLs/mqdefault.jpg)
🚨🚨🚨
Part Two: Surgery on the Charger! th-cam.com/video/xk8_uy6H6Bs/w-d-xo.html
Bonus Footage of the other wheel over on my SECOND CHANNEL! Much Less Drilling and more of the good stuff! "Rainman Ray Out of the Shop!" th-cam.com/video/4eFwPXqKxxI/w-d-xo.html
🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨
I wonder if you used a lift to push up on the handle I'd try it
What type of sockets did you have in the TH-cam video
@@2ndsam302 he had lugnut extracting sockets
Working at a tire shop years ago.... I'll give you a hint... it rhymes with Costco....had a Jeep come in just like this.
Turns out the owner was a d!ck and had some altercation with the previous the shop that had done his brakes... They put a breaker bar on a couple lugs on each wheel and rolled the truck forward with the breaker bar contacting the shop floor.
I had the usual 1/2" breaker bar and a long pipe and weigh 275lbs and it wouldn't budge. Solid testament to the strength of those studs on an early 90's jeep Cherokee but they wouldn't budge. I can only imagine they permanently galled themselves physically together...
A total of 9 studs had to be cut off and replaced.....
Of course the customer insisted we did the damage but we definitely did the CYA.
Those clowns need to recall them shitty nutz.... always using impacts like some clowns and then they blame the previous owners.🤣😂😂🤦🤦🤦🖕🖕
20 + years of Aircraft Structural repair. I have drilled most every metal used in Aircraft from O Aluminum, to 7075 T6, to mild steel, cold formed steel, stainless steel, titanium, brass, Vanadium steel, Tungsten and Chromium. When you are drilling hard metals in the steel range the rule is, slow speed and heavy feed. So keep your drill at a lower speed and use heavy pressure to keep the drill bit cutting. Speeding the drill up will most definitely burn up your bit much quicker as it over heats.
I haven’t done A&P work in years after getting the certificate, but I do remember high speed, or high pressure with lower RPM for steel. The one rule for both I was told 😂 there’s ALWAYS TIME FOR LUBE.
😊👍🏼 agree
Good to know. That makes sense.
Words to live by, Rich. Thank you for the good advice.
please excuse my seemingly flippant response to your thoughtful and correct comment: as a supervisors assistant in industrial manufacture (bridge beams) life expectancy of bits sometimes depends on the amount of hatred for management/owners the elite of the steel workers union spreads during election season (elite refers to those at the top who grow extraordinarily wealthy during their tenure).
At least prior to this repair, the customer had zero chance of wheel theft.
Haha so true LOL imagine the struggle the burglar might even feel sorry and starts fixing it for him.
🤣😅😂
🤣🤣
@@sorryimajerk735 So what exactly would you do smart ass.
@@gearhead9115 take a good one off, get a hole saw that just fits over the stud, drill pilot into lug nut, get hole saw started, remove pilot, drill out lug nut. No damage to wheel, quick. No need to dill hard metal of stud.
Archimedes is famously quoted for saying "give me a lever long enough, and I will move the earth"
If he ran into these lug nuts he probably wouldn't be so cocky lol
I think the quote was "give me a fulcrum and I will move the world" but then again, I wasn't there when he said it so I could be wrong.
Both of you and our esteemed mechanic are missing the fixed point, another crucial element.
Based on how easily you were able to loosen the undamaged lug nuts, I am willing to bet that the owner was trying to remove them by turning them clockwise.
or trying to eat them. my god.
@@NGNetwork1 🤣
Could also be if someone (maybe even a shop) got it slightly cross-threaded, or gunned one on before torquing all the others. I've got in the habit of checking after work is done, remove the nuts one by one to inspect threads (and make sure I can get it off if I break down!) after a shop does work. When they're put on properly, it only takes about 1/4 turn with a wrench and the rest spins off "by finger". Same with reinstalling, get it started and you can spin it down "by finger" and to the last 1/4 turn or so until the wrench clicks with the tool. I've seen some shops will toss the nut in the impact gun and just kinda throw the wheel up, stick it up and pull the trigger...just kinda hoping it goes on the thread. Keep on ugga-dugga-ing until the wheel won't wiggle, then add the other lugs...not a good way to operate.
exactly what i thought.
@@matthewmiller6068
An old mechanic I once knew as a young lad, had impressed upon me that the impact wrench is a useful tool for removal of bolts frozen in place. But that the tool was never designed to return said bolts to where they once were. He would use the tool at low pressure to return the bolts/nuts in place for speed, but would always start by hand, and after, finish the turns with the ratchet or torque wrench. The headache to not doing so was simply not worth it.
Granted, he cut his teeth on some pretty crude machines relative to what we are accustomed to these days...poor quality tools or poor quality parts...you sneeze and they break kind of thing. He likely learned the hard way, how to be patient.
I dunno...even with a cross tire iron, I avoid using it until I've threaded in a couple turns every bolt into their holes with the wheel on. Just makes sense...and yeah, I hate having to deal with an expensive problem that can so easily be avoided in the first place with some simple patience.
I've unfortunately gotten around this by extremely tig welding on sacrificial lug nuts to the shit ones. Also, I use a jackstand to hold up my socket extension so that my force stays torque and doesn't go lateral.
I used the same sort of method this guy did except I positioned the cheater bar 180 degrees so that it required a lifting motion and used a floor jack on the end. I would slowly pump the jack on the end of the bar while hammering the socket further in and doing my best to hold it straight on the nut to avoid a sudden twist off.
Yup, jackstand fulcrum with a 1” drive breaker bar and length of pipe is my go-to
well thats a huge waste of time and resources
Definitely need to support the extension right next to the wrench ! You will waste less force.
Yer I like those old cross style 4 size wheel sockets as you can push one side with your foot while pulling the other side with your hands which gives a perfectly uniformed torque delivery....👌👍👌
put a jack stand under you extension to keep it level helps a lot to stop the socket from slipping
Physiology hint - When you push *down* on a breaker bar, you can only apply as much force as you weigh. When you pull *up* on a breaker bar, you can apply as much force as you can deadlift.
Simplified - if you are strong enough to stand up, pulling up on the breaker bar beats pushing it down every time.
Until your body decides it's not being paid enough.
Bouncing on the breaker and/or some additional leverage is better than a hernia.
And how will you support the socket so it doesn't slip off ? You might be the guy who rounded those off to begin with !!
lm 62 ...pushing down is my option, pulling up does bad things to me
By putting a jack stand under the extension,while he is pushing down on the breaker bar
I find when using an extension like that in high torque situations it behooves you to support the ratchet head. Otherwise you apply your torque off axis from desired rotation, increasing risk of initially stripping and also losing bite with extractors.
Using a jack stand on the extension where it meets the ratchet helps tremendously. Also applying the parking brake so the car doesn't hurt
and use a breaker bar not a ratchet.
To begin with I worked as an Aircraft Sheetmetal Mechanic for 45 years. To say I have lots of experience drilling out bolts and screws. You do your work the way you see fit but here is some help from my experience!! Cobalt bits work better with slower rotation and lots of pressure!!
Seems to be the common advice here. Treat high carbon steel like you would stainless.
As someone who has absolutely no credentials here. I feel good to see this as I was about to tell him that.
“Hey bob what’s the spec on the lug nut torque?”
Bob: “yes”
26 UGA DUGGAS
@@rottdogsparky Eric O., is that you??
Bob: "It's over 9,000!!"
80 ft lbs
Torque spec is righty-tighty until it becomes righty-loosey and then stop.
In a situation like that where a lug nut or, in my case, a pan plug, is stuck and won't budge, I prefer to use my breaker bar over my 88-tooth ratcheting wrench. Would rather not have to buy a new 88-tooth rebuild kit if I don't have to. Just some advice from a greenhorn diesel mechanic
It was a snap on. Lifetime warranty and will be replaced for free
Sounded like he wanted it replaced anyhow: there is a similar comment early in the vid and his reply is "I'll warranty it". In other vids, he's made note of using a breaker bar over the ratchet for this exact reason, so I'm guessing this ratchet was getting sloppy and needed replacing anyway.
It's not boring Ray intresting and your banter keeps it going . 👍👍
Snapon salesman "you broke two of our 1/2" flexheads in one day?! Here! This is a braker bar! Please use it! Excellent video!
Only time I use a breaker bar is when I'm using a forklift or a jack as leverage and that's only because I don't want to mess up my comfort grip handles haha. Tool truck ratchets can handle a lot of abuse many times before they break.
He does not kwon the braking bar.
Not everyone wants to invest in a $200 breaker bar..lol
@@mikeyz1080 maybe not unless you are a professional. That's why we pay those tool truck tool prices, because they are dam good tools that actually work and seldom break and if they do the tool trucks are usually pretty good about warranting them.
@@429thunderjet2 👍🏼
So the first order of business on a "new" vehicle is REPLACING the craptastic lug nuts with ones that aren't pre-screwed!
Mechanic laziness is different than shittt lugs my guy.
Any lug you get from the dealer will have the cap on them that expand.youd need to get aftermarket lugs,but most of those aren't safe so becareful which ya buy.
I think the maker assumes its a pissy v6 so owners gunna spin those tyres n the lug nuts will be taken off so regular that this shouldnt happen. The also assume that the tyre places and dealers wont use big tony to go ape sht on the ugga dugga gun. Meant to be started by hand wound on with gun then undo a bit torque to spec. Torque spec is not ugga duggad to buggery
No the first step is DON'T BUY MOPAR CRAP.
@@howbouthat5479 Amen on that crappy Mopar / Fiat!
New to your channel, have to say your skills and knowledge are impressive! Its great seeing a shop with your skills and honesty. Amazing work really. :)
few years back a tire shop sold my father in law a set of SAE wheel nuts instead of Metric... shame on him for not stopping when he found they weren't going on that easy, but the shop went good on it and paid for all 24 replacement studs and nuts...
"When all your problems are lug nuts, all your solutions look like drill bits."
BWWHAHahahahahahahha
Must be interesting constantly working to fix the problems caused by Florida Man and his many brothers
And redheaded stepbrothercousinnephews ! ! LMAO
I dont always cross thread bolts, but when I do, I run it home with an impact...
@@FL.Cracker Impact gun * I got a feeling oooohhhhh tonight gonna be a goood nightt*
Heard deathsantis is working on changing the states name from Florida to little russia
@@kramnoslaw4474 Oh look a “progressive”…. Atleast he isn’t blaming the coming $10 gallon gas on Russia (Putin specifically) instead of looking at his old wrinkled ass in the mirror. Just sayin
Great diagnostic and repair have a great day
Tip from an old school experienced tire guy, pound smaller socket on it and tighten it more with breaker bar, it will snap it off and save alot of time and drill bits, then replace as normal. Hope this will help in the future and save some people reading rhis some time.
This reminds me of when I was doing a brake job on my daughter's car with my son in law and grandson. Whoever had put new tires on the car must have used a 3/4 " drive impact full force to put the wheels back on. I used a 4 way with a cheater bar and a jack stand to keep the 4 way level with the lug nut. I sprayed the lug nuts with blaster, let that set for awhile, and stood on the 4 way with s cheater bar with my 320lbs and bounced on it until they finally broke loose. Getting the wheels off took longer than the brake job. Unbelieveable laziness on the part of the guy that put the wheels on. If they had a flat on the side of the road, they'd never have been able to change tires.
I ruined two damn good 4 ways trying that on one car. Then went on to snap in two, two short extensions.
I have had too do the exact same thing to get front wheels off before
I used an old socket on a junk extension to heat the nut. I heat it up put it on the nut then heat the extension so im away from the rim. It wont get red hot but some times a little goes a long way. When you pull it off the nuts will be hot so hit it with the air gun fast. It worked for me a few times. Old cars 70s we use to just snap the nut by over tightening them but now they just spin
Same here. I levered with a 6ft length of scaffold tube ....and just bent the tube. Had to take car back to the tyre dealers to loosen them up again. Now I always ensure they are torqued up so I can get them off with my own wheel brace, not their 400000000 ft lb air hammer.
sorry stupid speech-to-text breaker bar
You have the best attitude towards difficult assignments. Always, "how can I do this?". Love to see the end of the story.
Probably one of my least favorite jobs as a mechanic, dealing with stripped, broken, welded nuts and bolts that will not budge or break off.
Similar situation I had. The lug nut was welded to the lug stud via cross thread or over torquing, but the lug stud was spinning in the hub itself. We ended up (with customer approval) using a torch and melting the lug nut and stud. It was beautiful. I'm always conscious of how lug nuts feel when removing and installing for this reason. If something doesn't feel right I inspect the threads and clean them up with a thread chaser to avoid anything like this happening.
I once attempted to assist a motorist change his tire. Problem is someone had prank welded a lug nut to its stud and the rim to the axle!
I swear every time we've ever encountered lug nuts that wouldn't come off, the easiest course of action is to crank the impact up and run em forward until the stud snaps.
Evidently not your first picnic!
@Cambron Gabaree earth driller lol
I would just use a pipe on the end of my torque wrench to break the stud.
@@friedpickles342 I’d never put a pipe on a torque wrench.
@@Cantspeakable meant to say breaker bar
The “gross it’s a V6” earned my subscription 😂
I don't get it. What wrong with V6's?
I drive a lot of rental vehicles for work, mostly light duty trucks, but I have throughly enjoyed both of the V6 chargers I had. I drove one 700miles around California on vacation and drove the other from South Carolina to Illinois then around Illinois for about three months. Neither of them felt underpowered at any time and gave me excellent fuel mileage with a great ride and great looking car. I agree with the guy above who said it’s a great commuter car but disagree with the unresponsive part the engine always snapped into a lower gear and gave it hell. Is it a V8? For sure it’s not, but it’s a very respectable car that can still get a little sideways.
Oh stop. Your comment comes across like a wannabe car fan. Any real car guys don't make snarky responses at a 305 HP V6. That's more power then most V8's from the 70's (golden age of muscle).
Mark1130 I just thought what he said was funny. You should work on your sense of humor. It would probably make you more pleasant to be around.
those are real tight - a trick I learned from an old mechanic here in the uk to stop the tool twisting and chewing the nuts if they are too tight is to put an axel stand under the head of the ratchet with extension or wheelbrace while stomping on it - that way it keeps it level and doesnt twist and you put more torque on the nut
Man I just love your vids! I know almost nothing about cars & find these fascinating. The way you explain things! But I do know enough to say: ain't it scary how computers are taking over things?
GROOOOOWSE ITS A V6 had me in tears!
As someone going from a V6 07 Charger to a 21 Scat, I gotta say the V6 still goes and really isnt that bad for what it is. It should be a V8 but some of us dont need it, want it, or can handle it.
Shoot, I still get myself into trouble with a naturally aspirated 2.5l 4 cylinder. I don't know what I would do with a V8 but probably not anything good. Still would be fun though. lol
Yeah a V8 is fun and bragging rights but for a daily driver and cruiser a V6 does perfectly fine and is substantially cheaper to buy and fuel. I have several v6 cars worth hundreds of thousands of miles on them. And my V6 will get me to work just as fast as a V8.
@@robertbell525 Exactly haha. Nothing wrong with it. Thats why Im glad to have had one for the last 5 years as my daily.
Its still the coolest looking "family sedan" around. Wife likes her v6.
Holy shit someone with a rational outlook on v6 engines in muscle cars
Some good tips in the comments. From tractors and plant perspective my first one is to rest the breaker bar on an axel stand so it can’t roll off the nut. (Double sheer pin) The other is my favourite and that is to hit it repeatedly end-on with a lump hammer and drift. The cruel outcome is that there is enough deformation due to shock that the nut is no longer tight. :o)
Just remember, crossthreading is free Loctite.
For anyone unfortunate enough to own a dodge, I recommend replacing all of the factory lug bolts first thing. Some moron engineer at Fiat decided it would be a good idea to put an aluminum cap over a steel bolt. Over time with regular tire rotations, the aluminum warps and makes it impossible to get a socket on them or remove the bolts.
I agree with you those Dodge nuts are crap those chinesium looking things are the worst design I've ever seen and I was a UAW worker for 29 of my working years!
they were the bane of my existence when i did roadside service. That was back in 2008 so the daimlerchrysler engineers were already not giving a frick about lugnut quality.
Ford and Toyota do the same thing. Some of the newer GM's too.
@@xgcskiman I haven’t seen Ford or toyota nearly as much as dodge with this problem when I was a mechanic. The dodge lugs where so bad we knew before we touched the car it was a gamble if the socket would fit or if we would have to hammer it on🤣
@@Usernamehear Half size sockets help a lot, but if the lugs are bad enough we get to preform surgery.
Looks like you've inherited all the lug nut screw ups...Your so lucky
I cannot believe some egit tightened those lug nuts so tight, I always keep a large selection of carbide drill bits and center drills for stuff like this.
I’m a machinist by trade so I’m quite happy fixing stuff like this. Also I wonder how stretched and cracked the studs are?
Now I’m retired the local garages and tire shops call me when they have situations like this.
When I had tires put on , I brought my own tork wrench and told them to use it. Lug studs that are torked that tight should all be replaced with OEM quality parts. It's crazy what tire shops do to lug nuts and then you have zero chance to take them off when you get a flat with a one foot tire tool in your trunk.
@@carlhokanson9160 my neighbor has a charger V6 and his was the same way. These factory lugs are junk of the junk garbage torqued from the factory new. He took the car to the dealer bitchin up a storm and asked for quality replacements.
I had the company pool car one day, my own was being serviced. A trip on the M1 ended with a flat tyre. The RAC man and I, together, could not move the nuts. We ended up towing the vehicle, with a flat tyre, to the nearest repairer. Cost, 4 wheels, 4 hubs. All the wheels had been seriously overtightened and damaged, and so had the hubs.
I mean you have that expensive ass hardy carbide goodness id call you too lol
lol happy!? Damn I wished I knew you. Back when I first started working on cars and made stupid mistakes Ive spent days and a lot of money driving around town trying to find actual full service shops to fix my mistakes and they wouldnt touch it or didnt have the appropriate tools. I remember once pulling my hair out trying to find a place with a simple press just to press a bearing onto an axel. none of the car repair shops had one. I ended up discovering that there was one at my job... 🙄. And this was before I discovered Harbor Freight. lol
I would imagine you’ve heard this numerous times but it’s really good that you videotape the issue before taking it into the shop for a CYA. In my lifetime of experience in some cases it’s a good idea for the customer to videotape the issue before taking it into the mechanic also.
A neighbor had an older Dodge van back in the mid 1970s (I don't remember the year of the van). One VERY cold winter day (-20 degrees F), he came to ask me for help changing a flat tire. He had snapped two lugs and he figured it was because of the cold. We went out, and I pointed out to him that MOPAR had reverse threads on the driver's side back then. I worked at a service station and had another buddy that worked at the parts store we always went to, so we pulled the drums on the left side and replaced all the LH thread lugs and got him a nice new set of lug nuts at cost after I fixed his tire.
I STILL use a torque wrench on lug nuts. The place where I get my tires rotated nowadays has heard enough from me that they always set lug nuts to the proper torque.
Years ago my father and I were removing the lugnuts off a tractor wheel.
We both stood on the end of a 12 foot pipe and had to bounce in order to break one of the nuts.
We were both over 250 pounds.
Should have called my ex gf. She's great at breaking nuts.
Duh dum tssss
@@Wipsplash p
@@Wipsplash Ok I laughed out loud!
This has happened to me 2x, both at Firestone tire center, I took the car back, and started screaming at the manager with a waiting room full of customers. Several people turned around a left.
Firestone near me sucks. Worked on my sons wheel bearing twice. Drove a block and started making noise. Second attempt he drove 150miles then it started to make a extra loud noise. He had the wife & 3 young kids on a very hot day. Took a long time to get a tow truck and a rental car.
When I saw a Hip-Hop channel on the radio, I KNEW trouble was-a-brewin'
I've seen so many videos of this type of mayhem that involves lug nuts and studs. Almost everybody says "Cross threaded".....I will almost guarantee they're not. Here's why. There's a great tendency when replacing the aluminum wheel to drag the damn thing across the stud(s) and this puts aluminum shavings right into the threads. Lug nut installs just fine, nice and smooth, and torques to spec. The fun occurs when you try to remove that nut and it locks up solid. Do NOT try to run it back and forth because the situation will NOT get any better. Easiest thing to do is run the damn thing in, get a really long breaker bar, and just tighten it up and snap the stud. You cannot save it, don't try. Much easier to replace a stud than a wheel. This is why I no longer buy anything with aluminum wheels and studs. Alum wheels and lug bolts are much less likely to screw you over.
I used to put on hydraulic rams on crushers,with less torque than this. Sometimes it helps to tighten a little before trying to loosen.
Like every other back seat youtube certified tech, I want to throw in my 0.02$ on the situation.. but before I do, I wanna say I love your content. You're a good and honest tech.. seen some of the other videos, you're saved a lot of people some big bills and headaches.
That being said, I have a set of those "ease out" sockets.. I don't touch them often, but when I do I get the best results by dragging out my cheapest breaker bar and hammering the back of the breaker bar (forcing the socket on further) as I'm trying to break the bolt loose.. I also avoid using extensions or do what I can to support the end of the extension to make sure my force is rotational.
My preferred method though (and its completely understand that most shops don't actively use this..) is to weld a thick wall tube to the nut, and then a garbage socket to the end of the tube. I tend to use the 6011 flavor of rod.. and something about the heat and pixies from welding tends to work some magic on those lugnuts (or nuts in general).. also enables the use of an impact. which helps TONS.
Genius!
I always stick a stand under the extension when I get these. Helps keep the removal tool straight when giving the breaker bar.
Reminds me the time I lost the key for my wheel locks. I purchased a new set with a new key and proceeded to remove the old ones .. turning them with a chisel. After some time I removed the last one. I then installed the new ones … I noticed then … the new key fit the old wheel locks. What a dope!
I experienced a similar problem. In my case, the shank of the wheel nuts had bonded to the inner hole surfaces in the alloy rims. Time was not an issue so there was WD40 and a lot of patience involved. I worked around the heads of the nuts with a hammer and metal drift in the hope of cracking the bond. I also slackened off the good nuts and very carefully drove the car a few hundred metres in the hope of cracking the bond. After the stuck nuts had a week of rest, I got them free. I also did as another responder has suggested and supported the centre of the lever arm, not with a jack but a cut length of wood.
Any penetrant oil would have no chance of getting into the threads under that sort of tension.
@@AllanO808. You are correct. Attempts to release corroded threads under tension and sealed with rust are often futile except by destruction. My issue was not seized threads but a bond of corrosion between the shanks of the nuts and the walls in the alloy wheels. Compared to rusty threads alone, there is very much more area of bond to overcome. It was a matter of disturbing the joint enough so that petrol and penetrating oil could wick in. There remained dry spots but enough material was penetrated that the nuts could be worked free. Then came the task of breaking the rims free of the hub shoulders.
@@DARANGULAFILM That's when the oversize "persuader" comes into action from the inside of the wheel. Lol
@@AllanO808 Yes. Preload with an old wind-up jack then lay waste with a heavy sloggenflayer belting a piece of jarrah hardwood to save the alloy. The cement slab was covered in bits of road grime and mud by the time I had won.
I would use impact wrench on the damaged bolt removers, in short bursts to start
Yes that puts the forces in the center of the lugnut...using breaker bars with socket extensions puts pressure on the edges...a STRONG impact gun would be the preferred method of removal....
I had Ford 2 piece lug nuts like these. 19mm wouldn't work because some of the caps expanded. After getting the mangled cap off, 19mm was too big. Great engineering as usual. I found a flip over impact socket on line that is 19.5mm on one side and 18.5 mm on the other. That took care of both situations, cap on and cap off. It was still a lot of work, but I finally got them off and replaced them with solid, one piece lug nuts that I also bought online.
35yr as a technician I found if you can chisel off the chrome caps then you can use a proper sized socket. As you know things don't always go as planned.
They do make breaker bars so you don't have to wreck your ratchets
Exactly that's what I was thinking
@@logicthought24 💯 there’s a reason why he bought Snapon if it breaks it breaks give me a new one fucker.
I would have left car on ground. To break loose lugs.
Ray, now you are a certified lug nut specialist and the word is getting out. People from all over will be sending vehicles to you to perform this procedure that you developed. I bet this happens a lot more than most people realize as too many tire places put those nuts on with a much higher torque than is required. I have even seen aluminum wheels that have a bad runout from over torqued nuts bending the wheel.
I've freed up nuts by heating them with a torch. The diameter of the nut grows slightly due to thermal expansion. Don't try this trick on screws or bolts. The bolt would expand making it tighter.
Another smart Engineering plan !! when will they ever learn!!!
I ran into a similar situation when Sears impact-stripped a wheel lock. Instead of take the rear end apart etc I welded a nut firmly onto the wrecked mess and was able to remove it that way. I took as much care as possible to shield the rim from my welding and it was successful. That kind of work, not surprised Sears is out of business. You are right, those were serious on there.
As a lightweight mechanic, I feel that fear of standing on a bar when the bolt just wont turn over.
I jump on it
@@SlothMan118 Ha ha ha, roll the tire until handle is in contact with the ground - then jump in, start engine, shift, and go. Hard to keep the tool on, though.
The previous mechanic finger "F"ed" those lug nuts!!!
when i was learning my way around cars, my mentors always told me to make sure whatever im screwing in doesnt spin hard as youre turning, t has to go in smoothly until it hits the bottom
Worked at a wrecking yard for about 3 years and learned real quick the fastest way for me is a air hammer with patience never damaged a rim so far
Wouldn’t it be best to have the tyres firm on the ground to get better grip?
Yes it is... especially in this situation. I mean if its front wheel drive, parking brake is set, and they aren't over tightened like these then it would be ok to have it lifted.
@@beaubeckum7634 yeah agree.
When I was a youngster first driving I was taught to “crack” the nuts with the tyre (yes I spelt it with a ‘y’ I’m from Australia 🇦🇺 ) firm on the ground! Then raise it up and take the nut of to remove the wheel. Work smart not hard!
@@MeatPiesAndHoldenCars Smart is to get a cordless impact wrench. Can't live without mine.
@@MeatPiesAndHoldenCars how’s it feel to not be able to leave the house loser lol
@@ipodpancakes2874 I’m in South Australia Loser. No lock down here and only 4 Covid deaths total! You guys are so jealous of us you need to find a comment of mine to send me a message! Be careful out there! You don’t want to get shot on those dangerous streets of the US where everything taste like sugar and people are rude and fat
Not sure this is related to this video,but what brand are your hose grip pliers? I've seen them on your other videos and want to get some. Did they come three to a set?
This is why, when I get a flat, I remove the wheel, throw the spare on, and take it to the tire store to get fixed. I don't let anyone touch it. I change my winter/summer wheels myself. Get the lug nuts tight and give it one little extra twist by hand with the tire iron. When I remove them all it takes is solid bit of force with the tire iron and one hand to break them loose. Every time. Nothing more frustrating than a stripped nut/bolt that WILL NOT come loose for the average person in their garage with basic tools.
Yes, I would like to see how the drill out goes, and what needs to be replaced as a result. Great effort so far!😁
Check out the description, there’s two more videos in the links
@@RainmanRaysRepairs that's one tough ratchet. I figured it would snap
@@Bryan-Hensley Snap On- not Snap Off! 🤣 I did break one ratchet though 😬
On the subject of tires, some cars come with plastic valve stem caps. I've seen some replaced with metal aftermarket caps. I found they can corrode and weld themselves to the valve stem so stay with the plastic ones like the OEMs.
Galvanic corrosion is a bitch. I ask owners to try and remove their own metal dust caps, it's gets the message home why you use plastic caps.
Break $100 dollar tpms sensors regularly. I have to use 3/8 impact and a soft jaw vice grip to hold the stem to try to keep it from spinning and breaking sensor they’re so bad sometimes.
I use the hex chrome valve caps and I snug them good with a small adj. wrench. It really pisses off the assholes who try to let the air out of your tires because you slept their girlfriend LOL
Bob, from black country uk i have had this problem before on commercials especially , we put a bottle jack under the extension bar to support it, it allows the bar to rotate, then put the pressure on the bar and get your buddy to strike the extension bar inline with the nut to shock it, it helps to keep the socket on the nut as well, It works sometimes good luck.
Had this happen with my wife's 2018 Pathfinder over the weekend. St'd 4-way wrench wouldn't seat properly on a couple of lugs and had to get a true socket to get it off. They weren't as wrecked as these, but I did have to reshape them on my bench so I could fit the OEM wrench over them.
Those cap-over lugs are awful. What do you recommend as replacements?
Ford wheel nuts have the Ally cap which round off using a std 19mm socket if they're done up too tight. There's now a 18.5mm socket available for this specific job when the caps are removed/ missing..
When I was trying to teach my spouse how to change a tire in our Ford Fusion, I also found out what you are saying, when I to my amazement I 'discovered' that none of the 4 standard cross tire iron sockets is a good fit to the shiny sheet metal covered lug nuts. I replaced all of them with standard lug nuts. I had to mail order standard lug nuts because ALL the local auto part chain stores, like Pep Boys etc. only sell Ally Crap brand, and the like, lug nuts in glossy blister packs.
Go figure. th-cam.com/video/s_NFIR9Uof8/w-d-xo.html
I’ve always had better luck using an impact with those twist sockets.
Yup. You are correct. And the package for them usually says to use an impact.
Yup impact the crap out of it till the stud snaps easy peasy
Matco impact will twist the stud off or break it free no third choice
Ya idk who in there right mind wouldn't use an impact on those twist sockets lol.
Same here. Bang that crap on and impact it right off.
I would have tried the rattle-gun with the easy-out sockets.
It'd either work and the nut would come loose OR it'd chew up the nut and then, at least you've got less nut to drill out.
Get yourself an old bicycle inner-tube and cut short lengths out of it to make soft covers for wheel-nut sockets and avoid damaging alloy wheels.
Also, if you're trying to use a breaker bar to loosen a wheelnut, get a suitable length of wood to support the socket end of the breaker bar and it'll be much easier to apply force to the bar instead of having the socket and extension twisting off the wheel.
Also, also, get yourself a proper breaker bar. A length of tube is no substitute.
During my 10 months at a local dealer's shop, I've had my fair share of dealing with super stuck lug nuts but none have ever been so bad that they won't come off. That's nuts!
Used to do a lot of these for the tire shop next door. First thing I always tried was welding another lug nut to the stuck one.
Sometimes there's enough meat left to get a piece of it, and of course it gets nice and hot which doesn't hurt. These ones look like they could go either way. Just gotta take a minute or two to protect the wheel if they haven't mangled it up too badly yet.
a trick I learned working in my driveway use a jack stand as a resting spot towards the ratchet (best with a 6 inch extension) was able to comfortably jump on the breaker bar after getting new tires... had to swap multiple lugs/nuts that day. The jack stand allows the socket to stay relatively straight so it doesn't slip when you push it with the power of 10 pissed mechanics :D
I've bounced on a 3ft breaker to pull things loose.
I've also been party to using a tow chain and lawn tractor to do a brake job.
Sometimes it's not the total force you are using, but how ridiculous and off-the-wall the method is.
I remember getting home from a Pepboys after getting tires installed and finding a lug nut cross threaded when I decided I’d rotate the new tires to the back. Put the two week older tires on the front. The stud broke. I took truck back the next day, explained the situation, and had the service manager cussing me out and the cash register flunky staring me down like he wanted to settle the matter in the parking lot. Over a $3.40 stud that took me a whopping 5 minutes to change out myself. Idiots can do this kind of damage when they put the lug nut in the socket first, then zip them on with the impact. I was accused of putting the lug nut on like that myself, with hand tools.
Best locking nuts I have ever seen 😂🤣
I love watching great skill, all the to the end. Helps with my PTSD.
In my experience if you remove the other lug nuts first it often loosens the over torqued one a bit
And drive it around a bit. Although, last time we tried this it didn’t work :o(
If anything loosening the others will put even more tension on the remaining nut
@@r.m.5548 yes, you want so much tension it stretches them a bit. Cruel but effective.
You are really good at making tasks look a lot harder than they should be....
I have found that if you have a stuck bolt or lug in a circle pattern and one is extremely tight it may be loosened a little by loosening the other bolts or lugs first. Another thing I have found is that if you use left handed drill bits sometimes the stud or bolt will back out with just the drill turning it.
Always use lots of locktite and epoxy to keep the wheels from coming off on the highway
I just weld the nut to the stud, problem solved
Just cross thread every lug it’ll never come off again
@@jaykoerner, do weld the whole thing or do you just tack weld it?
@@jaykoerner ik ur joking but its kinda sad cuz I actually had a customers vehicle 1 time at Firestone n 1 of her lugnuts was actually welded on there. N she tried o blame me for it 😳😐
@@Hoaxer51 hot and thick, needs to be able to pierce the tire of the car beside it if needed,
Drilling things is the new pouring things. Thanks Ray!
I was told over 20 years ago that using a pipe ad the end of a ratchet is what they call a Georgian thorque wrench. On hard to remove lock nuts use a round bar about a foot long and the biggest hammer you can't handle lay the bar on top of the nuts and used the hammer on the bar. What happens is the metal on the wheels get compressed and the lugs will come loosened it works all the time
Thank you! Thank you for being that guy, they are literally wasting money on pure looks when they could get a Toyota Camry v6 that goes just as fast.
I'm surprised that you as a professional mechanic would use a ratchet for this and not a correct breaker bar. I know Snap On is good, but I would never put that much force on the ratchet mechanism.
the snap on truck comes by once a week..half of the fun of buying Snap-On is seeing how bad you can break it and still have it under warranty..
Lifetime warranty. And if an older item is discontinued (like this one) then I get a brand new one
@@RainmanRaysRepairs Maybe we should show this video to your snap-on man. Fairly sure he would void your warranty, as the tool is not being used in the manner for which it was manufactured & designed.
@@vornerestieaux8041 nah, they would have made a commercial out of this video.
Would an impact wrench work better instead of the cheater bar? Definitely need to see the results of this in a video now ! 👍👍🤓
I could never loosen my crank damper on my LT1 using cheater bars because the engine wanted to spin, but if I used a hammer and a box wrench, they would loosen quite fast.
@@RayleighCriterion I had that problem when I had to replace my timing belt. I ended up taking the #1 cylinder spark plug out and packing the cylinder full of cotton rope , then turning the crankshaft until it locked up on the rope. I had even tried locking the brakes with it in gear and I was still moving the truck with a cheater bar on a 3/4 breaker bar.
Also does your impact have a gauge on it or do you just torque the lug nuts down with just Experience using your impact
Reminded me of when me and my dad were changing the clutch on a ford mondeo. It took 3 men to pull on a bad to get the bolts of the gearbox. How do you even get the bolts so tight???
You can use an impact gun with those sockets.
I have tried but have better luck with a large breaker bar myself. The impact just tends to shave the metal off instead of dig in.
YES, I just turn the ugga-dugga down a couple of notches and let repetition do the work. I will admit I have a 10x torque multiplier sittin in the bottom drawer for just such an emergency.
Use a strong 1/2" impact with those twist sockets.
I know right, cant finish watching
This. I don’t know why he didn’t try it first. Impact helps a lot.
Warm them up a little too
This is why I keep a 40" long 3/4 drive breaker bar in my f250. I use it with a 3/4 to 1/2 reducer.
When you have an extension on while removing lug nuts put a jack stand under the extension. You'll get more pull down torque. It works.
What brand of drill bits do you use? Asking for a friend looking for investment opportunities.
Ok, fine.
It's me.
I'm my own friend.
WARRIOR 135° Split Point Cobalt Drill Bit Set, 29 Pc.(Harbor Freight) He showed the purchase in his previous video about a damaged lug nut. They are probably not the best but are what was available at the time.
Well, you're never alone with your own friend....or schizophrenia.
Literally hammer a universal spec deep impact socket and slap the milwaukke 1/2" high torque in reverse. All problems solved
If the socket is a 6 point and a good fit I haven't saw a bolt on any car that a 1/2 impact milwaukee wouldn't take off. But if the head of the bolt is already destroyed , you may have to drill it.
@@dougsanders6034 dont drill it. thats what hammering the universal on is for.
I have had trouble removing lug nuts myself. One reason was it was a 67 dodge truck with right-hand threads, and I was turning them the wrong way. The last time I used a 10' cheater pipe on a breaker bar, a propane torch, and a lot of spray solvent. I finely got the wheel off but it wasn't easy. I greased up the lug nuts, and reinstalled the wheel. The next time the lug nuts were just as difficult to remove.
My brother had a similar situation on his 86 Colony Park. It was likely even worse than this, though. The lug nuts were so tight one of the stock alloy wheels shattered while he was driving home. The other three were cracked. The tire shop had to pay the local Ford dealer more than $2,000 to repair the damage and replace the turbine spoke alloy wheels.
Lord what is it with peoples inability to put lugnuts on right
Thats what happens when people are in a hurry and dont start them by hand and just put lug nut in the socket and drive them on with an impact gun.
Gotta love how lugnuts have gotten softer and softer as car technology increases.
FORD COUGH FORD
more like the studs can take more abuse, also more power tools nowadays
The problem is the stupid tin covers they've been putting on cheap lug nuts to make them appear to be genuine high quality solid chromed lug nuts. It started back in the muscle car era. I'd hope they stopped it but appears they just made them even cheaper. It's best to just order the real deal quality chromed lug nuts as soon as you buy the car,install them at the dealer/tire shop and skip the whole ordeal here.
Since you were able to remove the ones that the customer hadn’t mangled, with a regular impact wrench, do you think the customer did something to make those lock on the way they did, like he did some damage to them?
Was that blue stuff in the threads some kind of thread locker? ( at 8:21 inside the lug nut threads that's visible after you cut the caps off). It don't look like red loc-tite, because it's not red... but I'm wondering if there's another strong loc-tite that's blue in color? I've herd you need heat to break red loc-tite, but the red stuff is heat resistant, so you need a lot of heat to break it free.
Great vido Ray. I would like to suggest to you that the thing that destroys drill bits most often is heat that is caused by drillin too fast with too little pressure. Get a cheap 1/2 inch low speed air drill from northern tools. This will help you to keep low speed with high pressure and their only 40 bucks this week on sale. Good luck.
Ya, I would just stop drilling when adding the lube as well. If you are just spinning the bit in the hole it is just wearing it out. I drilled 48 5/16 holes in 3/16 stainless the other day with 2 cheap drill bits and an older corded 3/8 dewalt. I only needed the second bit because the one cutting edge broke off the first bit. Tons of pressure and about as slow as the drill would run.
@@--_DJ_-- That's the right technique aj. I was in aviation for decades and had to drill stainless, inconal, monel titanium, and anything else engineering could throw at us, and there is a way, a speed, a feed rate, a pressure and cutting fluid for every situation. It pays to use a keeyed chuck too on order to keep the drill bit from spinning when the pressure increases. This will decrease your chances of overheating the bit, or snapping it as a result of hangup.
Slow sloppy drilling for the win! Seen way too many people trying to friction weld drill bits to their workpiece hahah
suggestion, when using a cheaper bar and or that much force, always place a jackstand under the head of the wrench. This will keep it in-line with the fastener, and not bend down with your weight on the cheater bar. This might have helped prevent the special sockets from slipping.
the bad part it wasnt a cheater bar. it was the handle from a floor jack.we have that same guy where i work. 3 floor jacks without handles
@@dannybradford5551 I would rather get a cheater made from heavy pipe which won't bend if I'm standing on it. I like the other idea of using a hydraulic lift to raise the bar. I have a 24" breaker bar for use with 1/2" sockets. It does make a difference. My one impact air wrench has 750 ft. pd. of force so it works pretty well too.
I can't believe you didn't try taking these off with an impact. I have broken several breaker bars trying to take off axle nuts, but when I used an impact they popped right off. The impact will shock the nut loose, not wring it off. The same goes for exhaust bolts and nuts, easy to break with a ratchet, easy to get off with an impact (but soak them overnight with PB Blaster). One of the first lessons I learned working in a garage.
I've had lug nuts that tire places put on and I tried this same thing you are doing with the pipe. What I want to know is HOW DO THEY GET THEM THAT TIGHT?