First thing should be fixing the heavy bolt lift and a trigger spring kit. If you decide to replace the stock go with the mdt field stock when they come out with the axis inlet. For now get some dev 10110 and bed the action
I believe you can buy the “target accutrigger” spring from north land shooter supply for $7. If you want a cheap way to lighten the accutrigger’s pull weight even further than it can currently adjust.
Should have drilled a bunch of little hole in every direction before adding bedding. It will lock the bedding compound into the plastic stock. That’s how I do it with acraglass.
You can use a dremel cutting wheel to cut slits in the center block to allow flow and reinforcing each cavity. Use Devcon 10110 to help keep the weight down.
You should consider bedding that base. You already have the stuff to do it and there is no scope on yet. It would only take a few min and would help with accuracy.
I wound up with a Remington I have that had a cheap plastic stock I bought a bell and Carlson stock with the aluminum bedding block and skim bedded it that is the reason I still like wood gun stocks
Nice to know! Thanks for showing this! You reminded me of when my dad use to sand down wood stocks on his guns to free float the barrel when they didn't come free floating. I thought about buying a few of those savage and rugar rifles with the plastic stocks, and didn't know they flexed like that, but now thanks to you I know how to fix it if it does!
To a hollow forend you could adapt a light alluminum U shaped profile(Home Depot) before filling with resin(Next time). Would stiffen it quite with little weight. Depending on how stiff the stock is arround the action, might not need a pillar bedded in, just some bedding compund. or drill out a bit for a bushing before bedding
Great job. Are you going to do anything to fill the buttstock, like expanding foam, to get rid off the hollowness? I'd love to do something like this with my 110, but the Hogue stock is warped and don't think it's salvageable. I'm in the air between the Magpul and a Bell & Carlsons M40 stock. I'd love to grab a GRS Fenris, but they may as well be hens teeth at the moment. Can't wait to see what scope you picked up and how the bolt lift kit works!
Good video. I like my axis 2 and it seems to shoot well. I have a couple of picatiny rails and I’m not really happy with how tall it makes my optics. On the long action it’s difficult to find a optic that spans the gap without the rail and would limit the adjustment front to back with the optic so I guess the rail is the best option. I think you’re going to be happy with your build the extra weight should help with recoil and you can basically adjust your balance. Looking forward to more 👍👍
I've used rockite a lot and it can be brittle so I'm curious how it holds up to the shock of firing. Also we would mix it in plastic containers and it never really stuck to the container so I hope it works in the stock.
If you’d used the term “forced vibration”, i’d still have said no way. Speaking as a ballistics engineer with 40+ years experience, i can tell you that “Harmonics” aren’t a thing. What’s your next best explanation?
@@jeffsiewert1258 are you the ballistics author who has been on Hornady’s TH-cam channel? If so, you definitely know way more than me. How are harmonics not a thing? Wouldn’t you say a free floated barrel is more consistent? Therefore a stiffer fore end would aid to it being free floated?
Yep, it’s me. Free floated barrels shoot better because they allow barrel motion from the forced vibration to be more consistent. It’s not “harmonics”. Barrel motion from forced vibration is pretty small, maybe a couple of thousandths.. can the stock forearm move? I’d have to make some numbers..
First thing should be fixing the heavy bolt lift and a trigger spring kit. If you decide to replace the stock go with the mdt field stock when they come out with the axis inlet. For now get some dev 10110 and bed the action
Thanks for the tips
I believe you can buy the “target accutrigger” spring from north land shooter supply for $7. If you want a cheap way to lighten the accutrigger’s pull weight even further than it can currently adjust.
The gun shack also has them for $7 I’ve put them in all my savage rifles well worth the money makes the trigger smoother and lighter
Interesting, I didn’t know that. I’ll look into it.
@@hopefulballistics also a very thin skin coat of jb weld on that scope base to bed it on top of the action can work wonders.
Should have drilled a bunch of little hole in every direction before adding bedding. It will lock the bedding compound into the plastic stock. That’s how I do it with acraglass.
Probably right
You can use a dremel cutting wheel to cut slits in the center block to allow flow and reinforcing each cavity. Use Devcon 10110 to help keep the weight down.
Maybe I should try this in my Savage Axis... It should help with recoil as well. My Savage has way too much recoil for it being a 270 Win
Yeah it’s pretty simple and would only help with recoil.
Put a limbsaver pad on it and you will notice a world of difference!
This one definitely has my attention. Own a axis in 2506 rem it's a decent shooter for me but it's cool to see with a little tlc what it could be.
Thanks for watching
At least you made a good choice with 308. It's a good baseline with lots of commercial ammo and components.
That’s what I was thinking
I've never tried the Rocktite but have used JB Weld to stiffen a stock .
Did it work well?
Yes , it works well . I have even bedded actions with it .@@hopefulballistics
You should consider bedding that base. You already have the stuff to do it and there is no scope on yet. It would only take a few min and would help with accuracy.
Hmmmm. Yeah interesting
Im interested in the bolt lift kit cause the axis bolt lift is garbage
Yeah it’s not a smooth bolt lift.
So far, so good. Keep them coming
Thanks!
I wound up with a Remington I have that had a cheap plastic stock I bought a bell and Carlson stock with the aluminum bedding block and skim bedded it that is the reason I still like wood gun stocks
I can understand that
Nice to know! Thanks for showing this! You reminded me of when my dad use to sand down wood stocks on his guns to free float the barrel when they didn't come free floating. I thought about buying a few of those savage and rugar rifles with the plastic stocks, and didn't know they flexed like that, but now thanks to you I know how to fix it if it does!
Your welcome! Thank for watching.
What a fun project. I'm glad you're enjoying it. Good production and fun to watch. I'm digging your channel.
I’m definitely having fun. Thanks for watching.
To a hollow forend you could adapt a light alluminum U shaped profile(Home Depot) before filling with resin(Next time). Would stiffen it quite with little weight. Depending on how stiff the stock is arround the action, might not need a pillar bedded in, just some bedding compund. or drill out a bit for a bushing before bedding
Very interesting, thanks
Super cool!
Thanks!
Great job. Are you going to do anything to fill the buttstock, like expanding foam, to get rid off the hollowness? I'd love to do something like this with my 110, but the Hogue stock is warped and don't think it's salvageable. I'm in the air between the Magpul and a Bell & Carlsons M40 stock. I'd love to grab a GRS Fenris, but they may as well be hens teeth at the moment.
Can't wait to see what scope you picked up and how the bolt lift kit works!
Yeah I put packing peanuts in the hollow part of the stock, lol. Thanks!
Good video. I like my axis 2 and it seems to shoot well. I have a couple of picatiny rails and I’m not really happy with how tall it makes my optics. On the long action it’s difficult to find a optic that spans the gap without the rail and would limit the adjustment front to back with the optic so I guess the rail is the best option. I think you’re going to be happy with your build the extra weight should help with recoil and you can basically adjust your balance. Looking forward to more 👍👍
Thanks! I appreciate it
Another great video as normal.
Thanks Tom!
Tried the same, but when the receiver heats up rounds started climbing. I have 7mm - 08. Fixed the problem with the Boyds stock.
Great job on the stock!!!!!! Can’t on the bolt kit, have same issue on my savage 110 ultra light!!!
Thanks for watching!
Very interested in this project. Great video.
Thanks!
looking forward to your common sense approach to this project
Thanks for watching!
I've used rockite a lot and it can be brittle so I'm curious how it holds up to the shock of firing. Also we would mix it in plastic containers and it never really stuck to the container so I hope it works in the stock.
That’s interesting, I guess I’ll be finding out. 😂
Well its looking good for now...have fooled with two and never got good accuracy with either using factory loads. We all don't reload !
Thanks for watching! We will see if this one shoots.
The forearm isn’t in the load path for recoil. Please explain how adding material not in the load path makes it stiffer?
@@jeffsiewert1258 it’s all about harmonics. The forearm inconsistently touching the barrel would throw it off tremendously.
If you’d used the term “forced vibration”, i’d still have said no way. Speaking as a ballistics engineer with 40+ years experience, i can tell you that “Harmonics” aren’t a thing. What’s your next best explanation?
@@jeffsiewert1258 are you the ballistics author who has been on Hornady’s TH-cam channel? If so, you definitely know way more than me. How are harmonics not a thing? Wouldn’t you say a free floated barrel is more consistent? Therefore a stiffer fore end would aid to it being free floated?
Yep, it’s me. Free floated barrels shoot better because they allow barrel motion from the forced vibration to be more consistent. It’s not “harmonics”. Barrel motion from forced vibration is pretty small, maybe a couple of thousandths.. can the stock forearm move? I’d have to make some numbers..
@@jeffsiewert1258 I really appreciate the clarification, thank you!
Should of bought a Boyd's stock!
They’re not lightweight, right?
Did you weigh the stock before and after your modifications?
Yeah 6 1/2 before, 7 1/2 after.
What brand of rail did you get?
Talley
Is the factory stock pillar beded?
I know the rear pillar is steel, but it appears the front pillar is plastic. That is something I could do later as well.