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U250E Valve Body Sonnax Zip Kit
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ส.ค. 2024
- 2009 Toyota Camry Valve body was in real bad shape, installing the zip kit along with over-sized pressure regulator valve, also from Sonnax.
PATREON: / curmudgeontransmission
Supplier Links:
Superior: superiortransmission.com/
Transtar: www.transtar1.com/
WIT: www.wittrans.com/
Sonnax: www.sonnax.com/
Teckpak/Fitzall: www.teckpak-fitzall.com/
Transgo: transgo.com/
Precision of New Hampton: gopnh.com/
Atec Transtool: www.toolsource.com/atec-trans...
This video helped me adjust the booster that I marked incorrectly prior to removal for adjustment. Saved me big time. Thanks for all the work and showing us DIY.
Glad it helped!
Hoping a simple fluid and filter change will either help or confirm my diagnosis. Try a relearn to. But glad you're putting out this content for idiots like me. Last trans I built was a 4l60e 12 years ago.
Thanks for watching.
this is gold content here. love the videos.
Thanks, thanks for watching.
Hello, thanks for making this video..
I have a u151e in my 2004 camry that likes to bind up sometimes between 2-3 and sometimes loses throttle in 3-4... Im pretty sure its the valve body/solenoids...
I was going to try and have a shop install this Zip Kit and test/clean the solenoids, any idea on how many hours it would take to install assuming the valve body isnt too badly worn out?
I've read most of the shifting issues with this transmission are valve body/solenoid related, I already changed fluid & filter which helped a little bit but it still shifts weird sometimes :/
Probably 4 or so.
Could you pls kindly explain more on the settings of the pressure regulating valve. Also what symptom(s) did this vehicle you pulled the valve body from exhibit
Is the setting for the pressure regulator valve for the U250E transmission all the same. Noticed you installed it using the smaller groove facing each other like you said @ 48.38
Most are set in the middle. It is set at the factory and needs to be put back on the setting it was on. Moving the setting will change the base pressure. Going in will raise it , out will lower it.
Are all valves meant to move in and out or one or two can be immovable
They should all move.
what material is the bore cleaning brush, nylon? What cleaning solution should I use? I was considering using some simple green with a paintbrush in a big tuppleware container.
I prefer nylon. Sometimes brass.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Do you use all the parts in the zip kit even if a part doesn't need to be replaced? also, is it important to change the cover plate gasket or can I just use the original one?
@@robertbiddy5049 I put all of it in. The gasket gets pretty brittle. I would change it.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission What about the line pressure. Would changing it to a 4 or 5 from 3 make much of a difference or would it make it much harsher and faster, but less smooth? Trying to weigh the odds if there's more excess wear from a higher line pressure or if it shifting faster would lead to less wear. I can be hard on my cars from time to time.
@@robertbiddy5049 I never move it. I put it back where it was. I figure if you have problems with it where it was designed to be you need to address the root cause and not mask it boosting pressure.
Is this Valve body the same as a U150 and if different how so? Thanks
www.sonnax.com/parts/4171-remanufactured-valve-body
can you help me identify where my problem is coming from.
When the car is warm and I have driven it for some time it starts to make some clunking sound when going from P to R and from N to R and vice versa. Also when I turn of the car and start it again soon there is a very harsh shift from P to R with very strong kick. After this remaining only the sound. And it repeats every time I start the car again after I have driven it for some time.
I have not had this problem before. Did a quick search and did not come across anything yet. My first thought was valve body as they are common problem, however it only happening for the first engagement makes me question that. The clunking has me baffled. The F5A51 in Mitsubishi's had a problem like that clunk and it was the ring gear in the underdrive planet wearing out but this transmission the ring gear is not set up the same. The harsh first engagement is making me think you may have a keep alive memory problem with the computer or maybe a ground issue. First thing I would do is check all the battery connections and ground wires. Check and make sure after the vehicle is turned off for a while that the battery has at least 12.6 volts and when you crank it the voltage does not drop below 10 volts. Also check and make sure that you are not running AC voltage in the system. If you don't know how or have the meter to check that take it to an electrical shop and have them check that. If I come across anything I will get back to you, will check with some builders I know tomorrow and see if they have run into that problem.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Also this started happening after i drove on the highway and the car went in to limp mode. i went to some workshops here where i live but they are not competent enough with this model to help me. Otherwise the car shifts normally between all gears making this only When going to R and it not making it right after I start the car. Only when I had driven it for some time. Thank you very much for the help. Appreciate it.
Do you know what code was stored?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission before I had errors system too Lean and misfire and maf sensor but I fixed them. In the moment of the event no check engine was lit and as I know from the dealer no error codes were recorded. The dealer said they reset the gear software or something like this
Do you think it could be from the pressure regulating valve
Where can I get to buy the valve body parts pls?
WIT or Transtar, links are in the description.