Hi Morgan, thanks for the comment and feedback. Yes, pleased it's got a second chance. Lol, no chance on the sponsorship, I contacted them to ask and they said no deal! I bet if I was Colin Furze asking they would have been a bit more obliging lol. Cheers, Jon
Hi Max, thanks for the comment. It certainly is, it was used for inspecting engine casings and combustion chambers on large gas turbines in its first life. Cheers, Jon
Nice to save the old stuff Jon. As my old man said, everything wears out regardless of who makes it, and very few things stay pristine over the years. That came up as good as you could hope for. Someone can probably still use it, so it should sell well. Interesting. Cheers Rob
Hi Rob, thanks for the comment. Totally agree, but a bit like your screw starters, the old stuff will endure far longer (especially if well looked after) than anything made today regardless of country of origin or price point. I even think that the raw materials of 40+ years ago were far more pure and stable before we started recycling (not condemning recycling as we only have a finite supply but you know what I mean). Cheers, Jon
Hi Al, thanks for the comment. Yep, I really hope I can find it a new home where it will get a second chance. Such a shame to see stuff like this getting chucked out. Cheers, Jon
Hi Dave, thanks for the comment, I most certainly did, took a week for my hands to get back to looking remotely clean again lol. I really should wear nitrile gloves doing this sort of work, but I just can't get on with them! Cheers, Jon
Hi Tony, thanks for the comment. Yes, they certainly made stuff well in those days. Looked after properly (not like what I did), it would last another 50 years easily, can't imagine today's stuff doing 100 yrs service. Cheers, Jon
Great job Jon! I too wouldn't have been able to leave that in a skip! I have the 14 1/2" version of that. Yes 369 is the model number of it. Mine is the same, just a scaled down version. Mine is in its original box, complete with a 1 1/2" standard, about 3/4" in diameter. It's complete with .375" scribing knife, and a 8" long 1/8" dia scriber, approx with a fitting to attach to the beam piece. The box is a bit scruffy, and mine had quite a bit of surface rust on it when I got it but 2000 grit wet and dry with oil sorted it all out. Now it's well oiled and I keep a very oily rag in the box over the top of it and I've just gone out to the shed to look at it and it's still as good as the day I cleaned it up 2 years ago, actually I used it about 2 weeks ago to mark up the new cross slide lead screw nut I made. But that's another disaster story! ( my first piece of internal threading 1/2" x10 TPI left hand Acme could I have tried something more difficult for a first attempt at internal threading? Lol) oh and as for the swirly end mill marks no I don't think that's a Chesterman feature! You can clearly see on the upstand where the milling cutter has clattered it. God knows why the swirling was done to it!
Hi Samrodian, thanks for the comment and information. Interesting, I really have no idea on the swirl patterns then, could have been a bored employee on night shift at the said former keeper of this tool, stranger things have happened! In one of my previous employers (big aerospace) that had a paint shop, a guy drove into work for his night shift in a green car, and left in a blue one lol Nope, you couldn't have chosen a more difficult thread, 10 out of 10 for trying though, top marks. Cheers, Jon
That was great, I really enjoyed it. I couldn't bear to see a piece of precision engineering like that go in a skip either. Hopefully you can make a bit of money for your shop and someone will get a fantastic tool.
Hi Carl, thanks for the comment and feedback. Yes, it seemed criminal seeing this being thrown away, and even more criminal watching it rot away in my humidium. At least I caught it before it went beyond saving I suppose. Cheers, Jon
Hello Jon, Nice work... If you don't managed to sell it you could convert it to a bench camera stand... I have a Chesterman so it was interesting to see the inside... Take care. Paul,,
Hi Paul, thanks for the comment. That was always plan B, to re-purpose into other useful things if it was beyond saving or nobody wants it. Cheers, Jon
Good job on getting it usable Jon what a piece of engineering I wonder what that cost new I’ve never seen a height gauge like that just a great piece of old school engineering 👍👍👍👍👍
In 1964 a 40 inch Chestetman 414 height guage was £189 15 shillings if you want an idea. Inflation since then is 1650% so that makes €31, i85, i think I'll pass at that price.
@@chrisstephens6673 What makes that even more comical is the comparison to a modern fully hardened stainless steel height gauge with a very accurate digital reader head and carbide tipped scribe being commonly available for under £200 quid.
@@howardosborne8647 the power of modern production techniques, but at least the Chestetman one still works after all these years and the battery never goes flat, although that might be the case with owners pacemaker.😂
Excellent restoration. A nice tool, I appreciate this being too big for the shop, it would be too big for my small shop also. I hope this goes to a good new home. Dave.
Hi Dave, thanks for the comment and support of the channel, much appreciated. Just pleased I caught it in time, one more winter in my aquarium of a workshop and it would have been toast I think. Cheers, Jon
Hi Robert, thanks for the comment, a very Scottish name if I may say so (sure you have heard that thousands of times). Chesterman are quality units. Out of interest, does yours have the scroll pattern on the top face of the base? Cheers, Jon
@@jonsworkshop right now it's it's at the bottom of my toolbox but I'm not sure I don't think so but it's smaller unit than yours so I guess anything's possible. Just out of curiosity have you sold yours yet?
@@robertburns2415 Hi Robert, nope, not yet, not even managed to get it advertised yet. Need to get my backside in gear as its just getting in the way. Cheers, Jon
Great job Jon, I often buy old woodworking and metalworking tools on ebay to restore. I just think it's cool that they have history that someone owned and used it before me. Plus the fact you can get a good deal :) Dont think I would be able to use or afford this though, could you let us know when this is going on ebay just to watch,,,, pretty please! TFS, GB :)
Hi Graeme, thanks for the comment. Will do, although not done anything about it yet, too busy getting stuck into new projects. Will have to do it soon before the winter and damp return. Cheers, Jon
Fantastic job Jon ! 👍🏻 It looks as though you got the accuracy set pretty good to me ! But just out of interest what bit would you have to alter to calibrate it 100% if you had a perfect set up gear ? Regards Tony 👍🏻
Hi Tony, thanks for the comment. The same bits I moved around which are the two vernier scale plates fitted to the moving assembly, the holes are slotted allowing an element of independent adjustment. The only difference with a pukka calibration would be traceability back to known calibrated standards, and a proper AA grade granite surface table (also traceable back to known flatness standards). They would also calibrate it over its full range of measurement and not just at the lower end as I did to take into account bending/warping of the main scale. For a vernier it's all a bit academic as you are still relying on human judgement of which line is the closest, and even if you had 10 of the best international standards trained calibration bods, you would almost certainly have a range of different answers so splitting microns on flatness or slips really becomes academic. Hope this makes sense. To learn more, Google Gauge R & R and find some results for equipment using vernier scales. Maybe a topic for a future Tips video! Cheers, Jon
@@jonsworkshop Thanks Jon, yes that helps a lot. 👍🏻 I will have a google at Guage R and R ! Yes defo a topic for a future tips video ! 👍🏻 Thanks again Jon, take care. 😀
Hi Mike, thanks for the comment. I am running the Cormak ZX 7045 and a Harrison M300 on 3ph up to now. Really wish I had bought a rotary converter, the static is just not the right thing for a workshop, too many compromises. Cheers, Jon
@@jonsworkshop I think dad was looking at the M300 (new) in the 1980s. In the end we got a 2nd hand Colchester Student. I've had 6months nightmare over 3ph supply. Yes, I wasn't getting the transwave fixed ! I believe they don't provide full power, for one. 2, you have to tune the load with that 8 position switch. 3. the phases aren't perfectly balanced on voltage. I'm sure ours has an ammeter rather than a voltmeter - with the instructions to tune to the lowest current ! Many go for VFDs - 1 per motor - so we'd need 3 ! They're also too 'delicate' for my lathe as it's designed to be thrown into reverse on the fly and a VFD wouldn't like that ! So I've gone for a diesel genset. As for rotary converters there are those and there are rotary transformers - which people also call rotary converters - to confuse people ! The rotary transformers are a 3ph generator with a single phase motor winding - so it's a single phase motor in the same casing as the gen. The 'converter' version has a 3ph motor which is used to generate the other phase - or stabilise the phases - so if you're looking at those in the future, be sure how the think actually works before you buy !
@@jonsworkshop What I have in mind is a shop tour giving an overview of what you have - then video on each machine or piece of equipment giving demonstrations, pointing out special features, brilliant bits and bad bits ! And, I guess modifications too ! e.g. my lathe is 8 speed, 54-1200 geared head with a clutch. It has 'precision' power feed stops - which is a 'special feature' and an imperial threading gearbox with a few metric pitches which are in fact only approximate ! The one odd accessory is a taper turning attachment (broken !) My mill has more features on it than anyone else's ! LOL I've only discovered this over the last year. We'd not looked at mills prior to getting it so we had no clue we were getting such a fab machine ! (From Carlisle) The only feature I've seen on another that mine hasn't got are dual-position controls and I think there's one out there with powered gear changer for the spindle - it hasn't got that either ! It currently has an electrical fault. I guess the special feature of my welder is the fact I'll be swapping it back to 3 phase working ;) I estimate it's 70 years old !
That came up a treat Jon and good man for saving that from the skip! Congratulations on the Guinness sponsorship 😉. Cheers.
Hi Morgan, thanks for the comment and feedback. Yes, pleased it's got a second chance. Lol, no chance on the sponsorship, I contacted them to ask and they said no deal! I bet if I was Colin Furze asking they would have been a bit more obliging lol. Cheers, Jon
Well done Jon. That had plenty of life left in it. A real quality instrument, I'm glad you saved it. Best wishes, Dean in Oxfordshire.
Hi Dean, thanks for the comment. Yes, very glad I managed to save it before another winter in my humidium put it beyond rescue. Cheers, Jon
NICE ONE JON , I ENJOYED. REGARDS RICHARD.
Hi Richard, thanks for the comment and feedback, much appreciated. Cheers, Jon
Great restoration Jon, very usable once again👍 Whoever gives it a new home will need a very low marking out table or high ceiling 😀
Atb Carl
Hi Carl, thanks for the comment and feedback. Your right, it needs to go into a proper engineering shop where they make big stuff. Cheers, Jon
That came out great . Big bugger it is ! Cheers .
Hi Max, thanks for the comment. It certainly is, it was used for inspecting engine casings and combustion chambers on large gas turbines in its first life. Cheers, Jon
Nice to save the old stuff Jon. As my old man said, everything wears out regardless of who makes it, and very few things stay pristine over the years. That came up as good as you could hope for. Someone can probably still use it, so it should sell well. Interesting. Cheers Rob
Hi Rob, thanks for the comment. Totally agree, but a bit like your screw starters, the old stuff will endure far longer (especially if well looked after) than anything made today regardless of country of origin or price point. I even think that the raw materials of 40+ years ago were far more pure and stable before we started recycling (not condemning recycling as we only have a finite supply but you know what I mean). Cheers, Jon
Well done mate, great to see it revamped and hopefully I can be put back into use.
Al.
Hi Al, thanks for the comment. Yep, I really hope I can find it a new home where it will get a second chance. Such a shame to see stuff like this getting chucked out. Cheers, Jon
Great job Jon, I hope after a good clean up of your hands, that you poured yourself a well deserved Guinness. Regards from Australia.
Hi Dave, thanks for the comment, I most certainly did, took a week for my hands to get back to looking remotely clean again lol. I really should wear nitrile gloves doing this sort of work, but I just can't get on with them! Cheers, Jon
Nice Job Jon, as you say sometime you think it's too far gone but with some elbow grease and time it can be a Jem in the rough
Hi Terry, thanks for the comment. Yes, it was touch and go if it would be worth the effort but it spruced up not too bad in the end. Cheers, Jon
Nice work Jon it's amazing seeing the inside components. I'm sure it'll be very useful to someone. Tony
Hi Tony, thanks for the comment. Yes, they certainly made stuff well in those days. Looked after properly (not like what I did), it would last another 50 years easily, can't imagine today's stuff doing 100 yrs service. Cheers, Jon
Great job Jon! I too wouldn't have been able to leave that in a skip! I have the 14 1/2" version of that. Yes 369 is the model number of it. Mine is the same, just a scaled down version. Mine is in its original box, complete with a 1 1/2" standard, about 3/4" in diameter. It's complete with .375" scribing knife, and a 8" long 1/8" dia scriber, approx with a fitting to attach to the beam piece. The box is a bit scruffy, and mine had quite a bit of surface rust on it when I got it but 2000 grit wet and dry with oil sorted it all out. Now it's well oiled and I keep a very oily rag in the box over the top of it and I've just gone out to the shed to look at it and it's still as good as the day I cleaned it up 2 years ago, actually I used it about 2 weeks ago to mark up the new cross slide lead screw nut I made. But that's another disaster story! ( my first piece of internal threading 1/2" x10 TPI left hand Acme could I have tried something more difficult for a first attempt at internal threading? Lol) oh and as for the swirly end mill marks no I don't think that's a Chesterman feature! You can clearly see on the upstand where the milling cutter has clattered it. God knows why the swirling was done to it!
Hi Samrodian, thanks for the comment and information. Interesting, I really have no idea on the swirl patterns then, could have been a bored employee on night shift at the said former keeper of this tool, stranger things have happened! In one of my previous employers (big aerospace) that had a paint shop, a guy drove into work for his night shift in a green car, and left in a blue one lol Nope, you couldn't have chosen a more difficult thread, 10 out of 10 for trying though, top marks. Cheers, Jon
Hi nice guage thanks for sharing your cool restoration video.
Hi Tinker, thanks for the comment and feedback. Cheers, Jon
That was great, I really enjoyed it. I couldn't bear to see a piece of precision engineering like that go in a skip either. Hopefully you can make a bit of money for your shop and someone will get a fantastic tool.
Hi Carl, thanks for the comment and feedback. Yes, it seemed criminal seeing this being thrown away, and even more criminal watching it rot away in my humidium. At least I caught it before it went beyond saving I suppose. Cheers, Jon
Hello Jon,
Nice work... If you don't managed to sell it you could convert it to a bench camera stand... I have a Chesterman so it was interesting to see the inside...
Take care.
Paul,,
Hi Paul, thanks for the comment. That was always plan B, to re-purpose into other useful things if it was beyond saving or nobody wants it. Cheers, Jon
Good job on getting it usable Jon what a piece of engineering I wonder what that cost new I’ve never seen a height gauge like that just a great piece of old school engineering 👍👍👍👍👍
In 1964 a 40 inch Chestetman 414 height guage was £189 15 shillings if you want an idea. Inflation since then is 1650% so that makes €31, i85, i think I'll pass at that price.
@@chrisstephens6673 Hello stranger, it's yours for a song, what a bargain!
@@jonsworkshop well i would but no case or accessories!
Stranger, you know me so well!😆
@@chrisstephens6673 What makes that even more comical is the comparison to a modern fully hardened stainless steel height gauge with a very accurate digital reader head and carbide tipped scribe being commonly available for under £200 quid.
@@howardosborne8647 the power of modern production techniques, but at least the Chestetman one still works after all these years and the battery never goes flat, although that might be the case with owners pacemaker.😂
Great restoration, and that half nut mechanism is very neat.
Hi, thanks for the comment and feedback. Yes, I was very impressed with the build quality and design, no wonder they were expensive new! Cheers, Jon
Excellent restoration. A nice tool, I appreciate this being too big for the shop, it would be too big for my small shop also. I hope this goes to a good new home.
Dave.
Hi Dave, thanks for the comment and support of the channel, much appreciated. Just pleased I caught it in time, one more winter in my aquarium of a workshop and it would have been toast I think. Cheers, Jon
Nicely done well-thought-out. I have a Chesterman 14in I used it as a transfer gauge. It sure does make things a lot easier
Hi Robert, thanks for the comment, a very Scottish name if I may say so (sure you have heard that thousands of times). Chesterman are quality units. Out of interest, does yours have the scroll pattern on the top face of the base? Cheers, Jon
@@jonsworkshop right now it's it's at the bottom of my toolbox but I'm not sure I don't think so but it's smaller unit than yours so I guess anything's possible. Just out of curiosity have you sold yours yet?
@@robertburns2415 Hi Robert, nope, not yet, not even managed to get it advertised yet. Need to get my backside in gear as its just getting in the way. Cheers, Jon
Nice job, at least not in as bad a state as John Mill's engine :-)
Hi Pakrattuk, thanks for the comment. Yes, if it looked that bad I think I would have been re-purposing it into something else useful. Cheers, Jon
Brilliant.
Hi Paul, thanks for the comment and feedback. Cheers, Jon
Nice work Very interesting
Hi Kimber, thanks for the comment, much appreciated. Cheers, Jon
Great job Jon, I often buy old woodworking and metalworking tools on ebay to restore. I just think it's cool that they have history that someone owned and used it before me. Plus the fact you can get a good deal :) Dont think I would be able to use or afford this though, could you let us know when this is going on ebay just to watch,,,, pretty please! TFS, GB :)
Hi Graeme, thanks for the comment. Will do, although not done anything about it yet, too busy getting stuck into new projects. Will have to do it soon before the winter and damp return. Cheers, Jon
Just the right sort of size for model engineering tasks.😂😂
Hi Howard, lol, for 1/4 scale maybe! Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Jon
Nice job on the restoration. These were also rebranded Brown and Sharpe for the USA market. Did you end up selling it?
Fantastic job Jon ! 👍🏻
It looks as though you got the accuracy set pretty good to me ! But just out of interest what bit would you have to alter to calibrate it 100% if you had a perfect set up gear ? Regards Tony 👍🏻
Hi Tony, thanks for the comment. The same bits I moved around which are the two vernier scale plates fitted to the moving assembly, the holes are slotted allowing an element of independent adjustment. The only difference with a pukka calibration would be traceability back to known calibrated standards, and a proper AA grade granite surface table (also traceable back to known flatness standards). They would also calibrate it over its full range of measurement and not just at the lower end as I did to take into account bending/warping of the main scale. For a vernier it's all a bit academic as you are still relying on human judgement of which line is the closest, and even if you had 10 of the best international standards trained calibration bods, you would almost certainly have a range of different answers so splitting microns on flatness or slips really becomes academic. Hope this makes sense. To learn more, Google Gauge R & R and find some results for equipment using vernier scales. Maybe a topic for a future Tips video! Cheers, Jon
@@jonsworkshop Thanks Jon, yes that helps a lot. 👍🏻
I will have a google at Guage R and R !
Yes defo a topic for a future tips video ! 👍🏻
Thanks again Jon, take care. 😀
27:15 Yeah - that's the Transwave box of capacitors we have - recently disconnected and thrown into a corner !
So what have you on 3 phase ?
Hi Mike, thanks for the comment. I am running the Cormak ZX 7045 and a Harrison M300 on 3ph up to now. Really wish I had bought a rotary converter, the static is just not the right thing for a workshop, too many compromises. Cheers, Jon
@@jonsworkshop I think dad was looking at the M300 (new) in the 1980s. In the end we got a 2nd hand Colchester Student.
I've had 6months nightmare over 3ph supply. Yes, I wasn't getting the transwave fixed ! I believe they don't provide full power, for one. 2, you have to tune the load with that 8 position switch. 3. the phases aren't perfectly balanced on voltage. I'm sure ours has an ammeter rather than a voltmeter - with the instructions to tune to the lowest current !
Many go for VFDs - 1 per motor - so we'd need 3 ! They're also too 'delicate' for my lathe as it's designed to be thrown into reverse on the fly and a VFD wouldn't like that ! So I've gone for a diesel genset.
As for rotary converters there are those and there are rotary transformers - which people also call rotary converters - to confuse people ! The rotary transformers are a 3ph generator with a single phase motor winding - so it's a single phase motor in the same casing as the gen.
The 'converter' version has a 3ph motor which is used to generate the other phase - or stabilise the phases - so if you're looking at those in the future, be sure how the think actually works before you buy !
@@jonsworkshop "Cormak ZX 7045" is one I've not heard of before !
have you done a shop tour vid now you're set up ?
Hi Mike, thanks for the comment. Not as such but I often walk round during my Blether videos discussing upcoming projects etc. Cheers, Jon
@@jonsworkshop What I have in mind is a shop tour giving an overview of what you have - then video on each machine or piece of equipment giving demonstrations, pointing out special features, brilliant bits and bad bits ! And, I guess modifications too !
e.g. my lathe is 8 speed, 54-1200 geared head with a clutch. It has 'precision' power feed stops - which is a 'special feature' and an imperial threading gearbox with a few metric pitches which are in fact only approximate ! The one odd accessory is a taper turning attachment (broken !)
My mill has more features on it than anyone else's ! LOL I've only discovered this over the last year. We'd not looked at mills prior to getting it so we had no clue we were getting such a fab machine ! (From Carlisle) The only feature I've seen on another that mine hasn't got are dual-position controls and I think there's one out there with powered gear changer for the spindle - it hasn't got that either ! It currently has an electrical fault.
I guess the special feature of my welder is the fact I'll be swapping it back to 3 phase working ;) I estimate it's 70 years old !